Really enjoying learning from this build! I think you've officially pushed me over into designing with i-joists for my own house. This roof looks like something I can actually handle 🤣
Being able to have long spans with the i-joists is awsome, it was alot easier for me to visualize and figure out than if we had done a ridge beam and traditional framing. We were thinking about having trusses made but none of the companies responded to us when we sent them the plans.
Hey! Great build! I was curious if you thought about using rim board to cap off the bci? Or is just some plywood good enough to cap off. Let me know your thoughts if you can! Thanks so much.
The problem with the rim board is that it's really heavy and you would only be nailing it to the ends of the joists unless you added blocking. We found the plywood worked fine for what we were doing.
Nice work. We are framing up our farm packshed with BCI's too! This was a great video to watch as we tool up. I noticed you just use OSB scraps as blocking on your BCI's on one end of your roof. How'd you actually nail that in? Did you use some kind of brackets we couldn't see?
So the blocking was a rim board made by the same company as the joists so it is the same height, they are also 1.25" thick so I just toe nailed the bottom of the blocking into the top plate and then shot a nail on the top and bottom of each side of the blocking to connect it to the joist. Hope that helps! And good luck with your project! The joists are really easy to work with and we really like them!
Thanks! I also appreciate the eave details in your video. I was wondering how I'd do that. We are also packing our roof with cellulose, along with our double stud wall. Please visit our farm if you are ever in Montana!@@PootsPastures
This is really awesome, you guys did an amazing job! I'm doing a very similar roof and wondering what is the snow load in your area and how did you determine the snow load capacity of the I-joists?
The load capacity of the Ijoists is determined by the manufacturer. There is a chart where you match the load needed to how far apart the joists are spaced, and it gives you the maximum span of each type of joist. I think our ground snow load is 60psf
If you could have framed the i-joists up plumb with the wall to make a box, and then later installed the eves for your overhang, wouldn't that be much more air-tight and potentially a bit easier than having to fill all those cracks?
We tried to to that on one of the sides and it was super hard and we abandoned it completely. Filling the gaps with spray foam wasn't hard at all, and if you wanted to you could put blocking in the web so it was completely flat. I will note we did it how the manufacturer specifies.
Great videos and very helpful. Thank you. We are about to undertake building our own home so you are an inspiration. Curious where you are building this place?
@@PootsPastures Cobb, CA. Southern Lake County, just north of the CA Wine Country. Bought a property in the burn scar of the Valley Fire (2015). Had an architect design a house to fit the foundation and are ready to start building in a few weeks. We will be following your tips! Is your place finished? I haven't gotten through all the videos yet.
That's awsome, you have some stressful times ahead of you but when you start to see the end it makes it all worth it! We are not finished yet, we're hopping to have insulation done this week then it's just trying to get drywall, septic, and power done in the next couple weeks.
@@PootsPastures Thank you. We are prepared for it. We have remodeled about 6 homes over 30 years and completely rebuilt 2 others. At one point we've tackled just about everything. Got an email over the weekend that the permits are ready to issue. Just need to bring the balance of any money we thought was ours vs. the county!
We originally tried a circulars saw witch was super sketchy so we ended up using a table saw (which was only a little better). If I were going to do it again I would rip the top plate in half so you are only trying to bevel a 2x3 not a 2x6. And then place both the 2x3's on the top plate. Hope that helps!
we don't need web stiffeners for any type of loading, the only reason to add them would have been to fill the space, which we did with foam. Web stiffeners suck to cut so yeah we skipped that.!
I like the simplistic design of a shed roof. I also couldn't get any truss company to return my call as I wasn't using a contractor. We also would have used metal roofing either way because we are collecting rain water off of it, and it's more fire resistant. Hopfully that helps answer your questions!
@@PootsPastures Ok thanks, it looks great. I was just trying to decide if I would be better off using trusses for shingles, I'm a bit concerned with the high up work for a slant roof.
That's a hard question to answer. The short answer is yes. If you look up the company that you want to manufacture the joists (for example we used BCI or Boise cascade) they should have a "specifier guide" that will help you choose the right size joist for your application based on span distance, roof pitch, snow load, and joist spacing.
Idk if you're still interested. But I've been studying bcis guide for over a year. Seems like the detail he used should be in the guide. But it is not. BUT it IS allowed. Just got to this part of my build and had to call to figure it out. You are allowed to use I's as outriggers. Just recommended to do 2 pile anchors instead of a single I joist.
You can cut a birdsmouth the manufacture then requires you to add some bracing to the webb of the I joist. So instead we beveled a third top plate to be the same angle as the slope and then attach the joists with two nails and a hurricane tie (in our case a structural screw). Hope that answers your question!
The pitch is about 2.5:12, so about 11 degrees. Not ideal, but going any higher with our pitch would have been hard in our case because we had so many issues getting someone to design trusses. We also recently spec'd trusses for our barn, and trusses still came out about double the cost of I joists. Another plus is that the snow will not slide off of our roof which means we get to collected all of the water from when the snow melts, however it does make our snow load higher. Hope that helps.
What's the point of putting window header and not routing load from the top plate with cripple studs through it? Header supposed to distribute weight from everything above to jack studs. In your case it just sits there lonely.
I just havnt put some of the top cripples in yet, I know it probably should have gotten done before the roof, but with the rain we have forecasted I wanted to get our roof up as quick as possible.
Look into using structural screws instead of lag bolts as they tend to be thinner so you aren't drilling through as much as the web. They cost a little more but I use them for all my top plate to joist connections. They also can replace hurricane.
thanks for posting this video but Jesus, what do you think would be really relevant information regarding using one section of a rafter over another, and that is what is the span they are covering.
Watched this again after 3 years. One of the best lean roof videos available
Great video. Your a blessed man with that helper you have!
Thanks! I think so too!
Very detailed. Good Choice of selecting I joist for roof
The I Joists deffinately aren't standard for roof framing around here but they were perfect for our application.
EXCELLENT, EXCELLENT video and tutorial
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it!
Love these videos! Nice Bluegrass tunes!
Glad you enjoyed the video!
Keep up the good work!!
Thanks!
You guys are gettin it! Thanks for videos, you help me immeasurably😃😃😃
Love the videos. How did you guys cut the beveled 2x6 topplates?
The two of ya got alot done. The house is looking good... i got hurt, my little finger got a cut 😁
Yeah it was a productive weekend! And haha, at least your finger didn't get run over!
Really enjoying learning from this build! I think you've officially pushed me over into designing with i-joists for my own house. This roof looks like something I can actually handle 🤣
Being able to have long spans with the i-joists is awsome, it was alot easier for me to visualize and figure out than if we had done a ridge beam and traditional framing. We were thinking about having trusses made but none of the companies responded to us when we sent them the plans.
Well done
Thank you!
make a jig out of 1x12 to cut your i joists, makes life a little easier. Waht what the span? load? and size of TJI?
Good stuff
Hey! Great build! I was curious if you thought about using rim board to cap off the bci? Or is just some plywood good enough to cap off. Let me know your thoughts if you can! Thanks so much.
The problem with the rim board is that it's really heavy and you would only be nailing it to the ends of the joists unless you added blocking. We found the plywood worked fine for what we were doing.
I always Thompson waterseal all wood with a sprayer. Just an extra help for the future
Nice work. We are framing up our farm packshed with BCI's too! This was a great video to watch as we tool up. I noticed you just use OSB scraps as blocking on your BCI's on one end of your roof. How'd you actually nail that in? Did you use some kind of brackets we couldn't see?
So the blocking was a rim board made by the same company as the joists so it is the same height, they are also 1.25" thick so I just toe nailed the bottom of the blocking into the top plate and then shot a nail on the top and bottom of each side of the blocking to connect it to the joist. Hope that helps! And good luck with your project! The joists are really easy to work with and we really like them!
Thanks! I also appreciate the eave details in your video. I was wondering how I'd do that. We are also packing our roof with cellulose, along with our double stud wall. Please visit our farm if you are ever in Montana!@@PootsPastures
Glad it was helpful! Not sure the next time I would be up that way, but if I am I absolutely wouldn't and likewise for y'all if your ever in AZ!
The structural screws through the bottom of top plate into I-joist is an allowed connection for uplift?
This is really awesome, you guys did an amazing job! I'm doing a very similar roof and wondering what is the snow load in your area and how did you determine the snow load capacity of the I-joists?
The load capacity of the Ijoists is determined by the manufacturer. There is a chart where you match the load needed to how far apart the joists are spaced, and it gives you the maximum span of each type of joist. I think our ground snow load is 60psf
If you could have framed the i-joists up plumb with the wall to make a box, and then later installed the eves for your overhang, wouldn't that be much more air-tight and potentially a bit easier than having to fill all those cracks?
We tried to to that on one of the sides and it was super hard and we abandoned it completely. Filling the gaps with spray foam wasn't hard at all, and if you wanted to you could put blocking in the web so it was completely flat. I will note we did it how the manufacturer specifies.
Great videos and very helpful. Thank you. We are about to undertake building our own home so you are an inspiration. Curious where you are building this place?
Thank you! That means alot, and we are in northern AZ between Flagstaff and Williams. Where are y'all bulding at?
@@PootsPastures Cobb, CA. Southern Lake County, just north of the CA Wine Country. Bought a property in the burn scar of the Valley Fire (2015). Had an architect design a house to fit the foundation and are ready to start building in a few weeks. We will be following your tips!
Is your place finished? I haven't gotten through all the videos yet.
That's awsome, you have some stressful times ahead of you but when you start to see the end it makes it all worth it!
We are not finished yet, we're hopping to have insulation done this week then it's just trying to get drywall, septic, and power done in the next couple weeks.
@@PootsPastures Thank you. We are prepared for it. We have remodeled about 6 homes over 30 years and completely rebuilt 2 others. At one point we've tackled just about everything. Got an email over the weekend that the permits are ready to issue. Just need to bring the balance of any money we thought was ours vs. the county!
How did you resolves the gaps in the bird blocks?
How did you bevel the top plate? Circular saw? Table saw?
We originally tried a circulars saw witch was super sketchy so we ended up using a table saw (which was only a little better). If I were going to do it again I would rip the top plate in half so you are only trying to bevel a 2x3 not a 2x6. And then place both the 2x3's on the top plate. Hope that helps!
@@PootsPastures it helps very much thank you for responding
He needed web stiffeners where he put his blocking in on both sides . I love cutting web stiffeners 😂
we don't need web stiffeners for any type of loading, the only reason to add them would have been to fill the space, which we did with foam. Web stiffeners suck to cut so yeah we skipped that.!
What made you guys decide on a slant roof instead of truss ? I like the slant look but metal roofing is so much more expensive
I like the simplistic design of a shed roof. I also couldn't get any truss company to return my call as I wasn't using a contractor. We also would have used metal roofing either way because we are collecting rain water off of it, and it's more fire resistant. Hopfully that helps answer your questions!
@@PootsPastures Ok thanks, it looks great. I was just trying to decide if I would be better off using trusses for shingles, I'm a bit concerned with the high up work for a slant roof.
What snow load did you build the roof for?
The snow load is 40 pounds a square foot in our area.
How long was your span for the I joists
The joists are 20ft, and sit on 2x8's on each side so the actual "clear span" is a little less than 19ft.
Hope that helps!
@@PootsPastures thanks for the quick response.
Hi how long can I joist be for a roof l need it for a shed type roof that is 32 ft long.
That's a hard question to answer. The short answer is yes. If you look up the company that you want to manufacture the joists (for example we used BCI or Boise cascade) they should have a "specifier guide" that will help you choose the right size joist for your application based on span distance, roof pitch, snow load, and joist spacing.
Where did you find the specs for using the I joist to make your end gable overhangs by installing perpendicular to main rafters?
That is specified in the specification guide that is made by the manufacturer.
Idk if you're still interested. But I've been studying bcis guide for over a year. Seems like the detail he used should be in the guide. But it is not. BUT it IS allowed. Just got to this part of my build and had to call to figure it out. You are allowed to use I's as outriggers. Just recommended to do 2 pile anchors instead of a single I joist.
How did you connect the i-joists to the top plate or in my place a double 2x12 girder? Normally you'd cut a birdsmouth in 2x lumber...
You can cut a birdsmouth the manufacture then requires you to add some bracing to the webb of the I joist. So instead we beveled a third top plate to be the same angle as the slope and then attach the joists with two nails and a hurricane tie (in our case a structural screw).
Hope that answers your question!
@@PootsPastures sure did ! Thanks man
LOL, how many cameras have you been thru on this build?
Surprisingly were still using the same one with a broken lense and tripod... but I'll be ordering replacements for those soon!
What’s your roof pitch?
The pitch is about 2.5:12, so about 11 degrees. Not ideal, but going any higher with our pitch would have been hard in our case because we had so many issues getting someone to design trusses. We also recently spec'd trusses for our barn, and trusses still came out about double the cost of I joists. Another plus is that the snow will not slide off of our roof which means we get to collected all of the water from when the snow melts, however it does make our snow load higher. Hope that helps.
On the side it looks like you had to block underneath the short I-joists. Is that correct?
That’s how I was planning on doing mine with beveled top plates but cutting mine with a chainsaw!
Nice the chain saw saw sounds like it may be hard, but there's not really an easy way of doing it
Save time and get EXACT accuracy - Make you a 19” template out of a piece of scrap wood. Nice work by the way.
Thank you! and I've all ways been really bad at making templates, or story boards, but it deffinately would make things easier!
What's the point of putting window header and not routing load from the top plate with cripple studs through it? Header supposed to distribute weight from everything above to jack studs. In your case it just sits there lonely.
I just havnt put some of the top cripples in yet, I know it probably should have gotten done before the roof, but with the rain we have forecasted I wanted to get our roof up as quick as possible.
Also screwing mine down with lag bolts!
Look into using structural screws instead of lag bolts as they tend to be thinner so you aren't drilling through as much as the web. They cost a little more but I use them for all my top plate to joist connections. They also can replace hurricane.
thanks for posting this video but Jesus, what do you think would be really relevant information regarding using one section of a rafter over another, and that is what is the span they are covering.
That poor camera, takes a likken and keeps ticken.🙃
Yeah I'm really surprised it survived this time, its probably fallen over a good 10 times!
Thanks for watching!
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