@@chadwin Not yet bought, at first need to sell my bmpcc6k pro) But from specs which I see, it's definitely I need to try, as it is a poor mans komodo. With 5K I can buy all the accessories which I need. On paper I have perfect rig accessories which includes interchangeable PL, LPL,EF soon also E mark II mounts, top and side handle with record button and etc. Good is that newest model comes with it's own 5" 1000nits monitor and with native V mount plate. It records as for now only ProRes but with firmware upgrade it will be able to record ProResRaw & Braw externally and it's FF)) Make some research Chad, maybe you will like it and If you want me to send you the list of items which I mentioned above, just let me know how to send it to you
@@ciinelog Yeah, it sounds like you have a really good plan in place for making the Z cam work well for you! It seems like a really great camera. If I end up ever getting one, I might need that parts list! haha
oh that's interesting. so 8v barrel out to a USB-C connection on the camera? I've never seen a barrel to USBC cable before, but I bet it might exist! i'll have to look more into it
These barrel-to-dummy-battery cables are the exact reason why Sony doesn't approve dummy batteries. The problem is if the end user plugs the barrel jack into the wrong voltage with an unregulated dummy battery you will fry your camera. So the lesson learned is: #1 pay attention to what you are doing, or #2 don't buy the cheapest dummy battery, but a regulated one if you want some safety built-in. 8v is correct, if you accidentally plug the camera in 12v or 15v bad things can happen to your camera.
Hi Chadwin, interesting build. I'm new to videography, self taught and keen to learn, so subscribed. I do something very similar with many of these same parts. My SR half cage doesn't have the top 15mm rail though, that cage seems discontinued. I also use a USB- C trickle charge but have a 90 degree turn, so cable doesn't stick out so much. My V-mount is a cheaper Momon as SR version you are using is poor value IMO. If I'm using a manual focus pull then I'll attach a Tilta focus wheel to twin lower 15mm rails. Yet to explore an assistant focus pulling using something like Tilta remote kit. I have yet to go with a separate wireless monitor and transmitter either - what models do you recommend? I sold my 16-35mm GM and bought the smaller 16-35 PZ, but that's limited to f4. I will probably buy the mkii GM in due course - I'm just waiting for prices to ease. I also use Sony primes - 20, 24, 35, 50 and 85, if I want a smaller/ faster setup as these go to f1.4 or f1.8 for 20 and 85mm. As Sony glass, focus breathing compensation is supported now on FX3 with firmware 3.0. Auto AF is pretty good on Sony rigs, so manual focus is really for 'artistic choices'. For greater versatility I will forgo the primes and occasionally use a 24-70 GM mk ii, but that's heavier, bulkier and limited to f2.8. The Tilta Mirage matte box is another useful option as it can provide motorised VND 1-9 stops, albeit using cine 4x5.65 fixed NDs is more accurate for controlled lighting setups. I'm also experimenting with shoulder mount rigging but issue I'm currently attempting to overcome is how to monitor well and keep centre of gravity balanced over shoulder. It really needs a separate electronic viewfinder (EVF) - typically expensive or compromised. Lots of options and problems to address, but a lot of flexibility in rig tuning with FX3. For gimbal use I think a lighter setup is better, but Im still experimenting there too, using a Ronin R3. One concern is outdoor use in wet weather. What would you recommend for rain protection? My current solution is not to use in wet - I'm an amateur, so not forced to do client work in potentially adverse outdoor conditions. Good rain covers are of interest. I may end up making a custom cover, but it's a lot easier and quicker to just buy a good one, but yet to explore that arena. For multi cam use or avoiding cabling sound to camera, I'm experimenting using TC via Sony's new timecode cable and a Deity TC-1 timecode box. A 2nd TC-1 is attached to jam a good quality field recorder (Sound Devices MixPre 6ii). But sound, HQ mikes, booming, lavs etc is another whole area of complexity. This all adds up in terms of expense - it's proving to be an indulgent hobby, but I'm determined to teach myself (theory and practice) how to shoot video to a high aesthetic and technical level. Not withstanding any of above though, I'm leaning that good videography/cinematography is less about technology and pretty B-roll. Good audio and lighting are important too. But, most important of all is arguably storytelling, a good script, tight editing etc. I know I have much more to learn and a lot more practice is needed to hone my skills. I'm fortunate to be able to afford nice kit, but realise it takes time and practice to improve one's real capabilities and skills - not just money and shiny new kit.
Hey Chadwin! Great video. Purchased everything you recommended and am building out the same rig. Everything arrived, however I noticed the SmallRig Cage you listed is slightly different from the one in the video. Will I be able to achieve the same results with the cage you listed? Thank you!
Hi first off, thank you so much for the video, it was very helpful. Second, can you use Sony Fx3 with Black Magic Cameras? do you think there will be an issue with imaging.
Hey thanks for watching!! Yeah, you definitely could match both cameras if you shoot in LOG and BRAW. It won’t be perfect but would work. Here’s a video I did with the A7siii which has nearly identical image, side by side with BMPCC th-cam.com/video/v5cgCgmXkxE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=f_zr4nwT7S-1-a4i
Hey man! If you do any photography professionally, I’d probably get the A7RV because it’s way higher megapixel and has a viewfinder. The FX3 is perfect for video, but I wouldn’t use it for photography. I only take some pictures with it, but not frequently.
it depends on how much continuous filming you're doing, vs turning it on and off for shots throughout the day. It last about 4-6 hours depending on how much you're filming.
Thanks! I’ve consider getting the RED Komodo so many times, but can never justify spending that much on the base camera, but still needing to spend thousands more to get it working for me with audio inputs and ND filter drop ins. Also the AF isn’t great still.
@@chadwin Yes I understand it's very pricey, as I also can't afford to spend above 10K to get fully rigged, but it's our beloved RED)) one day we will own it
@@ciinelog haha yeah! There’s something about the idea of just owning a RED that’s enticing. They’ve done a great job marketing it and making it cool. It’s like the Tesla of cameras. 😆
my question is, how do you focus with the monitor fliped in that position, and if you use manual focus then side handle loses its purpose. I just never understood this kind of rigs. ALSO, isnt monitor on the way to shotgun mic? How would you place shotgun there? You have to move monitor waaaay back.
it definitely depends on what i'm filming, but a lot of time i'm relying on autofocus and using the grips. but if i'm pulling focus manually, I'll switch out for my Tilta side focus grip
I jus recently ordered the FX3 what is the best method of storing the data. I have a couple of the SSD drives? is that an option. Or the v90 class memory cards ?
I always plug my monitor on D-tap port and it drains the battery so fast... How is the power through 8V for the Ninja V? Since the power consumption is between 10W and 20W, is it better this way?
Yeah, external monitors tend to be the biggest battery suck in general! Powering the Ninja V through 8v has been working well for me, no issues with it needing any more power and it's not draining super fast. Of course, the more accessories I plug in, including the camera, it all drains quicker. I still prefer using v-mounts though and just switching out one big battery every now and again.
yeah, with ProRes RAW you typically only have to base ISO options. i'm still on V1 firmware for my FX3 though cause I refuse to update, maybe it's that.
@@juanReyes-dw1sm haha yep. you can set the ISO as whatever you want. it's not locked to just the 2 different base ISO's. that's one reason i haven't updated my firmware...
That’s fair. There are definitely much cheaper cameras and setups out there that will work well. You’re right, with controlled lighting and a static subject, you don’t need great low light performance and AF as much.
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
🤔What camera rig should I do next??
Z Cam E2 F6 Pro )))
@@ciinelog that would be cool! I’ve still never had the chance to shoot with a Z Cam. Do you like it?
@@chadwin Not yet bought, at first need to sell my bmpcc6k pro) But from specs which I see, it's definitely I need to try, as it is a poor mans komodo. With 5K I can buy all the accessories which I need. On paper I have perfect rig accessories which includes interchangeable PL, LPL,EF soon also E mark II mounts, top and side handle with record button and etc. Good is that newest model comes with it's own 5" 1000nits monitor and with native V mount plate. It records as for now only ProRes but with firmware upgrade it will be able to record ProResRaw & Braw externally and it's FF)) Make some research Chad, maybe you will like it and If you want me to send you the list of items which I mentioned above, just let me know how to send it to you
@@ciinelog Yeah, it sounds like you have a really good plan in place for making the Z cam work well for you! It seems like a really great camera. If I end up ever getting one, I might need that parts list! haha
Canon R7 rig
Hey Chadwin，big thanks for using these three products from SmallRig to build the Sony FX3 into a Studio Camera Rig, great video!👍👍
Of course! Thanks for making awesome camera rigging parts! I've been buying them for almost a decade now and they've always been great quality.
best video I have found for fx3 rig
Fortnite knock sound effect for broken handle got me lol
I read somewhere that you can use the barrel output rather than the D-tap for Sony cameras and that will give it the proper amount of power.
oh that's interesting. so 8v barrel out to a USB-C connection on the camera? I've never seen a barrel to USBC cable before, but I bet it might exist! i'll have to look more into it
@@chadwin no no, to dummy battery. Smallrig sells one.
These barrel-to-dummy-battery cables are the exact reason why Sony doesn't approve dummy batteries. The problem is if the end user plugs the barrel jack into the wrong voltage with an unregulated dummy battery you will fry your camera. So the lesson learned is: #1 pay attention to what you are doing, or #2 don't buy the cheapest dummy battery, but a regulated one if you want some safety built-in. 8v is correct, if you accidentally plug the camera in 12v or 15v bad things can happen to your camera.
Hi Chadwin, interesting build. I'm new to videography, self taught and keen to learn, so subscribed.
I do something very similar with many of these same parts. My SR half cage doesn't have the top 15mm rail though, that cage seems discontinued. I also use a USB- C trickle charge but have a 90 degree turn, so cable doesn't stick out so much. My V-mount is a cheaper Momon as SR version you are using is poor value IMO. If I'm using a manual focus pull then I'll attach a Tilta focus wheel to twin lower 15mm rails. Yet to explore an assistant focus pulling using something like Tilta remote kit.
I have yet to go with a separate wireless monitor and transmitter either - what models do you recommend?
I sold my 16-35mm GM and bought the smaller 16-35 PZ, but that's limited to f4. I will probably buy the mkii GM in due course - I'm just waiting for prices to ease.
I also use Sony primes - 20, 24, 35, 50 and 85, if I want a smaller/ faster setup as these go to f1.4 or f1.8 for 20 and 85mm. As Sony glass, focus breathing compensation is supported now on FX3 with firmware 3.0. Auto AF is pretty good on Sony rigs, so manual focus is really for 'artistic choices'. For greater versatility I will forgo the primes and occasionally use a 24-70 GM mk ii, but that's heavier, bulkier and limited to f2.8.
The Tilta Mirage matte box is another useful option as it can provide motorised VND 1-9 stops, albeit using cine 4x5.65 fixed NDs is more accurate for controlled lighting setups.
I'm also experimenting with shoulder mount rigging but issue I'm currently attempting to overcome is how to monitor well and keep centre of gravity balanced over shoulder. It really needs a separate electronic viewfinder (EVF) - typically expensive or compromised. Lots of options and problems to address, but a lot of flexibility in rig tuning with FX3.
For gimbal use I think a lighter setup is better, but Im still experimenting there too, using a Ronin R3.
One concern is outdoor use in wet weather. What would you recommend for rain protection? My current solution is not to use in wet - I'm an amateur, so not forced to do client work in potentially adverse outdoor conditions. Good rain covers are of interest. I may end up making a custom cover, but it's a lot easier and quicker to just buy a good one, but yet to explore that arena.
For multi cam use or avoiding cabling sound to camera, I'm experimenting using TC via Sony's new timecode cable and a Deity TC-1 timecode box. A 2nd TC-1 is attached to jam a good quality field recorder (Sound Devices MixPre 6ii). But sound, HQ mikes, booming, lavs etc is another whole area of complexity.
This all adds up in terms of expense - it's proving to be an indulgent hobby, but I'm determined to teach myself (theory and practice) how to shoot video to a high aesthetic and technical level.
Not withstanding any of above though, I'm leaning that good videography/cinematography is less about technology and pretty B-roll. Good audio and lighting are important too. But, most important of all is arguably storytelling, a good script, tight editing etc.
I know I have much more to learn and a lot more practice is needed to hone my skills. I'm fortunate to be able to afford nice kit, but realise it takes time and practice to improve one's real capabilities and skills - not just money and shiny new kit.
Hey Chadwin, another awesome video. How might you configure this rig differently when using the SmallHD Cine 5 with an XLR shotgun mic on the handle?
That is beautiful
thanks! hopefully it helps with your own rig
Just wondering how much the camera plus the entire rig weights?
Hey Chadwin! Great video. Purchased everything you recommended and am building out the same rig. Everything arrived, however I noticed the SmallRig Cage you listed is slightly different from the one in the video. Will I be able to achieve the same results with the cage you listed? Thank you!
I have the same question @chadwin
where do you plug the handle grip in since it has a record button. should be usb correct?
Great video, thanks
hey thanks for watching!
Hi first off, thank you so much for the video, it was very helpful. Second, can you use Sony Fx3 with Black Magic Cameras? do you think there will be an issue with imaging.
Hey thanks for watching!! Yeah, you definitely could match both cameras if you shoot in LOG and BRAW. It won’t be perfect but would work. Here’s a video I did with the A7siii which has nearly identical image, side by side with BMPCC th-cam.com/video/v5cgCgmXkxE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=f_zr4nwT7S-1-a4i
Hi bro! Should I buy Fx3 or a7rV ? I shot 70% for film and 30% for photo. Thanks you!
Hey man! If you do any photography professionally, I’d probably get the A7RV because it’s way higher megapixel and has a viewfinder. The FX3 is perfect for video, but I wouldn’t use it for photography. I only take some pictures with it, but not frequently.
A7IV better than both options.
@@frankfeng2701 Highly dependable of your usecase.
how long does this battery last with this setup when actually filming?
it depends on how much continuous filming you're doing, vs turning it on and off for shots throughout the day. It last about 4-6 hours depending on how much you're filming.
nice rig, what's gonna be your next camera? Z cam es f6 pro, kinefinity or komodo x?))
Thanks! I’ve consider getting the RED Komodo so many times, but can never justify spending that much on the base camera, but still needing to spend thousands more to get it working for me with audio inputs and ND filter drop ins. Also the AF isn’t great still.
@@chadwin Yes I understand it's very pricey, as I also can't afford to spend above 10K to get fully rigged, but it's our beloved RED)) one day we will own it
@@ciinelog haha yeah! There’s something about the idea of just owning a RED that’s enticing. They’ve done a great job marketing it and making it cool. It’s like the Tesla of cameras. 😆
@@chadwin Agree 😁
my question is, how do you focus with the monitor fliped in that position, and if you use manual focus then side handle loses its purpose. I just never understood this kind of rigs. ALSO, isnt monitor on the way to shotgun mic? How would you place shotgun there? You have to move monitor waaaay back.
it definitely depends on what i'm filming, but a lot of time i'm relying on autofocus and using the grips. but if i'm pulling focus manually, I'll switch out for my Tilta side focus grip
how long time atomos ninja 5 and fx3 work with smallrig 99 ? and what name cable at 9:53 ?
idk if its me nut D-Tap to Barrel Connector is not the same cable you use for the hollyland. Can you tell me the name of that cable?
I jus recently ordered the FX3 what is the best method of storing the data. I have a couple of the SSD drives? is that an option. Or the v90 class memory cards ?
Why do camera rigs look like cat in the hat stacked it up 😅 looks cool though
can RS3 gimbal handle this weight?
no. it's too heave and awkward to balance. you'd have to remove nearly everything.
6:55 what is that? I can not find it in the links under the video.
I always plug my monitor on D-tap port and it drains the battery so fast...
How is the power through 8V for the Ninja V?
Since the power consumption is between 10W and 20W, is it better this way?
Yeah, external monitors tend to be the biggest battery suck in general! Powering the Ninja V through 8v has been working well for me, no issues with it needing any more power and it's not draining super fast.
Of course, the more accessories I plug in, including the camera, it all drains quicker. I still prefer using v-mounts though and just switching out one big battery every now and again.
If you’re using pro res raw. How did you get it to change its native base iso?
yeah, with ProRes RAW you typically only have to base ISO options. i'm still on V1 firmware for my FX3 though cause I refuse to update, maybe it's that.
@@chadwin wait so you can manually change your iso on movie mode, on V1 firmware?
@@juanReyes-dw1sm haha yep. you can set the ISO as whatever you want. it's not locked to just the 2 different base ISO's. that's one reason i haven't updated my firmware...
@@chadwindang that is amazing. I hate that they locked it.
@@chadwin thank you for replying btw! 🙏🏽
is there going to be a 2024 or 2025 of this video?
I subscribed
what brand is the wireless transmitter
Hollyland
Where is the microphone?
I didn’t add one because when I’m shooting in studio, I usually plug in an XLR boom mic or a lav. Shotgun mic audio is never any good
For studio cinema rigs, there are better and cheaper options since autofocus and lowlight are usually not needed.
That’s fair. There are definitely much cheaper cameras and setups out there that will work well. You’re right, with controlled lighting and a static subject, you don’t need great low light performance and AF as much.
@@chadwin I'll take this as an FX30 setup 😅
Chad, thanks extremely much for this helpful vid for this kid. And the NATO Rail, yes, I think that’s another reason Ukraine wants to join NATO. 😉