I own 3 x K1 max and several other printers including a X1C and I cannot see any print quality difference in the parts I make between them (mostly printing PETG) and I run Orca slicer on them all now and all printers have stock nozzles... no problem here !
For those with clogging issues, i think it may be heat from the stepper motor on the extruder. I took the motor over off, and put a small heatsink, i have had a clog yet. Heres hoping
I had a lot of the same problems on my k1 and I switched out my hotend to a similar one you put on and I increased all my speeds and acceleration and all my vfa’s disappeared and I also changed my print settings to print outer walls first and that helped too and I changed my extruder out for a printed one from printables. I have had to change the tension arm as it bent but it’s not a big deal and I put on a pei textured bed from an Ender 3 and that’s been working very well. But after doing all of that it’s been an amazing printer
You should have probably have done a PID calibration and a resonance test after changing the nozzle. I got lucky and my k1 is quite good. I did level my bed and rooted it. It is now my most reliable printer. I picked up one similar to the triangle lab one a while back. So I may try it.
I see you having the stock bowden tube in place, might wanna swap that for a capricorn one. That normally gets rid of a lot of the flow issues. On all my printers I build spool holders with bearings, just the little less friction on a full spool reduces surface problems even more.
I love my K1 Maxs, no issues other than hot end clogging.. I tried the Trianglelab CHCB-OT and it clogged right away. A K1 Max update solved the issue but it started leaking soon after.
How would you rank the K1 among the other printers you currently have? (X1C, Prusa mk4, others?)
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Here's what I'm curious about. I currently own the new series k1 max. There is a unicorn nozzle on it. I want to use a normal nozzle instead. But what I don't understand is, is the product in the video compatible with the new series?
Thanks for the clarification. I chatted with their online support, she assured me if I place order now (in the US) I will get the K1C upgrades for the K1 Max. BTW just curious where you bought yours from? Amazon, Creality website, Microcenter, etc?
I used the microsswiss hot end and nozzle on my regular k1, also had to upgrade the extruder to the newer version. The one thing I have to say is the microswiss nozzle is very nicely done and there is a noticeable difference in quality between it and a stock nozzle.
I have 5 K1 Max printers, pulled them out of the box, let the setup run and every print came off without issue. They have run for little over 6 minutes months without issue. I did recently change the hot end to the Micro Swiss so I could use other filament that won’t work through the stock hot end. I print at 300 - 330 mm. I am very happy with the K1’s and am looking at getting a couple of the new multi-color K1s
I just tune it and im getting everything at 340 speed , just perfect except for concentric infill (warps a lot wit cicular infill) but the rest is just perfect.
i have other printers and im dying to figure out how to fix settings, 2 need big tweeks to the supports to make it cleaner and then maybe some over hang work and a way to speed up one of them
well, with CNC, it's more of the appropriate feeds and speeds for the material and cutter. with aluminum, sometimes going much faster creates a better part.
@RobertCowanDIY actually quite the opposite slower speeds usually end up with less tooling marks. This was what I was saying slowing down the print and adjusting your layer height should yeild instantly better results in your prints. Less layer line bumps equals better quality parts.
@@YouCanFixIt We're gonna disagree here, but optimized paths for high speed machining (high spindle speed and high feed) gets you a better finish. Now, if you're dealing with old bridgeports from the 70s, they can't move fast enough to leverage that. but with modern machines, faster is better. It's all about small cuts, not loading up the tool, etc.
@RobertCowanDIY I work on a Haas VM6 every day speed increases heat and chatter hence why we have feed and speed charts. With printing I would again say the first ajusting you should do is .016 layer height the slicer should ajust the speed then increase your travel speeds. I have both bambu and creality machines k1 max and a p1p both needed that 1 ajustment to produce production parts right out the box. Both have paid for themselves running almost 24hrs a day for the last 6 months.
@@jayp.4381 Yeah, it was 'OK' with PLA, not the best quality, but decent. But with ASA it wasn't really usable. One print would be fine, but the next one would be way off.
Great honest review, I love my K1C no issues, I must admit I think Creality learnt from the mistakes they made originally with the K1 and K1 max. Upgraded nozzle unicorn , extruded etc.
![[TH] FS vs BME - VCT Ascension Pacific - Lower Bracket Final](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wnygqsR2Fig/mqdefault.jpg)
I own 3 x K1 max and several other printers including a X1C and I cannot see any print quality difference in the parts I make between them (mostly printing PETG) and I run Orca slicer on them all now and all printers have stock nozzles... no problem here !
I don't own this printer nor do I plan on buying it or anything, but I watched the video anyway because I guess I find them relaxing & informative!
Same, I watch all Roberts videos for the same reason!
For those with clogging issues, i think it may be heat from the stepper motor on the extruder. I took the motor over off, and put a small heatsink, i have had a clog yet. Heres hoping
I had a lot of the same problems on my k1 and I switched out my hotend to a similar one you put on and I increased all my speeds and acceleration and all my vfa’s disappeared and I also changed my print settings to print outer walls first and that helped too and I changed my extruder out for a printed one from printables. I have had to change the tension arm as it bent but it’s not a big deal and I put on a pei textured bed from an Ender 3 and that’s been working very well. But after doing all of that it’s been an amazing printer
You should have probably have done a PID calibration and a resonance test after changing the nozzle. I got lucky and my k1 is quite good. I did level my bed and rooted it. It is now my most reliable printer. I picked up one similar to the triangle lab one a while back. So I may try it.
I see you having the stock bowden tube in place, might wanna swap that for a capricorn one. That normally gets rid of a lot of the flow issues. On all my printers I build spool holders with bearings, just the little less friction on a full spool reduces surface problems even more.
I love my K1 Maxs, no issues other than hot end clogging.. I tried the Trianglelab CHCB-OT and it clogged right away. A K1 Max update solved the issue but it started leaking soon after.
The problem is the filament
Do you have link to these test-prints you used here?
Do you have a link to all the test print STL's you used?
How would you rank the K1 among the other printers you currently have? (X1C, Prusa mk4, others?)
Here's what I'm curious about. I currently own the new series k1 max. There is a unicorn nozzle on it. I want to use a normal nozzle instead. But what I don't understand is, is the product in the video compatible with the new series?
Do you mean K1C? I think K1 Max does not use unicorn nozzle.
@@martincstee5335 No, not K1C. My K1 Max comes standard with a unicorn nozzle. 2. Series K1 Max.
Thanks for the clarification. I chatted with their online support, she assured me if I place order now (in the US) I will get the K1C upgrades for the K1 Max. BTW just curious where you bought yours from? Amazon, Creality website, Microcenter, etc?
Creality Print sucks though... 😞
Eh, it's gotten a LOT better and Orcaslicer has decent profiles.
@@RobertCowanDIY ehhhh I haven't used 5 yet because last time I tried Mack only had version 4, but Orca rocks
Sell it. Cut your losses. Printer is junk.
I used the microsswiss hot end and nozzle on my regular k1, also had to upgrade the extruder to the newer version. The one thing I have to say is the microswiss nozzle is very nicely done and there is a noticeable difference in quality between it and a stock nozzle.
I have 5 K1 Max printers, pulled them out of the box, let the setup run and every print came off without issue. They have run for little over 6 minutes months without issue. I did recently change the hot end to the Micro Swiss so I could use other filament that won’t work through the stock hot end. I print at 300 - 330 mm. I am very happy with the K1’s and am looking at getting a couple of the new multi-color K1s
I just tune it and im getting everything at 340 speed , just perfect except for concentric infill (warps a lot wit cicular infill) but the rest is just perfect.
I just put a microswiss on my k1max. Its a quality part. They have a cht nozzle and a diamondback nozzle along with the hardened.
i have other printers and im dying to figure out how to fix settings, 2 need big tweeks to the supports to make it cleaner and then maybe some over hang work and a way to speed up one of them
edit, seemed to just need a tighted bolt on the print head
My print quality is pretty good biggest flaw is printing at too high of a speed and too high of a layer height. Just like cnc work speeds matter.
well, with CNC, it's more of the appropriate feeds and speeds for the material and cutter. with aluminum, sometimes going much faster creates a better part.
@RobertCowanDIY actually quite the opposite slower speeds usually end up with less tooling marks. This was what I was saying slowing down the print and adjusting your layer height should yeild instantly better results in your prints. Less layer line bumps equals better quality parts.
@@YouCanFixIt We're gonna disagree here, but optimized paths for high speed machining (high spindle speed and high feed) gets you a better finish. Now, if you're dealing with old bridgeports from the 70s, they can't move fast enough to leverage that. but with modern machines, faster is better. It's all about small cuts, not loading up the tool, etc.
@RobertCowanDIY I work on a Haas VM6 every day speed increases heat and chatter hence why we have feed and speed charts. With printing I would again say the first ajusting you should do is .016 layer height the slicer should ajust the speed then increase your travel speeds. I have both bambu and creality machines k1 max and a p1p both needed that 1 ajustment to produce production parts right out the box. Both have paid for themselves running almost 24hrs a day for the last 6 months.
@@YouCanFixIt Ah, interesting. I'm still not convinced that the same rules apply to additive as they do to subtractive?
/shrug... Nothing wrong with my K1 Max
You got lucky! A lot of people have problems with them. I could do PLA fairly well, but it struggled with ASA.
@@RobertCowanDIY well dang, I guess I might revise that statement. I haven’t tried ASA yet loool!
@@jayp.4381 Yeah, it was 'OK' with PLA, not the best quality, but decent. But with ASA it wasn't really usable. One print would be fine, but the next one would be way off.
Great honest review, I love my K1C no issues, I must admit I think Creality learnt from the mistakes they made originally with the K1 and K1 max. Upgraded nozzle unicorn , extruded etc.
nice, glad it's working for you.
can't wait videos about S1 and T1
👍😎👍
Creality amirite