This has to be the best brake service overview I have ever seen. Plus all the info (links & torque specs) is just awesomeness! TY You need more subscribers, your content is too good & straight to the point.
Thanks for all your Miata content! I have a 97 and the motor is currently at the machine shop. Hopefully it’ll be on the road soon and I’ll be able to do fun stuff like this again.
@@DriveItRyan I managed to oil starve it and cook one of the connecting rod bearings while doing donuts. Which was worth it. Luckily I didn’t do anything to the crankshaft or the cylinder walls according to the machine shop. So I’m just going to do ACL main bearings and connecting rod bearings and then probably just do some mild head work to make it breath a little easier. By the end, hopefully I’ll have a nice and reliable OE spec Miata with FBO like yours. And then maybe, I’ll make a trip from Delaware to come see what lime rock is all about.
@@andrewdonahue5196 hahaha “which was worth it” made me laugh out loud. You just gotta send it! Sounds like you have a pretty good plan. Let me know when it’s ready. We have a ton of track days lined up this year. It’s always a good time 🤙
Oh ! And about bleeding the brakes, I recently tried the Chris Fix method, and it worked perfectly fine for me. The one person one, with small hose plugged on the breather, and the other end put into the bottle with fluid.
@@DriveItRyan as someone who used to do a ton of motorcycle trackdays/club racing and would bleed my brakes basically every weekend, i love the motion pro mini bleeder. they're marketed towards motorcycles, but i've always used it when doing my miata brakes as well; brakes are brakes. it has a socket with a rubber seal and a built-in wrench to crack open the nipple, and a check valve. so you just leave it connected and pump the brakes to dump fluid without having to worry about air getting in. though the best option is to just throw on a set of speed bleeders. only reason i didn't use them was because they were relatively new at the time and $$$$ back then. and i don't bleed my miata brakes often enough to bother. i've never liked those vacuum bleeders. always had problems getting them to seal and maintain suction properly.
Love the paint booth downstairs bro! I've always wanted a booth in my shop/garage lol. I've heard People say this but i didn't notice the huge night and day diff after stainless lines like everyone says. I used goodridge also. But idk, feels good knowing i have them i will say that
Haha the paint booth is as legit as it gets! Stainless lines are just one of those things you do for peace of mind, especially if you track your car. I did notice significant difference in pedal feel this time, but that could be because I did everything at once. I like them though and they sure do look nice 🤪
I use the same brake fluid with Hawk DTC-30 Pads in my Miata. They are a bit noisy and produce brake dust i have to clean every now and then. Performance is great though. Now changing stock rotors to DBA rotors. I should see a small improvement there in track use because of less rotational mass and better cooling.
I have the Motive. It works great, when it's not leaking fluid all over the place. Probably user error, but I think I'm pretty careful, and still make a mess every now and again.
Hahaha it’s inevitable with brake jobs. Did you see my pants at the end of this video? My paint leg is soaked with fluid and it’ll look that way til the end of time 😂
Another fun video Ryan. Brake job looks great! Love the part where you say don’t buy this piece of crap brake bleeder. I like that manual one. I think I’ll pick up one of those too. Nice job and have a happy and safe time racing this summer! Can I get my jack stands back now?
Hahaha yes I suppose you can have your jack stands back now 🤣 The manual hand pump bleeder is great. I wish I had one years ago. You’re welcome to borrow it anytime!
Raybestos Street Performance pads, AutoZone GT rotors and STR600 fluid on the daily/track day car(97). Raybestos ST41 front pads/Raybestos Street Performance rear pads, Raybestos blank rotors, Super Miata brake lines, STR600 fluid and dust shields removed on my spec car (96). Never liked the feel or how long Hawk HPS, HP+ or DTC60 pads lasted personally.
I’ve heard great things about the Raybestos pads. I may try them for the M3. I like these Hawks so far but I can’t comment on how long they last yet. Thank you for your feedback!
Hello! Thank you for the video. Recently I did stainless steel lines, new rotors, brake calipers, and hawk hp+ pads. After driving casually around I noticed that the brake pads and rotor got acceptionally hot. I noticed that my pads were dragging a lot, did you ever have the same issue? Not to sure if it is just a Hawk Hp thing as when I replaced them for my stock ones, all of my problems went away. No excessive heat was generated, and the wheel could spin more freely.
You need to adjust the rear caliper tension for the thicker pad, there are lots of videos showing how to adjust rear brakes. The fronts are non adjustable and should automatically adjust to a thicker pad. If the fronts drag you have a problem with the caliper or master cylinder.
I don't really feel the difference after swapping brake lines in my MX-5 and RX-8, BUT it really doesn't matter, cause I feel much better knowing that they are there, and they look good. Also, maybe I wasn't driving my cars hard enough yet, and there is the difference, but somewhere further the line :D
I think the kind of braking parts we have in the uk.....is completly different.... Brembo...you got them....? Always found standard Genuine oe mazda pads..worked best Brembo pads I tried.... on the back they used to clunk when reversing...... and on the front they just wore down too fast... with brake dust every were.... And got 50k from oe mazda front discs......... cross driiled the holes get blocked....grooved just wear the pads out rapido...... But i guess if you love changing brakes every week....compromise Ryan... can see you do I used high temp exhaust manifold paint for the calipers on my 3... paint em in summer....paint goes super hard.............she said..... never bled brakes so cant help on that one Amazingly fantastic Ali the camera lady :) N x
My buddy with the Mazda 3 also found that the OE pads and rotors worked best for daily use. My wrx has Brembo brakes with EDC pads. The rotors are warped though. I think they were cheap powerstop rotors. I can’t remember. Ali sure is a good camera gal! I’ll keep her around if she can tolerate it 🤪
I run Hawk HPS 5.0 on my WRX (with STI 4 pots), love them. Had them with the stock brakes beforehand and really liked them and still do. Im hoping to change to bigger brakes on my NA miata but the wheels that came on the car seem to be notoriously bad for brake clearance so I will need to change that first
You and I are in the same boat. I have 2 sets of 14” wheels for the Miata, so I’ll have to get a set of 15” wheels before I upgrade to a big brake kit. I’m also running the Sti Brembos on my Wrx, but the front rotors are warped badly. It’s in desperate need of a brake job. I’m glad to hear you like the hps5.0 as a long term pad too. I think these are going to be a new favorite 👍
@@DriveItRyan I have 15s right now but its the Konig Britelites which seem to be notorious for poor brake fitment! I have stoptech slotted rotors that have been holding up nicely, got all 4 for about 400 CAD from a shop local to me!
Dude looks like u got a hard top at the very end there!!! They're so hard to find where I'm at and then the guy wants fifteen hundred bucks for a raty one
I actually just sold it for exactly that. It came with my red Miata and I threw it on this car for the track day. I’ll be on the lookout for another one at some point.
Why do you say that? Because of less pedal modulation? I’m genuinely curious because I haven’t heard of many downsides to them other than the initial upfront cost.
@@DriveItRyan Basically rubber has alot more give. Im also in new england and I used to have to adjust my stainless lines alot as the weather changed. Stainless becomes a liability on the street since you have to kinda keep an eye on them if you dont want to lose your brakes putting around town. The benefits dont come out on the street since my brake temps dont get all that high off track. Thats why alot of manufacturers wont make them from the factory since they can be dangerous if you arent keeping an eye on them Just my 2 cents but on track you need them if you're doing heavy, heavy braking
This has to be the best brake service overview I have ever seen. Plus all the info (links & torque specs) is just awesomeness! TY You need more subscribers, your content is too good & straight to the point.
Thanks for all your Miata content! I have a 97 and the motor is currently at the machine shop. Hopefully it’ll be on the road soon and I’ll be able to do fun stuff like this again.
My last Miata was a 97! What are you getting done to it? If the head was warped, you might as well shave it down a bit and bump compression 😎
@@DriveItRyan I managed to oil starve it and cook one of the connecting rod bearings while doing donuts. Which was worth it. Luckily I didn’t do anything to the crankshaft or the cylinder walls according to the machine shop. So I’m just going to do ACL main bearings and connecting rod bearings and then probably just do some mild head work to make it breath a little easier.
By the end, hopefully I’ll have a nice and reliable OE spec Miata with FBO like yours.
And then maybe, I’ll make a trip from Delaware to come see what lime rock is all about.
@@andrewdonahue5196 hahaha “which was worth it” made me laugh out loud. You just gotta send it! Sounds like you have a pretty good plan. Let me know when it’s ready. We have a ton of track days lined up this year. It’s always a good time 🤙
Oh ! And about bleeding the brakes, I recently tried the Chris Fix method, and it worked perfectly fine for me. The one person one, with small hose plugged on the breather, and the other end put into the bottle with fluid.
I’ll have to give that a shot! Luckily for me, I have a ton of brake jobs in my near future 🙂🙃🙂
@@DriveItRyan as someone who used to do a ton of motorcycle trackdays/club racing and would bleed my brakes basically every weekend, i love the motion pro mini bleeder. they're marketed towards motorcycles, but i've always used it when doing my miata brakes as well; brakes are brakes. it has a socket with a rubber seal and a built-in wrench to crack open the nipple, and a check valve. so you just leave it connected and pump the brakes to dump fluid without having to worry about air getting in.
though the best option is to just throw on a set of speed bleeders. only reason i didn't use them was because they were relatively new at the time and $$$$ back then. and i don't bleed my miata brakes often enough to bother. i've never liked those vacuum bleeders. always had problems getting them to seal and maintain suction properly.
Looking good. Lol i love that paint booth. Worked perfect!
Love the paint booth downstairs bro! I've always wanted a booth in my shop/garage lol. I've heard People say this but i didn't notice the huge night and day diff after stainless lines like everyone says. I used goodridge also. But idk, feels good knowing i have them i will say that
Haha the paint booth is as legit as it gets! Stainless lines are just one of those things you do for peace of mind, especially if you track your car. I did notice significant difference in pedal feel this time, but that could be because I did everything at once. I like them though and they sure do look nice 🤪
Just saw the first minute and your my guy thanks 🙏🏽
I use the same brake fluid with Hawk DTC-30 Pads in my Miata. They are a bit noisy and produce brake dust i have to clean every now and then. Performance is great though. Now changing stock rotors to DBA rotors. I should see a small improvement there in track use because of less rotational mass and better cooling.
Those are nice little maxi-pads
Red goop gushy stuff is supplied with them and everything! That’s just a little ssssick 🥴
I have the Motive. It works great, when it's not leaking fluid all over the place. Probably user error, but I think I'm pretty careful, and still make a mess every now and again.
Hahaha it’s inevitable with brake jobs. Did you see my pants at the end of this video? My paint leg is soaked with fluid and it’ll look that way til the end of time 😂
Another fun video Ryan. Brake job looks great! Love the part where you say don’t buy this piece of crap brake bleeder. I like that manual one. I think I’ll pick up one of those too. Nice job and have a happy and safe time racing this summer! Can I get my jack stands back now?
Hahaha yes I suppose you can have your jack stands back now 🤣
The manual hand pump bleeder is great. I wish I had one years ago. You’re welcome to borrow it anytime!
Akebono pro act ultra premium pads. Centric 120 premium rotors
Raybestos Street Performance pads, AutoZone GT rotors and STR600 fluid on the daily/track day car(97). Raybestos ST41 front pads/Raybestos Street Performance rear pads, Raybestos blank rotors, Super Miata brake lines, STR600 fluid and dust shields removed on my spec car (96). Never liked the feel or how long Hawk HPS, HP+ or DTC60 pads lasted personally.
I use the one man bottle bleeding method.
I’ve heard great things about the Raybestos pads. I may try them for the M3. I like these Hawks so far but I can’t comment on how long they last yet. Thank you for your feedback!
Hello! Thank you for the video. Recently I did stainless steel lines, new rotors, brake calipers, and hawk hp+ pads. After driving casually around I noticed that the brake pads and rotor got acceptionally hot. I noticed that my pads were dragging a lot, did you ever have the same issue? Not to sure if it is just a Hawk Hp thing as when I replaced them for my stock ones, all of my problems went away. No excessive heat was generated, and the wheel could spin more freely.
You need to adjust the rear caliper tension for the thicker pad, there are lots of videos showing how to adjust rear brakes. The fronts are non adjustable and should automatically adjust to a thicker pad. If the fronts drag you have a problem with the caliper or master cylinder.
I don't really feel the difference after swapping brake lines in my MX-5 and RX-8, BUT it really doesn't matter, cause I feel much better knowing that they are there, and they look good. Also, maybe I wasn't driving my cars hard enough yet, and there is the difference, but somewhere further the line :D
Exactly! It’s nice knowing they are there and that they will hold up to abuse and high temps. They sure do look the part too 😎
I think the kind of braking parts we have in the uk.....is completly different....
Brembo...you got them....?
Always found standard Genuine oe mazda pads..worked best
Brembo pads I tried.... on the back they used to clunk when reversing...... and on the front they just wore down too fast... with brake dust every were....
And got 50k from oe mazda front discs.........
cross driiled the holes get blocked....grooved just wear the pads out rapido......
But i guess if you love changing brakes every week....compromise Ryan... can see you do
I used high temp exhaust manifold paint for the calipers on my 3... paint em in summer....paint goes super hard.............she said.....
never bled brakes so cant help on that one
Amazingly fantastic Ali the camera lady :)
N x
My buddy with the Mazda 3 also found that the OE pads and rotors worked best for daily use. My wrx has Brembo brakes with EDC pads. The rotors are warped though. I think they were cheap powerstop rotors. I can’t remember. Ali sure is a good camera gal! I’ll keep her around if she can tolerate it 🤪
I run Hawk HPS 5.0 on my WRX (with STI 4 pots), love them. Had them with the stock brakes beforehand and really liked them and still do. Im hoping to change to bigger brakes on my NA miata but the wheels that came on the car seem to be notoriously bad for brake clearance so I will need to change that first
You and I are in the same boat. I have 2 sets of 14” wheels for the Miata, so I’ll have to get a set of 15” wheels before I upgrade to a big brake kit.
I’m also running the Sti Brembos on my Wrx, but the front rotors are warped badly. It’s in desperate need of a brake job. I’m glad to hear you like the hps5.0 as a long term pad too. I think these are going to be a new favorite 👍
@@DriveItRyan I have 15s right now but its the Konig Britelites which seem to be notorious for poor brake fitment!
I have stoptech slotted rotors that have been holding up nicely, got all 4 for about 400 CAD from a shop local to me!
Dude looks like u got a hard top at the very end there!!! They're so hard to find where I'm at and then the guy wants fifteen hundred bucks for a raty one
I actually just sold it for exactly that. It came with my red Miata and I threw it on this car for the track day. I’ll be on the lookout for another one at some point.
@@DriveItRyan I've been waiting to come across a cheap one but im starting to think it might not happen for me lol.
@@travdripdrip382 yeah it’s going to be tough to find a cheap one online, especially in the enthusiast groups. I’ll keep an eye out for ya!
stainless lines on the track are nice but id say worse on the street
Why do you say that? Because of less pedal modulation? I’m genuinely curious because I haven’t heard of many downsides to them other than the initial upfront cost.
@@DriveItRyan Basically rubber has alot more give. Im also in new england and I used to have to adjust my stainless lines alot as the weather changed. Stainless becomes a liability on the street since you have to kinda keep an eye on them if you dont want to lose your brakes putting around town. The benefits dont come out on the street since my brake temps dont get all that high off track.
Thats why alot of manufacturers wont make them from the factory since they can be dangerous if you arent keeping an eye on them
Just my 2 cents but on track you need them if you're doing heavy, heavy braking
@@DriveItRyan th-cam.com/video/csV5gQo9wmc/w-d-xo.html savagegeese has a good vid explaining the pros and cons