The biggest take away for me, is the fact you genuinely seam to care. That shop and customer are extremely fortunate they had such a great resource to turn to. How many people would be getting ripped off or replacing a perfectly good car over a relay.
Being a diagnostic tech is a whole other level i know mechanics that don’t really work on cars but are extremely good at figuring out issues like this guy.
I wish the OEM service data (from all manufacturers) gave better details on ECU ‘default actions/safe mode’ operation when strange conditions exist. Two weeks ago I had a Hyundai where the ECU would shut off the AC compressor when the CKP signal was weak (but present).
@@mikeklimavicius5670thanks for sharing. My daughter just got an Altima and has the same problem. Did you then have to replace the stop relay switch like this shop had to do also?
I’m noticing a pattern with Nissan brake light switches, this is like the 7th video I’ve seen about Nissans having weird problems because of faulty brake light switches. Almost to 100k, I can’t wait to see that. You deserve many more.
We have a 2018 Nissan Altima and it does this also. I shut car off and restart it and it goes away. So I'm going to change this part and see if it works.
@@bradleymadosh3596 Hello Bradley, I have same problem with my car.... have you already changed the breaks switch ??.... please, let me know if so, and if your car is running well... thanks.
Had a similar problem with 2013 Nissan Sentra took it to two garages including Nissan dealer,they couldn’t figure it out. I did a search on TH-cam found a video saying check and see if there was moisture,actually water in the any of the brake lights and there was.Went to salvage yard got a replacement rear brake lens FIXED IT
I've had the same issue with my 2012 Altima since probably 2014 .. here we are 9 years later and finally someone smart enough to narrow it down to what the problem is. Thanks, Eric!
Just replaced these on my wife's car 2014 sentra. Hers was running fine but while driving it would lag and her rpm would go down. You'd press accelerator all the way in and nothing. When turning on the car too, the pedal icon wasn't on and you could start the car without pressing the break. Bow after the new parts, it works!!! MAF could also be a symptoms, I cleaned it prior to doing the brake sensors
I think your video just saved me thousands of dollars and many hours. I have a 2013 Nissan Maxima. I’ve been having a very similar issue issue but not stuck at 25mph my car will basically buck through acceleration randomly but I can get up to speed 50-60 if need be. Totally intermittent it took a long time to get worse and is very concerning when driving. No codes. Had the car looked at by 2 mechanics on was Nissan. Replaced the spark plugs for routine maintenance and did tranny fluid not to long ago. Nissan told me replace the transmission which is a awful answer. My engine mount is also bad so we thought maybe the engine moving caused something to be loose or crack letting air in. So we check d all tubing and wires to see if anything looked bad, we tested the car a whole bunch shaking it and braking quick hard Corning and realized something felt like it was sticking, and causing the brakes to go off. No Abs warning but we thought maybe that was kicking in for some reason. Watched your video and it all clicked together. It’s bucking on acceleration after hitting the brakes… the brake switch is sticking… my father was driving behind me and saw the brakes flicker a few times meaning it was engaging when I wasn’t hitting it. I just switched the plugs for $100 and no issues so far. Thank you so very much
Thank you so much for this video; it saved me from spending a lot on parts to find the problem. I had the same exact issue with my 2018 Honda CRV Touring. I drove two hours away from the city for work, and my car would randomly slow down numerous times. The RPM would drop, and the car slowed down as if the brakes were being applied. Then the RPM would go back up, and I'd regain speed, all without any check engine light or warning signs. Upon returning to the city, I had it checked and scanned, but no fault codes were found. They inspected the throttle body and cleaned it, checked the plugs (which were fine), and examined the fuel pump (which they also cleaned). They even removed the differential, but the problem persisted. The only option left seemed to be buying a new throttle body. However, I came across your video after extensive research before making a decision to purchase the new throttle body. To confirm that the issue was related to the brake switch, I turned on the cruise control to see if it would turn off on its own without touching the brake. It did indeed turned off, confirming that my car was applying the brakes randomly. I replaced the brake switch, and the problem was solved. My car now runs like new again. Thank you! 😊
I just encountered this problem (limited acceleration, trac control light turns on) on a 2021 Hyundai Accent, but I received a P0121 code (throttle body). Found out it was replaced at the dealer, but code and symptoms returned. Just for your video, I’ll ask the dealer to check the brake switch and relay now. Thanks for your great videos. You’re a great teacher!
I'm in a mechanic master or technician BUT I've been search stuff on good search and TH-cam video on how to troubleshoot in fixing Toyota Camry and Corolla that auto repair shops have no idea what I'm talking about. I've became a ROOKIE in fixing my Camry and Corolla maintenance. I've hardly ever taken my Camry and Corolla for maintenance to auto repair shops unless I absolutely have no idea and can't find anything on Google or your videos... this saves me a lot of $ and time.
Thank you Eric. Good job. Looks like one brake switch is for cruise control and other is to control the stop lamp relay, which will operate the stop lamps and also splices to signal to ECM, ABS, and BCM. Have a blessed week to you and your family.
@@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO Great diag bro I have the same scanner man I love it. Are you gonna stick with it or go with something else? Also have you used it for pcm and ewt alignment?
I'm a tech as well and just wanted to add that there's technically only 1 brake switch on these cars. The other is a "Cruise Cancel Switch". I always go OEM and replace both. Great diag btw!
Excellent, fully informed video including how you interpreted the diagnostic information. I’m a little surprised that the diagnostic tool didn’t alert you to the braking issue. Fabulous that you happened to notice the brake lights as you walked past the rear of the car and analytically connect it to the initial complaint! You are truly a mechanical detective!! Looking forward to more revelations!!!
I been working on cars since junior high school i cant wait to buy my first Diagnostic computer system I’ve had and have a cheap one but now since im a better over all mechanic its time to step my game up.
I have a 2006 Sentra, was accelerating uphill off an exit and the brake light came on and I was unable to accelerate past 25. Pulled over, turned car off, then it turned on again and hasn’t happened again. Maybe that is what’s wrong with my car. Mechanic ran all codes and nothing! This video was very helpful. Thank you 🙏🏾
Having same problem right now on 05 Sentra with 107k I have a code but this is worth looking into for sure mine kinda gives me a few second heads up and just starts idling down then turns off. I'm start it again and it acts fine
Thanks for the good tips. I owned a 2008 Altima 2.5 and have experienced problems with the brake light switch. It won't start and I suspected it to be a battery issue which was not. It worked well after changing the brake light switch. It pays to learn. Thank you.
BRO!!!! ur such an awesome person! my cars been doing the same exact things!!!! i kept thinking it was the transmission nd dont have that much money to switch it out. i will be getting the sensors nd relay replaced nd bc of ur video brother u may have just saved my bootiehole. THANK U THANK U THANK U for makin this video!!!!! i wish i was in texas to have u be my mechanic for life. i appreciate u soooo much!!!!!❤💯
Thanks for the great video. I met the same randomly driving issue just after replacing the brake servo. It was a 2016 Nissan Tiida 1.8L with CVT transmission. I used ThinkTool to record data like the first time you did. I cleaned the MAF, which seemed better, but still having the issue. Finally someone noticed the brake lights on and then I redid the adjustment a little bit longer. The issue was gone!!!
Very interesting and sensible ECM logic at work here but one which makes for a lot of head scratching. Very easy to see those brake lights on and dismiss their culpability in a limp mode issue.
I wish there were more people like you! I loved the way you approached the problem. I have a 2015 Nissian Rogue that is giving me similar problems. I am going to look into this solution. Thanks for a great video!!
This is great information! I am pretty sure this is part of what's going on with my Pathfinder. The dealer doesn't seem to be able to figure it out. I see the relays are dirt cheap, too.
We have a 2015 Nissan Murano with same issues ,, we’re gonna change the relay , fist then go for the brake switch ,, thanks for your great guidance on this issue,, 👍👍👍
Brother.. I have this same issue on my 2013 GT-R. Same exact symptoms, I think you may have just solved my issue. Ill call the shop today, and troubleshoot hopefully this fixes the issue 🙏🙏🙏
Thank you very much my daughter just bought a Nissan we had this problem and it sounds like you're right on. I wrench and I think you're spot-on with the diagnosis that I got thank you thank you very much.
Are there 2 different sensors you can buy or just 1? We’ve replaced 1 but not the other because we can’t find a second different one. Hope that makes sense? Or can we use the same one on both?
I was surprised at that as well. But then I saw it was two separate switches, so it probably happens normally if the pedal is in just the right spot. I think most other cars have a single assembly with the two switches so they are less likely to do that.
hi with me it happens after turning in a rounadout or emerging or to the main road, no revving kept pressing the pedal but not respinding, engine is on and after a couple of seconds it goes back, its just worrying me as sometimes cars are behind me it couls be a danger
My daughter had the same issue withher altima sr 2016. She got nervous and traded it in thinking it was the transmission. I told her to get it checked. Thanks for the video it was excellent.
I am just turning 60. I can no longer work in the field as a boiler tech or chillers. Just now looking seriously at becoming a mechanic for diagnosis in semi-retirement. I will know soon if my skills are transferable. I do quite a bit of electrical and mechanical diagnosis. I really admire the way your mind works... I would hire some guys who just really "got it" and they were fantastic techs. Already have a small shop and a lift that never gets used.
Have an Altima that when hot it would act up, rev high but go slow. Took it to a transmission shop and they said after testing that the transmission was failing. Not having that $$ I googled the issue and decided to replace the rotation sensor for $40. Once I installed the sensor it drove like new and is still going a couple years later
Very good diagnosis and tips! That would make sense if the B.L. switch is pushed, you wouldn't want engine power to continue. Gotta keep this video for future use and to send to my former co-workers. I'm retired, now I work on mostly my own.
Dang, I wish I would have come across this video while I stayed in Spring, Texas….I have a 2012 & 2015 Nissan Altima and the 2012 was given me the same problems. I sold it but now I need to have my 2015 checked because it has no heat. Great video!!!
Good dammmmm job I had to subscribe am having the same problem with my wife's car she almost got hit going through an intersection 2 days ago that's why am here so thank you 🙏
Nice one, I’ve repaired brake switch related problems recently & in the past. The problem with certain vehicles (Honda/Acura & Hyundai) is how the Brake-Switch buttons aren’t being fully pressed anymore. Usually for whatever reason, the manufacturers will leave a hole (or two) & have a “button presser” in said hole to fully press on the button(s). & said “button presser” will break apart causing all kinds of issues. The repair I’ve done that works is to get two pennies or any other coins 🪙, gorilla glue them together in a stacked fashion, & glue the stacked coins where the buttons would be pressed on the brake pedal neck. It’s been years since performing such a repair on various vehicles & I haven’t heard a complaint yet.
A mechanic that uses his brain. Not simply going through the motions and claiming first predictions are the issue. Great work. I only go to a mechanic "IF" I can not find the problem after first going through basics. Complete and thorough research. Going through every avenue and even then if I talk to a mechanic I look at his face, body language, listen to his replies evaluate his conclusions, compare them to my research. I have only had one mechanical problem that I couldn't figure out and guess what? Not even the mechanics could figure it out. Replaced brakes (all) to include wheel cylinder(s) calipers both front, Master cylinder, ABS module. Yet, seemed as if there was air in the system. That's another story. Either way, this guy really tries all avenues and I applaud his for his work.
U are a genius my guy. I have something similar to this one. 2006 acura tl automatic. No codes, goes into each gears, but does not respond when going into R/D gear. Customer thinks his transmission is done but it could be something small like what you discovered. Ty😊
My thought process was running right with you. Excellent idea to record data, that I didn't think of, norm I would ride and watch. And also, I was thinking unplug one switch and watch the scanner to figure out which one of the is sw/1 or sw/2. Fantastic brother!!! Nailed it. Much thanks for the video and some new knowledge !
Wow! A real mechanic, not just a parts changer! I had this EXACT problem on a 97 Nissan maxima. It eventually went to the scrap yard because no one in this rinky-dink town could fix the problem.
Yes bravo for the Automotive detective work that Nissan Engineered! Kudos to you my friend. I have subscribed and I'm only borrowing my friends 2018 Nissan Versa bc someone decided to vandalize my Mitsubishi Outlander. This Versa has been in the back yard for over a year parked. My friend doesn't know ish about cars. First thing I had to do was put a new battery in it. I then was able to scan it for codes. 2 codes popped up P0603 and P062F. However the symptoms while driving are exactly what is described in those video. This POS JATCO CVT tranny is whining, the RPM's are at idle while pushing the accelerator pedal. No throttle response. If you let up off the pedal the transmission the car is moving based on the idle speed being at about 1500 RPM's . To think a Brake Switch can wreak this much havoc is insane and Nissan INC needs to pony up and recall all these models that needs these brake switches and relays replaced. Its bad enough the transmissions are shotty crap that barely meets government standards now there's this issue that seems to be common place with hundreds of thousands Nissan car owners. Where's the NHTSA with this issue and when is this issue going to be rectified??? There's enough Nissan car owners Altima , Versa,Note,Sentra,Maxima, Rogue to get Nissan to recall these models and EAT THE COST of these repairs!! This is a DANGEROUS problem that people are suffering with that SCREAMS MALICIOUS on Nissan's behalf! There's power in numbers and I say let the Recall campaign begin!!! Enough is Enough! How many people have been told they need to replace their transmission when the main culprit is this Brake Relay and Switches!? How many Nissan owners are going to get seriously hurt or killed because they're driving around with this problem. THERE ARE OPTIONS. NISSAN INC address these issues or we can find a few attorneys who take on automakers who fail their customers!
Nice process. If you unplugged one of the sensors and scanned the ecu it would give you a code for sensors 1 or 2. I had a nissan 10 years ago that went into limp mode because 2 of the 3 break lights were blown.
Nice catch! I’ve had one of these on a Ford. Found BOA Brake Over Acceleration pid and verified brake switch was sticking on and Pcm was cutting out throttle.
Nissan always had weak cvt transmission's after 2007 model year made by jatco they are built bad they use 2 clutches with metal rubber band older transmission used to have clutches way better design I know all newer cars are going to cvt but Toyota and Honda never seen them go bad great diagnosis
Thank you so much for the video I have the same problem with my car and just wanted to update you that after replacing the relay I drove the car for a week absolutely no more intermittent problems so my problems is fixed
@Greg k No. I'm gonna schedule a full service Trans Oil change where they drop the pan, clean out the metal shavings that get stuck on a magnet. I've heard adding an extra oil cooler can help and replacing the Trans valve body helps this issue too
all your videos are awesome. i appreciate your hard work editing. im not a mechanic but entertaining to see your thought process. im in massachusettts near boston.
My 2015 Altima was doing the same thing on hot days. When I came to a stop it would take 5 seconds for the car to car even with the accelerator to function. I changed every sensor including both brake switches. It turned out to be bad transmission fluid. The factory ns2 fluid is crap. I changed it with amsoil cvt fluid and haven’t had a problem in over a year now.
I guess that is why there has been so many CVT problems because of the factory ns2 fluid probably have destroyed so many CVTS with angry 😠 customers guess Nissan dealers need switch over to Amsoil CVT fluid instead.
Man, I've got a similar issue with my 2007 Nissan Altima standard 4 cylinder. I just bought a Hitachi throttle body w/gasket from Amazon for an amazing price, but now, going to send it back to them to get a brake relay and work backwords. It only does this intermittently and at lower speeds during acceleration. On the highway I still get good performance. A couple of years ago I thought it might be my transmission (CVT) going out so in my desperation had my mechanic remove it from the car and send it to a Nissan dealer's shop costing me about $3300. Nissan wants to do all CVT transmissions and doesn't support local shops doing any of the work on them. It seemed fine for a while, but not sure what they did but replace the internal belt with the upgraded kevlar. It was making a whining noise. Anyway, thanks for this input and I've just subscribed to your channel for more tips! David 😊
Hey, I watch a lot of your videos and am glad I do. My relative is having the same problem and is trying to find which bake light relay is the culprit in which location. Thanks again.👍👍👍
Just fixed one just like this. Aftermarket floor mat would slide forward crumple up in brake pedal area. So if your not using factory floor mats cut hole in hook area of original mat hold down hooks. This will keep mat from sliding forward into brake switches area causing error.
Didn't see that coming, u would expect it to throw a brake corellation code at least, But seems like Nissans aren't really smart cars after all. As I just recently realized they don't even have cam crank correlation codes such as P0016 and P0018 only vvt codes such P0011 and P0021, Or maybe I am just wrong. Top notch diag as always Eric, Thanks a lot.
Thanks bro, I have a 2019 Nissan Sentra and the symptoms your explaining are similar to mine. I hope it's not the transmission and really just a brake switch relay! Thanks for the info! It could help me out 😊
The biggest take away for me, is the fact you genuinely seam to care. That shop and customer are extremely fortunate they had such a great resource to turn to. How many people would be getting ripped off or replacing a perfectly good car over a relay.
He’s got to be nothing short of the best diagnostic tech that I’ve ever seen.
The Dr Gregory house of cars!!
You can feel his positive energy.
He's a DETECTIVE
Being a diagnostic tech is a whole other level i know mechanics that don’t really work on cars but are extremely good at figuring out issues like this guy.
At 64 years of age this is a new one on me. Excellent diagnosis and presentation as always. Thank you for what you do.
I wish the OEM service data (from all manufacturers) gave better details on ECU ‘default actions/safe mode’ operation when strange conditions exist. Two weeks ago I had a Hyundai where the ECU would shut off the AC compressor when the CKP signal was weak (but present).
Dude, this is EXACTLY what happened to my son’s Altima. Now we know what to recommend to the mechanic. You rock brother!
Did it fix it? I have a 2014 same issue
@@dylanrose4102 yes, it was diagnosed as the Stop Lamp Switch and replaced. Issue gone!
Stop lamp switch
Where's it located excatly..pls?
@@mikeklimavicius5670thanks for sharing. My daughter just got an Altima and has the same problem. Did you then have to replace the stop relay switch like this shop had to do also?
I like this guy I wish I had him as my mechanic it looks like he cares about his customers very thorough
I’m noticing a pattern with Nissan brake light switches, this is like the 7th video I’ve seen about Nissans having weird problems because of faulty brake light switches.
Almost to 100k, I can’t wait to see that. You deserve many more.
We have a 2018 Nissan Altima and it does this also. I shut car off and restart it and it goes away. So I'm going to change this part and see if it works.
@@bradleymadosh3596 Hello Bradley, I have same problem with my car.... have you already changed the breaks switch ??.... please, let me know if so, and if your car is running well... thanks.
Had a similar problem with 2013 Nissan Sentra took it to two garages including Nissan dealer,they couldn’t figure it out. I did a search on TH-cam found a video saying check and see if there was moisture,actually water in the any of the brake lights and there was.Went to salvage yard got a replacement rear brake lens FIXED IT
Nice one! 👍 interesting case. You were fortunate to see the braking lights, otherwise it would have been a much longer diagnosis and head scratching 🤯
I've had the same issue with my 2012 Altima since probably 2014 .. here we are 9 years later and finally someone smart enough to narrow it down to what the problem is. Thanks, Eric!
Just replaced these on my wife's car 2014 sentra. Hers was running fine but while driving it would lag and her rpm would go down. You'd press accelerator all the way in and nothing. When turning on the car too, the pedal icon wasn't on and you could start the car without pressing the break. Bow after the new parts, it works!!! MAF could also be a symptoms, I cleaned it prior to doing the brake sensors
I love watching Eric's video, cause it's like watching Columbo solve another mystery.
I think your video just saved me thousands of dollars and many hours. I have a 2013 Nissan Maxima. I’ve been having a very similar issue issue but not stuck at 25mph my car will basically buck through acceleration randomly but I can get up to speed 50-60 if need be. Totally intermittent it took a long time to get worse and is very concerning when driving. No codes. Had the car looked at by 2 mechanics on was Nissan. Replaced the spark plugs for routine maintenance and did tranny fluid not to long ago. Nissan told me replace the transmission which is a awful answer.
My engine mount is also bad so we thought maybe the engine moving caused something to be loose or crack letting air in. So we check d all tubing and wires to see if anything looked bad, we tested the car a whole bunch shaking it and braking quick hard Corning and realized something felt like it was sticking, and causing the brakes to go off. No Abs warning but we thought maybe that was kicking in for some reason. Watched your video and it all clicked together. It’s bucking on acceleration after hitting the brakes… the brake switch is sticking… my father was driving behind me and saw the brakes flicker a few times meaning it was engaging when I wasn’t hitting it. I just switched the plugs for $100 and no issues so far. Thank you so very much
Awesome! I hope that solved your problem. Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for this video; it saved me from spending a lot on parts to find the problem. I had the same exact issue with my 2018 Honda CRV Touring. I drove two hours away from the city for work, and my car would randomly slow down numerous times. The RPM would drop, and the car slowed down as if the brakes were being applied. Then the RPM would go back up, and I'd regain speed, all without any check engine light or warning signs. Upon returning to the city, I had it checked and scanned, but no fault codes were found. They inspected the throttle body and cleaned it, checked the plugs (which were fine), and examined the fuel pump (which they also cleaned). They even removed the differential, but the problem persisted. The only option left seemed to be buying a new throttle body. However, I came across your video after extensive research before making a decision to purchase the new throttle body.
To confirm that the issue was related to the brake switch, I turned on the cruise control to see if it would turn off on its own without touching the brake. It did indeed turned off, confirming that my car was applying the brakes randomly. I replaced the brake switch, and the problem was solved. My car now runs like new again. Thank you! 😊
I just encountered this problem (limited acceleration, trac control light turns on) on a 2021 Hyundai Accent, but I received a P0121 code (throttle body). Found out it was replaced at the dealer, but code and symptoms returned. Just for your video, I’ll ask the dealer to check the brake switch and relay now. Thanks for your great videos. You’re a great teacher!
You is the only person that talks the truth about the problem blessing 🙏 to you
I'm in a mechanic master or technician BUT I've been search stuff on good search and TH-cam video on how to troubleshoot in fixing Toyota Camry and Corolla that auto repair shops have no idea what I'm talking about. I've became a ROOKIE in fixing my Camry and Corolla maintenance. I've hardly ever taken my Camry and Corolla for maintenance to auto repair shops unless I absolutely have no idea and can't find anything on Google or your videos... this saves me a lot of $ and time.
Thank you Eric. Good job. Looks like one brake switch is for cruise control and other is to control the stop lamp relay, which will operate the stop lamps and also splices to signal to ECM, ABS, and BCM. Have a blessed week to you and your family.
You're a very knowledgeable and contributing viewer. Every time I see your name, I make sure to read your comments. I appreciate your input.
Thanks for the info!
D
@@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO I may need your assistance with a 2004 Trailblazer, 4.2 I6, wont get up and go either.
@@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO
Great diag bro I have the same scanner man I love it. Are you gonna stick with it or go with something else? Also have you used it for pcm and ewt alignment?
I'm a tech as well and just wanted to add that there's technically only 1 brake switch on these cars. The other is a "Cruise Cancel Switch". I always go OEM and replace both. Great diag btw!
Excellent, fully informed video including how you interpreted the diagnostic information. I’m a little surprised that the diagnostic tool didn’t alert you to the braking issue. Fabulous that you happened to notice the brake lights as you walked past the rear of the car and analytically connect it to the initial complaint! You are truly a mechanical detective!! Looking forward to more revelations!!!
Great work as always, Eric! When you mentioned that there were no codes because the condition was intentional was genius.
I been working on cars since junior high school i cant wait to buy my first Diagnostic computer system I’ve had and have a cheap one but now since im a better over all mechanic its time to step my game up.
I have a 2006 Sentra, was accelerating uphill off an exit and the brake light came on and I was unable to accelerate past 25. Pulled over, turned car off, then it turned on again and hasn’t happened again. Maybe that is what’s wrong with my car. Mechanic ran all codes and nothing! This video was very helpful. Thank you 🙏🏾
Having same problem right now on 05 Sentra with 107k I have a code but this is worth looking into for sure mine kinda gives me a few second heads up and just starts idling down then turns off. I'm start it again and it acts fine
Alternator
Let me rephrase this I have a Maxima that this happens to, every time I change the alternator and this issue goes away.
@@traviskelly7082How many times have you changed the alternator?
@@molahi5779 4x but thats because I was getting remans from advance.
Thanks for the good tips. I owned a 2008 Altima 2.5 and have experienced problems with the brake light switch. It won't start and I suspected it to be a battery issue which was not. It worked well after changing the brake light switch. It pays to learn. Thank you.
BRO!!!! ur such an awesome person! my cars been doing the same exact things!!!! i kept thinking it was the transmission nd dont have that much money to switch it out. i will be getting the sensors nd relay replaced nd bc of ur video brother u may have just saved my bootiehole. THANK U THANK U THANK U for makin this video!!!!! i wish i was in texas to have u be my mechanic for life. i appreciate u soooo much!!!!!❤💯
Awesome masterclass for how to use that diagnostic tool.
It's cool when you post these head scratching diagnostic videos.
Awesome job!
i had the same issue could'nt get a solution but thank you so much now i known what might be the possibilities for problem. you are a genius 😊
You are professional mechanic, the fact that you analyzed very well let me subscribe
Thanks for the great video.
I met the same randomly driving issue just after replacing the brake servo. It was a 2016 Nissan Tiida 1.8L with CVT transmission. I used ThinkTool to record data like the first time you did. I cleaned the MAF, which seemed better, but still having the issue.
Finally someone noticed the brake lights on and then I redid the adjustment a little bit longer. The issue was gone!!!
One of the best diagnostic videos I have ever seen!! Thank you!!!
Very interesting and sensible ECM logic at work here but one which makes for a lot of head scratching. Very easy to see those brake lights on and dismiss their culpability in a limp mode issue.
I wish there were more people like you! I loved the way you approached the problem. I have a 2015 Nissian Rogue that is giving me similar problems. I am going to look into this solution. Thanks for a great video!!
Did it work for you
Did it work? I'm having the same issue
This is great information! I am pretty sure this is part of what's going on with my Pathfinder. The dealer doesn't seem to be able to figure it out. I see the relays are dirt cheap, too.
We have a 2015 Nissan Murano with same issues ,, we’re gonna change the relay , fist then go for the brake switch ,, thanks for your great guidance on this issue,, 👍👍👍
This is exactly what is going on with ours, thank you!
Brother.. I have this same issue on my 2013 GT-R. Same exact symptoms, I think you may have just solved my issue. Ill call the shop today, and troubleshoot hopefully this fixes the issue 🙏🙏🙏
Thank you very much my daughter just bought a Nissan we had this problem and it sounds like you're right on. I wrench and I think you're spot-on with the diagnosis that I got thank you thank you very much.
The king of diagnostic
You rocked this one. I have two with the same problem and now they are both fixed.
How do you fix it lets kmow
Are there 2 different sensors you can buy or just 1? We’ve replaced 1 but not the other because we can’t find a second different one. Hope that makes sense? Or can we use the same one on both?
Thank you for posting this. My 2015 Nissan Altima is doing exactly the same thing. I will replace the relay first.
I didn't regret watching this video. Very useful info, thanks.
I'm amazed that the two brake switches having the same status doesn't throw a code.
I was surprised at that as well. But then I saw it was two separate switches, so it probably happens normally if the pedal is in just the right spot. I think most other cars have a single assembly with the two switches so they are less likely to do that.
@@russellhltn1396 engineering missed the flowchart.
@@michaelshadwick3487 Maybe, but being two separate switches increases the likelihood of not being in sync and causing a nuisance code.
hi with me it happens after turning in a rounadout or emerging or to the main road, no revving kept pressing the pedal but not respinding, engine is on and after a couple of seconds it goes back, its just worrying me as sometimes cars are behind me it couls be a danger
What relay number is it?
you were fortunate to see that brake light staying on,,, good job!
My daughter had the same issue withher altima sr 2016. She got nervous and traded it in thinking it was the transmission. I told her to get it checked. Thanks for the video it was excellent.
Lmfaooooooo. You can just see the brake lights on in the back. Well what did she buy?
@@occckid123 Lol exactly. I wished I bought it from her.
I am just turning 60. I can no longer work in the field as a boiler tech or chillers. Just now looking seriously at becoming a mechanic for diagnosis in semi-retirement. I will know soon if my skills are transferable. I do quite a bit of electrical and mechanical diagnosis.
I really admire the way your mind works... I would hire some guys who just really "got it" and they were fantastic techs. Already have a small shop and a lift that never gets used.
Good diagnostic work. Thank you for sharing your experience.
Excellent video man! This is a great demonstration of the diagnostic process
This was a cool diagnosis! I definitely wasn’t thinking brake light switch at all! Great way to narrow it down bro!
Have an Altima that when hot it would act up, rev high but go slow. Took it to a transmission shop and they said after testing that the transmission was failing. Not having that $$ I googled the issue and decided to replace the rotation sensor for $40. Once I installed the sensor it drove like new and is still going a couple years later
Very good diagnosis and tips! That would make sense if the B.L. switch is pushed, you wouldn't want engine power to continue. Gotta keep this video for future use and to send to my former co-workers. I'm retired, now I work on mostly my own.
yes it's exactly what it does you can even confirm it in a perfectly working car, press the brake and then try to accelerate it will be unresponsive
I always learn something new from your videos, thanks
Dang, I wish I would have come across this video while I stayed in Spring, Texas….I have a 2012 & 2015 Nissan Altima and the 2012 was given me the same problems. I sold it but now I need to have my 2015 checked because it has no heat. Great video!!!
God bless you. You are a sincere and hardworking person.
Thanks! I’ve had the exact same issues w/ my 2013 Altima and was at my wits end trying figure out what’s wrong!
Did you fix it I’m having the same issue
Same thing here. Did you fix it?
You're not the only one, so tied up in repairs that there's little time left to edit!
Excellent as always, and VERY helpful!
This Video saved me big money thanks for taking the time to help.
Good dammmmm job I had to subscribe am having the same problem with my wife's car she almost got hit going through an intersection 2 days ago that's why am here so thank you 🙏
Nice one, I’ve repaired brake switch related problems recently & in the past. The problem with certain vehicles (Honda/Acura & Hyundai) is how the Brake-Switch buttons aren’t being fully pressed anymore.
Usually for whatever reason, the manufacturers will leave a hole (or two) & have a “button presser” in said hole to fully press on the button(s). & said “button presser” will break apart causing all kinds of issues.
The repair I’ve done that works is to get two pennies or any other coins 🪙, gorilla glue them together in a stacked fashion, & glue the stacked coins where the buttons would be pressed on the brake pedal neck. It’s been years since performing such a repair on various vehicles & I haven’t heard a complaint yet.
Would that work for a 2011 Altima 2.5?
Same with almost any Nissan going back to the 80's.
@@olguiq1013 yes that would.
@@marshmower indeed!
I love the scan tool that you are using. Seems way better than the big-name one from snappy at a much lower price.
Eric; your videos/information is Greatly appreciated
A mechanic that uses his brain. Not simply going through the motions and claiming first predictions are the issue. Great work. I only go to a mechanic "IF" I can not find the problem after first going through basics. Complete and thorough research. Going through every avenue and even then if I talk to a mechanic I look at his face, body language, listen to his replies evaluate his conclusions, compare them to my research. I have only had one mechanical problem that I couldn't figure out and guess what? Not even the mechanics could figure it out.
Replaced brakes (all) to include wheel cylinder(s) calipers both front, Master cylinder, ABS module. Yet, seemed as if there was air in the system. That's another story. Either way, this guy really tries all avenues and I applaud his for his work.
I'm happy that I've subbed to your channel. I'm loving the challenge; I'm learning.
This is my first real live testing with a car scanner video.❤
شكرا لك على الفيديو المفيد لقد امضيت ٣ اشهر بين ورش السيارات
Great video! And thanks for not calling the car an Ultima !
U are a genius my guy. I have something similar to this one. 2006 acura tl automatic. No codes, goes into each gears, but does not respond when going into R/D gear. Customer thinks his transmission is done but it could be something small like what you discovered. Ty😊
Advanced level Auto you are a godsend my sir and I appreciate your appetite for understanding
My thought process was running right with you. Excellent idea to record data, that I didn't think of, norm I would ride and watch. And also, I was thinking unplug one switch and watch the scanner to figure out which one of the is sw/1 or sw/2. Fantastic brother!!! Nailed it. Much thanks for the video and some new knowledge !
😊😊 g cop p hu💇🏾♂️😅🧖🏾♀️🙅♀️
Terrific diagnosis.
Wow! A real mechanic, not just a parts changer! I had this EXACT problem on a 97 Nissan maxima. It eventually went to the scrap yard because no one in this rinky-dink town could fix the problem.
You are just ....................................................... AMAZING !!! Thanks for the video !
very helpful knowledge and pratical experiences on car diagnose and repaire. Thank you very much.
Yes bravo for the Automotive detective work that Nissan Engineered! Kudos to you my friend. I have subscribed and I'm only borrowing my friends 2018 Nissan Versa bc someone decided to vandalize my Mitsubishi Outlander. This Versa has been in the back yard for over a year parked. My friend doesn't know ish about cars. First thing I had to do was put a new battery in it. I then was able to scan it for codes. 2 codes popped up P0603 and P062F. However the symptoms while driving are exactly what is described in those video. This POS JATCO CVT tranny is whining, the RPM's are at idle while pushing the accelerator pedal. No throttle response. If you let up off the pedal the transmission the car is moving based on the idle speed being at about 1500 RPM's . To think a Brake Switch can wreak this much havoc is insane and Nissan INC needs to pony up and recall all these models that needs these brake switches and relays replaced. Its bad enough the transmissions are shotty crap that barely meets government standards now there's this issue that seems to be common place with hundreds of thousands Nissan car owners. Where's the NHTSA with this issue and when is this issue going to be rectified??? There's enough Nissan car owners Altima , Versa,Note,Sentra,Maxima, Rogue to get Nissan to recall these models and EAT THE COST of these repairs!! This is a DANGEROUS problem that people are suffering with that SCREAMS MALICIOUS on Nissan's behalf! There's power in numbers and I say let the Recall campaign begin!!! Enough is Enough! How many people have been told they need to replace their transmission when the main culprit is this Brake Relay and Switches!? How many Nissan owners are going to get seriously hurt or killed because they're driving around with this problem. THERE ARE OPTIONS. NISSAN INC address these issues or we can find a few attorneys who take on automakers who fail their customers!
You are brilliant at the way you go at things
Top class fault finding. Great video
Nice process. If you unplugged one of the sensors and scanned the ecu it would give you a code for sensors 1 or 2. I had a nissan 10 years ago that went into limp mode because 2 of the 3 break lights were blown.
Nice catch! I’ve had one of these on a Ford. Found BOA Brake Over Acceleration pid and verified brake switch was sticking on and Pcm was cutting out throttle.
Thanks for the info
Best mechanic video ever
Your videos are MONEY. Thanks for sharing.
Nissan always had weak cvt transmission's after 2007 model year made by jatco they are built bad they use 2 clutches with metal rubber band older transmission used to have clutches way better design I know all newer cars are going to cvt but Toyota and Honda never seen them go bad great diagnosis
This is exactly what is happening with my maxima. Going to check the same stuff because I've looked at nearly everything else.
Always is nice to watch your videos. Thanks for so nice work. 👍
Man, you are the best in everything. Thank you so much
Thank you so much for the video I have the same problem with my car and just wanted to update you that after replacing the relay I drove the car for a week absolutely no more intermittent problems so my problems is fixed
What year was your car? Was it an Altima ? I have an 09' that's doing this.
@@Artillery-Vet same here,2009 Altima,did you fix the problem?
@Greg k No. I'm gonna schedule a full service Trans Oil change where they drop the pan, clean out the metal shavings that get stuck on a magnet. I've heard adding an extra oil cooler can help and replacing the Trans valve body helps this issue too
all your videos are awesome. i appreciate your hard work editing. im not a mechanic but entertaining to see your thought process. im in massachusettts near boston.
Thanks for stopping by!
This is something I would not have been able to find without consulting TSBs or calling up diagnosticians to see if they've seen this problem before.
My 2015 Altima was doing the same thing on hot days. When I came to a stop it would take 5 seconds for the car to car even with the accelerator to function. I changed every sensor including both brake switches. It turned out to be bad transmission fluid. The factory ns2 fluid is crap. I changed it with amsoil cvt fluid and haven’t had a problem in over a year now.
I guess that is why there has been so many CVT problems because of the factory ns2 fluid probably have destroyed so many CVTS with angry 😠 customers guess Nissan dealers need switch over to Amsoil CVT fluid instead.
Great lesson like everytime you post something
This sounds like my exact issue with my 2016 versa note, thank you so much I will immediately go give these a shot!
I like how you go fully in depth all though you probably already know/knew it was the brake switch.
thank you… i have the same issues and will try to fix this on my own now
Man, I've got a similar issue with my 2007 Nissan Altima standard 4 cylinder. I just bought a Hitachi throttle body w/gasket from Amazon for an amazing price, but now, going to send it back to them to get a brake relay and work backwords. It only does this intermittently and at lower speeds during acceleration. On the highway I still get good performance. A couple of years ago I thought it might be my transmission (CVT) going out so in my desperation had my mechanic remove it from the car and send it to a Nissan dealer's shop costing me about $3300. Nissan wants to do all CVT transmissions and doesn't support local shops doing any of the work on them. It seemed fine for a while, but not sure what they did but replace the internal belt with the upgraded kevlar. It was making a whining noise. Anyway, thanks for this input and I've just subscribed to your channel for more tips!
David 😊
Thank you. My Altima has started to do the dame lately. I will get it checked.
Got it fixed ??
Hey, I watch a lot of your videos and am glad I do. My relative is having the same problem and is trying to find which bake light relay is the culprit in which location. Thanks again.👍👍👍
There is a service bulletin for eliminating the brake switch relay, for this exact concern. Never is the brake switch, it is always the relay.
Can I get the link?
Just fixed one just like this. Aftermarket floor mat would slide forward crumple up in brake pedal area. So if your not using factory floor mats cut hole in hook area of original mat hold down hooks. This will keep mat from sliding forward into brake switches area causing error.
Very thorough i like. 🙏🏿 thank you for your diagnosis. helped me to understand a little more
Thanks bro! Great video. It was relevent for my 2017 pathfinder too. The relay for me is under the hood drivers side.
Didn't see that coming, u would expect it to throw a brake corellation code at least, But seems like Nissans aren't really smart cars after all.
As I just recently realized they don't even have cam crank correlation codes such as P0016 and P0018 only vvt codes such P0011 and P0021, Or maybe I am just wrong.
Top notch diag as always Eric, Thanks a lot.
Your videos are always well done.
Thanks bro, I have a 2019 Nissan Sentra and the symptoms your explaining are similar to mine. I hope it's not the transmission and really just a brake switch relay! Thanks for the info! It could help me out 😊
What was the outcome?