Greetings from Austin Texas USA Preso. Thank you very much for the shout out and product exposure. I had the pleasure of meeting Guy Lopes a few years back and we've kept in touch ever since. He's a true gentlemen.
Thanks Joe. I must say I was stunned by Guy's generosity. It truly is an honour to be part of the wonderful TH-cam fraternity. Rest assured, your beautiful "torture" device is appreciated and well looked after. Regards, Mark
Thanks Chuck. I can understand. I gave up pretty quickly. I have trouble telling my left from right most days. I will give you a heads up. I have a mockup of a float lock vice like yours waiting for a spot in the workshop. It will have cast aluminium jaws with steel inserts on the faces and the quick setting rack feature in the main bar. I just need to upgrade my furnace burner to diesel fuel and I will be onto it. Regards, Mark
Thanks Yuchol. I recall watching your video covering the Bar Z Bash. In truth, I didn't want to embarrass myself by even attempting that particular challenge. This is why I never learned to dance. Can't tell my left from my right! Regards, Mark
An idea regarding the plug and socket. It might be worth replacing both parts with a version that is in production instead of sourcing an original part.
That was the fall-back position if I couldn't get a matching plug. Some viewers have sent me catalogues with the current LPA products and I will buy the 4 pin plug first to see if it fits the old socket. If it doesn't I will just buy another plug and the matching socket. Regards, Mark
@@Preso58 And if you want to keep the "correct" socket on the machine, you could use a short pigtail to connect the plug you have to a modern socket, as a homegrown adapter. New plugs on anything you want to power, and good to go.
I've been enjoying this series very much. I'd like to build something like this some day. The 3-D printed fixture was a nice idea. Thanks for the shout out, Mark! Really means a lot. 🙂
Thanks Greg. 3D printers are great for one off jigs and fixtures. I cannot wait to be able to sharpen the boxes of blunt drill bits that I have lying around. Regards, Mark
"For a jet engine I built", that's it ? Really ? Dropping that line and then silence on subject, shame on you. I expect a follow up on this project and special consideration for your next draw, wink, wink, nudge, nudge. John 🇨🇦
Yeah, sorry about that. The engine hasn't run for nearly 10 years but it is on the list of things to do. The last time I ran it I had a hot start and the nozzle guide vane ring distorted and the turbine wheel is rubbing on the shroud. I have to partly dismantle the engine and bore out the shroud ring so the main shaft will spin freely again. Check out this video if you want to see it running when I first built it back in 2010 th-cam.com/video/N7F4Bp-TcTA/w-d-xo.html Regards, Mark
If there’s anything on Earth stranger than kangaroos I hope someone points it out. These things look like they come from one of those generative AI programs commanded by a person with an odd sense of humor. I appreciate seeing the footage of them, though. Thanks as always, Mark. Oh, and clever machining solutions, too. If I had a 3D printer I’d print a Joey.
Joe's milling machine labyrinth Is a really nice gift. Something spcial. Cute to see the kangaroos at the end. Where we live, we can only see them in te zoo :)
Thanks Michel. It was awfully nice of Guy to send me that package. It's also nice to see someone else's machining work up close. It is a work of art. Regards, Mark
Gday Preso, these components turned out great, 3d printed fixtures are really a game changer, I’ve just gotta learn the computer side a bit better first, great job mate, cheers
My rough and ready 3D printed mockup looked like it might actually work as is but substituting some metal bushes and sheet steel flat plates would be perfect for this project. Most of the grinding is fairly light duty so there's no reason why it wouldn't work. Regards, Mark
Good idea but I think I have found a supplier in New Zealand who sells the LPA series of plugs and sockets. I will do a video update if I get it to work. Regards, Mark
Thanks John. I got better results on stainless steel but the brass and aluminium look a bit chewed. I will take your advice on board. I was always taught to knurl material dry but I notice a lot of people using cutting oil. I am thinking that compressed air would be good for blowing any debris out of the knurl so it doesn't track around and build up. Regards, Mark
@@Preso58 yes definitely get some air on there to blow out the chips especially on brass. Make sure there is some oil on the wheels as they are spinning fast and have a lot of friction. I have no luck with stainless. It work hardens too much. I've been told there is a special grade that doesn't work harden so much but I can't find any here.
Noticed the jetengine when I visited your workshop last winter. What I didn't realise is that you did build it yourself. Wow, that's a very skilled job!
Thanks, I definitely need to get that engine out and get it running again. It needs a bit of work and the batteries for the fuel pump and the starter motor are probably dead. I have a bad habit of making complicated engines which I might run a handful of times and then I lose interest in them. Regards, Mark
Hi Mark, I would like to set up for zinc plating. Can I check with you that for the black zinc plating I don't need to boil in water like the gold or blue? I noticed in your latest black zinc plating video a few things have changed from your earlier videos, so if I just stick to the latest version will I be doing it the right way? Thanks in advance Mark.
Graham. The Jane Kits' book that I use has very good and detailed instructions on all their metal finishing processes. It's available on their website but it's not exactly cheap. The website shop also has useful information on zinc plating and the gold, blue and black chromate dips. janekits.com.au The instructions I have say that once you dip the parts in the chromate (doesn't matter which colour) you should just hang the parts and let them dry for at least 24 hours. If you handle the surface too soon the colour will smudge and/or wear off. Boiling the parts is not required for any of the chromate dips. I have changed my process a bit for the zinc plating. I now heat the zinc electrolyte and I also run a sparge line which agitates the solution with a small stream of air bubbles. The sparging isn't essential but the heating is desirable. Boling parts is the last step in the anodising process used on aluminium parts after dying. The boiling water closes the pores in the aluminium and it seals the dye into the part surface. Regards, Mark
@@Preso58 Thank you very much for taking the time to explain that to me. It all makes sense and has really helped. I have tried plating over the years without much success. Your method is much better yet achievable for the home hobby person like myself. I will purchase the book from Jane kits.
That plug looks just like the Niphan series we use to install on generators i believe they were made by LPA. Cool to see you with the Joe-Pie Swag he's a good dude
You are correct that the Niphan series of plugs and sockets (may) be compatible. I have contacted a supplier in New Zealand who sell the entire series. The best thing is that they are only about 10 minutes from where my son works. I will do a video update as we go along with that side project. Regards, Mark
Well, now you have me worried but I did rotate the table exactly 180 degrees with a cutter the same diameter as the dowel pin so it should be OK? Regards, Mark
Is concentricity of the cam section essential to more than a three jaw? I have no way of moving the work from the lathe to the rotary table other than theee jaw to three jaw. My lathe has an L0 spindle not really sharable with the rotary table. I guess i can grab a four jaw for the rotary. Thanks Mark, always a pleasure.
Graham, I have one of those fish tank heaters for an acid etching tank that I use for making photoetched brass nameplates. I bought one of the glass tube types since I thought it would stand up to the ferric chloride etchant which is not kind to any metal parts. It only get the solution up to about 10 degrees C above ambient temperature which is OK for ferric chloride. The one that I use for my zinc plating and anodising came from Caswell. I am fairly sure they have discontinued selling them since they can cause fires if the thermostat is not properly immersed in the plating bath. You may be able to buy one from a specialist supplier but you could also try Caswell. They show a tank heater in their anodising kits caswellplating.com/anodizing-products/anodizing-kits.html but they don't seem to list it as a standalone item. Maybe contact them and see if they will sell one on it's own. Regards, Mark
@@Preso58 Thanks again Mark, very helpful, I would have bought a fish tank heater without your advice and just wasted my money. I appreciate your help and will try Caswell.
Thanks Harold. The best thing about this project is that it is pushing me out of my comfort zone, especially with the amount of CAD that I have had to do. The rotary table work is also challenging me. Regards, Mark
Wire a 2or 3 pos switch to that connector and the motors to that switch. If you had a second adapter you just put more wear and tear on the connector pulling in and out all the
Well that settles it ! I am gona have to build the rear tool post/cut off. What a time saver leaving it set up . Watching you switch from champher front tool to parting rear tool almost looked like trick photography it is so smooth. As Chuck always says, "Winner Winner chicken dinner" Also where did you get the fantastic edge finder. Seems like it would be easier to see than the standard ones i have. My eyes are 71 years old. Thanks for bringing us along.
I love being able to switch from plain turning to parting off without having to stop or reverse the spindle. The only thing you have to watch out for is ensuring you have clearance before changing from one operation to the next. I got that edge finder from Hare and Forbes. www.machineryhouse.com.au/m6925 I like that it has both a 10mm and a 4mm diameter for edge finding inside bores. Regards, Mark
That would absolutely work. I actually have a changeover switch that might work but because of the way that you have to rotate the ram on the mill, you would need a lot of slack in the cables to avoid things getting tangled. Regards, Mark
I haven't read through all of the comments, but incase someone hasn't mentioned it. You can take the electrical connector apart and de-solder it and reuse it. Ive done that many times on older heavy duty connectors like that.
The only problem was that the earth pin is a larger diameter than the phase pins. Also the alignment groove in the plug is the reference for the earth pin. If all the pins were the same diameter it would have been much easier. Still, it's a goer now. Regards, Mark
Alberto, I am now on my third 3D printer. I started with a shop made Hadron and then upgraded to a Ender 3. It worked OK for a while but I could never get it to print reliably. I nearly always had to make three prints to get one good one. I finished up buying a Prusa MK3. It was definitely not cheap but it is super reliable and it has a lot of built in brains like crash detection and print resume after a power failure. I love being able to make simple one off jigs and fixtures. Regards, Mark
Hi Preso, Glad you have Joe's challenge plate. A work of art, as is your drill bit grinder jig. Looking forward to the next episode as well as those for the slotting head attachment. You and your family stay safe.
I actually pulled the original plug apart today and when you see the individual pieces, it's not that complicated but without the right insulating materials it could get a bit risky. Regards, Mark
Well done Mark, it’s coming along really well. I know how you feel about the small end mills as I just ordered a replacement 5mm to replace the one I destroyed yesterday. My last video had kangaroos in it as well👍. Cheers Stuart, Canberra.
I wish I were brave enough to take some really heroic cuts with small end mills but no one is paying me by the hour so I can take as many cuts as I want. Thanks for watching, Regards, Mark
Thanks. I think I have found a supplier in New Zealand just a short drive from where my son works. They sell the LPA Niphan series of connectors. I am hoping to get a compatible plug from them. Regards, Mark
With the plug you can't find, cut it off and put a new style socket on the end of it, mini adapter section, and add plugs to suit on other cables.......😁😁👍👍👍
Hey Mark. The position of your index ring lock screw looked to be 180 degrees in the wrong place. When you rotated the lock-ring, the screw went under rather than over, so could foul the table during adjustments. I remember thinking long and hard about the correct position before drilling mine. Of course, you can always remove the assembly to rotate but I do mine without.
I checked the operation of the index ring today and there is plenty of clearance for it to rotate in either direction. I did keep the trunnion plate fairly compact so it doesn't overhang very far at the back. Regards, Mark
👍 ! Nice project , and I can see where a 3D printer is an asset on this one . I think the printer is beyond my capabilities ( something about old dogs and new tricks ) , but I do enjoy watching how it works for you. 😉.
The 3D printers on the market these days are pretty easy to set up and to operate. It's the 3D CAD that gives most people grief. I do like to have a mockup for reference. It saves a lot of wasted time and materials when it comes to cutting metal. Regards, Mark
Just a quick thought!, here in Canada and the USA we use on some types of trailers a 4 wire plug esthetic looks very close you have them in your country?
Yes, but ours have five to seven pins depending on whether the trailer is fitted with electric brakes. I think I may have a supplier though. Regards, Mark
Besides other comments saying that the connector looks like the ones used in trailers, I had great success in using the heavy duty line by neutrik when refurbishing machinery.
Thanks, I have seen various connectors that are sold as trailer plugs and sockets but I wasn't sure if they would be suitable for 415V. I think I have found a supplier in New Zealand who sells the LPA Niphan series of connectors. I will do an update if I get a suitable system for the mill. Regards, Mark
I thougth the hole you drill at 27:21 can go anywere. :-) I will see if I have to do it all over again. I am slowly tinkering along on my own free interpretation, while I watch the video. I do not think a alignment jig is cheating.
Hugh, thanks but I have had a viewer send me a very similar plug. It just needs a minor modification. I will do a follow up when it arrives. Regards, Mark
Greetings from Austin Texas USA Preso. Thank you very much for the shout out and product exposure. I had the pleasure of meeting Guy Lopes a few years back and we've kept in touch ever since. He's a true gentlemen.
Thanks Joe. I must say I was stunned by Guy's generosity. It truly is an honour to be part of the wonderful TH-cam fraternity. Rest assured, your beautiful "torture" device is appreciated and well looked after.
Regards,
Mark
Enjoyed…at the bash I failed on the Joe Pie maze….lol
Thanks Chuck. I can understand. I gave up pretty quickly. I have trouble telling my left from right most days. I will give you a heads up. I have a mockup of a float lock vice like yours waiting for a spot in the workshop. It will have cast aluminium jaws with steel inserts on the faces and the quick setting rack feature in the main bar. I just need to upgrade my furnace burner to diesel fuel and I will be onto it.
Regards,
Mark
I've seen Joe's challenge plate in action and it's brutal. Glad you got a piece of history there in your shop.
Thanks Yuchol. I recall watching your video covering the Bar Z Bash. In truth, I didn't want to embarrass myself by even attempting that particular challenge. This is why I never learned to dance. Can't tell my left from my right!
Regards,
Mark
An idea regarding the plug and socket. It might be worth replacing both parts with a version that is in production instead of sourcing an original part.
That was the fall-back position if I couldn't get a matching plug. Some viewers have sent me catalogues with the current LPA products and I will buy the 4 pin plug first to see if it fits the old socket. If it doesn't I will just buy another plug and the matching socket.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 And if you want to keep the "correct" socket on the machine, you could use a short pigtail to connect the plug you have to a modern socket, as a homegrown adapter. New plugs on anything you want to power, and good to go.
I've been enjoying this series very much. I'd like to build something like this some day. The 3-D printed fixture was a nice idea. Thanks for the shout out, Mark! Really means a lot. 🙂
Thanks Greg. 3D printers are great for one off jigs and fixtures. I cannot wait to be able to sharpen the boxes of blunt drill bits that I have lying around.
Regards,
Mark
WWJPD
"For a jet engine I built", that's it ? Really ? Dropping that line and then silence on subject, shame on you. I expect a follow up on this project and special consideration for your next draw, wink, wink, nudge, nudge.
John 🇨🇦
I got caught up on that too 😂😂
Yeah, sorry about that. The engine hasn't run for nearly 10 years but it is on the list of things to do. The last time I ran it I had a hot start and the nozzle guide vane ring distorted and the turbine wheel is rubbing on the shroud. I have to partly dismantle the engine and bore out the shroud ring so the main shaft will spin freely again. Check out this video if you want to see it running when I first built it back in 2010 th-cam.com/video/N7F4Bp-TcTA/w-d-xo.html
Regards,
Mark
Many extra style points for the recycled Ryco filter body.
If there’s anything on Earth stranger than kangaroos I hope someone points it out. These things look like they come from one of those generative AI programs commanded by a person with an odd sense of humor. I appreciate seeing the footage of them, though. Thanks as always, Mark. Oh, and clever machining solutions, too. If I had a 3D printer I’d print a Joey.
Armadillo.
I am sure there are much weirder animals but I often wonder how hot and sweaty it gets inside that pouch for the poor joey.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 I had exactly the same thought not to mention the odor. Yikes!
Platypus
Joe's milling machine labyrinth Is a really nice gift. Something spcial.
Cute to see the kangaroos at the end. Where we live, we can only see them in te zoo :)
Thanks Michel. It was awfully nice of Guy to send me that package. It's also nice to see someone else's machining work up close. It is a work of art.
Regards,
Mark
Gday Preso, these components turned out great, 3d printed fixtures are really a game changer, I’ve just gotta learn the computer side a bit better first, great job mate, cheers
Thanks Matty. Those new fangled 3D printers will never catch on! 😁
Regards,
Mark
Thank you for putting up Woody's 3D print version! This really helps a lot of us who are short on time.
My rough and ready 3D printed mockup looked like it might actually work as is but substituting some metal bushes and sheet steel flat plates would be perfect for this project. Most of the grinding is fairly light duty so there's no reason why it wouldn't work.
Regards,
Mark
What about add a second plug in parallel with the existing to the spare entry point? A cannon plug would probably be suitable
Good idea but I think I have found a supplier in New Zealand who sells the LPA series of plugs and sockets. I will do a video update if I get it to work.
Regards,
Mark
You might find you get better results if you knurl in one direction only. I usually do it with power feed as well.
Thanks John. I got better results on stainless steel but the brass and aluminium look a bit chewed. I will take your advice on board. I was always taught to knurl material dry but I notice a lot of people using cutting oil. I am thinking that compressed air would be good for blowing any debris out of the knurl so it doesn't track around and build up.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 yes definitely get some air on there to blow out the chips especially on brass. Make sure there is some oil on the wheels as they are spinning fast and have a lot of friction. I have no luck with stainless. It work hardens too much. I've been told there is a special grade that doesn't work harden so much but I can't find any here.
Noticed the jetengine when I visited your workshop last winter. What I didn't realise is that you did build it yourself. Wow, that's a very skilled job!
Thanks, I definitely need to get that engine out and get it running again. It needs a bit of work and the batteries for the fuel pump and the starter motor are probably dead. I have a bad habit of making complicated engines which I might run a handful of times and then I lose interest in them.
Regards,
Mark
Hi Mark, I would like to set up for zinc plating. Can I check with you that for the black zinc plating I don't need to boil in water like the gold or blue? I noticed in your latest black zinc plating video a few things have changed from your earlier videos, so if I just stick to the latest version will I be doing it the right way? Thanks in advance Mark.
Graham. The Jane Kits' book that I use has very good and detailed instructions on all their metal finishing processes. It's available on their website but it's not exactly cheap. The website shop also has useful information on zinc plating and the gold, blue and black chromate dips. janekits.com.au
The instructions I have say that once you dip the parts in the chromate (doesn't matter which colour) you should just hang the parts and let them dry for at least 24 hours. If you handle the surface too soon the colour will smudge and/or wear off. Boiling the parts is not required for any of the chromate dips.
I have changed my process a bit for the zinc plating. I now heat the zinc electrolyte and I also run a sparge line which agitates the solution with a small stream of air bubbles. The sparging isn't essential but the heating is desirable.
Boling parts is the last step in the anodising process used on aluminium parts after dying. The boiling water closes the pores in the aluminium and it seals the dye into the part surface.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 Thank you very much for taking the time to explain that to me. It all makes sense and has really helped. I have tried plating over the years without much success. Your method is much better yet achievable for the home hobby person like myself. I will purchase the book from Jane kits.
💐💐🕋⛳⛳💚💚🙏🙏🥀🕍🕍🕍🕍🕍🕍🕍🕍
That plug looks just like the Niphan series we use to install on generators i believe they were made by LPA. Cool to see you with the Joe-Pie Swag he's a good dude
You are correct that the Niphan series of plugs and sockets (may) be compatible. I have contacted a supplier in New Zealand who sell the entire series. The best thing is that they are only about 10 minutes from where my son works. I will do a video update as we go along with that side project.
Regards,
Mark
Mark did you compensate your arc length by the value of your pin diameter?
If not, you may be short of your 180 deg.
Well, now you have me worried but I did rotate the table exactly 180 degrees with a cutter the same diameter as the dowel pin so it should be OK?
Regards,
Mark
Is concentricity of the cam section essential to more than a three jaw? I have no way of moving the work from the lathe to the rotary table other than theee jaw to three jaw. My lathe has an L0 spindle not really sharable with the rotary table. I guess i can grab a four jaw for the rotary. Thanks Mark, always a pleasure.
Mark, I have another question if you don't mind. Could I use a fish tank heater? I can't find a heater on the Jane kit site.
Graham, I have one of those fish tank heaters for an acid etching tank that I use for making photoetched brass nameplates. I bought one of the glass tube types since I thought it would stand up to the ferric chloride etchant which is not kind to any metal parts. It only get the solution up to about 10 degrees C above ambient temperature which is OK for ferric chloride. The one that I use for my zinc plating and anodising came from Caswell. I am fairly sure they have discontinued selling them since they can cause fires if the thermostat is not properly immersed in the plating bath.
You may be able to buy one from a specialist supplier but you could also try Caswell. They show a tank heater in their anodising kits caswellplating.com/anodizing-products/anodizing-kits.html but they don't seem to list it as a standalone item. Maybe contact them and see if they will sell one on it's own.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 Thanks again Mark, very helpful, I would have bought a fish tank heater without your advice and just wasted my money. I appreciate your help and will try Caswell.
That drill bit grinder is very interesting. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Thanks Harold. The best thing about this project is that it is pushing me out of my comfort zone, especially with the amount of CAD that I have had to do. The rotary table work is also challenging me.
Regards,
Mark
Wire a 2or 3 pos switch to that connector and the motors to that switch. If you had a second adapter you just put more wear and tear on the connector pulling in and out all the
Well that settles it ! I am gona have to build the rear tool post/cut off. What a time saver leaving it set up . Watching you switch from champher front tool to parting rear tool almost looked like trick photography it is so smooth. As Chuck always says, "Winner Winner chicken dinner" Also where did you get the fantastic edge finder. Seems like it would be easier to see than the standard ones i have. My eyes are 71 years old. Thanks for bringing us along.
I love being able to switch from plain turning to parting off without having to stop or reverse the spindle. The only thing you have to watch out for is ensuring you have clearance before changing from one operation to the next. I got that edge finder from Hare and Forbes. www.machineryhouse.com.au/m6925 I like that it has both a 10mm and a 4mm diameter for edge finding inside bores.
Regards,
Mark
Hi Mark, for coolant / lubricant when machining or reaming aluminium, try kerosene (paraffin). Should improve your surface finish.
I will often use WD40 but according to Stefan Gotteswinter, Isopropyl Alcohol is the best coolant/lubricant for aluminium.
Regards,
Mark
Why not use 1 plug and install a switch to swap between motors?
That would absolutely work. I actually have a changeover switch that might work but because of the way that you have to rotate the ram on the mill, you would need a lot of slack in the cables to avoid things getting tangled.
Regards,
Mark
I haven't read through all of the comments, but incase someone hasn't mentioned it. You can take the electrical connector apart and de-solder it and reuse it. Ive done that many times on older heavy duty connectors like that.
The only problem was that the earth pin is a larger diameter than the phase pins. Also the alignment groove in the plug is the reference for the earth pin. If all the pins were the same diameter it would have been much easier. Still, it's a goer now.
Regards,
Mark
Nice work 👌
Cheers Chris
Ciao Mark, very nice job: i love the 3D blue stuff that you used to bring the round part on the vise!! See you soon, Alberto
Alberto,
I am now on my third 3D printer. I started with a shop made Hadron and then upgraded to a Ender 3. It worked OK for a while but I could never get it to print reliably. I nearly always had to make three prints to get one good one. I finished up buying a Prusa MK3. It was definitely not cheap but it is super reliable and it has a lot of built in brains like crash detection and print resume after a power failure. I love being able to make simple one off jigs and fixtures.
Regards,
Mark
Hi Preso,
Glad you have Joe's challenge plate. A work of art, as is your drill bit grinder jig. Looking forward to the next episode as well as those for the slotting head attachment. You and your family stay safe.
Thanks. Joe does some fine work. And, it's so shiny!
Regards,
Mark
About the connector, how about making one? would make good video if you can document the process.
I actually pulled the original plug apart today and when you see the individual pieces, it's not that complicated but without the right insulating materials it could get a bit risky.
Regards,
Mark
Well done Mark, it’s coming along really well. I know how you feel about the small end mills as I just ordered a replacement 5mm to replace the one I destroyed yesterday. My last video had kangaroos in it as well👍. Cheers Stuart, Canberra.
I wish I were brave enough to take some really heroic cuts with small end mills but no one is paying me by the hour so I can take as many cuts as I want.
Thanks for watching,
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 Yep 👍👍👍
absolute pleasure to watch
Beautiful machine work, amazing to view.... :) thank you..
just get an electrician or yourself to fit a PDL or CEE form socket on the machine
Thanks. I think I have found a supplier in New Zealand just a short drive from where my son works. They sell the LPA Niphan series of connectors. I am hoping to get a compatible plug from them.
Regards,
Mark
With the plug you can't find, cut it off and put a new style socket on the end of it, mini adapter section, and add plugs to suit on other cables.......😁😁👍👍👍
Thx for the vid.
6:50 Maybe you could duplicate that connector?
Possibly, but I am no electrical engineer and I want it to be safe and idiot proof!
Regards,
Mark
Thank you.
Hey Mark. The position of your index ring lock screw looked to be 180 degrees in the wrong place. When you rotated the lock-ring, the screw went under rather than over, so could foul the table during adjustments. I remember thinking long and hard about the correct position before drilling mine. Of course, you can always remove the assembly to rotate but I do mine without.
I checked the operation of the index ring today and there is plenty of clearance for it to rotate in either direction. I did keep the trunnion plate fairly compact so it doesn't overhang very far at the back.
Regards,
Mark
👍 ! Nice project , and I can see where a 3D printer is an asset on this one . I think the printer is beyond my capabilities ( something about old dogs and new tricks ) , but I do enjoy watching how it works for you. 😉.
The 3D printers on the market these days are pretty easy to set up and to operate. It's the 3D CAD that gives most people grief. I do like to have a mockup for reference. It saves a lot of wasted time and materials when it comes to cutting metal.
Regards,
Mark
Just a quick thought!, here in Canada and the USA we use on some types of trailers a 4 wire plug esthetic looks very close you have them in your country?
Yes, but ours have five to seven pins depending on whether the trailer is fitted with electric brakes. I think I may have a supplier though.
Regards,
Mark
Besides other comments saying that the connector looks like the ones used in trailers, I had great success in using the heavy duty line by neutrik when refurbishing machinery.
Thanks, I have seen various connectors that are sold as trailer plugs and sockets but I wasn't sure if they would be suitable for 415V. I think I have found a supplier in New Zealand who sells the LPA Niphan series of connectors. I will do an update if I get a suitable system for the mill.
Regards,
Mark
Its coming along Mark. Again some nice machining going on there, well done.
Thanks Jon. Having a rotary table has unlocked a lot of potential. I don't know how I got along without one for so long.
Regards,
Mark
Love the parting tool!!
And you don't even need to stop or reverse the spindle when switching from parting to chamfering.
Regards,
Mark
I thougth the hole you drill at 27:21 can go anywere. :-) I will see if I have to do it all over again. I am slowly tinkering along on my own free interpretation, while I watch the video. I do not think a alignment jig is cheating.
You're right Timo, that alignment jig is the opposite of cheating. Good practice.
Timo, that was just me being pedantic. 3D printed jigs and fixtures have saved my bacon on many occasions.
Regards,
Mark
Such an elegant build. Loving this project and the care being taken. Thank you for sharing 👏👏👍😀
LPA-NIPHAN-INDUSTRIAL-CONNECTORS-BROCHURE-2020-MID-single-pages-compressed.pdf, page 5
Hugh, thanks but I have had a viewer send me a very similar plug. It just needs a minor modification. I will do a follow up when it arrives.
Regards,
Mark