She is always interested in what I’m doing. My oldest daughter is starting auto body repair at her high school tech center so we’ll see if she has any interest when I start on the cab.
Hey Paul! I stumbled on your channel as i am getting ready to start my 77 C10 project for my channel. I've been binge watching your video ever since i got home from work. Great work and looking forward to the finished product!
@ 11:13 " not sure whats going on with the camera" If your shop has fluorescent lighting, the video camera shutter sync is "seeing" the 60 hz cycle of the bulb turning on and off. Thats why you see what appears to be waves of light and dark areas moving acrost the video screen.
You building a sweet ride and doing work of a True Blue Fabricator. I had a duel exhaust put on my 93 K1500 Blazer by a guy I thought did work like you, this guy had a Muffler Shop for years but retired and was doing it for extra cash, but it turned out a scab job. Tailpipes were off so bad I had to stop walking up from behind my truck as I would get in a bad mood looking at it. Then when he did fix it the drivers side was solid tight and the passenger side was flopping loose. $ $1.300 Canadian plus another $200 to get the hangers fixed properly. It’s not even stainless steel.
Been following your build for awhile. Brothers truck makes a kit for about $100 that allows you to run the exhaust thru the support for the rear track bars if you ever decide to extend that and want to keep it off the ground.
Yep I’ve seen those. I’m still considering putting those in so I have flexibility in the future. I’m also considering swapping out the trailing arm crossmember and switching to tubular trailing arms down the road and that has cutouts built into it.
Assuming this truck has been done and driving for a while, can you give an update on how the cab sound is with the tips exiting under the truck? Does it drone inside the cab?
I like the way you modified your original idea. I would have used both flex units as then you could mount the exhaust in a more sturdy manner than the factory style brackets and it looks neat when someone takes the trouble to have a more stable exhaust pipe (in my opinion). Overall a very nice and clean install.
Paul nice job on your C10, been watching here and there. Well wanted to tell you that your exhaust is going to be load and drone in the cab. My exhaust is about a foot longer. And when driving is very load inside and hard to hear the radio.. so I am thinking of buying a exhaust kit and going to the back bumper area..
Haha you’re not wrong. Super clean, mandrel bent, tig welded - that’s a whole different ball game. Mig welded, flex pipe and space saving crossmember - easy. I said it lol
Was that stainless exhaust tubing you were using? How did you go about welding? Did you use a stainless flux core with a mix of gas? About to take on fabbing up my exhaust and want to try and figure out the best way to go about making the welds
Great info here , what is up with the music , I can listen to most anything but that noise is annoying, much too loud, Why does music volume increase and when you start talking the volume lowers ? , while trying to follow what you are doing , at least lower the volume , had to mute
Okay, I thought this was an exhaust build, not a transmission mount install. So why didn't you already have that done and then start the video on an exhaust building? Not a transmission mount and exhaust build
I've been watching your build for about two years. You do really good work. But I'm not sure what your objective is with the exhaust you just installed. Is it performance only or sound? With the setup you just installed, I think you are looking at extreme droning and loud exhaust noise in your cab. Mounting the mufflers under the cab and dumping the exhaust there is not the ideal location. You most likely will be installing sound deadening in your cab. That will help but not eliminate the droning or noise. Loud droning exhaust can really take the enjoyment out of your ride. From personal experience I have a suggestion. I was faced with the same low clearance exhaust dilemma. My project was a 1970 GMC longbed. I first started off with long tube headers and soon into my build I realized the long tube headers would not give the clearance I needed. One of my main objectives was a comfortable and quiet cab. I finally went with Headmen shorty headers (not block huggers). These headers allowed me to keep the exhaust system totally tucked up above the bottom of the frame. I went with the RideTech Strong Arm four link suspension. But doing that did not allow enough room to mount the mufflers I wanted to use under the bed and I wanted the exhaust to run completely to the rear of the truck. I had also installed an aluminum rear fuel tank mounted under the bed between the frame rails. With that tank installed there was not enough room for the exhaust to go over the rear axle without interfering with the fuel tank. So the exhaust crosses over the frame just before the frame rises to meet the bed floor. It then runs along the outside of frame, following it's shape to the rear of the truck. The mufflers are mounted to the rear of the tires tucked up between the rear body panel and the outside of the frame. The only part of the exhaust that can be see when looking at the side of the truck is where the exhaust tips down and exits just before the rear bumper. It sounds confuted, but actually looks good. Beside having a quiet cab I don't have the heat radiating from mufflers that would have been mounted under the cab. Now all of this is just a suggestion not a criticism. Good luck. Looking forward to a great looking truck when you are finished.
I appreciate the feedback. The long tubes came with the engine when I bought it so I’m working with what I have. I’m not too overly worried about drone or being too noisy - if I’m going on a long drive, I’ll take my daily. I looked at several different ways to route it including cutting reliefs in the crossmember but I like the simplicity for now. Nothing is permanent and I may hate it. But quiet and comfortable has never been the goal with this truck.
Complete lack of any back pressure. Should at least of ran em to the axle then dumped it. Also I can’t imagine the drone you’ll have dumped before the end of the cab even..
Anyone interested in 3" stainless exhaust pipe for really reasonable check out speed-engineering. Im not affiliated with them, but I just bought two 44" long 3" diameter stainless straight pipes and two 44" long 3" diameter stainless straight with a u bend for $126 shipped to my door.
The best part is having your kid learning in the background. Much respect bro. I love when my son has the opportunity to help.
She is always interested in what I’m doing. My oldest daughter is starting auto body repair at her high school tech center so we’ll see if she has any interest when I start on the cab.
Great video!
Not too much narration, just the job done with some cruisey music playing.
Nice.
Hey Paul! I stumbled on your channel as i am getting ready to start my 77 C10 project for my channel. I've been binge watching your video ever since i got home from work. Great work and looking forward to the finished product!
Awesome man!
Just found your channel. I see you are building a c10 as well. You have a great channel going here.Subscribed!
I would buy an install the trailing arm crossmember cut outs while you have the cab off just incase you want to run the exhaust out the back
@ 11:13 " not sure whats going on with the camera"
If your shop has fluorescent lighting, the video camera shutter sync is "seeing" the 60 hz cycle of the bulb turning on and off. Thats why you see what appears to be waves of light and dark areas moving acrost the video screen.
Awesome videos!! Thanks Paul! Keep it up.
You building a sweet ride and doing work of a True Blue Fabricator.
I had a duel exhaust put on my 93 K1500 Blazer by a guy I thought did work like you, this guy had a Muffler Shop for years but retired and was doing it for extra cash, but it turned out a scab job.
Tailpipes were off so bad I had to stop walking up from behind my truck as I would get in a bad mood looking at it. Then when he did fix it the drivers side was solid tight and the passenger side was flopping loose.
$ $1.300 Canadian plus another $200 to get the hangers fixed properly. It’s not even stainless steel.
That's going to be really loud, u might want to add some sound deadening mat to ur cab
Should sound really healthy!! Truck is looking really good!!
Been following your build for awhile. Brothers truck makes a kit for about $100 that allows you to run the exhaust thru the support for the rear track bars if you ever decide to extend that and want to keep it off the ground.
Yep I’ve seen those. I’m still considering putting those in so I have flexibility in the future. I’m also considering swapping out the trailing arm crossmember and switching to tubular trailing arms down the road and that has cutouts built into it.
Assuming this truck has been done and driving for a while, can you give an update on how the cab sound is with the tips exiting under the truck? Does it drone inside the cab?
It’s hard to tell from this angle. But if you are running a column shifter is it going to clear your O2 sensor?
Linkage will fit under it. It is close tho
I like the way you modified your original idea. I would have used both flex units as then you could mount the exhaust in a more sturdy manner than the factory style brackets and it looks neat when someone takes the trouble to have a more stable exhaust pipe (in my opinion). Overall a very nice and clean install.
Just a question what is the length of those turn down pipes I know they are 3” inlet but how long
great video!! i learned alot.those flex adapters are cool.never seen those before.may come in handy finishing the exhaust on my cj7.thanks
Love the videos!
Drill 3 in. Holes in that trailing arm cross member and dump at the rear axle?
Good luck getting your transmission out with that set up.
Who caught the ghost at 0:02 on the left side of the screen?!?!
Haha I never noticed that. Our house is 130 years old 🤷🏻♂️
That's right🙈👀
😮
Paul nice job on your C10, been watching here and there. Well wanted to tell you that your exhaust is going to be load and drone in the cab. My exhaust is about a foot longer. And when driving is very load inside and hard to hear the radio.. so I am thinking of buying a exhaust kit and going to the back bumper area..
You make building exhaust look easy! Local guy here says about $500 for mine if he does it. Might just tackle it myself if it's this easy.
Idk if easy is the right term haha. Just be patient and don’t be afraid to scrap a piece if it’s not exactly what you want.
@@paulkc10 easy is a more polite term term than, "well if he can do it..." lmao
Haha you’re not wrong. Super clean, mandrel bent, tig welded - that’s a whole different ball game. Mig welded, flex pipe and space saving crossmember - easy. I said it lol
My bolts didn't fit dirty dingo crossmember either.
Great product. Would have been better if the slots were bigger
One option would be to get set of mufflers the has an input to one side then center output?
You can get them that way straight from Black Widow.
Was that stainless exhaust tubing you were using? How did you go about welding? Did you use a stainless flux core with a mix of gas? About to take on fabbing up my exhaust and want to try and figure out the best way to go about making the welds
Awesome video, I plan on building my own exhaust as well. I think I’m going to go with a Y pipe and single exhaust out on my build.
That will be nice
What size piping
If you turn mufflers side ways you get less drone in cab
There is no drone with black widow mufflers
Where did you get those clamps?
That's going to be loud as hell inside dumped out under the cab.
It’s not
What X member is the original?
It’s from Performance Online
Cool thanks
Which model of black widow did you go with?
Race venom
Great info here , what is up with the music , I can listen to most anything
but that noise is annoying, much too loud,
Why does music volume increase and when you start talking the volume lowers ?
, while trying to follow what you are doing
, at least lower the volume , had to mute
Okay, I thought this was an exhaust build, not a transmission mount install. So why didn't you already have that done and then start the video on an exhaust building? Not a transmission mount and exhaust build
I've been watching your build for about two years. You do really good work. But I'm not sure what your objective is with the exhaust you just installed. Is it performance only or sound? With the setup you just installed, I think you are looking at extreme droning and loud exhaust noise in your cab. Mounting the mufflers under the cab and dumping the exhaust there is not the ideal location. You most likely will be installing sound deadening in your cab. That will help but not eliminate the droning or noise. Loud droning exhaust can really take the enjoyment out of your ride.
From personal experience I have a suggestion. I was faced with the same low clearance exhaust dilemma. My project was a 1970 GMC longbed. I first started off with long tube headers and soon into my build I realized the long tube headers would not give the clearance I needed. One of my main objectives was a comfortable and quiet cab. I finally went with Headmen shorty headers (not block huggers). These headers allowed me to keep the exhaust system totally tucked up above the bottom of the frame. I went with the RideTech Strong Arm four link suspension. But doing that did not allow enough room to mount the mufflers I wanted to use under the bed and I wanted the exhaust to run completely to the rear of the truck. I had also installed an aluminum rear fuel tank mounted under the bed between the frame rails. With that tank installed there was not enough room for the exhaust to go over the rear axle without interfering with the fuel tank. So the exhaust crosses over the frame just before the frame rises to meet the bed floor. It then runs along the outside of frame, following it's shape to the rear of the truck. The mufflers are mounted to the rear of the tires tucked up between the rear body panel and the outside of the frame. The only part of the exhaust that can be see when looking at the side of the truck is where the exhaust tips down and exits just before the rear bumper. It sounds confuted, but actually looks good. Beside having a quiet cab I don't have the heat radiating from mufflers that would have been mounted under the cab. Now all of this is just a suggestion not a criticism.
Good luck. Looking forward to a great looking truck when you are finished.
I appreciate the feedback.
The long tubes came with the engine when I bought it so I’m working with what I have. I’m not too overly worried about drone or being too noisy - if I’m going on a long drive, I’ll take my daily.
I looked at several different ways to route it including cutting reliefs in the crossmember but I like the simplicity for now.
Nothing is permanent and I may hate it. But quiet and comfortable has never been the goal with this truck.
Dumps = Bad idea.
Complete lack of any back pressure. Should at least of ran em to the axle then dumped it. Also I can’t imagine the drone you’ll have dumped before the end of the cab even..
Anyone interested in 3" stainless exhaust pipe for really reasonable check out speed-engineering. Im not affiliated with them, but I just bought two 44" long 3" diameter stainless straight pipes and two 44" long 3" diameter stainless straight with a u bend for $126 shipped to my door.