**UPDATE** If you can get your PCB to briefly function as I can, enable the "Recycle" mode and once it starts recycling, unplug the harness from the PCB. This will leave it "stuck" in that mode and greatly improves the efficiency.
Just wanted to say i took my 03 dashboard apart to fix the ac. Circuit board looked brand new. The only difference was the green wire was putting out 8 not 5 volts but i hooked it up and it worked!. I soldered the connection and buttoned her up, ice cold! Didnt bother with a switch as that van is in fla. Thank you so much!
Worked like a charm. I ran my switch from behind which allowed the green plug to go back in to the faulty unit. So basically I always have control over AC and when the controller unit eventually cools from the AC, then the rest of the control panel works. Lol. Thank you!
Can't believe a youtube video actually helped me in resolving this. My board actually still kind of work but sometimes it would fail on me and there's a time where I have to do a 1 hour drive and the climate control just won't light up and not working and its fucking hot that day. Had drive with windows down to keep the cabin cool. Hopefully with this fix, I don't have to worry the ac won't work anymore. If it stop working, will be easy to find the problem since right now I only have to check the switch connection. Thank you for this fix 👍🏻
I couldn't get defrost so I just unscrewed the motor and disconnected the plug and moved the linkage upward by hand. Defrost works! Passed state inspection.
I fixed one board I have by re-soldering the connections for R5 and ZD1LE4. Look on the circuit board for these labels. After that it worked fine. I didn't have to buy any new capacitors or use a jumper wire. Or rig up any switch like you did in the video.
Zd1le4 is the culprit. I was resoldering it and the first side I touched it came up with the solder gun having never touched the other side. I reflowed the caps and put the jumper wire in anyway. Works great.
As someone who has never done anything like this before - where can I get that button switch you have? I have a 2000 Honda Accord and this is exactly the issue I am experiencing
Any auto parts store will carry them and any wire or tools you may need. Do you have any experience with electrical? Some basic tools and wiring experience are highly recommended!
@@Eric2300jeep I've only done very basic soldering, but am pretty good when it comes to self-study. Going to do some more TH-cam research and educate myself on this a bit more. I appreciate your video and response!
I think I figure out how to fix this. I have a 2001 Honda Accord LX V6 3.0 and the AC control lights all went out, could not switch the vent modes, could not activate the AC, but the fan control knob worked fine and controlled the fan fine. the lights came on intermittently and I was able to use AC for a few minutes and it would go out during a drive. it seemed like a battery was dying so I ripped out the center dashboard and remove the circuit board for the AC controls. there are 5 capacitors on mine , I replaced them all and it seems to work fine now. one capacitor I replaced matched the capacitance and voltage but was half the size, I'm guessing it is a low ESR capacitor. I replaced it with the next voltage up which was closer to the size of the old cap, all the others I had no problem. the original caps are japanese nichicon, which is one of the top brands. I tried to do the jumper mod which didn't work at all. so if you lose lights and controls for the AC buttons try replacing all the caps, preferably with nichicon
@@rvaadventures2244 you need to look right on the old caps. there is written the uf (microfarad) and voltage. remember 1 of them is oversized, so go up a voltage to keep the size the same. an electronics expert could tell you why it's actually bigger, maybe low ESR. I bought the amazon kit from rexqualis 24 value, 696 pieces, but the biggest cap I had to buy separately. again look on the label on each cap and ask a electronics guy for help selecting caps, but it's not too hard, you do need patience but in the end it works! my controls are lit up and working!
@@rvaadventures2244 also capacitors have polarity, don't hook it up backwards, watch a video on how to after you look and buy your caps, nichicon can be bought on mouser or digikey
I'm not sure if there's a problem with the board or another AC issue but the AC will go off but instead of just the AC light going off the button for where the air blows goes off and also the recirculation button and that makes no sense if it's an AC issue because it should just be the AC button goes off not every single one of them. Also pressure on high and low side check normal.
What does this bypass and how did you figure this out? What component failed? I have the exact same problem with a 2010 Odyssey Climate control board and put in freezer and installed and it worked untlil it warmed up. I also bough used climate control modules, but they didn't work. There are 5 wires in the plug, 1 pair for power with igntion, 1 pair for light power and a green for comm (which I assume is universal for Honda). Both power pair work as expected 12V. I would expect at least display works. I will chedk comm for 5v. Any ideas? Honda diagnosed for $200 and said is was bad board. I talked to salvage yards and they said they get almost no calls for these. For $50 I have 3 others. Does the comm switch on display?
This is neat. Although not an issue in my Honda Accord 2001 Ex 3.0. An issue I do have is that my passenger side door courtesy light (the one at the bottom of the door that lights when the door is open) doesn’t work. nor does the car detect when the door is open at least I assume because the dome light doesn’t come on when I open the front passenger side door while it does with the others. You seem to be knowledgeable about wires and stuff like that any idea ? I’ll shoot 5
@@rvaadventures2244 smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B081PT78Y5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and I also used this for the big capacitor but I don't recomend it, the values tested low, maybe it's ok but if you're rich like I said mouser and digikey sell real nichicon caps, the originals were nichicon again, i do not recommend these but they seem to work: smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BJNYT1V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hmmm I would start by checking for power and ground on the LED circuit with a multimeter. There's most likely a common solder point on the board that's come loose or is corroded
im confused how to wire it up, do you have any schematic? my guess is from 5v to one leg of the switch, the other leg goes to the a/c clutch relay pin? and one more thing, is the switch the stays on all the time? or is it the type that just momentarily goes to on position then back off. thank you
Sorry, I don't have a schematic... this is something I figured out on my own. And yes, you take 5v from that harness and send it to one leg of an ON/OFF switch. Then take the output leg of that switch and then send it to the pin I mentioned. The AC relay needs to be constantly energized when you want the AC to be running. Hope this helps!
El asunto es que soy de República Dominicana, y el calor aqui es constante, pero seguí mirando vídeos, y descubrí como ponerlo que sólo este el aire de adentro. Y si funcionó tu método, pero voy a probar lo de soldar la línea directa del A/C, para que entienda automatico
**UPDATE** If you can get your PCB to briefly function as I can, enable the "Recycle" mode and once it starts recycling, unplug the harness from the PCB. This will leave it "stuck" in that mode and greatly improves the efficiency.
*Recirculate
Just wanted to say i took my 03 dashboard apart to fix the ac. Circuit board looked brand new. The only difference was the green wire was putting out 8 not 5 volts but i hooked it up and it worked!. I soldered the connection and buttoned her up, ice cold! Didnt bother with a switch as that van is in fla. Thank you so much!
@@davidszulewski7985 You're welcome!
Worked like a charm. I ran my switch from behind which allowed the green plug to go back in to the faulty unit. So basically I always have control over AC and when the controller unit eventually cools from the AC, then the rest of the control panel works. Lol. Thank you!
Glad to hear it!
worked like a charm. Thanks I have real bad COPD and not having A\C was killing me.
Honda Accord won’t die love I got a 2000 Honda Accord and I got the same problem with the a/c I will try that hack
Perfect, this is exactly what I was looking for. The solder fix didn't work on mine. Mines a 2000 with 405,000 miles on the original engine and trans.
Damn
That’s a lot of miles. Gives me hope for my 98 5 speed at 230k well the rust might get it first though
@@Jabid21 that was like 2 years ago. I sold the car to my buddy and it has over 450k now.
Works perfect! You don’t have to put a switch either which he does state in the video.
Can't believe a youtube video actually helped me in resolving this. My board actually still kind of work but sometimes it would fail on me and there's a time where I have to do a 1 hour drive and the climate control just won't light up and not working and its fucking hot that day. Had drive with windows down to keep the cabin cool. Hopefully with this fix, I don't have to worry the ac won't work anymore. If it stop working, will be easy to find the problem since right now I only have to check the switch connection.
Thank you for this fix 👍🏻
Nice! It worked on my old work car and I didn't want to spend 300 bucks on a new piece. Thanks a bunch!
Stephen Padgett Anytime!
I couldn't get defrost so I just unscrewed the motor and disconnected the plug and moved the linkage upward by hand. Defrost works! Passed state inspection.
Excellent!
I fixed one board I have by re-soldering the connections for R5 and ZD1LE4. Look on the circuit board for these labels. After that it worked fine. I didn't have to buy any new capacitors or use a jumper wire. Or rig up any switch like you did in the video.
Zd1le4 is the culprit. I was resoldering it and the first side I touched it came up with the solder gun having never touched the other side. I reflowed the caps and put the jumper wire in anyway. Works great.
My AC is working!! Thank you!!!
As someone who has never done anything like this before - where can I get that button switch you have? I have a 2000 Honda Accord and this is exactly the issue I am experiencing
Any auto parts store will carry them and any wire or tools you may need. Do you have any experience with electrical? Some basic tools and wiring experience are highly recommended!
@@Eric2300jeep I've only done very basic soldering, but am pretty good when it comes to self-study. Going to do some more TH-cam research and educate myself on this a bit more. I appreciate your video and response!
@@moving2fast2 If you've done some soldering, I'm sure you'll do fine then! Good luck!
I think I figure out how to fix this. I have a 2001 Honda Accord LX V6 3.0 and the AC control lights all went out, could not switch the vent modes, could not activate the AC, but the fan control knob worked fine and controlled the fan fine. the lights came on intermittently and I was able to use AC for a few minutes and it would go out during a drive. it seemed like a battery was dying so I ripped out the center dashboard and remove the circuit board for the AC controls. there are 5 capacitors on mine , I replaced them all and it seems to work fine now. one capacitor I replaced matched the capacitance and voltage but was half the size, I'm guessing it is a low ESR capacitor. I replaced it with the next voltage up which was closer to the size of the old cap, all the others I had no problem. the original caps are japanese nichicon, which is one of the top brands. I tried to do the jumper mod which didn't work at all. so if you lose lights and controls for the AC buttons try replacing all the caps, preferably with nichicon
Where do you purchase these caps and what kind/size? Thanks
@@rvaadventures2244 you need to look right on the old caps. there is written the uf (microfarad) and voltage. remember 1 of them is oversized, so go up a voltage to keep the size the same. an electronics expert could tell you why it's actually bigger, maybe low ESR. I bought the amazon kit from rexqualis 24 value, 696 pieces, but the biggest cap I had to buy separately. again look on the label on each cap and ask a electronics guy for help selecting caps, but it's not too hard, you do need patience but in the end it works! my controls are lit up and working!
@@rvaadventures2244 also capacitors have polarity, don't hook it up backwards, watch a video on how to after you look and buy your caps, nichicon can be bought on mouser or digikey
@@eksine thanks I appreciate it
@@eksine good to know about the polarity thanks
I'm not sure if there's a problem with the board or another AC issue but the AC will go off but instead of just the AC light going off the button for where the air blows goes off and also the recirculation button and that makes no sense if it's an AC issue because it should just be the AC button goes off not every single one of them. Also pressure on high and low side check normal.
Thank you so very much for this information I didn't have a switch so I just jumped the two and it will get me by until I can get the part.
It works on me but instead of cool it blows hot.. how i can adjust the temperature to cooler?
I know this video is over 5 years old, but does the compressor work like normal and cut out every now and them or does it run all the time?
What does this bypass and how did you figure this out? What component failed? I have the exact same problem with a 2010 Odyssey Climate control board and put in freezer and installed and it worked untlil it warmed up. I also bough used climate control modules, but they didn't work. There are 5 wires in the plug, 1 pair for power with igntion, 1 pair for light power and a green for comm (which I assume is universal for Honda). Both power pair work as expected 12V. I would expect at least display works. I will chedk comm for 5v. Any ideas? Honda diagnosed for $200 and said is was bad board. I talked to salvage yards and they said they get almost no calls for these. For $50 I have 3 others. Does the comm switch on display?
Thank you, video was very very helpful to me and saved me lots of money!!!!😇🤩👍🏽🚙🚙🚙
This video won't play complete. Any link for the full video?
Where did you get that manual switch?
That exact one, I got from Radio Shack before they went out of business. But, you could use any switch really
This is neat. Although not an issue in my Honda Accord 2001 Ex 3.0. An issue I do have is that my passenger side door courtesy light (the one at the bottom of the door that lights when the door is open) doesn’t work. nor does the car detect when the door is open at least I assume because the dome light doesn’t come on when I open the front passenger side door while it does with the others. You seem to be knowledgeable about wires and stuff like that any idea ? I’ll shoot 5
I drive that same care manual and everything mine is at the mechanic though I’ll pick it up tomorrow
try replacing all the capacitors on that circuit board, mine looks exactly like yours, mine seems to be fixed
Do you have a link where you purchased the capacitors and what kind/voltage/etc they are? Thanks
@@rvaadventures2244 smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B081PT78Y5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and I also used this for the big capacitor but I don't recomend it, the values tested low, maybe it's ok but if you're rich like I said mouser and digikey sell real nichicon caps, the originals were nichicon
again, i do not recommend these but they seem to work:
smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BJNYT1V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@eksine thanks for providing this info for me greatly appreciated!
I’m not getting power to certain outlets on my driver side fusebox. Any idea why? Anybody?
What if the blower switch isn’t working either?
@@RobertYonng Check fuses/relay under hood
My board works fine but the button leds stopped working. How do I fix them ?
Hmmm I would start by checking for power and ground on the LED circuit with a multimeter. There's most likely a common solder point on the board that's come loose or is corroded
@@Eric2300jeep A couple of the led's work, that is what's weird.
im confused how to wire it up, do you have any schematic? my guess is from 5v to one leg of the switch, the other leg goes to the a/c clutch relay pin? and one more thing, is the switch the stays on all the time? or is it the type that just momentarily goes to on position then back off. thank you
Sorry, I don't have a schematic... this is something I figured out on my own. And yes, you take 5v from that harness and send it to one leg of an ON/OFF switch. Then take the output leg of that switch and then send it to the pin I mentioned. The AC relay needs to be constantly energized when you want the AC to be running. Hope this helps!
@@Eric2300jeep thank you very much, i know what to do know. You have been a great help.
you have a video to disable the alarm
Y entonces, para que no entre aire de afuera?
El modo de reciclaje enfría el aire de manera más eficiente
El asunto es que soy de República Dominicana, y el calor aqui es constante, pero seguí mirando vídeos, y descubrí como ponerlo que sólo este el aire de adentro. Y si funcionó tu método, pero voy a probar lo de soldar la línea directa del A/C, para que entienda automatico
couldn’t you just over lay the wire & have it worth the same?
Dude. Ur a god. Thank you so much
KickinNutz Gaming Glad it helped you out 👊
Obviously?
J Foster To which "obviously" are you referring? I'm happy to help if I can 😀
I think I’m the only one trying to figure out what you done haha
I think I’m the only one trying to figure out what you done haha