Tips and Test: Very important if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)! Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a vertical line above the saw blade. Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt. Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing . And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft. It is very important that everything is aligned. Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade. Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / HITACHI C12RSH2 / Bosch GCM 8 SDE / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact / Bosch PCM 8 SD. (This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails). (If you want). You can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick to this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw (the wood it will remain in place until the test is completed). Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand (finger) on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine. Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing (test is completed). Step-4. therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned vertical in line above the saw blade. Conclusion: how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing.(don't go for that).
Great review. Very thorough. I actually learned a thing or two about this saw because of this review. Your perspective seems to be in tune for a wide range of users; from novice all the way through to a professional wood worker/craftsman. Thank you!
One problem I have noticed, and confirmed from your video, is that the laser line is blocked by the black plastic sawdust shroud when the saw is dropped to it's cutting depth. The laser is fine to align with your cut when the saw is up, but as you lower it the shroud cuts it off - watch the video at 17:00 onwards and you'll see what I mean. Obviously if your workpiece is secured that won't be an issue, but it does mean you have to line it all up, cut, then check after the cut that the edge of the cut aligns with the line of the laser after the cut has been made, rather than seeing any error during the cut. Probably not a big issue, but it's disconcerting when you first notice it. Aside from that, the only problem I have seen with the saw is that it does throw sawdust around rather than collecting a lot of it. The bag does need emptying a lot though, so it does work. Best advice, buy a cheap blower as well, and a dustpan and brush.
the Laser it’s just for reference it’s saves time when positioning your cutting marks. It’s really helpful to aligning with a angle mark when fitting skirting boards… always check yours cut line with the blade teeth and laser just for reference
Well, it fills up fairly quickly. It must help to a great degree, however the workstation will still need a good sweep down after a long cutting session. It probably misses a fair bit but suspect this it likely on all models unless using powered extraction.
Just bought one and they come separate, you don't need to install them. I didn't install them as I also got the miter saw stand which comes with supports.
Excellent review, subscribed 👍 What kinds of projects have you used it on so far? Have you ever wished you went for a saw with a larger blade? It seems like the prices go way up for 10 inch saws from big brands.
Thanks Roberts! More projects than I can count; including oak book case, stud wall partitions, raised garden beds, chicken pens, plus others. If would be nice if it could manage 4" timber in one cut- can't have everything I suppose. I couldn't justify the extra size, bulk, and price for a larger bladed model. This one generally does 90% of things you're likely to use it for. There's only been a few rare occasions when I would have liked a larger cutting capacity. It seems Makita pricing have increased generally over the last 18 months. This model can still be found around the price I paid though.
hi again Tom, very good video. You mention that you adjusted the laser. I found the nut for moving the laser left and right, but is there a way of aligning it with with the 90 degree cut? The laser is not in line with the square line I mark on a board. Hope this makes sense. Many thanks again, JonB.
The bracket that holds the laser can only adjust left/right. It can only face at the same trajectory as the saw arm and blade. Use the plastic square provided to check alignment between saw blade and fence. I would go by this first, rather than the laser. The laser should confirm the same as explained above. If one edge of your board is out, so is the 90 degree mark you took from it, giving you a false reading. You may have to experiment to conclude which one is lying to you.
May be the area where its sold , like we can have the rapid fire nailers , just press the trigger and it fires a nail every time you press the nailer against something , in some areas nailers must be single fire only , you need to release the trigger and press it again between every nail . This clip did have the info what i was looking for , is there a cut depth limiter and how it works .
@@mrmagic1989 Yes, indeed! This is the first chance I've had to reply with this information, but you've now beaten me to it. When you lift it back to 0 degrees, it clicks, preventing you falling further than 45, unless you engage the black button again.
Its true, if that bothers you, dewalt do some equivalent models that simply "drop down" without the rail. However, they have their differences in terms of features, pros/cons etc. All saws have their compromises.
Makita also has a forward rail version. Just a warning though, it is much heavier and costs quite a bit more than the older design rear rail saw. Bosch, Ridgid and delta also have articulated design saws that don't require real estate in the rear of the saw but be warned, they tend to have more flex in the head so they aren't as accurate. I own the Bosch 10 inch axial glide and already having issues with the miter plate sticking and the knob to bevel right popped right off. From what I've heard the Makita forward rail design is the best saw after the festool kapex on the market right now.
And the other thing with the dws777. It does not have a trench cut stop like said. And also it only cuts 270mm. Where yours cuts 305 I think. So for £25 more the Makita is worth it.
For some people it's also about preserving your physical health- most of us realise at some point that those behemoth beast saws are not worth straining our backs.
For some people it's about money too, and intended use. Why buy a big industrial beast if you are only a hobbyist? Besides, even though the Makita is light, it's far from poor quality.
Buying it tomorrow. Thanks for the helpful review!
Tips and Test:
Very important if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)!
Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a vertical line above the saw blade.
Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt.
Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing .
And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft.
It is very important that everything is aligned.
Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade.
Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / HITACHI C12RSH2 / Bosch GCM 8 SDE / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact / Bosch PCM 8 SD.
(This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails).
(If you want). You can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing.
Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick to this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw (the wood it will remain in place until the test is completed).
Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand (finger) on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine.
Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing (test is completed).
Step-4. therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned vertical in line above the saw blade.
Conclusion: how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing.(don't go for that).
Thx Captain Obvious. 🙄🙄
Great review. Very thorough. I actually learned a thing or two about this saw because of this review. Your perspective seems to be in tune for a wide range of users; from novice all the way through to a professional wood worker/craftsman.
Thank you!
Cheers mate.
One problem I have noticed, and confirmed from your video, is that the laser line is blocked by the black plastic sawdust shroud when the saw is dropped to it's cutting depth. The laser is fine to align with your cut when the saw is up, but as you lower it the shroud cuts it off - watch the video at 17:00 onwards and you'll see what I mean. Obviously if your workpiece is secured that won't be an issue, but it does mean you have to line it all up, cut, then check after the cut that the edge of the cut aligns with the line of the laser after the cut has been made, rather than seeing any error during the cut. Probably not a big issue, but it's disconcerting when you first notice it. Aside from that, the only problem I have seen with the saw is that it does throw sawdust around rather than collecting a lot of it. The bag does need emptying a lot though, so it does work. Best advice, buy a cheap blower as well, and a dustpan and brush.
the Laser it’s just for reference it’s saves time when positioning your cutting marks. It’s really helpful to aligning with a angle mark when fitting skirting boards… always check yours cut line with the blade teeth and laser just for reference
Very good, subbed. where is the saw made? the one I've seen doesn't have a brake.
Great review! Just wondering how it's holding up today, is it still tight and accurate fully extended etc? Thanks.
Yes mate. Appears fine. Blade cuts well and true. Hope this helps. Regards Tom.
Very informative and helpful vid-thanks Tom. Btw what was your assessment of the performance of the dust bag after your check?
Well, it fills up fairly quickly. It must help to a great degree, however the workstation will still need a good sweep down after a long cutting session. It probably misses a fair bit but suspect this it likely on all models unless using powered extraction.
Hi, thanks for the review! Super late to the party here, but is it at all possible to remove the black railings/extensions on the side?
Just bought one and they come separate, you don't need to install them. I didn't install them as I also got the miter saw stand which comes with supports.
Excellent review, subscribed 👍
What kinds of projects have you used it on so far? Have you ever wished you went for a saw with a larger blade? It seems like the prices go way up for 10 inch saws from big brands.
Thanks Roberts! More projects than I can count; including oak book case, stud wall partitions, raised garden beds, chicken pens, plus others. If would be nice if it could manage 4" timber in one cut- can't have everything I suppose. I couldn't justify the extra size, bulk, and price for a larger bladed model. This one generally does 90% of things you're likely to use it for. There's only been a few rare occasions when I would have liked a larger cutting capacity. It seems Makita pricing have increased generally over the last 18 months. This model can still be found around the price I paid though.
hi again Tom, very good video. You mention that you adjusted the laser. I found the nut for moving the laser left and right, but is there a way of aligning it with with the 90 degree cut? The laser is not in line with the square line I mark on a board. Hope this makes sense. Many thanks again, JonB.
The bracket that holds the laser can only adjust left/right. It can only face at the same trajectory as the saw arm and blade. Use the plastic square provided to check alignment between saw blade and fence. I would go by this first, rather than the laser. The laser should confirm the same as explained above. If one edge of your board is out, so is the 90 degree mark you took from it, giving you a false reading. You may have to experiment to conclude which one is lying to you.
@@tomreviews9668 Thank you - you were right - I just corrected the 90 degree cut and the laser line is now fine.
@@mr.arcticson4076 glad you sorted it.
Many Thanks Tom Great Help
Gracias¡¡
Thanks!!
I have heard that there is a lot of problems with this saw. Have you noticed anything about that?
No, it's been fine with me.
I’ve got the same saw but mine doesn’t seem to have the brake on it like yours
May be the area where its sold , like we can have the rapid fire nailers , just press the trigger and it fires a nail every time you press the nailer against something , in some areas nailers must be single fire only , you need to release the trigger and press it again between every nail .
This clip did have the info what i was looking for , is there a cut depth limiter and how it works .
How was it so far? Keep up good work :-)
Great mate, use it regularly.
Dont want to teach you to suck eggs but a good way to cut straight with the circular saw is to use a rafter / speed square..
Good review thanks
Of course, and I do this with my DSS10. Depends on the job really.
This advertised as 48 degree max how do you go past 45 I can't
Never mind I watched the whole video, the manual is garbage you're a hero!
22:06 Black button!
@@mrmagic1989 Yes, indeed! This is the first chance I've had to reply with this information, but you've now beaten me to it. When you lift it back to 0 degrees, it clicks, preventing you falling further than 45, unless you engage the black button again.
Привествую, купил сегодня такую, но у меня тормоза нет, странно
Спасибо за видео
great!
but no blade change which i can tell you is a PAIN IN THE ARSE! :)
The biggest disadvantage I see is this saw extends sooooooo deep, can't get as close to a wall like some others...
Its true, if that bothers you, dewalt do some equivalent models that simply "drop down" without the rail. However, they have their differences in terms of features, pros/cons etc. All saws have their compromises.
Makita also has a forward rail version. Just a warning though, it is much heavier and costs quite a bit more than the older design rear rail saw. Bosch, Ridgid and delta also have articulated design saws that don't require real estate in the rear of the saw but be warned, they tend to have more flex in the head so they aren't as accurate. I own the Bosch 10 inch axial glide and already having issues with the miter plate sticking and the knob to bevel right popped right off. From what I've heard the Makita forward rail design is the best saw after the festool kapex on the market right now.
I think the dewalt dws777 is better but has not groovecut mecanism
It's a close one- actually I almost bought that Dewalt model before deciding on the Makita!
And the other thing with the dws777.
It does not have a trench cut stop like said.
And also it only cuts 270mm.
Where yours cuts 305 I think.
So for £25 more the Makita is worth it.
That Dewalt is ancient and not even sold anymore..
I got one and its garbage go on ebay and get the ls1080 awesome saw i did have one years ago and its one of the best
У меня такая же 👍
Это должно служить вам хорошо
@@tomreviews9668 Thank! I hope. I bought it recently.
The sliding bars on mine have started rusting after only a few months.
Really! Mine is permanently housed in a garage. I haven't had anything like that.
Bro the miter saw i take to job sites is 74 lbs.... It is about quality. ....
For some people it's also about preserving your physical health- most of us realise at some point that those behemoth beast saws are not worth straining our backs.
For some people it's about money too, and intended use. Why buy a big industrial beast if you are only a hobbyist? Besides, even though the Makita is light, it's far from poor quality.