Hi there. Unfortunately one of my phasers got detached from the timing chain when I was trying to connect it back to the exhaust cam and made the mistake to marked the grove and chain with black magic marker cuz I didn’t have yellow paint at the time, so my question is… how can I know that everything will be ok after aligning all the marks with the phaser and cams with the chain with no tension and put the chain back with no marks on it? Is anything that I can do to check that everything works good before I turn the engine on? Thanks for your advice and awesome video
@@pedromanzini7368 because you didn’t move the position of the crankshaft, never touch the crankshaft doing this procedure after the chain has been removed, for the Cams you can count the teeth on the chain between the phasers timing marks. does the other side line up? Compare distance with the other side. Engine builders can look at a valvetrain and determine this just by knowing what piston on that side is at TDC in relation to valve location. This would indicate correct positioning and timing of the cam. If not possible, worst case senerio is the timing cover will have to be removed and start over. What makes you comfortable?
@@ATEMOFFROAD this my first time doing this and I been watching a lot of videos and they all have a different style of doing this job. The van is at my friends house for two weeks already now and I been running with some issues with broken screws and wrong part delivered. I’m afraid that going deep into timing chain cover removal is going to be too much for my experience with this engine. I’m from Cuba and I used to work on old school chevys. But thanks for your advice, have a blessed weekend
I’m probably in deep trouble but only one phaser got detached from chain and I never rotated the crankshaft but I did wiggle the camshaft a little bit in order to connect the phaser back in the position that it was … my concern is the markings that I did are gone.
Some information from my dad who used to work in Chrysler's warranty department before he passed. The reason these engines are having failing rocker arms in years before 2019 is because the engines were originally designed for 30 weight oil and then were back spec'ed to 20 weight oils because of CAFE fuel economy standards. The problem is that 20 weight oils have a lower HTHS (High Temperature High Sheer) rating which means that there is less ability for the oil to keep parts separated under high load areas of the engines such as in the needle bearings used in these earlier rocker arms before they were switched to a solid large pin (no needle bearing) design in late 2019. You can buy these rocker arms. The MOPAR Part numbers end in AH. Anything earlier than this will still have the needle bearings and not the solid pin. A work around if your engine is lower mileage and not ticking is to choose a 30 weight oil (which the owners manual says you can use) which has as high of a HTHS rating as possible. 30 weight oils will be 2.9 or higher. Amsoil XL for example is the highest I've found at 3.3 HTHS. (Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Engines specify a minimum of 3.5 HTHS for cam loading for this reason) In a 20wt oil it's 2.6 minimum and this is too low to protect these needle bearings. The other thing that you can do to ensure you don't suffer from issues is to not idle your engine too long (lack of oil flow to the top part of the engine). You don't have to take my word for it, but it's an easy change to make to ensure you don't suffer from this in your 2019 and previous Dodge Caravan, Journey or Jeeps that don't use the PUG Gen 3 engines as found in things like the Grand Cherokee, RAM pick-ups, Dodge Durango's (not Promasters or Chargers), These engines with the PUG 3 design have the Variable Vale Lift and use a different Rocker Arm design to accommodate the VVL system and don't suffer from this same problem.
@@ttampi Most engines don't suffer this fate. The reason it seems like a big problem is because there is already 12 million PentaStars produced to date and the 2% failure rate is a lot of engines because there are so many. But that means 98% are just fine. So proper timely maintenance with oil changes is all you need. Don't go past 5,000 miles
@@CedroCronwow, ok. That was some good knowledge dropped here. I have a 2012 JK and it calls for 5w30. I have 139k miles on it now and it hasn't had these rockers go south yet. I always suspected that the difference between the oil weight might have been a factor. I am the 2nd owner and bought it in 2017 with 75k miles on the odometer. Ever since I have owned it I have always used full synthetic oil such as Pennzoil Platinum or Liqui Moly when changing the oil. The only major issue I've had was a head gasket go bad and of course the oil cooler but the latter was easy enough to replace. Thanks for the info.
This video is by far one of the best attention to details on taking things off of an engine! For those of us who are backyard mechanics who don't do these things very often and for the rocker arm issue, the very first time, it is nice to have someone who has done this before and show us newbies how it's done correctly!!! I know there are many out there, including me, who try to do something for the very first time only to break something along the way or to drop a fastener, nut, bolt, washer, clip down the engine gap to somewhere you'll never be able to retrieve it from!!! 👍👍👍
Thanks for this detailed, yet still understandable video for someone that's not a professional mechanic. Got bank 2 done in about 8 hours this weekend and eliminated the worst of the ticking noise after finding one rocker arm that was really bad. Still hearing some ticking and will tackle bank 1 next weekend. Probably another bad rocker arm on that side. Thanks! Work was on a 2014 Jeep Wrangler with 142k miles.
Real great video. You showed us how to do it with and without special tools. Very detailed and overall clear. My 2015 Chrysler 300 just started ticking a couple days ago. I stopped driving it so I don’t chew up the lobes on the cams. I replaced just the rocker arms minus the lifters and VOILA!!! Ticking is gone!!!!
th-cam.com/users/shortswKZIJYA_sgE?si=6b8hR2wdaB8CwXDG I used a combination of your method and this guys method. Didn’t have to mess with timing chain. Just popped off the rocker arms and turned the engine to get to the rest.
I have a 2014 Jeep Wrangler Sport that I bought new and now have over 90,000 miles on it. I’ve been changing the oil myself every 5,000 miles and I only use Mobil 1 in it. My Jeep still runs like new.
My 2012 JK so far has 120 some odd thousand trouble free miles other than the defective head that was replaced at 22 thousand back in 2014. im going to continue to stay on top of routine maintenance and hope for the best. Oh yeah, Great video.
What a major hunk of crap of jeep if it needs this work done at 79k miles, how dare them the prices they charge for new jeeps with this kind of reliability and rusting issues. Great video.
Astonishing quality work. I don't know of any shop or dealership around me that I would trust to do this to my Jeep. I think if I ever need to have this done I will just do a Hemi Swap. Thank you for your attention to detail.
Thank you for the video. My 13 JK would show code P0369 and go into limp mode after traction control light would come on. I had a galley bolt that came completely out and luckily it made its way to the top of the head with no damage. Found out when I replaced the cam phase sensors and saw the bolt laying there at the top of the head, I about crapped my pants.Took all day to disassemble and put that bolt back in with loctite and reassemble, no fun, but better than paying someone else.
I'm surprised that these repairs are required so early in the engines life... Unlike the old might 4 ltr. I would be disappointed owning a late model vehicle and having to do these repairs. I know there are a lot of owners with JK/JL's with no issues but the reliability issues is a concern. That's why IMO is a XJ OR TJ. But your videos are very informative and I enjoy watching them.👍🇦🇺🚙
Absolutely disappointed I change oil ever 3k so its definitely inferior parts. So it’s not TJ or XJ love, but I still love it lol I’m confident I can get another 80k of smiles out of it, and just glad this is over for sometime now. The tune up was due anyway and I’m just glad to have found only one rocker arm bad on bank 2. I also found all 4 oil galley bolts loose and one almost falling out. 😬 This could have been devastating if I waited too long to correct them. Thanks for watching buddy 🍻
Excellent job. I took mine to the local Dodge dealership to have the lifters and rockers done @ 32K miles. Warrenty. Sadly I don't believe that they actually did the job. But I got what I paid for. Nothing😢
Excellent video I was just about to complete it and I finished the work myself on just one side in barely 2 hours. Great job. Great video. I love the shortcut.
Thank you sir. Im going to purchase the tool and get ready for two trucks coming in for the repairs. I didn't have the tool. so i had to decline the repair. I had other work that needed my attention anyway. Again im confident that i can do the repairs because of you Sir. The fella told me. Cost from Dodge dealership on a V6 is $2150. For one side. The reason is Dodge is installing new cams. New lifters and rocker arms.
Likewise for me , they spun out by hand with ease - really scary stuff. Thanks for this video - between the worn rocker arms and leaky oil reservoir, I'd be struggling right now without your tutorials. Keep up the excellent work!
Just bought my 2015 with 115k miles on it and have put about 3K on it and it just started ticking. Would you suggest doing oil cooler when I’m in there doing rockers? Seems like the hard part is getting everything out of the way to get to actual repair. Great video!
It’s hard to say without history on the jeep, but it makes sense to replace those while you are there, yes. Rockers and oil cooler housing o rings can fail at any moment. You replace one rocker and another one fails. I would assume someone has already been in there to repair those hence the mileage, but it’s hard to tell. You will have to try and make up that decision yourself. Maybe call the dealership and ask?
U need the Baxter spin on oil filter adapter...the oil cooler will just be better won't fix the oiling issue. The adapter has a check valve to hold oil in the filter and cooler to prevent dry starts.
This is interesting at 79k mileage on pentestar engine. I understand changing the rockers and lifter since they may have wear and up graded. On high mileage vehicles the phaser may stick.Nice fix ,didn’t hear the ticking noise on startup
Really great video Dustin! So well done and complete step by step. You did an excellent job of explaining the whole process, really impressive! If you are headed to OX PNW look for me up there!
Thank you , I’d love to go up but my schedule just doesn’t work out this year , I ended up having this week and weekend off from work and not the next. Ugh 😩 I hope you have a great time. Looks to be a awesome line up. 🍻
The pentastar engines have been around 13 years now and over 10 million are used in several vehicle applications. Percentage wise the failure rate is low and they are considered reliable. They have been updated over the years for some common problems like all manufacturers do. If I’m not mistaken 2016 was the last valvetrain update addressing the “ticking” noise. Good video explaining how to address the issue in a older Jeep.
Where are these reliable ones?? 😅 I've had a 2012 jk and a 2015 Rubicon jk and a 2015 grand Cherokee and now a 2021 Mojave gladiator and everyone of them has failed from valves and cams to head gaskets on top of all the other issues jeeps have. all under 60000km every single one the radiator failed too
@@itsmountainwithanm please tell me you're leasing those vehicles.... If I were in your shoes I would've never been a return customer. My JK is my last Jeep. My torque converter went 6 months after the warranty expired.
@@Wezi427 LoL 😂 the heart loves what it loves ..I have owned jeeps most of my life.they turned to shit when they tried to market them to every day people by making them more modern...I miss my TJ and my yj ..I'm at the point with vehicles better the devil you know....don't think my wife is gonna let me buy anymore though 😂
@@itsmountainwithanm a glutton for punishment😉, but seriously I'm done with Jeep. Especially that they are now pushing hard on EVs, they've always had issues with electrical Gremlins. I wish you luck
Nice video , very very useful... I wonder how similar the work would be on my Promaster 2014? The engine seems to be align in a different, more difficult way to access.
Well, I must be the first checking for price for this type of work. As a wrangler owner. If I ever have this issue how much do I have to pay for this? I understand location, quality parts and other factors must be considered. I am just trying to understand what I should expect. Also, forgive me If I offend with my question. I did not mean it to go that way. Last but not least, your commitment to edit the video while you show the process depicts the mastery and passion you have for this. Truly respectable and admirable. I am a fan now.
Thank you 🙏 as for the work it all depends on the level of repair. Some people just replace the bad rocker arm 20 dollars and they are on the way. Others replace them all including lifter and tuneup for everything close to 1k in parts and 1k or more in labor. I could be a bit off since location is a big factor in the over cost of this job. Plan for a good 10 hours , seasoned mechanic maybe 6-8. Thanks for watching 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD I don't know about all, I have a 2008 Highlander with 247,000 miles, I change the oil every 5,000 miles with full synthetic oil and have no issues. Does not burn any oil between changes. I just noticed that I might need a wheel bearing, that's not bad considering the mileage. Other than that the engine is extremely quiet.
@@ATEMOFFROAD Also, some have had chatter on first start ups due to cam issues, I never had that problem. I attribute it to using fully synthetic oil every 5000 miles.
@@frankbiz we are talking about newer cars in general 2014 any up! They are all experiencing issues in some way! That highlander is definitely a keeper. Good job on the maintenance 🍻
I’m on the same repair right now a 2013 charger. The first rocker arm failed at 110,000 miles at cylinder #5 right bank back rear in about 2017. Replaced that 1 rocker and all has been good until about 2 weeks ago tick,tick. 2023 and the car now has 247,000 and #1 cylinder intake rocker trashed along with lobe, .040 off top of lobe. So I’m replacing all rockers along with both cams on right bank. Also #1 cylinder exhaust cam and rollers have some blotches on them. I have been running synthetic oil since 1st oil change started with mobil1 until 45k, then castrol to 150k and since 150k been running amsoil. I would like to think running the syn oil has helped to keep the motor healthy for this whole time. I would like to see a low mile motor from a yard pulled and the rollers inspected. I don’t think it’s a roller issue and it seem most of the youtube motors seem to have a high failure rate with the right bank and maybe the motor has an oiling issue. Maybe Chrysler pointing a finger at a supplier is easier than an engineering fail.
Sound like you are doing something right. Regardless of the failure. I’m Curious to know if you have maintained the 5w20 weight? I have always used mobile 1 and valavoline full synthetic. I frequently change the oil between 3-4k miles. why under the covers the engine is so clean. My take on the oiling is issues with hot spots as the main contributing factor from long periods of time at idle. Food Drive thrus, offroading (low rpm) and stop go traffic all accumulate wear a in TIME. (Not mileage). This is why I say it’s safer to change oil at earlier intervals. For example if your taking a day trip offroading you may have 8 hours on the engine that day but only 50 miles on the dash. How does one calculate the differences from what the service manual recommends?
Thank you so much just ran into a ticking issue on my 2015 jk this video definitely is the best I’ve watched many and now I’m confident enough to do this repair in my garage 🔥
155K on my 13 JK with no ticking yet but I'm ready. 10W-30 synthetic every 4K since new and drive it like I stole it. Seen them go in the 50K's and last a little past 200K.
Great video!! I have a question though. Why replace the cams and phasers on one side and not the other? Maybe I missed the diagnoses in the video that made you decide to do this.
The tone wheels on those cams were damaged, ( i do cover that part in some shorts) thats beside the point of this video, replacing lash adjusters and rockers. One way is to “remove” the cams for repair. I show two ways to do it. Thanks for watching
Great video bro! I have a 23 JL and changed my oil at 1000 after break in to remove break in wear particles and then again at 5000 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum full synthetic Chrysler spec MS-6395 and FraM Titanium and Purolator BOSS filter I hope she lasts a long time. The only thing I can do is proper maintenance. Thought about doing the Baxter spin on filter adaptor. I tried to make sure she was broken in properly. I don't use the start Stop and give her nice revs regularly. I made sure the filter cap O ring was placed in the proper groove and NOT overtighten which can crush the cartridge filter and crack the plastic oil filter housing.... I hope she does well bc after all these years without a license I can drive with the wind in my hair with the top, doors, and windows off. Life is good at the moment, I just hope she does well 🥹
I have 150,000 on my 2015 JKU (6sp manual)and have had no major issues yet other than routine maintenance, am going to have to change the oil cooler it just started leaking. I have always used AMSOIL and changed at 5 to 6 thousand intervals. Thanks for this video I’m sure at some point I’m gonna have to do the tappets or came chains. I don’t plan on getting rid of it any time soon, it’s paid off lol. Would it be wise to go to 30W oil given my mileage. Thanks Derek -machine repairman at Chrysler Kokomo transmission
Very nice, and great job on the maintenance, unfortunately I bought my jeep used so you know how that goes. Great tips too. Thanks for watching I appreciate it. 🍻
Thank you , did replace it not long before this here’s the video 🍻Jeep Wrangler JK JKU - Oil Cooler Filter Housing Replacement 3.6L Pentastar Doorman 926-876 th-cam.com/video/0mtiiDK_LYQ/w-d-xo.html
Just did a cam replacement in my moms chrysler town and country coming in at 205k miles. Only one rocker was bad on the front side and wiped a cam lobe out on the exchaust side then the back side had three bad rockers but caught them in time before the cam got completely destroyed and the rest of the rockers seem tight with little too no play in them "yet." Hopefully we can get another 100k out of it before something more major happens too the engine.
I had to do both banks a few weeks apart, and you could see a little wear right on the edge of the cam lobe, but not where the roller contacts it so I didn't replace them
Awesome video, I have a wrangler 2018, it ticks for a little bit after been parked at cold startups...also is hell trying to jump start one if your battery ever djes on you. Had to to get mine towed to the dealer. Is there a special secret to jump start one successfully??
Yeah you must have a really dead battery , those mopar batteries do that. As far as the tick it’s by design before starting the jeep you can prime the oil pressure system by holding down the gas pedal while starting the jeep for 3 seconds. This will make the jeep not start but prime the system once the engine stop turning over start the engine and your good to go. 🍻
When you are putting your valve covers back on, you should use Synthetic Oil to lubricate the O-ring style gasket. Just because your valve cover is plastic does NOT mean the seal doesn't need lubrication to seal permanently. Important note: NEVER put any seal in any machine DRY, that is where cover leaks come from. I used to work in a Hydraulic sh0p, our go-to Pro tip for sealing any gasket, O-ring type seals that are prone to leaking or are simply old and the surfaces are worn is: we would use a high quality Synthetic Grease to wipe on the seal to guarantee a good seal with NO leaks or seeping. The grease trick works on Covers, shafts, axles, rams, motors and any machines experiencing pressures of upward of 3000 psi of Oil pressure. It really works. Or if you don't believe me ignore this tip, and watch your Jeep drip oil on the driveway in 6 months. The real reason these Cam phasers and roller rockers fail is because the owners are cheaping out on their choice of Motor Oil, use the highest quality of motor Oil you can get; and your engine will go a lot further before you need a tear down. I refuse to use brands like Castrol Sludge, Valvoline, Quaker Mistake the list goes on. The only brands I would use would be as follows, Amsoil, Luqui-Moly or Motul. I do an engine flush every Oil change to wash the sludge out, then Amsoil with the best filter money can buy. If it is an engine that you push to extremes working the motor to the max for long periods like hauling heavy loads through the mountains for 6 hours at a time, then when you are doing all that work on the top, install a Melling High Volume Oil pump. If you push your 4x4 or truck to it's max capacity every day, you need a Melling, coupled with the best Motor Oil and you WILL get long life from your engine, especially these Cam phaser engines or interference motors. I used to work in an engine rebuilding facility and the #1 reason for engine failure today IS, as it has always been: Lack of lubrication.
Excellent video, man! Thank you! 🙏 Very descriptive & easy to listen to. I really appreciate you making my life easier by passing along your knowledge via this video! I do have a question, however, as I'm putting my gaskets on my valve cover - does the camshaft gasket sit flush against the cover or does it have some flexibility for inserting the camshaft sensor? Thanks in advance! Also, on the driver side when you had all of the cam caps off, did you pry up on the cam phaser? I don't think you included that part in the video & I'm struggling to get the front 2 (front of motor if facing the vehicle) lifters out. Thanks again!
Yes there is some flexibility as you tighten down the sensors the gaskets should seal. Yes I pryed on the phasers oil control bolt it’s tough a a bit nerve racking but definitely doable take your time. I show that on the first cam the intake. 🍻
@ATEMOFFROAD thanks for the response! I ended up getting it! & nerve racking is an understatement when it's your first time "in there" ha! Great stuff again! You've helped A LOT of people, my man! You're more than appreciated! Thanks again!!!
Few things to speed things up.. You can do this whole job without losing coolant and needing to rebleed by simply pulling the coolant lines into the valley out of the way.. No need to take the phaser sensors off the valve cover, it'll come off with them in place. If you're only doing rockers you can do all 24 rockers the way you did the driver side. This is nice if you're just going after one single ticking rocker to be cheap. The pcv valve bolts are easy to get with one of the tiny ratchets that take 1/4 hex bits. Oreillys has a nice one. Be careful torqueing the cam cap bolts while they're wet with oil, they won't click a torque wrench and strip out or snap. If you don't remove the cam If you place the rear most cam lobe down you can do all the rockers without having to rotate the cam inbetween. If you're only going after the one bad one, its almost always the number 5 intake rockers, but I've seen them in almost every spot.
Good tips especially the magnets, no need to remove those , I did because I had a new valve cover gasket set so I was already there. The coolant hardline too, if you can do it without removing good on you. I seen no other way but to totally remove to remove the cover. 🤷♂️🍻
Great video, I've got a 2021 Gladiator with 63k and its always had a little ticking noise but in the last couple months its gotten worse, to the point it sounds like there's no oil in the engine at start up, it gets better after it warms up but is still louder than it was. Did you replace those cam phasers on the passenger side with new ones? What brand would you recommend and do you think all four should just be replaced since I'm going to be in there anyway? Im getting the parts list together for what im going to need to do this, definitely looks like a long weekend job.
Yes both new phasers , start thinking about replacing those around 80-100k mopar is a good brand for those, and replacing all 4 is a good idea. A good place for parts is rock auto, I bought everything from there and the savings is huge. Thanks for watching 🍻
Bro i can not belive your having problem in the newer JL model jeep, i though they fix them with the recall 2011 to 2018 JEEP jk, i guess not, that kinda of sad, make sure you document that and call jeep cause i'm sure you are not the only one.
Yeah that pcv is the worst and the coolest design I’ve ever seen 🤣 a pain to remove and install ,but sorta a cool in design because how it works as part of the camshaft. The black round drum on the end of the cam is a centrifuge. 🍻
Great video. Quick question, the sound on first start up at the end (I know that’s normal after the repair) is a dulled down version of the rattle on start up I’m getting with mine. To me it sounds like the cam phaser, thoughts? And tips on figuring out which bank the loud phaser would be on? Stethoscope? Would there be good data to watch to sus out the suspect phaser?
@@lucashunter6163 yep that’s totally normal with these engines at cold start, it’s called cam phaser chatter due to low oil pressure. As soon as the oil pressure is up the chatter goes away. Doesn’t happen every time usually after the Jeep sits for 30+ minutes or longer when the oil pressure has time to drop and returns back to the oil sump. If your mileage is high it could also indicate loose timing chains and worn guides. A stethoscope will help find which bank, usually the noise gets louder as the engine warms up is a bad rocker arm. You can also check for metal shavings in your oil filter that is a good indicator of failed rockers. This is why I do my own oil changes. Jeeps TICKING Time Bomb 3.6 Pentastar Engine - Metal Shavings Found In OIL Filter th-cam.com/users/shorts43e397qe1M0?feature=share
Did you by chance happen to do the oil cooler earlier? Would have been good idea to replace it with everything that far torn down. Lost a lifter at about 18k and took out a cam in an 18 Pacifica. Making me think I should do this when when I do the oil cooler. Plus valve cover is leaking. It runs great when it runs but too many problems with it to convince me to buy another one. They are also known to blow head gaskets too 🙄
Hey bro just want to inform you you did not have to take the cams out and all that to change the lifters you could have reached down in there with a screwdriver and popped them out just like on the dodgers that have the hemi tick you can reach right down in there with a screwdriver as long as the valve covers off and pop the lifters and the rockers off change both of them
Really great information! I think I need to do this to my 2017 WK2... Did you have any codes pop up afterwards? Did you have to perform a "timing relearn" afterwards?
My 19 Cherokee 2.0 is in the shop now for a very similar sound. It rattles, or "ticks" when I sit with my foot on the brake in R or D. It goes away in P or N. Though I was told the sound is in the lower end. Just out of warranty at 70k miles. Was told I need an engine.
Hey ATEM, my wife has a 2013, basically everything you did on this jeep has just been done to hers. All 24 rockers, lifters, new exhaust and intake cam on passenger side, new phasers on passenger side, new cam sensor, pcv... runs fine but now we have a P0369 code that won't go away, come on direct after starting..
@@richardhopson1585it’s recommended it not necessary, did you find anything in the wiring? Here’s the procedure. How’s oil pressure? I have a diagnostic procedure I can share with you but it would have to be through email. ATEMOFFROAD@gamil.com
I've gone through the wiring as much as I can, replaced the cam sensor harness and both exhaust and intake vvt solenoid harness. New cam and crank sensor, I can feel the engine idle alittle rough bit ita not real bad. The check engine and abs comes on several seconds after starting. The guy we had work on the jeep said he pulled both oil gally bolts, cleaned them and applied lock tight.. im thinking about installing new ones just in case but I can't find the part number for them.
Hey man great video, you gained a sub! I have a 2018 jeep grand cherokee throwing P000A with 97,000 miles. Kind of has a gravely crackling noise under medium load in 6th gear. It doesn't have any lifter tick. Do you think a bad phaser could be throwing this code? Please help! Much appreciated!
@atemoffroad yes it is the 8 speed. Yesterday it was having a hard time maintaining 75mph uphill on cruise, would drop down to 72 and take a second to get back to 75.
I had a rocker arm go bad on my 2011 durango with the 3.6 with 110k miles.check engine light came on and off from 120k-140k miles till i finally decided to tear into the moter and find the issue.ended up changing all the rocker arms and a cam shaft but im ar 170k miles with no issues no
Yes 3 reasons , mopar recommends that they get replaced around 80-100k miles . And For this video I wanted to add how to test for a bad phaser. And for that I was able to show what a good phaser tests like for this video. lastly, i herd some chatter on bank 1 during cold start prior to the repairs, I was already there and the cams needed to be removed for the demo so I replaced them. The spring tension in them were good. The chatter at cold start I believe is the oiling system bleeds off pressure and you get the momentary chatter at cold start once the pressure is up the chatter goes away.
If mopar recommends replacing the cam phasers at 80-100k miles I'm not sure why you didn't replace all of them? In the video you didn't show how to test for a bad phaser or a good phaser. If not replacing the cam phazers can you replace the rockers and lifts the same way as you did on the drivers side? @@ATEMOFFROAD
Every manufacturer including Toyota has issues. I recently had a 23 Tacoma with 16k miles I drove for a few weeks and was shocked at how loud that engine is. It makes the Jeep's sound quiet. There isn't literally a single engine out there that doesn't have some type of "known" issue.
@@jayandtonit’s quiet because it’s not working lol American cars wonder why nobody like them becuase they are shit now, most of these jeeps have plastic parts that are vital don’t hate the game hate the cheap manufacturing
Hey Bud, I have a 2015 jk with 115k miles. Motor just started ticking and will replace rockers and lifters ASAP. Should cam phasers be replaced and if so does it consist of 2 identical e intake and 2 identical exhaust phasers. Thanks in advance Brother😊
Yes both sides intake and exhaust are the same and it’s recommended to replace at 89-100k. Rockauto.com is a good place to index all the parts needed to make the repairs. Mopar dealer as well . 🍻
I have a 2014 Grand Cherokee, and while it’s 10 years old, it only has 29k miles on it because I mostly drive my other vehicle. The other day I was over at my mom’s place to jump her vehicle using my GC, and I noticed the classic ticking of broken rockers. I cannot believe it has this problem with less than 30k on it!!! So angry and bummed out, and I just don’t have any time to do the repairs myself. This honestly makes me never want to buy another Jeep product even though I know their rocker design has improved.😒
Yeah I totally understand, I’d be broken if I had to take the jeep to someone els for repairs. Parts and labor are a killer right now. Good luck and thanks for watching 🍻
Got 307,603 miles on my 2013 jk.been getting cam shaft codes beginning two yrs ago. More frequently when i push tue engine hard especially when trying to pass goofballs on the road who dont know what speed they wanna go. Question is, u do a cam shaft relearn after this? I feel like its mix bag with this engine and people , some have horrible experiences with these...but i deff got my moneys worth. I think if u take care of this engine..it can last.
It’s a good idea, but I don’t relearn every time, unless necessary. It’s usually if codes are involved. And way to go on the mileage, 👏 I’ve seen some very well kept jks with high mileage and I personally won’t let my jku go because, so I’m planning for 300k too 😅
@@maratglotser6918, i did drop them down in the head but used a magnet to get them. Be careful with magnets around these engines. Never touch the camshafts with them. 🍻
Just curious as to why not change out the other two phasers? It's a bit of work to get to them and you were already in there. Looking at buying a 2015 and I'm a bit nervous with what I've heard about these v6 engines.
I’m just not ready to change them yet, they are still good actually that side is easier when the time comes. I will probably do everything again once the timing chains and guides are due. It’s coming up. 🍻
Hello sir I went on the same tiking problem on my jeep jk and I adventure in and follow your video to replace the lifters and the rocker arms also I had to replace 2 of the cams because they are worn pretty bad but now I have 2 codes and no power at all the codes are P0016 and P0300 do you know any advice for that ones? I really appreciate the video and you explain very well that’s why I get the encouraging and do it my self thank you very much!!!
Would the Baxter performance cartridge to screw on oil filter adapter prevent this issue in the future? I'm about to do this same repair on my '16 JKU.
@@ATEMOFFROAD Yes Sir Good Video & Work But It's EPA JUNK Never Going To Buy NEW Again 1999 F350 7.3 For Life Work SO Good With OUT EPA like 1969 lat year Of Good Cars & 1999 Last Year Of Good Diesels Engines
Ive heard rumors that these engines are bad. I went to the chrysler jeep dodge ram dealership to look at the new grand cherokees and the pentastar engines are now in all models ranging from the jeep wrangler, ram 1500 and even the grand cherokees.
They are. It's all over the Internet. Same with the Hemi. Roller lifter failures are common. They won't stand behind it if you're out of warranty. Run! Thank me later. I really like the vehicles but the company is unethical as hec. Lemon buy backs are common with these too. Grand Cherokee especially. My friends brand new Gladiator was in the shop for 3 months. He had jaur bought it new .
Yeah that’s a generic code for timing, camshaft position sensor detects out of normalcy. But there are many variables here to consider as the phaser spring can fail, I showed how to test for that, Oil pressure is a big deal, phasers will not work properly if loss of pressure, possible cause Is the oil galley bolts can fall out the head and loose oil pressure that way. Is the vehicle in traction control mode? any other faults?. has someone recently worked on this engine? Why do you suspect a bad phaser? How many miles?
@@ATEMOFFROAD the car has 160k km . I suspect the phasers because u mention the trac control light is on the dash i think mayb its in (limp mode) too, it wouldnt go drive pass 70km sometimes. Anyways ill open the valve cover and investigate the phasers.
@@4x4AUTOBOT good idea you can check them without removing the entire cover. Just pull off the exhaust and intake. Front magnets can take a mirror and check for missing galley bolts and you’ll have an open window for a socket to check the cam phasers.
I don't understand how come you put those cam phasers in with no problems. Yeah I'm no mechanic but why is it that hard. I turned the cam far as possible, even turned the crank a lil bit to finally get it on. I've worked on a Lexus before and had no issues with the timing belt.😢
Thanks for watching y’all 🍻 Here’s the tool kit I used, it covers 2011 and up amzn.to/3F6s0Me
Sorry You Have To Work ON EPA Junk
Hi there. Unfortunately one of my phasers got detached from the timing chain when I was trying to connect it back to the exhaust cam and made the mistake to marked the grove and chain with black magic marker cuz I didn’t have yellow paint at the time, so my question is… how can I know that everything will be ok after aligning all the marks with the phaser and cams with the chain with no tension and put the chain back with no marks on it? Is anything that I can do to check that everything works good before I turn the engine on? Thanks for your advice and awesome video
@@pedromanzini7368 because you didn’t move the position of the crankshaft, never touch the crankshaft doing this procedure after the chain has been removed, for the Cams you can count the teeth on the chain between the phasers timing marks. does the other side line up? Compare distance with the other side. Engine builders can look at a valvetrain and determine this just by knowing what piston on that side is at TDC in relation to valve location. This would indicate correct positioning and timing of the cam. If not possible, worst case senerio is the timing cover will have to be removed and start over. What makes you comfortable?
@@ATEMOFFROAD this my first time doing this and I been watching a lot of videos and they all have a different style of doing this job. The van is at my friends house for two weeks already now and I been running with some issues with broken screws and wrong part delivered. I’m afraid that going deep into timing chain cover removal is going to be too much for my experience with this engine. I’m from Cuba and I used to work on old school chevys. But thanks for your advice, have a blessed weekend
I’m probably in deep trouble but only one phaser got detached from chain and I never rotated the crankshaft but I did wiggle the camshaft a little bit in order to connect the phaser back in the position that it was … my concern is the markings that I did are gone.
Some information from my dad who used to work in Chrysler's warranty department before he passed. The reason these engines are having failing rocker arms in years before 2019 is because the engines were originally designed for 30 weight oil and then were back spec'ed to 20 weight oils because of CAFE fuel economy standards. The problem is that 20 weight oils have a lower HTHS (High Temperature High Sheer) rating which means that there is less ability for the oil to keep parts separated under high load areas of the engines such as in the needle bearings used in these earlier rocker arms before they were switched to a solid large pin (no needle bearing) design in late 2019. You can buy these rocker arms. The MOPAR Part numbers end in AH. Anything earlier than this will still have the needle bearings and not the solid pin. A work around if your engine is lower mileage and not ticking is to choose a 30 weight oil (which the owners manual says you can use) which has as high of a HTHS rating as possible. 30 weight oils will be 2.9 or higher. Amsoil XL for example is the highest I've found at 3.3 HTHS. (Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Engines specify a minimum of 3.5 HTHS for cam loading for this reason) In a 20wt oil it's 2.6 minimum and this is too low to protect these needle bearings. The other thing that you can do to ensure you don't suffer from issues is to not idle your engine too long (lack of oil flow to the top part of the engine). You don't have to take my word for it, but it's an easy change to make to ensure you don't suffer from this in your 2019 and previous Dodge Caravan, Journey or Jeeps that don't use the PUG Gen 3 engines as found in things like the Grand Cherokee, RAM pick-ups, Dodge Durango's (not Promasters or Chargers), These engines with the PUG 3 design have the Variable Vale Lift and use a different Rocker Arm design to accommodate the VVL system and don't suffer from this same problem.
Thank you for sharing, I will consider this . Makes sense 🍻
Does 2017 Chrysler Pacifica minivan use gen 3 already and won't have this problem? Thank you.
@@ttampi Most engines don't suffer this fate. The reason it seems like a big problem is because there is already 12 million PentaStars produced to date and the 2% failure rate is a lot of engines because there are so many. But that means 98% are just fine. So proper timely maintenance with oil changes is all you need. Don't go past 5,000 miles
@@CedroCronwow, ok. That was some good knowledge dropped here. I have a 2012 JK and it calls for 5w30. I have 139k miles on it now and it hasn't had these rockers go south yet. I always suspected that the difference between the oil weight might have been a factor. I am the 2nd owner and bought it in 2017 with 75k miles on the odometer. Ever since I have owned it I have always used full synthetic oil such as Pennzoil Platinum or Liqui Moly when changing the oil. The only major issue I've had was a head gasket go bad and of course the oil cooler but the latter was easy enough to replace. Thanks for the info.
@@CedroCron thank you. I will do that ☺️
This video is by far one of the best attention to details on taking things off of an engine! For those of us who are backyard mechanics who don't do these things very often and for the rocker arm issue, the very first time, it is nice to have someone who has done this before and show us newbies how it's done correctly!!! I know there are many out there, including me, who try to do something for the very first time only to break something along the way or to drop a fastener, nut, bolt, washer, clip down the engine gap to somewhere you'll never be able to retrieve it from!!! 👍👍👍
Thanks for watching I appreciate it, I have some short videos that share some tips and things to look out for if you are doing this job. 🍻
Thanks for this detailed, yet still understandable video for someone that's not a professional mechanic. Got bank 2 done in about 8 hours this weekend and eliminated the worst of the ticking noise after finding one rocker arm that was really bad. Still hearing some ticking and will tackle bank 1 next weekend. Probably another bad rocker arm on that side. Thanks! Work was on a 2014 Jeep Wrangler with 142k miles.
Awesome, if I didn’t make a video I would have done the repairs just like you did. Thanks for watching 🍻
Real great video. You showed us how to do it with and without special tools. Very detailed and overall clear. My 2015 Chrysler 300 just started ticking a couple days ago. I stopped driving it so I don’t chew up the lobes on the cams. I replaced just the rocker arms minus the lifters and VOILA!!! Ticking is gone!!!!
th-cam.com/users/shortswKZIJYA_sgE?si=6b8hR2wdaB8CwXDG I used a combination of your method and this guys method. Didn’t have to mess with timing chain. Just popped off the rocker arms and turned the engine to get to the rest.
I have a 2014 Jeep Wrangler Sport that I bought new and now have over 90,000 miles on it. I’ve been changing the oil myself every 5,000 miles and I only use Mobil 1 in it. My Jeep still runs like new.
Very cool, must be a Wednesday built engine. 😅🙏🍻
My 2012 JK so far has 120 some odd thousand trouble free miles other than the defective head that was replaced at 22 thousand back in 2014. im going to continue to stay on top of routine maintenance and hope for the best.
Oh yeah, Great video.
I am glad I watched this. I decided to keep my 2004 unlimited with my 4.0 with 200,000 plus miles.
That’s a good decision 🍻
What a major hunk of crap of jeep if it needs this work done at 79k miles, how dare them the prices they charge for new jeeps with this kind of reliability and rusting issues. Great video.
Astonishing quality work. I don't know of any shop or dealership around me that I would trust to do this to my Jeep. I think if I ever need to have this done I will just do a Hemi Swap. Thank you for your attention to detail.
Thanks for watching, i appreciate it 🍻
i have a 2015 ram promaster just started ticking your video was very informative.looking for mechanic to fix this problem before it goes bad.
Thanks for watching 🍻
Thank you for the video. My 13 JK would show code P0369 and go into limp mode after traction control light would come on. I had a galley bolt that came completely out and luckily it made its way to the top of the head with no damage. Found out when I replaced the cam phase sensors and saw the bolt laying there at the top of the head, I about crapped my pants.Took all day to disassemble and put that bolt back in with loctite and reassemble, no fun, but better than paying someone else.
Nice save, as yess way better than paying someone els. Great job and attitude 🍻
I'm surprised that these repairs are required so early in the engines life... Unlike the old might 4 ltr. I would be disappointed owning a late model vehicle and having to do these repairs. I know there are a lot of owners with JK/JL's with no issues but the reliability issues is a concern. That's why IMO is a XJ OR TJ.
But your videos are very informative and I enjoy watching them.👍🇦🇺🚙
Absolutely disappointed I change oil ever 3k so its definitely inferior parts. So it’s not TJ or XJ love, but I still love it lol I’m confident I can get another 80k of smiles out of it, and just glad this is over for sometime now. The tune up was due anyway and I’m just glad to have found only one rocker arm bad on bank 2. I also found all 4 oil galley bolts loose and one almost falling out. 😬 This could have been devastating if I waited too long to correct them. Thanks for watching buddy 🍻
Factory rockers made in china I was told.
@@jimzacame3922 was it mopar warranty or 3rd party?
Excellent job. I took mine to the local Dodge dealership to have the lifters and rockers done @ 32K miles. Warrenty. Sadly I don't believe that they actually did the job. But I got what I paid for. Nothing😢
Always ask them for the old parts, tell them to put them in the box on the front passenger seat! You own the bad parts not them !
They are crooks like the rest of the dealers.
Excellent video I was just about to complete it and I finished the work myself on just one side in barely 2 hours. Great job. Great video. I love the shortcut.
Thanks for watching 🍻
Thank you sir. Im going to purchase the tool and get ready for two trucks coming in for the repairs. I didn't have the tool. so i had to decline the repair. I had other work that needed my attention anyway.
Again im confident that i can do the repairs because of you Sir.
The fella told me. Cost from Dodge dealership on a V6 is $2150. For one side.
The reason is Dodge is installing new cams. New lifters and rocker arms.
after finishing right valve cover i seen this video and disassembled again, both galley bolts were loose. thanks for the save
Nice Catch 🙌 thanks for sharing and watching. 🍻
Likewise for me , they spun out by hand with ease - really scary stuff. Thanks for this video - between the worn rocker arms and leaky oil reservoir, I'd be struggling right now without your tutorials. Keep up the excellent work!
Nice video. This is the one thing that stops me from buying a jeep is the engines.
I understand , FYI IMO the best year of the jk was 2015-18 rubicon of course. 🍻
Just bought my 2015 with 115k miles on it and have put about 3K on it and it just started ticking. Would you suggest doing oil cooler when I’m in there doing rockers? Seems like the hard part is getting everything out of the way to get to actual repair. Great video!
It’s hard to say without history on the jeep, but it makes sense to replace those while you are there, yes. Rockers and oil cooler housing o rings can fail at any moment. You replace one rocker and another one fails. I would assume someone has already been in there to repair those hence the mileage, but it’s hard to tell. You will have to try and make up that decision yourself. Maybe call the dealership and ask?
Yes replace plastic cooler with aftermarket aluminum one.
U need the Baxter spin on oil filter adapter...the oil cooler will just be better won't fix the oiling issue. The adapter has a check valve to hold oil in the filter and cooler to prevent dry starts.
This is interesting at 79k mileage on pentestar engine. I understand changing the rockers and lifter since they may have wear and up graded. On high mileage vehicles the phaser may stick.Nice fix ,didn’t hear the ticking noise on startup
Really great video Dustin! So well done and complete step by step. You did an excellent job of explaining the whole process, really impressive! If you are headed to OX PNW look for me up there!
Thank you , I’d love to go up but my schedule just doesn’t work out this year , I ended up having this week and weekend off from work and not the next. Ugh 😩 I hope you have a great time. Looks to be a awesome line up. 🍻
The pentastar engines have been around 13 years now and over 10 million are used in several vehicle applications. Percentage wise the failure rate is low and they are considered reliable. They have been updated over the years for some common problems like all manufacturers do. If I’m not mistaken 2016 was the last valvetrain update addressing the “ticking” noise. Good video explaining how to address the issue in a older Jeep.
I have a 2016 2dr JK. The torque converter failed with 47,000 and began to tick with 60k.
Where are these reliable ones?? 😅 I've had a 2012 jk and a 2015 Rubicon jk and a 2015 grand Cherokee and now a 2021 Mojave gladiator and everyone of them has failed from valves and cams to head gaskets on top of all the other issues jeeps have. all under 60000km every single one the radiator failed too
@@itsmountainwithanm please tell me you're leasing those vehicles....
If I were in your shoes I would've never been a return customer. My JK is my last Jeep. My torque converter went 6 months after the warranty expired.
@@Wezi427 LoL 😂 the heart loves what it loves ..I have owned jeeps most of my life.they turned to shit when they tried to market them to every day people by making them more modern...I miss my TJ and my yj ..I'm at the point with vehicles better the devil you know....don't think my wife is gonna let me buy anymore though 😂
@@itsmountainwithanm a glutton for punishment😉, but seriously I'm done with Jeep. Especially that they are now pushing hard on EVs, they've always had issues with electrical Gremlins. I wish you luck
1/4 pittsburg ratchet, harbor freight special. Did the trick for the pcv valve. Oh and the T25 bit
Nice 👍🏼
85,000 on my 2016 Wrangler. All good! Great video!
Very cool 😎
Nice video , very very useful... I wonder how similar the work would be on my Promaster 2014? The engine seems to be align in a different, more difficult way to access.
Well, I must be the first checking for price for this type of work. As a wrangler owner. If I ever have this issue how much do I have to pay for this? I understand location, quality parts and other factors must be considered. I am just trying to understand what I should expect. Also, forgive me If I offend with my question. I did not mean it to go that way. Last but not least, your commitment to edit the video while you show the process depicts the mastery and passion you have for this. Truly respectable and admirable. I am a fan now.
Thank you 🙏 as for the work it all depends on the level of repair. Some people just replace the bad rocker arm 20 dollars and they are on the way. Others replace them all including lifter and tuneup for everything close to 1k in parts and 1k or more in labor. I could be a bit off since location is a big factor in the over cost of this job. Plan for a good 10 hours , seasoned mechanic maybe 6-8. Thanks for watching 🍻
Great video ! The best advice is to stay clear from any Chrysler products. Endless money pits.
Its a trend that’s becoming popular amongst all Auto Makers 😫
@@ATEMOFFROAD I don't know about all, I have a 2008 Highlander with 247,000 miles, I change the oil every 5,000 miles with full synthetic oil and have no issues. Does not burn any oil between changes. I just noticed that I might need a wheel bearing, that's not bad considering the mileage. Other than that the engine is extremely quiet.
@@ATEMOFFROAD Also, some have had chatter on first start ups due to cam issues, I never had that problem. I attribute it to using fully synthetic oil every 5000 miles.
@@frankbiz yes the chatter is in the cam phasers priming at start up
@@frankbiz we are talking about newer cars in general 2014 any up! They are all experiencing issues in some way! That highlander is definitely a keeper. Good job on the maintenance 🍻
I’m on the same repair right now a 2013 charger. The first rocker arm failed at 110,000 miles at cylinder #5 right bank back rear in about 2017. Replaced that 1 rocker and all has been good until about 2 weeks ago tick,tick. 2023 and the car now has 247,000 and #1 cylinder intake rocker trashed along with lobe, .040 off top of lobe. So I’m replacing all rockers along with both cams on right bank. Also #1 cylinder exhaust cam and rollers have some blotches on them. I have been running synthetic oil since 1st oil change started with mobil1 until 45k, then castrol to 150k and since 150k been running amsoil. I would like to think running the syn oil has helped to keep the motor healthy for this whole time. I would like to see a low mile motor from a yard pulled and the rollers inspected. I don’t think it’s a roller issue and it seem most of the youtube motors seem to have a high failure rate with the right bank and maybe the motor has an oiling issue. Maybe Chrysler pointing a finger at a supplier is easier than an engineering fail.
Sound like you are doing something right. Regardless of the failure. I’m Curious to know if you have maintained the 5w20 weight? I have always used mobile 1 and valavoline full synthetic. I frequently change the oil between 3-4k miles. why under the covers the engine is so clean. My take on the oiling is issues with hot spots as the main contributing factor from long periods of time at idle. Food Drive thrus, offroading (low rpm) and stop go traffic all accumulate wear a in TIME. (Not mileage). This is why I say it’s safer to change oil at earlier intervals. For example if your taking a day trip offroading you may have 8 hours on the engine that day but only 50 miles on the dash. How does one calculate the differences from what the service manual recommends?
I also saw the most common failure was passenger side exhaust rockers. which maybe somethings up withn the exhaust being too restrictive or something
Thanks for the video as you are the only one to explain how the phaser works and goes bad. Great. Video
Thanks for watching i appreciate it 🍻
Thank you so much just ran into a ticking issue on my 2015 jk this video definitely is the best I’ve watched many and now I’m confident enough to do this repair in my garage 🔥
Awesome you found it useful, thanks for watching 🍻
155K on my 13 JK with no ticking yet but I'm ready. 10W-30 synthetic every 4K since new and drive it like I stole it. Seen them go in the 50K's and last a little past 200K.
Nice 👍🏼
Is that the recommended oil viscosity? My 19 3.2L specs 5w-20.
@@budlanctot3060 5w-20 is what I’ve always used
Great video!! I have a question though. Why replace the cams and phasers on one side and not the other? Maybe I missed the diagnoses in the video that made you decide to do this.
The tone wheels on those cams were damaged, ( i do cover that part in some shorts) thats beside the point of this video, replacing lash adjusters and rockers. One way is to “remove” the cams for repair. I show two ways to do it. Thanks for watching
@@ATEMOFFROAD gotcha. Thanks for the info. Just making sure I didn’t miss something. Good work all around!!
Great video bro! I have a 23 JL and changed my oil at 1000 after break in to remove break in wear particles and then again at 5000 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum full synthetic Chrysler spec MS-6395 and FraM Titanium and Purolator BOSS filter
I hope she lasts a long time. The only thing I can do is proper maintenance.
Thought about doing the Baxter spin on filter adaptor.
I tried to make sure she was broken in properly. I don't use the start Stop and give her nice revs regularly. I made sure the filter cap O ring was placed in the proper groove and NOT overtighten which can crush the cartridge filter and crack the plastic oil filter housing....
I hope she does well bc after all these years without a license I can drive with the wind in my hair with the top, doors, and windows off. Life is good at the moment, I just hope she does well 🥹
Great video learned of a new failure point the oil gally bolts darn upper end is so weakly designed.
I have 150,000 on my 2015 JKU (6sp manual)and have had no major issues yet other than routine maintenance, am going to have to change the oil cooler it just started leaking. I have always used AMSOIL and changed at 5 to 6 thousand intervals. Thanks for this video I’m sure at some point I’m gonna have to do the tappets or came chains. I don’t plan on getting rid of it any time soon, it’s paid off lol. Would it be wise to go to 30W oil given my mileage. Thanks
Derek -machine repairman at Chrysler Kokomo transmission
Very nice, and great job on the maintenance, unfortunately I bought my jeep used so you know how that goes. Great tips too. Thanks for watching I appreciate it. 🍻
Hey - awesome video. I'm about to tackle this one myself. QQ - why did you only replace the cam phasers on one side? Appreciate the help...!
Great video. Should have taken the time to change out the oil cooler housing as it is a high failure item on these engines.
Thank you , did replace it not long before this here’s the video 🍻Jeep Wrangler JK JKU - Oil Cooler Filter Housing Replacement 3.6L Pentastar Doorman 926-876
th-cam.com/video/0mtiiDK_LYQ/w-d-xo.html
Just did a cam replacement in my moms chrysler town and country coming in at 205k miles. Only one rocker was bad on the front side and wiped a cam lobe out on the exchaust side then the back side had three bad rockers but caught them in time before the cam got completely destroyed and the rest of the rockers seem tight with little too no play in them "yet." Hopefully we can get another 100k out of it before something more major happens too the engine.
Very well explained and professionally accomplished video.
Thanks for watching 🍻
I had to do both banks a few weeks apart, and you could see a little wear right on the edge of the cam lobe, but not where the roller contacts it so I didn't replace them
Awesome , caught it just in time. Thanks for watching. 🍻
The oil cooler go bad too Forman makes a good replacement
Awesome video, I have a wrangler 2018, it ticks for a little bit after been parked at cold startups...also is hell trying to jump start one if your battery ever djes on you. Had to to get mine towed to the dealer. Is there a special secret to jump start one successfully??
Yeah you must have a really dead battery , those mopar batteries do that. As far as the tick it’s by design before starting the jeep you can prime the oil pressure system by holding down the gas pedal while starting the jeep for 3 seconds. This will make the jeep not start but prime the system once the engine stop turning over start the engine and your good to go. 🍻
Valvoline. And routine oil changes helps a lot.
Nice 👍🏼 🍻
Iv used duralube since 40000 on 2019 trailhawk hoping that helps
I love your repair videos. Super helpful with your suggestions, I fixed my oil filter housing leak with your video.
Thank you I’m glad to help 🍻
When you are putting your valve covers back on, you should use Synthetic Oil to lubricate the O-ring style gasket. Just because your valve cover is plastic does NOT mean the seal doesn't need lubrication to seal permanently.
Important note: NEVER put any seal in any machine DRY, that is where cover leaks come from. I used to work in a Hydraulic sh0p, our go-to Pro tip for sealing any gasket, O-ring type seals that are prone to leaking or are simply old and the surfaces are worn is: we would use a high quality Synthetic Grease to wipe on the seal to guarantee a good seal with NO leaks or seeping. The grease trick works on Covers, shafts, axles, rams, motors and any machines experiencing pressures of upward of 3000 psi of Oil pressure. It really works.
Or if you don't believe me ignore this tip, and watch your Jeep drip oil on the driveway in 6 months.
The real reason these Cam phasers and roller rockers fail is because the owners are cheaping out on their choice of Motor Oil, use the highest quality of motor Oil you can get; and your engine will go a lot further before you need a tear down. I refuse to use brands like Castrol Sludge, Valvoline, Quaker Mistake the list goes on. The only brands I would use would be as follows, Amsoil, Luqui-Moly or Motul. I do an engine flush every Oil change to wash the sludge out, then Amsoil with the best filter money can buy. If it is an engine that you push to extremes working the motor to the max for long periods like hauling heavy loads through the mountains for 6 hours at a time, then when you are doing all that work on the top, install a Melling High Volume Oil pump. If you push your 4x4 or truck to it's max capacity every day, you need a Melling, coupled with the best Motor Oil and you WILL get long life from your engine, especially these Cam phaser engines or interference motors.
I used to work in an engine rebuilding facility and the #1 reason for engine failure today IS, as it has always been: Lack of lubrication.
Would You Work On This EPA Junk EPA Made MFG. Build JUNK My New One Is A 1999 F 350 7.3 From New ALL Junk Now
Excellent video, man!
Thank you! 🙏
Very descriptive & easy to listen to. I really appreciate you making my life easier by passing along your knowledge via this video!
I do have a question, however, as I'm putting my gaskets on my valve cover - does the camshaft gasket sit flush against the cover or does it have some flexibility for inserting the camshaft sensor?
Thanks in advance!
Also, on the driver side when you had all of the cam caps off, did you pry up on the cam phaser? I don't think you included that part in the video & I'm struggling to get the front 2 (front of motor if facing the vehicle) lifters out.
Thanks again!
Yes there is some flexibility as you tighten down the sensors the gaskets should seal. Yes I pryed on the phasers oil control bolt it’s tough a a bit nerve racking but definitely doable take your time. I show that on the first cam the intake. 🍻
@ATEMOFFROAD thanks for the response! I ended up getting it! & nerve racking is an understatement when it's your first time "in there" ha!
Great stuff again! You've helped A LOT of people, my man!
You're more than appreciated!
Thanks again!!!
@@aaronmanley7595 thanks for watching I appreciate it 🍻
Few things to speed things up..
You can do this whole job without losing coolant and needing to rebleed by simply pulling the coolant lines into the valley out of the way..
No need to take the phaser sensors off the valve cover, it'll come off with them in place.
If you're only doing rockers you can do all 24 rockers the way you did the driver side. This is nice if you're just going after one single ticking rocker to be cheap.
The pcv valve bolts are easy to get with one of the tiny ratchets that take 1/4 hex bits. Oreillys has a nice one.
Be careful torqueing the cam cap bolts while they're wet with oil, they won't click a torque wrench and strip out or snap.
If you don't remove the cam If you place the rear most cam lobe down you can do all the rockers without having to rotate the cam inbetween.
If you're only going after the one bad one, its almost always the number 5 intake rockers, but I've seen them in almost every spot.
Good tips especially the magnets, no need to remove those , I did because I had a new valve cover gasket set so I was already there. The coolant hardline too, if you can do it without removing good on you. I seen no other way but to totally remove to remove the cover. 🤷♂️🍻
@ATEMOFFROAD I usually ziptie it to the little stud on the alternator and it just pulls it out of the way enough.
Great video, I've got a 2021 Gladiator with 63k and its always had a little ticking noise but in the last couple months its gotten worse, to the point it sounds like there's no oil in the engine at start up, it gets better after it warms up but is still louder than it was.
Did you replace those cam phasers on the passenger side with new ones? What brand would you recommend and do you think all four should just be replaced since I'm going to be in there anyway?
Im getting the parts list together for what im going to need to do this, definitely looks like a long weekend job.
Yes both new phasers , start thinking about replacing those around 80-100k mopar is a good brand for those, and replacing all 4 is a good idea. A good place for parts is rock auto, I bought everything from there and the savings is huge. Thanks for watching 🍻
Bro i can not belive your having problem in the newer JL model jeep, i though they fix them with the recall 2011 to 2018 JEEP jk, i guess not, that kinda of sad, make sure you document that and call jeep cause i'm sure you are not the only one.
Very detailed cool tip for them screws facing the firewall this is why I like these kind of videos learn something new 👍👍👍👍
Yeah that pcv is the worst and the coolest design I’ve ever seen 🤣 a pain to remove and install ,but sorta a cool in design because how it works as part of the camshaft. The black round drum on the end of the cam is a centrifuge. 🍻
Great video. Quick question, the sound on first start up at the end (I know that’s normal after the repair) is a dulled down version of the rattle on start up I’m getting with mine. To me it sounds like the cam phaser, thoughts?
And tips on figuring out which bank the loud phaser would be on? Stethoscope? Would there be good data to watch to sus out the suspect phaser?
@@lucashunter6163 yep that’s totally normal with these engines at cold start, it’s called cam phaser chatter due to low oil pressure. As soon as the oil pressure is up the chatter goes away. Doesn’t happen every time usually after the Jeep sits for 30+ minutes or longer when the oil pressure has time to drop and returns back to the oil sump. If your mileage is high it could also indicate loose timing chains and worn guides.
A stethoscope will help find which bank, usually the noise gets louder as the engine warms up is a bad rocker arm. You can also check for metal shavings in your oil filter that is a good indicator of failed rockers. This is why I do my own oil changes. Jeeps TICKING Time Bomb 3.6 Pentastar Engine - Metal Shavings Found In OIL Filter
th-cam.com/users/shorts43e397qe1M0?feature=share
@@ATEMOFFROAD appreciate the reply. I had a strong feeling that it sounded very phaser-like. Looks like I better dig in soon.
Did you by chance happen to do the oil cooler earlier? Would have been good idea to replace it with everything that far torn down. Lost a lifter at about 18k and took out a cam in an 18 Pacifica. Making me think I should do this when when I do the oil cooler. Plus valve cover is leaking. It runs great when it runs but too many problems with it to convince me to buy another one. They are also known to blow head gaskets too 🙄
Will the Melling rockers be more resistant / immune to this issue now? Or can it still occur? And why do you replace the PCV valve?
Best video so far for this job. Well done!
Thank you 🍻
Hey bro just want to inform you you did not have to take the cams out and all that to change the lifters you could have reached down in there with a screwdriver and popped them out just like on the dodgers that have the hemi tick you can reach right down in there with a screwdriver as long as the valve covers off and pop the lifters and the rockers off change both of them
@@jasonhunter2611 are you a subscriber?
2013 JKUR with 220k + miles. I change the oil every 5k miles with Mobil 1.
Very nice 👍🏼 🍻
nice!
Really great information! I think I need to do this to my 2017 WK2... Did you have any codes pop up afterwards? Did you have to perform a "timing relearn" afterwards?
No codes, it’s recommended to do the relearn , not really necessary on the 2017.
@@ATEMOFFROAD great! Thank you so much for your help
Wow! Nicely done and all in under one hour 🤪. I have the same jeep. Cant wait to do that fix. Not. Great video!
Thank you 🍻
My 19 Cherokee 2.0 is in the shop now for a very similar sound. It rattles, or "ticks" when I sit with my foot on the brake in R or D. It goes away in P or N. Though I was told the sound is in the lower end. Just out of warranty at 70k miles. Was told I need an engine.
Good luck , a whole new engine ?? Omg 😱
@@ATEMOFFROAD Yep. Thanks. So we will see what they tell me!
@@stevenm6301 please keep me updated! I appreciate it hope everything works out 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD Thanks man I appreciate the encouragement. Hoping to have an answer soon! Do you think what I described could be a rocker arm?
My 2021 gladiator is having all that and the cams replaced both sides as we speek been in the shop for months waiting on parts....
Unbelievable, those dealers need to get a grip or we arnt coming back as customers. Good luck and I hope you get your jeep back soon. 🍻
Man I gotta tackle that on my 2013 Jeep Wrangler Jku tomorrow
You got this 🙌
Yeah I had a mechanic tackle the other side a few days ago but it’s clicking now on the other side
@@MikeCampuzano-uw8pc hopefully he replaced all 12 on that side. 🍻
Hey ATEM, my wife has a 2013, basically everything you did on this jeep has just been done to hers. All 24 rockers, lifters, new exhaust and intake cam on passenger side, new phasers on passenger side, new cam sensor, pcv... runs fine but now we have a P0369 code that won't go away, come on direct after starting..
We’re both camshafts bad? Why did those get replaced
@ATEMOFFROAD yeah... im about to pull the upper intake and trace the cam sensor wires back to the pcm to see if they're damaged
Did you have to do any kind of relearn procedure or sync??
@@richardhopson1585it’s recommended it not necessary, did you find anything in the wiring? Here’s the procedure. How’s oil pressure? I have a diagnostic procedure I can share with you but it would have to be through email. ATEMOFFROAD@gamil.com
I've gone through the wiring as much as I can, replaced the cam sensor harness and both exhaust and intake vvt solenoid harness. New cam and crank sensor, I can feel the engine idle alittle rough bit ita not real bad. The check engine and abs comes on several seconds after starting. The guy we had work on the jeep said he pulled both oil gally bolts, cleaned them and applied lock tight.. im thinking about installing new ones just in case but I can't find the part number for them.
Great vid. This going to be similar for a 2013 wrangler? Thanks!
Yes very similar, if not that same 🍻
Thanks for the video. Helped a lot
Just changed mine on my 18jk.
@@dgl3834 thanks for watching 🍻
hola amigo, eres realmente muy profesioanl, tendre todo esto en cuenta para el proximo cambio de mis balancines, saludos desde Chile.
Thank you 🙏 🍻
155,000 miles on mine with a Supercharger and regularly drive 80-100mph. I change oil every 3k miles with cheap Halvoline 5w-30.
Very cool 😎 thanks for watching 🙏🍻
this video is better than some factory training
Thanks for watching 🍻
Hey man great video, you gained a sub! I have a 2018 jeep grand cherokee throwing P000A with 97,000 miles. Kind of has a gravely crackling noise under medium load in 6th gear. It doesn't have any lifter tick. Do you think a bad phaser could be throwing this code? Please help! Much appreciated!
Sounds like a bad Cat, you must have the 8 speed updated 3.6v ?
At 100k it’s definitely worth pulling the covers and having a look. Chains and sprockets are about due.
@atemoffroad yes it is the 8 speed. Yesterday it was having a hard time maintaining 75mph uphill on cruise, would drop down to 72 and take a second to get back to 75.
I need to do this on my 2013 Jeep now, can I ask how long it take you to do this job & How much it will cost for labor?
I had a rocker arm go bad on my 2011 durango with the 3.6 with 110k miles.check engine light came on and off from 120k-140k miles till i finally decided to tear into the moter and find the issue.ended up changing all the rocker arms and a cam shaft but im ar 170k miles with no issues no
Nice catch, awesome repair, thanks for sharing 🍻
I have 2015 Grand Cherokee with pentastar engine with 161,000 miles. So far so good. No ticking yet. I guess I got lucky so far.
That’s awesome, must be a freak engine. They are out there. Good work 👍🏼🍻
Great video Brother, any reason you replaced cam phasers on first bank only?
Yes 3 reasons , mopar recommends that they get replaced around 80-100k miles . And For this video I wanted to add how to test for a bad phaser. And for that I was able to show what a good phaser tests like for this video. lastly, i herd some chatter on bank 1 during cold start prior to the repairs, I was already there and the cams needed to be removed for the demo so I replaced them. The spring tension in them were good. The chatter at cold start I believe is the oiling system bleeds off pressure and you get the momentary chatter at cold start once the pressure is up the chatter goes away.
Thank you for the response.
If mopar recommends replacing the cam phasers at 80-100k miles I'm not sure why you didn't replace all of them? In the video you didn't show how to test for a bad phaser or a good phaser. If not replacing the cam phazers can you replace the rockers and lifts the same way as you did on the drivers side? @@ATEMOFFROAD
Nicely done and very detailed explanation of everything. Thanks for putting this video together!
Thanks for watching i appreciate it 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROADwhat was the amount of time it took to complete and rough costs?
Man.. great video. Cant wait to do this on my gfs jeep. Thanks!
I swear toyota owners actively search for these repair videos just to comment about their Toyota
🤣💀
Every manufacturer including Toyota has issues. I recently had a 23 Tacoma with 16k miles I drove for a few weeks and was shocked at how loud that engine is. It makes the Jeep's sound quiet. There isn't literally a single engine out there that doesn't have some type of "known" issue.
@@jayandtonit’s quiet because it’s not working lol American cars wonder why nobody like them becuase they are shit now, most of these jeeps have plastic parts that are vital don’t hate the game hate the cheap manufacturing
@@franbelta1533I have two fords with over 250k miles ranger has 300 pluse 🤷♂️I just change oil like post too
Hey Bud, I have a 2015 jk with 115k miles. Motor just started ticking and will replace rockers and lifters ASAP. Should cam phasers be replaced and if so does it consist of 2 identical e intake and 2 identical exhaust phasers. Thanks in advance Brother😊
Yes both sides intake and exhaust are the same and it’s recommended to replace at 89-100k. Rockauto.com is a good place to index all the parts needed to make the repairs. Mopar dealer as well . 🍻
I have a 2014 Grand Cherokee, and while it’s 10 years old, it only has 29k miles on it because I mostly drive my other vehicle. The other day I was over at my mom’s place to jump her vehicle using my GC, and I noticed the classic ticking of broken rockers. I cannot believe it has this problem with less than 30k on it!!! So angry and bummed out, and I just don’t have any time to do the repairs myself. This honestly makes me never want to buy another Jeep product even though I know their rocker design has improved.😒
Yeah I totally understand, I’d be broken if I had to take the jeep to someone els for repairs. Parts and labor are a killer right now. Good luck and thanks for watching 🍻
done this job multiple times , never touched lifters. the problem is in the rockers 100% of the time and i only use mopar parts
Nice 👍🏼
Got 307,603 miles on my 2013 jk.been getting cam shaft codes beginning two yrs ago. More frequently when i push tue engine hard especially when trying to pass goofballs on the road who dont know what speed they wanna go. Question is, u do a cam shaft relearn after this?
I feel like its mix bag with this engine and people , some have horrible experiences with these...but i deff got my moneys worth. I think if u take care of this engine..it can last.
It’s a good idea, but I don’t relearn every time, unless necessary. It’s usually if codes are involved. And way to go on the mileage, 👏 I’ve seen some very well kept jks with high mileage and I personally won’t let my jku go because, so I’m planning for 300k too 😅
That’s a lot of miles!
@@golferpro1241 update. 312k now. And yea it is. Shooting to 350k
Master class in automotive working.
Thanks for watching I appreciate it 🍻
Weren't you afraid of accidently dropping those tiny lifters down into the engine?
@@maratglotser6918, i did drop them down in the head but used a magnet to get them. Be careful with magnets around these engines. Never touch the camshafts with them. 🍻
Just curious as to why not change out the other two phasers? It's a bit of work to get to them and you were already in there. Looking at buying a 2015 and I'm a bit nervous with what I've heard about these v6 engines.
I’m just not ready to change them yet, they are still good actually that side is easier when the time comes. I will probably do everything again once the timing chains and guides are due. It’s coming up. 🍻
Look into BAXTER performance. Oil filter replacement. Valve. It prevents. Lifter failure..........!!!!!
Easier then a screw driver for the spark plug gaskets, put a socket on it on the top, (forget the size) and pound them out pretty easily.
Hello sir I went on the same tiking problem on my jeep jk and I adventure in and follow your video to replace the lifters and the rocker arms also I had to replace 2 of the cams because they are worn pretty bad but now I have 2 codes and no power at all the codes are P0016 and P0300 do you know any advice for that ones? I really appreciate the video and you explain very well that’s why I get the encouraging and do it my self thank you very much!!!
Would the Baxter performance cartridge to screw on oil filter adapter prevent this issue in the future? I'm about to do this same repair on my '16 JKU.
The idea and design is good, it would need to be tested long term to tell if it’s really worth it or not. 🍻
Dang, I didn't even know about the oil galley bolts.
Hopefully your good 👍🏼 🍻
Great job filming and lighting. Also very well explained.
Thank you i appreciate it 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD Yes Sir Good Video & Work But It's EPA JUNK Never Going To Buy NEW Again 1999 F350 7.3 For Life Work SO Good With OUT EPA like 1969 lat year Of Good Cars & 1999 Last Year Of Good Diesels Engines
ASK EPA ABOUT NUCLEAR ALL Lie's OF GREED WE DIE For There LIES @ 39 CPM Cancer Lotto
I have a 2015 Rubicon x with 225T miles on it, and likely still run good. My friend Paul, his Mojave 2020 with 85T miles spend $3k to fix that.
1998 mazda b 2500 2nd owner 230k miles
Fires right up. No noises. They don’t make them like that anymore.
Very cool , did those come in 4wd?
You make it look easy, great job...
Thank you 🍻
My 2015 has 85,000 miles on it and noticing I have to check the oil level often.
Great video! What size wrench did you use to rotate the engine?
27mm socket , thank you 🍻
Ive heard rumors that these engines are bad. I went to the chrysler jeep dodge ram dealership to look at the new grand cherokees and the pentastar engines are now in all models ranging from the jeep wrangler, ram 1500 and even the grand cherokees.
They are. It's all over the Internet. Same with the Hemi. Roller lifter failures are common. They won't stand behind it if you're out of warranty. Run! Thank me later. I really like the vehicles but the company is unethical as hec. Lemon buy backs are common with these too. Grand Cherokee especially. My friends brand new Gladiator was in the shop for 3 months. He had jaur bought it new .
Good stuff 👌 would that bad cam phaser cause a P0365 code?
Yeah that’s a generic code for timing, camshaft position sensor detects out of normalcy. But there are many variables here to consider as the phaser spring can fail, I showed how to test for that, Oil pressure is a big deal, phasers will not work properly if loss of pressure, possible cause Is the oil galley bolts can fall out the head and loose oil pressure that way. Is the vehicle in traction control mode? any other faults?. has someone recently worked on this engine? Why do you suspect a bad phaser? How many miles?
@@ATEMOFFROAD yes the traction control lights is on the dash too.
@@ATEMOFFROAD the car has 160k km . I suspect the phasers because u mention the trac control light is on the dash i think mayb its in (limp mode) too, it wouldnt go drive pass 70km sometimes. Anyways ill open the valve cover and investigate the phasers.
@@4x4AUTOBOT good idea you can check them without removing the entire cover. Just pull off the exhaust and intake. Front magnets can take a mirror and check for missing galley bolts and you’ll have an open window for a socket to check the cam phasers.
Removing special tool and cam phaser gear is a big no no. And leaving the chain hang there !
I wants to learn, Please explain how it is properly done? Thanks
very well done and informative video. thanks for sharing
Great video, excellent mechanic
Thank you 🍻
I don't understand how come you put those cam phasers in with no problems. Yeah I'm no mechanic but why is it that hard. I turned the cam far as possible, even turned the crank a lil bit to finally get it on. I've worked on a Lexus before and had no issues with the timing belt.😢
Once the chains are slacked it’s pretty easy from there. 🍻
Tanks for youbtime and informatios saludos desde cali colombia
Thank you 🙏