On my 2010 Berlingo the shock absorber rod had to be held with a T40 Torx tool. I didn’t realise that until I removed the strut. Anyway video was a great help and my job was a success.
grate video unfortunately I made a mistake when reassembling the strut I did not realize that you had to move the top Spring Mounting on to the new baring as it was not shown in that much detail in the video and I thought the top mount baring came with every thing you needed. there for when I put all the suspension back together the spring would bind on the top of the wheel arch and make a donging noise every time i turned the wheel left to right. after taking it apart again and watching this video through a few more times the penny dropped and I realized that part needed to be pressed out the old baring and and moved over it was all quite corded so just looked like one part. I hope this helps someone some day
I just had exactly the same problem!! I just thought the new shock top mount was a different style. I'm now going out to do this job for the 3rd time today 😂 I'm getting fairly fast now though. So a word of caution to others doing this job... There is a spring cap that sits down inside the top of the spring and the shock top mount sits on top of this. You will have to belt this spring cap off the old damaged shock top mount with a hammer or something like that. They will probably be welded together with grime and look like a single part.
Hi mate in my berlingo my passenger side is making like a stretching sound then clonk when I turn the steering wheel is that the top mounth on the shock too can u tell me please I done the drop links and ball joints on it already
Thats interesting how easy it is. I have a noise from right front either. On the left side it was the lower balljoint. You could wobble around the mounted wheel with your hands. It was crazy loose. Now in the right side I cant see anything. Its cloncy noise when I drive over a hole or similarand also some vibration when speeding in the fourth gear at around 2500 rpm. No wobbling while moving the wheel. Its all fast. The garage says they could not find out anything. Balljoint stable, connectors to stabilizer stable, tierod ends either. So it might be the upper mount. Thanks for that video it might help diagnosing my problem. Taking the struts out to test the mounts is an opportunity? Or better undo the other joints to check them. Preferably change both sides ir isnt it necessary? Maybe you have th torques for the mountings of these three nuts below.
I have do the same on peugeot 307 but after then the car it tends to pull right and the steering is not at center ! why is that hapen ? what is changes during this service ? But general what changes everityme I do this ? is it the top mount that not fit exactly the same point ? I αlso check the camper no problem with that !
i had the same problem. and replaced the top mount with monroe mk194. but something is wrong. there seemes to be to little clerance between the nut on top of the top mount, and the top cap inside the engine bay. when i press down on the front of the car when its on the ground. i can see the top cap move up and down. i have followed your video 100%.
Sounds like you haven’t fully tightened the top nut. Are you sure you held the shock absorber central rod steady with the 7mm hex properly? Hopefully you got it sorted
Did you get it sorted? If not hopefully you took your car to some one who could as suspension is SO important. It has massive implications for vehicle stability and safety if something is not right.
The widow maker death spring compressor clamps you used are to be avoided as they are so dangerous if they slip or one of them lets go. There's no telling where 500-600lbs of compressed spring is going to go. I have just changed the top mounts, bearings and shock absorbers on my Peugeot Partner Tepee. Rather than struggle with the death clamps as you did and which I have done over the years, always feeing very nervous like handling an unexploded bomb winding them in and out, this time I thought enough is enough and I bought myself a proper Sealey hydraulic spring compressor. Changing springs is now far far safer and much quicker than it was with the widow maker death compressor clamps. Also the suspension top mount is a crap design by Peugeot and Citroen using just a central nut to hold the mount in position and attach the strut to it. Awful. So I used the existing holes drilled into the body of the top mount, 2 of them 6mm holes and added a 3rd to accept some flat head clinch bolts which the heads sit flush in side the top mount so the bearing can still be seated fine but these bolts then allow you to bolt the top mount to the underside of the wing turret making it so much more secure than just one central nut. So I now have 3 bolts on each strut mount poking up from inside the wing turret and Nyloc nuts on the top of the turret holding the top mount very firmly in place. To do this you have to drill holes though the turret top from the under side to accept the bolts but it's fairly straight forward if you are methodical and take your time. The result is astonishing. Zero noise whatsoever from the suspension and the steering and handling is so much sharper. Admittedly I fitted new Bilstein shock absorbers as well as fitting a new top mount and bearing, but the transformation is absolutely huge. I drove a few Partner Tepees and Citroen Belingos before I bought mine and mine is now so much better than all of them to drive. No more wallowing suspension or vague steering. It's spot on now. Previously I had the OE std Sachs shock absorbers on mine with 45k miles on them and they have been absolute crap for the last 22k miles. I have had them on other cars before and they have been just as terrible on those as they have been on my Partner so they haven't improved. A cheap nasty shock absorber brand. The Bilstein B4 shocks I have now fitted are miles better. My car has only done 44,300 miles. The knocking and clonking started from the suspension at around 22k pretty much from day one when I bought the car. The Peugeot dealer I bought it from didn't want to know, neither did another Peugeot dealer. They both said it was fine because they couldn't CBA to try tp investigate properly, typical A-hole car dealers. So three years of suffering and another 22k miles I decided enough was enough. Talking with a local independent garage who MOTs it, it always passed with no advisories, that likely cause of the knocking and clonking was either worn top mounts and or struts. They wanted a lot of money so supply and fit new units so I thought sod it, have to do it myself and at least it will be done properly! I think I will change the rear shock absorbers for Bilstein B4 units as well as currently I have the dreadful OE Sachs units still fitted to the rear of my car which are too soft and give terrible damping and handling. Anyway thanks for making your video even though it was 6 years ago now. It was helpful.
I used to use them spring clamps a lot,I always roped the spring to the strut leg just in case,never had one let go,but always a worry.bought a nice hydraulic one now,they're awesome 👌
On my 2010 Berlingo the shock absorber rod had to be held with a T40 Torx tool. I didn’t realise that until I removed the strut.
Anyway video was a great help and my job was a success.
Had a annoying knocking/vibration from the front end. After checking everything else I followed this video. Spot on! Saved me £100's. Cheers mate.
👌👌
grate video unfortunately I made a mistake when reassembling the strut I did not realize that you had to move the top Spring Mounting on to the new baring as it was not shown in that much detail in the video and I thought the top mount baring came with every thing you needed. there for when I put all the suspension back together the spring would bind on the top of the wheel arch and make a donging noise every time i turned the wheel left to right. after taking it apart again and watching this video through a few more times the penny dropped and I realized that part needed to be pressed out the old baring and and moved over it was all quite corded so just looked like one part. I hope this helps someone some day
I just had exactly the same problem!! I just thought the new shock top mount was a different style. I'm now going out to do this job for the 3rd time today 😂 I'm getting fairly fast now though.
So a word of caution to others doing this job... There is a spring cap that sits down inside the top of the spring and the shock top mount sits on top of this. You will have to belt this spring cap off the old damaged shock top mount with a hammer or something like that. They will probably be welded together with grime and look like a single part.
Yep, this is the most important part of the process, and has been left out, my local garage failed to get this right so what chance does a diyer have.
Hi is there any padding under the strut mount bearing?
To be honest with you, because roads are bad here in UK, every 100k miles just install new suspension. Less headache.
100k miles!!! More like 50k.
Great job. How long to replace to sides
Hi mate in my berlingo my passenger side is making like a stretching sound then clonk when I turn the steering wheel is that the top mounth on the shock too can u tell me please I done the drop links and ball joints on it already
great video..thanks from.mallow.....would it be the same for the rear..my 2010 ad a knocking there..cheers
Hi when i took of the driver side shock out the xale goes off and all gear oil out..do u know whats the problem
Very helpful, thank you.
Thanks for the comment
Thats interesting how easy it is. I have a noise from right front either. On the left side it was the lower balljoint. You could wobble around the mounted wheel with your hands. It was crazy loose.
Now in the right side I cant see anything. Its cloncy noise when I drive over a hole or similarand also some vibration when speeding in the fourth gear at around 2500 rpm. No wobbling while moving the wheel. Its all fast. The garage says they could not find out anything. Balljoint stable, connectors to stabilizer stable, tierod ends either.
So it might be the upper mount. Thanks for that video it might help diagnosing my problem. Taking the struts out to test the mounts is an opportunity? Or better undo the other joints to check them.
Preferably change both sides ir isnt it necessary?
Maybe you have th torques for the mountings of these three nuts below.
great video dude.how long to replace the 2
Usefull tutorial. Used witch success on my 2010 Berlingo Multiuspace.
I have do the same on peugeot 307 but after then the car it tends to pull right and the steering is not at center ! why is that hapen ? what is changes during this service ? But general what changes everityme I do this ? is it the top mount that not fit exactly the same point ? I αlso check the camper no problem with that !
i had the same problem. and replaced the top mount with monroe mk194. but something is wrong. there seemes to be to little clerance between the nut on top of the top mount, and the top cap inside the engine bay. when i press down on the front of the car when its on the ground. i can see the top cap move up and down. i have followed your video 100%.
Sounds like you haven’t fully tightened the top nut. Are you sure you held the shock absorber central rod steady with the 7mm hex properly? Hopefully you got it sorted
Did you get it sorted? If not hopefully you took your car to some one who could as suspension is SO important. It has massive implications for vehicle stability and safety if something is not right.
Superb talk through thanks
Brilliant 👏
Good job man....
Keep it up.
Thanks
Ive the same problem Thanks for the Info
The widow maker death spring compressor clamps you used are to be avoided as they are so dangerous if they slip or one of them lets go. There's no telling where 500-600lbs of compressed spring is going to go.
I have just changed the top mounts, bearings and shock absorbers on my Peugeot Partner Tepee. Rather than struggle with the death clamps as you did and which I have done over the years, always feeing very nervous like handling an unexploded bomb winding them in and out, this time I thought enough is enough and I bought myself a proper Sealey hydraulic spring compressor. Changing springs is now far far safer and much quicker than it was with the widow maker death compressor clamps.
Also the suspension top mount is a crap design by Peugeot and Citroen using just a central nut to hold the mount in position and attach the strut to it. Awful. So I used the existing holes drilled into the body of the top mount, 2 of them 6mm holes and added a 3rd to accept some flat head clinch bolts which the heads sit flush in side the top mount so the bearing can still be seated fine but these bolts then allow you to bolt the top mount to the underside of the wing turret making it so much more secure than just one central nut.
So I now have 3 bolts on each strut mount poking up from inside the wing turret and Nyloc nuts on the top of the turret holding the top mount very firmly in place. To do this you have to drill holes though the turret top from the under side to accept the bolts but it's fairly straight forward if you are methodical and take your time.
The result is astonishing. Zero noise whatsoever from the suspension and the steering and handling is so much sharper. Admittedly I fitted new Bilstein shock absorbers as well as fitting a new top mount and bearing, but the transformation is absolutely huge. I drove a few Partner Tepees and Citroen Belingos before I bought mine and mine is now so much better than all of them to drive. No more wallowing suspension or vague steering. It's spot on now.
Previously I had the OE std Sachs shock absorbers on mine with 45k miles on them and they have been absolute crap for the last 22k miles. I have had them on other cars before and they have been just as terrible on those as they have been on my Partner so they haven't improved. A cheap nasty shock absorber brand.
The Bilstein B4 shocks I have now fitted are miles better. My car has only done 44,300 miles. The knocking and clonking started from the suspension at around 22k pretty much from day one when I bought the car. The Peugeot dealer I bought it from didn't want to know, neither did another Peugeot dealer. They both said it was fine because they couldn't CBA to try tp investigate properly, typical A-hole car dealers. So three years of suffering and another 22k miles I decided enough was enough. Talking with a local independent garage who MOTs it, it always passed with no advisories, that likely cause of the knocking and clonking was either worn top mounts and or struts. They wanted a lot of money so supply and fit new units so I thought sod it, have to do it myself and at least it will be done properly!
I think I will change the rear shock absorbers for Bilstein B4 units as well as currently I have the dreadful OE Sachs units still fitted to the rear of my car which are too soft and give terrible damping and handling.
Anyway thanks for making your video even though it was 6 years ago now. It was helpful.
I used to use them spring clamps a lot,I always roped the spring to the strut leg just in case,never had one let go,but always a worry.bought a nice hydraulic one now,they're awesome 👌
GOOD
These are horrible to service