Thank you for this video! I have been trying to decide if I should go with tile redi pan or use Wedi shower base and I am likely going with tile redi pan due to ease of install and less possibility for failures. Please keep up these videos! I'm looking forward to seeing the rest of the shower come together. The content here is great.
Nice detailed description, thanks! I just purchased Redi-Tile shower pan 60"x32" with R/H drain. The drain Spec say to make a 6" hole 13" off the back wall and 6" from the side wall and the spec is wrong! Thankfully, I didn't bore the drain hole before the pan arrived because the actual measurements to bore the hole is 15-1/2" x 6". Yes, I was reading the correct spec, lol.
The 6” off the side is always correct. Depending on the width, the center hole will vary. Contact Tile Redi and let them know the cad is incorrect so they can fix it. 👍. Thank you for your kind words.
Dry fit dry fit dry fit. You won't have any problems with the drain. I just did this same install last month and I mostly credit your earlier videos for helping it go smoothly. I didn't feel like cutting a hole in my 1st floor ceiling so I tackled it from above. I have a copper water line running under the drain that I was able to pull up on during the installation from the wall to make sure the drain seated. I used a 32x60 pan with the trench drain but walls on three sides. I thought about making a video of it but yours are plenty and it doesn't really fit my channel lol. PS the most pain in the ass part of this job for me was bringing the walls to the pan so there was a flat transition to the walls. In other words the pan was a half inch short to the rough in. Also a pro tip, when it says to make the mortar wet like a milkshake DO IT. Mine was on a thick side even though I thought it wasn't and it was a mother effer to get it seated down into the mortar bed. Thanks again for your Tile Redi videos Sir. We also used their flashing, their Niches, their shaving shelf, and their shower doors. It's expensive but it just WORKS.
Also my house is old enough that it is plumed with 1.5" drain so I used a 1.5" P trap which makes there so much more room and more flexibility in the floor joists. Trap to trench drain is upsized to 2" on the vertical. It worked perfectly. I used TYPE S Mortar and it sucked to work with.
@@PNW_Car_Mods did you have ABS or PVC plumbing up to the PVC drain fitting in the pan? also, did you account for any vertical height addition when the pan was set into the mortar so that you cut the vertical drain plumbing stub tube to the right height to mate with the shower pan drain?
@@zkosslow My house is plumbed in ABS. Tile Redi was pretty adamant that they wanted PVC glued to their trench drain. So I did a replacement ABS P trap and then did the stub or riser up to the drain in PVC. Used green glue for the PVC riser into ABS trap and then used standard primer and PVC glue from my white stub into the drain if that makes sense. You can make the riser into the drain a little long if need be. Also you need to support the drain so that it doesn't push away from you when you set the pan in place. Use either wood blocking or the metal strapping you often see as a drain support. In theory your mortar should be so runny that the pan sinks all the way to the bottom. I came up about an 1/8 inch short on fully seated into the drain while trying to seat the pan with all my might but I have no doubt that my stub /riser is seated plenty far enough to never leak. Hope this helps. I know it was a bit intimidating to set the pan in place for the real moment.
Above floor definitely more work, I used 2 p traps to get it right, also had to secure the p trap with concrete. I dry fit and let it set until concrete dried.
Yes sir! I go over why it was a tough install in the video but to sum it up, 1. I used type S/M mortar for the first time and I absolutely hated it. 2. There was a flex in my 2” waste pipe that made the connection difficult. The joists were running a weird way to the waste and I had a really hard time with it. I recommend a below substrate install for the waste lines after the base is set. It’s so much easier. 👍
@@TodayIWorkOnI have seen some installs that use tar paper rather than garbage bags -- My common sense meter was flashing a red light --- Wouldn't the base slip and slide around on a plastic or tar paper which is just laying on top of a plywood sub-floor? What am I not understanding about adherence to the sub-floor?
1:45 Looking at all of those open slots that Redi expects the customer to support and keep it level? with concrete ? Makes me wonder why Redi doesn't fill them with a level and suitable kind of foam at the factory? You can see how thick all of those slats built-in under the pan already are. Are they all level with the floor? Some of those pans are more than $1,000 and Redi makes the customer/contractor worry with wet concrete ??? All of the shower pans I have had in the past 70 yrs. where never set Blindly in concrete.
The slats sit on the floor, the mortar needs to fill and expand on the fins to lock in the pan and harden it up. Foam would not be enough to support tile since tile can't flex at all. If the pan is off a little, you can shim a little to achieve level OR you can lay self leveling cement first, like I did in my own master bath a few years ago to achieve level. It's not concrete, it's mortar, two totally different materials. The engineers at Tile Redi have thousands and thousands of pans in homes, hotels and other areas with success.
I think the formula for figuring mortar is the deepest rib depth minus 1/2 inch or something like that..?..We put in a redi pan that was 72x42 inches. That pan required 1 inch of mortar (2 & 1/3 bags) on a wood subfloor that was water proofed red guard before hand.
What suggestions do you have for working on concrete slab that with post tension cable running throughout foundation and unable to cut or otherwise manipulate drain or its location???
I would order a custom base with a location of the drain that will work for you. A standard drain will probably not work in your situation. Good luck! I’ve done concrete slab installs. They are not easy.
Great video! Did you account for any vertical height addition when the pan was set into the mortar so that you cut the vertical drain plumbing stub tube to the right height to mate with the shower pan drain? Or just assume the shower pan was like it was sitting on the subfloor at dry-fitting (i.e. no accommodation for additional height from mortar)?
The base should sit pretty flat on the plywood, give or take 1/8” of an inch. Out of dozens of pans I’ve installed over the years, this was actually me worst install, figures, right? I did go over the measurements you need to get the 2” pipe at the right height. Unfortunately, my pipe flexed a little because it was a weird stub out and I had the pan raised 3/8” of an inch. The perfect install is flat to 1/4” tops. As long as you have a lot of mortar, you can play with the base, it will set up solid. Good luck with the install. I’m going to do another video of an alcove above the plywood install that should go way smoother.
@@TodayIWorkOn Fantastic! Thanks for the quick feedback. Should be setting my pan on Saturday... got all the anxiety! But your videos have helped a ton over the stock video from Tile Redi!
A year later, she as solid as…. You know. If you are familiar with the tile redi system, flex is apparent as soon as the base is set if not installed properly. If you have flex, tile will be popping soon after install. Lastly, the base is reinforced around the drain because the engineers at the company are smart and know you can’t install a lot of mortar at that specific area. This comment is to assure most that watch the video that you can make a smallish square cut and be totally fine. 🤌
Thanks for the video! Did you fill the void in the curb of the shower pan? I have a redi-tile pan with 2 curbs that I would like to use with frame less glass. Just wondering if it ca be done. Keep up the videos; very educating!
I do not fill in the curbs since the tile does most of the work making it pretty solid. Never had an issue with any of the pans I’ve installed… I’m actually staring at another install right now that I’m grouting. Good luck with the project!
They do it in a TileRedi instruction video, though instructions say, do not! th-cam.com/video/PUS_YvJBkOw/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TileRedi See 17:21 mark. I'm going to carefully stand in mine to set it.
hoping you see this comment. Im wondering about the fit between the drain PVC and the drain of the base. mine seems to rest directly on top when i dry fit. the PVC doesnt actually enter the tile ready drain pipe. is this expected/normal? im a lay person so sorry if a stupid question.
That’s not expected. The tile Redi pan might be hitting the subfloor and not dropping down to properly connect to the drain pipe. If you watch my videos, the pan is touching the subfloor. Something is not right.
We just had a contractor install a TileRedi Linear pan and there is flex all around the drain. Is this normal? He also installed from above. I think he may have stubbed the drain too high.
How far away from the drain? If it's 12" from the drain that's an issue. If it's in the drain itself, that's fine. I would have to see a video of the flex to know if it's no good.
I've watched several videos on this system and it appears to be very difficult with no wiggle room for the slightest mistake. I wouldn't suggest it to the occasional DIY'er because it will either leak from a poor drain connection and you may have to pull it out to redo which will ruin the drain if it only partially stuck together incorrectly. Too many gotcha's waiting to getcha.
An above the plywood/substrate install is not the easiest install, BUT, if you have access to the bottom of the subfloor, it’s way easier. I recommended not attaching the waste line until the base is set. You are not wrong in that assumption about it being hard. It’s hard and that’s why I put this video up. To show it’s not easy.
NOTE: th-cam.com/video/P-I5ZGPTBj8/w-d-xo.html The Tile Redi company video will provide more needed install information to follow. On the Tile Redi web site, the underpan mortar is to be pulled back away from all walls 1" before dropping the pan into place! To insure mortar stays inside the pan for contact. Also, Tile Redi states type N or type S mortar can be used.
Unmodified mortar thinset can also be used, which is confirmed by tileredi engineers which I prefer since it’s way easier to lay down. Great info from the directions.
This is a PVC drain attachment, which is verified in the tile Redi instruction. I totally understand your thoughts about this. When I first installed the pan, I had the same question. It’s very rare to see ABS anymore. I actually have ABS in my own house and there’s a distinct difference between the PVC and ABS. 👍
@@TodayIWorkOn thank you for the quick reply! Yea I’m using this pan for the first time soon. Installing a 42x48 pan with center drain and a double sided curb with glass doors and 90degree return panel but by the looks of it this will pan will save me a lot of time then the traditional mud pans and I had to make and the shower curbs you had to make and waterproof
You ask a great question. The mortar is not there to adhere the base, It’s there to set the base. It’s a very large difference how you need to perceive what needs to be done. Does that makes sense?
I am pretty sure this is all wrong. You use thin-set mortar troweled out with a notched trowel. like a setting a tile. Directly to the subfloor no plastic. don't step in it after it is set, till it cures. In other words read the installation instructions from TileRedi.
The great part about this system, you know the next morning if it’s good. If the base is rock solid, like this one was, it’s installed properly. After 3 dozen or so, you know what works and what doesn’t. Stepping in the pan for a quick second to check level is fine when the pan is very large. A 4x5 pan… impossible not to get into it for a second. I actually have a relationship with the head engineer at Tile Redi, they love my videos. 😬. PS- Nobody listen to Mark, your pan will fail.
Again They do it in a TileRedi instruction video, though instructions say, do not! th-cam.com/video/PUS_YvJBkOw/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TileRedi See 17:21 mark. I'm going to carefully stand in mine to set it. You do not use a notched trowel for this.
I'm just heading into my own tile redi project and really love your video's - it is the uncensored experience! Great job!
Love your explanation. That was what I was looking for on internet before putting my 60x42 tile ready shower pan. Thank you.
Seriously, thanks for doing these, best Tile Redi vids on TH-cam!
Thank you for this video! I have been trying to decide if I should go with tile redi pan or use Wedi shower base and I am likely going with tile redi pan due to ease of install and less possibility for failures. Please keep up these videos! I'm looking forward to seeing the rest of the shower come together. The content here is great.
Nice detailed description, thanks! I just purchased Redi-Tile shower pan 60"x32" with R/H drain. The drain Spec say to make a 6" hole 13" off the back wall and 6" from the side wall and the spec is wrong! Thankfully, I didn't bore the drain hole before the pan arrived because the actual measurements to bore the hole is
15-1/2" x 6". Yes, I was reading the correct spec, lol.
The 6” off the side is always correct. Depending on the width, the center hole will vary. Contact Tile Redi and let them know the cad is incorrect so they can fix it. 👍. Thank you for your kind words.
Dry fit dry fit dry fit. You won't have any problems with the drain. I just did this same install last month and I mostly credit your earlier videos for helping it go smoothly. I didn't feel like cutting a hole in my 1st floor ceiling so I tackled it from above. I have a copper water line running under the drain that I was able to pull up on during the installation from the wall to make sure the drain seated. I used a 32x60 pan with the trench drain but walls on three sides. I thought about making a video of it but yours are plenty and it doesn't really fit my channel lol. PS the most pain in the ass part of this job for me was bringing the walls to the pan so there was a flat transition to the walls. In other words the pan was a half inch short to the rough in. Also a pro tip, when it says to make the mortar wet like a milkshake DO IT. Mine was on a thick side even though I thought it wasn't and it was a mother effer to get it seated down into the mortar bed. Thanks again for your Tile Redi videos Sir. We also used their flashing, their Niches, their shaving shelf, and their shower doors. It's expensive but it just WORKS.
Also my house is old enough that it is plumed with 1.5" drain so I used a 1.5" P trap which makes there so much more room and more flexibility in the floor joists. Trap to trench drain is upsized to 2" on the vertical. It worked perfectly. I used TYPE S Mortar and it sucked to work with.
@@PNW_Car_Mods did you have ABS or PVC plumbing up to the PVC drain fitting in the pan? also, did you account for any vertical height addition when the pan was set into the mortar so that you cut the vertical drain plumbing stub tube to the right height to mate with the shower pan drain?
@@zkosslow My house is plumbed in ABS. Tile Redi was pretty adamant that they wanted PVC glued to their trench drain. So I did a replacement ABS P trap and then did the stub or riser up to the drain in PVC. Used green glue for the PVC riser into ABS trap and then used standard primer and PVC glue from my white stub into the drain if that makes sense. You can make the riser into the drain a little long if need be. Also you need to support the drain so that it doesn't push away from you when you set the pan in place. Use either wood blocking or the metal strapping you often see as a drain support. In theory your mortar should be so runny that the pan sinks all the way to the bottom. I came up about an 1/8 inch short on fully seated into the drain while trying to seat the pan with all my might but I have no doubt that my stub /riser is seated plenty far enough to never leak. Hope this helps. I know it was a bit intimidating to set the pan in place for the real moment.
Glad you liked my 2" plumbing magic tool video you are correct the next day after installing the tile redi pan it is hard as concrete
Above floor definitely more work, I used 2 p traps to get it right, also had to secure the p trap with concrete. I dry fit and let it set until concrete dried.
Well you seemed a bit nervous in this video -- unlike the other later videos where you seem a lot more confident and relaxed?
Yes sir!
I go over why it was a tough install in the video but to sum it up,
1. I used type S/M mortar for the first time and I absolutely hated it.
2. There was a flex in my 2” waste pipe that made the connection difficult. The joists were running a weird way to the waste and I had a really hard time with it.
I recommend a below substrate install for the waste lines after the base is set. It’s so much easier. 👍
This is fantastic, thank you for the video!
Thank you for the kind comment! Good luck with your project!
If you are turning tub/shower into walkin shower high, high up do you need to add cement board or whatever?
Great video I am dealing with same situation
Test fit, test fit again and like I said in this video, make sure there's zero flex on that waste line.
Uh oh. I already put hardee backer on top the wood subfloor. Can I still use garbage bags on top?
Yes.
@@TodayIWorkOnI have seen some installs that use tar paper rather than garbage bags -- My common sense meter was flashing a red light --- Wouldn't the base slip and slide around on a plastic or tar paper which is just laying on top of a plywood sub-floor? What am I not understanding about adherence to the sub-floor?
1:45 Looking at all of those open slots that Redi expects the customer to support and keep it level? with concrete ?
Makes me wonder why Redi doesn't fill them with a level and suitable kind of foam at the factory? You can see how thick all of those slats built-in under the pan already are. Are they all level with the floor? Some of those pans are more than $1,000 and Redi makes the customer/contractor worry with wet concrete ??? All of the shower pans I have had in the past 70 yrs. where never set Blindly in concrete.
The slats sit on the floor, the mortar needs to fill and expand on the fins to lock in the pan and harden it up. Foam would not be enough to support tile since tile can't flex at all. If the pan is off a little, you can shim a little to achieve level OR you can lay self leveling cement first, like I did in my own master bath a few years ago to achieve level. It's not concrete, it's mortar, two totally different materials. The engineers at Tile Redi have thousands and thousands of pans in homes, hotels and other areas with success.
I think the formula for figuring mortar is the deepest rib depth minus 1/2 inch or something like that..?..We put in a redi pan that was 72x42 inches. That pan required 1 inch of mortar (2 & 1/3 bags) on a wood subfloor that was water proofed red guard before hand.
Before you put the trash bags down, did you replace the plywood in the middle section to provide structure?
100% was repaired before trash bag was put down. The tile Redi base can't flex or you can have issues.
What suggestions do you have for working on concrete slab that with post tension cable running throughout foundation and unable to cut or otherwise manipulate drain or its location???
I would order a custom base with a location of the drain that will work for you. A standard drain will probably not work in your situation. Good luck! I’ve done concrete slab installs. They are not easy.
Great video! Did you account for any vertical height addition when the pan was set into the mortar so that you cut the vertical drain plumbing stub tube to the right height to mate with the shower pan drain? Or just assume the shower pan was like it was sitting on the subfloor at dry-fitting (i.e. no accommodation for additional height from mortar)?
The base should sit pretty flat on the plywood, give or take 1/8” of an inch. Out of dozens of pans I’ve installed over the years, this was actually me worst install, figures, right? I did go over the measurements you need to get the 2” pipe at the right height. Unfortunately, my pipe flexed a little because it was a weird stub out and I had the pan raised 3/8” of an inch. The perfect install is flat to 1/4” tops. As long as you have a lot of mortar, you can play with the base, it will set up solid. Good luck with the install. I’m going to do another video of an alcove above the plywood install that should go way smoother.
@@TodayIWorkOn Fantastic! Thanks for the quick feedback. Should be setting my pan on Saturday... got all the anxiety! But your videos have helped a ton over the stock video from Tile Redi!
@@zkosslow no doubt mine will be this Saturday these videos helped me too.
The 7" hole you made around the drain is huge and square which makes it worse. Good Luck.
A year later, she as solid as…. You know. If you are familiar with the tile redi system, flex is apparent as soon as the base is set if not installed properly. If you have flex, tile will be popping soon after install. Lastly, the base is reinforced around the drain because the engineers at the company are smart and know you can’t install a lot of mortar at that specific area. This comment is to assure most that watch the video that you can make a smallish square cut and be totally fine. 🤌
Thanks for the video! Did you fill the void in the curb of the shower pan? I have a redi-tile pan with 2 curbs that I would like to use with frame less glass. Just wondering if it ca be done. Keep up the videos; very educating!
I do not fill in the curbs since the tile does most of the work making it pretty solid. Never had an issue with any of the pans I’ve installed… I’m actually staring at another install right now that I’m grouting. Good luck with the project!
@@TodayIWorkOn Thanks!!!
Did you end up installing the glass panels on the redi tile pan? If so, how did it go?
@@OGCJ10 I’m having a company do the install for me. They measured about 3 or 4 weeks ago, but no ETA! Everything is slower now!
@@pauls8748 totally. I'm debating whether to buy this product or go the traditional route with a preslope shower pan and 2x4 curb.
I thought I read that you should never stand in the pan until the mortar i completely set (24 hours)? Were you standing in it after it was set??
I usually lightly walk on it to bed in the mortar. I also read the same thing. Dozens later, never had an issue.
They do it in a TileRedi instruction video, though instructions say, do not! th-cam.com/video/PUS_YvJBkOw/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TileRedi See 17:21 mark. I'm going to carefully stand in mine to set it.
hoping you see this comment. Im wondering about the fit between the drain PVC and the drain of the base. mine seems to rest directly on top when i dry fit. the PVC doesnt actually enter the tile ready drain pipe. is this expected/normal? im a lay person so sorry if a stupid question.
That’s not expected. The tile Redi pan might be hitting the subfloor and not dropping down to properly connect to the drain pipe. If you watch my videos, the pan is touching the subfloor. Something is not right.
We just had a contractor install a TileRedi Linear pan and there is flex all around the drain. Is this normal? He also installed from above. I think he may have stubbed the drain too high.
How far away from the drain? If it's 12" from the drain that's an issue. If it's in the drain itself, that's fine. I would have to see a video of the flex to know if it's no good.
I'm trying to figure out how to install the trench drain cover. Can I just shim it up and leave the stainless showing?
I don't feel like it will look good with small tile pieces on it
Or you live in texas and have a slab foundation you have to plumb it from above
Next time do a running trap
I've watched several videos on this system and it appears to be very difficult with no wiggle room for the slightest mistake. I wouldn't suggest it to the occasional DIY'er because it will either leak from a poor drain connection and you may have to pull it out to redo which will ruin the drain if it only partially stuck together incorrectly. Too many gotcha's waiting to getcha.
An above the plywood/substrate install is not the easiest install, BUT, if you have access to the bottom of the subfloor, it’s way easier. I recommended not attaching the waste line until the base is set. You are not wrong in that assumption about it being hard. It’s hard and that’s why I put this video up. To show it’s not easy.
Assuming the joists are decent, how thick should the subfloor be?
Standard 5/8”. I wouldn’t be comfortable with anything less.
@@TodayIWorkOn Thank you, I read 1 1/8 for a tiled shower but that's probably for a mud job. Already have 3/4 down. Appreciate the help. Nicely done.
NOTE: th-cam.com/video/P-I5ZGPTBj8/w-d-xo.html
The Tile Redi company video will provide more needed install information to follow. On the Tile Redi web site, the underpan mortar is to be pulled back away from all walls 1" before dropping the pan into place! To insure mortar stays inside the pan for contact. Also, Tile Redi states type N or type S mortar can be used.
Unmodified mortar thinset can also be used, which is confirmed by tileredi engineers which I prefer since it’s way easier to lay down. Great info from the directions.
What do you use to dry fit? And does it effect the glue? Thanks
Soap.
Like liquid dawn? Just wipe/clean real good after….won’t effect the gluing?
@@JimmitheV yup, the primer will take care of the soap.
Thank you
Are you using regular pvc cement and primer? I notice the bottom of the drain is black and usually black is abs and uses different glue
This is a PVC drain attachment, which is verified in the tile Redi instruction. I totally understand your thoughts about this. When I first installed the pan, I had the same question. It’s very rare to see ABS anymore. I actually have ABS in my own house and there’s a distinct difference between the PVC and ABS. 👍
@@TodayIWorkOn thank you for the quick reply! Yea I’m using this pan for the first time soon. Installing a 42x48 pan with center drain and a double sided curb with glass doors and 90degree return panel but by the looks of it this will pan will save me a lot of time then the traditional mud pans and I had to make and the shower curbs you had to make and waterproof
Definitely a little high
100%. It was my fault though. Watch for the before/after wrap up video coming soon.
Can’t you just throw down paper and chicken wire like if you were to stucco a wall
You ask a great question. The mortar is not there to adhere the base, It’s there to set the base. It’s a very large difference how you need to perceive what needs to be done. Does that makes sense?
just wet the subfloor before pan install
I appreciate you.
What does wetting the sub floor do?
@@samclausen1 stops the water from being sucked out of the concrete.
I am pretty sure this is all wrong. You use thin-set mortar troweled out with a notched trowel. like a setting a tile. Directly to the subfloor no plastic. don't step in it after it is set, till it cures. In other words read the installation instructions from TileRedi.
The great part about this system, you know the next morning if it’s good. If the base is rock solid, like this one was, it’s installed properly. After 3 dozen or so, you know what works and what doesn’t. Stepping in the pan for a quick second to check level is fine when the pan is very large. A 4x5 pan… impossible not to get into it for a second. I actually have a relationship with the head engineer at Tile Redi, they love my videos. 😬.
PS- Nobody listen to Mark, your pan will fail.
Again They do it in a TileRedi instruction video, though instructions say, do not! th-cam.com/video/PUS_YvJBkOw/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TileRedi See 17:21 mark. I'm going to carefully stand in mine to set it. You do not use a notched trowel for this.
Schluter is better 👍🏼