It's Electrical Discharge Machining. This means for every spark the wire makes in contact with the material it's removing material. It's crazy slow BUT insanely accurate!!!
Because the guy said it's a pain in the ass to setup. Compared to doing everything manually by hand, "the pain in the ass to setup" is not a pain at all but a life and time saver.
@@douro20 All the machines I operate have auto threading. Two 10yr old Charmilles ones are great, but the Fanuc we have from 2000 is a bit hit and miss at times. Probably my fault with the maintenance, or lack thereof.
@@letsgoBrandon204 I believe it was Fanuc who developed the technology in the first place, and still have the fastest threading machines in the industry.
Woah, had to center it, then cut the wire again to move to the outter radius.. That must be fun to do all the time. Amazing results, so worth the tedious nature.
I got the lexus for this machine, type : Seibu M 50. With fanuc M8 controller.. all was automatic even for feed and cut the wire.. Honestly, this is 1st time I had to work on Manufacturing Corporation, and see how person could able to type, read, and make the manual G-Code is really astonishing.. Hopes I can learn fast to read the G-Code while make it at post after draw it on mastercam..
@@DavidArnold2God-Glory What would the cycle time be for such a part or gear in the video ? I'm interested in Wire EDM (for our applications) but I am deadly afraid that the cycle times would be just too long ?
Wonderfull! I guess the Brother HS 300 doesn't do plunging of the wire seeing how you have to rethread manually. The plunging cutters seem more practical I guess where they just feed the wire out again by themselves and catch it once it passes though. I guess it's a cost thing?
Very nicely done, I've never seen it done that way but it's a nifty fix. I would have wired it complete out of a block so you could go all the way around but if you only had a piece of round bar stock to work with this does it very well. Plus I've never seen anyone cut their wire like that, I use a lighter with the wire pulled tight, it doesn't leave a burr that way. What make and model is it?
@@joanzzer Magnets usually. Most times I don't bother as it isn't that much of an issue unless it's something heavy. Occasionally you will get problems where the parts drops and gets caught by the wire before it can reverse alarm but not often. If I need to I use a magnet.
@@joanzzer It's a small, thin, round magnet, very powerful for its size. Only around 15mm in diameter and can hold something pretty heavy. You can buy them I've noticed but I can't give you specifics. If you have an old hard drive you could take that apart and use the ones in there, they aren't round but they are thin. Sometimes I used to wait until the job was partially cut, stop the machine, then apply the magnet where the wire wasn't going to cut.
@@joanzzer Yes, very small and thin, but also powerful. Around 15mm in diameter and maybe 10 thick. It came with the machine to be honest, I haven't bought one myself. You put it on the part as the wire has partially completed its path, where it won't collide with the wire as it finishes. You might be able to buy one, or take a hard drive apart and use the one in there. They are larger but thin, might do the trick.
You must have been born after 1990... They were the only screens in the early computers. They all looked like that. It is before my time too, by the time I got my first computer it was super vga. I played on some older machines though that were the 4 color cga. Screens like this were probably older than around 1985. Though they might have been popular longer than in general use because they didn't need to be multi-color.
Pretty cool vid but a couple things 1 the time to set the machine each time 2 waste wire having to thread wire in to center then cut the wire and thread it again to do the cut Is it possible to use a small rod of sorts like a 5mm tig electrode and put it in for centering and initial setup as long as the ends were fine enough points and centered and just adjust the program to take into consideration of the larger diameter of the rod that way you can do 3 things at once 1 reduce scrap and waste wire 2 reduce setup times 3 confirm the arms are lined up as the rod won’t bend and if top or bottom of the rod are not touching the Material when centering you know a arm is out of alignment I’m assuming the idea of threading the wire through the center is to run a charge through the wire and price and when they connect and complete the circuit it knows that’s an edge and makes it’s center point based on where forward back left and right meet material edges so a larger rod shouldn’t affect it as long as the rod is center The idea comes from things like large micrometers where in order to make sure they are calibrated correctly you have to have a precise spacer to make sure the measurements are correct
What is the time saved compared to making the exact same gear and keyway using traditional techniques of broaching etc with the same accuracy, finish and tolerances?
@@flo_5235 That's a nice jig then :) Too bad it is rare to get any production runs, typically only see one-offs and always hoping the jig can be used for something else later.
@@TheWireEDM yes, but it only corrects the y-axis. what if the gear have been turned (in the margin of slope in the dowel pins) clock wise or ccw, then it makes no sense to re tounch. Best would be to have a tiger dowelpin.
Assuming that the locating holes are perfectly spotted, and the dowel pins are perfect, and the mounting plate is perfect. Anytime you remove a part and change is orientation you want to be 100% certain of registration. Off by .005 in registration would ruin the gear. Safer to just recenter after flipping the part.
Keep it up..I always want to know how products are actually manufactured in the industries. There are very less videos on automation n digital Manufacturing process.
I was hoping that in the end he would place the cut-offs on the finished gear, like a jigsaw puzzle, to showcase the astonishing level of detailed cutting, wire edm can achieve... but good video anyway
i've made a gear on a Brother HS 100 , but i didn't cut a blank that i had to rotate .. i just made a bigger blank, and cut out the entire wheel in one go..
I´ve cut another gear from flat stock. But if your stock isn´t big enough its a way to cut the gear. By the way, would be great to the see some vidoes of the HS 100!
How did you find so old machine? And what about programming? Now you can find EDM machines Agie , Fanuc, Solid Works + D-CAM for programming. These are the components of the complex. They are very convenient to work with.
Ebay is your friend. Simple programs I code on the machine, for more complex stuff I use Fusion with a slightly modificated Fanuc PP. If at some point I will buy another wire EDM I´m pretty sure it will be a late 1990s or early 2000s machine, so not that much newer.
Can I ask: Is the gear now ready to use or does it need final polishing to match other gear wheels? Also, is the metal hard or does it still require hardening?
The gear wheel is used as it comes from the EDM machine and also there is no hardening done. It´s only a change gear (? maybe wrong translation) for a hobby lathe and is only used if some strange pitches are needed.
Let me understand. You thread the wire up through the center of the gear blank and then proceed to cut the OUTSIDE TEETH. What happened to the initial setup that I assumed would be cutting the gears KEY WAY?
bánh răng của bạn có đường kính là bao nhiêu? mất bao lâu để cắt xong bánh răng đó? How much is your gear diameter? How long will it take to finish cutting that gear?
The largest wire guide I can get over here is for 0,3 mm wire, the smallest for 0,2 mm wire. I have guides for 0,2 and 0,25 mm wire but I only use 0,25 mm wire.
I am not a machinist but I don't understand the advantages of this machine and the process overall compared to regular milling that is done seemingly much much much faster than this. Wouldn't it be much faster and possibly cheaper to make such gear on normal milling machine?
Well you can machine almost sharp-edged inside corners as well as fine/tiny profiles which are difficult to machine in another way. Like small inside splines or something like that. The gear wheel has 71 teeth, 71 is a prime number and so its not that easy to divide on a manual milling machine.
Also, with the wire edm you can cut, with ultra high precision, prehardened steel or even Carbide. This way you don't have to be concerned with warpage during a hardening process.
Silly question maybe, but how do you measure the amount of spark used for the different size of meterial being burned. Is this all controlled from the cnc? I'm new to this obviously lol
The sparks come from a generator whichs sends power pulses to the wire. The sparks ´jump´ between the wire and the workpiece where both are nearest so that on this spot some material is removed. (Not the best explanation.)
The sparks are the removal of the material. Billions of sparks going on very, very, very minute amount of metal is being removed. This is why it takes so long. But it's accurate to the micron.
Dies are made with that other type too I used to run- often called ram or diesinker EDM. That's the kind that does 3D shaped electrodes for cavities but I always thought wire was cooler
I’m not a machinist I just enjoy watching these videos to see how things are done, other than measuring and obtaining center of the gear with that wire what other purpose does that wire serve?
Keyway cut - What was the difference between the rough cut and finishing cut? I am new to the whole subject of EDM, but as far as I can see its contactless so was quite surprised to see a two cut process
Used EDM machines are surprisingly affordable compared to Mills but that might have to do with the fact that they require more specialized knowledge to actually get working properly and the fact that the electronics are usually shot. They're a bigger gamble than a mechanical mill to buy sight unseen. There is also BaxEDM channel which might interest you where he walks through actually building one from scratch😉 his spark generator is 2K though, it might be cheaper to find a used EDM that still works if you know what to look for
@@take1one I would absolutely buy one of these on eBay! In a heart beat! I use to work for a defense contractor and was passing through the machine shop one day. I came upon the EDM machines and was just so fascinated by this and the operator asked me if I wanted a remembrance piece of titanium. I absolutely said yes and I still have that piece to this day. That was back in 08. So, yes, I'm willing to purchase something off you if you wanted to create an eBay auction or just communicate via email and I'll do PayPal or whatever. 👍
Diameter of the wire is 0,25 mm. EDM wire is available in diameters from 0,03 up to 0,33 mm but not all work with my machine. Wire feed is about 4 m/min.
Great video, thats how i used to run our old sodick a600w, the wire threader and cutter was busted, lot of hard work and labour. what type of machine is this?
Because you can't be too precise. My guess would be: the pins only orient(? - not sure it's the appropriate english word for it) the piece, but they might not be perfectly positioned to the center hole. Better safe than sorry.
Hey Flo, check out this guys TH-cam channel called “zero backlash.” He had designed a cyclodial gear box which he is 3d printing. Good design but the 3d prints don’t look to be holding up. Would be cool to see if someone could cutting him some gears out of spring steel.
Sorry my question is this… so you center your work piece for me the inside diameter of the whole in the middle. Then I would assume your raw stock dimensions are programmed into your computer. Knowing the center of the inside hole allows the machine to know exactly where outside diameter or stock is. You cut wire after threading to center and rethread once centered on outside of diameter of stock and start cutting.
5 Minutes/tooth, so about 6 hours of cutting for the complete gear wheel plus some additional time for positioning an threading the wire. So maybe 6,5 - 7 hours?
The Brother control doesn't use those ´classical´ edm parameter. At 8:20 in the video you can see the command mode, the first 7 settings are changed for different materials and material thicknesses.
Video won a subscription from me! New to the machining world (work), so I am curious to see what others are capable of. May I suggest: (a.) 16X the entire video? (b.) Instead of captions, let us hear your voice? Do not mean to intrude at all, just think it would send it right over the edge ;) obviously the talent and audience is there. Also, I cant steal the idea. I love watching @jimmydiresta videos and think his (older) videos would suit your type of work. Let me know what you think. I humbly suggest this :)
Thank you! Well filming the edm process for time lapse takes a lot of time so it's much easier to do captions. And also it's get pretty boring after watch it a few seconds. I have a few videos where I talk a little bit, but I think I like the videos with the captions more. Talking in english isn't that easy for me ;) Not sure how the next video will be.
@@flo_5235 yes! so why cut the wire and thread the hole with the wire and recenter the bore then cut the wire again then rethread the wire on the outside ..... if you already had locating pins
Grossartig. Wenn ich das sehe, fang ich an zu sabbern :-). Wenn ich nur wuesste, was schruppen und schlichten bei ner EDM unterscheidet. Koennte man nicht direkt mit Schlichtwerten durchfahren? (Ich kenn nix vom drahten, wie man merkt)
Beim schruppen schaut man auf den höchsten Abtrag damit es möglichst schnell geht, Oberflächengüte spielt dabei keine Rolle. Ist bei meiner Maschine aber nicht so schlecht, die Verzahnung ist mit einem Schnitt gemacht. Beim schlichten wird dann die Oberfläche vom Schruppschnitt noch ´geglättet´, dabei nimmt man nur noch einige Hundertstel Material ab. Die Schlichtparameter würden im Vollschnitt noch langsamer laufen als es eh schon ist ;-)
Danke Florian. Ja, das trieb mich eben um, ob man nicht besser direkt im Vollschnitt mit Schlichtgeschwindigkeit faehrt, weil die Gesamtlaufzeit (und die Arbeit, die Du damit hast) am Ende so vielleicht geringer ist, als wenn Du alles zweimal abfaehrst.
@@udowillkomm1173 Die Agie Vision V2 an der ich arbeite kann im Schlichtgang kein Material voll schneiden, ständig Drahtrisse (Die Parameter werden zu fein sein um viel Materialabtrag zu erzielen), Beim Fräsen oder Drehen ballert man ja auch nicht mit nem Werkzeug ins Volle wenn man Schlichten will... Die Technologien die Agie einem zur Verfügung stellt sehen das auch nicht vor. Schruppen ist beim Drahterodieren auch sehr relativ zu betrachten, wenn ich mich jetzt nicht täusche schafft die Agie mit einem Schnitt (also nur "Schruppen") eine Oberflächengüte von Ra 1,8 bis 3,2 (je nach Material und Werkstückhöhe), Drahten ist auch nichts was mal eben schnell geht, das dauert seine Zeit Das Maschinchen in dem Video ist auch echt sau alt, ich persönlich würde das komplett aus einer Platte schneiden, schön über Nacht laufen lassen, natürlich hab ich auch den Luxus eines 3D-Modells über das ich ein Programm erstellen kann ;)
First... use a lighter to cut your wire..makes threading the machine that much easier.. also, keep an eye on your water conductivity. .I think It is rather high, as rust build up quickly on your part.. Nice machine.. brother HS-300 right? I have an HS-100
It's a burr free cutter, this works quite well but I know a lighter is common. Water conductivity should be ok based on what the machine says. It stays about 5 and some times some water goes through the resin. And yes it's a HS-300, maybe you can make a video of your HS-100, would appreciate.
@@flo_5235 Water Conductivity at 5?.. mine is as well at the moment.. but for me that is time to change the Resin.. i have it set at 3.. no rust at all.. as soon as it hits 4 or higher.. rust becomes an issue.. I'm planning on making a video of my HS-100 soon.. stay tuned to my channel..
For such a cool process, it’s pretty darn boring to watch
It's Electrical Discharge Machining. This means for every spark the wire makes in contact with the material it's removing material. It's crazy slow BUT insanely accurate!!!
Looks like a pain in the ass to set up.
@@skmetal7 yeah, but it way easier than a file or grinder.
@@Freeknickers24 How is that even relevant?
Because the guy said it's a pain in the ass to setup. Compared to doing everything manually by hand, "the pain in the ass to setup" is not a pain at all but a life and time saver.
This makes me appreciate the automatic threading and cutting of the machines I operate a whole lot more.
Didn't some of the older Fanuc wire machines have semi-automatic threading?
@@douro20 All the machines I operate have auto threading. Two 10yr old Charmilles ones are great, but the Fanuc we have from 2000 is a bit hit and miss at times. Probably my fault with the maintenance, or lack thereof.
@@letsgoBrandon204 I believe it was Fanuc who developed the technology in the first place, and still have the fastest threading machines in the industry.
We still have a couple HS-300's in our shop. still very precise and both .006 & .010 wire
Great job. I love the old green display. Shows how long good machines are useful for.
Alex Barnett lol the hearts
What was the cost compared to lathe and milling?
Cut the wird with a pocket lighter. Stretch it a little bit and then start the Pocketlighter. It is much easyer to put the wire in the down nozzel.
Woah, had to center it, then cut the wire again to move to the outter radius.. That must be fun to do all the time. Amazing results, so worth the tedious nature.
That's what I was watching. Do you think it's using electrical continuity between the part and the wire, or the mechanical displacement of the wire?
@@russellmitchell9438 continuity of course. This is an STUPID accurate machine!!
I got the lexus for this machine, type : Seibu M 50. With fanuc M8 controller.. all was automatic even for feed and cut the wire..
Honestly, this is 1st time I had to work on Manufacturing Corporation, and see how person could able to type, read, and make the manual G-Code is really astonishing..
Hopes I can learn fast to read the G-Code while make it at post after draw it on mastercam..
Great video, i only thought these machines drilled holes in things, im blown away. I try to learn 1 new thing a day and this it lol. Thanks :)
This man has a high science skill in fallout based on how he’s operating this terminal
This is the first I’ve heard of this machine and would love to see more videos of it
@Fernandes correct. I have never heard of or seen this machine before.
Me too
I ran them for years. Mitsubishi, Sodeck, many others.
@@DavidArnold2God-Glory What would the cycle time be for such a part or gear in the video ? I'm interested in Wire EDM (for our applications) but I am deadly afraid that the cycle times would be just too long ?
i have three edm machines (wire, sink and drill edm) I was thinking about making videos of it.
Wonderfull!
I guess the Brother HS 300 doesn't do plunging of the wire seeing how you have to rethread manually.
The plunging cutters seem more practical I guess where they just feed the wire out again by themselves and catch it once it passes though.
I guess it's a cost thing?
Wow Ive never seen an EDM in action before thank you
71 teeth..
That's the answer for the question we might have in our head..
Love the HARTS.......;-)
It's little things like that that brighter ones day....
Good job. You can make more videos like this in Wire Cut EDM.
Wire electroerosion with water (WEDM). It is a process of cutting metal, extremely slow, but highly precise.
I'm not sure what the hell just happened but it was pretty cool!
I run 4 Mitsubishi wire EDMs all day long
slick gear uve cut there mr flo :p
Very nicely done, I've never seen it done that way but it's a nifty fix. I would have wired it complete out of a block so you could go all the way around but if you only had a piece of round bar stock to work with this does it very well. Plus I've never seen anyone cut their wire like that, I use a lighter with the wire pulled tight, it doesn't leave a burr that way. What make and model is it?
How do you hold the finish piece from falling down once the circle cut is near finished ?
@@joanzzer Magnets usually. Most times I don't bother as it isn't that much of an issue unless it's something heavy. Occasionally you will get problems where the parts drops and gets caught by the wire before it can reverse alarm but not often. If I need to I use a magnet.
@@chrisblight6069 I have a 6" dia x 1" gear I want to try out. Do you use a specific magnet ?
@@joanzzer It's a small, thin, round magnet, very powerful for its size. Only around 15mm in diameter and can hold something pretty heavy. You can buy them I've noticed but I can't give you specifics. If you have an old hard drive you could take that apart and use the ones in there, they aren't round but they are thin. Sometimes I used to wait until the job was partially cut, stop the machine, then apply the magnet where the wire wasn't going to cut.
@@joanzzer Yes, very small and thin, but also powerful. Around 15mm in diameter and maybe 10 thick. It came with the machine to be honest, I haven't bought one myself. You put it on the part as the wire has partially completed its path, where it won't collide with the wire as it finishes. You might be able to buy one, or take a hard drive apart and use the one in there. They are larger but thin, might do the trick.
That screen when programming looks straight out of Fallout
You must have been born after 1990... They were the only screens in the early computers. They all looked like that. It is before my time too, by the time I got my first computer it was super vga. I played on some older machines though that were the 4 color cga. Screens like this were probably older than around 1985. Though they might have been popular longer than in general use because they didn't need to be multi-color.
@@court2379 close but before 1990
8:30 it was like I'm playing fallout
Done one for my big Kirloskar lathe, worked perfectly
Great now I can see what EDM machines are capable of. See lots for sale where I am based.
Are you in the US? We have virtually no EDM for sale in Canada. Would love to know where they are for sale. Thanks
Pretty cool vid but a couple things
1 the time to set the machine each time
2 waste wire having to thread wire in to center then cut the wire and thread it again to do the cut
Is it possible to use a small rod of sorts like a 5mm tig electrode and put it in for centering and initial setup as long as the ends were fine enough points and centered and just adjust the program to take into consideration of the larger diameter of the rod that way you can do 3 things at once
1 reduce scrap and waste wire
2 reduce setup times
3 confirm the arms are lined up as the rod won’t bend and if top or bottom of the rod are not touching the Material when centering you know a arm is out of alignment
I’m assuming the idea of threading the wire through the center is to run a charge through the wire and price and when they connect and complete the circuit it knows that’s an edge and makes it’s center point based on where forward back left and right meet material edges so a larger rod shouldn’t affect it as long as the rod is center
The idea comes from things like large micrometers where in order to make sure they are calibrated correctly you have to have a precise spacer to make sure the measurements are correct
Is so retro with this anlog green display what EDM machine are?
Curious why you didn’t cut the key way while the wire was in the bore at the beginning?
The inside of the hole is used to centre the wire, so it has to be cut last.
@@shedtime_au yep!
So how quickly can EDM manufacture such a piece? I know it's bout detail, but how slower/quicker it is in comparison with mill/drill/tap cncs?
What is the time saved compared to making the exact same gear and keyway using traditional techniques of broaching etc with the same accuracy, finish and tolerances?
The gear has 71 teeth. 71 is a prime number so the gear cant be milled with a standard dividing head.
What was the reason for recentering on the bore after turning the half-cut blank? Were the dowels so loose?
Just to check, got only a few micron difference.
@@flo_5235 That's a nice jig then :) Too bad it is rare to get any production runs, typically only see one-offs and always hoping the jig can be used for something else later.
That's interesting, I wonder what is more accurate, dowel pins or re-touching? How repeatable are the touches if you do the touch one after another?
@@FilterYT Retouching is more accurate, as the dowels have to be sliding fit to be able to remove the workpiece, thus they are 'loose'.
@@TheWireEDM yes, but it only corrects the y-axis. what if the gear have been turned (in the margin of slope in the dowel pins) clock wise or ccw, then it makes no sense to re tounch. Best would be to have a tiger dowelpin.
Why you cut the wire after cutting 32.. the zeros are on same spot
Assuming that the locating holes are perfectly spotted, and the dowel pins are perfect, and the mounting plate is perfect. Anytime you remove a part and change is orientation you want to be 100% certain of registration. Off by .005 in registration would ruin the gear. Safer to just recenter after flipping the part.
No finish passes?
Keep it up..I always want to know how products are actually manufactured in the industries. There are very less videos on automation n digital Manufacturing process.
What would you say the surface roughness of this gear must have come out to be?
Where is my Electronic Dance Music?
I was hoping that in the end he would place the cut-offs on the finished gear, like a jigsaw puzzle, to showcase the astonishing level of detailed cutting, wire edm can achieve... but good video anyway
I have another video where i cut a gear wheel out of flat material, there you can find the puzzle ;)
How long did just the EDM process take from start to finish? For the entire job?
5 Minutes/tooth, so about 6 hours for the complete gear wheel
@@flo_5235 would gear cutter be quicker and accurate enough?
What's the main benefit from of EDM in this situation?
Cheers.
@@dnomyarnostaw You can cut tungsten carbide gears. "5 Minutes/tooth"(С)
@@SergeiPetrov that's what Flo said, but a gear cutter on a lathe can do a tooth in under a minute.
@@dnomyarnostaw with which cutter are you going to cut tungsten carbide?
Another advantage of this method is, it doesn't matter if the material is hardened or not, it cuts the same.
I would say; the harder and "pure" material the better (the machining).
How many feet of wire dose a typical job use up?
Edm's do fine work but my God they're slower than molasses!!!
They are stupid accurate though. IFFFF you want accuracy... That takes time.
you are s master at writing g codes manually
Years and years of work.
What type of fluid is the wire Submerged in?
Dielectric fluid
deionized water
Great video! How much wire does a part like this use up?
i've made a gear on a Brother HS 100 , but i didn't cut a blank that i had to rotate .. i just made a bigger blank, and cut out the entire wheel in one go..
I´ve cut another gear from flat stock. But if your stock isn´t big enough its a way to cut the gear.
By the way, would be great to the see some vidoes of the HS 100!
How did you find so old machine? And what about programming? Now you can find EDM machines Agie , Fanuc, Solid Works + D-CAM for programming. These are the components of the complex. They are very convenient to work with.
Ebay is your friend. Simple programs I code on the machine, for more complex stuff I use Fusion with a slightly modificated Fanuc PP. If at some point I will buy another wire EDM I´m pretty sure it will be a late 1990s or early 2000s machine, so not that much newer.
Can I ask: Is the gear now ready to use or does it need final polishing to match other gear wheels? Also, is the metal hard or does it still require hardening?
The gear wheel is used as it comes from the EDM machine and also there is no hardening done. It´s only a change gear (? maybe wrong translation) for a hobby lathe and is only used if some strange pitches are needed.
@@flo_5235 "Change gear" is exactly the right description.
its the spark that erodes the material not the wire.
@@Tumbler054 correct. Electrical Discharge Machining. Insanely accurate!
the perfect wirw for that processing is BORACUT by Tfe
Let me understand. You thread the wire up through the center of the gear blank and then proceed to cut the OUTSIDE TEETH. What happened to the initial setup that I assumed would be cutting the gears KEY WAY?
Zero for the code to cut the outside teeth is in the center of the bore.
He has to center it first before he cuts the teeth.
bánh răng của bạn có đường kính là bao nhiêu? mất bao lâu để cắt xong bánh răng đó?
How much is your gear diameter? How long will it take to finish cutting that gear?
Diameter is 91,25 mm. Just roughing, no finishig cuts.
How much current and voltage for cut through the wire?
Just found one of these with the exact same 'ring' on the CRT, not sure what causes that :) Also what is the largest wire you can run on the HS300 ?
The largest wire guide I can get over here is for 0,3 mm wire, the smallest for 0,2 mm wire. I have guides for 0,2 and 0,25 mm wire but I only use 0,25 mm wire.
@@flo_5235 I think I will use .010/.25mm wire here. Machine shows up tomorrow :)
I am not a machinist but I don't understand the advantages of this machine and the process overall compared to regular milling that is done seemingly much much much faster than this. Wouldn't it be much faster and possibly cheaper to make such gear on normal milling machine?
Well you can machine almost sharp-edged inside corners as well as fine/tiny profiles which are difficult to machine in another way. Like small inside splines or something like that.
The gear wheel has 71 teeth, 71 is a prime number and so its not that easy to divide on a manual milling machine.
Also, with the wire edm you can cut, with ultra high precision, prehardened steel or even Carbide. This way you don't have to be concerned with warpage during a hardening process.
Silly question maybe, but how do you measure the amount of spark used for the different size of meterial being burned. Is this all controlled from the cnc? I'm new to this obviously lol
I have a folder of datasheets with settings for different materials and cutting heights.
Harika çalışma 👍Parçayı zaten pimlemişsin ikinciye merkezlemene gerek yoktu 👍
Doesn't have a venturi water jet to suck the wire down like a Mits?
No
Hmm how flat are they? You dial them in each time or check the flatness of each rotation? Or does it not matter to print?
incredible, i love wire edm!
What is the real advantage using this method ? compare to classical milling machine ?
The gear wheel has 71 teeth. 71 is a prime number, so you can't mill it that easy on a manual milling machine.
@@flo_5235 yeah, you'd need an astronomical dividing head to do it.
Una pregunta cómo le puedo hacer para un corte con 2° grados de inclinación
What are all the sparks from? How do these things work? I would have thought the wire is abrasive and moves past the material no?
The sparks come from a generator whichs sends power pulses to the wire. The sparks ´jump´ between the wire and the workpiece where both are nearest so that on this spot some material is removed. (Not the best explanation.)
The sparks are the removal of the material. Billions of sparks going on very, very, very minute amount of metal is being removed. This is why it takes so long. But it's accurate to the micron.
i wanna ask is the same like
ELECTRICAL EROSION TREATMENT ? like Dies and electrodes but on this the wire is doing the job ?
Yes, it is the same principle
Dies are made with that other type too I used to run- often called ram or diesinker EDM. That's the kind that does 3D shaped electrodes for cavities but I always thought wire was cooler
How long did it take to make it
I’m not a machinist I just enjoy watching these videos to see how things are done, other than measuring and obtaining center of the gear with that wire what other purpose does that wire serve?
I was waiting for the Electronic Dance Music.
😎
Keyway cut - What was the difference between the rough cut and finishing cut?
I am new to the whole subject of EDM, but as far as I can see its contactless so was quite surprised to see a two cut process
Ok ... Now I know about big sparks and small sparks :)
Was a good video. Can you say me what is the gear's material? Is for class. Thanks you
In the ISO world its called 16MnCr5 (1.7131) but material was provided by the ´customer´.
@@flo_5235 thanks you man
Can you get hobby level edm machines? How much?
This is a hobby level edm machine ;) Search for Brother HS300.
Used EDM machines are surprisingly affordable compared to Mills but that might have to do with the fact that they require more specialized knowledge to actually get working properly and the fact that the electronics are usually shot. They're a bigger gamble than a mechanical mill to buy sight unseen. There is also BaxEDM channel which might interest you where he walks through actually building one from scratch😉 his spark generator is 2K though, it might be cheaper to find a used EDM that still works if you know what to look for
Owesome! Which is the material of the wire?
It's brass wire
Do you keep the off-cuts material from those gears? I have some cool ideas for them
What kind of plans? I toss out cut offs of D2 similar to this all the time. However mine are a bit thicker and start from a 9" round.
@@take1one I would absolutely buy one of these on eBay! In a heart beat! I use to work for a defense contractor and was passing through the machine shop one day. I came upon the EDM machines and was just so fascinated by this and the operator asked me if I wanted a remembrance piece of titanium. I absolutely said yes and I still have that piece to this day. That was back in 08. So, yes, I'm willing to purchase something off you if you wanted to create an eBay auction or just communicate via email and I'll do PayPal or whatever. 👍
This might be stupid questions, but what is the diameter of the wire? How fast is the wire feed through machine?
Diameter of the wire is 0,25 mm. EDM wire is available in diameters from 0,03 up to 0,33 mm but not all work with my machine. Wire feed is about 4 m/min.
@@flo_5235 Thanks!
what software do you use to run this?
just auto cad? can you do 3d machining too?
For simple conturs I can write the code on the machine, for complex stuff I use Fusion. 3D machinig is not possible with this machine.
@Flo _ Nice video ! What was the cycle time on the gear ? Thanks !
5 Minutes/tooth, so about 6 hours for the complete gear wheel
@@flo_5235 Wow... Thanks for that ! Really appreciate that.
To what accuracy is the profile machined ?
I dont know, good enough for the purpose.
Why all teeth are not cut in single setting in this video ?
Had only round stock for the gear wheel
how much time did it take. the WHOLE machining of that gear?
5 Minutes/tooth, so about 6 hours for the complete gear wheel
Thanks! 👍💪✌
Great video, thats how i used to run our old sodick a600w, the wire threader and cutter was busted, lot of hard work and labour. what type of machine is this?
It seems like a Mitsubishi wedm.
Brother HS 300
How long it took to make one gear ? Can u do helical gear as well ?
About 6 hours for this gear. No helical gear possible with my machine.
Flipping the blank over and re-centering?...Why?
Because you can't be too precise. My guess would be: the pins only orient(? - not sure it's the appropriate english word for it) the piece, but they might not be perfectly positioned to the center hole. Better safe than sorry.
Because mounting rig does not allow closed toolpath
Hey Flo, check out this guys TH-cam channel called “zero backlash.” He had designed a cyclodial gear box which he is 3d printing. Good design but the 3d prints don’t look to be holding up. Would be cool to see if someone could cutting him some gears out of spring steel.
Sorry my question is this… so you center your work piece for me the inside diameter of the whole in the middle. Then I would assume your raw stock dimensions are programmed into your computer. Knowing the center of the inside hole allows the machine to know exactly where outside diameter or stock is. You cut wire after threading to center and rethread once centered on outside of diameter of stock and start cutting.
What is the reason for this? Is that gear used for gear rolling? or just for accuracy?
It's 71 teeth (prime number) so you can't mill conventional it in a easy way
Is the wire made of gold?
Typically brass or coated brass
Why wouldn’t you cut the gear out of a larger piece? You could set it up press start and walk away.
Well the raw material was round stock.
Awesome finishing..
Hi! How much time did you spend for to finish the work completely??? and the wire it's expensive???
how much time does it takes ?
5 Minutes/tooth, so about 6 hours for the complete gear wheel
How much of the thread does it take to cut such a gear wheel?
1.7km he said somewhere here
very good videos...wire cut is nice machine
What the full machining time (including wire inserting and positioning)?
5 Minutes/tooth, so about 6 hours of cutting for the complete gear wheel plus some additional time for positioning an threading the wire. So maybe 6,5 - 7 hours?
@@flo_5235 Tanks for answer. So. it's (5m/t) quiqly then may expectations but any way too long for comon practice
What is the thickness of this metal ?
About 15 mm
Can u share the machining parameters... Yhat will kind help full for me.... Li ke ip,vp, ton, toff..
The Brother control doesn't use those ´classical´ edm parameter. At 8:20 in the video you can see the command mode, the first 7 settings are changed for different materials and material thicknesses.
The CRT screen reminds me of pipboy from fallout. 😆
Video won a subscription from me! New to the machining world (work), so I am curious to see what others are capable of.
May I suggest: (a.) 16X the entire video? (b.) Instead of captions, let us hear your voice?
Do not mean to intrude at all, just think it would send it right over the edge ;) obviously the talent and audience is there.
Also, I cant steal the idea. I love watching @jimmydiresta videos and think his (older) videos would suit your type of work. Let me know what you think. I humbly suggest this :)
Thank you!
Well filming the edm process for time lapse takes a lot of time so it's much easier to do captions. And also it's get pretty boring after watch it a few seconds. I have a few videos where I talk a little bit, but I think I like the videos with the captions more. Talking in english isn't that easy for me ;) Not sure how the next video will be.
@@flo_5235 how do you charge per hour? per job? can you cut through any steel? specialty metals at all?
What's the point of having locating pins if you arent locating off them?
To keep the position of the part after turning it around
@@flo_5235 yes! so why cut the wire and thread the hole with the wire and recenter the bore then cut the wire again then rethread the wire on the outside ..... if you already had locating pins
@@Joemama555 he has to recenter it. Aanndd he wants it accurate.
Grossartig. Wenn ich das sehe, fang ich an zu sabbern :-). Wenn ich nur wuesste, was schruppen und schlichten bei ner EDM unterscheidet. Koennte man nicht direkt mit Schlichtwerten durchfahren? (Ich kenn nix vom drahten, wie man merkt)
Beim schruppen schaut man auf den höchsten Abtrag damit es möglichst schnell geht, Oberflächengüte spielt dabei keine Rolle. Ist bei meiner Maschine aber nicht so schlecht, die Verzahnung ist mit einem Schnitt gemacht. Beim schlichten wird dann die Oberfläche vom Schruppschnitt noch ´geglättet´, dabei nimmt man nur noch einige Hundertstel Material ab. Die Schlichtparameter würden im Vollschnitt noch langsamer laufen als es eh schon ist ;-)
Danke Florian. Ja, das trieb mich eben um, ob man nicht besser direkt im Vollschnitt mit Schlichtgeschwindigkeit faehrt, weil die Gesamtlaufzeit (und die Arbeit, die Du damit hast) am Ende so vielleicht geringer ist, als wenn Du alles zweimal abfaehrst.
@@udowillkomm1173 Die Agie Vision V2 an der ich arbeite kann im Schlichtgang kein Material voll schneiden, ständig Drahtrisse (Die Parameter werden zu fein sein um viel Materialabtrag zu erzielen), Beim Fräsen oder Drehen ballert man ja auch nicht mit nem Werkzeug ins Volle wenn man Schlichten will... Die Technologien die Agie einem zur Verfügung stellt sehen das auch nicht vor. Schruppen ist beim Drahterodieren auch sehr relativ zu betrachten, wenn ich mich jetzt nicht täusche schafft die Agie mit einem Schnitt (also nur "Schruppen") eine Oberflächengüte von Ra 1,8 bis 3,2 (je nach Material und Werkstückhöhe), Drahten ist auch nichts was mal eben schnell geht, das dauert seine Zeit
Das Maschinchen in dem Video ist auch echt sau alt, ich persönlich würde das komplett aus einer Platte schneiden, schön über Nacht laufen lassen, natürlich hab ich auch den Luxus eines 3D-Modells über das ich ein Programm erstellen kann ;)
First... use a lighter to cut your wire..makes threading the machine that much easier.. also, keep an eye on your water conductivity. .I think It is rather high, as rust build up quickly on your part..
Nice machine.. brother HS-300 right? I have an HS-100
It's a burr free cutter, this works quite well but I know a lighter is common. Water conductivity should be ok based on what the machine says. It stays about 5 and some times some water goes through the resin. And yes it's a HS-300, maybe you can make a video of your HS-100, would appreciate.
@@flo_5235 Water Conductivity at 5?.. mine is as well at the moment.. but for me that is time to change the Resin.. i have it set at 3.. no rust at all.. as soon as it hits 4 or higher.. rust becomes an issue..
I'm planning on making a video of my HS-100 soon.. stay tuned to my channel..
Nice job
I'm curious to know as how this wire Cuts this metal
@@tommolldev cool thanks for responding awesome vids to btw
@@tommolldev exactly correct.
How did you generate your toolpath ?
Fusion 360
Wow! Shaublin cnc , I would have made the whole lot in the wire edm , if there was enough capacity, Keep up the good work!