Can’t wait to see the finished restoration! Glad to see I’m not the only one who makes those “schoolboy mistakes” that require a big gulp of humility and another tear down 😅
The air in the crank area is actually at a low pressure as air is pulled through the intake ports and into the combustion chamber as the piston moves down. The crank seals keep air (and oil on the clutch side) from being sucked in. That’s why when crank seals wear out, engines runaway with an extremely lean condition, and/or burn transmission oil. Great video though, I really enjoy your work!
Hey man! Everyone makes mistakes and there are so many moving parts and a lot going on in one’s mind while assembling an engine. The good this is you caught your mistakes before it was too late. Good on yah for keeping your cool as well I counted 3 times I think you had to separate the cases. Can’t wait for next week’s video!
Two strokes are a bit of a mystery to me so I wouldn’t have picked up on the seal orientation. I’m liking the single piston ring though. That’s very different to easing in multiple rings on multiple cylinders. Another great video Rob
I like to practice with chainsaws and outboards. At 12:33 I couldn't help but think that oring should have gone inside the groove of the steel spacer. Also, the wear marks on the spacer are odd... might it actually be installed the other way round?
Which # and strength of red loctite are you using in the video? I believe I saw you use it on the engine case perimeter bolts as well as the cylinder base bolts.
cany remember the number but it is the high strength one. The threads are old and prone to coming loose. Apply some gentle heat and they come out no problem.
Hai montato l'albero al rovescio. Ma dai😂 Hai picchiato con il martello sui cuscinetti, non hai sostituito i cuscinetti del cambio, non hai sostituito la biella. Ma che razza di restauro è?
Can’t wait to see the finished restoration! Glad to see I’m not the only one who makes those “schoolboy mistakes” that require a big gulp of humility and another tear down 😅
Really enjoy all of your videos, thank you for making them! Cheers from Canada
The air in the crank area is actually at a low pressure as air is pulled through the intake ports and into the combustion chamber as the piston moves down. The crank seals keep air (and oil on the clutch side) from being sucked in. That’s why when crank seals wear out, engines runaway with an extremely lean condition, and/or burn transmission oil.
Great video though, I really enjoy your work!
Thanks Joe. That make a sense. Of course it’s low pressure in the chamber. I just wonder why Suzuki do it differently?
@@MyRestoration1 I’d love to know too! My 1988 RM250 is the same way. I initially put mine in backwards.
Hey man! Everyone makes mistakes and there are so many moving parts and a lot going on in one’s mind while assembling an engine.
The good this is you caught your mistakes before it was too late. Good on yah for keeping your cool as well I counted 3 times I think you had to separate the cases.
Can’t wait for next week’s video!
Two strokes are a bit of a mystery to me so I wouldn’t have picked up on the seal orientation. I’m liking the single piston ring though. That’s very different to easing in multiple rings on multiple cylinders. Another great video Rob
Fantastic detail and work, high standards as usual with clear explanations. ❤
Quality workmanship and great attention to detail, only thing I’d say is try making the videos longer lol I need my fix 😂
Noted!
Witam ja mam coś podobnego
I like to practice with chainsaws and outboards. At 12:33 I couldn't help but think that oring should have gone inside the groove of the steel spacer. Also, the wear marks on the spacer are odd... might it actually be installed the other way round?
If you rewind you will see another o ring inside. 👍
Nice build!
I just love these videos so much.
What is your favourite thing to fix on a motorbike?
I really like installing bearings :)
My nerves..😬
Which # and strength of red loctite are you using in the video? I believe I saw you use it on the engine case perimeter bolts as well as the cylinder base bolts.
cany remember the number but it is the high strength one. The threads are old and prone to coming loose. Apply some gentle heat and they come out no problem.
Didn't you replace the crankshaft rod?
My only thing don't use red lock tite you'll never get it apart
Heat and hammer screwdriver
LocTite 271? I hope you don’t plan on removing any of those fasteners. 😂
They will come out. Been in and out too many times to take a risk but what do I know you might be right buddy
I said the same thing
Hai montato l'albero al rovescio. Ma dai😂 Hai picchiato con il martello sui cuscinetti, non hai sostituito i cuscinetti del cambio, non hai sostituito la biella. Ma che razza di restauro è?
Your such a amateur 😂
😂