Woodturning: Turning The Big Green Monster into 3 Bowls using Woodcut’s Bowlsaver Bowl Coring System
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ต.ค. 2024
- Woodturning: Turning The Big Green Monster into 3 Bowls using Woodcut’s Bowlsaver Bowl Coring System
I bought the Woodcut Bowlsaver Bowl Coring System and used it to core 3 bowls from the other half of The Big Green Monster black walnut blank.
#makebowlsnotshavings #woodturning #woodcut #woodcutbowlsaver #coringbowls
![“อาร์ต พศุตม์” เกือบเอี่ยวทุกคดีดัง เอ๊ะไว้ก่อน ไม่มีอะไรได้มาง่ายๆ | แฉ 16 ต.ค. 67 [2/3] | GMM25](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0Gx-0-kUBv8/mqdefault.jpg)
I’m so glad you got the coring system. And I see the rabbit 🐰
Thanks Janice, I’m so glad too! It will be interesting to see if the “image” changes as the blank dries and warps 🤔
Thanks Lisa! Great vid! ✌️❤️🍻🖖
Thanks Jack 😁
Another stroll through common sense with Bull Drummond😁😁 For an old timer like me... I'd go with the laser to confuse the youngsters😂. Keep happy, safe and well.👍👍☕
Hi Clive! I had a hard time picking a quote from this movie - there are several that i say on a regular basis 😂
I think a rabbit. Just saw this vid. Like bowls a lot. Big bowls remind me of my southern friends. Flour bowls for biscuits.. Thank You.
My grandma was from Mississippi and made the best biscuits on the planet. I’m so glad I didn’t find out I had celiac until after she died cuz I don’t think I would have been a blow to resist her biscuits!
Lisa, loved the video and all of your explanations and reasonings.
Hi Pam, I’m glad you enjoyed it! This thing is gonna be a game changer once I get a little more practice in setting it up to cut the right arc 😁
The worm wood screw is good. I did one today with the same coring system that you have. Good tool. Use your knock out bar that you use for your head stock and use it in the tail stock to loosen the morse taper in the tail stock. I have had the same problem. I agree with the tenon. It is easier to recenter after drying. I really like the system. Be sure to sharpen the cutters fairly often. Good job with the coring!
Thanks Jimmy!
Well done Lisa
Thanks Glenn!
Nice looking bowl and a fine job with the coring machine. Hope you have a wonderful week
Thank you Joey! 😁
Great video on the coring system. Looks like one of my next tool purchases. Thanks.
Hi Glen! None of the systems are cheap but they will pay for themselves quickly, especially when coring burls or other special blanks 👍
Great Video Ms. Lisa !!! 👍😁
Thanks Charity! 😊
Excellent review of the coring system!
Thanks! It definitely has the shortest learning curve and I think it will be just perfect for what I’m doing 😁
Hi Lisa. Very nice Core unit , bet you love not cleaning all those Chips. I love the Walnut Wood. Hope you are staying Safe. Peace be With You. Bye. Greg of Ohio.👍🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟
Thanks. Appears that the coring knife is really sharp.
It is indeed! I have CBN wheels and diamond plates/cards to sharpen it when it gets dull, though I think the preferred method is to sharpen it before each use and not let it go as far as getting dull. The tip should last a good long time!
nice demo - thanks! you've inspired me to blow the dust off my (never used) coring system and use it on a big old somewhat dry chunk of wood i've been eying ...
That’s awesome Liz! Which one do you have? Just take it nice and easy and don’t be in a hurry - it’s kinda like magic! 😁
@@LisaRamlow i believe it is a one way. you did make it look easy especially in your awareness of keeping the cutting edge clear. thanks!!
There are several good YT demos on the OneWay coring system - I know Shawn at wortheffort did one I found informative
th-cam.com/video/OjssqrNFkTc/w-d-xo.html
And Kent at Turn a Wood Bowl has one that I’ve not seen but based on his other videos I’m sure would be helpful
th-cam.com/video/EdfFWXHTEL8/w-d-xo.html
That is a Beautiful piece of wood.
Hi Rickey - it is indeed! And I’m very glad that for this half of this log I was able to make a couple of more bowls with some lovely grain and not make more spaghetti shavings on the floor 😁
Well done Lisa. First time I've seen a coring system explained to any degree. Looking forward to your next coring. Thank you for posting!
Thanks Mike, I’m glad you enjoyed it. Mike Waldt did a pretty in-depth demonstration of the Woodcut Bowlsaver not that long ago and was the final push for me to go this way instead of the OneWay. Wortheffort Woodworking has good demos of the the OneWay and the McNaughton, and RoboHippy has a very in-depth demo of the McNaughton. I’m very happy with this for my shop 😁
Very nice job, Lisa. 👍👍😊😊 love the walnut and the bowl saver system is awesome. 🙂😊😎
Thanks! I’m really happy with it. I think I’m going to re-check the height of the system and see if maybe it’s off a hair and that’s why my tailstock isn’t wanting to let go of the Morse taper 🤔
That’s cool!I had no idea how the coring system worked. Nifty! And I love the porridge bowls three! 🐻🐻🐻
They’ll be pretty sweet! 😁
Totally awesome!
They’re in the kiln drying as we speak! 😁
I’m thinking that coring is the way to go if you’re getting large enough half logs. Used my McNaughton a couple of weeks ago. Feels good to know that those inner bowls can be sold rather than swept up into the compost pile. Good video. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Doug! Yes, I only recently started really gathering my own turning blanks and will be able to get some larger logs that will be worth coring. It will pay for itself pretty quickly, especially when coring burls 😁
Very nice setup
Thanks, I think it’s going to be perfect for my situation 😁
Cool! Nice coring system. Looks like the laser would be a definite help. Thanks for sharing and your great explanation.
Take care, Dave
Thanks David! The templates do work but I’m sure I can get a more precise alignment (and therefore slightly larger cores) with the laser setup. Mike Waldt did a really good demo of the Bowlsaver not that long ago and really was the deciding factor for me in which system I went with 👍
And you've done it again. Another beauty Lisa. Couple tips on the woodcut. I use a wax block to keep the underside and outside curve of the blade lubricated. Also, watch for any build up on the outside of the blade as well. I keep a razor blade tool handy to keep that cleaned off. The build up can give you fits so keep an eye on it.
Thanks Tony! I have a block of paraffin wax and a block of beeswax in the shop - any preference? Thanks for the tip on the blade too, I’ll keep an eye on that. I think I’m going to check the height again and make sure I got the set screw on the tool post collar tight enough. I’m wondering if maybe it’s not dead on center and that’s why my tailstock isn’t wanting to let go without a bit of persuasion...
@@LisaRamlow I use the parafin wax. I actually use it on all surfaces when metal touches metal. Never hurts to check the screws and height but I also have the same problem with the tail stock. Not sure why though.
My tailstock has been a little wanky from the get-go so I just assumed it was tied up with that, but maybe it’s just the taper doing what it’s supposed to do 🤷♀️
I do have the older Woodcut system which only had 2 blades. One big upgrade they did with the 3 blade system was to make the platform it sits on and the plug into the tailstock much more heavy duty. The extra noise you hear is the blade rubbing on the wood. Like the Oneway, this system is designed to be set up dead center in the lathe, and to change trajectory, you can move it to either side of center. However, the blade is designed to fit into a specific arc/curve, so when off center it will rub a bit. With both the Oneway, and this system, if needed, you can off set it just a hair more or less to open up the kerf, or just keep coring. Some times, the rubbing can make smoke or steam, and I can't remember if I have gotten blisters from my McNaughton blades or not, but the blades can get hot. Don't remember what they said about sharpening them, but on recommendation from Kel McNaughton, he said use a coarse diamond hone on the bevel side. A fine hone will not hold up as well as a coarse one. You get a lot more life if you can avoid the grinder, but blade replacement is a part of their business. I have burnished burrs on the cutters, and that does seem to work, but can't say if it is better than a honed burr or not. I did like the laser pointer, and it is very handy for when you have to set up the system some what off center. If I was going to set it up on center every time, I would use spacer blocks like Oneway suggests. With your chuck in place, set up the blade you are going to use, and swing the coring blade through the arc, then keep that measure either with a piece of plywood or use a ruler. Those paper on plywood templates are awkward. You may be able to drill a center hole in the bolt and make a DIY pivoting measure wire or similar set up for arc of the blace/kerf. Having a coring system is essential if you sell your work. Only 3 or for cored bowl sets and you have paid for your system in the extra bowls, and that does not include time saved....
This one only have the 2 blades-the Bowlsaver Max with the 3 blades has been out of stock and honestly no doubt I’ll be coring blanks much bigger than this one. The cores may not be as large as the could possibly be as I’m limited by the two blade sizes, but 3 bowls is better than 1 regardless of size.
I tried to make a DIY laser guide-I’m not afraid of drilling into that bolt but to be honest I can’t get it loose to take it to the drill press! I don’t think it’s left hand thread, and so far I can’t get it to budge. So I took a socket that fit the bolt and made a little contraption to hold the laser pointer but I can’t get it solid enough to remain perfectly vertical, which is necessary or it won’t be accurate. None of the sockets, English or metric, were exact fits on the bolt head, at least as right as they needed to be to hold the rod vertically. Tried adding an it of the same OD as the bolt head to a deep well socket to see if I could add some rigidity, but that didn’t work out either. And at this point I could’ve just bought the damn laser guide (though it is still out of stock for a couple more weeks I think)
Do all the systems use the same cutter material? I have the 180 and 600 CBN wheels and 325/600/1200 Diamond cards as sharpening options
@@LisaRamlow Well, the cutters on the Woodcut coring system are Stellite. This is a similar material to Tantung, which is what I use for the Big Ugly tool. So, very hard, but not as hard as carbide, which means it can be sharpened with standard sharpening systems. Not sure what the material is that Kel uses on his coring blades. It is very thin. I have a couple of older blades that I have retipped with the tantung and they work fine. With the Oneway, I am not sure what the material they use is, but it is a 'hardened' metal. I don't care for their standard tips. As far as I am concerned, all of the coring blades are scrapers, and for rough cutting with scrapers, you need a burr. The Oneway system is designed to be sharpened on the top surface, which does not leave a burr. They now have a carbide cutter, and again, it is designed to be sharpened on the top side, and supposedly it is impossible to put a burr on carbide. I did get one of their standard cutters that was hardened but didn't have that point on it. I had to grind a taper to it so it would fit in the kerf. It cut far better than the standard tip they have, and I didn't have to take it off of the blade to sharpen it.
Can't remember, but I think the Woodcut coring system I got had the hole already drilled into the nut. Not sure if you could just take the top plate set up to the drill press and drill a center hole that way or not. Necessity is the mother of invention....
Parabéns um belo trabalho
Thank you! I’m looking forward to finish turning them once they are dry 😊
Wow!!! I really enjoyed this video. That coring system is great. I looked it up on Amazon and it's a little pricey buy it sure would pay for itself in a hurry with the material savings. Great job!
Hi Dave! Yes, it was something I researched and waited to buy but it won’t take very many cores to pay for itself, especially when coring burls. I did a smallish oak burl and got 2 bowls plus a potential platter and some funky scraps for hybrid blanks, and I have a larger burl to do that I think I can get 4 bowls out of 😁
Great video. Thanks.
Thanks Edwin!
Nice one Lisa, just got the same system for the same reasons.
Shay
Love mine!
Très jolie Lisa bravo ça me plaît 👏👍
Thank you Denis!
Im gonna spend this summer trying to make a bowl. Amazing video!
You’ll be hooked! 😁
Interesting, this is the first I have watched this process. Nice work!
Thanks Phil! It will save a lot of wood, and time too once I get a little more proficient in setting it up to cut the right arc. 😁
I realize this is an older video but you mentioned something that I may be able to you with. You mentioned about making a dedicated tool for cutting a dovetail on tenon for your jaws. I have your same chuck setup and I cut my tenon, put my lathe in reverse, and use the dove tail cutting tool on the other side of the tenon. I've never had a problem with it.
That’s a brilliant idea! Thanks for stopping by and for putting that little bug in my ear 😃
Very cool. Glad you finally got one. Think I may try and make one of my own design. Have some ideas after seeing all the others out there and seeing what they all seem to lack.
Thanks! I’ve seen some videos on YT where people did build their own so you should have lots of inspiration! 😁
hello, nice content, nice video
Thank you 😊
That is fantastic! I hated to see all that beautiful wood left on the floor. Good job!
Yes, it is one of the hard things about turning - making pretty wood shavings instead of pretty wood bowls! 😊
Nice Lisa! The grain on the second one looked amazing. Can’t wait to see it if you film that one being finished. And as you said, nice to get three instead of one and a pile of shavings. Well done
Hi John! Yes, I’m really pleased with this blank overall and the fact that I was able to get three bowls out of it, even though the baby bowl is pretty small. I’m also really pleased that even though I didn’t get a very clean (or even) cut when I cut the log lengthwise, I did a decent job with my forstner bit flattening and the large bowl blank came out pretty balanced, as far as the tinges of light sapwood on the rim. I don’t know how much of that will still be there after it’s dried and I finish turn it, but the balance is not too shabby! 😁
Hi Lisa, I watched Kent from Turn A Wood Bowl and he used the oneway system. It did look complicated to set up but think it does a good job, still you need to use what you are comfortable with, have you watched any of Kent's video's not been cheeky but I think it would help you with some of your techniques, look forward to seeing how the bowls turn out when the time comes and what you do next.
Hi Lewis! Yes, i watch a lot of Kent’s videos, among other YT turners and learn a little bit from each one. I recently watched a demo David Ellsworth did for a turning club and the thing I came away with from his demo is that there are definitely lots of ways to turn and none of them are wrong unless you are doing something unsafe. I’ve watched all of Stuart Batty’s videos on Vimeo and his demos for turning clubs and can say with relative confidence that David and Stuart are definitely in the top ten list of all-time best woodturners and probably near the top. And they have completely different philosophies, approaches, even tool grind preferences - almost totally opposite opinions and teachings in some cases. I think turning ends up being a pretty individual thing and also an evolving thing. I assumed I would use the 55deg Ellsworth grind when I started, but I bought a 1/2’ Thompson gouge with the 40/40 grind because I think Stuart’s approach to the physics of gouges cutting makes sense, but my favorite gouge at the moment is the 60deg fingernail grind that came on my Thompson 5/8’ bowl gouge. I have 2 gouges with the 60deg, 2 with the 55deg and 1 with the 40/40 and sometimes I use them all on one project!
Then you have the differing opinions on the best final pass - some say you’ll never get a smoother surface than by cutting. Others say (Jimmy Clewes in particular) that no matter how gently you glide the bevel you’re going to burnish the wood to some degree and then you have to sand out the burnishing marks and so he shear scrapes as his final pass. I’m tending to agree with Jimmy on that front at the moment, as I find it much faster to sand out the surface left by scraping or shear scraping that to sand out the burnishing lines. 🤷♀️ I guess in the end we do what works for the moment and try to improve as we go along, and experimenting with different techniques is a good thing - something that works for one person may not work as well for someone else. Fortunately there are lots of good teachers out there for us to learn from!
@@LisaRamlow wow you have done some research, glad you have seen Kent's videos I watch Phil at Shady Acres for entertaining videos, well and yours of course love your voice overs.
Nice bowls 😊 and don't think, just throw 😉
Roses go in the front big guy 😂
@@LisaRamlow 😂
Lovely piece of wood, and some great tips as well. I use the McNaughton Corer myself. When I do coring, I do the small one first, then flip it inside once loose, and put a tenon on it's bottom for turning later, then do the next size up, and do the same. I find that's much easier, but there is a little more setting up with the MN initially, but once you get going it takes about the same amount of time. Obviously any Coring is easier with green wood.
You’re using the inside of the bowl left on the chuck after coring as like a jam chuck to put the tenon on the smallest one? I’m doing the middle bowl first (as do most of the tutorials/demos I watched for the Bowlsaver) because I don’t have. Longworth chuck or Cole/mega jaws so I find it much simpler to core the middle bowl, finish the big one still on the chuck, and then remount the middle on the wormwood screw and repeat. Yes, green wood is lovely for this, although I did a piece of very wet aspen and I had to clear the shavings much more frequently and because they were pretty wet they wanted to stick to the cutter. Probably a sweet spot for moisture content but we get what we get and don’t throw a fit, right!? 😂
Check out Wortheffort, Shaun has a video where his Dad shows how to use the MN, and the method I described. You don't need Cole Jaws for that, as your just flipping the cored out blank inside the larger piece that's still mounted, the tailstock holds the smaller piece inside the larger piece so you can make a Tennon for mounting later.
I think you did great, green wood is just easier to cut through, as you know, and it's easier on your body.
th-cam.com/video/NOAfJZEKCFc/w-d-xo.html is the video I mention above, at about the 19:28 mark is when he gets the core out and turns it around.
Awesome video Lisa, that coring system should work well for saving a lot of wood and give you more bowls to turn! Well done and thanks!
Cheers Al
Thanks Al! I think it’s going to be perfect for my shop. 😁
Nice job! I don't have a scoring system found your video very informative. I was wondering about small bowl first and why wouldn't you use the same tool for mortise and tenon
Hi David! You can do the small bowl first but it presents some challenges if you don’t have a longworth chuck or cole jaws. Mike Waldt explains it quickly and easily here - I’ve linked it to the part of the video where he shows why he did the middle bowl first, but he has 2 videos on the Bowlsaver that are pretty recent and more in-depth than what I did here.
th-cam.com/video/V4pUpquhnPY/w-d-xo.html
The Nova Dovetail tool could be used for both a mortise or tenon, but its shaped like a scraper where the top of the tool sticks out a little further than the bottom of the tool, so there’s like a slight bevel? I suppose it could be sharpened differently but most people use a skew for the tenon anyway and I don’t really want to mess with the profile at all, just keep honing it to maintain the correct angle for the mortise. Since I have those nice D-Way scrapers now, I rarely use the BB bowl scrapers and one of them is actually a pretty good candidate for a dedicated tenon scraper.
Finally LR😉 I like this system over that other one. This looks simpler and more robust. I dare say when I google it the price of it over here will shock me. Did you ever do that shop tour for us?????
Hey Chris! Yea. The price was 😳 but in the end no more expensive than the other systems once you buy the knife sets and stuff. I have my trailer and an 18” chainsaw ready now so I can get my own blanks, and can get logs big enough to core. I did an oak burl and got 2 bowls from that one and have another larger burl that I should get 4 from, so it won’t take long for the coring system to pay for itself.
I haven’t done a shop tour yet - been running around with my hair on fire getting stuff ready for a galley and to restock some local shops. And due to the aforementioned things. I can’t find much of my shop at the moment - pretty much looks like a bomb went off in there 😬
E uma exelente ferramenta mas nao temos no Brasil vou desenvolver uma parabéns e um grande abraço 🇧🇷
It’s sure nice to be able to make multiple bowls instead of a mountain of shavings 😁
Very interesting video Lisa, you should know I have the OneWay coring system currently on order.
Somewhat hoping it will get delivered around Father's day. 😁
Hey Leo! Excellent, I’m sure you will love it! I looked at reviews and demo videos on all of them and think they are all quality systems with pros and cons for each. I am really happy with my choice so far and think it’s going to be just perfect for what I want to do with it. Looking forward to seeing you do the OneWay setup!
Ha ! Great tool to have and you mastered it; it finally listened to you. Thanks for sharing🙏 Stay safe. -Mike😷 p.s. does a Bear Girl use bear grease to 'grease' the banjo ? 🐻
Hi Mike! We had a big bear visit the neighbor’s place last week.
Hoping it doesn’t come back down to our place - we had a few last summer looking for goodies but being Bear Girls, we know you have to put your bird feeders (and garbage and grill) away or they will decide your place is the favorite place for a buffet! 😬
@@LisaRamlow Oh noo ! We have one or five reported in the metro area each year in spring. Nobody worries 'cause That's Miles Away From Me. (nor do we hide away stuff) Gaak!
But you're in the sticks no ? So less people to run interference for you I suppose. Still ... Gaak!
Stay Safe. -Mike🐻
Yep, we moved into the bear’s home and we have a bunch of them in the area. Our neighbor just next door to where this one was last week has lived there since 1972 and until a couple of years ago had never seen a bear around. There have been several each year since, tho if they don’t get rewarded with bird food or garbage or other such bear delicacies they just move on through. Marie was sitting in a lounge chair down on the boardwalk by the lake yesterday reading and a red fox came bounding down the boardwalk. Didn’t notice her right away and was about a foot away from HER foot. Took off once it realized she was a HOOMAN and not part of the lounge chair but Marie said it was a pretty magical couple of moments. And we have a least weasel likely with little weasel-etts living in that same bog between our house and the tiny little lake we live on. And barred owls, and whip-or-wills, and porcupines, and flying squirrels, and red-shouldered hawks, and pileated and red-headed woodpeckers and all kinds of pretty amazing stuff. Lucky Bear Girls are we 😊
@@LisaRamlow Lucky Bear Girls are you 😊😊 And the magic moments count a whole lot 🧙 My magic is if I see a flock of turkeys on the wing at altitude - 6 to10 feet LOL
Very nice video. It's on the list. Question: why not core the small bowl first and work your way out? Is it that the center mass provides stability when you are cutting further away from center? Thanks for your work!
Hey there! You can do the small bowl first but it presents some challenges if you don’t have a longworth chuck or cole jaws. Mike Waldt explains it quickly and easily here - I’ve linked it to the part of the video where he shows why he did the middle bowl first, but he has 2 videos on the Bowlsaver that are pretty recent and more in-depth than what I did here.
th-cam.com/video/V4pUpquhnPY/w-d-xo.html
Your first coring went much smoother than mine. Nice job. I’m experimenting with microwaving the blanks now. Have you tried that?
I’m getting the hang of it but I almost always lose the smaller bowl behind the lathe 🙄😂
Nice! That system looks much easier than the One Way. What is the difference i the cost between the two? Thanks for demonstrating it for us!!
Hi there! To be honest I’m not sure exactly how much the OneWay system is because you have to buy the knife sets individually depending on the size bowls you think you’ll be making. I think this Woodcut Bowlsaver is designed for lathes 12-16” swing but there is more than enough length on the tool post to work with my Laguna 1836. Woodcut does make a BowlsaverMax that comes with a third and larger blade, but I doubt I will be working with bowl blanks much larger than this one and I am happy with the size of cores I got out of it. If I end up with the laser, I think I will be able to get a little larger baby bowl because the setup is more precise - I definitely want to err on the side of making them too thick.
All of the main coring systems are good products and have pros and cons - fortunately there are a lot of good demonstration videos out there for us to watch and compare.
Thanks for watching - I’m excited to show you guys the burl core!
@@LisaRamlow Thanks for all the great info!
Great video. Can this tool be used on a lathe with a 20” swing?
Hi Lisa! I’m not positive, but Woodcut makes a bigger one called the Bowlsaver Max that comes with three blades instead of two and I believe that’s for bigger lathes. You can check on their website to see for sure - overall, I’m pretty happy with mine
HIGHLY COOL. Expensive tool?
Hi Troy! Yes, all of the coring systems are pricey - I think I paid $425 for this one but it will pay for itself pretty quickly 😁
Hi great video cuestión ware I can get the cutting tool
Which tool, the Nova Dovetail tool?
I haven't used a corer. First video that I watched about one. I am curious that you don't start with the small bowl. You wouldn't have to remount until you were done coring. Since you have those templates to use, do you think you could clamp a leg on the cutter side of the template with a magnet to hold it on that big nut while you adjust the cutter. Just a thought I had from watching and listening to what you had to say about getting it set up. You got some nice bowls out of it.
Hi Joseph! You can do the small bowl first, but Mike Waldt explains quickly and easily here why he does the middle bowl first and his demo/review videos (he does a follow up to address questions like this one) was really the final deciding factor as to which system I was going to buy. I think the Bowlsaver is going to be just perfect for my shop. Anyway, I’ve linked to the part in his video where he shows the reasoning behind coring in the order he (and most of the videos I’ve seen) did:
th-cam.com/video/V4pUpquhnPY/w-d-xo.html
The laser guide from Woodcut is not particularly complicated and I tried to make one myself a couple of different ways - I used a socket that fit on the bolt and then a rod out from there, but none of the ways I tried kept the rod perfectly vertical and that is a necessity for the laser to be accurate. I haven’t thought much about doing anything with the templates themselves, but will have to look into some options there.😊
@@LisaRamlow It makes sense. If you have mega jaws ( can't think of their name ), once you are done coring, slap them in it and turn your tenon or mortise. Mike does great demos.
Yeah, no Cole jaws, mega jaws or longworth chuck here so this works best for me at the moment
Good job Lisa, What tool rest do you use thanks for reply
Hi Jean! I have the straight black one that came with the Laguna lathe and two of RoboHippy’s RoboRests - a small one and a larger one.
Very nice! Production should increase.
Indeed! It actually is faster to core the bowl out than to make the inside into shavings. Well, it will be once I get a better feel for the setup process 😉
HI, I am looking at the revo 18 36 or the revo 15 24, my wife saw this tool and thinks I should have it, great wife, but do I need a 18 36 to use that tool properly or can a bit smaller lathe work well? Have you tried the tool on a glued up block ? like 14x14 scraps kind of material?
Hi Mike! If you can afford the 1836 and have the space, I’d vote go bigger right off and not have to replace your lathe. I think this would work on a smaller lathe, but you can check WoodCut’s website for their minimum recommendations. I think a 1HP motor is iffy. I’ve not used it on glued up bowls or on resin so I can’t help you there but Jim Sprague at Sprague Woodturning has a coring system (I think it’s the OneWay, which is also a great setup) with a carbide cutter and he cores wood/resin bowls with that so maybe that would be helpful with dry bowl blanks? I know coring goes much more smoothly with wet wood but I don’t know if it’s feasible with dried blanks or not.
Hi! Love your deliberate attention to detail. Quick question: why not take the little bowl out first and then the medium one, all with just the original mortise? Cheers, Farmer John, Ontario, Canada
Hi John! Technically you could, but Mike Waldt does an excellent job of explaining why this method works well in most cases - I’ve linked to that part of his video here: th-cam.com/video/V4pUpquhnPY/w-d-xo.html
@@LisaRamlow Thanks Lisa, especially for your effort in providing a thoughtful answer! The problem which concerned you and Mike can be simply solved (if you wished!) by first coring the small bowl, then the larger one, all with the same undisturbed mortise and undisturbed coring set-up. You then solve the 'problem' of the missing tenon by popping the middle bowl onto a Longworth (or equivalent) adjustable chuck. Because the middle bowl is dead round from coring, and its rim is dead flat because you made it that way, you can get it perfectly centered almost instantly, and it's ready for a mortise or tenon on the bottom. That way you only set up the coring system once, not twice, and you don't have to attach a faceplate or worm screw to the un-cored middle chunk. Both get it done. Just something to think about. Cheers, Farmer John Ontario, Canada
Sorry Lisa, just for completeness, Mike Peace shows I believe, the One-Way MegaJaws system at 13:15 or so here: th-cam.com/video/CIqCQxWUkTk/w-d-xo.html and then there are many videos of Longworth chucks; for example: Jim Overton's demo at about the 5:00 mark here: th-cam.com/video/nEUaphq16Qw/w-d-xo.html ... looking at this I realized that if you were to use this variation, which is easily self centering, you would need to make a small indentation in what will become the hollowed side of your bowl, using an ordinary drill bit as for a worm screw, or a Forstner bit, to accommodate the little hub ... so one extra step! Sorry. Cheers, Farmer John
I’ve seen people do it both ways, but since I don’t at the moment have a longworth chuck or cole jaws or mega jaws, this seems to be the most efficient. That may change as I go along here. I did make a quick & dirty solution for cleaning up the outside of that aspen bowl with the turquoise rim that would work in a pinch but it doesn’t run super true. i cut a 17” circle from the only 3/4’ ply I had on hand, which wasn’t the good 7 or 9 layer birch plywood, cut a smaller circle and glued it to the back of the bigger one. Mounted the faceplate to the smaller one and trued them both up the best I could. Spray glued shelf liner to the big one and used that as a flat surface for the rim to sit against when I engaged the tailstock and made a jam chuck out of the whole thing. Did the job - I was able to cut out the marks where it slipped off the tailstock when i was taking the tenon off and I blended that bottom part of the outside bowl back into the top part and salvaged what turned out to be a pretty cool bowl! But it is far from an ideal solution 😂
@@LisaRamlowThanks Lisa ... some good alternatives to consider ... Farmer John
Also I don’t have 220 power in my shop so I’ll got a Jet 1440 120 volt lathe. I’m guessing that I don’t have enough power for a coring system. Thoughts?
I’m. It positive about that - I’d check into the manufacturer’s recommendation for each system.
Great video. Looking at getting one..how do you Sharpen the cutter??
Just with a Diamond card - easy peasy. I wish I had the bigger one but it took a while to save for this one so imma just be happy I have one at all! 😁
Get the laser, you won’t regret it. Kerry Corey has a few informative videos on this coring system.
Yeah it's still on my list...along with a new OneWay live tail center to replace my Laguna and....🤣
Handy system, but I would probably cut the small core, first, and work my way out. You could do it all, in one setup of the coring attachments. You would just have to move the blades. 🤷♂️
Am I missing something?
Hi Joel! You can do the small bowl first but it presents some challenges if you don’t have a longworth chuck or cole jaws. Mike Waldt explains it quickly and easily here - I’ve linked it to the part of the video where he shows why he did the middle bowl first, but he has 2 videos on the Bowlsaver that are pretty recent and more in-depth than what I did here.
th-cam.com/video/V4pUpquhnPY/w-d-xo.html
Is your laguna the 2hp or 3hp? I have the 2hp and i just used the same system to core some wet walnut and i keep stopping the lathe several times when coring. I thought 2 hp would be plenty
Hey sorry for the delay! Mine is the 220v 2HP and I haven’t ever bogged it down coring. But I do core slowly and clear the shavings often.
Why do you use anchor seal before putting the piece in the kiln, if you are trying to dry the piece?
Hey Arnie! On normal bowl blanks I only seal the end grain before I put it in the kiln but with the burl you just don’t really know what it’s gonna do. The AnchorSeal just slows the drying down and helps reduce cracks, particularly on the end grain. A load of bowls is done in the kiln within 6 weeks and I have enough to keep me busy so if it’s a bit slower than that, no biggie.
Hi Lisa, I would have started with coring the inside of the inner bowl, then cut out the inner bowl and then cut out the second bowl, it just mean you would have less set ups, if you know what I mean
Keep safe
Hi Phil, I do know what you mean but for me it would have been more of a hassle. Mike Waldt explains it quickly and easily in this clip:
th-cam.com/video/V4pUpquhnPY/w-d-xo.html
@@LisaRamlow Hi Lisa, Very interesting video and I can now appreciate the different aspects of both methods, thank you
Keep safe
Don’t have a bowl saver, but it seems to me that it would be much simpler to core out the small bowl first.
Not so much I’d you don’t have Cole jaws or a longworth chuck. It’s easier for me to reuse the wormwood screw hole and put the mortise/tenon on the middle bowl, and then the same for the baby bowl.
Why not do the smallest bowls first, and then the middle? Only one mounting to the chuck.
Hi Mark! You can do the small bowl first, but Mike Waldt explains quickly and easily here why he does the middle bowl first and his demo/review videos (he does a follow up to address questions like this one) was really the final deciding factor as to which system I was going to buy. I think the Bowlsaver is going to be just perfect for my shop. Anyway, I’ve linked to the part in his video where he shows the reasoning behind coring in the order he (and most of the videos I’ve seen) did:
th-cam.com/video/V4pUpquhnPY/w-d-xo.html
Tk you i Find it
Oh good! 😊
May I ask a silly question, why not cut the center bowl first?
Hi Rickey! You certainly could do it that way but it means you have to figure out how to hold onto the middle bowl to put a mortise or tenon on it. Mike Waldt explains it here, quickly and easily: th-cam.com/video/V4pUpquhnPY/w-d-xo.html
@@LisaRamlow Ty, Understand now.
Gostei muito, você de mim falar onde comprar um dispositivo desse ,e como é o nome
Hello Nathan, sorry for the delay! You can purchase this coring system and more from www.woodcut-tools.com/
They also have new systems that can do larger bowls
@@LisaRamlow obrigado por sua atenção ao mim responder