Thanks for sharing your work and elaboration on it, I really enjoy your videos. The only question I have is why anyone would want to print there bed, or any sheet parts in general. I understand that its cool to be able to print as much as possible, but performance wise it could help to use a template and store bought material.
main reason is to keep the weight of the Y axis down, using glass or metal will add weight which is a con of bed slinger printers. A cnc cut carbon fiber bed frame and bed would be best
I've watched some of your Klipper stuff and am loving your core xy builds. As someone new to diy machines, if you had to recommend one with around a 250x250x250 (or slightly larger) build area, which one of your designs would you recommend? Something with true auto bed level, not just probes, but stepper motors that adjust the bed by themselves. I have 2 ender 3pro machines and am just getting into klipper. I looked at voron machines and the price tag was more that I thought. So why not build a machine, learn, and get some great speed and prints. I don't mind sourcing parts and printing components. Thanks for providing this info!
you can use SKR 1.4, SKR 2 and SKR 3 boards to do Z tilt , all you need to do is use E1 as your second Z motor, I use this on my bed slinger. its running a SKR 3 EZ
Amazing proyect, I plan on build it to upgrade the crappy easythreed K9 of my kid. is there any way to upgrade the bed? or a 2024 upgrade version of this?
Between the rook and kappy which would you recommend for a first build, I'm leaning towards the rook due to the kits available, any help is appreciated.
A ton of people have built the rook, it has a very active channel in the discord, and you can't go wrong with a nice kit. I would go rook. You also get a heated bed so you can do more than just PLA. Kappy is neat, though. Kappy is also new, so it may get some adjustments/not many people will have made one yet.
Rook has a lot of info on the discord and mods and such, Kappy is brand new and it will take some time for other to build it and mod it. If you want a kit the Rook will be the best choice.
I wonder if you bought two skr pico when they are on ale for 23 dollars, and go multi mcu route of course kind of over kill since there will be unused stepper ports.
Just fount out how cheap 2804AH is where I live, I wonder how much acceleration I can get out of it with this. My voron 0 can't go over 50k acceleration because of how floppy the bed is
I don't know what Rolohaun does, but I cut the extrusion for my Rook 2020 build. I replaced the stock timber blade on my drop-saw with one rated for aluminium - basically you need more and smaller teeth. Here in New Zealand I found the "Diablo Non-Ferrous/Plastics". When cutting be sure to clamp a stop-block in place to get consistent lengths, and cut steady and slow!
Using a chop saw (miter saw), only cut half way through. Rotate the extrusion 90 degrees and cut half way through again. Rotate and repeat. Never take the blade all the way through the extrusion or it will tear out the bottom side leaving an ugly edge. Clamp a stop in place to get consistent lengths.
The printer has a single linear rail on X, I do not know what that has to do with not having a heated bed.. This is for beginners to lean about building printers and it's for PLA. Heated bed is not necessary. Also the bed is not heated to keep weight down.
Is your life goal to get into Guinness as the guy who designed the most 3D printers? Give your opponents a chance 😂
haha
I know right? I was literally working on setting up the electronics for my Rook 2020 build when this video popped up. Another printer to try out!
He's probably already there lol
@@Rolohaunhonestly how many have you made?
Okay this is excruciatingly cute
Make more videos @mitsubishimakes make more videoed now
@@trystian8539 cope
This looks like a fun build. The MKS Monster 8 is listed in the BOM. I clicked on it and it brought me to an SKR Mini.
thank you, I fixed it
Thanks for sharing your work and elaboration on it, I really enjoy your videos. The only question I have is why anyone would want to print there bed, or any sheet parts in general. I understand that its cool to be able to print as much as possible, but performance wise it could help to use a template and store bought material.
main reason is to keep the weight of the Y axis down, using glass or metal will add weight which is a con of bed slinger printers. A cnc cut carbon fiber bed frame and bed would be best
This is really nice. I think i might convert my ender 3
I've watched some of your Klipper stuff and am loving your core xy builds. As someone new to diy machines, if you had to recommend one with around a 250x250x250 (or slightly larger) build area, which one of your designs would you recommend? Something with true auto bed level, not just probes, but stepper motors that adjust the bed by themselves. I have 2 ender 3pro machines and am just getting into klipper. I looked at voron machines and the price tag was more that I thought. So why not build a machine, learn, and get some great speed and prints. I don't mind sourcing parts and printing components. Thanks for providing this info!
Hey, I would recommend my SimpleCore Legacy printer, feel free to join my discord there are users in there that can answer any questions
you can use SKR 1.4, SKR 2 and SKR 3 boards to do Z tilt , all you need to do is use E1 as your second Z motor, I use this on my bed slinger. its running a SKR 3 EZ
yep any 5 driver board will do
That looks fun
Even an old style RAMPS has 5 stepper drivers. And the RAMPS + Arduino Mega is compatible with Klipper
ya that would be a old school option
Im building this. just need time to do it :D
Awesome man. You’re amazing! How is the bl touch mounted to the dragonburner?
just two m3 x 6 under the X 2020 right behind the hotend
Amazing proyect, I plan on build it to upgrade the crappy easythreed K9 of my kid. is there any way to upgrade the bed? or a 2024 upgrade version of this?
there are some 50mm latger ones being built in my discord
Between the rook and kappy which would you recommend for a first build, I'm leaning towards the rook due to the kits available, any help is appreciated.
A ton of people have built the rook, it has a very active channel in the discord, and you can't go wrong with a nice kit. I would go rook. You also get a heated bed so you can do more than just PLA. Kappy is neat, though. Kappy is also new, so it may get some adjustments/not many people will have made one yet.
Rook has a lot of info on the discord and mods and such, Kappy is brand new and it will take some time for other to build it and mod it. If you want a kit the Rook will be the best choice.
@@Rolohaun Thanks I'll hopefully, be getting one soon, though the fabreeko kit doesn't ship pre orders till mid to late august...
Great videos as always ❤
Can I buy a built Klippy or even this klippy from you?
I do sell printers but only in my general location of Alberta
@Rolohaun just a heads up the CAD you have the Z motors intersecting with the MCU board.
Yes the motor in the cad are larger, the BOM states the motor size max for a stock frame
I wonder if you bought two skr pico when they are on ale for 23 dollars, and go multi mcu route of course kind of over kill since there will be unused stepper ports.
that would work also
Just looking at it, I know it's meant to be small but it looks very scalable.
yes it should scale no problem, just increase be 50mm at a time 2020, linear rods and rail
I would like to see a heated bed mod for this printer, but why did you go from a corexz design to a cartesian
I am sure there will be one. CoreXZ didn't really give any major benefits and was more complicated to build. I wanted this to be good for beginners
First! Also awesome to see a release of this!
Just fount out how cheap 2804AH is where I live, I wonder how much acceleration I can get out of it with this.
My voron 0 can't go over 50k acceleration because of how floppy the bed is
that would be cool, maybe mod a CF bed on this
Planning to send any of your 3d printers to other youtubers for opinions? It would be interesting
some kits were sent out, but until there are more kits it won't happen much. My printers are still growing in popularity
Can you make a video of how you design the printers? I designed one but am already on the third version because I can't get it 100% good
I may make a video on this in the future
@@Rolohaun still waiting
just busy right now but soon!@@Fusion360Konto
I can see this as a platform to upgrade the Ender3s I have lying around 😃
yes these parts should world, this is very scalable, the parts should work with any 2020 extrusion
What would be the improvement? Dual Z? And a new shroud?
@@felipenavas dual belted z, z-tilt to level the X axis and dragonburner, linear rail on X
You had me at linear rail on z 😃
@@byronkavanaugh1427 linear rail on X
old design?
no this is the latest version of Kappy
How do you cut your aluminum extrusion 😄
all my designs use standard sizes, I never cut anything. this is easily scalable too
I don't know what Rolohaun does, but I cut the extrusion for my Rook 2020 build. I replaced the stock timber blade on my drop-saw with one rated for aluminium - basically you need more and smaller teeth. Here in New Zealand I found the "Diablo Non-Ferrous/Plastics". When cutting be sure to clamp a stop-block in place to get consistent lengths, and cut steady and slow!
Using a chop saw (miter saw), only cut half way through. Rotate the extrusion 90 degrees and cut half way through again. Rotate and repeat. Never take the blade all the way through the extrusion or it will tear out the bottom side leaving an ugly edge. Clamp a stop in place to get consistent lengths.
Link for tool head?
github.com/chirpy2605/voron/tree/main/V0/Dragon_Burner
Skr 1.3/4 would be fine and cheap
yep it would work but for the price of a Manta M5P you can get the CB1 as a nice all in one package. SKR 1.4 is 80 CAD for me which is expensive
Smol boi
Tutorial 😢
my discord would be the best resource, Kappy is a pretty simple build but we can help you with any questions there
@@Rolohaun how can I get you on discord
@disneyland-wc3uu there is a link in the descriptions of my videos
@@Rolohaun okay
I’m so lucky in saw this lmao everything here is a tenth of the price in the us except prostitutes
Мабуть слабо показати принтер з низу. Слава Україні
Linear rails on a 3d printer that doesnt even have a heat bed...okay.
The printer has a single linear rail on X, I do not know what that has to do with not having a heated bed.. This is for beginners to lean about building printers and it's for PLA. Heated bed is not necessary. Also the bed is not heated to keep weight down.