Stripping Paint From Polycarbonate (Lexan) RC Bodies | Using Methoxy Propanol
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ต.ค. 2019
- In this video I strip the paint from my Kyosho Triumph body using a product called Dowanol PM, more commonly known as Methoxy Propanol. I found it's better to submerge the body in the product and let it do the work, rather than trying to rub at it. I hope you find this video helpful if you're trying to strip your RC body paint.
Thanks for watching.
Please like, comment, share and subscribe if you'd like to see more RC videos.
Follow me on Facebook and Instagram for updates, additional pics/ videos and sneak peeks of upcoming builds/ restorations.
Facebook / rchobbyshed
Instagram / rchobbyshed - บันเทิง
![[HIGHLIGHT] หมีLIVEปะ? | EP.171 เห็นแต่ในจอ วันนี้มาต้องขอคารวะ](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/gPWLxa0e_Z8/mqdefault.jpg)
thanks for the video, will try in my 1/7 kyosho f1 f2007 lexan body, tryed with thinner and was a terrible mistake, left some foggy/burned spots and then tryied with NITRO but it was a painfull and really slow method. Got you a new suscriber!
Brilliant going mate as always from you 👍👍🇬🇧
Thanks mate! 🙂👍
Excellent !! Really a very good tip, the body becomes like new again, really great idea !!
Thanks mate. It does fog the body a bit, but to me it's acceptable. 👍
@@RCHobbyShed 😊👍
I stripped a turbo Ultima body recently using a citrus based cleaner. It required more time but it worked very well. My body shell was fogged as well mainly in the low areas (when viewed upside down). I really believe this is caused by the old lacquer-based polycarbonate paint and not by the stripper. ... so there's no way around it. I repainted it white and applied a repro decal set from MCI and it looks great. I'd bet yours will look great as well. Thanks for posting the video
Good info. I'll keep an eye out for something citrus based. I'm curious about different methods and think I'll end up doing a video on each method I hear of over time. I agree, I think fogging could be from the original paint as part of the etching process. I have had Tamiya Paint Remover fog unpainted windows on a body but was able to polish the fogging out.The body in this video has been painted now and does look great. No fogging at all after the paint went on, so I'm happy with it. Ooh Turbo Ultima, very nice! Always loved the look of the Turbo Ultimas. 👌👍
@@RCHobbyShed I've used an adhesive remover product from a company called Franmar. Here's a link:
products.franmar.com/products/adhesive-remover-ickee-stickee-unstuck?_pos=1&_sid=339a2685e&_ss=r
I've soaked a paper towel with the product, place it inside the body and sealed everything in a ziplock bag and let it soak overnight. Unfortunately, after the body had been stripped, there was some paint remaining embedded in the lexan in the top where the paint had pooled that I hadn't notice until I'd repainted the body (this could have easily been removed if I'd known about it - but I missed it). So I was a little disappointed with the new paint job but after the decals were applied, everything looks fine. You can view the complete rebuild on RC10talk.com. Here's a link:
www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=44303
I'm really an AE and Schumacher guy (that's what I raced back in the day) but I had an Ultima back then and recently became interested in collecting vintage Kyosho buggies. I have about a few vintage Kyosho's (mostly Mids) and a few of their re-release cars including the new Ultima.
Anyway, I've just recently stumbled upon your TH-cam channel so I'm spending some time catching up and enjoying what you've posted so far.
Great video, I’ll have to search some of this out.
Thanks. If you are in Australia, search Sydney Solvents on eBay. That's where I bought mine, don't know if they ship worldwide though.
That's awesome my friend I would love to be able to use this on my Cosworth 20 years worth of paint on it👍🇬🇧😎😊👊
Thanks mate. Hope it was helpful. I think I'll make a video soon on paint stripping with nitro fuel and then brake fluid, maybe a comparison video. Aiming to find the best way of stripping Polycarbonate bodies without the fogging. 🙂👍
@@RCHobbyShed that would be awesome, I have a few bodies I need to strip
Thanks mate , i can see myself needing to know this soon. This stuff works well, i used 16 litres of stripper on my cm valiant wagon shell then found plenty of nasty sunrises. Will let you know how the carnage goes tomorrow especially the kamikaze into the Mojave head on,.cant wait ha,ha.
Hahaha If your valiant is anything like mine was, you'd use 16 litres of paint stripper only to find you need 40kg of bog 🤣🤣. Have fun on your carnage session! 👍
@@RCHobbyShed Sad thing is I did find 40 kg of filler. Made both quarter panels in 3 sections. Light skim coat of filler now and dead straight. Been smashed at least 10 times the metal was splitting, shocking work . Can't believe the panel shop was paid to wreck it even worse . The carnage was great but had to hit one a few times to totally destroy it. Its in a plastic bag in a million bits .Time for a trip to Kmart ,they sell plenty of crappie toys . ha,ha, Learning things the hard way ,6s senton was whining, pinion gear came loose and cooked the ESC . Should've stopped and checked it. Motor was very hot because the pinion was jamming it. Mesh seemed too tight as well. Checked them all and the rest are OK. First thing Saturday morning I'm going to Kmart . Should make bull bars for the trucks ha,ha,
@@petergoodwin2465 I bet your jaw dropped when you saw what was under the old paint. I'm glad you did it right though! You're gonna need to stock up on toy cars lol. Oh yeah, some RTR's are unlucky enough to be assembled at the factory on a Friday afternoon. My Colt 10 Nitro had real tight gear mesh too. haha yes, big steel bullbars! 👍
@@RCHobbyShed The ESC came for the senton and it's running again. Was the pinion coming loose and jamming but the mesh was so tight when I lined it up with the spur gear the wheels nearly locked when I pushed the car. Think you're right, Friday afternoon car . Can't wait for the next video mate , these builds have been great to watch.
Brilliant. Thanks for focusing on the Triumph. I have never seen one before. Awesome. Where do you get the solution you stripped the body with from. If I could get some I have a few old models I could restore and touch up. Massive thank you for sharing.
Thanks, but I should apologize. There isn't much Triumph in this car, it's mostly Ultima Pro. In error I thought I had Triumph arms and stuff to go on it, but it turns out my other parts are also Ultima Pro. All will be explained in the finished video. Sorry for the miss-information. As for the Methoxy Propanol, it's readily available on eBay.
@@RCHobbyShed I noticed that a little. The front section of the car, and I also noticed the a-arms had the Ultima shape and spacing about them, but not seeing a Triumph before I presumed it might be another Ultima variant that shared parts.
@@TastierBackInThe80s Yeah, the Triumph has a narrower front bulkhead and wider arms which have a slight bend in them. The gearbox looks similar but is belt driven. Again, sorry for my stupid mistake. It's just been a lot of years since I built it. lol
If you're on Instagram you can look up RC Hobby Shed, there is some sneak peeks of the build on there. 👍
@@RCHobbyShed cool, dont have you on Insta, will follow when im one next.
Nice vid Mick
Wondering if you've ever tried this product on a Tamiya hard body??
Might not be styrene/ABS safe..
Thanks Davey! No, so far I've not tried it on ABS. I will give it a go at some stage though but right now I don't actually have any hard bodies that need stripping. I do have some old Grasshopper/Hornet wheels (which are ABS) that are painted, I might give it a go on them as see what happens. 👍
What do you recommend for removing paint from Tamiya wheels? I currently have by 1979 rough rider wheels soaking in turps. I originally tried brake fluid overnight and it made a mess of them so now I’m trying to correct them without further damage.
I've not tried stripping paint from those type of wheel. You could try Tamiya Paint Remover. It's really meant for Lexan bodies but I have used it on hard bodies too. Maybe try it on the back of a wheel first. Good luck! 👍
Ah, that's nice! I have a lexan body I want to try this with at some point, good to know... Now I need to figure how to find this product in whichever language they speak where I am...
I hope you can find some mate! 👍
Good job, my friend. Seems to work. Good tip. Have you tried the Carson or Tamiya polycarbonate paint remover? Seems to work great too from what I’ve seen (not tried it myself).
Thanks mate. I have tried Tamiya Paint Remover and the Tamiya Polycarbonate cleaner. The Paint remover works quite well, but still fogs the body. I've not found anything that doesn't fog the Polycarbonate to some degree. Nitro fuel works well too, but I haven't used it as yet. Maybe I'll get some and do a comparison video all each method.
I used a product that, although it removed all the paint, left the entire body white…. Can I use this product to remove this remaining paint and make the body transparent again?
seems that your lexan got burned for the chemical... I have the same problem in some spots trying to take off some paint with thinner... dont know if polishing it can make it clear or something else, what happened to you?
I find if u do this process put a lid on it or in a ziploc bag your product works much faster an better.. not to mention u dont need to use alot😢...
was the blue paint a brush on paint or a spray on?
G'day. It was sprayed on. It was Tamiya PS-4. 👍
Great vid I'm from aus too.
Can you tell me where I can buy this product from? Thanks
G'day! Thanks mate. I got this from eBay. There is a store on there called Sydney Solvents, also search for Methoxy Propanol PM. 👍
@@RCHobbyShed
Thanks mate found it $49 for 5 ltr
Looks like the fogging is hard to avoid, even the Tamiya paint remover leaves the body foggy.
I haven't tried nitro fuel, maybe that doesn't fog. Some say it's because the paint etches the surface. I'm skeptical though as it's only in some areas. Will continue the research! 😁👍
@@RCHobbyShed I wonder if sanding with something really fine like 2000 grit wet-n-dry or maybe polishing would work or even be feasible?
@@keithrx3c I have polished some fogging out with a Dremel once, using a wool pad and automotive polish. For me it was too time consuming to bother with but it can be done.
Was the fogging visible after it was repainted?
No, the fogging is not visible after painting. You can see this same body on my project Ultima. 👍
th-cam.com/video/pVHLi8UcqkA/w-d-xo.html
@@RCHobbyShed superb! That looks great 👍🏻
where can I purchase this in the US?
Sorry, I have no idea. I actually bought mine from a supplier on eBay in Australia. Your best option is to search online for Methoxy Propanol in the US. 👍
Is it work for tamiya polycarbonate paint??
Sure does! This paint was Tamiya PS-4 Blue. 👍
@@RCHobbyShed thanks sir
Tamiya PS paint?
Yes it is. It was Tamiya PS-4 and had been on there close to 20 years. 👍
If you use Methoxypropanol PM from Kremer Pigments it costs 8€ for 1L.
Great info. Thanks! 🙂👍
I used a product that, although it removed all the paint, left the entire body white…. Can I use this product to remove this remaining paint and make the body transparent again?
Sorry to hear that. I know it's frustrating, I've had that issue before too. To be honest I'm not sure this will work to remove the white. Usually when the body has gone white it's kind of etched into it. You could scuff up the main areas of the body and paint it. I've found the white usually doesn't show once it's painted. For the windows you could try polishing. If that fails, painting the windows black could be an option. Hope this helps! 👍
@@RCHobbyShed Oh man, thank you very much, i’ll try… maybe polish (and patience) works 🙏🏽 Thanks!
@@Antoniosp10 Good luck! 🤞