Help real invention, Info & discovery with BUY ME A COFFEE at www.buymeacoffee.com/JOHNDANIEL *FIX idle/running problems with Briggs & Stratton most years, Here's THE Exact ORing KIT Briggs Carb repair, Dual fix: ORings ebay.us/uzi3cg + NEW Fuel Pump & Filter ebay.us/WYCxvo OEM Parts + B&S Twin repair Manual amzn.to/2rdRWAR for all answers and facts. UPDATED ------ ⬇ Add the complete L.G. BRANDON ENERGY DISASTER SURVIVAL POWER SYSTEM -- 100 Watt Panels (12) ebay.us/Zla5aq , Affordable durable solar controllers pick (2)60A ebay.us/pODwA7 ,Solar Connects amzn.to/2XJOa1M ,Battery cable USA made amzn.to/3h6dsim ,12/2 Above/Underground amzn.to/2XIJolg for safe DC wiring of lights and appliances. Cheap Inverter with proven 5+ year records of quality - 3000 watt ebay.us/YEaTX9 for tool, high amp, fine electronics, and start up use. ✨LITHIUM BATTERIES LiFePO4 Power Queen premium 12.8 volt shrsl.com/3kfqh or amzn.to/3QfOY7T & REDODO 100A amp hour Workhorse Battery amzn.to/3dlHT7d UNOWIX Defender 100A amzn.to/3QB9nno DC watt power meters (2 sizes) ebay.us/lIoioF OR 200A amzn.to/3xBHKE0 SWI Inverter with proven 5+ year record of quality 3000 watt ebay.us/YEaTX9 Most Efficient Window AC made, TAOTRONICS TT-AC003 8,000 BTU A/C unit shrsl.com/3n37v Affordable High Grade lithium Battery Controller BMS 60 to 500 amp s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dd6f1Wr [Briggs & Stratton Nikki V Twin Jet & Transfer Tube O-Ring Service Kit] & [ FUEL PUMP REPLACES BRIGGS AND STRATTON 808656 INCLUDES FUEL FILTER 695666] pump for BRIGGS & STRATTON / KOHLER POWERED CRAFTSMAN RIDING LAWN MOWER / GARDEN TRACTOR / LAWN TRACTOR Replacement pump is for these and more: KOHLER 24 393 04-S KOHLER/24 393 16-S KOHLER 24 393 16-S BRIGGS & STRATTON 491922 BRIGGS & STRATTON 808656 JOHN DEERE LG808656 JOHN DEERE M138498 JOHN DEERE M145667 KAWASAKI 49040-7001 DIXI CHOPPER 24 393 04-s HONDA 16700-ZL8-013 Mikuni Part no: 808492 Fit Follow Models: Briggs & Stratton: 28B702, 28B707, 28M707, 28N707, 28P777, 28Q777, 351442 and 351447 Kawasaki: 15 thru 25 HP engines Kohler: CH17-CH25, CV17-CV25, CH730-CH740 and CV730-CV740; for 17 HP thru 25 HP engines Fuel Filter Specs: Fits 1/4" fuel line Filter Size: 1 1/2" OD X 4 1/2" LONG （Fit both A 1/4" X 5/16" ID Fuel Line）
There's also a special o ring under that tube that holds the little main jets, and then behind the throttle butterfly there's a black plastic block and behind that there's a rectangular gasket with holes in it and they will swell up
I want to thank you 4 getting do the root of the problem.. seems like every time I tried to look up an engine fix on TH-cam before they get to the fix they go on and on and on about stuff that doesn't have anything to do with the fix thank you again
Thanks man. I was about to replace the carburetor but replacing these rings solved it for like $5. Still surging at full throttle, oh well. Doesn't really matter when I'm moving with the cutter engaged.
I picked up a intek 24 hp with an aftermarket carburetor on it The carburetor is in good shape very clean having issues with it running lean is there anyway to adjust the air fuel mixture?
Oops, those jets looked the same to me, what happens if mix them? After assembling my carburetor my choke won't start the engine cold or hot. I now have to poor some fuel down the carburetor to start it, is that the jets? Thanks.
I replaced the o-rings, fuel pump, fuel filter and spark plugs. Still surges at 3/4 throttle. It did help eliminate the backfiring. The carb was replaced a year ago with an oem one and ran fine up till recently. The old o-rings didn't look too bad. What else could cause the surging?
I I have a question about the carburetor. it’s a two barrel carburetor set up. each barrel goes to one cylinder. When you remove the bowl the Jets along with the siphon tube to me it looks like you have two primary jets and two main Jets each set does one cylinder. if you follow all the valleys and journals through the top plate where the main’s dump fuel into each individual barrel there’s only one place for the fuel to go one side or the other. Being that said I was a little confused when you said the top main Jets are different sizes and I was wondering why that might be being that each/Individual jet looks to be dedicated to one cylinder only. was wondering why there would be two different size jets if that’s the case?
I have a question about ignition coils I'm hoping you can answer. My B&S 6.75 HP push mower starts okay, but sounds as if the throttle is on low, if you know what I mean. One day it's running fine, the next day it's like this now. I checked all the usual suspects, carb, fuel line, air filter, even the flywheel key to make sure it wasn't broken, and all of those seem fine. I saw a video about coils and where they should be OHM level-wise (between 2.5 and 5.0), and using my multi-meter, my coil read a level of 6.4. Like I said, mower starts fine, but doesn't seem to be performing like before. Most people I've talked to about this say a bad coil only affects the starting ability, not the performance. Do you have any info about this? I'm trying to fix the problem. Thanks.
Replace coil. They get worse with heat and if it's over 4.7 and packing that way you have a coil going bad or possibly a condensor. So I'd say do a coil-condensor-points type Tune up and be sure to replace spark plug with new coil.
@@PrepperMountainSolutions - I hope you can help me again. I ordered a coil from an Amazon seller who had good reviews. Shipment was fast. I tested the coil first, and it tested at 5.9 Ohms. I went ahead and installed, even though I figured it wouldn't correct my problem. It didn't, sounded the exact same way. I have ordered 2 more coils from different sellers, and again, they were above 5.9, one was even at 6.5. I installed just to check, and again, no difference. I spoke to a Briggs and Stratton rep on the phone, and they said if the mower is starting and giving a spark, the coil is fine. They told me they have no specifications on coils for push mowers, so checking Ohm level is a waste of time. No wonder people end up chucking their mowers away, when it doesn't seem most "experts" don't have a clue how to fix. My question to you is this, is it hard to find new coils that are within the range I'm looking for these days? Maybe the model # coil for this mower is just made poorly, I have no idea why it is hard finding one that works.
Mice love to build their next up in these, blocking cooling air and causing overheating. A design feature, I think. Backfiring - Mine backfires, I suspect the muffler is rusted with a hole in it. Too bad I couldn't hear this one running, for comparison. There are at least two types of carburetors used on these, one has a single main jet and it's not my favorite carb.
Most backfires and surge problems are fixed on intek engines by replacing the fuel solenoid attached to the bottom of the carburator.You must have a older mower.Plus,the carbs for these engines are so cheap why not just buy a new one.They range from $30-40.
if you buy a brand new carburetor it will be made in China and I suggest opening it up and cleaning out all the metal shavings parts and casting flakes of metal before using it.
Great vid man! So I did exactly what you did in the vid. Ran the mower today and everything was fine until about an hour in cutting and it started to misfire. Any suggestions? It ran really smooth until that point. Once it sits for a few minutes. It runs fine again.
I changed out my carberutor and now it seems to only run when I turn key to off position and then it turns off. When I turn to on position it will run like it wants to cut off
@@PrepperMountainSolutions I have a lawnmower that only gets power when I have the battery charger connected I just replaced the battery a week ago any suggestions?
Thanks for the video, helpful information. Steadier camera work & little slower narration would make it easier to follow what you're doing. I know, everyone is a critic. Just a thought. Seriously though, my thanks for having your video out here saving me some bucks!
Len Cranston preventative maintenance more than likely. Already planned to take it all apart, so may as well throw on a $7 part for good measure. I completely agree with that reasoning, but instead of buying the kit and misc pieces, I opted to simply buy a brand new carb for my 27hp Briggs. Should be here by this weekend. I plan to swap that, along with checking and adjusting the valves, and changing the fuel filter. One thing to keep a very close eye on, the spark plugs. Even though they have the gaskets to help prevent backing out, I had one backed roughly half way out. I put in new plugs and the engine runs really good. But I keep having an issue with high idle when warmed up. Hoping the new carb resolves it.
I have a 540cc 21 HP Briggs and Stratton engine. It started cutting off when I engaged the blades and when I took my foot off the clutch/brake. I changed the oil, fuel, all filters (oil,fuel and air), spark plug replaced the car with brand new and also changed the fuel pump. Prior to me doing all that work if it sat at idle it would run very smooth. Now it spits and back fires at idle and still shuts off when I try to engage blades or take foot off clutch/brake. If anyone can help me I would greatly appreciate it. Stumped in Memphis.
Hello, And thank you for your video ! I am almost embarrassed to say that we are a professional repair facility, but, we are nonetheless ! Have replaced the original carburetor with a new factory Briggs Carb. Still we continue to surge ! If I take the governor out of the equation, the engine will run up to the moon and back ! Old carb, new carb, makes absolutely no difference ! Making us completely crazy ! Welcome any suggestions ! We're flat out of ideas !
Vacuum. Check vacuum to carb/intake and to fuel pump. Often a warped intake or Vac boot. Governor removed will allow a small leak to be surpassed by high RPM to keep fuel supply up.
@quadsman11 ….if I may…be certain your vacuum hose/PCV setup is on and not cracked or leaking. The only other thing that enters my brain is possible leaking crank seal(s)? Just throwing that out there. Test by spaying ether or wd 40 at the seals while running the best you can.
Dang I have less than 50 hours on my 3 year old mower, maybe sitting so long still damaged the o-rings. Started up fine, then after a few minutes started surging
GOOD ONE knocked the laces of this vid !!! always like to go over in my muttled mind before I start then watch youtube if I can find good one the visual helps. If done by someone who knows what they're doing, and talking about. THANKS (looked like corn gas no stabilizers old fuel etc...)
I have same mower. Runs perfect on low or medium throttle but sputters and backfires slightly at high throttle. That rules out valves since it runs perfect at low throttle and medium throttle. So I checked spark by removing the spark plug wire on one of the cylinders and it was sparking and it also started misfiring like it should. Here's the kicker... I removed the other spark plug wire and it started running perfect. With only one cylinder firing it runs perfect. Everytime I hook that one spark plug wire back up it runs crappy. What could that be.
If you're talking about the carburetor, replace it. Do a tune-up if it hasn't been done in awhile. Check the valve adjustment if adjustable. Check the compression. Check the spindle bearings and blades. Change the oil and filter.
Wow, I can't believe you tore the carb down that far without checking the flat rubber gasket with 7 holes in it behind the butterflies. It has tiny holes that swell shut and cause issues. Behind the butterflies there's a black plastic part that is held on with a phillips head screw. The rubber gasket is behind it. It will drive you crazy if the holes in it swell shut.
I've had a hell of a time with mine, Briggs V twin, looks exactly like this. Same springs but the bigger one just seemed useless, and nothing would get the throttle to return all the way back to idle. I had to bend the arm with the linkage to the carb butterfly way up, then I totally removed the big spring, and had to replace the bottom spring with a smaller lighter tension one. I dunno how t** f*** its supposed to work like in the video here but mine had me losing my s*** all day till I just made it do what it is supposed to regardless. The governor part is correct though. You want to set it when the carb and everything is mounted and at full throttle, then turn clockwise & tighten like it says.
@@supertitan21 It could be a sheared key or coil problems. Check the spark plugs. Check the compression or cylinder leakdown. It could be a leaking valve. Check the blades if they're bent. Hook up a car timing light to the plug wire and a battery and see if it has consistent spark.
The link to the Orings, also will pull up options for the other 3 or more Carburetors used from that guy making the fix kits. Just go to the oring link, see his store near his name, he has probably 5 to 6 kits. AND he a old guy from Arkansas who will reply to questions.
Help real invention, Info & discovery with BUY ME A COFFEE at www.buymeacoffee.com/JOHNDANIEL *FIX idle/running problems with Briggs & Stratton most years, Here's THE Exact ORing KIT Briggs Carb repair, Dual fix: ORings ebay.us/uzi3cg + NEW Fuel Pump & Filter ebay.us/WYCxvo OEM Parts + B&S Twin repair Manual amzn.to/2rdRWAR for all answers and facts.
UPDATED ------
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Cheap Inverter with proven 5+ year records of quality - 3000 watt ebay.us/YEaTX9 for tool, high amp, fine electronics, and start up use.
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[Briggs & Stratton Nikki V Twin Jet & Transfer Tube O-Ring Service Kit]
&
[ FUEL PUMP REPLACES BRIGGS AND STRATTON 808656 INCLUDES FUEL FILTER 695666] pump for BRIGGS & STRATTON / KOHLER POWERED CRAFTSMAN RIDING LAWN MOWER / GARDEN TRACTOR / LAWN TRACTOR
Replacement pump is for these and more:
KOHLER 24 393 04-S
KOHLER/24 393 16-S
KOHLER 24 393 16-S
BRIGGS & STRATTON 491922
BRIGGS & STRATTON 808656
JOHN DEERE LG808656
JOHN DEERE M138498
JOHN DEERE M145667
KAWASAKI 49040-7001
DIXI CHOPPER 24 393 04-s
HONDA 16700-ZL8-013
Mikuni Part no: 808492
Fit Follow Models:
Briggs & Stratton: 28B702, 28B707, 28M707, 28N707, 28P777, 28Q777, 351442 and 351447
Kawasaki: 15 thru 25 HP engines
Kohler: CH17-CH25, CV17-CV25, CH730-CH740 and CV730-CV740; for 17 HP thru 25 HP engines
Fuel Filter Specs: Fits 1/4" fuel line
Filter Size: 1 1/2" OD X 4 1/2" LONG （Fit both A 1/4" X 5/16" ID Fuel Line）
There's also a special o ring under that tube that holds the little main jets, and then behind the throttle butterfly there's a black plastic block and behind that there's a rectangular gasket with holes in it and they will swell up
I want to thank you 4 getting do the root of the problem.. seems like every time I tried to look up an engine fix on TH-cam before they get to the fix they go on and on and on about stuff that doesn't have anything to do with the fix thank you again
Can you post numbers on package for o ring parts.
Thanks man. I was about to replace the carburetor but replacing these rings solved it for like $5. Still surging at full throttle, oh well. Doesn't really matter when I'm moving with the cutter engaged.
Nicholas Boyarko might be ya governer check spring is on if so,check for play....with engine off,on full throttle,should have lil to no play!
Hey Prepper, the jets that you said to take out one at a time fell out. How do i know which is which? Trial and error?
Wow! That’s a thorough tutorial! Lotsa quick clips and tips! Great presentation and clear, articulate instruction! I’ll be back. Thanks!
I picked up a intek 24 hp with an aftermarket carburetor on it The carburetor is in good shape very clean having issues with it running lean is there anyway to adjust the air fuel mixture?
Oops, those jets looked the same to me, what happens if mix them? After assembling my carburetor my choke won't start the engine cold or hot. I now have to poor some fuel down the carburetor to start it, is that the jets? Thanks.
What makes it smoke
Mine will not run at all with out the choke on. First thing I noticed is that oring was all jacked up just like yours. Going to order a set.
I replaced the o-rings, fuel pump, fuel filter and spark plugs. Still surges at 3/4 throttle. It did help eliminate the backfiring. The carb was replaced a year ago with an oem one and ran fine up till recently. The old o-rings didn't look too bad. What else could cause the surging?
The surging has stopped. I guess the fuel system needed to stabilize. Had to run it a
while.
Check your valves intake and exhaust I think it calls for 4thousands or in between 3-5
I I have a question about the carburetor. it’s a two barrel carburetor set up. each barrel goes to one cylinder. When you remove the bowl the Jets along with the siphon tube to me it looks like you have two primary jets and two main Jets each set does one cylinder. if you follow all the valleys and journals through the top plate where the main’s dump fuel into each individual barrel there’s only one place for the fuel to go one side or the other. Being that said I was a little confused when you said the top main Jets are different sizes and I was wondering why that might be being that each/Individual jet looks to be dedicated to one cylinder only. was wondering why there would be two different size jets if that’s the case?
2 bbl mid combined intake plume. 5 cm open in the runner
I have a question about ignition coils I'm hoping you can answer. My B&S 6.75 HP push mower starts okay, but sounds as if the throttle is on low, if you know what I mean. One day it's running fine, the next day it's like this now. I checked all the usual suspects, carb, fuel line, air filter, even the flywheel key to make sure it wasn't broken, and all of those seem fine. I saw a video about coils and where they should be OHM level-wise (between 2.5 and 5.0), and using my multi-meter, my coil read a level of 6.4. Like I said, mower starts fine, but doesn't seem to be performing like before. Most people I've talked to about this say a bad coil only affects the starting ability, not the performance. Do you have any info about this? I'm trying to fix the problem. Thanks.
Replace coil. They get worse with heat and if it's over 4.7 and packing that way you have a coil going bad or possibly a condensor. So I'd say do a coil-condensor-points type Tune up and be sure to replace spark plug with new coil.
@@PrepperMountainSolutions - Thanks
@@PrepperMountainSolutions - I hope you can help me again. I ordered a coil from an Amazon seller who had good reviews. Shipment was fast. I tested the coil first, and it tested at 5.9 Ohms. I went ahead and installed, even though I figured it wouldn't correct my problem. It didn't, sounded the exact same way. I have ordered 2 more coils from different sellers, and again, they were above 5.9, one was even at 6.5. I installed just to check, and again, no difference. I spoke to a Briggs and Stratton rep on the phone, and they said if the mower is starting and giving a spark, the coil is fine. They told me they have no specifications on coils for push mowers, so checking Ohm level is a waste of time. No wonder people end up chucking their mowers away, when it doesn't seem most "experts" don't have a clue how to fix. My question to you is this, is it hard to find new coils that are within the range I'm looking for these days? Maybe the model # coil for this mower is just made poorly, I have no idea why it is hard finding one that works.
Mice love to build their next up in these, blocking cooling air and causing overheating. A design feature, I think. Backfiring - Mine backfires, I suspect the muffler is rusted with a hole in it. Too bad I couldn't hear this one running, for comparison. There are at least two types of carburetors used on these, one has a single main jet and it's not my favorite carb.
THANK YOU for posting. Just what mine needed. Or ing was wasted due to a few years of occasionally running ethanol.
Most backfires and surge problems are fixed on intek engines by replacing the fuel solenoid attached to the bottom of the carburator.You must have a older mower.Plus,the carbs for these engines are so cheap why not just buy a new one.They range from $30-40.
hi which jet is the high speed jet as that's is now where I have the surging at full rpm. I think its running to lean now
This got me back in good shape! Thank you for the excellent video and the helpful link to the product. Was exactly what I needed for my z246
Decent advice. One issue with using brake part cleaner. DO NOT GET IT ON ANYTHING MADE OF PLASTIC or RUBBER!
Whole new carb is about 34 bucks shipping included for those who aren't comfortable rebuilding.
if you buy a brand new carburetor it will be made in China and I suggest opening it up and cleaning out all the metal shavings parts and casting flakes of metal before using it.
Great vid man! So I did exactly what you did in the vid. Ran the mower today and everything was fine until about an hour in cutting and it started to misfire. Any suggestions?
It ran really smooth until that point. Once it sits for a few minutes. It runs fine again.
You might have a bad over run solenoid that's attached to the bottom of the carburetor bowl
Thanks. My engines have horizontal shafts, but the general info is very good.
I changed out my carberutor and now it seems to only run when I turn key to off position and then it turns off. When I turn to on position it will run like it wants to cut off
+mike D Sounds like the fuel cut solenoid on the bottom of the carb.
@@PrepperMountainSolutions I have a lawnmower that only gets power when I have the battery charger connected I just replaced the battery a week ago any suggestions?
Very good carburetor rebuild procedure
Looks like n older model. Electric choke on my carb is on the side, not bottom. Internal parts of carb differ as well.
I have fuel coming from the breather valve it starts up runs for about 30 seconds then dies
Your fuel pump has failed, a link to them is below video. When they fail the vacuum line can pull fuel into the valve covers
Sweet video thanks
Thanks for the video, helpful information. Steadier camera work & little slower narration would make it easier to follow what you're doing. I know, everyone is a critic. Just a thought. Seriously though, my thanks for having your video out here saving me some bucks!
I didn't here your reasoning for replacing the fuel pump. Seems if the engine was running, it must have been getting fuel.
Len Cranston preventative maintenance more than likely. Already planned to take it all apart, so may as well throw on a $7 part for good measure.
I completely agree with that reasoning, but instead of buying the kit and misc pieces, I opted to simply buy a brand new carb for my 27hp Briggs. Should be here by this weekend.
I plan to swap that, along with checking and adjusting the valves, and changing the fuel filter.
One thing to keep a very close eye on, the spark plugs. Even though they have the gaskets to help prevent backing out, I had one backed roughly half way out. I put in new plugs and the engine runs really good. But I keep having an issue with high idle when warmed up. Hoping the new carb resolves it.
I didn't see any windmills
Shame those jets don’t have thread,good vid fella 👍
Mine is not idling rough just wont run at all unless you have the choke on , then runs ok , but always hard to start .
Check the carburetor and gaskets.
I have a 540cc 21 HP Briggs and Stratton engine. It started cutting off when I engaged the blades and when I took my foot off the clutch/brake. I changed the oil, fuel, all filters (oil,fuel and air), spark plug replaced the car with brand new and also changed the fuel pump. Prior to me doing all that work if it sat at idle it would run very smooth. Now it spits and back fires at idle and still shuts off when I try to engage blades or take foot off clutch/brake. If anyone can help me I would greatly appreciate it. Stumped in Memphis.
Sounds like a severe vacuum leak. Made worse while working on it.
Hello,
And thank you for your video !
I am almost embarrassed to say that we are a professional repair facility, but, we are nonetheless !
Have replaced the original carburetor with a new factory Briggs Carb.
Still we continue to surge !
If I take the governor out of the equation, the engine will run up to the moon and back !
Old carb, new carb, makes absolutely no difference !
Making us completely crazy !
Welcome any suggestions !
We're flat out of ideas !
Vacuum. Check vacuum to carb/intake and to fuel pump. Often a warped intake or Vac boot. Governor removed will allow a small leak to be surpassed by high RPM to keep fuel supply up.
@quadsman11 ….if I may…be certain your vacuum hose/PCV setup is on and not cracked or leaking. The only other thing that enters my brain is possible leaking crank seal(s)? Just throwing that out there. Test by spaying ether or wd 40 at the seals while running the best you can.
Do you maby now how manny mm the valve s need to go on this engine
+Farmers Code The valves? I think if your asking about valve travel on the head it's 9 mm but if your asking about cam slack it's 13/1000
I buy the Kipa aftermarket carburetors for $30 on Amazon.
Dang I have less than 50 hours on my 3 year old mower, maybe sitting so long still damaged the o-rings. Started up fine, then after a few minutes started surging
GOOD ONE knocked the laces of this vid !!! always like to go over in my muttled mind before I start then watch youtube if I can find good one the visual helps. If done by someone who knows what they're doing, and talking about. THANKS (looked like corn gas no stabilizers old fuel etc...)
I have same mower. Runs perfect on low or medium throttle but sputters and backfires slightly
at high throttle. That rules out valves since it runs perfect at low throttle and medium throttle. So I checked spark by removing the spark plug wire on one of the cylinders and it was sparking and it also started misfiring like it should. Here's the kicker... I removed the other spark plug wire and it started running perfect. With only one cylinder firing it runs perfect. Everytime I hook that one spark plug wire back up it runs crappy. What could that be.
hey great video,,,clear and to the point ,,,thank you
How do u fix a carrader. On a husky ride moder
If you're talking about the carburetor, replace it. Do a tune-up if it hasn't been done in awhile. Check the valve adjustment if adjustable. Check the compression. Check the spindle bearings and blades. Change the oil and filter.
A carburetor for my John Deere x300 a Kawasaki engine FS542VA15894
This is exactly what I needed, and it worked like a charm! Thank you.
Wow, I can't believe you tore the carb down that far without checking the flat rubber gasket with 7 holes in it behind the butterflies. It has tiny holes that swell shut and cause issues. Behind the butterflies there's a black plastic part that is held on with a phillips head screw. The rubber gasket is behind it. It will drive you crazy if the holes in it swell shut.
Good call. And yes, that's a possible issue if you often let fuel spoil over the winters.
2nd thing is, ADJUST YOUR VALVE LASH!!!................B&S v-twins are bad at developing valve slop!
So much to learn!
Thanks for sharing!
I've had a hell of a time with mine, Briggs V twin, looks exactly like this. Same springs but the bigger one just seemed useless, and nothing would get the throttle to return all the way back to idle. I had to bend the arm with the linkage to the carb butterfly way up, then I totally removed the big spring, and had to replace the bottom spring with a smaller lighter tension one. I dunno how t** f*** its supposed to work like in the video here but mine had me losing my s*** all day till I just made it do what it is supposed to regardless. The governor part is correct though. You want to set it when the carb and everything is mounted and at full throttle, then turn clockwise & tighten like it says.
thanks for the video. gonna give it a go. well done
if its backfiring..you probably have a valve issue..and need the engine rebuilt..but if your lucky its out of time thanks for upload
Chad Simmons how do you check the time on these engines. My engine back fires at idle
@@supertitan21 It could be a sheared key or coil problems. Check the spark plugs. Check the compression or cylinder leakdown. It could be a leaking valve. Check the blades if they're bent. Hook up a car timing light to the plug wire and a battery and see if it has consistent spark.
It's more like a valve out of adjustment ...adj at 1/4 in past top dead center set at .004 on all valves will work great .
GREAT VIDEO BUD .. LOVE THE HOW TO VIDS TO SAVE $$
nice thanks
completely different god dman carb on mine
The link to the Orings, also will pull up options for the other 3 or more Carburetors used from that guy making the fix kits. Just go to the oring link, see his store near his name, he has probably 5 to 6 kits. AND he a old guy from Arkansas who will reply to questions.
ccanot i fase it at diides hanging from coils
Im sorry my man...but ur explication on the video wasnt the best...
I hate Ethanol
30 Th of a mm difference on the jets,,god I hate briggs stratton
Nope. New carburator even did not fix this
He sounds like Ted Nugent
L
Billard instructions
Too much talking, not enough showing
two little diodes
+Cliedo Cladidahopper Not sure I understand your question.
Great F ing Video!