Great video man! Just ordered some plugs hoping it’s the problem for my misfires 😭 starting there first. Sputtering on idle unless A/C is on to bring idle rpm up but after car warms up it sputters regardless. Big boost cut and sounds like a machine gun around 5k rpm then stops backfiring and slowly climbs rpm again.
Sounds like a timming issue, but best of luck on the plugs. Ive also heard that that fuel filter socks can get clogged and cause issues also, but what you described sounds like timing.
Do you recommend replacing the intake manifold gasket? I noticed Nissan recommends replacing it with every disassembly, but I haven’t seen anyone mention replacing them in any spark plug videos
eBay sells em pretty cheap. OEM plugs i think i paid 90 bucks i own CBA . On CBA you have to take TB off. Just 4 bolts on each side and put it to the side .. The dealer i think would charge 900 bucks. Also you do have to Disconnect negative battery as your TB may need to be recalibrated if you Don't.
very good video, i disagree with your use of antiseize on the threads however. torque specs are always written to reference clean, dry threads. not being a jerk about it, just wanted to share that with you.
Ya, NGK claims their a release on their threads some how, but as someone who's had a spark plug sieze to a head before I don't trust not using it. Of course people are free to not use it if they wish. I'd just had to have a plug size on an engine this expensive
I have always used antisiese on any spark plug I've put on any car. The heat cycling can cause them to fuse to the aluminum. Ive never had an issue. Why wouldn't you put antisieze on NGK plugs?
@@JDArcher NGK plugs come with an anti seize coating already on them, and the biggest issue is it can affect the torque setting. Have a read on NGK website
@@jamesmarshall2135 I still don't trust it. If you've ever had a spark plug size to a head you'd be just as cautious as I am. I don't think a few micro Newton meters is going to make a difference compared to my piece of mind. But it's your car if you want to run without anti-sieze go head. So far I've run NGK in almost every car I've had, with anti-sieze and never had an issue
very good video, i disagree with your use of antiseize on the threads however. torque specs are always written to reference clean, dry threads. not being a jerk about it, just wanted to share that with you.
Ya, I just don't trust not using it. As someone who's had a plug sieze to a head I'd rather use it. Of course people are free to do as they wish, I'd hate to have a plug sieze on an engine this expensive
I loved the video, Thanks for taking the time to teach us!
Thank you for watching
Awesome video thanks man
Thank you for watching
Great video and very detailed!
Thanks
Would have been good to check the actual gap size of the new ones in and compare to the ones out with a feeler gauge 👌
You do not want to put s feeler Guage to iridium plugs, it with knock the coating off
Im going to get some spark plugs in preparation for hopefully doing a gtr change around them
Great video man! Just ordered some plugs hoping it’s the problem for my misfires 😭 starting there first. Sputtering on idle unless A/C is on to bring idle rpm up but after car warms up it sputters regardless. Big boost cut and sounds like a machine gun around 5k rpm then stops backfiring and slowly climbs rpm again.
Sounds like a timming issue, but best of luck on the plugs. Ive also heard that that fuel filter socks can get clogged and cause issues also, but what you described sounds like timing.
good stuff. I think it's time to do a spark plug change on my r35. it's at 60k miles. cool video man.
Awesome. Have fun. It's not that bad
Do you recommend replacing the intake manifold gasket? I noticed Nissan recommends replacing it with every disassembly, but I haven’t seen anyone mention replacing them in any spark plug videos
If it's paper yes. If it's metal you should be fine for a while. I might do it on my next change because I'm over 100k miles
At what mileage do you recommend a spark plug change for the DBA's? I live in Vegas and do spirited drives primarily, no track and daily driving.
From what I remember 30k is the recommended interval. I do mine every 2 to 3 years depending
eBay sells em pretty cheap. OEM plugs i think i paid 90 bucks i own CBA . On CBA you have to take TB off. Just 4 bolts on each side and put it to the side .. The dealer i think would charge 900 bucks. Also you do have to Disconnect negative battery as your TB may need to be recalibrated if you Don't.
Yup to all of that. I think I paid around $90 for the plugs also on Amazon
very good video, i disagree with your use of antiseize on the threads however. torque specs are always written to reference clean, dry threads. not being a jerk about it, just wanted to share that with you.
Ya, NGK claims their a release on their threads some how, but as someone who's had a spark plug sieze to a head before I don't trust not using it. Of course people are free to not use it if they wish. I'd just had to have a plug size on an engine this expensive
Why do the plugs come out looking wet? Is this a common issue with r35s? Looks like oil.
Mine weren't wet. Could be you're running rich
@@JDArcher having oil on the threads means running rich?
@@moeyhedaka8517 no, you said wet. If you're sure it's oil check your valve cover gaskets.
Valve covers not leaking I'm guessing it's from the breathers only cyl 5 n 6 have abit of oil on threads.
@@moeyhedaka8517 maybe do a compression and leak down test really quick
I WOULD SUGGEST DOING SOME RESEARCH FIRST BEFORE DOING THESE VIDEOS, YOU DO NOT USE ANTI SEIZE ON NGK SPARK PLUGS
I have always used antisiese on any spark plug I've put on any car. The heat cycling can cause them to fuse to the aluminum. Ive never had an issue. Why wouldn't you put antisieze on NGK plugs?
@@JDArcher NGK plugs come with an anti seize coating already on them, and the biggest issue is it can affect the torque setting. Have a read on NGK website
@@jamesmarshall2135 I still don't trust it. If you've ever had a spark plug size to a head you'd be just as cautious as I am. I don't think a few micro Newton meters is going to make a difference compared to my piece of mind. But it's your car if you want to run without anti-sieze go head. So far I've run NGK in almost every car I've had, with anti-sieze and never had an issue
@@JDArcher OK then, I'll stick with NGK'S advice you carry on
very good video, i disagree with your use of antiseize on the threads however. torque specs are always written to reference clean, dry threads. not being a jerk about it, just wanted to share that with you.
Ya, I just don't trust not using it. As someone who's had a plug sieze to a head I'd rather use it. Of course people are free to do as they wish, I'd hate to have a plug sieze on an engine this expensive