Laser Cut and Resin Filled Maker Plates.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 ก.ค. 2024
- In this video I demonstrate some techniques for making small decorative maker plates using wood, resin and a variety of dyes, fillers and pastes. Having a laser cutter/engraver helps but a CNC router or a good hand or machine powered fret saw could also be used. I'm still not sure if using a vacuum chamber was a good idea but I ended up with three good plates out of five so maybe it helps.
End music - Time (Pink Floyd) - The Royal Philharmonic Orchestra. - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Thank you Mr. P for sharing. A lot to think about in those little projects. Has given me a few ideas for future projects. Looking forward to the next one. Cheers
Good Show Mate...as always. Failure is your friend. You learn what NOT TO DO. True experts are those who have done it. Made their mistakes and live to tell about it. I have much experience in this area. Always interesting stuff you put out. Thanx! I truly appreciate you doing things and letting us watch.
Thank you for sharing this information about this product I'm going to save this to my friends playlist. Look forward to hear from you by 4 now Ken
Thanks for the video. Nice instruction that can be used on lots of projects.
It's good to see how you learned from your mistakes and others can do the same.
Yeah, love the blue.
Mark I envy your patience and expiramental nature.
Thanks Mark, always a good watch
Hi Mark! I am so glad I found your channel on youtube.
LOVE the full length videos you post,with all the details. They are very helpful! 👍
Thanks for the vote of confidence. More content out shortly.
Regards,
Mark
Another awesome video. I always look forward to any content you produce. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Guy. That's good to hear because the next video is one of those "and now for something completely different" topics.
Regards,
Mark
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Very interesting - so many factors to consider. Glad to see that you weren't consumed in the recent conflagrations.
Ian, we were quite safe although there were some evacuations going on near us. It made us check with our insurer though. I now have to do a fairly accurate inventory of all my tools and equipment in the shed. We have adequate cover but without an inventory, the insurer claimed that they could not assess the dollar value of what might be lost in a fire.
Regards,
Mark
This is awesome!
brilliant summary thanks mate!!
Nice demo thank you.
I like all of it very col stuff. James from Arizona
Great video mate. Lots of helpful tips there. Been lasering and engraving for a while and now considering the best ways to fill them. Maybe my first project being dice is a little ambitious. Thanks for the tips.
Laser technology well done 👍 thanks for sharingUnited we stand I look forward to hear from you by 4 now Ken God bless
I love my laser. It was a real phoenix from the ashes project but it has been reliable and useful so I don't even resent the amount of space it takes up in the workshop!
Regards,
Mark
very good Fantastic 👍
Well done video! Thank you for taking us through your whole process. I'm going to be exploring the same techniques you showed, and you've given some great tips in line with my own personal mantra "I may not know how to do it, but I know many ways not to do it" :)
A couple of ideas for you:
1) bubble elimination by pressure vs vacuum
An alternative technique used with resin is using pressure. You put the resin into a pressure pot, bring the pressure up to ~2 bar absolute and then let it cure under pressure. The pressure compresses the bubbles, possibly eliminating the problems you had been seeing.
2) mist the part with Isopropanol before resin
Isopropanol misted onto the part helps break the surface tension holding bubbles into those little corners, allowing them to float to the surface.
3) vinyl transfer film for "islands"
A technique I've used for doing laser cut inlays is before cutting applying clear vinyl transfer film to the back while tuning my laser power to cut the wood but not the vinyl. the film is sticky enough to hold pieces in place and should work well as the dam for the resin. Then in the sanding stage sanding stage remove the film and sand the back down by 0.5mm to give a crisp edge.
for inlays I do the inlay in reverse, finished side at the bottom, and make sure my veneer is thicker than the engraved pocket. After gluing in, sand to bring everything flush.
Thanks for the tips. I must say, I don't do a lot of work with coloured resins but it's definitely a rabbit hole. It's funny how plentiful those resources are now. Back in the bad old days it was all polyester resins and they were a nightmare to work with.
Regards,
Mark
cool, i'll give this a go soon
Thanks for sharing! More glitter than...........HA!
thank you
Good morning, Mark, from New England. Thank you for the very timely advice on backing tape. I would think Vixie would look very nice in italics and kerning the V and the i.
Michael, I used a font called Ethnocentric which had angular end points on the characters. I was trying to use elements which looked like individual segments from the 7 segment display. I agree with you regarding the kerning issue. Now that you have pointed it out I can see that it needs tweaking. 😢
Regards,
Preso
Nice 👍
I admire your patience. I would simply use a label maker and call it done. I guess all the imagination is in Australia. Take care.
Roy, I used to have three of those vintage Dymo labelling machines and I gave them away thinking they were obsolete. Now I dearly want to have them back. I did check with the people I gave them to and they dumped them in a clean out. 😥
Regards,
Preso
I never would have guessed “Breaking Bad” would be seen in Queensland! Add “The Sopranos” and you have the best American TV ever. Oh, and nice work on those logos. Lots of good info passed along there.
We are able to get Breaking Bad on the streaming services here. I have watched it twice and "Better Call Saul"
Regards,
Mark
Mark Presling I’ll keep an eye on your videos and if start to see purple clothes and objects in all the scenes I’ll call the authorities!
Having done air craft part repair I have found that clear shipping tape works well.
Yes, that seems to be the recommended tape from people more used to using this material than I.
Hi Mark if you try another clock ever thought about doing the logo in the same way as the 7 bit digits then putting a coloured LED in a light box to illuminate it colour changing would look good, BTW great video.
Ahhh, been there, done that. Check out this video. th-cam.com/video/wFLafEO43lg/w-d-xo.html or have you already watched it?
Regards,
Mark
Hey @Mark Presling great video showing all the steps! just curious, what do you use to hold on to the thin pieces when you are sanding them?
Double sided tape works well.
Regards,
Mark
Hey @Mark, thank you so much for the video, very informative! Im looking to do an epoxy fill like you have done with the walter white image. In your experience, how deep do you need to cut in order to get a good, detailed fill? You mention 1 mm deep, would there be any point of going deeper?
About 1mm seems to work well. Going deeper would make the epoxy stronger which might be worthwhile if the wood is likely to warp or shrink. Either way, you need to use well seasoned wood and it should be inherently stable. MDF is ideal but it doesn't look as nice as a nicely figured hardwood.
Regards,
Mark
what laser you using?
Being a vacuum chamber, I see no way for the air to circulate from back to front, there is no pressure difference between front and back. What is more likely, in your pre-treatment there was bubbles still trapped in the wood that came out when you applied the coloured resin.Thanks for your videos.
It would just be removing any entrained air bubbles from the stirring or pouring process
Would it be worst trying a different order of operations: first saturate the wood blank with epoxy, having them stay in the vacuum chamber for a good while to be sure they are completely devoid of air, then laser engrave and then fill with coloured resin?
There is something going on when the final coloured resin pour goes into the void. There should not be any way that bubbles could be pulled out of the wood since the surface of the cut wood has already been sealed off. Maybe there is trapped air in the masking tape? I didn't get around to trying duct tape but I am keen to see if it makes a difference. The bubbles are definitely forming on the bottom side of the wood sample. They don't come to the surface easily either.
Still a way to go with this technique but I got about 10 good versions out of about 15.
Regards,
Mark
I agree with Oliver. There is no way that bubbles are puled from back side, cos pressure is even on both sides.
My first gess is that bubbles are traped during epoxy pouring, and there are fine bubbles from mixing, that "grouped" during cure time.
Try higher vacuum, and longer time. Much longer, about half hour.
First put resin itself into the vacum for about half hour, so there are no bubles that are generated during mixing. After that pour it, but not with the stick, just slowly pour from the cup, so the resin can flow from cavity to cavity.
As for sealing...
I have some expirience with stabilizing wood (acrylic resin, much less viscous, but same prinnciple). You need to fully suspend peace of wood in resin for at least half hour in high vacum, and after that leave it in the resin for anotther half hour, so the resin can be "puled" into the wood.
Of course, you do not need full penetration cos you'r not stabilizing this peace, but your time is too short even for that.
@@Preso58 It is also possible that moisture from the wood is boiling off. Once the air is removed from the chamber, it is gone. There is no air left to come from the bottom side of the tape. That being said, it could also be something off-gassing from the tape and its adhesive.
Hi Mark Hey thanks for the tutorial. (Once a teacher always a teacher 😁). What do you think about using one of those food preserving vacuum machines? Really, thanks for sharing another great video with us.
I am guessing anything that lowers the relative pressure would work. Is that the old Vacola? It seems that back in the 60's every family had one!
Regards,
Mark
Mark Presling Well what I was thinking of is called “Foodsaver” 90s and later as I recall . So did you have any fire near by this season?
You dont want to use food saver style vacuums because they will trap the air inside the resin once the vac bag seals around the item. Plus if the resin is liquid enough it risks sucking the resin out with some of the air into the machine.
I loved the video and the details of the process.
The demonstration at my local wood turning club last week was about resin casting using vacuum. The demonstrator found out a vacuum can not only pull in air as you experienced with the porous masking tape, but also vapourize moisture in the wood. Hence she got some unexpected bubbles from the moisture.
I do wonder if compression could be a better method than vacuum.
In the US I use a resin from a company called Smooth-On.com, EpoxAcast 690. This has a low viscosity, around 200 cps (centipoise) which is thin for epoxies. It also has a 5 hour pot life. I have used this several times and never had issues with air bubbles. I think the low viscosity and long pot life allow the air bubbles to dissipate.
I agree the first stage to seal the wood with clear epoxy is important so the later coloured epoxy does not get into the pores.
The glitter and mica powders can look very nice.
Good call to create the maker plates. I can appreciate trying to add a logo or makers mark at the end of a complicated project may not go well.
Dave.
I agree that the low viscosity epoxies would be much easier to work with. I have seen lots of videos discussing the merits of using pressure instead of vacuum on epoxy and the troublesome bubbles. At the end of the day I don't have access to a pressure vessel suitable for the job. I still wonder how pressure can rupture a bubble. I thought it would simply shrink and grow depending on the relative pressure gradient. I made stacks of those plates and I could have used about six good ones on the clock but for bigger projects you would want to get it right the first time.
Regards,
Mark
Mark if you haven't seen his channel, check out Peter Brown. He dose a lot of stuff with epoxy and has done some videos on tinting epoxy with household items. There were some silly items (mustard) but there were also some very practical alternatives.
Andrew, who knew you could raid your wife's cosmetics for mica powders? I only watched a couple of Peter's videos but it looks like he has done a lot more experimenting than I have. I must go back to watch some more. Thanks for the referral.
Regards,
Mark
If you'd have used parcement paper, wax paper, or oil paper??
I now realise that I should have used something like duct tape. Anything non porous would work. It's surprising how porous masking tape is.
Regards,
Mark
Wow how many watts is your laser. Was the cutting in real time?
My laser is a 50W CO2. I did speed up the video in the opening sequence but on wood 2mm thick I use a cutting speed around 12mm/second and about 65% power.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 wow thats some powerful laser i figured it would of had to be powerful for that. Thanks for replying :)
How much was your laser engraver?
Ahh, that's a long story. But to make a long story short, I bought it by tender from the school where I used to work. It wasn't running when I bought it and it needed a lot of work to make it into a useful machine. I think I paid about $300 for it and probably spent another $600 on it (replaced the digital signal processor and added a motorised Z axis). It is still running on the original tube and I am now using Lightburn software which is great.
Regards,
Mark
Masking tape isnt air tight, which is why your fighting it. Use packing tape and the bubbles being pulled up thru the bottom should be eliminated
Matt, you are correct and I eventually realised what was going wrong but by then I had enough successful candidates to choose from.
Regards,
Mark
2 words "fabric paint"
But is it shiny? Gotta be shiny.
Regards,
Mark
Don’t use vacuum use pressure pot
If only I had one! I made the vacuum ejector for a big veneering project I was working on and thought is was worth a try. If I ever do any more of this I will have to look into the pressure pot thing.
Regards,
Mark
Pressure will do nothing.
You are trying to eliminate the air. Pressure will just squize air bubbles. At the moment you release the pressure they will come back again.
Sorry, but this has got to be the most overly complicated way of using resin I have ever seen.
Agreed. But, I often follow my instincts instead of researching what others have done before me. Sometimes dead ends and mis starts are just as instructional as doing it "correctly".
Regards,
Mark