That was a pretty good explanation. You added the part where the front wheels could always turn faster just not slower than the rear as kind of an afterthought, when in reality that is really the most important part and is the entire reason the system works the way it does. Basically the rear differential is actually geared slightly higher than the front differential, so even when you have the button on for four wheel drive the fronts are still not engaging, because the front drive shaft is actually trying to turn the front tires slower than the speed the vehicle is moving. When the rear tires lose traction the vehicle slows down or the RPMs go up (which is the same thing as far as this system is concerned), at which point the front drive shaft is trying to turn the front wheels faster than the vehicle is moving which it's not allowed to do because of the rollers as you explained, so suddenly the fronts are being powered. The key takeaway is that the front tires are never allowed to spin slower than the speed the transmission is trying to move the vehicle, but they can always spin faster. It's a great system because even when it's engaged it's still allows the outside tire to go faster in a turn then the inside tire, because the tires are always allowed to go faster than the gears are trying to turn them just not slower. On the other hand it's not a great system because when going down a hill your engine braking is only braking the rear tires, because the fronts are always moving faster than the transmission is trying to spin them.
Very cool. I believe that other Polaris models have a similar system but they are located independently in each front wheel hub rather than in the differential.
Good explanation of how it works. The unit is not made by Polaris. It is made by Hilliard Corporation, Elmira NY. The little plate @5:45 that helps make the magic is called the "Armature plate".
I don't see you making a video, Whether his talking ability is not up to your standards or not, American SportWorks seems to think his video is very informative and recommends it to their costumers for repair advise. Great job Nathan, Thanks.
It’s basically like a sprag clutch system you find these in automatic transmissions as well... an example of that would be in a Chevy turbo 400 where the original sprag clutch was a weak point but once upgraded it was nearly bulletproof. Very nice explanation!
I’ve been trying for a long time to find out how this differential works and your explanation and how you are showing how it works really made it simple to understand,. Now I don’t have to think about that anymore 😊 Great job and thanks for the explanation 👍🏻
Thank you for making the video to share with us. It's difficult at best to explain a complex set of functions in a short time. You have done a very nice job. We all benefit from it.
Thanks! I just bought a used Sportsman 500, and this is some info I was definitely looking for. I wondered why the shaft going to the front spun, even when I had the switch on 2wd.
One thing that you left out that is crucial to the operation is that the front gear is a different ratio than the rear. With the front locked in and all four spinning, the rear tires will turn 5 times and the fronts 4 times.
That makes more sense as to why it locks up sometimes when you push the button to take it out. And why you need to reverse a little sometimes after. Good explanation.
Very nice! Similar to a fishing reel with an anti reverse. I also have a few ratchets that work on the same principle. Seriously, thanks for sharing this. Without it, I wouldn't have known how it worked.
Great video. I dismantled our diff for new bearings and like you i wanted to know how it worked. I would never have worked that it in a month of Sundays.
that's a really cool explanation! i thought it had sensors but now i know differently. thanks for raking the time to show us how that diff really works!
I think the sensors you hear about are in the active descent control system, and the speed sensor deactivate system. In any case, this system has a lot of faults. The biggest two are that you can't lock the wheels in permanently, and engine braking can't be sent to the front tires unless a separate system (adc) is added. Also, if you want all four tires to pull you up a steep hill that has good traction (like a sandstone obstacle in Moab), this awd system will never engage because the rear tires won't spin faster than the fronts. So you are essentially forced to just have the rear 2 tires pushing only. If you really want 4wd, you have to get a Kawasaki, Yamaha, Suzuki, Arctic Cat, or newer Honda.
I can tell you that if you're going up a hill and your back wheels are not spinning you don't need 4WD- The second the back tires spin even a tiny bit; the fronts will be engaged. You won't feel it engage but look out the front of the door they are engaged & grabbing. If you have enough traction to make it up the hill without spinning no. BUT if then you floor it so the back spins the fronts will immediately start digging! Leave it in 4WD in sand and you will have it. If you want to fart around and just spin shitties just leave the switch off.
There is definitely power to the front in 4wd, my 2006 scrambler had a bad chain so I was replacing it but had to wait a few days and I was able to ride it in 4wd using only the fronts to pull me along. So it definitely does get power to the front on its own, I did however notice in sloppy conditions the front tires can actually spin a bit faster on occasion than the back tires. I've been looking into this 4x4 setup as I'm trying to learn how I can make a 4x4 race quad, using some Polaris parts.
Wow great video thanks for the explanation I have the same machine so I'm learning a lot you are very smart and I appreciate the delivery of this video you explained it very well you are a great help thank you
Hey man excellent job and I appreciate you takin out of your own time to make that video keep up the good work dude. Oh BTW I rarely ever (EVER) leave a comment But dont"t stop shining bro Light It up out there.
My 2000 polaris scrambler 500 is slightly different. Still functions similarly but not exactly the same. It has a front differential "gear box" that is centered between the front wheels. That has a shaft out each side that connects to the CV axel, which connects to the "Hillard clutch" that is located inside the wheel hub assembly. There is some sort of "slip differential" to the system when you are in 2WD. When you are in 2WD and stuck in mud, the front wheel(s) will engage automatically. When you move the selector to "AWD" it will in fact give power to the front and rear wheels at all time. I believe that just one of the front wheels engage at a time but I'm not sure...it my be both. Another way I have seen this work is when the chain popped off the sprocket on the rear wheels. When it did this, the quad was still driving by using the front wheels only, and this was when it's in 2WD. There is nothing broken with it, this is how it work. I saw others comment on seeing just 1 front wheel spin in a video and were concerned there were issues...that's not the case. The person in the video just had it in 2WD and the rear wheels were spinning. The AWD selector locks the front and rear together whether you are spinning or not. I love the system. There really is never any need to set it to AWD, as the quad automatically sends power to the front when needed.
It's called a Hilliard Drive. They're a company in New York State that makes these magnetic locking hubs and differentials for ATV's and other machines. They've been around for over 100 years, check out their website. I can't remember if Polaris buys the whole units from them or just licenses the design to build them.
Also from watching another video. It disengages because the rear wheels spin slightly faster then the front wheels. So that's how it disengages ones you get unstuck. There is a bid of one strapped and on ice. The wheels have a white rah tide to a spoke on each wheel. When he makes the wheels spins ever so slow you can clearly see that that rear wheel spins slightly faster then the front. So once stuck the front hub grabs because the wheels aren't moving and when the back can propel on its own it pushes the front unlocked.
The dealers say it’s perfectly ok to run these machines in AWD all the time. I would think that would cause a lot of wear on the magnetic parts of this system.
It makes sense. I am considering buying my first Polaris side by side and salesmen keep telling me when the back wheel spins the distance between two wheel lugs it engages the front wheel. One salesman said he has sold over 1200 machines and I,m the first guy who is asking such questions that I,m asking. I told him how can I buy a machine and not be able to picture how it works. However your video makes more sense in 14 minutes then hours trying to talk to different salesmen. So are there any wheel sensors on the 570 Ranger ? Great job on video. Glenn from Newfoundland Canada.
Close but not exactly right. Your front diff is geared so the front diff spins slower than the rear and the axles, when the power is not applied and when traction is good. When in AWD and the rear wheel spins a fraction (5degrees) the differential catches up to the axle speed and because of the drag caused between the electro magnet and the armature plate the rollers run up on the ramps lock-in the hub to the axle.
Appreciate the explanation, but, I can't figure out whats wrong with my on damand AWD still yet. My 05 Polaris Sportsman 500 H.O. has this 4WD style system, the dash pod lights up with the 4wd indicator, but, the rear tires will spin, sometimes up to 25/30 mph before the front tires will engage, and when it happens it's violent. I was stuck yesterday, pushed the "4wd" button, in forward Lo, and gradually gave it gas, front tires didn't pull. So I increased throttle and they finally came in and pulled. Not sure what to do to correct this? Any input is appreciated sir. Thanks
Great video, i understand how this system works a little more now, but can anyone explain why my front diff engages when switch is in 2 WD, and the rear wheels are spinning in snow? could it be worn front diff parts causing it to engage without the coil being activated?
great video, i was having issues with mine going in, was a grounding issue now it will not come out of 4x4. Why would it be stuck in 4x4 if mag is energized? Any ideas?
Thank you for this video. I’m about to take on a project with my sportsman 500 HO. My issue is, it seems that my front wheel, hub, brake, something is causing my front right to drag and lock up on me, pulling me to the right. I can fight it and force it left sometimes. Other times, I can pop a wheelie and it will free up the bind. I’m not sure what’s on the inside of this unit that could be giving me this problem. So your video will definitely help. 👍🙏
I have a very similar issue with my 500 xplorer, except its my left front hanging up causing it to push right, i think its all in my hub assembly also but the parts haven't cone in yet, would love to here if you got it fixed and what was wrong
Kyle Maples, so when I took the wheel off the hub, the assembly was all rusted and seized. For several days I sprayed it with penetrating fluid, mystery oil, atf, and beat on it. It finally broke free an I disassembled the hub and removed the axle assembly from the hub. I soaked all the parts that were in the hub for another day, in mystery oil. Old tooth brush and a rag, scrubbed everything really well. Cleaned up great. Whipped it all dry and reassembled, put atf in hub and drove around. All works great on the right side now. Seals leak, so I’ll replace those soon, before I go ride of course. Feels like my left side is dragging too, so I’ll repeat the process and order inner and outer seals for both sides. Taking everything apart and cleaning seemed to do the trick though. There is another video I watched as well. He’s in Alaska. Great information 👍
@@jasonkeith674 cool thanks, that makes me think I'm right about mine, ordered a whole hub rebuild kit with new bearings, races, clutch, and seal. When I took mine apart there was no fluid just sludgey rust with alot of metal shaving, should be getting the parts today and going to put them in this weekend, thanks for the reply
Kyle Maples good deal man. I bought a new axle assembly before tearing into it. Not knowing any better of course. Turns out for the right side I just need seals. It was dry when I popped the cap. Hopefully left side just needs cleaning. It was full of fluid when I popped the cap. Just grungy. I ordered my axle from East Lake Axle. I’ll probably get my seals and some just in case bearings as well. I’m still trying to remember the Alaska guy’s name. He has great videos
I believe the technical name would be a, magnetically engaged sprague clutch. The more common version of a sprague clutch is centrifugally or mechanically engaged. Sprague clutches have been around for a long time, Polaris definitely didn't invent the concept. Probably the most common example that most people have experienced a sprague clutch in day to day life is a pull starter. If you have ever started a lawnmower, leaf blower, weed wacker, chainsaw, etc, you have most likely used a sprague clutch. Informative video though. I always thought the front prop shaft was driven by the front and engaged 4wd at the transmission, similar to a modern trucks shift on the fly 4wd system locking the front and rear via the t-case. Now I know.
I don’t have any comments but I do have a question. My question is this. What do you think of the AWD system? Basically how strong is that magnet? Does it slip when under load
Good system or is traditional 4x4 better??? in terms of reliability seems like it would be best to engage 4x4 while theirs no power going to wheels. Also if you have your front wheels pinned up against a rock or a log your going to have to slip your back tires for the front wheels to clim up over the obstacle. Just shopping for a new ATV and trying to do my research!
Great video! I have a 2014 Sportsman 550 X2 the issue I am having is my 550 has no 4-wheel drive while going forward but as soon as I go in reverse 4 wheel drive works. I saw this video and was hoping i can figure out what's going on, if anyone can help me with this issue it would be greatly appreciated.
My bike sounds like it's missing a gear in 2wd or it's lost bearing, but when I click the switch in to 4wheel drive system on its not as bad ....how do I find this problem its sounds like its the front but not sure ....help me plz!! Thank you in advance !!
This system is not rock solid. The speedometer controls the coils circuit. It's suppose to keep it from energizing when engine rpm is over 3000. The speedo can malfunction and only engage after 3000 rpm and blow up the differential.
That was a pretty good explanation. You added the part where the front wheels could always turn faster just not slower than the rear as kind of an afterthought, when in reality that is really the most important part and is the entire reason the system works the way it does. Basically the rear differential is actually geared slightly higher than the front differential, so even when you have the button on for four wheel drive the fronts are still not engaging, because the front drive shaft is actually trying to turn the front tires slower than the speed the vehicle is moving. When the rear tires lose traction the vehicle slows down or the RPMs go up (which is the same thing as far as this system is concerned), at which point the front drive shaft is trying to turn the front wheels faster than the vehicle is moving which it's not allowed to do because of the rollers as you explained, so suddenly the fronts are being powered.
The key takeaway is that the front tires are never allowed to spin slower than the speed the transmission is trying to move the vehicle, but they can always spin faster.
It's a great system because even when it's engaged it's still allows the outside tire to go faster in a turn then the inside tire, because the tires are always allowed to go faster than the gears are trying to turn them just not slower.
On the other hand it's not a great system because when going down a hill your engine braking is only braking the rear tires, because the fronts are always moving faster than the transmission is trying to spin them.
agree with you,what can cause the front wheel to lock up?even this differential broke, it will not lock the front wheel, but drive the front wheel
Also people get in trouble buying tires of different heights, then can't figure out why 4wd don't work right.
6 years later this is still the best video to explain how it works
3 years later your information is still helping people
Very cool. I believe that other Polaris models have a similar system but they are located independently in each front wheel hub rather than in the differential.
Good explanation of how it works. The unit is not made by Polaris. It is made by Hilliard Corporation, Elmira NY. The little plate @5:45 that helps make the magic is called the "Armature plate".
Nice job explaining how this works. I enjoy people who take the time to figure out how things work and then help others to understand.
I don't see you making a video, Whether his talking ability is not up to your standards or not, American SportWorks seems to think his video is very informative and recommends it to their costumers for repair advise. Great job Nathan, Thanks.
A little long but if paying attention, it comes to ya. Good job. You helped a lot of people understand it.
Awesome demo, the best explanation I've found on how these Polaris AWD systems work, thanks.
It’s basically like a sprag clutch system you find these in automatic transmissions as well... an example of that would be in a Chevy turbo 400 where the original sprag clutch was a weak point but once upgraded it was nearly bulletproof. Very nice explanation!
I’ve been trying for a long time to find out how this differential works and your explanation and how you are showing how it works really made it simple to understand,.
Now I don’t have to think about that anymore 😊
Great job and thanks for the explanation 👍🏻
Thank you for making the video to share with us. It's difficult at best to explain a complex set of functions in a short time. You have done a very nice job. We all benefit from it.
Thanks! I just bought a used Sportsman 500, and this is some info I was definitely looking for. I wondered why the shaft going to the front spun, even when I had the switch on 2wd.
One thing that you left out that is crucial to the operation is that the front gear is a different ratio than the rear. With the front locked in and all four spinning, the rear tires will turn 5 times and the fronts 4 times.
Thanks a lot for the knowledge that you have provided. I was curious how on demand differential work. Now I know.
That makes more sense as to why it locks up sometimes when you push the button to take it out. And why you need to reverse a little sometimes after. Good explanation.
YOU are a superstar. If you’re passing Oxfordshire, UK: I owe you a drink. 👍🏻
I think you did a good job of explaining the function of the Polaris Demand Drive and I already knew how it worked. It made sense to me. Thanks.
Thank you thank you. Couldn’t find anyone including my mechanic friends who could explain this to me.
Very nice! Similar to a fishing reel with an anti reverse. I also have a few ratchets that work on the same principle.
Seriously, thanks for sharing this. Without it, I wouldn't have known how it worked.
I have a lot better knowledge of how this works now. Hands on is the best way to explain how things work. Thanks
Great video. I dismantled our diff for new bearings and like you i wanted to know how it worked. I would never have worked that it in a month of Sundays.
Very Good! I was wondering how my AWD was locked in with the switch off. Now I know where to start looking. Thank you.
that's a really cool explanation! i thought it had sensors but now i know differently. thanks for raking the time to show us how that diff really works!
nice vid, its a sprag that has an interesting way of being activated. pretty cool.
I think the sensors you hear about are in the active descent control system, and the speed sensor deactivate system.
In any case, this system has a lot of faults. The biggest two are that you can't lock the wheels in permanently, and engine braking can't be sent to the front tires unless a separate system (adc) is added.
Also, if you want all four tires to pull you up a steep hill that has good traction (like a sandstone obstacle in Moab), this awd system will never engage because the rear tires won't spin faster than the fronts. So you are essentially forced to just have the rear 2 tires pushing only.
If you really want 4wd, you have to get a Kawasaki, Yamaha, Suzuki, Arctic Cat, or newer Honda.
I can tell you that if you're going up a hill and your back wheels are not spinning you don't need 4WD-
The second the back tires spin even a tiny bit; the fronts will be engaged. You won't feel it engage but look out the front of the door they are engaged & grabbing. If you have enough traction to make it up the hill without spinning no. BUT if then you floor it so the back spins the fronts will immediately start digging! Leave it in 4WD in sand and you will have it. If you want to fart around and just spin shitties just leave the switch off.
Suzuki king quad 750. Good wheeler. I’ve had a few Polaris & they worked well but there are to many times that the diff lock is needed
Very good explanation of an extremely complex system.
Great explanation! Thanks for showing us how this works!!
This video has aged well. Thanks for sharing.
Good vid!
Sounds like it works the same way as a one way starter clutch.
Great job. That cleared up some confusion on my part as to how that really works.
Great video man! Excellent explanation of how the front diff works!
this is a great video... thank you for taking the time my man. I appreciate it.
Great explanation. I love how ppl have smart A$$ comments but apparently do not understand how the system works, Hence they are watching your video.
There is definitely power to the front in 4wd, my 2006 scrambler had a bad chain so I was replacing it but had to wait a few days and I was able to ride it in 4wd using only the fronts to pull me along. So it definitely does get power to the front on its own, I did however notice in sloppy conditions the front tires can actually spin a bit faster on occasion than the back tires. I've been looking into this 4x4 setup as I'm trying to learn how I can make a 4x4 race quad, using some Polaris parts.
Wow great video thanks for the explanation I have the same machine so I'm learning a lot you are very smart and I appreciate the delivery of this video you explained it very well you are a great help thank you
Yup- good explanation. surprisingly simple system but obviously very effective- Thank You!!
That’s incredible engineering
Great video explaining how it works. Good job😊
FREAKIN' EXCELLENT! Best explanation I've ever heard. Thank you!
Good job on the video explaining the workings.
Thank you so much. I greatly appreciate the info since I am a newbie to this polaris rzr world. Great job.
Well well explained in my opinion.
thanks. that puts to words and demonstration what i was thinking might be happening. good job
That was great information i was always wondering how that engaged.. thanks
Your mind works like mine. I got it. Wonder explanation, thanks.
Hey man excellent job and I appreciate you takin out of your own time to make that video keep up the good work dude. Oh BTW I rarely ever (EVER) leave a comment But dont"t stop shining bro Light It up out there.
Nice! I like this AWD system. It looks strong.
My 2000 polaris scrambler 500 is slightly different. Still functions similarly but not exactly the same. It has a front differential "gear box" that is centered between the front wheels. That has a shaft out each side that connects to the CV axel, which connects to the "Hillard clutch" that is located inside the wheel hub assembly. There is some sort of "slip differential" to the system when you are in 2WD. When you are in 2WD and stuck in mud, the front wheel(s) will engage automatically. When you move the selector to "AWD" it will in fact give power to the front and rear wheels at all time. I believe that just one of the front wheels engage at a time but I'm not sure...it my be both.
Another way I have seen this work is when the chain popped off the sprocket on the rear wheels. When it did this, the quad was still driving by using the front wheels only, and this was when it's in 2WD. There is nothing broken with it, this is how it work. I saw others comment on seeing just 1 front wheel spin in a video and were concerned there were issues...that's not the case. The person in the video just had it in 2WD and the rear wheels were spinning. The AWD selector locks the front and rear together whether you are spinning or not. I love the system. There really is never any need to set it to AWD, as the quad automatically sends power to the front when needed.
Good job brother!!!!!!! You explained it perfectly
Wow. Good info. That’s a very ingenious system.
Love this video! Thank you for explaining
It's called a Hilliard Drive. They're a company in New York State that makes these magnetic locking hubs and differentials for ATV's and other machines. They've been around for over 100 years, check out their website. I can't remember if Polaris buys the whole units from them or just licenses the design to build them.
Excellent explanation. Thank you.
Wow. You made that make total sense. Thank you so much!
Great video! My spline had some play in it... Digging in this weekend
I like that setup. I like polaris more now.
Well done, sir. Thank you. Couldn't find this information anywhere else. I'm assuming they carried a similar system into the new RZRs.
Also from watching another video. It disengages because the rear wheels spin slightly faster then the front wheels. So that's how it disengages ones you get unstuck. There is a bid of one strapped and on ice. The wheels have a white rah tide to a spoke on each wheel. When he makes the wheels spins ever so slow you can clearly see that that rear wheel spins slightly faster then the front. So once stuck the front hub grabs because the wheels aren't moving and when the back can propel on its own it pushes the front unlocked.
Jerome Ponder well said 👍
Very helpful! Thank you!! About to rebuild one!
Nice thorough explaining 👍
NICE! Love the explanation, thanks!
The dealers say it’s perfectly ok to run these machines in AWD all the time. I would think that would cause a lot of wear on the magnetic parts of this system.
Definitely more friction as you see gas consumption go up noticeably when you stay in 4WD
Thank you for this explanation, very clear
this video was really helpful and and very well explained thanks!
Good job explaining that, thanks!
super great video i understand how it works now
It makes sense. I am considering buying my first Polaris side by side and salesmen keep telling me when the back wheel spins the distance between two wheel lugs it engages the front wheel. One salesman said he has sold over 1200 machines and I,m the first guy who is asking such questions that I,m asking. I told him how can I buy a machine and not be able to picture how it works. However your video makes more sense in 14 minutes then hours trying to talk to different salesmen. So are there any wheel sensors on the 570 Ranger ? Great job on video. Glenn from Newfoundland Canada.
I, too, am dumbfounded by salespeople with insufficient product knowledge.
It’s like an actuated one way bearing, kind of. Very helpful video, thanks.
Close but not exactly right. Your front diff is geared so the front diff spins slower than the rear and the axles, when the power is not applied and when traction is good. When in AWD and the rear wheel spins a fraction (5degrees) the differential catches up to the axle speed and because of the drag caused between the electro magnet and the armature plate the rollers run up on the ramps lock-in the hub to the axle.
Awesome explanation! Thanks
Nice thank you for that, appreciate it.
WOW EXCELLENT VIDEO, NOW I KNOW HOW IT WORK,, THANK'S
Good job, thanks.
Great explanation
Good explanation. Useful information thank you
Great video man. Thanks for posting.
Appreciate the explanation, but, I can't figure out whats wrong with my on damand AWD still yet. My 05 Polaris Sportsman 500 H.O. has this 4WD style system, the dash pod lights up with the 4wd indicator, but, the rear tires will spin, sometimes up to 25/30 mph before the front tires will engage, and when it happens it's violent. I was stuck yesterday, pushed the "4wd" button, in forward Lo, and gradually gave it gas, front tires didn't pull. So I increased throttle and they finally came in and pulled. Not sure what to do to correct this? Any input is appreciated sir. Thanks
Hello did You find the solution? I have that problem but My does not emgage
Great video, i understand how this system works a little more now, but can anyone explain why my front diff engages when switch is in 2 WD, and the rear wheels are spinning in snow? could it be worn front diff parts causing it to engage without the coil being activated?
Hello, good video explanation, question if in dash ligths on the 4wd it means working? Or it can be ider not working
This video save me a lot money
great video, i was having issues with mine going in, was a grounding issue now it will not come out of 4x4. Why would it be stuck in 4x4 if mag is energized? Any ideas?
I’m currently having the same issue
Have you find the problem ? I have the same probleme.
Same issues, fix for this??
Also having the same issue.
Well hot damn , joe dirt... very informative ty.
Thank you for this video. I’m about to take on a project with my sportsman 500 HO.
My issue is, it seems that my front wheel, hub, brake, something is causing my front right to drag and lock up on me, pulling me to the right. I can fight it and force it left sometimes. Other times, I can pop a wheelie and it will free up the bind. I’m not sure what’s on the inside of this unit that could be giving me this problem. So your video will definitely help. 👍🙏
I have a very similar issue with my 500 xplorer, except its my left front hanging up causing it to push right, i think its all in my hub assembly also but the parts haven't cone in yet, would love to here if you got it fixed and what was wrong
Kyle Maples, so when I took the wheel off the hub, the assembly was all rusted and seized. For several days I sprayed it with penetrating fluid, mystery oil, atf, and beat on it. It finally broke free an I disassembled the hub and removed the axle assembly from the hub. I soaked all the parts that were in the hub for another day, in mystery oil. Old tooth brush and a rag, scrubbed everything really well. Cleaned up great. Whipped it all dry and reassembled, put atf in hub and drove around. All works great on the right side now. Seals leak, so I’ll replace those soon, before I go ride of course. Feels like my left side is dragging too, so I’ll repeat the process and order inner and outer seals for both sides. Taking everything apart and cleaning seemed to do the trick though. There is another video I watched as well. He’s in Alaska. Great information 👍
@@jasonkeith674 cool thanks, that makes me think I'm right about mine, ordered a whole hub rebuild kit with new bearings, races, clutch, and seal. When I took mine apart there was no fluid just sludgey rust with alot of metal shaving, should be getting the parts today and going to put them in this weekend, thanks for the reply
Kyle Maples good deal man. I bought a new axle assembly before tearing into it. Not knowing any better of course. Turns out for the right side I just need seals. It was dry when I popped the cap. Hopefully left side just needs cleaning. It was full of fluid when I popped the cap. Just grungy. I ordered my axle from East Lake Axle. I’ll probably get my seals and some just in case bearings as well. I’m still trying to remember the Alaska guy’s name. He has great videos
Kyle Maples look up, Erik in Alaska. 👍👍
I believe the technical name would be a, magnetically engaged sprague clutch. The more common version of a sprague clutch is centrifugally or mechanically engaged. Sprague clutches have been around for a long time, Polaris definitely didn't invent the concept.
Probably the most common example that most people have experienced a sprague clutch in day to day life is a pull starter. If you have ever started a lawnmower, leaf blower, weed wacker, chainsaw, etc, you have most likely used a sprague clutch.
Informative video though. I always thought the front prop shaft was driven by the front and engaged 4wd at the transmission, similar to a modern trucks shift on the fly 4wd system locking the front and rear via the t-case. Now I know.
Hell yah thank you sir..
Thank You Sir!
I don’t have any comments but I do have a question. My question is this. What do you think of the AWD system? Basically how strong is that magnet? Does it slip when under load
So if 1 tires spins but the other one don't is that a broken magnetic plate is the 2 of them plates one for each side
Good system or is traditional 4x4 better??? in terms of reliability seems like it would be best to engage 4x4 while theirs no power going to wheels. Also if you have your front wheels pinned up against a rock or a log your going to have to slip your back tires for the front wheels to clim up over the obstacle. Just shopping for a new ATV and trying to do my research!
Thanks mate, it made good sense.
Good job. Bro, how about polaris ranger 800. Its totally different. It senses a slip and puts power to the front tires regardless if in 1wd 2wd or 4wd
Video helped out a bunch also I can't find how tight supposed to adjust the screw for the plate that goes up against the diff gear any idea on that?
Great video! I have a 2014 Sportsman 550 X2 the issue I am having is my 550 has no 4-wheel drive while going forward but as soon as I go in reverse 4 wheel drive works. I saw this video and was hoping i can figure out what's going on, if anyone can help me with this issue it would be greatly appreciated.
My bike sounds like it's missing a gear in 2wd or it's lost bearing, but when I click the switch in to 4wheel drive system on its not as bad ....how do I find this problem its sounds like its the front but not sure ....help me plz!! Thank you in advance !!
Great Job
This system is not rock solid. The speedometer controls the coils circuit. It's suppose to keep it from energizing when engine rpm is over 3000. The speedo can malfunction and only engage after 3000 rpm and blow up the differential.
The rear wheels actually spin faster than the front wheels. The front wheels only engage when the rears are slipping.
Thanks Nathan.
what is the set screw that has a magnet on it for and how do you adjust it