Picking up a 2016 this weekend. The safety wire hook for the oil filter is a nice hack. The finger-dig into the screen hole was significant. Thanks for those tips!
Snap ring pliers work great for the oil filter so you dont't have to poke in there. Set them to open and grap the inside lip if that makes sense. Needle nose pliers will work the same way. Small dental pic works great too. I had none of those at the time. Still poking a pinkly in the hole 🤣 Avatar looks like you're coming off a KLR. Prepare to have your mind blown. Welcome to the orange side 🤙
John, thanks so much for the oil change video. I feel confident now that I can do this myself. You've saved me probably a $150 in shop charges. You da man!
Thanks a lot for responding to my request, John. That was FAST! I will for sure ride much more slow than you, so hoping I can expand oil changes at least every 2000-3000 mi (manual says 10,000 km or 6,000 mi). Awesome video quality and expertise comments and tips! Very smart to change oil often, remove metal particles and use good full synthetic oil. That way you will reduce friction and very well preserve engine wear (amazing LC4 engine deserves it). I looking forward to own my KTM 690 Enduro soon ...I will let you know. Once again, THANK YOU. Keep going and enjoy riding the bike in Hawai island. Good luck!
Appreciate you tuning in. Normal riding those intervals I'm sure are fine (KTM is smart), but half of my riding is bouncing on the rev limiter and the clutch takes abuse. I like to keep that particulate out of there!
Thanks for the metal chips tip. At 3000 miles I did a second oil change and used some 6 inch Q-tips and pulled out a small amount of metal chips in that left side metal screen filter inlet.
Late to the party here but what a great video! Clear, concise and nothing left out. I'm not a wrencher but I feel confident I could easily pull this off after watching your video. There were a couple of good tips also in the comments such a pre oiling the filters. Love your channel! Thanks so much for posting this. Oh yeah....that funnel is the bomb!
Better late than never 😋 Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching 🤙 I’ll put oil on the filter(s) when it’s convenient and not cause a mess. I don’t sweat it otherwise. The motor will be fine while not under load for the extra 1/2 second it takes to cycle it through. The same people who get after me for that, will then run fuel contaminated, thin, dirty oil for 6,000 miles to my every 1,000 mile changes... and then they’ll bitch at me for only changing the paper filters every other change (2,000 miles). “Bro, you don’t change your filters for 6,000 miles. I still change mine 3x as often.” 🤦♂️ Internet is full of all kinds 🤣
Not really necessary to pre oil the filters, its just gonna cause a big mess on these where the filters go in sideways. There is plenty of residual oil already on everthing so running it without oiling anything for a few seconds is totally fine
Personally I pre oil the filters before fitting, surprising how much oil they will absorb and hold without spilling, saves running the engine dry on first start up.
Nicely done video my man ! Concise , to the point snd done right ! I do the same btw…. Filters every second change ...... and I’m in my third 690. ...... been riding them since 2008 ...... over 100000 kM on these bikes ...... cheers !!
Thank you. I would like to note though that I do them every two sometimes just because my service intervals are so frequent. I've replaced one of them with a finer stainless one, so now I do the remaining paper one every time. Fantastic machines. Rubber side down! 🤙
Hi JOHN HOWERTON, one way to keep oil from making a mess on engine may sound strange bug aluminum foil (fold it over) and place over the engine the oil will run over it and you can throw away the foil afterwards.
greg I'd love to, but I'm a few thousand miles away from it and I'm going to have the dealer do it for warrenty purposes. I'm still under warrenty for 8 months. After that, I probably will.
Great video! It would be interesting if there was a 'flush kit' or system to flush out the 'harmful debris' from the motor. I am inclined to use a syringe type system to try to 'suck-out' the residual oil in the bottom of the crankcase and hopefully get out the small particles that you showed. Appreciate the guidance to the process!!
John try spraying wd40 on the case's and other areas that oil gets on prior to the filters being removed it sure makes clean up easier, I ben doing it for years on Harley Davidson and other bikes to just pretty much just spray water and oil just comes off especially in the hard to get to cracks and crevices.
Good tip. I kind of do that on the whole bike before rides, but didn't really think to do it before cleaning, so Kudos. Been using SC1 lately because it also repels ants. Apparently ants love motorcycles if you didn't know. In my old MX days a lot of people used Pam cooking spray to keep stuff from sticking (and I sold them SC1). I might try some of the cheap silicone sprays at the hardware store to see how they work. Might be cheaper than WD these days.
Thank you. Enjoy that big sexy momma. When I rack up a gazillion miles on this 690, my next one might be the 690SMR. I’ll put scrambler/dirttrack racing style knobby tires on it, but the 17” stuff is badass on the street. I didn’t realize how much better it was until I rode my buddy’s 250XC-W with a set of 17s. Sooooo low to the ground. It was crazy nimble! He may actually be selling those wheels... 🤔
John Howerton yeah unfortunately the old owner was a oil field worker and couldn’t use it!!! I come from a crf 450 that i ride in the dunes in vegas and California ,so super pumped to have a bigger bike/ and explore co
@@JohnHowerton137 Hey John, did you ever try the rubber mount vibration reducing handlebar mounts for your bike? Im wondering if they really reduce the vibes.
@@papaduck2443 no, I'm sure they do help, but I'm too cheap (or broke 🤣). I do use foam Rally Grips. If you don't want to use foam ones, you could try Pillowtops from ProTaper or Renthal or a lot of people the fat ProGrip ones. I have Pillowtops on my 450 and Pillowtop Lites on my 200 that I often wear winter style gloves with.
@@JohnHowerton137 Awesome thanks! I was thinking about the foam grips. I heard that they are surprisingly good at reducing the vibration to your hands. Thanks for the info!
For flushing out metal particles on left ports, how about having the bike on side stand then use a syringe with some fuel to flush out the filings by squirting it into the smaller drainage port and let the fuel flow out of the screen port - hopefully with the offending particles.
I suppose that would work. Let it drip dry. Even contact cleaner. I just never wan’t to put anything in the engine that’s not oil… but those products end up in there throughout the bikes lifecycle anyway. Probably better than having bits in there 😉
I always spend money on QUALITY OIL - never had any issues in any of my 2 stroke motocross bikes or 4 strokes (the ones I own) got a big tank DR650 (would love to have a *KTM)!!!!!*
You can. Do an auto transfer of like $40 from your checking to a savings account every two week pay period so you don't see it. Sell some other crap you have laying around, then sell the DR. You'll have one in a year 😁
Make sure you don’t overtighten the screws to the paper filters, it’s only 4NM, I found out the hard way but no damage was done and I got the broken piece out quickly.
It works pretty good. You can feel the shavings. Lots of nerves in your fingertips. Just don’t get any of the sausages stuck in there. Already lubed up, so it’ll be hell to get them out 🤣
The mettle is probably from the sealing of the piston rings when you have a new engine you have rough sides on your pistons and rings they rub together to in theory make a complete seal stopping the oil leaking into the firing
Unlikely. Those tolerances are pretty tight. Mostly likely gears. To my knowledge KTM uses straight cut gears and the shavings are the new gears making love to each other as they break in.
Not trying to be mean, but the 690 turns fairy sharp, so it’s more operator at this point. The bike has a higher center of gravity and weight than a lot of dirt-based bikes so people are afraid or unable to lean to get it to turn. Get some cones or flagging and work on low speed turns in a flat grassy area to boost your confidence. A careful spin of the rear wheel will also get it to turn quickly. It turns way sharper than my 200SX or most of the Kawasaki bikes I’ve ridden.
Like I stated, it's a 2014 & I been ridi over 59 years.. At least i know your opinion by. My 2015 500 & my 2007 525 do have a sharper Handlebar turning angle .
Thanks for sharing. Once I was shown to push a small screw driver through the metal caps on the oil filters and pull it out. This should help avoid pushing a metal wire between the filter and the engine and causing eventual scratches or damages. You damage the filter but it goes out anyway so no need to be extra careful there. I guess there are other hacks and tricks. Like the tip to pre-oil the new filters. Thanks for the tips and comments.
I did 2000 from factory an then changed it full synthetic. 620miles service not sure what they ment by that. lol. I used a screwdriver to stick it in their to line up. It stayed an then I screwed it in .
Just acquired my used 2018 KTM 690 Enduro R today. Was searching for good video on oil change and came across your wonderful " how to " video. Could you explain your break in period frequent oil change? Also once you 're past the break in period what interval ( miles ) will you do oil change. Thanks. Kam
I was riding the hell out of that big girl off-road at the time. I was changing every 1,000 miles. I guess I still am. Looks dirty enough at that interval. Doesn’t really mean anything is compromised, I just kind of anal like that. Just look at a manual online if you don’t have one. KTM intervals should be fine unless you’re bouncing her off the rev-limiter all day.
Okay John just bought myself one of these 2016 and looks like an appendectomy to remove the two spark plugs. Appears to be a coil and cap affair with a bolt holding it in place. You want to show us how to get them out and changed?
Bruce Kennedy ah crap. Maybe in about 1,500 miles I will when the valves need service. Still under warrenty... so I'll probably have it done at the dealer. Plus I have zero time for the next few weeks at least, so sorry 😞
Anyone know the bar height on a 2017 690 endure r? was looking at mine today and it appears to have risers and a bend on the bars.. (total height?) not sure if the pastrana bend will work with with stock cable length.
Detroiit 313 OEM part # for 2018 model claims (130mm height, 805 width, 63 sweep). I sold and used LOTS (7/8” days) of handlebars over a lot of years, I can can tell you right now that is BS. I ran Button bend on my Hondas back in the day (118mm/62mm?) and later switched to 971 Carmichael (99mm/54mm?). Been 20 years so don’t quote those 😉 My current 609 Carmichael at 120mm is no less than 25mm taller and more sweep (at 56mm). The reason I bought it... taller rider, need more sweep for a bad wrist. The Carmichael bar pretty much looks like a supermini bend compared to the OEM 690 bar. And no doubt has more sweep. My achy old arthritis wrist doesn’t lie. If I had to guess OEM is is 80-90mm rise and at most and 40-45mm sweep. When I installed the 609 I removed my 30mm riser and still maintained a similar position. Cant post photos here or I would. The hydraulic clutch and brake lines get pretty tight around 120mm.
@@JohnHowerton137 maybe that's why you have metal shavings in yours I did an oil change last night and I didn't see any metal shavings. I know 10w-50 is a substitute in the manual but that was alot of metal
@@trevorj203 has nothing to do with that and everything to do with me fanning the clutch while popping it off the rev limiter. It's clutch plate. My 690 gets a little more action than your typical 690 😉
@@JohnHowerton137 not trying to be facetious but Wouldn't that be more of a reason to run the heavier better quality oil? Amsiol makes 10w60. I'm an engineer and I would think they had some Engineers spend Time and money trying to figure out which viscosity oil protects there engine the best. I know in the manual it says you could run 10W50 as as a substitute but it also says you could run poor gas on a different map But you should only do that for a tank when it is unavoidable. You seem like you are experienced and I am not trying to argue. It's my first bike and I just like to think things out and sometimes other people help you with that by seeing it a different way or having different experiences.
@@trevorj203 no worries man, I get your point. Different perspectives are good, especially ones that understand engineering principals. It's 20w50. Honda has great engineers too and I change the oil 5-6x more frequently then KTM's recommended interval. My wear has been as good or better than I would expect it to be. They are great bikes. I also have heavier clutch springs installed as I've overheated the clutch several times. My moto bikes used to be a oil change every ride or I risked exploding (literally) clutches and they run 90w. Do what the manual says, it isn't wrong. The way I ride doesn't fit within those standards. If I followed those, my bike would have been blown up long ago.
Torque down all the screws properly with a torque wrench. On LC 4 Engines - Duke (R), SMC-R, Enduro R 6 Nm - 4 lb ft on the oil filter covers (They're M5x16mm btw, threaded into aluminium, they strip out very easily, be careful, unlike you wanna be like me and drive home in a rental car, also clean out any oil that tends to seep into the lower threads by blowing them out with brake cleaner or you will not be able to torque them properly and most likely strip them out) 15 Nm - 11 lb ft on the oil screens 20 Nm - 15 lb ft on the oil drain screw It's also a good idea to just go and buy the complete oil filter kit (75038046110) since it contains all O-Rings, both filters and new oil screens so you can just toss the old ones out. Keep in mind that you have to buy the oil drain screw (58030021000) with the copper washer (58038022000) aswell, they're not included in the kit and have to be replaced everytime. Also LC4's take 10W60, no exception or you'll regret it on hot days.
@@JohnHowerton137 Yeah tomorrow I'll screw in a helicoil and then the beast will roar again without spilling all that new oil I just put in the damn thing.
I wouldn’t either if they were 6k changes, but these are 1k changes, so 3 new sets of filters in the same amount of time that the manual would call for one set...
When I’m riding it like one it is. Most the time she’s on the street now and goes every 2-2,5. That’s plenty long and it’s definitely due when it comes out.
Picking up a 2016 this weekend. The safety wire hook for the oil filter is a nice hack. The finger-dig into the screen hole was significant. Thanks for those tips!
Snap ring pliers work great for the oil filter so you dont't have to poke in there. Set them to open and grap the inside lip if that makes sense. Needle nose pliers will work the same way. Small dental pic works great too. I had none of those at the time.
Still poking a pinkly in the hole 🤣
Avatar looks like you're coming off a KLR. Prepare to have your mind blown. Welcome to the orange side 🤙
John, thanks so much for the oil change video. I feel confident now that I can do this myself. You've saved me probably a $150 in shop charges. You da man!
David Oturf You're welcome. Enjoy that big beautiful beast! ✊
I'm definitely going to be watching this again when I change my oil for the first time on my brand new bike
Thanks a lot for responding to my request, John. That was FAST!
I will for sure ride much more slow than you, so hoping I can expand oil changes at least every 2000-3000 mi (manual says 10,000 km or 6,000 mi).
Awesome video quality and expertise comments and tips! Very smart to change oil often, remove metal particles and use good full synthetic oil. That way you will reduce friction and very well preserve engine wear (amazing LC4 engine deserves it).
I looking forward to own my KTM 690 Enduro soon ...I will let you know.
Once again, THANK YOU.
Keep going and enjoy riding the bike in Hawai island. Good luck!
Appreciate you tuning in.
Normal riding those intervals I'm sure are fine (KTM is smart), but half of my riding is bouncing on the rev limiter and the clutch takes abuse. I like to keep that particulate out of there!
Thanks for the metal chips tip. At 3000 miles I did a second oil change and used some 6 inch Q-tips and pulled out a small amount of metal chips in that left side metal screen filter inlet.
There’s a surprising amount of clutch plate (alum) in there sometimes.
Late to the party here but what a great video! Clear, concise and nothing left out. I'm not a wrencher but I feel confident I could easily pull this off after watching your video. There were a couple of good tips also in the comments such a pre oiling the filters. Love your channel! Thanks so much for posting this. Oh yeah....that funnel is the bomb!
Better late than never 😋 Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching 🤙
I’ll put oil on the filter(s) when it’s convenient and not cause a mess. I don’t sweat it otherwise. The motor will be fine while not under load for the extra 1/2 second it takes to cycle it through. The same people who get after me for that, will then run fuel contaminated, thin, dirty oil for 6,000 miles to my every 1,000 mile changes... and then they’ll bitch at me for only changing the paper filters every other change (2,000 miles). “Bro, you don’t change your filters for 6,000 miles. I still change mine 3x as often.” 🤦♂️ Internet is full of all kinds 🤣
Not really necessary to pre oil the filters, its just gonna cause a big mess on these where the filters go in sideways. There is plenty of residual oil already on everthing so running it without oiling anything for a few seconds is totally fine
Personally I pre oil the filters before fitting, surprising how much oil they will absorb and hold without spilling, saves running the engine dry on first start up.
Britishshooter no doubt that's the best way to do it.
Same here. I just put the bike on it's side and fill the filter and it's housing up.
Great vid especially love the funnel with threaded covers-going out looking for one today!
Thanks for all you've done on this bike so far. I bought one recently and this channel and the info you provide helped in that decision immensely.
KC K awesome! Appreciate you tuning in 🤙
Nicely done video my man ! Concise , to the point snd done right ! I do the same btw…. Filters every second change ...... and I’m in my third 690. ...... been riding them since 2008 ...... over 100000 kM on these bikes ...... cheers !!
Thank you. I would like to note though that I do them every two sometimes just because my service intervals are so frequent. I've replaced one of them with a finer stainless one, so now I do the remaining paper one every time.
Fantastic machines. Rubber side down! 🤙
Hi JOHN HOWERTON, one way to keep oil from making a mess on engine may sound strange bug aluminum foil (fold it over) and place over the engine the oil will run over it and you can throw away the foil afterwards.
Good easy tip 👍
I know it is basic information but just having bought a 2007 690 SMC, my first KTM, it was extremely helpful. Thanks
HAPPYKZ You're welcome. Even if it's not anything hard, it's always nice to know what you're getting into 🤙
Great video John thanks for sharing. How about taking us through the valve clearance procedure next.
greg I'd love to, but I'm a few thousand miles away from it and I'm going to have the dealer do it for warrenty purposes. I'm still under warrenty for 8 months. After that, I probably will.
Great video! It would be interesting if there was a 'flush kit' or system to flush out the 'harmful debris' from the motor. I am inclined to use a syringe type system to try to 'suck-out' the residual oil in the bottom of the crankcase and hopefully get out the small particles that you showed. Appreciate the guidance to the process!!
Yeah, would be nice. Until then my pinky finger, paper towel and a few minutes of persistence gets a good bit of it out 🤣 Thanks for watching 🤙
John try spraying wd40 on the case's and other areas that oil gets on prior to the filters being removed it sure makes clean up easier, I ben doing it for years on Harley Davidson and other bikes to just pretty much just spray water and oil just comes off especially in the hard to get to cracks and crevices.
Good tip. I kind of do that on the whole bike before rides, but didn't really think to do it before cleaning, so Kudos.
Been using SC1 lately because it also repels ants. Apparently ants love motorcycles if you didn't know. In my old MX days a lot of people used Pam cooking spray to keep stuff from sticking (and I sold them SC1). I might try some of the cheap silicone sprays at the hardware store to see how they work. Might be cheaper than WD these days.
Thanks John, nice bike, nice video, you made it all the way to Amsterdam where i'm skidding through the streets with my SMC ;)
Thank you. Enjoy that big sexy momma. When I rack up a gazillion miles on this 690, my next one might be the 690SMR. I’ll put scrambler/dirttrack racing style knobby tires on it, but the 17” stuff is badass on the street. I didn’t realize how much better it was until I rode my buddy’s 250XC-W with a set of 17s. Sooooo low to the ground. It was crazy nimble! He may actually be selling those wheels... 🤔
Great videos. Im new to the dirt bike style stuff an your videos help out alot 👍
I always pre oil my filters before installing great video
Yeah, it's not a bad idea. Anymore I pour in enough to soak the paper, but don't go out of my way to let them drip all over.
Super helpful for my first oil change. Thanks
Happy it helped. Enjoy that big beauty! 🤙
Just got a 2018 with 300 miles:)
From Colorado
Ive enjoyed your videos !!!!!
TBailey 😍 nice find! Great machine for Colorado. Surprised you found one.
John Howerton yeah unfortunately the old owner was a oil field worker and couldn’t use it!!! I come from a crf 450 that i ride in the dunes in vegas and California ,so super pumped to have a bigger bike/ and explore co
TBailey well, he could probably afford the loss, so your gain 👍
Totally different animals, but you learn to love it in a different way.
@@Bigbailey93 Same here I just bought a 2018 two months ago and I love it! I live in the CO springs area, what about you? We should ride sometime.
Great vid man! I used it to change the oil for the first time on my bike. Very helpful!
Always nice to watch a quick review of a process before tackling a project. Glad it helped 🤙
@@JohnHowerton137
Hey John, did you ever try the rubber mount vibration reducing handlebar mounts for your bike? Im wondering if they really reduce the vibes.
@@papaduck2443 no, I'm sure they do help, but I'm too cheap (or broke 🤣).
I do use foam Rally Grips. If you don't want to use foam ones, you could try Pillowtops from ProTaper or Renthal or a lot of people the fat ProGrip ones. I have Pillowtops on my 450 and Pillowtop Lites on my 200 that I often wear winter style gloves with.
@@JohnHowerton137
Awesome thanks! I was thinking about the foam grips. I heard that they are surprisingly good at reducing the vibration to your hands. Thanks for the info!
@@papaduck2443 finding the right ones is the hardest part. Look for Rally Racing grips.
John, you might try one of those pen magnets (or any other small magnet) to get the shavings from the oil ports.
Michael Marshall the plug itself is magnetic. KTM feature 👌 The shavings are probably aluminum clutch plate. I’m a banger. I love those R’s ✊
For flushing out metal particles on left ports, how about having the bike on side stand then use a syringe with some fuel to flush out the filings by squirting it into the smaller drainage port and let the fuel flow out of the screen port - hopefully with the offending particles.
I suppose that would work. Let it drip dry. Even contact cleaner. I just never wan’t to put anything in the engine that’s not oil… but those products end up in there throughout the bikes lifecycle anyway. Probably better than having bits in there 😉
I always spend money on QUALITY OIL - never had any issues in any of my 2 stroke motocross bikes or 4 strokes (the ones I own) got a big tank DR650 (would love to have a *KTM)!!!!!*
You can. Do an auto transfer of like $40 from your checking to a savings account every two week pay period so you don't see it. Sell some other crap you have laying around, then sell the DR. You'll have one in a year 😁
@@JohnHowerton137 I am goin to sell that DR to, but YES the KTM/Husky bikes are where it is at.
@@mt1885 your foil tip makes an appearance in a future video. Stay tuned 😀
@@JohnHowerton137 Thanks John - I know it sounds funny or really backwoods but it does work good. 👍
Aris Torm I'm cool with backwoods.. that's where I'm from 🤣
Thanks for the video bro. Just got a brand new 2018
Ryan Heppe welcome. Congrats! ✊
Great vid, appreciate you posting it.
Make sure you don’t overtighten the screws to the paper filters, it’s only 4NM, I found out the hard way but no damage was done and I got the broken piece out quickly.
Yeah, fine thread.
Great idea of cleaning the screen hole with your finger. I’m going to think about something a little better
It works pretty good. You can feel the shavings. Lots of nerves in your fingertips. Just don’t get any of the sausages stuck in there. Already lubed up, so it’ll be hell to get them out 🤣
The mettle is probably from the sealing of the piston rings when you have a new engine you have rough sides on your pistons and rings they rub together to in theory make a complete seal stopping the oil leaking into the firing
Unlikely. Those tolerances are pretty tight. Mostly likely gears. To my knowledge KTM uses straight cut gears and the shavings are the new gears making love to each other as they break in.
Excellent video!
Yeah, do a video on the fork-stops adjustment!
I'm working on a 200 for a guy this week that needs that done. If I have time I'll see if I can do that.
Thank YOU. When I first bought the 2013 690 I fell down because the front wheel don't turn enough.
Ugg, it's a 2014 690!;even after I adjusted the fork stops it ain't enough!
Not trying to be mean, but the 690 turns fairy sharp, so it’s more operator at this point. The bike has a higher center of gravity and weight than a lot of dirt-based bikes so people are afraid or unable to lean to get it to turn. Get some cones or flagging and work on low speed turns in a flat grassy area to boost your confidence. A careful spin of the rear wheel will also get it to turn quickly. It turns way sharper than my 200SX or most of the Kawasaki bikes I’ve ridden.
Like I stated, it's a 2014 & I been ridi over 59 years.. At least i know your opinion by. My 2015 500 & my 2007 525 do have a sharper Handlebar turning angle .
Thanks, very helpful. Are the oil screens the same size?
Yes, KTM number 59038016200
Wow thx for the video! Are you in Hawai’i? Where you stay cuz? I recognize the bird call in the background.
FBI 🤙
Thanks for sharing. Once I was shown to push a small screw driver through the metal caps on the oil filters and pull it out. This should help avoid pushing a metal wire between the filter and the engine and causing eventual scratches or damages. You damage the filter but it goes out anyway so no need to be extra careful there. I guess there are other hacks and tricks. Like the tip to pre-oil the new filters. Thanks for the tips and comments.
I use snap-ring pliers usually now that I have a pair. Super easy
Wow 2 filters and 2 screens, for such a small engine. Wonder why they designed it this way?
Michel Rea long service intervals. 6,000 miles is a long time, too long for my comfort.
I did 2000 from factory an then changed it full synthetic. 620miles service not sure what they ment by that. lol. I used a screwdriver to stick it in their to line up. It stayed an then I screwed it in .
Hi, thank you for this tutorial, so it's not necessary to replace the o rings? What about the washer of the drain screw?
Good in practice, yes! Necessary every time, no. Unless of course something is damaged.
Just acquired my used 2018 KTM 690 Enduro R today. Was searching for good video on oil change and came across your wonderful " how to " video. Could you explain your break in period frequent oil change? Also once you 're past the break in period what interval ( miles ) will you do oil change. Thanks. Kam
I was riding the hell out of that big girl off-road at the time. I was changing every 1,000 miles. I guess I still am. Looks dirty enough at that interval. Doesn’t really mean anything is compromised, I just kind of anal like that. Just look at a manual online if you don’t have one. KTM intervals should be fine unless you’re bouncing her off the rev-limiter all day.
Okay John just bought myself one of these 2016 and looks like an appendectomy to remove the two spark plugs. Appears to be a coil and cap affair with a bolt holding it in place. You want to show us how to get them out and changed?
Bruce Kennedy ah crap. Maybe in about 1,500 miles I will when the valves need service. Still under warrenty... so I'll probably have it done at the dealer. Plus I have zero time for the next few weeks at least, so sorry 😞
I don’t start my bike with dry filters. Put a little new oil inside the new filters
I do usually too. Not sure it matters. They system has to prime anyway.
Great video
I didn’t see a dip stick on the filler cap. Also, mine has a sight glass to see when it’s full.
There isn’t one. The clutch basket is directly under most bike’s cap. 690 only has a window.
Thanks.JHB-SA.
Great Vid, Sub+ just bought a clean low mileage 2018
Congrats! If you have questions, come back and drop a comment. I'll answer whatever I can
@@JohnHowerton137 awesome man, appreciate that! Pick it up Wednesday. Moving from a KLR to my 1st KTM!
Ryan ,redrider736 mind will be blown 🤯 Apples and Oranges.
Super ❤
easier than dads can am f3 lol.
Anyone know the bar height on a 2017 690 endure r? was looking at mine today and it appears to have risers and a bend on the bars.. (total height?)
not sure if the pastrana bend will work with with stock cable length.
Detroiit 313 OEM part # for 2018 model claims (130mm height, 805 width, 63 sweep). I sold and used LOTS (7/8” days) of handlebars over a lot of years, I can can tell you right now that is BS. I ran Button bend on my Hondas back in the day (118mm/62mm?) and later switched to 971 Carmichael (99mm/54mm?). Been 20 years so don’t quote those 😉
My current 609 Carmichael at 120mm is no less than 25mm taller and more sweep (at 56mm). The reason I bought it... taller rider, need more sweep for a bad wrist. The Carmichael bar pretty much looks like a supermini bend compared to the OEM 690 bar. And no doubt has more sweep. My achy old arthritis wrist doesn’t lie. If I had to guess OEM is is 80-90mm rise and at most and 40-45mm sweep. When I installed the 609 I removed my 30mm riser and still maintained a similar position. Cant post photos here or I would.
The hydraulic clutch and brake lines get pretty tight around 120mm.
I have a 2016 and calls for 10w 60 does yours call for a different weight oil because it's a different year
Mines's a '18. I'm sure it calls for whatever your's does.
As long as it meets the rating it doesn't really matter.
@@JohnHowerton137 maybe that's why you have metal shavings in yours I did an oil change last night and I didn't see any metal shavings. I know 10w-50 is a substitute in the manual but that was alot of metal
@@trevorj203 has nothing to do with that and everything to do with me fanning the clutch while popping it off the rev limiter. It's clutch plate. My 690 gets a little more action than your typical 690 😉
@@JohnHowerton137 not trying to be facetious but Wouldn't that be more of a reason to run the heavier better quality oil? Amsiol makes 10w60.
I'm an engineer and I would think they had some Engineers spend Time and money trying to figure out which viscosity oil protects there engine the best. I know in the manual it says you could run 10W50 as as a substitute but it also says you could run poor gas on a different map But you should only do that for a tank when it is unavoidable. You seem like you are experienced and I am not trying to argue. It's my first bike and I just like to think things out and sometimes other people help you with that by seeing it a different way or having different experiences.
@@trevorj203 no worries man, I get your point. Different perspectives are good, especially ones that understand engineering principals. It's 20w50. Honda has great engineers too and I change the oil 5-6x more frequently then KTM's recommended interval. My wear has been as good or better than I would expect it to be. They are great bikes. I also have heavier clutch springs installed as I've overheated the clutch several times.
My moto bikes used to be a oil change every ride or I risked exploding (literally) clutches and they run 90w.
Do what the manual says, it isn't wrong. The way I ride doesn't fit within those standards. If I followed those, my bike would have been blown up long ago.
What front tire are you running on that bike
In this video a Metzler MC360 Mid/Hard.
Currently MOTOZ Tractionator Desert.
why not do a motor flush also?
Flush with what?
What do you use to clean the screens?
David Oturf probably doesn't matter too much, but carb/brake cleaner. Dries fast without residue.
@@JohnHowerton137 Thanks, Buddy!
Torque down all the screws properly with a torque wrench.
On LC 4 Engines - Duke (R), SMC-R, Enduro R
6 Nm - 4 lb ft on the oil filter covers (They're M5x16mm btw, threaded into aluminium, they strip out very easily, be careful, unlike you wanna be like me and drive home in a rental car, also clean out any oil that tends to seep into the lower threads by blowing them out with brake cleaner or you will not be able to torque them properly and most likely strip them out)
15 Nm - 11 lb ft on the oil screens
20 Nm - 15 lb ft on the oil drain screw
It's also a good idea to just go and buy the complete oil filter kit (75038046110) since it contains all O-Rings, both filters and new oil screens so you can just toss the old ones out. Keep in mind that you have to buy the oil drain screw (58030021000) with the copper washer (58038022000) aswell, they're not included in the kit and have to be replaced everytime.
Also LC4's take 10W60, no exception or you'll regret it on hot days.
Good practice.
Thanks for taking one for the team 😆
@@JohnHowerton137 Yeah tomorrow I'll screw in a helicoil and then the beast will roar again without spilling all that new oil I just put in the damn thing.
Arcuz liquid gold at $20+ quart for the Motorex stuff!
Thanks for posting the Torque values, I'll add that you should use a decent quality Torque wrench or you'll still break things! :)
take photos at every stage
lol 690 has duble finters and screens... the exc 500 has 1 filter and 1 screen..
What's your point?
@@JohnHowerton137 i just wonder why the engine needs so many filters thats all 😄
Stretches the service intervals to about 6x that of the EXC.
I don't agree with filter change every second change.
I wouldn’t either if they were 6k changes, but these are 1k changes, so 3 new sets of filters in the same amount of time that the manual would call for one set...
19:15 lol
every 1000 miles? its not a ktm500 kiddo
When I’m riding it like one it is.
Most the time she’s on the street now and goes every 2-2,5. That’s plenty long and it’s definitely due when it comes out.