Man, i've watched about 20 videos on these carbs and not one was nearly as detailed and broken down. Makes the job a bit less intimidating. Many thanks.
I just fixed my stubborn ass cub cadet with the same engine by watching this and following you step by step. Didnt have to change the nozzle out thank god. It starts easier than it ever has!
Thank you so much for this video. I was very skeptical about tearing into to this job but after watching your video I felt confident and ready to go ahead. It was no trouble at all as there was no fear of the unknown. I knew just what to expect. Up and running again. I can't thank you enough for taking the time to make this video.
Thanks Jeff, Gave me the confidence to clean my carby out. It was not starting, had spark and fuel pump was pumping fuel and when I sprayed brake cleaner into the throat of the carby it would fire so I hoped it would be a dirty jet etc. I took it apart as far as you did in your clip and found a bit of dirt came out into the cleaning bowl. Put it back together and it started after a few turnovers to suck the fuel through. Thanks again for your clip.
Right now I try to bring back to life the same tractor who was abandoned for 6 years under a tree in the mud! 🤘 (I'm french sorry for misunderstanding) For now I had changed the fuel hose cause she's clogged starting to decompose. I changed oil, and both filters, also the vacuum fuel module. And now I look to this video to learn how to properly clean the jet in the carburetor cause the engine start and stall right after. I'm close!
Nice video. I appreciate the frank and honesty you expressed in comments like "Don't lose any parts like I usually do". We've all bee there before. Also the plain, clear language you use. Funny how others always have additional comments to throw their two cents in. So I will too!! LOL Sometimes for those stubborn little screws I'll take a pair of needle nose vise-grips and pinch them on the side with a good bite. It usually always allows me to break them free (providing space is in your favor) and then I haven't risked damaging the screw heads. I could care less if there is a few bites in the sides of the screw from the vise-grips. Great job overall!!
Hi Jeff. I want to tell you that your explanations on how to remove and clean this 2cylinder carburetor is fantastic! I learned a lot from your demonstration and the video is extra clear. Thank you for such a great explanation on each step of the process of rebuilding that carburetor! My neighbor gave me a Briggs and Stratton 2cylinder like the one you have. It sat for at least 10 years in his John Deere but now it's in my Craftsman. I connected all of the wiring and replaced the fuel pump. It started right away and after I engaged the blade it too functioned like it should. I shut off the engine to try and restart it but it only makes a squeaking noise and won't start! At first, I thought that it might be the battery but now I'm thinking that it's probably the carburetor so your video will help me tremendously. Thanks for a such an excellent job. I had no clue on how to remove this type of carburetor but now it's not as difficult as I thought!
Beyond EXCELLENT ! I have seen a lot of repair videos over the last 10 years , but that 41 minutes & 30 seconds was time well spent . Good job ! It was nice to see it finally start and run . You deserve 2 cases of your favorite beer for free . If you don't drink , then you deserve 2 cases of prune juice . Lets see you fix that Sunny Boy ! Peanuts should help !
I"ve done dozens of carburetor rebuilds, mostly on motorcycles. Instead of using a chisel to "impact" stuck screws, I have a small set of vise grips that have always worked with next to no damage to the screw so it can be used again. All you need is for the screw to back off about 5 degrees and the rest of the way can be done with a screwdriver. It's a must when working on JIS screws with a standard Phillips head. :)
Nice job of explaining, I have worked on cars over the years, but I was a bit intimidated about cleaning my gummed up carb on my Husqvarna Intek B&S until I watched this. I'm gonna watch it a second time just to be sure and let her rip! Thanks!
This is one of, if not the very best, instructional video I've watched on TH-cam !!! Well done and thank you! As I'm about to perform the same service on my mower this will be most helpful.
Excellent video on repairing this carburetor. Appreciate your honesty, friendly advice, and restraint from really cursing when things get difficult (loosening bolts, etc.) Hope my results are the same as yours. Thanks, W. S. Lenihan
Wow, what a job, very well illustrated. I was thinking of changing the carburetor on my JD L118 but after seeing what you had to go through, I think I changed my mind. Excellent job, very well demonstrated. Thank you!
I just ran into the issue of stripping out the screws on a carb bowl on my dad's riding lawn mower. Those screws just would not budge, so what I ended up doing was using channel lock pliers and gripped the head of the screw, since they aren't flat and protrude out. Was the only thing that worked for me.
To loosen the screws instead of using a chisel all you had to do was put a vise grip on the screw slightly squeeze it and turn it. I did mine it was so easy..
A couple of other ways to loosen those screws without ruining them. Try just using the Phillips driver of the correct size and holding it straight up give it several sharp taps with a hammer to shock the threads a bit, this often is all that is needed, Alternatively if you have a cordless drill with the different settings for tightening screws, you can use it as an impact driver to loosen / remove the screws. Both of these ways will preserve the heads of the screws. Penetrating lube is always a plus. Gabby
My fuel selenoid pulls down the rod when ignition is in the accessory position but pops back up when trying to start the engine, thus no gas to start. Any advice on troubleshooting electrical to get the selenoid to stay in the proper position? Ignition switch problem? Safety switch problem? Seat is tied down, parking brake is on, mower deck switch is off.
My 25 horsepower Briggs & Stratton V-Twin started flooding itself so I just replaced the whole carburetor. It may cost $100 but it was so easy just to pull the old one off and bolt the new one on and go.
I have this exact motor and it starts and runs. The problem im having is when the mower is pointed down hill it sputters and coughs and puffs out black smoke, when pointed uphill it runs fine. Is this a fuel pump issue or is it the float needle stuck open? Im guessing the latter since my fuel tank is in the rear the pump must be working ok.
Lawnmower Repair and Service Maintenance Tips it cold be a safety switch too. Some mowers refuse a grade approaching 20% and cuts off if your weight shifts or comes off the seat.
If you walk away from the camera/microphone, the level of your voice drops off dramatically; try to carry the camera with you on your excursions away from the recording device.... other than that, your technical approach and trouble checking sequencing is impeccable. Thanks for your efforts in making great teaching tutorials!!
To bust them loose I usually put a good fitting Phillips and SHARPLY CRACK it with a light hammer several times hitting straight down. Hopefully that will bust loose the lock tight. If you bung up those screw heads do yourself a favor and go buy new hex heads in stainless at the hardware store. OEM quality screws are made of a mixture of Candy cane and cheese curd! Garbage is too kind a word for them.
If the mower smokes it means the oil is thin and the gas was leaking past the carburetor when it was off.leaked down past the rings when the motor is cold and thinned the oil out. When it warms up the rings seal
Awesome thanks for the video! I learned everything I needed / wanted to know about my new riding mower's engine in your video in 41 mins. Mine wasn't starting right away, you would have to turn it over for like 2 mins (and of course the battery would often die before I could get it started. Also it revs up / down up down up down. Once it does get started. So im assuming carubator is a bit gummed up? I bought it used its a 20 hp v twin.
Briggs Engineering meeting: "how can we make a minor maintenance task a royal PITA for the consumer?" "I've got it - put the carb mount screws on backwards!" "gibbons you're a genius!"
Thanks I'm just starting out repairing machines so don't know what to really charge.i cleaned out carb replaced ignition switch and selnoid and also unstuck the PTO
You know you could have just used a pair if pliers on them bowl screws... the heads are pretty exposed. Thats what i did and no damage to the screws at all. Actually thats what i do with all tight screwdriver head screws.
I have the same engine but it's a 25hp, but it will only start on starting fluid but it stays running fine after that, any ideas ? I'm hoping to not have to remove the carb because I have to disassemble the entire front end of the mower. Thanks
richard reza I’m struggling too. Briggs and Stratton sorts alphabetically on their web sight. Can’t find anything that connects the carb model/Part number to the engine model.
Rob Powers yes I’ve been trying to get a replacement carb for 20 hp OHV Briggs &Strat on Amazon have all model #s SERL #s n can’t find part # to match they say on some they will so guess I’ll find out.For as Cross refries they suck if any ideas would appreciate. Thanks
This is very shade-tree for a repair channel. Also, the carb studs aren't 5/32. They are external torx (e4 if I recall) also, invest in an impact screwdriver and lose the chisel.
How do you work on small engines without an impact driver? The kind that looks like a fat screwdriver you tap with a hammer. I got one fifty years ago to work on motorcycle engines. I kind of cheated to fix the carburetor on my 20 hp engine. I removed the throttle cable bracket and could get to the float bowl directly. I figured my needle valve was stuck as the motor would almost run. My screws were not stuck too bad and a flat bit stuck in a 1/4 inch socket on a ratchet was all I needed to loosen them. After I dropped it I blew air into the fuel line and the float assembly popped out. It was whistle clean even though the mower is 12 years old. I took the float off and the needle valve out. I sprayed a little carb cleaner in the hole and reassembled it. I pressed it back into the carb and put the float bowl back on. A few seconds of cranking and it runs like a champ with no leaks. Here it is Feb 21 in North Florida, 85 degrees and I have to mow my grass. Your video was helpful in showing how to get the float bowl off.
Folks, do yourself a big favor and clean the engine - or at least the area around the carb - as thoroughly as possible before removing any parts. Compressed air is invaluable, if not mandatory. Once the carb is off, before removing any components cover the various openings and clean everything off again. That device should be spotless before disassembly. Those tiny passages are dying to be clogged with foreign material.
If anyone wants to do away with that solenoid you can use a 5/16-24 bolt thats cut down to about 1/4" long. To avoid backfiring when shutting down just throttle down before turning the engine off.
@@jeffslawnmowerrepairandservice I had a solenoid die in front of me last year and didn't want to buy another so that was my fix. I've seen others do it but nobody cuts them down to fit properly instead they usually use washers and rtv which winds up leaking.
DUDES !!! NEVER , EVER DELETE THAT FUEL SHUT OFF SOLENOID ! IT'S THERE FOR A REASON . SAFETY ! I've seen burnt up mowers resulting from that being removed !
So ....You have a small engine business and you had to wait a week until the rain stopped so you don't have a shop ...Looks like your working outdoors and your workbench is a 6x6 on the driveway ...
That Nikki carb is made in Japan. The correct screwdriver to remove those two stubborn screws is a JIS screwdriver. A company by the name of Vessel makes an excellent impact version that you can strike with a hammer to break stubborn ones free.
Rick Pickell trust me. I was wishing I could lend you mine. Looks like I can get the whole carb off eb@y for $20. My tractor quit after 5 years. Gas is coming out the pump and it runes if I dump gas in the air cleaner.
Man, i've watched about 20 videos on these carbs and not one was nearly as detailed and broken down. Makes the job a bit less intimidating. Many thanks.
I just fixed my stubborn ass cub cadet with the same engine by watching this and following you step by step. Didnt have to change the nozzle out thank god. It starts easier than it ever has!
Thank you so much for this video. I was very skeptical about tearing into to this job but after watching your video I felt confident and ready to go ahead. It was no trouble at all as there was no fear of the unknown. I knew just what to expect. Up and running again. I can't thank you enough for taking the time to make this video.
Glad it helped, Thank you for watching
"What's going on in there is none of my business." Love it!
lol!
Thanks for the carb tutorial...I have a 24 hp Briggs Intec that had sat for 5 years also. Now I have advance info of the removed carb insides.
Getting ready to do this. Looked kinda scary but watching this helps.
take your time and you can do it!
Thanks Jeff,
Gave me the confidence to clean my carby out. It was not starting, had spark and fuel pump was pumping fuel and when I sprayed brake cleaner into the throat of the carby it would fire so I hoped it would be a dirty jet etc. I took it apart as far as you did in your clip and found a bit of dirt came out into the cleaning bowl. Put it back together and it started after a few turnovers to suck the fuel through. Thanks again for your clip.
Thanks for watching
Nice job. 35:13 amazed on the h20 comming out of the exhaust.
Right now I try to bring back to life the same tractor who was abandoned for 6 years under a tree in the mud! 🤘
(I'm french sorry for misunderstanding)
For now I had changed the fuel hose cause she's clogged starting to decompose.
I changed oil, and both filters, also the vacuum fuel module.
And now I look to this video to learn how to properly clean the jet in the carburetor cause the engine start and stall right after.
I'm close!
you can do it!
Nice video. I appreciate the frank and honesty you expressed in comments like "Don't lose any parts like I usually do". We've all bee there before. Also the plain, clear language you use. Funny how others always have additional comments to throw their two cents in. So I will too!! LOL Sometimes for those stubborn little screws I'll take a pair of needle nose vise-grips and pinch them on the side with a good bite. It usually always allows me to break them free (providing space is in your favor) and then I haven't risked damaging the screw heads. I could care less if there is a few bites in the sides of the screw from the vise-grips. Great job overall!!
Hi Jeff. I want to tell you that your explanations on how to remove and clean this 2cylinder carburetor is fantastic! I learned a lot from your demonstration and the video is extra clear. Thank you for such a great explanation on each step of the process of rebuilding that carburetor! My neighbor gave me a Briggs and Stratton 2cylinder like the one you have. It sat for at least 10 years in his John Deere but now it's in my Craftsman. I connected all of the wiring and replaced the fuel pump. It started right away and after I engaged the blade it too functioned like it should. I shut off the engine to try and restart it but it only makes a squeaking noise and won't start! At first, I thought that it might be the battery but now I'm thinking that it's probably the carburetor so your video will help me tremendously. Thanks for a such an excellent job. I had no clue on how to remove this type of carburetor but now it's not as difficult as I thought!
thank you for watching friend
Might have to adjust valve clearance to .004 on both
Beyond EXCELLENT ! I have seen a lot of repair videos over the last 10 years , but that 41 minutes & 30 seconds was time well spent . Good job ! It was nice to see it finally start and run . You deserve 2 cases of your favorite beer for free . If you don't drink , then you deserve 2 cases of prune juice . Lets see you fix that Sunny Boy !
Peanuts should help !
I just ordered a new carb and now know how to install it. Thanks, great video.
I"ve done dozens of carburetor rebuilds, mostly on motorcycles. Instead of using a chisel to "impact" stuck screws, I have a small set of vise grips that have always worked with next to no damage to the screw so it can be used again. All you need is for the screw to back off about 5 degrees and the rest of the way can be done with a screwdriver. It's a must when working on JIS screws with a standard Phillips head. :)
Impact driver works as well but definitely vise grips if nothing else.
Nice job of explaining, I have worked on cars over the years, but I was a bit intimidated about cleaning my gummed up carb on my Husqvarna Intek B&S until I watched this. I'm gonna watch it a second time just to be sure and let her rip! Thanks!
Glad it helped
This is one of, if not the very best, instructional video I've watched on TH-cam !!! Well done and thank you! As I'm about to perform the same service on my mower this will be most helpful.
Excellent video on repairing this carburetor. Appreciate your honesty, friendly advice, and restraint from really cursing when things get difficult (loosening bolts, etc.) Hope my results are the same as yours.
Thanks, W. S. Lenihan
good luck you got this, slow and steady wins the race......(the correct tools help too!)
Great job. Great photography. No stokes about your grandma or third wife. Awesome.
lol! Thanks for watching
Thank you!!!! Excellent video!!! Very informative.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for this, it tickled me when the muffler blew off lol
lol!
The hammer and chisel saved me !!
Wow, what a job, very well illustrated. I was thinking of changing the carburetor on my JD L118 but after seeing what you had to go through, I think I changed my mind. Excellent job, very well demonstrated. Thank you!
Great and informative video man!
Glad it helped!
Very helpful !! I need to clean mine and this was just what I needed !!
I see you cleaned up pikachu as well lol good video very well explained👍👍
thanks for watching !
very good explanation , Thanks for the video!!!
LMFAO!
I just ran into the issue of stripping out the screws on a carb bowl on my dad's riding lawn mower. Those screws just would not budge, so what I ended up doing was using channel lock pliers and gripped the head of the screw, since they aren't flat and protrude out. Was the only thing that worked for me.
Good job, I have had to do that before as well
To loosen the screws instead of using a chisel all you had to do was put a vise grip on the screw slightly squeeze it and turn it. I did mine it was so easy..
Enjoyed your video. I learned a lot. The special effect noises had me laughing and made my day.
lol! Thanks friend!
great instructions
Thanks for watching
A couple of other ways to loosen those screws without ruining them. Try just using the Phillips driver of the correct size and holding it straight up give it several sharp taps with a hammer to shock the threads a bit, this often is all that is needed, Alternatively if you have a cordless drill with the different settings for tightening screws, you can use it as an impact driver to loosen / remove the screws. Both of these ways will preserve the heads of the screws. Penetrating lube is always a plus.
Gabby
My fuel selenoid pulls down the rod when ignition is in the accessory position but pops back up when trying to start the engine, thus no gas to start. Any advice on troubleshooting electrical to get the selenoid to stay in the proper position? Ignition switch problem? Safety switch problem? Seat is tied down, parking brake is on, mower deck switch is off.
My 25 horsepower Briggs & Stratton V-Twin started flooding itself so I just replaced the whole carburetor. It may cost $100 but it was so easy just to pull the old one off and bolt the new one on and go.
My engine is allowing gasoline to siphon from the tank and flood the crankcase. I gotta get an inline cutoff valve and do this soon.
alwaysopen The needle and seat in your carb isn’t seating properly.
I have this exact motor and it starts and runs. The problem im having is when the mower is pointed down hill it sputters and coughs and puffs out black smoke, when pointed uphill it runs fine. Is this a fuel pump issue or is it the float needle stuck open? Im guessing the latter since my fuel tank is in the rear the pump must be working ok.
That sounds like a contaminated fuel system to me. Water and or sediment is probably in your tank, fuel filter and carburetor
Lawnmower Repair and Service Maintenance Tips it cold be a safety switch too. Some mowers refuse a grade approaching 20% and cuts off if your weight shifts or comes off the seat.
Vise grips work great
loved watching every step.....I feel confident that I can do this now as my carb is the exact same one.
Exactly what I needed... thanks!
Very good video. For those stubborn phillips screws, I would reccomend that you pick up an impact driver. It would have those off in no time.
good tip! thanks
Great Job !!!!
thanks friend!
excellent job!!
Thank you!
If you walk away from the camera/microphone, the level of your voice drops off dramatically; try to carry the camera with you on your excursions away from the recording device.... other than that, your technical approach and trouble checking sequencing is impeccable. Thanks for your efforts in making great teaching tutorials!!
Nice. Thanks for doing this.
BTW, I operate the same way - constantly dropping things, etc....
I used an impact for the bowl screws they are on tight
To bust them loose I usually put a good fitting Phillips and SHARPLY CRACK it with a light hammer several times hitting straight down. Hopefully that will bust loose the lock tight. If you bung up those screw heads do yourself a favor and go buy new hex heads in stainless at the hardware store. OEM quality screws are made of a mixture of Candy cane and cheese curd! Garbage is too kind a word for them.
pikachu is a nice touch!
haha! thanks! I think you are the first to notice
…at the 13 minute mark I was screaming “IMPACT DRIVER!… IMPACT DRIVER!”
I was afraid to use it on this delicate part
Carburetor bowl screws, have carb sitting on top of vice, thick screwdriver, tap screwdriver handle with hammer and they pop loose.
Vise grips.
i use visegrips on stripped screws
Helpful video. Thanks
nicely done
Whats the part number for a new carb ?
If the mower smokes it means the oil is thin and the gas was leaking past the carburetor when it was off.leaked down past the rings when the motor is cold and thinned the oil out. When it warms up the rings seal
Awesome thanks for the video! I learned everything I needed / wanted to know about my new riding mower's engine in your video in 41 mins. Mine wasn't starting right away, you would have to turn it over for like 2 mins (and of course the battery would often die before I could get it started. Also it revs up / down up down up down. Once it does get started. So im assuming carubator is a bit gummed up? I bought it used its a 20 hp v twin.
Yeah I got that same engine. The 20hp.
Gotta love a repair video from someone that doesn't have a clue what he's doing.
We learn together
Don't over tighten everything bro. Jajaja. Thank you good job.
Briggs Engineering meeting: "how can we make a minor maintenance task a royal PITA for the consumer?" "I've got it - put the carb mount screws on backwards!" "gibbons you're a genius!"
LOL! this carb is a pain to work on for sure!!!
Big help
Carborator kit only $12 buck. Should replace all gaskets and o'ring' but good job A +
used vise grips to break loose screws, put the hammer away.
How much would you charge someone for that whole clean out?
At least $75.00 on this one
Thanks I'm just starting out repairing machines so don't know what to really charge.i cleaned out carb replaced ignition switch and selnoid and also unstuck the PTO
on tight screws such as the ones in that carb. buy an impact screw driver they are cheap and work without damaging the screws like you did.
Yes I have one. It was too fragile of a part to use it, in my opinion
You know you could have just used a pair if pliers on them bowl screws... the heads are pretty exposed. Thats what i did and no damage to the screws at all. Actually thats what i do with all tight screwdriver head screws.
I have the same engine but it's a 25hp, but it will only start on starting fluid but it stays running fine after that, any ideas ? I'm hoping to not have to remove the carb because I have to disassemble the entire front end of the mower. Thanks
The choke and or slow speed circuit inside the carburetor is plugged
Carb looks so much different than one I have on a Poulan Pro 20HP riding mower. There is no bottom fuel solenoid - it's on the side of the carb.
Taking the lower half of carb off and it's like a flat piece of plastic and couldn't figure out how to remove it.
That valve float needle....797410.....I have a 25hp craftsman...briggs/strtn... v/intek....will that part work on mine?
richard reza I’m struggling too. Briggs and Stratton sorts alphabetically on their web sight. Can’t find anything that connects the carb model/Part number to the engine model.
Rob Powers yes I’ve been trying to get a replacement carb for 20 hp OHV Briggs &Strat on Amazon have all model #s SERL #s n can’t find part # to match they say on some they will so guess I’ll find out.For as Cross refries they suck if any ideas would appreciate. Thanks
jesus man, next time grab the bowl screws with a chanel lock or vise grip pliers to crack them free, then use the screwdriver
I just ordered new carb filter spark plugs and all the gaskets for $36
Good luck! I have found that cheap carburetors and spark plugs fail often or never work correctly at all
@@jeffslawnmowerrepairandservice thanks
@@jeffslawnmowerrepairandservice so far so good! Price was right and know I am taking a chance as with my rebuilding skills! Great video
You didn't show putting on the line. From the crankcase to the carburetor
Oop! I remember having to go back and do it after I assembled it.
nd great job on the Video.
USE SMALL VISE GRIPS ON SCREWS LIKETHAT TO LOOSEN OR SUPER LONG SCREWDRIVER =MORE TORQUE
This is very shade-tree for a repair channel.
Also, the carb studs aren't 5/32. They are external torx (e4 if I recall) also, invest in an impact screwdriver and lose the chisel.
"backyard repair on the cheap" is what I like to call it
Dangit! I was putting back on the flywheel cover and I overtightened the bolts. I wish you would have warned me not to do that!
Sorry!
How do you work on small engines without an impact driver? The kind that looks like a fat screwdriver you tap with a hammer. I got one fifty years ago to work on motorcycle engines.
I kind of cheated to fix the carburetor on my 20 hp engine. I removed the throttle cable bracket and could get to the float bowl directly. I figured my needle valve was stuck as the motor would almost run. My screws were not stuck too bad and a flat bit stuck in a 1/4 inch socket on a ratchet was all I needed to loosen them. After I dropped it I blew air into the fuel line and the float assembly popped out. It was whistle clean even though the mower is 12 years old. I took the float off and the needle valve out. I sprayed a little carb cleaner in the hole and reassembled it. I pressed it back into the carb and put the float bowl back on. A few seconds of cranking and it runs like a champ with no leaks.
Here it is Feb 21 in North Florida, 85 degrees and I have to mow my grass. Your video was helpful in showing how to get the float bowl off.
Hello! I do have an impact driver, I thought it may harm the carburetor. Thanks for the comment!
Next time you have stubborn screws or bolts try a hammer or electric impact.
That's what I used on mine, worked like a charm
Folks, do yourself a big favor and clean the engine - or at least the area around the carb - as thoroughly as possible before removing any parts. Compressed air is invaluable, if not mandatory. Once the carb is off, before removing any components cover the various openings and clean everything off again. That device should be spotless before disassembly. Those tiny passages are dying to be clogged with foreign material.
Good tip. I work on too many to clean them all.
If anyone wants to do away with that solenoid you can use a 5/16-24 bolt thats cut down to about 1/4" long. To avoid backfiring when shutting down just throttle down before turning the engine off.
cool! good tip!
@@jeffslawnmowerrepairandservice I had a solenoid die in front of me last year and didn't want to buy another so that was my fix. I've seen others do it but nobody cuts them down to fit properly instead they usually use washers and rtv which winds up leaking.
DUDES !!! NEVER , EVER DELETE THAT FUEL SHUT OFF SOLENOID ! IT'S THERE FOR A REASON . SAFETY ! I've seen burnt up mowers resulting from that being removed !
you could have just tap the heads of the bolts with hammer and it would have came loose
A small hand impact driver (that you hit with a hammer) is useful for these type of screws.
You can get the carb rebuild kit here ...www.ebay.com/itm/174119875401
Damn valves are outta adjustment!!lol😂😂😂
That rear set of plates is not your throttle plates. They are your Choke Plates.
you can buy the whole carb on amazon for 30$.
I wouldn't buy a $30.00 carburetor unless it was a genuine Briggs and Stratton carburetor.
@@jeffslawnmowerrepairandservice Good tip genius!
Good call Patriot!
I purchased it on Amazon. TWICE. Both were incorrect or didn't fit. Can't let the lawn go another week, so here i an watching this video.
So ....You have a small engine business and you had to wait a week until the rain stopped so you don't have a shop ...Looks like your working outdoors and your workbench is a 6x6 on the driveway ...
I have work benches everywhere around my place and still not enough space they are always full! lol!
The gas tank is leaking at the seam, needs to be replaced.
Nice video. Terrible design. I prefer single cylinder briggs the 917 models made by Husquavarna. Very easy to work on.
The foam pre filter goes on top of the air filter
0
14
That Nikki carb is made in Japan. The correct screwdriver to remove those two stubborn screws is a JIS screwdriver. A company by the name of Vessel makes an excellent impact version that you can strike with a hammer to break stubborn ones free.
There is a tool called VIcE GRIPS!
tHEY MAKE Thin walled wrenches too.
But....Great video. The newer 2012 plus....PLASTIC NIGHTMERE
On my tool list. 1 new impact screw driver.
For sure! I have one but I felt I might damage something if I used it for this application.
Rick Pickell trust me. I was wishing I could lend you mine. Looks like I can get the whole carb off eb@y for $20. My tractor quit after 5 years. Gas is coming out the pump and it runes if I dump gas in the air cleaner.