I do too! 10 years ago I used a PID temperature controller with relay output, and that thing did the job so well until recently (reptile heater, less than 1 amp load). Then I learned about SSRs and incorporated one of those, but I had to be concerned with SSR heating and such (even though at less than 1 amp the SSR hardly got warm it turns out...)
@@6strings735 hey can I use SSR for power tools, I have an electric hoist I want to control it using rf, turns out I power relays are not a big thing in my area an I use SSR for this, the hoist consumes 1800w peak, is 220v 10A SSR good enough? Thanks in advance
@@shantanuyadav6135 I assume the hoist is ON only at limited times, so probably yes. But 10A is too small. Use a 40A SSR and a heat sink. A 10A rating means 10A max, but if the relay is one of the inexpensive Chinese models, then it means 10A fries it. So always be safe and get an SSR rated for far more current than you will use. And remember that electric motors can have a high inrush current even if it is for a split second.
The zero crossing is an important feature worth to mention. It is preventing high freqency noise on the power line. There are different applications for the different types of ssr.
I would say the DIY won, because at least then you could say what the real values are. Component claimed to take 40A, when it can only take 16A is pretty criminal.
Not sure why they would say 40A unless it is a momentary peak, however, other than that there is not a lot that draws more than 15 amps for US homes as that is the circuit breaker rating for most plugs in American homes. My guess is that is the reason for 16A continuous load on these things, it gives them an amp to spare, tight but your breaker will pop before you overload this.
@@wildbill4476 But . . . in the UK, it is not uncommon to find high loads (e.g. showers and water heaters to be 14.5kW). Wiring standards here allow Max House draw up to 45Amps, but ring mains are 24/32Amps. It would be a worry using this in any of those circuits. Set fire to your house with one of these, and your house insurance probably will fight the claim!
Nice, there's a constant current generator for the LED inside the SSR, that's why it can handle 3 to 32 V DC input. It was for me a mystery before. Thank you for the explanation and the schematic you shared.
0:42 Love your videos dude. ...but latching relays are thing. There are ones you pulse power once to turn on, and apply a reverse polarity pulse to turn off. There are also ones that have 2 coil terminals (4 pins on the coil [aka the switching signal side]). One coil is for latching on, the other is for latching off. IIRC Panasonic even makes a line that are "Small Signal" triggered with less than 15mA at 5 volts to power the coil. These should work with almost any MCU output. Digikey carries some of them I think.... anyways I was just looking into those a few days ago but still haven't found a small signal relay for 3 terminals and a double pole that will suit my project. -Jake
@@robertkat yeah, right, and that's why electromechanical relays are still widely used as alarm/status outputs and electromechanical contactors still widely used in safety circuits.
I agree wholeheartedly with your DIY or BUY verdict on this one. Mains electricity isn't something to fool around with unless you already know what you're doing and are keeping your hands well away from the danger zones.
0:42 A latching relay (also called "impulse", "keep", or "stay" relays) maintains either contact position indefinitely without power applied to the coil.
GreaScott! I am very happy to learn you torn apart that Fotek "Made in China" SSR. And I am happy you made this video about what you discovered. I had been planning to switch two electrical appliances with that SSR: a 1500W space heater (12.5A) and a 900W hotplate (7.5A), in order to power a smoker I built. However the total amperage is 20A. Therefore, I cannot power both devices off one SSR. I must either let the hotplate run continuously, and only modulate the space heater's power, or buy two SSR's, one for each device. By making this video, you proably saved me from burning up the "Made in China" SSR in my homebuilt smoker. Thank you! :)
For safety, it is wise to use just 24V for experimenting (2:14), but you should further that safety concern by using an isolation transformer, and not an auto-transformer. The unintentional swapping of the brown (line) and blue (neutral) wire will present the mains voltage directly to the load, and that can be deadly.
SSR's tend to fail in the shorted position. This means that really bad things can happen when they fail. It would be nice to see a supervisory circuit that watches the input and output of an SSR which will trip a mechanical breaker if it doesn't work right. I was thinking about integrating it with a GFCI and deliberately shorting the GFCI hot wire to earth ground to trip it. A circuit like that would make a great video. I don't think you can buy them. I have looked.
Hi, I work a lot with furnaces and have used these SSRs a lot.. Nice video and good breakdown. All good info.. Just to add, SSRs are usually optically isolated, ie an Led triggers switching. They come in both dc and ac activated(all it does is activate an LED which triggers ON/OFF), although the output is just a switch. I prefer AC control since wiring is easier. Also, as u said, these cannot be used for phase control (instead use an SCR or thyristor controller).. SCR can do variable voltage from 0_220v, whereas SSR can only do ON/OFF. SSR itself is silent, but most controllers used for such purposes still use mechanical electromagnetic relay and switching clicks can still be heard(not from SSR). SSR is cheaper in India (1$-2$) than raw material and ofcourse safety reasons u mentioned. Higher currents usually dont cost more and upto 100 Amps is 2$. Next project SCR??
Ohhh yes, would take his some time... actually, it would just be easier buying one, he should just do a seperate video on how to build a 3D Printer..... or a quadcopter **ahem**
I just purchase two of those solid state relays a few weeks ago. State Side seller only took a week to receive them. Happy to hear the truth about the Triac's. Assuming mine are the same maker ( Look Identical ) I should be ok with the 8-9 Amps I need to switch. Yep, the Chinesium Rating system is a bit different then ours, eaa. When they Rate something 30Amps that mean it starts smoking at 20 and does not burst into flames until 30Amps ! LOL
You all probably dont give a shit but does someone know a method to get back into an instagram account?? I was stupid forgot my account password. I would appreciate any assistance you can give me!
@Hector Tobias Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site thru google and Im trying it out now. Seems to take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I'm speachless every time :) ...If I watched your videos when I was in highschool ..i would actually like electronics ....you make it simple :) ....thank you for Your videos
I worked for a power supply company for over 30 years, we used to routinely build our own SSR's. They worked fine but if you a switching a highly inductive load you had to be careful to supply enough current to switch the triac or dual SCR on so current flowed both ways. You don't want to have it only conduct one way and deliver Dc to an AC device.
I thought he is talking about headphone amplifiers or pre-amps. These amplifiers are usually featured with low power and a very wide frequency band. I built one with AD812 and CSR8645 in the differential amplifier config. It worked but it was not as good as expected. Analog circuits are often difficult to tune.
Mr great Scott, at the end where you were able to power the bulb through the heatsink, you should know that there are special electrical isolating heatsink pads. Although you probably already know this but I said it just in case.
Yes, I am aware of that. I showed this example to demonstrate how dangerous a diy solid state relay can be if you don't know what you are doing. But thanks for the information anyway.
I didnt know that was a "real" brand...They normally cost about $3. Do you know where you can get the real thing? In the US, I see Newegg still selling that for $5.99 and I cant believe they would sell counterfeit. I want to use a couple of them to turn on and off some appliances with home automation, and some of that Chinesium stuff makes me nervous...
I'm not so sure about that anymore... There's an article about "Fotek" SSRs with a fake UL mark (www.ul.com/newsroom/publicnotices/ul-warns-of-solid-state-relay-with-counterfeit-ul-recognition-mark-release-13pn-52/), but Scott's matches the image of the "real deal". Other people have reported that Fotek's SSRs are just *that* underspec'd and you should be okay with halving their current rating. Maybe Fotek just makes very cheap 3$ SSRs after all.
I can not wait till the day that I understand everything you are saying. I'm bingeing on electronics videos. I am building a terrarium and I have my ideas and desired results but I don't know what to expect really. My main goal is to build an actual living world from scratch. I want to see if I can grow land masses. I know it's stupid but inoperable a terrarium to the size where 4 grown adults can step into and seeing that the atmosphere inside combined with frequencies and other sciencey stuff might help cure cancer.
Safety warnings + light bulb powered via the heatsink: comedy gold. DIY or BUY: LED TV ambient lighting. You already did the DIY, so I guess I'm wondering what you think of retail systems.
Very interesting video, all these years later. I wish I had seen this some years ago! I have bought several of those Fotek solid state 'relays' and have had about 50% failure rate. They sell AC and DC coil versions but it seems their current ratings are unrealistically high. I used them with mains switching, to power water heaters [8-16A AC at 110-220V AC]. So far, the DC coil versions have been more reliable. I can power them with surplus laptop power supplies but this makes the job more ugly and more expensive! Danke schön!
I agree with the buy option when connecting to mains voltage. I would also question the cheap knock-offs, too. Companies like SSAC and OPTO have decades of experience producing these types of devices, and they're not that expensive when compared to burning down your house.
for ambient light take 2 reading by switching on/off the transmitter leds respectively by connecting to microcontroller output pin and do thresholding on the difference of these two readings if you want digital output
Zero crossing switch is actually a good thing for a relay. It reduces the electrical noise generated by the change of state. Phase control, on the other hand is more of a special case usage, and closer to the operation of a dimmer circuit. I could easily see the front end being driven by a mosfet, to allow very low level threshold voltage, or a OpAmp to have some hysteresis, which would be useful in temperature control.
And it is better to use some smaller board format like Arduino pro mini in finished project, a they are soooo cheap to have some in drawer as spare part.
Hello great scott, I really appreciate your channel and videos. I just want to say that your new video format diy or buy is a really nice idea and videos are useful. Keep going like that ;)
I personally would much rather trust my own DIY designs over some of the dubious products out of China. I can take much more care in quality control with my own work than I can with a black box full of epoxy resin.
Some triacs are isolated from the heatsink and hard setting thermal epoxy can also be used, giving greater isolation along with thermal silicone pads. The down side to triacs is they fail in the on position which is bad news when using heavy current. Heat dissipation can also be a big negative, especially in very hot conditions.
Solid state relays not meant to with stand high dc voltages. If it burns it closes the connection. If True isolation is needed real relay or contactors should be used.
I have to agree with you on that thought. When I first heard of the optical isolator, it came in the form of the Darlington transistor. The Base was the trigger. Specifications were high speed switching in the microwave range. I have never used solid state relays til now. I need more information before I start on my project which will turn on a slave fan to aid in the cooling of the air conditioner unit.
As always, great information. I haven't read all the comments, but I am sure there are people telling you what you could do better. Or why aliens make everything you say null and void. But my suggestion is (I hope) less controversial. Suggestion: Buy a new yellow highlighter. That one is pretty much used up.
Thanks again for this interesting episode. So as buying looks the better choice this time, don't forget that the relay can only handle 16amps instead of 40, otherwise you might really need that extra 'safety' lol
i used to replace every 2 months all busted solid state relays at the factory where i employed, and that brand was i exactly using and wondering for long time why that 40amps can't be last in every single 25amps heater, so now this will be helpfull, u revealed this chinesse tricks😅😅
Very interesting video. I was thinking of making me a kind of soft start for a 2 kW motor (to be applied to the Parkside bench saw that will be on sale from next Thursday) and I had seen this SSR but apparently it does not matter to me zero crossing circuit. The greater problem is how to program an arduino for this (maybe an arduino nano is enough but i'm not sure) For sale I've seen soft start circuits with prices over 100 euros: too expensive! Regarding the danger of the DiY circuits, you must close it all in a plastic container and apply an insulation kit on the heatsink.
Hi, We have a 3 speed stand fan that I'd like to convert to remote control. The simple fix is just to leave it switched on and then add a relay into the 240v mains supply. What would be good is to see how the 3 different speed buttons work and to add remote functionality. A micro controller might be the easiest way to handle the remove control, but it might be interesting to see if it an be achieved with standard components. Either way would make an interesting project. Thanks for today's video, another quality video.
I really love this series. As an electronic enthusiast by myself I ask myself frequently if I should buy simple stuff or diy it. Your videos are really a good at showing different aspects and really help me to make decisions. Thanks for that.
If you see constant running current through coil on relay as a problem, then pick a mechanical latching relay.. also there are 2 types of solid state relays.. the one you're using does in fact have a triact, but there is a fet version (for dc explicitly) available from china as well..
Nice video greatscott... It is very helpful for me. 1.Please make the video on double layer pcb with soldering mask DLY project. 2. How to choose gsm module for project and what is the difference between different gsm module. Thank you.
Love your videos Scott! Actually this is the first comment I make on your channel. By the way, the cheap solid state relay you mentioned at the start of the video is from TAIWAN, not China.
Nuclear Reactor: DIY or BUY?
DIY!
panulli4 WTF???
DIY lets go for it...Nuclear almost free energy!
DIY of course. It's cheaper.
First: Buy plutonium or steal it from the Libyan nationalists
I actually like that satisfying clicky sound of a relay ^^
I do too! 10 years ago I used a PID temperature controller with relay output, and that thing did the job so well until recently (reptile heater, less than 1 amp load). Then I learned about SSRs and incorporated one of those, but I had to be concerned with SSR heating and such (even though at less than 1 amp the SSR hardly got warm it turns out...)
@@6strings735 hey can I use SSR for power tools, I have an electric hoist I want to control it using rf, turns out I power relays are not a big thing in my area an I use SSR for this, the hoist consumes 1800w peak, is 220v 10A SSR good enough? Thanks in advance
@@shantanuyadav6135 I assume the hoist is ON only at limited times, so probably yes. But 10A is too small. Use a 40A SSR and a heat sink. A 10A rating means 10A max, but if the relay is one of the inexpensive Chinese models, then it means 10A fries it. So always be safe and get an SSR rated for far more current than you will use. And remember that electric motors can have a high inrush current even if it is for a split second.
The zero crossing is an important feature worth to mention. It is preventing high freqency noise on the power line. There are different applications for the different types of ssr.
I don't think your heatsink was big enough
It's fine, just needs a powerfull fan added.
lol
Thanks for the tip. I just melted an SCR because I used it without heatsink.
He should try using a nuclear reactor cooler, just in case.
yeah very small heatsink .... car radiator best one
I would say the DIY won, because at least then you could say what the real values are. Component claimed to take 40A, when it can only take 16A is pretty criminal.
Not sure why they would say 40A unless it is a momentary peak, however, other than that there is not a lot that draws more than 15 amps for US homes as that is the circuit breaker rating for most plugs in American homes. My guess is that is the reason for 16A continuous load on these things, it gives them an amp to spare, tight but your breaker will pop before you overload this.
@@wildbill4476 16A @ 250V is 4kW and that's what German standards rate the most common plug here in Europe at (Schuko plug).
Yeah, he just had to say it so all the non electrical engineers won't try to kill themself.
pretty sure the reason it's only 16a is because it's a cheapo clone of a real, much more expensive product
@@wildbill4476 But . . . in the UK, it is not uncommon to find high loads (e.g. showers and water heaters to be 14.5kW). Wiring standards here allow Max House draw up to 45Amps, but ring mains are 24/32Amps. It would be a worry using this in any of those circuits. Set fire to your house with one of these, and your house insurance probably will fight the claim!
This is a great series. DIY or Buy is something that crosses all our minds all the time. Thankyou for doing this. I'll watch every one you make.
A big advantage a mechanical relay has is the N/O & N/C option and the 2,3 and 4 poles.
These options in the SSR makes it very expensive.
This is the best video of SSR I've ever seen. Congratulations.
Nice, there's a constant current generator for the LED inside the SSR, that's why it can handle 3 to 32 V DC input. It was for me a mystery before. Thank you for the explanation and the schematic you shared.
0:42 Love your videos dude. ...but latching relays are thing. There are ones you pulse power once to turn on, and apply a reverse polarity pulse to turn off. There are also ones that have 2 coil terminals (4 pins on the coil [aka the switching signal side]). One coil is for latching on, the other is for latching off. IIRC Panasonic even makes a line that are "Small Signal" triggered with less than 15mA at 5 volts to power the coil. These should work with almost any MCU output.
Digikey carries some of them I think.... anyways I was just looking into those a few days ago but still haven't found a small signal relay for 3 terminals and a double pole that will suit my project.
-Jake
Mechanical relays are dead, solid state rules, dont make one, stupid! $20 gets you a 30 amp one.
My thoughts exactly...
@@robertkat yeah, right, and that's why electromechanical relays are still widely used as alarm/status outputs and electromechanical contactors still widely used in safety circuits.
A German guy reverse engineering Chinese technology. It's about time for payback...
I would like to add a point ! "A european guy reverse engineering chinese product and find european parts"
Eyou
Yeah, Like American Rockets carrying satellites are actually Nazi German Missile V2.
Fotek SSR is good brand of taiwan. Not china
@@VIETSUNRISE And the one he disassembled is the fake one. Never buy the products at lower price from the Ebay ,most of them are fake.
I agree wholeheartedly with your DIY or BUY verdict on this one. Mains electricity isn't something to fool around with unless you already know what you're doing and are keeping your hands well away from the danger zones.
Thank god people aren't always doing that and humanity moves forward. Yes some of us even die
0:42 A latching relay (also called "impulse", "keep", or "stay" relays) maintains either contact position indefinitely without power applied to the coil.
Ordered a ssr through Amazon and had it in a couple days for $13. Ill buy these every time
Yeees, my next projet. Thanks
Te queremos en Argentina man, saludos.
Proyectos LED projet?
Hace un video de esto Gastón!!
Projectos... so you are going to ignore EVERYTHING he said.
Proyectos LED
hola amigo
GreaScott!
I am very happy to learn you torn apart that Fotek "Made in China"
SSR. And I am happy you made this video about what you discovered.
I had been planning to switch two electrical appliances
with that SSR: a 1500W space heater (12.5A) and a 900W hotplate (7.5A),
in order to power a smoker I built. However the total amperage
is 20A. Therefore, I cannot power both devices off one SSR.
I must either let the hotplate run continuously, and only modulate
the space heater's power, or buy two SSR's, one for each device.
By making this video, you proably saved me from burning up the
"Made in China" SSR in my homebuilt smoker. Thank you! :)
I really like the DIY or buy episodes. Good to stay creative!
For safety, it is wise to use just 24V for experimenting (2:14), but you should further that safety concern by using an isolation transformer, and not an auto-transformer. The unintentional swapping of the brown (line) and blue (neutral) wire will present the mains voltage directly to the load, and that can be deadly.
Li-Po Battery Balance Charger DIY or BUY
Wow thats gonna be awesome.
I could use one of these
I've just found out this channel and I'm sure it's one of the best channels related to electronics. Thank you for sharing!
"Reverse Engineering Buzzkiller" - about fell out of my chair laughing! So true.
You do such a nice job producing these videos. Well done and thank you!
Very clear explanation..
Your German accent makes the video sounds more technical.. Good job
SSR's tend to fail in the shorted position. This means that really bad things can happen when they fail. It would be nice to see a supervisory circuit that watches the input and output of an SSR which will trip a mechanical breaker if it doesn't work right. I was thinking about integrating it with a GFCI and deliberately shorting the GFCI hot wire to earth ground to trip it.
A circuit like that would make a great video. I don't think you can buy them. I have looked.
Hi, I work a lot with furnaces and have used these SSRs a lot.. Nice video and good breakdown. All good info.. Just to add, SSRs are usually optically isolated, ie an Led triggers switching. They come in both dc and ac activated(all it does is activate an LED which triggers ON/OFF), although the output is just a switch. I prefer AC control since wiring is easier. Also, as u said, these cannot be used for phase control (instead use an SCR or thyristor controller).. SCR can do variable voltage from 0_220v, whereas SSR can only do ON/OFF. SSR itself is silent, but most controllers used for such purposes still use mechanical electromagnetic relay and switching clicks can still be heard(not from SSR). SSR is cheaper in India (1$-2$) than raw material and ofcourse safety reasons u mentioned. Higher currents usually dont cost more and upto 100 Amps is 2$. Next project SCR??
DIY or Buy: 3D Printer would be awesome.
Ohhh yes, would take his some time... actually, it would just be easier buying one, he should just do a seperate video on how to build a 3D Printer..... or a quadcopter **ahem**
Building one yourself is definitely more rewarding even so It took me about 5 me about 5 month or so
Buy an anycubic i3 mega you freak. Good printing quality and I just got a firmware update and literally it now prints st 0.05mm or 50 microns
I just purchase two of those solid state relays a few weeks ago. State Side seller only took a week to receive them. Happy to hear the truth about the Triac's. Assuming mine are the same maker ( Look Identical ) I should be ok with the 8-9 Amps I need to switch. Yep, the Chinesium Rating system is a bit different then ours, eaa. When they Rate something 30Amps that mean it starts smoking at 20 and does not burst into flames until 30Amps ! LOL
This series is a really good idea, keep it up !
16A with 40A sticker?! Perfect!
Good conclusion!
You all probably dont give a shit but does someone know a method to get back into an instagram account??
I was stupid forgot my account password. I would appreciate any assistance you can give me!
@Jacob Javion instablaster :)
@Hector Tobias Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site thru google and Im trying it out now.
Seems to take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Hector Tobias It worked and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much, you saved my account :D
@Jacob Javion happy to help :)
there is another advantage of DIY that is the chance of additioning several NO and NC output cintacts, such as the standard electromechanical relays
I would love to see a similar Video for the SSR DD (DC Version)
I'm speachless every time :) ...If I watched your videos when I was in highschool ..i would actually like electronics ....you make it simple :) ....thank you for Your videos
I'd like to see a DIY or buy for a AC -> DC (e.g. 220 v AC to 5 v DC)
I worked for a power supply company for over 30 years, we used to routinely build our own SSR's. They worked fine but if you a switching a highly inductive load you had to be careful to supply enough current to switch the triac or dual SCR on so current flowed both ways. You don't want to have it only conduct one way and deliver Dc to an AC device.
Diy or buy: portable hifi (hi-end) audio player! Thanks!
Like between a transistor, tube and modern radio/audio system
Great suggestion! You can save a lot buying DAC and used amplifiers on eBay
My DIY has 2x30w and it only costed me $40, everything is new except the speakers
I thought he is talking about headphone amplifiers or pre-amps. These amplifiers are usually featured with low power and a very wide frequency band. I built one with AD812 and CSR8645 in the differential amplifier config. It worked but it was not as good as expected. Analog circuits are often difficult to tune.
wzd leo like Astell&Kern)))
Mr great Scott, at the end where you were able to power the bulb through the heatsink, you should know that there are special electrical isolating heatsink pads. Although you probably already know this but I said it just in case.
Yes, I am aware of that. I showed this example to demonstrate how dangerous a diy solid state relay can be if you don't know what you are doing. But thanks for the information anyway.
You got a counterfeit Fotek there. A real one is pretty expensive.
I didnt know that was a "real" brand...They normally cost about $3. Do you know where you can get the real thing? In the US, I see Newegg still selling that for $5.99 and I cant believe they would sell counterfeit. I want to use a couple of them to turn on and off some appliances with home automation, and some of that Chinesium stuff makes me nervous...
I'm not so sure about that anymore... There's an article about "Fotek" SSRs with a fake UL mark (www.ul.com/newsroom/publicnotices/ul-warns-of-solid-state-relay-with-counterfeit-ul-recognition-mark-release-13pn-52/), but Scott's matches the image of the "real deal". Other people have reported that Fotek's SSRs are just *that* underspec'd and you should be okay with halving their current rating. Maybe Fotek just makes very cheap 3$ SSRs after all.
It's a fake. Look closely at the beveled corner on the sticker. On a real one, that corner is beveled in the plastic as well.
Correct. Here's a good comparison photo: forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=362347.msg2499069#msg2499069
thats probably why it didnt have a 40 amp Triac :-)
Nice and good example of the problems with DIY and those components. Like live AC on the cooling fan! Good video!
01:01
SSR: MADE IN TAIWAN
GreatScott: Buy from CHINA.
CHINA: GreatScott!!
And look below the shipping method ... "Item location : China"
My favorite day because of these videos. Keep up the fantastic work
Like your writing style.
There's no reason to dislike your video, gracias
Function Generator DIY Or Buy
Charged Electronic Concepts an LC circuit might work for this
w 8038 and other w arduino nano
Charged Electronic Concepts 1
Charged Electronic Concepts Make with LM741 and NE555 Texas instruments items signal generator, square saw and sine wave form getting from circuit.
Dildo DIY or buy?
I can not wait till the day that I understand everything you are saying. I'm bingeing on electronics videos. I am building a terrarium and I have my ideas and desired results but I don't know what to expect really. My main goal is to build an actual living world from scratch. I want to see if I can grow land masses. I know it's stupid but inoperable a terrarium to the size where 4 grown adults can step into and seeing that the atmosphere inside combined with frequencies and other sciencey stuff might help cure cancer.
8:27 I always thought I sucked at soldering in those brown cheap perfboards, now at least I know I'm not the only one :)
Safety warnings + light bulb powered via the heatsink: comedy gold.
DIY or BUY: LED TV ambient lighting. You already did the DIY, so I guess I'm wondering what you think of retail systems.
Diy or buy Variable bench Power Supply
Very beautiful handwriting and graphics. Excellent presentation
Nice explanations sir....👏
Thank you
A beautiful example of determination. I love it!
DIY or BUY reflow oven ?
DIY. "Learning" controllers. MUCH better that purchased.
God knows how impatiently i wait for your videos...
I think diy is better than commercial
No, no... remember what is the most important - safety first
Sure! The chinese one is safer than your work. Lol!
I suggest you look at a homemade soldering station vs a bought one.I'm talking about the homemade versions with the 24v JBC tips
i lost the remote control from my tv, can we build it DIY
Studio crok
Yes u can!
My first thought when I saw the heat sink was "dude, that heat sink is live". Luckily you mentioned in the end ;)
i think im getting the hang of this series. the answer is "buy"
Well, you never know....
so next time will be "diy" then, i'm guessing =P
Very interesting video, all these years later. I wish I had seen this some years ago!
I have bought several of those Fotek solid state 'relays' and have had about 50% failure rate. They sell AC and DC coil versions but it seems their current ratings are unrealistically high. I used them with mains switching, to power water heaters [8-16A AC at 110-220V AC]. So far, the DC coil versions have been more reliable. I can power them with surplus laptop power supplies but this makes the job more ugly and more expensive!
Danke schön!
Quite a good video. I appreciated the concise explanation of the circuit theory, and seeing the internals of the bought SSR. Thanks.
Hmm, I didn't quite expect the conclusion to be "if its scary, throw money at it.", but your mains is quite a bit deadlier than mine so I get it.
I agree with the buy option when connecting to mains voltage. I would also question the cheap knock-offs, too. Companies like SSAC and OPTO have decades of experience producing these types of devices, and they're not that expensive when compared to burning down your house.
USB SOLDERING IRON DIY OR BUY
GreattScott! Plz try this for us
HOW TO DO?!? I don't think that's even possible.
Soldering station , I think u wanna say ?
Buy
No *DO* and no *BUY* ! Usb soldering irons will just ruin you computer and other usb devices. It has huge power hunger.
Neither. They take forever to heat up and aren't worth it. You're better off using a lighter and a paperclip to solder.
Great explanation thanks! As a plus, I learned how to easily cut a predrilled pcb with a cutter!
Diy or buy .. line sensor for robots !
DIY, no need for an episode on this one.
True.. but what about coloured lines? And the Ambient light noise
for ambient light take 2 reading by switching on/off the transmitter leds respectively by connecting to microcontroller output pin and do thresholding on the difference of these two readings if you want digital output
Zero crossing switch is actually a good thing for a relay. It reduces the electrical noise generated by the change of state. Phase control, on the other hand is more of a special case usage, and closer to the operation of a dimmer circuit. I could easily see the front end being driven by a mosfet, to allow very low level threshold voltage, or a OpAmp to have some hysteresis, which would be useful in temperature control.
"safety concerns of mine _powers a mains bulb from the heatsink_ " yup seems like a reasonable concern :P
You are sensational! Thank you for all of your wonderful videos. Big hello from Australia!
DIY or buy arduino
I thought it was cheaper to diy, but I could be wrong
And it is better to use some smaller board format like Arduino pro mini in finished project, a they are soooo cheap to have some in drawer as spare part.
Too complex, buy
If you need very specific features on it DIY is a very good option, but you also need to be very proficient in electronics to not fuck it up.
if it's too make an exact copy, buy chinese copies. If you to make an all integrated circuit, making it will look way more professional
Hello great scott, I really appreciate your channel and videos. I just want to say that your new video format diy or buy is a really nice idea and videos are useful. Keep going like that ;)
7:52 albino dip6 :o
Thanks for the video Scott! I used this solid state relay in my graduation final project.
I personally would much rather trust my own DIY designs over some of the dubious products out of China. I can take much more care in quality control with my own work than I can with a black box full of epoxy resin.
Some triacs are isolated from the heatsink and hard setting thermal epoxy can also be used, giving greater isolation along with thermal silicone pads. The down side to triacs is they fail in the on position which is bad news when using heavy current. Heat dissipation can also be a big negative, especially in very hot conditions.
What is the time in your Countries guys? 9:46 PM Here in India
Circuit's Everywhere 9:48 pm in India
12:25am over here in Australia
1130 in east USA
edit 11:30 AM
6:33 PM in Lithuania
23:40 Indonesia
Solid state relays not meant to with stand high dc voltages. If it burns it closes the connection. If True isolation is needed real relay or contactors should be used.
I have to agree with you on that thought. When I first heard of the optical isolator, it came in the form of the Darlington transistor. The Base was the trigger. Specifications were high speed switching in the microwave range. I have never used solid state relays til now. I need more information before I start on my project which will turn on a slave fan to aid in the cooling of the air conditioner unit.
Češi like!
wtf
jo tak to je super! :)
Konečně někdo :D Pojdme HYPE!
super další :D
ne
As always, great information. I haven't read all the comments, but I am sure there are people telling you what you could do better. Or why aliens make everything you say null and void. But my suggestion is (I hope) less controversial.
Suggestion: Buy a new yellow highlighter. That one is pretty much used up.
I hope DIY will win next time! Awesome Video btw!
DIY or Buy: Amplifyer for stereospeakers. Maybe amps for like, 100W speakers, or for a entry point HI-FI system.
Thanks again for this interesting episode. So as buying looks the better choice this time, don't forget that the relay can only handle 16amps instead of 40, otherwise you might really need that extra 'safety' lol
i used to replace every 2 months all busted solid state relays at the factory where i employed, and that brand was i exactly using and wondering for long time why that 40amps can't be last in every single 25amps heater, so now this will be helpfull, u revealed this chinesse tricks😅😅
Very interesting video.
I was thinking of making me a kind of soft start for a 2 kW motor (to be applied to the Parkside bench saw that will be on sale from next Thursday) and I had seen this SSR but apparently it does not matter to me zero crossing circuit.
The greater problem is how to program an arduino for this (maybe an arduino nano is enough but i'm not sure)
For sale I've seen soft start circuits with prices over 100 euros: too expensive!
Regarding the danger of the DiY circuits, you must close it all in a plastic container and apply an insulation kit on the heatsink.
8:13 Why did you get 10mA for R1 calculation? Your MOC3020 uses according to datasheet 30mA for powering diode. 10mA is used for MOC3022.
WOW!!! THANK YOU, FOR YOUR DILIGENT WORK, AND EXCELLENT, PRACTICAL VIDEO!!! THAT'S AWESOME!!!!
Nice video, but Why you do not use a triac isolated from his heatsink pad like the bta41600b for safety reasons?
Hi, We have a 3 speed stand fan that I'd like to convert to remote control. The simple fix is just to leave it switched on and then add a relay into the 240v mains supply.
What would be good is to see how the 3 different speed buttons work and to add remote functionality. A micro controller might be the easiest way to handle the remove control, but it might be interesting to see if it an be achieved with standard components.
Either way would make an interesting project. Thanks for today's video, another quality video.
I really love this series. As an electronic enthusiast by myself I ask myself frequently if I should buy simple stuff or diy it. Your videos are really a good at showing different aspects and really help me to make decisions. Thanks for that.
If you see constant running current through coil on relay as a problem, then pick a mechanical latching relay.. also there are 2 types of solid state relays.. the one you're using does in fact have a triact, but there is a fet version (for dc explicitly) available from china as well..
Great video and I admire your brave battle with the epoxy/resin fun killer.
As always, thanks for doing another basics video. We will see you next time ⌚
Nice video greatscott...
It is very helpful for me.
1.Please make the video on double layer pcb with soldering mask DLY project.
2. How to choose gsm module for project and what is the difference between different gsm module.
Thank you.
hi Scott, maybe it's in idea to try and create a noice canceling device for the next diy or buy episode! I'm loving your videos from Holland!
I totally agree. Safety is the most important of all..
Thank you buddy, my choice was DIY and worked pretty well for me!
You're my favourite goopbuster!
Well, thank you.
Awsome. Is the dc output versions similar? But with mosfet?
Love your videos Scott! Actually this is the first comment I make on your channel. By the way, the cheap solid state relay you mentioned at the start of the video is from TAIWAN, not China.
Wireless power socket switch thingie. You have an rf remote and you can switch on and off wall sockets
You always bring the best
Thanks