You can learn a lot from James Wharrams designs and construction methods.. on old canoos they used hd nylon fabric to skin and strengthen then paint .. Wharram virtually pioneered the cruising catameran building his first in 1955. Hannika Boone is still running their buisness in the SW of England. Take a look at Mark of Wilding sailing building a Pahi 42 and theres a chap in Hawaii building his own Solar Electric light multihuls. Theres also a company out there that produces a twin hull fold flat catameran platform from Corex .. the tough corrugated twin or triple wall plastic. Handy as a transport platform if you can store it flat without creasing or crushing the tough corrugations. 🧙🏼♂️🇬🇧👍🏼
Wharram designs are great. The flexibility allowed through the lashing of the beams and deck makes them more resilient in rough water. Multi hulls have a lot to offer in their efficiency - great for solar. What is the company called that is making the Corex boats? Thanks for sharing!
@@ChannelX24 Hi there's quite a few Corex /corruflite boats and designs out there including canoes and small motor boats. But the one that's closest to the image saved on my old phone is like a longer AquaNaught.
@@clivestainlesssteelwomble7665 Its a material with quite a lot of possibilities for small craft. The weight being so little I suppose is a big plus, and how easy it is to cut for manufacturing. I wonder if solid polypropylene sheet could be used in the same way? It wouldn't be as lightweight but incredibly strong and wear resistant. Thanks I've had a look at the AquaNaut.
@@ChannelX24 It comes in different thicknesses and grades.. 8 or 10mm Corex is tough .. the darker the colour the better the UV resistance ...it's even semi fire retardant. Cut it with fine saws or Stanley blades. The one awkward bit is sealing the eds of the flutes.. to stop them filling with water...but it can be done. Solid polyprop is quite heavy.. the same suppliers also make vinyl boards which has a gloss finish over a lower density core. The most common thickness for correx is 4-6mm single flute ..used for estate agent signs etc. the big stuff is usually double wall and some even has an Al foil skin but in and it's tough as and as much as 25mm thick . There's the problem of plastics though.. and costs... Some pallets use ply tops.. but it depends what you want or need to do. I got interested years ago wanting to make SPAD RC flyingboat models. Simple Plastic Aeroplane Design's.
Nice work, thanks for the video. What are your thoughts on making pontoons from foam and poor mans fiberglass, (I'd probably reinforce the foam with ply or incorporate chicken wire for strength)?
Solid foam is a good option as it cant flood if damaged. Closed cell foam needs to be used for marine applications as it won't absorb water. You'll want to separate the foam from the water somehow (prevent fish nibbling and erosion). Cladding with ply could be a good way of doing this. I've not had experience during poor mans fiberglass, but I've looked into it in the past. It will depend on how long you want the pontoon to last, and how harsh the environment is. Epoxy effectively makes your ply into plastic so if you want something to be very tough and last a long time its a good option. Cotton is cheap, fiberglass is fairly cheap and epoxy is expensive. Have you looked into HPDE plastic barrels and containers? These can often be bought for cheap and then lasted to a pontoon frame. You could fill these with closed cell foam for redundancy and they are very tough.
Thank you. That would have been a better way of doing it. A concern was it slipping laterally. I think some sort of mount system would need to be designed for these thin hulls. Its something that's getting worked into future designs. MDPE pipe skids are definitely a great way to go.
@@PowerOfOne-u4h Yes it can. In fact it might be better than plywood because it doesn’t cavity rot and is super light like you said. Here’s an article about using closed cell foam board for boat construction: proafile.com/multihull-boats/article/dawson-proa-construction-method-part-1
Thats right they are several pieces laminated together. Each beam is composed of 8 pieces of wood. The core of the beam is 25×50mm pine stacked to a 100mm thickness then where it steps down 2 100mm pieces again on each end. I used microfiber strengthened epoxy to laminate the sections together and metal pins for alignment. Then again with epoxy and screws to laminate 9mm ply sheathing to each side of the beam. The ply sheathing is one continuous piece in the shape of the beam for each side.
You can learn a lot from James Wharrams designs and construction methods.. on old canoos they used hd nylon fabric to skin and strengthen then paint ..
Wharram virtually pioneered the cruising catameran building his first in 1955. Hannika Boone is still running their buisness in the SW of England.
Take a look at Mark of Wilding sailing building a Pahi 42 and theres a chap in Hawaii building his own Solar Electric light multihuls.
Theres also a company out there that produces a twin hull fold flat catameran platform from Corex .. the tough corrugated twin or triple wall plastic. Handy as a transport platform if you can store it flat without creasing or crushing the tough corrugations. 🧙🏼♂️🇬🇧👍🏼
Wharram designs are great. The flexibility allowed through the lashing of the beams and deck makes them more resilient in rough water. Multi hulls have a lot to offer in their efficiency - great for solar. What is the company called that is making the Corex boats? Thanks for sharing!
@@ChannelX24
Hi there's quite a few Corex /corruflite boats and designs out there including canoes and small motor boats. But the one that's closest to the image saved on my old phone is like a longer AquaNaught.
@@clivestainlesssteelwomble7665 Its a material with quite a lot of possibilities for small craft. The weight being so little I suppose is a big plus, and how easy it is to cut for manufacturing.
I wonder if solid polypropylene sheet could be used in the same way? It wouldn't be as lightweight but incredibly strong and wear resistant.
Thanks I've had a look at the AquaNaut.
@@ChannelX24
It comes in different thicknesses and grades.. 8 or 10mm Corex is tough .. the darker the colour the better the UV resistance ...it's even semi fire retardant. Cut it with fine saws or Stanley blades. The one awkward bit is sealing the eds of the flutes.. to stop them filling with water...but it can be done. Solid polyprop is quite heavy.. the same suppliers also make vinyl boards which has a gloss finish over a lower density core.
The most common thickness for correx is 4-6mm single flute ..used for estate agent signs etc. the big stuff is usually double wall and some even has an Al foil skin but in and it's tough as and as much as 25mm thick .
There's the problem of plastics though.. and costs... Some pallets use ply tops..
but it depends what you want or need to do.
I got interested years ago wanting to make SPAD RC flyingboat models. Simple Plastic Aeroplane Design's.
@@clivestainlesssteelwomble7665 Definitely sounds like its a material with a lot of potential for small boat design. Big strength to weight ratio.
Beautiful...!!!! 👍 love from Puerto 🇵🇷 Rico.!!!
Love the prototype
nice job. the point is you thought of it, made it, and completed the project.
Nice work, thanks for the video. What are your thoughts on making pontoons from foam and poor mans fiberglass, (I'd probably reinforce the foam with ply or incorporate chicken wire for strength)?
Solid foam is a good option as it cant flood if damaged. Closed cell foam needs to be used for marine applications as it won't absorb water. You'll want to separate the foam from the water somehow (prevent fish nibbling and erosion). Cladding with ply could be a good way of doing this. I've not had experience during poor mans fiberglass, but I've looked into it in the past. It will depend on how long you want the pontoon to last, and how harsh the environment is. Epoxy effectively makes your ply into plastic so if you want something to be very tough and last a long time its a good option. Cotton is cheap, fiberglass is fairly cheap and epoxy is expensive.
Have you looked into HPDE plastic barrels and containers? These can often be bought for cheap and then lasted to a pontoon frame. You could fill these with closed cell foam for redundancy and they are very tough.
You are an AMAZING CATAMARAN BUILDER
@@armandofermill5768 Haha, thank you
I love your boat style how to make great job Gudlock nice one
Great job, However: I would have used a long one piece per hull pvc pipe cut to fit full length of the keel.
Thank you. That would have been a better way of doing it. A concern was it slipping laterally. I think some sort of mount system would need to be designed for these thin hulls. Its something that's getting worked into future designs. MDPE pipe skids are definitely a great way to go.
@@ChannelX24 On another matter, do you know if foam board can be successfully fibreglassed? Would be a good way to make a light water craft hull.
@@PowerOfOne-u4h Yes it can. In fact it might be better than plywood because it doesn’t cavity rot and is super light like you said. Here’s an article about using closed cell foam board for boat construction: proafile.com/multihull-boats/article/dawson-proa-construction-method-part-1
@@ChannelX24 thanks for the prompt reply, I will check it out. cheers
Wow .... a boat ... that floats! Witchcraft!
@@jonhohensee3258 straight outta Salem 🧚♂️
I was thinking of 2 aluminium 18ft fishing boats and doing that ! with a bridge and birth between about 10 ft. apart and use it for big water .
Sounds good, the stability from a catamaran setup is fantastic. I'd add some buoyancy bags or chambers in case of the hulls flooding.
I'd like to share a beer or six with you mate. My kind of adventurer.
Ah thank you 🍺
Great..!
👌
Woukd love to know what was on the inside of the beams or did you just glue several pieces together to make one thick piece?
Thats right they are several pieces laminated together. Each beam is composed of 8 pieces of wood. The core of the beam is 25×50mm pine stacked to a 100mm thickness then where it steps down 2 100mm pieces again on each end. I used microfiber strengthened epoxy to laminate the sections together and metal pins for alignment. Then again with epoxy and screws to laminate 9mm ply sheathing to each side of the beam. The ply sheathing is one continuous piece in the shape of the beam for each side.