As an RS5 owner, I am always on the hunt for quality RS5 focused DIY content. Your videos are well produced and thoughtful. They give me confidence to do some of these jobs that I previous thought of out of reach... I do seem to have ample time these days... Kudos!
Thank you Peter, I really appreciate that! Be sure to sign up over at www.audirevolution.net as I'm congregating as many RS5 owners there as humanly possible. Lots of good technical articles and discussions. I'm also the moderator of the A5, S5 and RS5 forum.
An additional plus of CRC cleaner is that it will clean the piston top, cylinder head, spark plug, fuel injector, and combustion chamber. Thank you again for making this video. =)
Thanks for the video. Will there be a Part Trois if you use the cleaner again? I like how you alternated spraying the left and right intakes: that should give time for the catalytic converters on each side to digest the richer mixture and cool down. CRC uses desulfured diesel as the carrier for the polyether amine detergent, so I'm guessing the catalytic converters will run hot during cleaning. CRC changed the instruction from spray in 30-second intervals to spray in short bursts (maybe it's an adjustment to prevent overheating the catalytic converters?).
At some point, yes, there will be a part three. I still have a can of valve cleaner along with a new video bore scope so I can look at the catalytic converters. I also plan on monitoring EGT's while spraying the cleaner next time. I doubt the cats are getting too hot while spraying the cleaner as EGT's overall are very low at 2000 rpm. I can see 850C at 8500 rpm in 4th gear and get nowhere close to that lower in the rev range.
ha, just noticed I watched it already with my comments below. Looks like it helped enough to be worth minor cost of the spray and some time of your own. So others don't have to wonder if it really works. I'll be doing a before and after video for my kia Stinger in a couple of weeks as well. I'll be using a diff. brand for this. and maybe the crc 10Km later next spring. Thanks for this video and the hard work to do all that !!
There are products designed to do this which aren't the CRC valve cleaner. I will say this, with a good-sized compressor, it's a far less tedious task than using chemical sprays. Those have to "sit" and soak in before they're effective and you still have to get in there with brushes and picks. Walnut shells are far easier and it's a cleaner process overall.
What was your best 1/4 mile by the way? And best 0-60? I’m yet to run mine but have a Dragy timed 0-60 of 3.7 seconds (not the best launch on a back country road, but it’s the one I have proof of).
I can't touch that but mostly because of the air quality here where I live. I never seem to have a DA below 2500. My best 0-60 is 3.9 and fastest 1/4 mile is 11.9.
looks like only 10% or so better. I am about to try this, but i have 26k miles, so mayb i should jump to walnut blast, & use spray at next 10k miles max ?
Hay great video thank you! Question could you use 2 cans instead of one if one can removes more or less 50% maybe 2 cans could remove nearly 100%? possible or no go ?
Great channel. Thanks for all the info, i am currently looking for 2013 rs5 which has 87k miles? Is there anything i should be worried of anything i should look out for?
Best to check on AudiRevolution or Audizine forums as there's lots of info on both on what to look for! But yes, there are some definites. Most important is a full service record.
Absolutely. Unfortunately a lot of carbon buildup on this particular engine (and most likely others) comes from valve overlap and oil getting past the valve guides/seals. And naturally aspirated motors seem to be worse than forced induction. Yes, you'll get a bit with a catch can but it won't eliminate it unfortunately.
In the throttle body. On the RS5, it's a speed density system so no MAF sensors. You can remove the intakes and spray directly into the throttle body, 5 seconds then switch to the other side.
Lmao !! Thanks for the laugh I needed it! And thanks for the help and I’ll give it a try! And should i use the entire crc valve cleaner spray can ? Or how much exactly i need to spray and how often should i use this method?
@@HeadsUP253 Entire can. Five seconds each side. Don't do it more than every 20K miles. If you do it too often, you could get carbon chunks embedded in your cats and that's quite bad.
I'm about ready to do it once more. Unfortunately (or fortunately depending on how you look at it!) I'm working from home these days and the RS5 goes out to play about once a week. So there hasn't been a huge rack up in mileage lately. I do have one can left and it's been almost 20,000 miles since my initial carbon clean. So I'll do the CRC within 5,000 miles or so and then do a walnut blast carbon clean 15,000 miles later. Maybe sooner, we'll see.
Water/meth injection will unfortunately not clean carbon off of valves. The only way is to spray fuel on the back of the valves via port injection or like Toyota does with throttle body injection, using one or two injectors. Fuel is a very strong solvent with a detergent package which is why it keeps valves clean. Meth/water doesn't spray often enough to make any real difference, even long-term, even though methanol is also a solvent. But yes, it's good for IAT's on forced induction engines, far less so on naturally aspirated engines.
@@RS5Fanatic just something i watched. I think i still want to add threaded ports to my intake for maybe a possible injection point to add cleaners or such. There is a Air to air intercooler that adds port injection for an upgrade but i dont see it worth while for 5 grand yet until i need more power.
I wanna do this on my 2010 A4 2.0L Quattro, any advice? I think it has massive amounts of carbon, because first, in a cold start the car starts just fine, then once I drive it and get to where I’m going then turn it off for about 30 - 60mins then start it again, the crank is longer and kind of weak, or sometimes it just doesn’t start at all on the first crank, then starts on the second. I highly doubt this is a fuel pump issue, or spark plug issue because I don’t have rough idle (well just very slight vibrations on gear when in idle, like “barely noticeable unless you pay attention” slight)
Your best bet is to get a Ross-Tech VCDS and scan for codes first. Easier than doing carbon cleaning, replacing all your injectors and finding out it hasn't solved your problem!
RS5 Fanatic I ran it for codes, check engine light is on. The code it’s throwing is P0299, which is turbo under boost, I replaced the diverter valve but light is still on, I may need to replace the entire turbo, also don’t know if I need to clear the code with VCDS, to determine if it will come back or not. Cause from research, the light would go off on its own after replacing the diverter valve, so chances are it’s the waste gate/turbo. And maybe power loss is minimal for me to notice, idk.
@@EJR20 Yep, clear the codes first and drive around for a bit and see if it comes back. You may need to go into that individual module and clear it there instead of doing it on the main screen which is a global clear. In my experience, the global method doesn't always clear the codes.
Hey guy, I drive a humble Red Honda Fit and appreciate the before and after shots. About the catalytic converter, here is a video of before and after: th-cam.com/video/Uy5YLEDhT_k/w-d-xo.html It seems the detergents dissolve the carbon fine enough to pass through over time. Again, nice car and video!
That's ultimately up to you and the condition of your valves currently. I would say this is better as a "maintenance" process in between real carbon cleanings with manual scrubbing. It may even prolong intervals. But again, if you listed to what I said in the video, also consider this may lead to lots of trapped carbon particles in your cats if you do it too often. Catless? No worries then!
@@RS5Fanatic I just bought a hyundai i30 fastback1400cc 140ps t-dgi brand new from the dealer. What do you suggest I do precautionarily to protect my engine? I have done 750km so far and i want your help in order to protect the engine from this thing. Thank you for your help and time.
@@opener2869 I have no personal experience with that car. Assuming it's direct injected? If so, do you know if it has secondary port injectors? If so, you'll never need to worry about carbon cleaning. Only direct injected engines with no secondary port injectors have this issue and most new engine designs now come with port injectors to eliminate carbon buildup.
@@opener2869 catalytic converters. With catalytic converters or without catalytic converters. Their slang term is "cats" so we don't have to type out catalytic all the time :). Luckily, I type 60 words a minute!
Oil catch cans do very little. Most carbon buildup comes from valve overlap (blowback) in addition to oil getting past the valve guides. The RS5 already has a very sophisticated vapor separation system and while adding an oil catch can system will remove some volatiles out of the air being ingested by the engine, it will not prevent carbon buildup or negate the need for proper carbon cleaning.
The RS5 has a catch can built-in but even adding one (the RS5 would need two) won't completely solve the issue as there are two other sources of carbon on the valves. First one is valve overlap and blowback out of the combustion chamber and the second is oil dripping past the valve guides and onto the valve heads. A catch can won't solve those two issues unfortunately. Even with additional catch cans, not all of the volatiles will be removed out of the air. You'll still have carbon buildup. I will say adding one, installed properly, can't hurt and it will diminish the amount of volatiles entering the intake runner.
I'm surprised how rough the finish is on the intake ports 8:55, just above the valves. Looks like a caveman formed it with a rudimentary chisel and hammer.
Agreed although I can't argue with 107hp/liter. Makes me wonder what a good porting and valve job would yield. R8 intake ports look the same amazingly.
Well, think of it this way...every DI engine designed from BMW, to Honda, to GM and Ford, all have the same issue. It wasn't until manufacturers started using secondary port injectors that the problem was solved. Most of Audi's newer engines use both DI and port injection, including the 2nd gen R8, RS3, TTRS, RS5, etc...
![⭐️( ลอยกระทง 2024 ) Ver. แดนซ์ Remix BY [ ดีเจกิต รีมิกซ์ ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/rMWOLhgXUHc/mqdefault.jpg)
As an RS5 owner, I am always on the hunt for quality RS5 focused DIY content. Your videos are well produced and thoughtful. They give me confidence to do some of these jobs that I previous thought of out of reach... I do seem to have ample time these days... Kudos!
Thank you Peter, I really appreciate that! Be sure to sign up over at www.audirevolution.net as I'm congregating as many RS5 owners there as humanly possible. Lots of good technical articles and discussions. I'm also the moderator of the A5, S5 and RS5 forum.
An additional plus of CRC cleaner is that it will clean the piston top, cylinder head, spark plug, fuel injector, and combustion chamber. Thank you again for making this video. =)
Amazing content brother on both your channel and the forms
RS5 Fanatic Thank you for creating and sharing this video🙋♂️👍
Thanks for the video. Will there be a Part Trois if you use the cleaner again? I like how you alternated spraying the left and right intakes: that should give time for the catalytic converters on each side to digest the richer mixture and cool down. CRC uses desulfured diesel as the carrier for the polyether amine detergent, so I'm guessing the catalytic converters will run hot during cleaning. CRC changed the instruction from spray in 30-second intervals to spray in short bursts (maybe it's an adjustment to prevent overheating the catalytic converters?).
At some point, yes, there will be a part three. I still have a can of valve cleaner along with a new video bore scope so I can look at the catalytic converters. I also plan on monitoring EGT's while spraying the cleaner next time. I doubt the cats are getting too hot while spraying the cleaner as EGT's overall are very low at 2000 rpm. I can see 850C at 8500 rpm in 4th gear and get nowhere close to that lower in the rev range.
ha, just noticed I watched it already with my comments below. Looks like it helped enough to be worth minor cost of the spray and some time of your own. So others don't have to wonder if it really works. I'll be doing a before and after video for my kia Stinger in a couple of weeks as well. I'll be using a diff. brand for this. and maybe the crc 10Km later next spring. Thanks for this video and the hard work to do all that !!
Thank you so much for such great informative video.
Thanks for the CRC advice!
Greatly appreciated..
HI Dude! How bout using this product directly on the valves with manifold off instead of walnut shell blasting?
There are products designed to do this which aren't the CRC valve cleaner. I will say this, with a good-sized compressor, it's a far less tedious task than using chemical sprays. Those have to "sit" and soak in before they're effective and you still have to get in there with brushes and picks. Walnut shells are far easier and it's a cleaner process overall.
What was your best 1/4 mile by the way? And best 0-60? I’m yet to run mine but have a Dragy timed 0-60 of 3.7 seconds (not the best launch on a back country road, but it’s the one I have proof of).
I can't touch that but mostly because of the air quality here where I live. I never seem to have a DA below 2500. My best 0-60 is 3.9 and fastest 1/4 mile is 11.9.
@@RS5Fanatic Those are still cracking times. Love your work and your tips.
looks like only 10% or so better.
I am about to try this, but i have 26k miles, so mayb i should jump to walnut blast, & use spray at next 10k miles max ?
Hay great video thank you! Question could you use 2 cans instead of one if one can removes more or less 50% maybe 2 cans could remove nearly 100%? possible or no go ?
That would be a question for CRC but I'd personally be a bit hesitant to use two full cans at one time.
Great vid thanks
Great channel. Thanks for all the info, i am currently looking for 2013 rs5 which has 87k miles? Is there anything i should be worried of anything i should look out for?
Best to check on AudiRevolution or Audizine forums as there's lots of info on both on what to look for! But yes, there are some definites. Most important is a full service record.
Have you thought of using a Catch-Can on the engine? (I drive a modded MK-VI Golf R)
Absolutely. Unfortunately a lot of carbon buildup on this particular engine (and most likely others) comes from valve overlap and oil getting past the valve guides/seals. And naturally aspirated motors seem to be worse than forced induction. Yes, you'll get a bit with a catch can but it won't eliminate it unfortunately.
Where do you exactly spray that crc valve cleaning spray?
In the throttle body. On the RS5, it's a speed density system so no MAF sensors. You can remove the intakes and spray directly into the throttle body, 5 seconds then switch to the other side.
So should i have another person help me hold down the gas pedal while i spray into throttle body when throttle body plate opens up?
@@HeadsUP253 Yes, unless you have REALLY long arms :)
Lmao !! Thanks for the laugh I needed it! And thanks for the help and I’ll give it a try! And should i use the entire crc valve cleaner spray can ? Or how much exactly i need to spray and how often should i use this method?
@@HeadsUP253 Entire can. Five seconds each side. Don't do it more than every 20K miles. If you do it too often, you could get carbon chunks embedded in your cats and that's quite bad.
You drove it for a week after applying CRC intake valve cleaner without changing engine oil? When do you have to change the oil?
Technically you don't. CRC just markets the cleaner to oil change shops as it's a convenient time to have it done for the consumer.
Are you still doing the CRC clean or did you find an alternative
I'm about ready to do it once more. Unfortunately (or fortunately depending on how you look at it!) I'm working from home these days and the RS5 goes out to play about once a week. So there hasn't been a huge rack up in mileage lately. I do have one can left and it's been almost 20,000 miles since my initial carbon clean. So I'll do the CRC within 5,000 miles or so and then do a walnut blast carbon clean 15,000 miles later. Maybe sooner, we'll see.
Would love an RS5, but I'm stuck with a sonata 😆.
Hey bud. When are you going to ad that super charger?! ☺️☺️
As soon as JH Motorsports makes it available!
Running water meth injection will keep the valves clean i have been reading. and a good upgrade for IATs
Water/meth injection will unfortunately not clean carbon off of valves. The only way is to spray fuel on the back of the valves via port injection or like Toyota does with throttle body injection, using one or two injectors. Fuel is a very strong solvent with a detergent package which is why it keeps valves clean. Meth/water doesn't spray often enough to make any real difference, even long-term, even though methanol is also a solvent. But yes, it's good for IAT's on forced induction engines, far less so on naturally aspirated engines.
@@RS5Fanatic just something i watched. I think i still want to add threaded ports to my intake for maybe a possible injection point to add cleaners or such. There is a Air to air intercooler that adds port injection for an upgrade but i dont see it worth while for 5 grand yet until i need more power.
I wanna do this on my 2010 A4 2.0L Quattro, any advice? I think it has massive amounts of carbon, because first, in a cold start the car starts just fine, then once I drive it and get to where I’m going then turn it off for about 30 - 60mins then start it again, the crank is longer and kind of weak, or sometimes it just doesn’t start at all on the first crank, then starts on the second. I highly doubt this is a fuel pump issue, or spark plug issue because I don’t have rough idle (well just very slight vibrations on gear when in idle, like “barely noticeable unless you pay attention” slight)
Your best bet is to get a Ross-Tech VCDS and scan for codes first. Easier than doing carbon cleaning, replacing all your injectors and finding out it hasn't solved your problem!
RS5 Fanatic I ran it for codes, check engine light is on. The code it’s throwing is P0299, which is turbo under boost, I replaced the diverter valve but light is still on, I may need to replace the entire turbo, also don’t know if I need to clear the code with VCDS, to determine if it will come back or not. Cause from research, the light would go off on its own after replacing the diverter valve, so chances are it’s the waste gate/turbo. And maybe power loss is minimal for me to notice, idk.
@@EJR20 Yep, clear the codes first and drive around for a bit and see if it comes back. You may need to go into that individual module and clear it there instead of doing it on the main screen which is a global clear. In my experience, the global method doesn't always clear the codes.
RS5 Fanatic may you please elaborate on going to the module to clear it? I’m not quite sure I follow the difference. Thank you.
Hey guy, I drive a humble Red Honda Fit and appreciate the before and after shots. About the catalytic converter, here is a video of before and after:
th-cam.com/video/Uy5YLEDhT_k/w-d-xo.html
It seems the detergents dissolve the carbon fine enough to pass through over time. Again, nice car and video!
Thanks June! Good info.
So, is it worth it or not? Should i do it to my GDI engine or not?
That's ultimately up to you and the condition of your valves currently. I would say this is better as a "maintenance" process in between real carbon cleanings with manual scrubbing. It may even prolong intervals. But again, if you listed to what I said in the video, also consider this may lead to lots of trapped carbon particles in your cats if you do it too often. Catless? No worries then!
@@RS5Fanatic I just bought a hyundai i30 fastback1400cc 140ps t-dgi brand new from the dealer. What do you suggest I do precautionarily to protect my engine? I have done 750km so far and i want your help in order to protect the engine from this thing. Thank you for your help and time.
@@RS5Fanatic What you mean by saying "cats" or "catless" ?
@@opener2869 I have no personal experience with that car. Assuming it's direct injected? If so, do you know if it has secondary port injectors? If so, you'll never need to worry about carbon cleaning. Only direct injected engines with no secondary port injectors have this issue and most new engine designs now come with port injectors to eliminate carbon buildup.
@@opener2869 catalytic converters. With catalytic converters or without catalytic converters. Their slang term is "cats" so we don't have to type out catalytic all the time :). Luckily, I type 60 words a minute!
Get an oil catch can and you don't need those CRC cleaner anymore.
Oil catch cans do very little. Most carbon buildup comes from valve overlap (blowback) in addition to oil getting past the valve guides. The RS5 already has a very sophisticated vapor separation system and while adding an oil catch can system will remove some volatiles out of the air being ingested by the engine, it will not prevent carbon buildup or negate the need for proper carbon cleaning.
Why not just install a catch can? I did and no longer have buildup
The RS5 has a catch can built-in but even adding one (the RS5 would need two) won't completely solve the issue as there are two other sources of carbon on the valves. First one is valve overlap and blowback out of the combustion chamber and the second is oil dripping past the valve guides and onto the valve heads. A catch can won't solve those two issues unfortunately. Even with additional catch cans, not all of the volatiles will be removed out of the air. You'll still have carbon buildup. I will say adding one, installed properly, can't hurt and it will diminish the amount of volatiles entering the intake runner.
I'm surprised how rough the finish is on the intake ports 8:55, just above the valves. Looks like a caveman formed it with a rudimentary chisel and hammer.
Agreed although I can't argue with 107hp/liter. Makes me wonder what a good porting and valve job would yield. R8 intake ports look the same amazingly.
I was thinking the same, it would be interesting to see the results of a good head job on this engine.
Hmmm...🤷♂️MEH..
Beautiful car and great video but what a garbage engineering design by Audi.
Well, think of it this way...every DI engine designed from BMW, to Honda, to GM and Ford, all have the same issue. It wasn't until manufacturers started using secondary port injectors that the problem was solved. Most of Audi's newer engines use both DI and port injection, including the 2nd gen R8, RS3, TTRS, RS5, etc...
RS5 Fanatic All those companies that used this flawed design absolutely KNEW what they were doing. That sucks!