take it apart and install the spacer and you'll see it will spin freely and smooth. without the spacer you're binding the bearing that's why it's not spinning more then one turn on its own
Thanks for checkin out my vid. I am aware of that but that's how I want my cranks to spin. I like the cranks to stay in place for tricks once I leave the pedal. When the sleeves are installed sometimes they spin too easily no matter how much you tighten them down.
The spacer doesn't work on the old school bikes anyway it leaves the bearing cups sticking out a quarter inch 1/8 on each side so without the sleeve it's literally the same design as the old school bearing open ball bearings with cups no sleeves 🤙 And filing it down and/or cutting the sleeve then you enter into the hack job are and I'm not really down with that
If you're into the old school bikes you don't want advancement and you definitely don't want center pull brakes. You want and 80s era original. Dia Compe MX1000 brakes and a neck that ectends into the fork and is tightened with a wedge, and definitely no seats slammed down to the frame. Wtf is that all about?
Yes. American BB. And, 19mm or 22 mm is the diameter of your crank spindle that slides through the bearings. So, whatever size spindle you have or choose that comes with your cranks set, you need to make sure that you select the correct size American BB bearings. For example. You buy Redline Flight cranks that come with a 19mm spindle, you would buy an American BB for 19mm spindle. Or, you purchase new school Subrosa Bitchin cranks that come with a 22mm spindle, you would buy an American BB for a 22mm spindle.
One question I've got a 2002 mongoose hoop d that I want to get these for I was wanting to ask did you have to upgrade the pedals because the spinal was a different size or was the spinal hole the same size on the 3 peace the same as the original one peace?
Yes you have to get different pedals now. All one piece cranks take 1/2 pedals. All 3 piece cranks take a bigger 9/16 size pedal. As in 9/16 pedal spindles.
You can use the spindle bolts to add a bit of side loading to the bearings, making it so the pedals are not as free and stay in place for certain tricks.
Nice vid my man! I like the play by play, no good reason for anyone to blow up their install after watching this vid. And sleeve or no sleeve is a personal choice people, LoL! It’s his bike! WTH? My new flights are going in a my Sting I’ve had since 1982. I have the original flights but they are destroyed because when you are a kid you don’t take care of this stuff like we would still own it 40 years later! LoL!
And bigger washers used to secure sprocket? Via adaptor, should be flush otherwise side movement on the adapter. The screw helps, but should be flush so no side movement
It dont matter what year crankset you have. All you do is buy the right size bottom bracket bearings that takes the right size crank spindle. So, you have a American bottom bracket right? And what is your crank spindle size? 19mm or 22mm? Lets say your crank spindle is 19mm so you would buy a American Sealed Bottom Bracket for 19mm spindle.
Take note. There are 2 kinds of American BB’s. The old school kind are American. The newer school kind are called American Mid or just Mid. Mids are a little smaller.
I noticed when you put the arms on that the spindle didn't go to the exact end of the arms,bc mine are the same way.so you didn't have any problems with them like that?
It doesn't really matter as long as the spindle is set back at least an 1/8th of an inch or more from the arms so that the spindle bolts can pull the arms in tightly and secure them with out any loose play.
I install all my cranks this way. Never had a problem yet. As long as you dont tighten down the arms too tight you should be fine. You shouldnt tighten the arms down too tight anyway.
I know this is an old video hope I get a reply. Great video thank you. My question is.. it’s probably best to put the bearing in the cup first? I put the cups in first and now I’m having a hard time getting the bearing in. I’m just using a mallet and a piece of wood. I’m prob about to go to the store and get a pice of all thread.
Try greasing the inside of the cups and around the bearings really well then put a steel plate (or something harder than wood) over the bearings and tap it in with a hammer. The reason I say use a steel plate is because if you use something, softer like wood, it will absorb the force and wont be enough to drive them in. A rubber mallet also wont be hard enough to exert enough force. If all else fails the bike shop should be able to help you.
GenerationOfBmx Thanks for the reply. I didn’t read your message until after I attempted with the wood. Lol. Does it make more sense to pull out the cups and start over or does that ruin the integrity of the cups?
I installed these on my Kuwahara Laser Lite and the bottom brackets bearings just slipped right in and were very loose. Do you use cups on this install or just the sealed bearings provided in the kit?
If your frame has the large American Bottom Bracket you will need to put the bearings in the cups and press them in. If you have the American Mid Bottom Bracket you will press in the bearings only. So yes, it sounds like you have to use the cups for your frame. Sounds like its probably an American Bottom Bracket frame.
+generationofbmx Your cranks should spin better than that with the sealed bearing kit. The spacer sleeve you left out is there for a reason. It's to help keep the inner sealed bearing seats/races from being pushed too far inwards when you tighten down the crank arm bolts. Without the spacer sleeve in place you are exposing the sealed bearings to unwanted inward forces , which can lead to premature bearing/race wear.
Yeah, I understand that. My solution for now is to not tighten the axel bolts up too tight and I should be fine. I actually don't want the cranks to spin easily because I want them to stay in the position I left them in when I do a trick so that when I return to the bike they are where I left them. Many times when the cranks are installed with the sleeve they spin too easily and freely no matter how tight you lock down the axel bolts.
Dude, these are the new Redline cranks that Redline is still making. You can get them in chrome or black. I have both. The sprockets are not sold with the cranks. Not everyone who uses these cranks wants to use them with a Redline sprocket. Google Redline bmx cranks for sale and you will find these. They’re everywhere for around $150.00 bucks give or take a few. Jeez
Yes. If you have a American Bottom Bracket then get a Sealed American Bottom Bracket. Make sure you get the right size to match your crank spindle. EXAMPLE: If your crank spindle is 19mm then you would get a Sealed American Bottom Bracket for 19mm.
+Javier Otero The pegs are a new aluminum set I purchased off Ebay. Can't remember what they were but are just a cheap brand. They are 26 tpi threaded for 3/8 axel and I cut about an inch off of them to allow for weight savings.
I told a friend of mine what I was trying to do. He is a skilled trade in a machine shop and he made this for me using simple stuff laying around his shop. Its a simple setup that Works awesome. Thanks
With these frames the smallest you can go is a 30 something tooth sprocket. 36 I believe. Anything under that and the chain will rub up against the rear brake. I just wanted to keep this bike with what it would of had back then. A 44T
I suppose I should have but this video was more about the cranks than the bike. You can see this bike in my video about the 1" to 1 1/8 threadless headset conversion.
I have an appreciation for Opc's too but trust me, the bearings on those sets are just as much maintenance(if not more) than the sealed systems on 3 piece sets.
It was common in 1987 that Redline Flight cranks were put on the Haro Master. It was a very popular crankset for Freestyle bikes back in those days. Lastly, the tight setting I had these cranks set too was done to my specific liking for my Flatland riding. Before I go into a trick I set the cranks into a exact position so that when I return to the pedal it is there where I need it to be. Sometimes when a crank is more loose it has a tendency to rotate more out of my needed position. I have never had any issues with the way I install or set up my cranks.
Gotcha. I didn’t realize that they used those on freestyle. I thought those guys like one piece cranks with short arms (170?). I was into racing, I don’t know anything about that! Also it makes sense about having them tighter so they stay where ya put them. Makes total sense! Thanks bro.
Pro’s and cons to it i suppose. Bad thing about them on the lower chainstay is that it makes it difficult to run new school 25t sprockets because it causes the chain to rub on the brake arms.
@@generationofbmx yeah, putting a rim with cassette hub is pretty unworkable with that setup. Best you can really do with it is 30t sprocket and 13t freewheel( flip flop rear hub on rim). Oops, sorry... For a 24" rim that was the setup I used. Not sure about a 20". I don't own a 20" but the 24" are same type of thing except for gearing.
I wouldn't call this an old school bike I would call it a repop master Good bike but not old school I don't believe the old school bikes had cantilever brakes in the front
Yes, you are partially correct. Its a 1987 Haro Master with a conversion to 1 1/8 threadless headset. The conversion headset allows me to use the modern 1 1/8 new Haro Lineage stem. I used a threadless midschool Haro Megafork from the 90’s with the midschool front brake. And, the seat is a repop Dominator with a reopo aluminum seat post.
I dont build my bikes to the exact specs that they came from the factory. I am a rider and I build my bikes with the parts that suit my riding preferences. When we were kids, all the guys on my block liked these pedals so when I built this bike a few years ago I went with them as a throwback to the days of my youth.
@@generationofbmx that's cool.....like I said I have a 88 that's all stock with the 990 brakes and the peregrine 48s......the cromes mint. it's the coral color. what's this bike worth u think?
@@Shovelhead-Greg No! I haven’t put spacers in any of my three-piece Cranks sets, except for the very first set I ever put in, and I never have any problems with it. all of my riders right now currently have three piece cranks and none of them have the spacers in it and I’m doing just fine without it. Obviously you just don’t want to crank down the bolts too hard and over tighten anything but you shouldn’t do that anyway, whether you have a spacer in or not.
Wow a TH-cam video that isn’t loud, like the vibes, thanks for the help
Thanks, no problem.
Gotta love a quiet workshop
Ha ha! True that!
very cool, I just dug my old 87 Haro EST out from under my parents house. Im going to try to rebuild it.
take it apart and install the spacer and you'll see it will spin freely and smooth. without the spacer you're binding the bearing that's why it's not spinning more then one turn on its own
Thanks for checkin out my vid. I am aware of that but that's how I want my cranks to spin. I like the cranks to stay in place for tricks once I leave the pedal. When the sleeves are installed sometimes they spin too easily no matter how much you tighten them down.
The spacer doesn't work on the old school bikes anyway it leaves the bearing cups sticking out a quarter inch 1/8 on each side so without the sleeve it's literally the same design as the old school bearing open ball bearings with cups no sleeves 🤙 And filing it down and/or cutting the sleeve then you enter into the hack job are and I'm not really down with that
Some times you can’t help people, they have to learn the hard way, me personally I wouldn’t wanna bind my bearings.
3 piece cranks are for racing not freestyle
The sleeve is crap dosent fit old 91 420 so I left it out fark it
Excellent video showed everything in perfect detail..
Thanks! Glad it could be of help. Stay Rad
Fully explained on "how to" great job and thanks!!! Restore of my DB assault w/180 flight cranks in process
Great video. Thanks mate 👍
Cool man. No problem!
The bearings for my Redline cranks screw into my Skyway frame. It's a pretty nifty advancement.
Fully sick bro!
If you're into the old school bikes you don't want advancement and you definitely don't want center pull brakes. You want and 80s era original. Dia Compe MX1000 brakes and a neck that ectends into the fork and is tightened with a wedge, and definitely no seats slammed down to the frame. Wtf is that all about?
Good stuff. Thank you!
Thnx for checkin in
so an general R.L. osborne pro 86 hustler would be an american bottom bracket ? and what's the 19mm 22mm mean ??? thanks
Yes. American BB. And, 19mm or 22 mm is the diameter of your crank spindle that slides through the bearings. So, whatever size spindle you have or choose that comes with your cranks set, you need to make sure that you select the correct size American BB bearings. For example. You buy Redline Flight cranks that come with a 19mm spindle, you would buy an American BB for 19mm spindle. Or, you purchase new school Subrosa Bitchin cranks that come with a 22mm spindle, you would buy an American BB for a 22mm spindle.
One question I've got a 2002 mongoose hoop d that I want to get these for I was wanting to ask did you have to upgrade the pedals because the spinal was a different size or was the spinal hole the same size on the 3 peace the same as the original one peace?
Yes you have to get different pedals now. All one piece cranks take 1/2 pedals. All 3 piece cranks take a bigger 9/16 size pedal. As in 9/16 pedal spindles.
Or…if you really gotta keep your existing 1/2 pedals you can get pedal adapters for 1/2 to 9/16
@@generationofbmx I've never heard of pedal adapters lol
@@johnpaige8914 www.ebay.com/itm/325053955311?hash=item4baeb9bcef:g:BeYAAOSwSaJgAKkI&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4F8aBNaFraVwWxz5Is0xynjLqnd04SjOWZxcy9%2BizKv4moXggKqhUqIDromYKNTn10DoP94Q2rjkA%2F23M8CtIAPf7PhgZAhcrQ6OdEJOiDCI54EjQ6T3GAudcIcMEtpMPcGOxDKECG4SlcjKIUsWBaJBNXsxRqkdD%2B6Tsx%2FVJ6NeKDo91LaFgeqXInzkqis3rGuX%2FFXLGjLqAr9OJYpIDkQhiavaYp2%2BJe7IUFaUB%2FKDk4EKLFo8GEnQLK%2B7IeENEcgbRk4I%2BiCSp9at%2BvSqpvTfj6OkcyNrVUE0tNrJx94p%7Ctkp%3ABFBM7Pq1pI5i
@@generationofbmx I appreciate it, all the ones I was seeing fit 1/2 cranks and 9/16 pedals
Why would you not use the bearing spacer?
You can use the spindle bolts to add a bit of side loading to the bearings, making it so the pedals are not as free and stay in place for certain tricks.
Nice vid my man! I like the play by play, no good reason for anyone to blow up their install after watching this vid. And sleeve or no sleeve is a personal choice people, LoL! It’s his bike! WTH? My new flights are going in a my Sting I’ve had since 1982. I have the original flights but they are destroyed because when you are a kid you don’t take care of this stuff like we would still own it 40 years later! LoL!
Cool thanks!
Totally COOL, Thanx Bro for Your time in posting this...Double thumbs up!!!!
Thanks man!
And bigger washers used to secure sprocket? Via adaptor, should be flush otherwise side movement on the adapter. The screw helps, but should be flush so no side movement
Never had any side movement or issues with the way I installed this and I have 2 sets of these i stalled on 2 other bikes.
Sweet....thanks for that. Kuwahara is now complete.
Quick question how do I go about putting a 2020 3pc crankset sealed bbb on a 1985 diamondback hot streak
It dont matter what year crankset you have. All you do is buy the right size bottom bracket bearings that takes the right size crank spindle. So, you have a American bottom bracket right? And what is your crank spindle size? 19mm or 22mm? Lets say your crank spindle is 19mm so you would buy a American Sealed Bottom Bracket for 19mm spindle.
Take note. There are 2 kinds of American BB’s. The old school kind are American. The newer school kind are called American Mid or just Mid. Mids are a little smaller.
@@generationofbmx I've never actually replaced them and it seemed too easy..thought there would have some measuring involved thanks !
Its an old school frame. It has an American BB size.
Is that an 88 master you are working on ?
It’s the 87 Powder Blue Master.
What was the complete time to do this?
Maybe an hour or so but its something I dont do every day.
I noticed when you put the arms on that the spindle didn't go to the exact end of the arms,bc mine are the same way.so you didn't have any problems with them like that?
It doesn't really matter as long as the spindle is set back at least an 1/8th of an inch or more from the arms so that the spindle bolts can pull the arms in tightly and secure them with out any loose play.
I would love one of those haro masters but there so expensive!!!
About 5 or 6 years ago they were priced more reasonable but lately have gone way up in price. Its a difficult hobby to be in anymore.
Are these pretty light?
Not too bad. I would just call them A Typical for a set of cranks. If you’re an old-schooler you need to have a set in your arsenal. Grab them up.!
@@generationofbmx yeah I’d put them on my 600a. I’ve been debating. I got the sugino on there now
OMG! Please ppl don’t leave out the inner sleeve! You’ll destroy the bearings in no time!
I install all my cranks this way. Never had a problem yet. As long as you dont tighten down the arms too tight you should be fine. You shouldnt tighten the arms down too tight anyway.
@@generationofbmx ya you should or they will loosen up and start squeaking.
I know this is an old video hope I get a reply. Great video thank you. My question is.. it’s probably best to put the bearing in the cup first? I put the cups in first and now I’m having a hard time getting the bearing in. I’m just using a mallet and a piece of wood. I’m prob about to go to the store and get a pice of all thread.
Try greasing the inside of the cups and around the bearings really well then put a steel plate (or something harder than wood) over the bearings and tap it in with a hammer. The reason I say use a steel plate is because if you use something, softer like wood, it will absorb the force and wont be enough to drive them in. A rubber mallet also wont be hard enough to exert enough force. If all else fails the bike shop should be able to help you.
GenerationOfBmx Thanks for the reply. I didn’t read your message until after I attempted with the wood. Lol. Does it make more sense to pull out the cups and start over or does that ruin the integrity of the cups?
I got them in with a 10 pound sledge a piece of metal and a rag. Finally!
Cool!
GenerationOfBmx are the bearings in the new sleeves interchangeable or do u have to buy a whole new bottom bracket set
Buy a whole new set. I dont think ive bought a new school bottom bracket yet that was interchangeable. Hope this helps
I installed these on my Kuwahara Laser Lite and the bottom brackets bearings just slipped right in and were very loose. Do you use cups on this install or just the sealed bearings provided in the kit?
If your frame has the large American Bottom Bracket you will need to put the bearings in the cups and press them in. If you have the American Mid Bottom Bracket you will press in the bearings only. So yes, it sounds like you have to use the cups for your frame. Sounds like its probably an American Bottom Bracket frame.
Thanks for this!
Thanks, this is the first video I found and I have an 86 sport. How is it holding up without the spacer?
+generationofbmx Your cranks should spin better than that with the sealed bearing kit. The spacer sleeve you left out is there for a reason. It's to help keep the inner sealed bearing seats/races from being pushed too far inwards when you tighten down the crank arm bolts. Without the spacer sleeve in place you are exposing the sealed bearings to unwanted inward forces , which can lead to premature bearing/race wear.
Yeah, I understand that. My solution for now is to not tighten the axel bolts up too tight and I should be fine. I actually don't want the cranks to spin easily because I want them to stay in the position I left them in when I do a trick so that when I return to the bike they are where I left them. Many times when the cranks are installed with the sleeve they spin too easily and freely no matter how tight you lock down the axel bolts.
All of my bikes that don't have the sleeve are holding up just fine. So long as they are not tightened up too much you should be fine.
Where is the original Redline sprocket that belongs on those cranks, and why aren't they chrome? The old school single pinch 401s were chrome.
Dude, these are the new Redline cranks that Redline is still making. You can get them in chrome or black. I have both. The sprockets are not sold with the cranks. Not everyone who uses these cranks wants to use them with a Redline sprocket. Google Redline bmx cranks for sale and you will find these. They’re everywhere for around $150.00 bucks give or take a few. Jeez
Hi. I have a 97 GT vertigo I'm refurbing. Can I use the "sealed" convertion 3 pc crank set? Thank you for any responses
Yes. If you have a American Bottom Bracket then get a Sealed American Bottom Bracket. Make sure you get the right size to match your crank spindle. EXAMPLE: If your crank spindle is 19mm then you would get a Sealed American Bottom Bracket for 19mm.
Same rules apply if you have a Mid Bottom Bracket. It would be Sealed Mid bottom Bracket for 19mm
@@generationofbmx ok , I appreciate it . Thanks
Yep did it on my 98 performer and my 90
What size wrench 8 MM?
Sorry, I don't remember.
There are three old school cranks that are valuable and they are hutch redline and profile but only experts will recognise the real ones
Dont forget the Haro Group One cranks. Had a set I bought and sold for over $800 bucks.
Bullseye, and 1989-90 Haro Fusion
1st gen peregrines go for $1000
Surprisingly informative!
What Pegs Are Those?
+Javier Otero The pegs are a new aluminum set I purchased off Ebay. Can't remember what they were but are just a cheap brand. They are 26 tpi threaded for 3/8 axel and I cut about an inch off of them to allow for weight savings.
Thank You Ithey look awesome i am rocking odyssey mpegs on my haro sport however those look nice
I'm gonna get some on my 84 Columbia pro am
Cuánto. Cuesta. Ese. Sentro
Las manivelas cuestan $ 120.00
@@generationofbmx y. Todo. Completo
nice bearing press, did u make that or cop it from a bike shop?
I told a friend of mine what I was trying to do. He is a skilled trade in a machine shop and he made this for me using simple stuff laying around his shop. Its a simple setup that Works awesome. Thanks
Why not go with a smaller crank gear?
With these frames the smallest you can go is a 30 something tooth sprocket. 36 I believe. Anything under that and the chain will rub up against the rear brake. I just wanted to keep this bike with what it would of had back then. A 44T
Nice Ride Bro!
Thank you! Stay Rad!
Liked and subscribed. Sweet bike. Where are you from?
Thanks! Hamilton,Ohio. Near Cincinnati
nice job on this video
What’s the part number on the crank kit.
Not sure, the cranks are now in storage. for sale by the way. any takers??
very long time for to install the Red line crank ...
haste makes waste
I put a set on my VDC cruiser.
donde consigo unos kranks de esos?
Ace Bmx
so why didn't you show the completed bike
I suppose I should have but this video was more about the cranks than the bike. You can see this bike in my video about the 1" to 1 1/8 threadless headset conversion.
I believe I would stick with the old crank. One piece and not have to worry about wearing loose
I have an appreciation for Opc's too but trust me, the bearings on those sets are just as much maintenance(if not more) than the sealed systems on 3 piece sets.
Why would you put flights on this bike? Isn’t that a freestyle frame? I’m sure you know as this video is old, but the crank set is too tight.
It was common in 1987 that Redline Flight cranks were put on the Haro Master. It was a very popular crankset for Freestyle bikes back in those days. Lastly, the tight setting I had these cranks set too was done to my specific liking for my Flatland riding. Before I go into a trick I set the cranks into a exact position so that when I return to the pedal it is there where I need it to be. Sometimes when a crank is more loose it has a tendency to rotate more out of my needed position. I have never had any issues with the way I install or set up my cranks.
Gotcha. I didn’t realize that they used those on freestyle. I thought those guys like one piece cranks with short arms (170?). I was into racing, I don’t know anything about that! Also it makes sense about having them tighter so they stay where ya put them. Makes total sense! Thanks bro.
I love 1 price cranks
Never heard of 1 price cranks 😂😂
they don't look as cool
What was the baseball bat for.........
My cranks are custome red with black and my cousin tried to steal them bicuase he doesn't have a custome racing bmx
Ha ha! Well, at least you have something that other people are wanting!
Brake placement is complete nonsense. Had a 2005 Nyquist R24 and the brake placement aggravated me every time I worked on it.
Pro’s and cons to it i suppose. Bad thing about them on the lower chainstay is that it makes it difficult to run new school 25t sprockets because it causes the chain to rub on the brake arms.
@@generationofbmx yeah, putting a rim with cassette hub is pretty unworkable with that setup. Best you can really do with it is 30t sprocket and 13t freewheel( flip flop rear hub on rim). Oops, sorry... For a 24" rim that was the setup I used. Not sure about a 20". I don't own a 20" but the 24" are same type of thing except for gearing.
You must be watching how to basic videos lol😂😂😂
I wouldn't call this an old school bike I would call it a repop master Good bike but not old school I don't believe the old school bikes had cantilever brakes in the front
Yes, you are partially correct. Its a 1987 Haro Master with a conversion to 1 1/8 threadless headset. The conversion headset allows me to use the modern 1 1/8 new Haro Lineage stem. I used a threadless midschool Haro Megafork from the 90’s with the midschool front brake. And, the seat is a repop Dominator with a reopo aluminum seat post.
those pedals did NOT come with that bike
I can't believe those were even on there
I dont build my bikes to the exact specs that they came from the factory. I am a rider and I build my bikes with the parts that suit my riding preferences. When we were kids, all the guys on my block liked these pedals so when I built this bike a few years ago I went with them as a throwback to the days of my youth.
@@generationofbmx that's cool.....like I said I have a 88 that's all stock with the 990 brakes and the peregrine 48s......the cromes mint. it's the coral color. what's this bike worth u think?
oh yea, it only has the 1peice original crank set
$850 up to maybe $1100.00
@@generationofbmx thanks
Well since the video was posted many many moons ago, how did the crank hold up?
Just fine. Running another set in chrome on my 2017 Red Retro Master! Gotta have at least one set of these on one of my builds.
@@generationofbmxon the second build did you put the spacer in?
@@Shovelhead-Greg No! I haven’t put spacers in any of my three-piece Cranks sets, except for the very first set I ever put in, and I never have any problems with it. all of my riders right now currently have three piece cranks and none of them have the spacers in it and I’m doing just fine without it. Obviously you just don’t want to crank down the bolts too hard and over tighten anything but you shouldn’t do that anyway, whether you have a spacer in or not.
@@generationofbmxsounds good. Just wondering longevity and whatnot
@@Shovelhead-Greg yeah all good. Thnx