Glad to hear that Steve. We did have a nice low key Christmas. Nice to spend time with the wife and kids. Maybe next year we'll be up for a big gathering.
One thing you might want to do BEFORE the wax trick is to use a grinder and remove some of those sharp edges of the cast iron and create a little bit of a bevel so as not to catch toilet paper or tampons.
Doing my research mid-project when I found the wax ring wasn’t the only issue with a leaky toilet 😬 thank you so much for being so clear and concise! 🤘 Your skill is greatly appreciated
If the old flange is flush to the floor or recessed a little then consider the "Twist-N-Set" repair flange by Oatey. Found it in stock at the local big box, about $26 for the 4 inch version. Has a tapered thread and rubber seal that you can tighten up against the inside of your drain pipe. You have to clean the inside of the drain pipe so you can make a good seal but ultimately it allows you to leave everything intact. If the old flange was flush to floor then the new Oatey flange sits about 7/16" above the floor. The new toilets I bought (Delta from the same big box) could accept a flange up to 1/2" above the floor so no further modification required. With the new flange snug in place I drilled a few holes through the old flange and floor for 1/4" tapcon screws with the tapered wood screw type heads and those fit the new flange perfectly and sat flush. It is plastic and rubber so maybe this is only a 20-30 year fix instead of a 50-70 year fix but it got the job done without the scope of the project spiraling out of control. The whole pipe the old flange was soldered to was lead in my case (1950 original with the house) so I was concerned I would damage it if I tried to get the old flange off. I thought about cutting the lead with a Dremel or similar tool but seems like that would introduce a lot of lead particles into my home. On the other toilet in my house, similar situation but the flange was above the floor a little. Fortunately, this one was not soldered. They just rolled the lead over the lip of the flange. So I pried it back with a screwdriver, removed the old flange, tapped the lead pipe lightly with a small hammer to reshape it and get it flush with the floor, then used the Oatey repair flange.
Hey Alex, I really liked your post. I like the idea of not messing with the flange if I don't have to, and I've seen that flange you're talking about. It seems better as far as water leakage also, since all the waste is going inside of the original cast iron pipe. But you're saying the key is, the old lead flange has to be flush or slightly lower than the finished floor, to work? Thanks for your post.
Fantastic video, I had my toilet loose and rocking for no known reason and I just lifted it off and found a cast iron flange all broken off like your friend's was. Thanks for walking through all the steps and linking the tools and parts as well.
I used plumber's putty on top of the lead... My cast iron flange was still in pretty good condition without cracks, just needed to be wire cleaned... I noticed the old white plumber's putty or a similar soft putty, and just re-applied new putty on top of the lead. Then I used that yellow wax, but it was like 60 degrees so I used heat gun to get the clay a bit softer to seal better. I finished off the toilet with a Gorilla white seal adhesive caulk. It stays flexible after the seal dries. Today was my first time installing a toilet and it was a time consuming DIY, but a learning/fun experience.
Touching lead isn't a big deal. Ingesting or inhaling is to be avoided, so wear a mask when drilling, prying, or grinding on lead. Thanks for the video. Very helpful.
The fastest method I've found involves cutting a deep groove in the outer CI flange (oscillating tools work). Then pound a flathead screwdriver into the slot. The CI flange will split and release. Then just "walk" it up and off the CI pipe. Usually takes about 15 mins total and no messing with lead required.
Thank you for the video!! I didn’t know how to remove the cast iron flange and after seeing this I was confident to also use my cordless drill to remove the old lead in the gap. Thank you again!
Thank you for this. I was originally taught another way which took way longer and I was dreading it until I saw your clip just now. I went and did it, 20 minutes. I had that old thing out!
Thx for the great video! I have gotten the lead out and am now trying to figure out how to get the flange loose from the concrete. It is in there solid and the flange is also mostly sound except for the stripped screw holes. It is an old and odd flange. I am probably going to have to cut it in a few places to break it out in pieces. Fun, fun, fun for the DIY guy.
This video was so helpful, the first plumbing company i worked for, they kept sending me out on big jobs like cleanouts, slab leaks, main replacements, those i all feel confident doing, all the smaller jobs that didnt require an apprentice, i find my self struggling in the field cause I was never properly shown how to do something, Ive lost out on money on some ragged flanges that needed to be replaced for preventative measures but I didnt know how to do it. Great video and tutorial!
Nice video, drill more holes though, makes it much easier to remove also use the new "plastic flange" with the inner securing ring, that metal "outside" ring can leak squeezes the pipe from the outside in which is not promising, the plastic flange pushes out, more secure. also you didn't put your mounting bolts in first??
Just did this. My son put a toothbrush down the toilet and flushed. I had to break the metal flange with a hammer and screw driver all the way around because the metal rusted terribly. I saved so much money doing this on my own.
I always use silicone to fill that gap instead of ruining a wax ring! It’s quick and silicone is the perfect water seal! Always enjoy good work and I really liked the way you cut out those holes to allow the flange to sit perfectly!
Thank you for your video, it really helps, l really appreciated because you take the time to explain it with good details. Thanks again, see you in the next video.
Actually you just taught me something and I like it if there’s no air hole so to speak no gap there’s no leak spending an extra dollars on a wax ring to do this this is worth it at least to me thanks
Good vid. I stopped using the flanges like you have on projects I come across. And I went to using the internal compression flanges and breaking the old flange free. And since I have stopped using wax based rings all together it works out well.
I have used the internal pvc compression flanges and the do work great. What do you use instead of wax ring? I always prefer the wax, but I'm no opposed to trying something that works. Old School!
A common amateur install by whomever remodeled the bathroom the last time. I'm dealing with the same problem now. Someone put down a tile floor without raising the flange, it should be on the surface of the floor not recessed. Either raise the flange or apply spacers under the wax ring because when you tighten the toilet to the floor if there's too much space between the ring and toilet when tightening the bolts it puts too much stress on the flange and will crack the bolt slots. The shim kits are only about $10 for people who install floors in structures with old plumbing.
If you had a grinding cut off wheel that small that would fit in there. I have a new way I think I just need to test it out. New tools and experimentation solve all kinds of issues.
Cool looking closet collar. But I think it's to involved. Lead and okum seems simpler. Good video and good tip. I use plumbers puddy but wax is good too.
You mold a ring out of plumbers putty? I have never seen that. That has to be real old school plumbing. To me this was easier than putting lead and oakum back in.
Score notches in the ring. Use cold chisel and single Jack placed in notches and the old flange will break out in pieces way faster than how you did it. Also, avoid all handy Andy plastic flange ring replacement things. They’re for hacks and still leak under tile flooring. Use quikrete to fill the gap.
Before all these new replacement flanges I would keep my lead stub cutoff pieces use a deep set brass flange and pour lead around it to replace old cast iron flange
knowing my luck I would break the pipe as well. If you run across one, film it. I would love to see the process. Maybe we could do a video about different ways to take off a cast iron flange.
I would totally be nervous doing that. It would be a little less work than the way I do it. I just wonder if anyone has ever broke the pipe chiseling the flange off.
Great job. I would be concerned if the toilet ever stops up , and someone has to plunge it vigorously. It could dislodge some of the wax covering the crease. The advantage of leading a cast iron flange back on . The crease will be filled with oakum and lead. I enjoyed the content. Keep it coming
Next time just use a round 4-in hole saw bit on a drill (or whatever size fits for u around the cast iron in between the flange sitting on the lead only) drill out the lead and then just pop up the flange with a screwdriver. Then replace the flange . Done simple
Whomever initially installed my toilet decided to bolt the toilet directly to the concrete floor. My question is, do I have to remove these anchoring bolts before attempting this repair? It was an iron flange to iron pipe but everything was rusted. Any help appreciated.
I like the toilet flange idea. But sometimes the pipe that toilet flange hooks on to is broken. Then it's a bigger problem and the pipe it self needs to be replaced. And if floor is concrete it's can become a nightmare.
We have a similar need, but we need an offset flange. Do you have any directions for that? Because our current rough-in is 11.5" and the toilet doesn't fit.
Just did mine and did about 60 holes all around and the needle nose pliars and hammer pried out the rest. Took about 10min, broke one drill bit. Didnt think lead would break a hardened bit, but whatever...
Hey great video but i have a question. I have a similar situation but the cast iron flange is too high for a the tile we are going to put in. So im going to remove old flange like you showed and cut down pipe a tiny bit. But then should i use one of these CI flanges like you used or should i buy that plastic white oatey flange that goes inside the pipe and tightens a band inside to seal to old pipe?
I have a house built in 1939. Is it possible that the toilet drain pipe is 3 1/2 inches?? The 3 inch flange was way too small and the 4 inch compression flange didn't fit inside! ugh! I have one on order like you just used.
As long as the old cast iron flange with a new one over the top isn’t 1/2”+ above the tile you do not need to cut out the old cast iron flange and lead flange
What happens if the installer put in a lead layer under the packing. That’s probably what I’m dealing with. I’m going to take a long shank drill bit to hopefully provide some movement. Otherwise I’m at a loss
@@ThatFixItGuy Thanks again Brian. I have to replace the flange or do one of the repair items on it. Have you ever tried any of the plastic inserts in these? I saw one on this old house. It does not look as sturdy as your fix.
I'm trying to remove an old cast iron flange at my parent's house and can't seem to get all the lead out, and there are some broken bits stuck down there too, the flange just doesn't want to separate from the pipe. Any advice?
You can add some heat if you need too. I have never had to though. They may have just poured a very thick lead joint there. Used a drill bit that is just a bit smaller than the gap. Make as many holes as you can. If you decide to use a torch be careful with that hot lead. It always freaks me out.
Why use a cast iron replacement flange rather than ABS or PVC? Thanks! Great video. How many of these did you do before you did one that went this smoothly? Not looking forward to doing this on my old toilet. 😁
I needed to use a cast iron flange in order to maintain the previous flange height. I tried using a Pvc flange first and ended up two inches high. The job took me about 6 hours the first try but I had to stabilize several floor joists and replace all of my subfloor.
Yep I think that was the reason I had to do my first one of these. I’ve also had to take the cast iron pipe down to floor level a couple times to make the flange work.
@@chadcorney8418 Thanks! I went with cast iron. I still had to cut the old pipe down twice to get the flange to floor level. What a mess. Definitely wear a respiratior (Thanks to Covid I have a bunch of N-95's around the house now!). It was surprisingly difficult to get the flange to sit level. Three tries and I was still off a bit. But my 60 plus year old toilet is solid again! I did use a non-wax ring for the first time. That wax is just so gross.
@thatfixitguy next time (coming from a plumber) use a rotary hammer drill, you don't have to drill the holes, or use a hammer and chisel, hammer action will punch the lead either a hole in it or use a concrete chisel bit, it'll dig the lead out and can split the cast iron flange in 2 to pull out easier, you'll thank me later
Definitely sounds like it would be faster. I am a bit nervous about old cast iron pipe breaking trying this. Have you ever had the pipe break or crack? The next time I run into one I will have to give it a try.
@@ThatFixItGuy I was thinking of an old lesson I was taught, In the book "Who won the tortoise and the hare" “Don't brag about your lightning pace, for Slow and Steady won the race!”
@@bobjones2106 lol I agree there even though I’ve still had some dreadful screw ups going slow and steady, but that goes to the next old phrase sometimes sh*t happens lol
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Great video brother. Awesome tips for someone who needs to do this. Thanks for all your help
Thank you Steve! Yeah it is not as bad of a job as some make it out to be! Just have a get a little dirty with it! How was Your Christmas?
@@ThatFixItGuy I had a very nice Christmas with my family and I hope you did as well.
Glad to hear that Steve. We did have a nice low key Christmas. Nice to spend time with the wife and kids. Maybe next year we'll be up for a big gathering.
One thing you might want to do BEFORE the wax trick is to use a grinder and remove some of those sharp edges of the cast iron and create a little bit of a bevel so as not to catch toilet paper or tampons.
I like your idea of putting the wax between the gold and red part of the flange.
Doing my research mid-project when I found the wax ring wasn’t the only issue with a leaky toilet 😬 thank you so much for being so clear and concise! 🤘 Your skill is greatly appreciated
Your welcome. So glad this could help you out.
Setting toilets can be a pain, they are easily my least favorite job to do as a plumber. And that says a lot as we have done well crappy jobs
If the old flange is flush to the floor or recessed a little then consider the "Twist-N-Set" repair flange by Oatey. Found it in stock at the local big box, about $26 for the 4 inch version. Has a tapered thread and rubber seal that you can tighten up against the inside of your drain pipe. You have to clean the inside of the drain pipe so you can make a good seal but ultimately it allows you to leave everything intact.
If the old flange was flush to floor then the new Oatey flange sits about 7/16" above the floor. The new toilets I bought (Delta from the same big box) could accept a flange up to 1/2" above the floor so no further modification required.
With the new flange snug in place I drilled a few holes through the old flange and floor for 1/4" tapcon screws with the tapered wood screw type heads and those fit the new flange perfectly and sat flush.
It is plastic and rubber so maybe this is only a 20-30 year fix instead of a 50-70 year fix but it got the job done without the scope of the project spiraling out of control. The whole pipe the old flange was soldered to was lead in my case (1950 original with the house) so I was concerned I would damage it if I tried to get the old flange off. I thought about cutting the lead with a Dremel or similar tool but seems like that would introduce a lot of lead particles into my home.
On the other toilet in my house, similar situation but the flange was above the floor a little. Fortunately, this one was not soldered. They just rolled the lead over the lip of the flange. So I pried it back with a screwdriver, removed the old flange, tapped the lead pipe lightly with a small hammer to reshape it and get it flush with the floor, then used the Oatey repair flange.
Hey Alex, I really liked your post. I like the idea of not messing with the flange if I don't have to, and I've seen that flange you're talking about. It seems better as far as water leakage also, since all the waste is going inside of the original cast iron pipe. But you're saying the key is, the old lead flange has to be flush or slightly lower than the finished floor, to work? Thanks for your post.
Yes, just did this today after using a grinder I figured out it was leaded. Took 15 minutes after I watched this video tremendously helpful.
So glad this was able to help you out.
Fantastic video, I had my toilet loose and rocking for no known reason and I just lifted it off and found a cast iron flange all broken off like your friend's was. Thanks for walking through all the steps and linking the tools and parts as well.
Really appreciate the thorough explanation for removing an old flange
I used plumber's putty on top of the lead... My cast iron flange was still in pretty good condition without cracks, just needed to be wire cleaned... I noticed the old white plumber's putty or a similar soft putty, and just re-applied new putty on top of the lead. Then I used that yellow wax, but it was like 60 degrees so I used heat gun to get the clay a bit softer to seal better. I finished off the toilet with a Gorilla white seal adhesive caulk. It stays flexible after the seal dries. Today was my first time installing a toilet and it was a time consuming DIY, but a learning/fun experience.
Touching lead isn't a big deal. Ingesting or inhaling is to be avoided, so wear a mask when drilling, prying, or grinding on lead. Thanks for the video. Very helpful.
The fastest method I've found involves cutting a deep groove in the outer CI flange (oscillating tools work). Then pound a flathead screwdriver into the slot. The CI flange will split and release. Then just "walk" it up and off the CI pipe. Usually takes about 15 mins total and no messing with lead required.
Thank you for the video!! I didn’t know how to remove the cast iron flange and after seeing this I was confident to also use my cordless drill to remove the old lead in the gap. Thank you again!
Your welcome! So glad this could help you out. It is a big job.
Me too 😂
If toilet flange is broken and needs to be replaced. Just tap flange with a hammer and remove flange and lead.
Thank you for this. I was originally taught another way which took way longer and I was dreading it until I saw your clip just now. I went and did it, 20 minutes. I had that old thing out!
You and TH-cam saved my house remodel budget! Thanks for the videos!
Sweet! So glad this could help! TH-cam really is great for these things.
I've always drilled around the lead, and pry it out. It takes a bit of effort but you eventually get there.
I think you got lucky with the set up of this one! The wax in the gap and on the bolt heads was a great idea, good video man!
Thank you! I try to do anything I can to make sure there is no issue for the next guy.
Thank you very much. I learned something from you today. This video was very helpful. I couldn't find another.
Awesome watching a guy that is so good at his not even breathing hard thank you for that ur a great teacher
Let me tell you something that fix it guy. I followed your steps exactly and it worked! Thank you! never did any Plumbing but that toilet had to go!!!
That is great to hear. I hope we can help you fix something again.
This is the best video hands down. Clear and easy
Thanks for the tips Brian! The Do It Yourself (DIY) Project that you talked us through with replacing the wax rings on the toilet is still holding up!
That is great to hear! Hope you are having a good Christmas!
Thx for the great video! I have gotten the lead out and am now trying to figure out how to get the flange loose from the concrete. It is in there solid and the flange is also mostly sound except for the stripped screw holes. It is an old and odd flange. I am probably going to have to cut it in a few places to break it out in pieces. Fun, fun, fun for the DIY guy.
This video was so helpful, the first plumbing company i worked for, they kept sending me out on big jobs like cleanouts, slab leaks, main replacements, those i all feel confident doing, all the smaller jobs that didnt require an apprentice, i find my self struggling in the field cause I was never properly shown how to do something, Ive lost out on money on some ragged flanges that needed to be replaced for preventative measures but I didnt know how to do it. Great video and tutorial!
Great video and information Brian your friend is fortunate to have a buddy like you 👍
Thank you Britt! I always feel like fortunate one. I enjoying being able to help!
Nice video, drill more holes though, makes it much easier to remove
also use the new "plastic flange" with the inner securing ring, that metal
"outside" ring can leak squeezes the pipe from the outside in which is not
promising, the plastic flange pushes out, more secure. also
you didn't put your mounting bolts in first??
would have it not been better to put in the wood screws to the floor before tightening the 7/16 bolts.
Just did this. My son put a toothbrush down the toilet and flushed. I had to break the metal flange with a hammer and screw driver all the way around because the metal rusted terribly. I saved so much money doing this on my own.
I always use silicone to fill that gap instead of ruining a wax ring! It’s quick and silicone is the perfect water seal! Always enjoy good work and I really liked the way you cut out those holes to allow the flange to sit perfectly!
Thank you and your right silicone would be a great alternative to my wax method.
@@ThatFixItGuy I guess there might be something good about being old!
Suks for the guy that has to take it off someday
Yokum, seems to be palm fibers, they do seem to be woven when dealing with the palm “bark” in nature.
Thanks for the tips. Great video! Going to make my job today so much easier.
Your very welcome! Glad it could help.
@@ThatFixItGuy It took less than 5 minutes to get it off after watching. Thanks again
Thank you for your video, it really helps, l really appreciated because you take the time to explain it with good details. Thanks again, see you in the next video.
Awesome. So glad this could help you out.
Actually you just taught me something and I like it if there’s no air hole so to speak no gap there’s no leak spending an extra dollars on a wax ring to do this this is worth it at least to me thanks
Solid gold baby!
So glad this could help you out.
Need a block of wood while taping that with hammer or prying old out. GREAT VIDEO WILL HELP ME TODAY
I could have used a piece of 2x4. Did you get it taken care of?
Great awesome video, this is my GoTo Cast Iron toilet flange replacement vid. Great job, thx
So glad this was able to help you. Please share and help us grow. Thank you.
Good vid. I stopped using the flanges like you have on projects I come across. And I went to using the internal compression flanges and breaking the old flange free. And since I have stopped using wax based rings all together it works out well.
I have used the internal pvc compression flanges and the do work great. What do you use instead of wax ring? I always prefer the wax, but I'm no opposed to trying something that works. Old School!
@@ThatFixItGuy I use either enviro-green or the fluid master waxless kits.
I have seen the fluidmaster waxless , but not used them. I am going to look up the enviro-greens. I love learning about products that work.
@@ThatFixItGuy ee
@@ThatFixItGuy vggg
Where did you get the flange at?
A common amateur install by whomever remodeled the bathroom the last time. I'm dealing with the same problem now. Someone put down a tile floor without raising the flange, it should be on the surface of the floor not recessed. Either raise the flange or apply spacers under the wax ring because when you tighten the toilet to the floor if there's too much space between the ring and toilet when tightening the bolts it puts too much stress on the flange and will crack the bolt slots. The shim kits are only about $10 for people who install floors in structures with old plumbing.
heat it up and the lead will melt and the flange will slide right off. good job getting it done bro
Thank you. I’m not a fan of lead fumes. Your right that is a quick way though.
Shouldn't you screw down the flange first then tighten the gasket ring?
Your probably right. I do things weird sometimes.
Did you consider using an internal cutter to remove the top portion of the cast iron , instead of the method you used?
If you had a grinding cut off wheel that small that would fit in there. I have a new way I think I just need to test it out. New tools and experimentation solve all kinds of issues.
Good job Good idea using the wax around inside of rim
I will give you one tip... Spray some WD-40 on the area you are drilling, it will save your bits and will drill a lot faster through the metal.
Solid work and game plan
Thank you! And I hope this helped.
Cool looking closet collar. But I think it's to involved. Lead and okum seems simpler. Good video and good tip. I use plumbers puddy but wax is good too.
You mold a ring out of plumbers putty? I have never seen that. That has to be real old school plumbing. To me this was easier than putting lead and oakum back in.
Score notches in the ring. Use cold chisel and single Jack placed in notches and the old flange will break out in pieces way faster than how you did it.
Also, avoid all handy Andy plastic flange ring replacement things. They’re for hacks and still leak under tile flooring. Use quikrete to fill the gap.
Before all these new replacement flanges I would keep my lead stub cutoff pieces use a deep set brass flange and pour lead around it to replace old cast iron flange
you can use a hammer and chisel to snap one side of the flange. then you can just pull up the flange with a channel lock pliers.
I would be so scared to do that! Ever broke the pipe doing that? Maybe will try it the next time a run across one! Great suggestion. Thank you!
@@ThatFixItGuy that is the way most people do it
knowing my luck I would break the pipe as well. If you run across one, film it. I would love to see the process. Maybe we could do a video about different ways to take off a cast iron flange.
@@ThatFixItGuy i dont have a recording of it but here is a this old house episode where they do it. th-cam.com/video/wKI3NC674MA/w-d-xo.html
I would totally be nervous doing that. It would be a little less work than the way I do it. I just wonder if anyone has ever broke the pipe chiseling the flange off.
Great job. I would be concerned if the toilet ever stops up , and someone has to plunge it vigorously. It could dislodge some of the wax covering the crease. The advantage of leading a cast iron flange back on . The crease will be filled with oakum and lead. I enjoyed the content. Keep it coming
Awesome! This definitely helps me out. Thank you!
New stile toilet? Bolts in front and back nice!
Next time just use a round 4-in hole saw bit on a drill (or whatever size fits for u around the cast iron in between the flange sitting on the lead only) drill out the lead and then just pop up the flange with a screwdriver. Then replace the flange . Done simple
Great video really gave me a good idea of what I'll be doing this weekend. You left one thing out. Was the G I Joe safe, No man left behind!
😂 unfortunately the GI Joe to a ride down the big smelly water slide! Let me know how it goes for you and if you have a question please ask.
Whomever initially installed my toilet decided to bolt the toilet directly to the concrete floor. My question is, do I have to remove these anchoring bolts before attempting this repair? It was an iron flange to iron pipe but everything was rusted. Any help appreciated.
What to do if you have a concrete sub floor?
Am I missing something? Wasn't the okum used to simply form a stopper for the poured lead back in the day?
I think you did a great job I really like it
Great Dyi 👍🏼 Thanks
I like the toilet flange idea. But sometimes the pipe that toilet flange hooks on to is broken. Then it's a bigger problem and the pipe it self needs to be replaced. And if floor is concrete it's can become a nightmare.
We have a similar need, but we need an offset flange. Do you have any directions for that? Because our current rough-in is 11.5" and the toilet doesn't fit.
You need a spacer under the flange to bring it up to tile height
Is it safe to take out the lead by grind it out??
Perhaps a small amount of heat from a torch could help to get all the lead out faster .you did a great job!!
Thank you for sharing. Good job, you show off😜.
Question, could you use a small torch to make the lead even softer?
Yeah you could heat the lead up a little bit. I’m not into putting a torch around sewer, but I know plumber do all the time.
Could you use plumbers putty if you didn't have the was ring
Just did mine and did about 60 holes all around and the needle nose pliars and hammer pried out the rest. Took about 10min, broke one drill bit. Didnt think lead would break a hardened bit, but whatever...
Nice job.
Thank you
looks like i may not of been easy to put t bolts in after you got done. more carving?
What size hole-saw bit did you use? I couldn’t find it in the list of tool links. Thanks!
Sorry I did not realize that was something I did not put in there. Pretty sure is was 3/4 hole saw
Hey great video but i have a question. I have a similar situation but the cast iron flange is too high for a the tile we are going to put in. So im going to remove old flange like you showed and cut down pipe a tiny bit. But then should i use one of these CI flanges like you used or should i buy that plastic white oatey flange that goes inside the pipe and tightens a band inside to seal to old pipe?
That is up to you. I have used both that they work great. Sometimes you end up going with what’s available.
@@ThatFixItGuy cool thanks again👍
Your welcome.
the higher the flange, the more wax it squeezes out from the toilet.
I have a house built in 1939. Is it possible that the toilet drain pipe is 3 1/2 inches?? The 3 inch flange was way too small and the 4 inch compression flange didn't fit inside! ugh! I have one on order like you just used.
Wow! Interesting! What kind of material is it? Can you send me a picture? Ufix247@gmail.com
can u use a propane torch to soften it up a nit
I’ve thought of this, just have never done it. Thank you for the suggestion.
As long as the old cast iron flange with a new one over the top isn’t 1/2”+ above the tile you do not need to cut out the old cast iron flange and lead flange
I guess you could go that route. I’ve never done that. Can you send me a picture of an example on Facebook or email.
Comes out easier with more holes drilled close together.
enjoyed this helpful video.thanks.
Can I just use an air chisle/hammer??
I dont see the parts listed in the "description box"
Thank you for posting this vid. This got me out of a pickle. Have a Happy Thanksgiving !
What happens if the installer put in a lead layer under the packing. That’s probably what I’m dealing with. I’m going to take a long shank drill bit to hopefully provide some movement. Otherwise I’m at a loss
well they would have had to put another layer of oakum as well. seems weird though.
Nice idea if you don’t want to pack and pour but pack and pouring seems easier lol
Thanks Brian I have never replaced a cast iron pipe.
If you have to this will help! Hope you never have to! 😉
@@ThatFixItGuy Thanks again Brian. I have to replace the flange or do one of the repair items on it. Have you ever tried any of the plastic inserts in these? I saw one on this old house. It does not look as sturdy as your fix.
Shouldn't you have tried to clean the outside of the pipe some so the rubber gasket has cleaner metal to sit against?
MINE is in CONCRETE-- I am eager to see this.
Drill 3 or 4 times the amount of holes makes it a lot easier to get the lead out in pieces.
muchas gracias
Perfect!
So glad this could help you out.
I'm trying to remove an old cast iron flange at my parent's house and can't seem to get all the lead out, and there are some broken bits stuck down there too, the flange just doesn't want to separate from the pipe. Any advice?
You can add some heat if you need too. I have never had to though. They may have just poured a very thick lead joint there. Used a drill bit that is just a bit smaller than the gap. Make as many holes as you can. If you decide to use a torch be careful with that hot lead. It always freaks me out.
Why use a cast iron replacement flange rather than ABS or PVC? Thanks! Great video. How many of these did you do before you did one that went this smoothly? Not looking forward to doing this on my old toilet. 😁
I needed to use a cast iron flange in order to maintain the previous flange height. I tried using a Pvc flange first and ended up two inches high. The job took me about 6 hours the first try but I had to stabilize several floor joists and replace all of my subfloor.
This is my fourth one and yes they have gone a lot smoother than the first one. You got this.
Yep I think that was the reason I had to do my first one of these. I’ve also had to take the cast iron pipe down to floor level a couple times to make the flange work.
@@chadcorney8418 Thanks! I went with cast iron. I still had to cut the old pipe down twice to get the flange to floor level. What a mess. Definitely wear a respiratior (Thanks to Covid I have a bunch of N-95's around the house now!). It was surprisingly difficult to get the flange to sit level. Three tries and I was still off a bit. But my 60 plus year old toilet is solid again! I did use a non-wax ring for the first time. That wax is just so gross.
@@vidaliasoleil2714 It's weird that someone would say "thanks to covid-19," but I know what you mean.
You're awesome!!! Thank you!
@thatfixitguy next time (coming from a plumber) use a rotary hammer drill, you don't have to drill the holes, or use a hammer and chisel, hammer action will punch the lead either a hole in it or use a concrete chisel bit, it'll dig the lead out and can split the cast iron flange in 2 to pull out easier, you'll thank me later
@thatfixitguy the time it took you to get the lead out, you will already have the toilet on and walking out the door
Definitely sounds like it would be faster. I am a bit nervous about old cast iron pipe breaking trying this. Have you ever had the pipe break or crack?
The next time I run into one I will have to give it a try.
@@ThatFixItGuy I was thinking of an old lesson I was taught, In the book "Who won the tortoise and the hare" “Don't brag about your lightning pace, for Slow and Steady won the race!”
@@bobjones2106 lol I agree there even though I’ve still had some dreadful screw ups going slow and steady, but that goes to the next old phrase sometimes sh*t happens lol
Awesome man 👍🏾
Great video
Good job men
looks like a lot of extra work
Worked out really well though.
Good job
I appreciate the video.
I'm really curious how you pour lead in a cast iron flange. Sounds intimidating.
very easy.
Why not use a torch to soften up that lead?
THANKS BROTHE FOR YOUR VIDEO I LIKE IT
Your welcome! Hope this helped you out.