A 4 Facet Drill Bit Grinder DIY Style Part 1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ก.พ. 2023
- Sharpening small drill bits is always a challenge for me. I have tried various tools, commercially made as well as shop made solutions but almost always I am disappointed with the results. This shop made tool looks very promising.
It's not my design. It is my version of a tool made by John Moran AKA Gadgetbuilder. You can find the original article here gadgetbuilder.com/DrillSharp.... - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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Mark, you had me at 4 Facet! I'll put my hand up for a plan when you are ready. I'm looking forward to your build!
Thanks Peter. I am slowly adding all the edits to the drawings. It's amazing how many dimensions get missed along the way.
Regards,
Mark
Gday Preso, this looks an interesting build and good use of the Quorn, the Roos are thick here at the moment, there bloody everywhere, cheers
We have "just the right number of roos" here. Three or four at the most and they don't eat our trees so that's good. I badly wanted to use the Quorn grinding spindle for something. I can mount it on the compound in my lathe as a toolpost grinder but it's ideally suited to the drill grinding project so it's not a wasted effort after all.
Regards,
Mark
Hi mark
This is the first project that i watched on your channel
I realy like how calm you film,explain, and edit everything
Most channels are filled with 5 second shots and a lot of zooming wich makes me seasick
Thank for sharing and best wishes from Holland
Well, thanks for the feedback. I often get criticised for talking too much but I think that knowing why things are done is just as important as showing how it is done.
Regards,
Mark
One minute into the video and I know I need to build one....Nice project!
Thanks Mark !
I think it has a lot of potential. There are a couple of other accessories which allow you to do point splitting and also making 6 facet geometry. I just hope my eyes are good enough to do the smaller sized drill bits.
Regards,
Mark
G’day Mark. My name is Andrew and I live in Brissie. I’ve just finished Stage 1 of my version of the drill bit grinder. Most of it will look very familiar but I’ve made a few changes (as you do). It can take ER32 and ER40 collets and has a 150mm grinding cup. The table is about 300x200mm and has a sideway movement range of about 100mm. It can take a few other accessories I have in mind for end mill sharpening etc. I also have a different method of indexing by just flipping the collet block 180 degrees (or 90 degrees) using register pins.
I’ve only sharpened one bit so far (4 facets) but I’m very happy with it. Thanks for the effort you put in and the inspiration you provided.
Andrew, I did wonder if it were possible to scale up the basic geometry of the machine. It took a while for me to understand the way the work axes had to align to guarantee the intersection of the four facets. I just finished up on my grinder today and I was able to successfully grind a 3/32" twist drill. I would NEVER be able to do this by hand and it was quite gratifying to know that I can now get repeatable sharp cutting edges on my boxes of blunt and damaged drill bits. I would be keen to see your version when you get yours finished. You can find my email address in the "about" tab of my TH-cam home page.
Regards,
Mark
Looks to be an interesting project Mark. I sharpen my drill bits freehand using guide lines on my grinder's rest. But, I jig like this will make those grinds even and accurate. Can't wait for Part 2.
Good score on the shaper attachment. That will give you shaping capability without taking up space with a completely separate machine.
Thanks Jon. I still want a proper shaper though! And a surface grinder. 😁
Regards,
Mark
I’ve recently discovered the value of mock-ups as my powers of visualization have taken a major hit in the last couple of years. God save me if I have to visualize something flipped and rotated. May as well be Fermat’s Last Theorem. Nice footage from the nature preserve out back.
I understand totally. That's why I never learned to dance!
Regards,
Mark
Thanks for the scene of the garden bridge! That was one of my favorite projects of yours. I look forward to the next episode of the bit grinder.
Thanks. The bridge is still one of my favourite outdoor projects.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 Growing up in the 50s, Vixie, Nixie, Lixie and Mixie are my favorite indoor projects followed closely by the Titan .60.
Marc, in 2018 I studied and thoroughly examined the sharpening of drills, but I stick to the clone copy of the dekel S0 toolgrinder. After reverse enginering I adjusted it, did all the calculations and with a small hardware adjustment I can now sharpen all drills from 3 to 18mm diameter with 4 facets. I have yet to make a video and documentation on the final adjustments with a quick-release clamp. Yes, I also found the documentation from John Moran 5 years ago, but I had a drill sharpening tool PPU-3, but the accompanying documentation was never clear. You can find more about this on my you-tube channel, including documentation.
I wish you continued success with the construction of the Moran drill sharpener
Thanks for that. I have actually downloaded your excellent article on modifying the Deckel clone drill sharpener attachment and it is on my to do list of projects. I would like to have an alternative method for sharpening drill bits and although I had used the Quorn T&C grinder to do a 4 facet grind on some medium sized drill bits it was always a bit fiddly to set up. I have also seen Stefan Gotteswinter use the Deckel clone to grind a 4 facet point on a solid carbide drill bit but it really only works if you have a 5C collet for each drill diameter that you want to sharpen. I think the John Moran version will be simple to use although he states that about 1/16" is the lower limit due to bending loads on the drill at that size.
Regards,
Mark
Awesome …… another fine Preso Project where I can’t wait for the next episode. 👍👍😎👍👍
great video Preso, I love your planning and using the mock up to work problems and mirroring. (I have a left-handed band saw, yet I am a righty) so I hear you clearly on the subject. Thanks for the too and bird shots, very interesting, and cheers!
G'day Mark. Love that slotting head you bought for your milling machine. Congratulations, that is awesome mate. Cheers, Aaron.
Thanks Aaron. I actually have a slotting head from a Pacific mill but it is driven from the horizontal spindle and at first I thought I might be able to retrofit it somehow. I gave up on the idea fairly quickly. I think you have a Pacific mill in your workshop? The Bridgeport style slotter is a much easier fit for me. You get a mention on the next instalment on this series.... That's all I'm saying for now. 😁
Regards,
Mark
Enjoyed…great discussion/demonstration/build
I've had Gadgetbuilder's drill grinder plans in my TODO stash for an embarrassingly long time. Really looking forward to this build!
Yes, me too. I am glad to be finally getting on with this project.
Regards,
Mark
Looking forward to the rest of this interesting project. Thx for the vid.
Oh shit! Oh shit! Oh shit!! This is just the project I (did'nt) needed to keep me busy in the shop!!! Like you said in the intro, getting bigger bits sharpened is easily done by hand. At school we trained on 3/8" bits to get a feel and anything 1/4" up is pretty easy but 3/16" down requires a super soft touch and a good grinder with no wobble or vibrations! A nice dedicated grinder like this is just right up my alley!!
BTW, always love the garden shots... The wildlife is so wild in your area compared to us! Greets from Canada!!
I said the exact same thing!
I am glad you are interested in the project. There is a 3D printed version of this drill grinder which may suit some folk who don't want to do a lot of machining. I am including a link to that version in the next video. A lot of the parts could be laser cut too. If you can get a service bureau to cut the sheet and flat parts it would be a fairly simple build. I am looking forward to grinding a lot of dull bits under 1/4". I think the practical limit is 1/16".
Regards,
Mark
This is long awaited project, Mark! I am subscribed ...
Great video Mark, keep'um coming..
Always learn something from your videos Mark! Love the 'roos and the birds! Spring is busting out here in Texas!
Thanks Jay. Got a big close up of your sticker in the next video!
Regards,
Mark
That's a very interesting project. With a lot of thinking before cutting :)
I appreciate the level of detail you went through on this first video. Very thorough.
Very interesting as usual. Thanks very much Mr. Presling!
That is an interesting project. Thanks for sharing it with us.
Love youre Channel, thanks for sharing. Best wishes from Lübeck Germany.
Cool project!
You can just use your deckel grinder to do this job. It came with a 5c collet holder that has built in indexing.
Trust me, I tried to use the Toolmaster D bit grinder but I didn't have the 5C collets I needed at the time. I have bought a few more but getting imperial size 5C collets is a bit of a mission. I thought I might be able to get a 25mm 5C collet and mount the ER20 collet chuck in it but I just couldn't see how it was going to fit. I know you can use the D bit grinder for 4 facet grinds if you have the right collet. I have seen Stefan do it. But you'd need to have a million collets to make it work for number and letter drills.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 yeah I bought a full set of metric ones from H&F. They are handy because I have a 5c chuck as well. 5c is a pain though because they aren't as flexible as the more modern collets. The drill attachment isn's as bad as everyone says. I set it up sometimes and have had good results on monster drills. I found the 4 facet method sometimes gave me clearance issues and wasn't great. Probably I was doing it wrong.
I have a confession to make. I own a Drill Doctor and I do use it to sharpen my cheap junk import drill bits. It was $5 new in the box at an estate sale so I figured I'd try it and for general hand drilling it's Ok.
I own a Drill Doctor too and it's hopeless. I just freehand bits on a bench grinder. Good enough.
I have used a Drill Doctor clone that belonged to a friend and even though it was 90% made of plastic it still did a surprisingly good job. However, in my view, a 4 facet grind on a drill bit is superior to a factory grind. They start easily, wander less and in most cases you don't need to pilot drill.
Regards,
Mark
You mentioned you already have a Deckel clone universal grinder. You just needed to buy a cheap 5c to ER adaptor and you can do 4 facet grinds easily with it, on any sized drill bit. Today I did a 4 facet grind on a small 2mm drill bit with it. It's great.
Cool build though, it'll help others.
I did investigate getting a suitable adapter to take ER collets but there isn't sufficient room between the work head and the wheel on my Deckel clone to make it work. I have sharpened drill bits using the supplied 5C collets but I don't have a lot of them and you need one for every sized drill bit that you are likely to want to sharpen.
Regards,
Mark
Thanks for sharing 👍 Great selection of music 🎶
We are both about the same vintage and I also have attempted a couple of times to make a small drill sharpener. I hope your design works as I need a new project.
Hi Preso,
Looking great. Not doubt you will soon be sharping those drill bits with ease. Everyone there stay safe.
I hope so. I cannot begin to count the number of projects that were ruined from using blunt, chipped or otherwise butchered drill bits.
Regards,
Mark
Nice project.
Very interesting project. Should be fun to watch it come together.
Thanks Greg! Your sticker goes up on the door in the next episode😁
Regards,
Mark
Just 2 things to have right for drill grinding and that is the point angle and the centrality of the bit......the point angle is got with a simple plate angle gauge and the centrality of the point is by laying the drill bit on a flat surface and checking the chisel point against a ruler.......that is if you hand grind drill bits so back off is an eyeball thing. and comes with practice.
I'm going to give the 4-facet point geometry a go as soon as I finish the T&C grinder I'm building.
Without bragging I can hand grind a 12mm drill bit to drill a 12mm diam hole that a 12mm piece of rod will be a press fit in.
Another trick for drill hole sizing is if you slightly grind one cutting edge off centre it will bore the hole bigger.
BTW.....for sharpening all small drill bits from 3mm down to .5mm I use a Wishbone type drill lapper and a diamond lap.......the Wishbone drill lapper or grinder.....whatever.....was popular in the 50's so I made one for sharpening all my small drill bites..
Ian, I recall seeing the advertisements for the wishbone grinding accessory in the old Model Engineer magazines. The only thing I don't like about a lot of the DIY drill grinders (and the wishbone style) is that you need a lot of specialised collets. I think the wishbone only came with 4 and when you start trying to grind letter and number drills it might be an issue. ER collets are relatively cheap these days and they cover a massive range of sizes.
Regards,
Mark
Really small drill bits you can sharpen like a pencil. I mean really small bits. Below about #60. Once they're that small it doesn't matter any more. As long as they're sharp they'll cut.
I am extremely envious of your new purchase as I have been looking for a slotting head for my Bridgeport for over a year now. It's hard getting machinery like this here in Aus.
Regarding sharpening drill bits on the clone D bit grinder, I have done all the modifications that was suggested by Luc Wybo and still with not much great success. Having 2 draws of drill bits, I am very keen on seeing your project thru and hopefully when you've completed it I would love to take you up on the offer of the plans.
Love your work and detailed videos. Cheers.
Thanks Bill. I have the article produced by Luc Wybo sitting on my desk and I was keen to do the mods on the D Bit grinder drill sharpening attachment but I thought I should try the 4 facet method first. A 4 facet grind has a lot of advantages over a commercial factory grind. The start more accurately and produce less heat. You are welcome to the drawings when I have ironed out all the missing dimensions and updates.
Regards,
Mark
Yep this is a good one. Only problem I have is I just purchased a Vevor except its not as small as I would have liked. I also would like to put my hand up for the prints on this if you get them done. love your ideas. I am making the furnace now and just finished the control box. Cant wait to melt something!!
Thanks. I saw a couple of reviews of the Vevor drill sharpener and I think they are a great solution. Unfortunately, I had already committed to making the 4 facet grinder and I had actually just finished when I saw the first of the Vevor reviews. You can find the drawings here www.dropbox.com/sh/38ahn5tz4qw5ypw/AACtAbmXNDYa4x0v9DD1NcEOa?dl=0
My furnace drawing is here www.dropbox.com/s/j7bopx7noxi96vn/Mark%27s%20Foundry%20Furnace.pdf?dl=0 Good luck with the build.
Regards,
Mark
This is capitalising on a bygone era of the internet. I can remember during the 90s using such self published websites as a source of information. Finding such gems these days is not as common.
Floors are so hard in Australia. I feel you brother
It’s the extra gravity needed to stop things floating away when you are the wrong way up.
@@simonbirt6121 Here I always thought that down under the floor was on the ceiling.
Looking great so far. I have at least 1kg of small bits I can't throw out, but want to sharpen one day. I'm keen to see this in operation. I would be interested in some drawings and/or invented files if possible.
I have both the inventor 3D models and the 2D drawings. I will put them up on a file sharing site when I am done. For free! 😁
Regards,
Mark
Thanks
Bloody flys.😁😁. Will be taking notes on this one mate.
I know. That was a March Fly buzzing around the camera. Those things bite and I am allergic to them. I hate them!
Regards,
Mark
I like how quick it is to perform a sanity check with the 3d model
Trust me. It pays dividends to have a 3D reference before you do something really stupid.
Regards,
Mark
I spent some time in dialogue with John Moran to create a 3D printed version of his sharpener. He has shown my finished 3D version on his examples page and has put a link to my blog where you can download my Fusion files, drawings and STEP models. The 3D printed version works very well and saves a lot of metal related activity.
Thanks for sharing the files, just downloaded them. I have a fiber laser cutter so can cut all the sheet metal parts on that. Only the holes for the pivot pins need to be reamed, all other holes should be OK with laser cut tolerances as far as I can tell.
@@epilotdk Sounds like you are well resourced for it. I was intending to CNC cut the trunnion plate but in the end took the lazy option and Spray Mount glued the 1:1 paper pdf drawing of the hole locations and outline onto the blank plate. I then marked the centres with an optical centre punch and drilled them through so not exactly precision and it works fine. Your laser should be as good if not better.
There is an update tweak on my blog regarding the 3D printed collet holder where I decided to add a metal sleeve so the collet holder slid back and forth more smoothly than on the raw PLA print. That aside the sharpener is very reliable and is an asset that I would not be without. Well worth the effort.
Alan, I will do a more detailed follow up on your design and the blog before finishing up on this playlist. I am sure it will be of interest to a lot of makers.
Regards,
Mark
You have my attention. Thank you for sharing something completely different and inspiring.
I am just getting into machining aluminum and have lots to learn. Could I ask what cutting fluid employed for the aluminum/knee mill sequence and why you don't bother with it on the lathe? Stephan G. always has a squeeze bottle of isopropyl at the ready and, as you may know, just did a small vid of the benefits of its use and the significant improvement to surface finish on Aluminum tooling. I am planning on using compressed air with a mist arrangement. I would love to use flood coolant to prevent the scattering of swarf, but the machine is really not designed for it.
Best regards. Chris
Chris, I had intended to use isopropyl alcohol as a coolant/lubricant for that machining operation and when I went to get the spray bottle I found it had gone brittle and was leaking. I think Stefan alluded to that in his video. I tried to purchase a more resilient container with a trigger spray but came up blank. The one I had been using was about 6 years old but I hate buying plastic products and then just throwing them away when they fail. We have enough plastics in our environment already. The water soluble coolant does a reasonable job but it is messy and it can stain and rust some surfaces. The IPA just evaporates and doesn't leave any residue. The only good thing about Covid is that there are now cheap and plentiful supplies of IPA on the market! All that hand sanitiser!
Regards,
Mark
I'm about halfway through (but stuck on side projects) making a similar purpose sharpener, using a U2 grinder holder to give me a complete range of angles. But to increase the flexibility I'm putting it on X any Y rails. I have no idea if it will work, if it doesn't I convert over to your design
Hello Mark. Excellent job on the drill grinder. I have several T & C grinders and use 4 facet grinding on drills as well. Long ago I bought a Beaver slotting attachment for loco wheel keyways. It works great and makes square holes in boring bars. Would you like a collumn in my up coming magazine? BC
I had to check out the Beaver mill on the Lathes.co.uk site. The slotting head looks very similar to the one I have. I tried and failed to make a decent slotting attachment for my lathe and it sort of works but cranking a lever by hand to make a deep keyway gets old very quickly. I'm happy to contribute to your magazine. I am fairly sure I visited the Warner track many years ago. I had a mentor named Bob Kimber when I was teaching in Maryborough and I think I met up with him at the Warner track one day. A very nice bloke and a very talented model engineer. That would have been back in 1987 so maybe he's not with us any more.
Regards,
Mark
Mark, do you use that grinder head as a toolpost grinder, too?
Yes, I can mount it on the lathe but so far, I haven't used it for any projects.
Regards,
Mark
SALUT
MERCI DU CANADA
Merci d'avoir regardé
Preso
Total agree re those large drill bit sharpeners, I have different eclipse and other makes very similar all equally hard to setup, I have scrapped many bits trying. If you have a Deckel style tool grinder, is it also a pain to setup for drill? Personally I also like single purpose machines too but was wondering about one of these deckel copies as I struggle to do accurate lathe tool grinding and hoped it might do both drills and HSS lathe tooling
I have the Deckel clone D-Bit grinder and it came with an accessory for sharpening square HSS but you do need to make some adapters for the smaller sizes like 1/4" and 5/16". Mine also came with a few 5C collets but definitely not a full set. You can do a 4 facet grind as well but only if you have the collets for each drill size you want to sharpen.
Regards,
Mark
Great project again Mark. Loved the kangaroo silhouettes in your garden as well! Did you have those lasercut?
No, they were CNC plasma cut. I made the vector files from some digital photos and sent the files to a local sheet metal company. The two bigger ones have been welded from two parts. Since I was paying for the whole sheets of Corten steel. I used the scrap to make the stakes that get hammered into the ground and I also got a couple of bird silhouettes for the back fence.
Regards,
Mark
@Preso58 Thanks Mark, thinking of making some of my own as well to bring a bit of Australia to our Dutch garden. Nice for the Mrs to bring a bit of home to her 🙂 Those vector files, is that something you would like to share 😊
Don't want to be bitten by an Australian grasshopper :)
You mentioned the Quorn tool grinder.
I have been contemplating building one but making weldments instead of buying castings. I figured I could also use the head as a tool post grinder.
You did not sound happy with the Quorn, is it a waste of effort , or could the shortcomings be designed out at this point?
I didn't like it because it was difficult to see the graduations on the scales and quite tedious to set up. The locking mechanisms never quite worked 100% either. Building it as per the published plans means making about 20 ball levers too. If I were to do it again, I would use a different style of clamping mechanism of the type that George Thomas specified for his tools like the sensitive drill head to go on the tapping and staking tool. I think it is one of those "right of passage' projects that a lot of model engineers like to have a go at but it's a lot of work and the Deckel clone D Bit grinders do a better job in my view.
Regards,
Mark.
Mark I really like your channel. It's one of my favorites because of the way you go about explaining what it is you're trying to do. But, ya know a new top of the line 750X Drill Doctor is only about $150 USD? And it will sharpen drill bits from 3/32nds to 3/4" ? I use mine all the time and it works great sharpening all of my drill bits.
Yes, but as a fellow hobbyist, if all I want to do is buy things someone else has made, I don't need any of my tools. Part of the hobby, for me, not speaking for Mark, is to have fun and make your own tools.
My Drill Dr does a poor job of small drills😢
This is a four facet grind, which is better than the standard factory rotated grind, and vastly superior to what a Drill Doctor does. And it can split the point, too.
A friend of mine purchased a non genuine drill doctor and I helped him set it up and grind a few drill bits. I was surprised at how well it worked. The thing about a 4 facet grind is that it is less prone to cause the drill centre to wander and it take less power to drill the hole because there is no chisel edge. I do like making my own tools though. It forces one out of one's comfort zone and it's the ideal way to learn new skills.
Regards,
Mark
Would this also work on 4 fluted endmills ?? I would prefer a carbide endmill sharpening grinder over a drill bit sharpener. Carbide endmills are a lot more expensive to replace. If this grinder could do both up to 12mm endmills and drills that would be a money saver.
You could probably adapt it for the ends but I don't think it would work on its' own. Also, it's not enough just to sharpen the end of an endmill. If you think about the way they cut, it's the bottom corner and the flutes that do most of the work on most cuts, unless you're plunging. My endmills all go dull on the edges, not the ends. And that's where you always chip them. If you ever try, remember most endmills also have a setback centre, ie they don't centre cut.
@@HairyNumbNuts I do not want them to become as good as new on all cutting sides as that would be almost impossible , just get the corners and end back to decent sharpness.....prolong their life for some time before replacing them. The smaller ones are not that expensive and probably to difficult to sharpen using this grinder......but the 8, 10 and 12 mm ones i use a lot ( 2 and 4 fluted). They can cost up to 40-50 dollar for the better ones. I also do not wat to spend 6-800 dollar without shipment for a chinese endmill grinder.
I guess you could sharpen smallish end mills but I am thinking that there is not a lot of rigidity in this arrangement. Once the grinding area goes up it will cause a lot of chatter and vibration, especially on carbide. However there is nothing stopping you from increasing the plate thicknesses and using some heavy linear rail for the traverse mechanism.
Regards,
Mark
Very interesting build. Is there any commercially made unit similar to that? If not, I have a fiber laser cutter, a CNC lathe and a CNC mill.......
I am not sure if there is a commercially made version of this tool. The most common type is the Drill Doctor but the most annoying issue with a lot of drill grinding attachments is the need to have lots of collets for each size of drill bit. Using ER collets means that you can sharpen almost any drill bit from 1/16" up to 1/2" including number and letter drills. Standard ER20 collets are cheap and even bad quality ones are good enough for this application. Certainly, having laser cut and CNC machined parts would make this project a breeze.
Regards,
Mark
I'm allergic but, thank you!
👏👏👌
Hmm, so interesting, so accessible for a hobby machinist 🤔…
have seen the truck ?
maybe he used the pallet-jack from perth
Maybe, he was a pretty fit looking guy!
Regards,
Mark
Mark … I also built a quorn…. I hat mine as well … It suffers from being being able to do many many grinding task but none of them with ease… looks like I will have to copy another of your projects …
I really enjoyed making my Quorn and then when I actually went to use it I was a bit disappointed. It could be characterised as being "fiddly". I spent so long making all those ball handles and then found out that they actually don't lock all that well. At least the grinding spindle works well.
Regards,
Mark
Um don't you have a d bit grinder- it does 4 facet easily!
Interesting design though and looks like it would be easier to set up than the Dbit grinder.
I do have a D bit grinder but you need a ton of collets to cover all the metric, number and letter drill sizes. I have seen Stefan Gotteswinter using his D bit grinder to do a 4 facet grind but I only have a handful of 5C collets and imperial ones are hard to come by (here in the metric world anyway).
Regards,
Mark
Hello Mark I,ll like to build the 4 facet drillbit grinder how do i get the drawings?
You can download the full set of drawings from my Dropbox www.dropbox.com/home/Public/4%20Facet%20Drill%20Grinder%20Resources
They are free.
Regards,
Mark
Looks interesting Mark, thank you for converting from banana 🍌 measurements 👍😀
Sure thing comrade. Have a nice stay at the gulag.
Now now, we can all coexist and learn each others preferred metrological units!😁
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 I am opposed to metric on ideological grounds. Plus I just can't stand how the graduations look on a metric scale. So there's that too. Standard is based on the duodecimal system. As we all know duo is the prefix for two. So clearly standard is twice as good as any decimal based system can be. Unfortunately one must be a polymath genius to fully appreciate standard and so few really are.
Have you got an aviary in your workshop or are they wild birds "talking" over you Mark?
Always lovely wild bird noise in Preso's vids... I'm here for that as much as the machining!
I’ve wondered the same thing about Max Grant’s videos. There’s generally quite a bit of birdsong.
Glenn, we live on acreage adjacent to a national park. We have a lot of tall eucalypt trees and my wife is slowly replanting a lot of local native shrub and grass species to attract the wildlife to our house. We sort of take the birds sounds for granted but when we are on holidays overseas we often notice that you don't hear a lot of birds. Sometimes the cockatoos and kookaburras can be a bit loud an raucous but it's still nice to hear the different species. We were walking in the national park a few days ago and could hear catbirds. They sound exactly like cats!
Okay, he built a Quorn, then bought a Deckel clone, and now building a custom drill bit grinder, what am I missing here ?
I like making things. The Quorn never lived up to the hype in my view. I found it difficult to use and without the helical groove around the main column it was hard to set accurately to height. At the time I made it I didn't have the facilities to machine that easily so I left it out. Also, the Deckel Clone D Bit grinder is a wonderfully versatile machine but it's not great for sharpening small drill bits. You can sharpen medium sized bits as long as you have a 5C collet of the same size but it is a pain with letter and number drill sizes. The 4 facet grinder can cope with any sized bit from about 2mm up to 12mm and everything in between.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 thanks for that reply. Just trying to figure out the pro,s and con,s. I realize this machine you built is for drills.
Thanks.
Yo, nice to see a vid, i just watched your furnace build in want of some of your content, and here you come, delivering... Also, imagine asking 1.5k for a thing and you ship it covered in crud and dust... for fucks sakes, wipe it down with petrol, spray it with grease and wrap it in butchers paper or clingwrap... i mean, if the ignorance leads to low price, sure, great... But selling a thing for 1.5k, it at least warrants a dusting off with a rag...
Unfortunately, it's a seller's market for used equipment here in Australia. There isn't a lot of good stuff to choose from and I was just grateful that the slotter turned up undamaged and it only took a week to get to my door.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 I get it, but thats my point, its the fucking resellers who pick up such parts, for coins a piece, never even spray the things down with wd40 and some chainsaw oil to help them remain rust free, and spit a price that starts at 1.5k pretty much for any machine component... I pick up random machine parts from scrapyards that i see are useful to me or anyone else and i take my time, scrub them down with brass scrunchy, brass wire wheel and diesel+atf soak, just to see the state of the thing and to cover it in grease/oil/wax depending on how long its gonna sit before i use or sell it... Recently i picked up 2 large shell mills, ``sandvik modul mill`` with 50iso shanks... A few specks of oxide on the shell, and generally well maintained shanks covered in grease... Ill keep the shells, as they are 400 dollars used to get them where i live, and i picked up both for 20 bucks.... I could resell them for 40x profit, even 55x if i sell them as whole thing with the shank each... But i have a large mill, and a sandvik barely used shell is a prize i aint giving away... The shanks are no good to me, as my machinery uses iso40, not 50, so those are soaking in diesel+atf to clean off any grease, chips and what not from the crevices... I wont be selling the shanks dirty for 100 dollars each like a reseller would, but around 60 each, as they are sandvik made, checked out, cleaned and protected from atmo. until used by the new owner...
Look like we have very simmilar taste for the tools 🙂
I'm looking at that same gadgetbuilder page for almost 10 years, and it's put on "long term plans schedule" for all that time
I know that I will make a "sacrilege question" on machinist chanel 😄, but...
Did you tried to sharpen some drill with that 3D printed mockup?
Forces involved when grinding drill bits are minute, so plastic will do just fine.
Almost all critical dimensions and tolerances are covered with metal parts in that mockup (ER collet, rail...).
If angle of the drill tip is not exactly 118 but 117 or 119 degrees... not a difference that anybodu will notice
If clerance angle is not 5 but 5.5 or 6 degrees... also...
It is more impoertant that angles are the same on both edges, then that they are exact.
Most critical part is that 180 degrees rotation.
Funny you should mention that.... I was contacted by one of my viewers this morning who has made a 3D printed version of this tool. I will be providing a link to his download in the next episode. After making my 3D printed mockup I started to wonder if it were strong enough to use as is. My viewer, Alan Pezula has beefed up the collet block by adding an aluminium sleeve but all the rest of the parts are pretty much straight off the printer. Check out the next episode for the details.
Regards,
Mark
Ahh, Hairy Forbes. They're so weird. You can buy that slotting head attached to its' own milling machine with a table and stand for $40 more than the adaptor by itself - in other words a complete slotting machine costs $40 more than the adaptor. Sigh.
I wonder what the markup is on those slotting heads. I guess they are pretty much the only game in town and they can charge what they think the market will stand.
Regards,
Mark
To be fair they are different specifications
I did look at them a while ago but didn’t need it as much as I thought I did
Autodesk Inventor? Oh, that's expensive! US$290/month! US$2,300/year!
I know, but I get an Educator's free licence. Autodesk began handing out their entire inventory of software including Maya and Fusion360 to students completely free of charge back in the late 2000's. I was very fortunate to go to their headquarters in San Francisco and also their maker space. They realised that if they could get students to use their software it would influence the market when those kids entered the workforce.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 then they realized that if they gave Fusion 360 away they'd take the wind out of the open source software sails. And it worked. Open source modeling software is bad. But I haven't tried any out in a while now to see what the progress has been.
Why not just grind a drill bit using muscle memory? I've never had difficulties freehand drill bit grinding. I guess it's all about personal skill and confidence, instead of relying on a machine to do your work for you.
Cash badly wasted, in my opinion!
Two things, no, three things really. I like the challenge of making a tool. I learn such a lot by forcing myself to stick to a plan and resolve all the issues. Next, a four facet grind on a drill bit, in my view, is far superior to a factory grind. It starts more accurately, it creates less heat and requires less cutting force and it is less likely to wander off line. Finally, not all of us are blessed with perfect eyesight and steady hands. If you can grind a drill bit offhand and get a good result, go for it.
Regards,
Mark