I work at Home Depot....Now I know about this type of flange... Thanks for a good video and good teaching of the work that needed to be done to complete this job. Thanks Al Sautner
Thank you Al. These really are a great type of flange that not many paisley know about. Has saved me a lot of time and homeowners a lot of money. Plus it is a quality fix.
Super helpful brother! Thanks for the video. I didn’t want to be hammering or chiseling old Abs like I saw in other tutorials. This looks to be by far the best method I have seen so far.
I usually get them at the depot. Some times the boxes are all jacked up. Grab a elbow and just start trying different ones if you can’t find one. Hope we go you hooked up.
Many thanks. I just used a Danco Hydroseat toilet flange to mount over my existing flange, which was bent and rotated 90 degrees to correct, because I didn't know how to remove the existing flange. Your method looks great. Really appreciate it.
@@ThatFixItGuy Yes, I attached mine directly to the floor so the flange top sits 3/8" above the floor. The toilet neck went in to it easily and so far no leaks.
Thanks, my friend. I have had a bit of a hassle with replacing my closet flange. When I pulled the old 40 year old toilet, I could see there was a rusty, bent metal ring with red flaking paint. I cut this metal away, went to the store for a new two piece screw together flange, which they didn't have. So I bought a few tools to get the old PVC fitting out and a new PVC flange ring in. Well, I spent close to 5 hours last Sunday with a cold chisel busting away a bunch of hard concrete so the new PVC flange would sit down closer to level with the floor surface. It is about 1/4" above floor. I used a Fluidmaster 7530 blue rubber seal to get us back in business for a few days till I can screw the flange to the concrete. I'm tempted to just poly adhesive the business in place and forget the screws. I can reuse the blue seal. I hate plumbing projects. They always turn south when I hope otherwise. Thanks for showing what I pretty much did. Bob
@@ThatFixItGuy I hope to find a pack of Tapcon blue screws and two or three concrete drill bits to anchor this flange to the floor so I can secure the bowl to the floor. My take away from all you guys showing "how to" vids is almost every situation is different. Once you get the flange slightly above the finished floor, the seal will hold and not leak. I think wax is from 30 to 50 years ago. I have called up a couple plumbing outfits, and while they can't do the job for me without trying for a bank loan to pay their labor fee, they think that blue Fluidmaster should work well. Thanks and Cheers, Bob
Thank you for helping me with my exact situation! The only difference with is I have to cut the Spicket out of a elbow instead of straight pipe. Thanks my friend!
I signed in just to give you a thumbs up and subscribe. I’ve been doing construction for a long time and never once did. I know you could do this with a new flange. You definitely made my day! Excited to try it today.
As far as I know they don’t make that specific flange in straight plastic. I have only ever found it at one place as well. But I totally understand. If I could I would.
Really great video (good lighting, camera angle, and audio)! I found this because I’m in the process of renovating my bathroom, and was trying to figure out how to replace my ABS toilet flange (it’s one like this where the metal outside ring can rotate, which I now know is called a spigot style flange). My question is, for the flange you removed, was it glued inside of the elbow, and the new flange you put on glued to the outside of the elbow?
Thank you and I'm glad you like the video and find it useful. So you may not end up using this type of flange. There are many different versions of PVc/ABS plastic flanges with metal rings. Yes, I used this spigot version because I cut out a 3" inside flange and needed to go to the outside of of the old flange. or elbow. This was the easiest way to make a quality flange replacement. I have only been able to find that certain flange at Home Depot. It have saved me and customers lots of work many times. When you get to the point you are ready to fix the flange shoot me a picture if you like. ufix247@gmail.com
@@ThatFixItGuy I just wanted to follow up and say that thanks to you, I was able to replace the 30 year old toilet flange with a new one that fit perfectly over the outside of the 3” elbow that the previous flange was glued inside of. Home Depot had the flange that fit on the outside of the 3” elbow. I cleaned and glued it in place, and then ran some more ABS glue around the inside once installed like you showed in the video. From a first time home-owner, thanks again!
OK first, thank you for ALL your videos. I'm pretty confident in my reno skills but I'll admit, the bathroom on this 1965 stick built is teaching me LOTS. Question, when the house has settled and concrete (tile floor from 65) plus sub is deteriorating, what's the best way to build it back up so my flange replacement can grab something? I've got a good inch n half void on one side of drain pipe. (BTW the drill trick works wonders on lead)
I really enjoyed your well explained video. I am about to remove my old rusted toilet flange. I am not sure mine is the same as your or not. Can I send you some pictures?
got any videos on taking out a lead toilet flange with three 1 1/2 inch pipes going into it then going into cast iron ? just have to take that mess out and replace it with pvc connecting to threaded brass pipes running to kitchen sink bathroom sink and shower
So question. Is it necessary to build up the floor around it? I don't have anything to screw the flange into. It's just open. Someone suggested to use concrete, but when I think about it, there is nothing to hold its weight up. I'm thinking that flange may be my answer. Please give some suggestions! Thanks
Hey that fix-it guy - Question? How do you cut off the type that is 4" pipe straight up with a metal ring around the top, but you cannot see the inside pipe? Thanks Tony
great question. I have not ran into one in a little bit. I have been wanting to find one so I could show my process. I use what is called a socket saver. amzn.to/3bqp9jY make sure you put something down on the drain to catch the plastic pieces. sometimes you will have to use a inside plastic pipe cutter amzn.to/3sdBEW2 first like I to make sure the socket saver lines up correctly before you can use it.. Does this make sense?
@@ThatFixItGuy nope, mine is a 4" ID piece of pipe, about 14" long, with the metal flange ring secured to the top of it . That piece goes down below the floor and glues into an ABS elbow, and the ring then sits on top of the floor. That old floor is about 1-3/4" below the new floor, so i want to get that ring off and trim the top of the pipe so i have a 4" pipe to glue an extra long flange down into. Ever seen a 4" ID ABS with a ring on top - no other pipe inside it. I was gonna try to just cut off that ring and it seems like Id have a 4" pipe - but id need an extra long flange to glue down into it. Ideas? The standard 3x4's arent quite long enough to get a good glue grip inside that 4", plus Ive never cut off the top of one of these - ????? Tony
@That Fix It Guy curious to know the fix for this. Mine is also straight pipe, 4" ID with metal ring molded together with lead. Well, it was welded with lead until I took my drill to it lol
bill edgecombe I found them a Home Depot. You can order online as well. I stumbled across them while looking for a different Abs flange and noticed that it fit perfect of the hub of a 3” fitting. I would always carry a couple on my truck after that. An easy non intrusive way to replace a flange. Thanks for checking out the video.
I feel like if I added measurements to that it would start confusing people. The 3” spigot flange they sell at Home Depot is an in between size that fits over the hub. I 4 in flange is too big.
Great video. I think this is exactly my situation, but can you confirm?? It would be so helpful if while talking through the repair you would state the pipe and flange sizes and i.d./o.d. I have a 3" i.d. PVC drain pipe with 3x4 flange over the outside of that. Flange is badly broken and at wrong height for my new floor so really needs to be replaced, but it's solvent welded... I've seen people cutting and prying and heating and peeling, but it does not really seem promising. Is this a solution for me? I think if I cut it flush, my pipe plus flange remains would be 4" o.d. and a 4" spigot flange would be 4" i.d. that would slip over the top? If so, well damn, that would be amazing. If not, any suggestions for my situation?
I totally think this will work for you. I have never took the OD of a hub of a fitting but you are the second person to ask so I think I should do a video on it. It could be very helpful. The pipe size in this was 3” as well. I bet this will work for you. I stumbled on that spigot flange at Home Depot by grabbing a 3” 90 and and that 3” spigot flange fit over the hub. Quickest thing I can think to do is go to the flange section at the store grab your flange that is in there now and find one that fits over it and will work. I hope this helps.
Cool yeah I stared at it some more after posting my question, and I think it's gonna work too... picking up the flange today, will report on my findings. Thanks for responding! =)
I took a break from this and started tiling my floor. Found the 4" spigot flange, and it's sooooooooo close to working, but not quite. The i.d. of the flange is, as would be expected, 4" exactly. I was hoping to fit this over the remains of a 3x4 flange that is solvent welded over a 3" pvc - I really thought the o.d. of that was 4" and I was in business, but it looks to be 1/16" bigger than 4". fml Any suggestions? Maybe I can just file off the difference, but if not, my plan B is to cut my 3" drain pipe below the existing flange remains, add a coupling and a couple inches of new 3" pipe, and go back to a 3x4 flange on the outside. Any reason not to do that? I don't love the idea of a coupling in the middle of a toilet drain line but I s'pose it doesn't really matter?
Oatey 4in ABS Spigot fit closet flange with plastic ring Upc: 038753435862 Part# 43586 I just bought on so I happened to have all the details. Good timing.
Oh man! I'm not a fan of the crawl either! I have a couple different ways of doing these from up top so I don't have to get in the crawl. Sometimes it is unavoidable, but I really try not to get in there.
@@ThatFixItGuy It is called a spigot because it fits inside the hub (or socket) of a 4 inch fitting. The part is called a "4in ABS Spigot fit closet flange".
I work at Home Depot....Now I know about this type of flange... Thanks for a good video and good teaching of the work that needed to be done to complete this job. Thanks Al Sautner
Thank you Al. These really are a great type of flange that not many paisley know about. Has saved me a lot of time and homeowners a lot of money. Plus it is a quality fix.
This is the second one for the basement bat. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxOuLt8IL_GxhhaK8DBuKEL-zV0UJVpWZn , works great
Super helpful brother! Thanks for the video. I didn’t want to be hammering or chiseling old Abs like I saw in other tutorials. This looks to be by far the best method I have seen so far.
That is awesome. Thank you for watching. I have more flange videos to make, but have not had to do one in awhile. I hope I can help again.
@@ThatFixItGuy
Was that foundation you did this flange repair on . Also we're the silver screws for flange also for concrete
Wow! I didn't even know that they make a flange that fits over the old union! Thanks, you cured my headache! Hopefully the box stores carry one.
I usually get them at the depot. Some times the boxes are all jacked up. Grab a elbow and just start trying different ones if you can’t find one. Hope we go you hooked up.
Many thanks. I just used a Danco Hydroseat toilet flange to mount over my existing flange, which was bent and rotated 90 degrees to correct, because I didn't know how to remove the existing flange. Your method looks great. Really appreciate it.
I’ve wondered about the hydro seat flange set up. Did you find it easy to install?
@@ThatFixItGuy Yes, I attached mine directly to the floor so the flange top sits 3/8" above the floor. The toilet neck went in to it easily and so far no leaks.
Thank is great to hear thanks Nathan.
Thanks, my friend. I have had a bit of a hassle with replacing my closet flange. When I pulled the old 40 year old toilet, I could see there was a rusty, bent metal ring with red flaking paint. I cut this metal away, went to the store for a new two piece screw together flange, which they didn't have. So I bought a few tools to get the old PVC fitting out and a new PVC flange ring in. Well, I spent close to 5 hours last Sunday with a cold chisel busting away a bunch of hard concrete so the new PVC flange would sit down closer to level with the floor surface. It is about 1/4" above floor. I used a Fluidmaster 7530 blue rubber seal to get us back in business for a few days till I can screw the flange to the concrete. I'm tempted to just poly adhesive the business in place and forget the screws. I can reuse the blue seal. I hate plumbing projects. They always turn south when I hope otherwise. Thanks for showing what I pretty much did. Bob
That blue seal is reusable as far as I know. Over read about them, thought about using one, but never have.
@@ThatFixItGuy I hope to find a pack of Tapcon blue screws and two or three concrete drill bits to anchor this flange to the floor so I can secure the bowl to the floor. My take away from all you guys showing "how to" vids is almost every situation is different. Once you get the flange slightly above the finished floor, the seal will hold and not leak. I think wax is from 30 to 50 years ago. I have called up a couple plumbing outfits, and while they can't do the job for me without trying for a bank loan to pay their labor fee, they think that blue Fluidmaster should work well. Thanks and Cheers, Bob
Excellent video! One of the most articulately explaned videos i've seen!
Thank you very much for the wonderful comments! We hope to help you again!
That was helpful. Now I have to go back to the hardware store for the 3rd time but at least I know what I'm doing lol. Thanks!
Well I hope the third time was a charm. Let me know how it goes.
Excellently done and demonstrated, very professional 👏 thanks a lot. I can do it now.
Your welcome. So glad we could help.
As thorough as my borough....great content and tutorial. Bravo!
Thank you for the kind words! Hope we can help again and Happy New Year!
Thank you for the demonstration. Great explanation.
Thank you for helping me with my exact situation! The only difference with is I have to cut the Spicket out of a elbow instead of straight pipe. Thanks my friend!
I love that we were able to you out! Awesome that you are tackling this as well! Not a bad job but can seem daunting.
Thank you so much! Made it easy for a first time DYI flange removal and reinstall!
Glad it helped you out. Please consider sharing so we can help others. Thank you
Thanks for the tips Brian! I like the large screw driver - new tool for my tool box!
Sweet! New tools are always fun. Thank you for watching.
Great video, you saved me a lot of time in my project
That is great to hear. So glad this helped you out.
They make it look easy
It is much easier than some of the alternate methods out there. With the right tools it is a smoother job.
ABSOLUTE GENIUS! EXACTLY WHAT I WAS LOOKING FOR.
That is great to here. Hope we can help again.
Well done! Going into my library!
So glad this could help you out. Please subscribe, share and help us grow. Thank you.
@@ThatFixItGuy Will do, and have.
The tutorial is greatly appreciated your a beast. Subbed can't wait to see more projects.
Thank you and glad this helped.
Nice tips brother i appreciate you passing on your knowledge on this matter 👍
Your welcome. So glad we could help
Thank you your clear instructions 😊
This should have a million views
Thank you for watching and the kind words. Please share it! Maybe one day it will get to a million!
Perfect tutorial! Thanks!
Your welcome! I hope it helped and I hope we can help again.
Great video my guy 👍🏾
Appreciate it. So glad we could help. Hope we can help again.
Thanks that was very helpful.
Awesome! So glad that it helped. Hope we can help again.
I signed in just to give you a thumbs up and subscribe. I’ve been doing construction for a long time and never once did. I know you could do this with a new flange. You definitely made my day! Excited to try it today.
Great I enjoy your video’s keep up the good work 👍
Thank you!
Thank you man that really give me a very good idea thanks for the video make more
Good job...Never seen that type of flange..Thanks. Al
Thank you for check out the video Al. We would love to have you keep coming back.
Thank you!
Your very welcome. Thanks for watching.
Great job bro! 👍 If you can fix it.... 🤪
Thank you. I believe anyone can do what I do. They just have not learned how to do it yet.
Nicely done
nice video but i woulden't what to use those flanges with the metal rings. i use the solid plastic ones
As far as I know they don’t make that specific flange in straight plastic. I have only ever found it at one place as well. But I totally understand. If I could I would.
Thank you for your video
Your welcome! Thank you for watching and hope we can help again.
Really great video (good lighting, camera angle, and audio)!
I found this because I’m in the process of renovating my bathroom, and was trying to figure out how to replace my ABS toilet flange (it’s one like this where the metal outside ring can rotate, which I now know is called a spigot style flange).
My question is, for the flange you removed, was it glued inside of the elbow, and the new flange you put on glued to the outside of the elbow?
Thank you and I'm glad you like the video and find it useful. So you may not end up using this type of flange. There are many different versions of PVc/ABS plastic flanges with metal rings.
Yes, I used this spigot version because I cut out a 3" inside flange and needed to go to the outside of of the old flange. or elbow. This was the easiest way to make a quality flange replacement. I have only been able to find that certain flange at Home Depot. It have saved me and customers lots of work many times.
When you get to the point you are ready to fix the flange shoot me a picture if you like. ufix247@gmail.com
@@ThatFixItGuy I just wanted to follow up and say that thanks to you, I was able to replace the 30 year old toilet flange with a new one that fit perfectly over the outside of the 3” elbow that the previous flange was glued inside of.
Home Depot had the flange that fit on the outside of the 3” elbow. I cleaned and glued it in place, and then ran some more ABS glue around the inside once installed like you showed in the video.
From a first time home-owner, thanks again!
Thanks really good videos
Didn't know they mad a flange that went over a hub. Interesting.
Yeah they are a big time saver.
OK first, thank you for ALL your videos. I'm pretty confident in my reno skills but I'll admit, the bathroom on this 1965 stick built is teaching me LOTS. Question, when the house has settled and concrete (tile floor from 65) plus sub is deteriorating, what's the best way to build it back up so my flange replacement can grab something? I've got a good inch n half void on one side of drain pipe. (BTW the drill trick works wonders on lead)
If you can email me a couple of pictures or Facebook me a couple that would be great. I’m happy to try and help.
I really like your video, but I want to know if it’s also fit in cast and lead pipe. Thanks
I use something different for cast iron pipe. This is for ABS pipe. You could get the same fitting in pvc if that’s the pipe you have.
I really enjoyed your well explained video. I am about to remove my old rusted toilet flange. I am not sure mine is the same as your or not. Can I send you some pictures?
For sure email me.
got any videos on taking out a lead toilet flange with three 1 1/2 inch pipes going into it then going into cast iron ? just have to take that mess out and replace it with pvc connecting to threaded brass pipes running to kitchen sink bathroom sink and shower
Oh man. Sound like you are in a job!!
@@ThatFixItGuy yeah my own house crazy 1950 plumbing see if you can put every kind of pipe in one plumbing system
Awesome job, i think i am calling a plumber...lol
I totally get it. Thanks for watching.
So question. Is it necessary to build up the floor around it? I don't have anything to screw the flange into. It's just open. Someone suggested to use concrete, but when I think about it, there is nothing to hold its weight up. I'm thinking that flange may be my answer.
Please give some suggestions!
Thanks
That's a pretty cool idea. Except what about the next guy in twenty years when they have to replace that.. They are really screwed.
It can be done with a socket saver pretty easy. When I get a chance I will show how to do that as well. Thanks for watching.
About the screws you used to secure the flange to the floor ? My floor is concrete and concrete is in bad condition. Any fix for my problem ?
Your going to want to use concrete screws. If the Crete is bad I would do a little patch and then put the screws in.
That metal flange is gonna rush out just like the old one did should have used a solid plastic flange
I know. I like a plastic flange as well, but sometimes you gotta go with what I’d available.
Hey that fix-it guy - Question? How do you cut off the type that is 4" pipe straight up with a metal ring around the top, but you cannot see the inside pipe? Thanks
Tony
great question. I have not ran into one in a little bit. I have been wanting to find one so I could show my process. I use what is called a socket saver. amzn.to/3bqp9jY
make sure you put something down on the drain to catch the plastic pieces. sometimes you will have to use a inside plastic pipe cutter amzn.to/3sdBEW2 first like I to make sure the socket saver lines up correctly before you can use it.. Does this make sense?
@@ThatFixItGuy nope, mine is a 4" ID piece of pipe, about 14" long, with the metal flange ring secured to the top of it . That piece goes down below the floor and glues into an ABS elbow, and the ring then sits on top of the floor. That old floor is about 1-3/4" below the new floor, so i want to get that ring off and trim the top of the pipe so i have a 4" pipe to glue an extra long flange down into. Ever seen a 4" ID ABS with a ring on top - no other pipe inside it. I was gonna try to just cut off that ring and it seems like Id have a 4" pipe - but id need an extra long flange to glue down into it. Ideas? The standard 3x4's arent quite long enough to get a good glue grip inside that 4", plus Ive never cut off the top of one of these - ?????
Tony
can you Email me a picture of that. I may be able to help you better with putting some eyes on it. ufix247@gmail.com
@That Fix It Guy curious to know the fix for this. Mine is also straight pipe, 4" ID with metal ring molded together with lead. Well, it was welded with lead until I took my drill to it lol
When you pushed down the red/new flange, did you align 9 and 3' O Clocks for the bolts?
After the fact I did. Before I screwed it to the floor. That metal rings spins as well depending to the type of flange you buy.
havent seen that spigot flange in canada
bill edgecombe I found them a Home Depot. You can order online as well. I stumbled across them while looking for a different Abs flange and noticed that it fit perfect of the hub of a 3” fitting. I would always carry a couple on my truck after that. An easy non intrusive way to replace a flange. Thanks for checking out the video.
@@ThatFixItGuy thanks ill h ave a look
So are you starting with a 3 inch pipe that has a hub over it and the total width is 4"
I feel like if I added measurements to that it would start confusing people.
The 3” spigot flange they sell at Home Depot is an in between size that fits over the hub. I 4 in flange is too big.
Great video. I think this is exactly my situation, but can you confirm?? It would be so helpful if while talking through the repair you would state the pipe and flange sizes and i.d./o.d. I have a 3" i.d. PVC drain pipe with 3x4 flange over the outside of that. Flange is badly broken and at wrong height for my new floor so really needs to be replaced, but it's solvent welded... I've seen people cutting and prying and heating and peeling, but it does not really seem promising. Is this a solution for me? I think if I cut it flush, my pipe plus flange remains would be 4" o.d. and a 4" spigot flange would be 4" i.d. that would slip over the top? If so, well damn, that would be amazing. If not, any suggestions for my situation?
I totally think this will work for you. I have never took the OD of a hub of a fitting but you are the second person to ask so I think I should do a video on it. It could be very helpful.
The pipe size in this was 3” as well. I bet this will work for you. I stumbled on that spigot flange at Home Depot by grabbing a 3” 90 and and that 3” spigot flange fit over the hub.
Quickest thing I can think to do is go to the flange section at the store grab your flange that is in there now and find one that fits over it and will work. I hope this helps.
Cool yeah I stared at it some more after posting my question, and I think it's gonna work too... picking up the flange today, will report on my findings. Thanks for responding! =)
I wish I could have got to you fast! I try! Good luck and please reach out if you have a question!
I took a break from this and started tiling my floor. Found the 4" spigot flange, and it's sooooooooo close to working, but not quite. The i.d. of the flange is, as would be expected, 4" exactly. I was hoping to fit this over the remains of a 3x4 flange that is solvent welded over a 3" pvc - I really thought the o.d. of that was 4" and I was in business, but it looks to be 1/16" bigger than 4". fml Any suggestions? Maybe I can just file off the difference, but if not, my plan B is to cut my 3" drain pipe below the existing flange remains, add a coupling and a couple inches of new 3" pipe, and go back to a 3x4 flange on the outside. Any reason not to do that? I don't love the idea of a coupling in the middle of a toilet drain line but I s'pose it doesn't really matter?
About 7 years ago, one of the toilet flange was broken to one small piece. So, I attached it by using super glue. It has been working since then.
Hello, how can you fix a cracked pipe when trying to place the flange?
Is it cracked cast Iron? How bad is it? Do you have access below? Can you send me some pictures of the issue? Facebook or email works if so.
@@ThatFixItGuy yes definitely can send you pics tomorrow, is your facebook the same?
Yes it is.
Is there a spigot flange to fit over a 4" hub?
I do believe there is.
Why glue when it's a part that's meant to be replaced?
You could put a repair ring on it but it is not that same.
Do you know the part number or barcode for the flange?
Oatey 4in ABS Spigot fit closet flange with plastic ring
Upc: 038753435862
Part# 43586
I just bought on so I happened to have all the details. Good timing.
The explanation looks good, but he does not wear gloves and does not measure consequences.
What? I had gloves on when gloves were needed. I’m not trying to get the poo on me.
To think the other day I was crawling back and forth replacing the entire thing...
Oh man! I'm not a fan of the crawl either! I have a couple different ways of doing these from up top so I don't have to get in the crawl. Sometimes it is unavoidable, but I really try not to get in there.
😉👍
Patrick Galla thank you!
👍
I hope it helped!
Only used glue to hold it down....
Not good at all
Yeah they did not do the best job on that at all! Thank you for watching.
Maybe dont block what your doing ao we can see. Thanks for wasting both our time!
Your welcome! Hope we can do it again soon!
Spigot would be the outside diameter of the pipe you’re tying on to. The flange is actually a “socket end”
It is the socket end, but that one box that has these particular flanges in it say spigot. I don't know why. I just know it works.
@@ThatFixItGuy I appreciate you showing various replacements/repairs. There’s many ways. I’m a plumber of 20 years so I can appreciate that.
Thank you Otis! I appreciate your comments as well! Any suggestions are appreciated on this channel always!
@@ThatFixItGuy It is called a spigot because it fits inside the hub (or socket) of a 4 inch fitting. The part is called a "4in ABS Spigot fit closet flange".
Repair flange would have been done and toilet reset in 20 minutes
It is true, I will show that repair at some point as well. Thank you for watching.