What an excellent insight into the workings of a plasma. Miine works fine but watching you working, imparts so much knowledge to know nothings like me. Thank you.
You never cease to amaze me with your ability and skill to look at something from a different angle. Plus knowing that something doesn't always leave the factory correctly built in the first place. I also really like it when you use items that you have previously fixed in your vids. Hats off to you once again.
As always… Great video, showcasing expert diagnostic and repair skills and technique. If you’re looking to learn how to fix electronics, start here. Go to video #1, press play, and pay attention. Diagnosing faults and failures, especially in unfamiliar systems, is challenging. While there are curricula available, it ultimately comes down to consistently asking if/then statements and maintaining a methodical approach. Always ask yourself “Why/What/How?” when you identify an issue. For example, if a radio won’t turn on and you find a blown fuse, replacing it might fix the problem temporarily. But without asking why the fuse blew, you might miss a power wire shorting to the ground when in motion. The host of this channel does an excellent job explaining these concepts, making it easy to follow and learn. Thanks for sharing your experience and wisdom with us!
As a tip when dealing with Plasma cutters. The compressed air is not only for cutting the metal, but also for cooling the torch. During use, the arc gets up to 20000 to 30000 °C (36032 to 54032 °F). Using no air, or shutting down the cutter straight after use can cause the torch to melt.
I picked up a Lidl plasma, when they were in stock. So far, very impressed, but the supplied nozzles are too big. Dropping to a 0.3mm nozzle makes it work so much better. Always wondered what was inside of these little machines. Many thanks for this excellent repair. 👍
Yeah one things forsure, plasma cutters are notorious for failing not long after purchase. I had one a while back, used it for like an hour, and then it stopped working, was told, too much moisture in the air compressor, even though it had dryer on the line.
Thanks 👍I'm not sure if there is such a "correct sensor" or if there is another design fault with these, as most NTCs seem to follow a very similar temperature curve path. I did a follow up video since making this (with thermal camera and heat gun / freezer spray) to show that it all worked, apart from if the sensor failed or became disconnected. After making that video I then pinned a comment under the new video as I added another 2K of resistance to my original mod and now everything works perfect including if the sensor fails or becomes disconnected 🙂
I bought the most expensive 3 function 180A welder/cutter I could find in China, hoping for reliability, they even showed me the factory. It gave an overheat warning after several days and less than 1kg of rods. As I despise anything electrical I immediately ripped the cover off to find 2 fried caps, on the top board, which is installed first. Electrical market lady identified them as cheap 230V items, and supplied 400V ones for 30P each. I soldered them to the original wires protruding from the board, supported them with aluminum as a heatsink, fastened by cable tie. That was 2015. 😊
Sorry to hear Terry, I hope everything went well and wish you a speedy recovery! I've just finished recording a follow up video as people were saying it won't work and you just bypassed the protection etc... stay tuned!
32:06 - 37:11 - After installing the 10kR _on the sensor side_ of that connector , the unit will still throw the E04 error if it is actually unplugged. You’re on the right track!
See follow up video, and pinned comment under it (as I made a slight modification again since recording the follow up video). Unit now works perfectly and will show E04 if it's unplugged (resistors are still on the PCB side) 😉👍
Good detective work . My Buddy that's retired from electronics repair ( he still dabbles) often says, a lot of times faults are obvious, a lot of times they're not. you zeroed in very quickly to some of the faults for sure
Nice repairs, Mick! I'm really getting hooked to this channel. Some of these chinese welders really are rubbish. I have worked at an importer and we were looking for a new manufacturer. The sample unit they sent us was fine, but the production units had serious QC problems. A few units even had rectified mains wires pinched under a screw. I'm sure you can imagine the sparks, sudden darkness and the slight discoloration of the underpants.
Well done getting those going. As for pretty much anything you pay for what you get. I run a Hypertherm, which is expensive but worth it if your a business. Duty cycle is the big restrictor on the cheap machines.
I'm a little surprised that you soldered the resisters to the circuit board and not the sensor itself. That way the unplugged error would still work and have one less modification to the board. First of your videos ive watched. I did enjoy it. You have a new subscriber. 😀
Thanks 👍That issue has now been fixed too, and the resistors are still on the circuit board side. I did a follow up video to this one (on the channel), and then pinned a comment under it as I made a slight alteration, so now everything works perfectly including if the sensor goes open circuit or becomes unplugged.
Not so great quality control, but you made is all good again. God job Mick. I just can't wait to get your bill for the intercom. It should be a "Doozy" lol
Same codes as an Everlast 82i plasma cutter. This must be a clone of one. Edit I forgot to say excellent work !! I learn something new from every video of yours.
Hi buy it fix it. Nothing like a cct diagram with values fault finding. Maybe the Disributor in your country might have a techy you could talk too as well. Not that you need one!!!! Well done mate..
Thanks 👍I did a follow up video on this (with thermal camera) and then I made a very slight adjustment in the pinned comment below the other video. The unit now works perfectly including if the sensor is unplugged or fails 🙂
You are the GOAT LEGEND I HAVE 4 FAULTY PLASMA CUTTERS that have the same fault and I thought it was humidity on the board as sometimes they worked ok . I spent a fortune on air line water traps and air dryers😢
Thanks 👍I now have ironed out the potential problem of the sensor being unplugged or failing. I have done a follow up video with a pinned comment (Make sure you read it after watching the video as it has new resistor values)
@@BuyitFixit thanks again. By any chance did you figure out what the other modification was about with the scratches and soldering? 3 of my machines have the same high quality 😉modification. I'm just curious 👍
Always impressed by your knowledge and deductive skills. It would be interesting to know how long you work on these puzzles. I know it would be a hassle to track, but a work clock on screen would either cement you as a genius or give hope to the rest of us that hard work pays off. Even a rough estimate of time spent would be great. A fan from Florida
Cheers 👍I'd have to keep starting and stopping the clock 😂😂I started these in the afternoon, then had other things I needed to do for a couple of hours, then came back did a bit more, then had food, came back again. I've seen me start a video and then do the rest over 2 or 3 different days as I don't do this full time.
You, Sir, are quite amazing! I would have totally missed the temp sensor being the wrong one.. I did assume, being the wrong connector, the factory just found something else to stick in there, and didn't know the difference :) You have a new subscriber!! :)
Thank you, and welcome aboard 👍 Check out the FLIR camera I repaired or the solar inverter video (which I then needed a password from the manufacturer which they wouldn't give me!) or the AverMedia Live Gamer capture card I looked at.
Great fix /rework! unfortunately Quality Control seem a thing of the past😞, in this case the wrong plug on the thermistor gave the clue to the design fault🙂. Well done!
Well done! I'm jealous of your ability to obtain freeze spray. The greenies here have ruined it for us.... Best I can find is a can for about $100 from CRC. Used to be 1/4 that and everywhere.
Its a shame,they invest all that technology and effort and then fail on little details...ive had a cheap cut 40 for 15yrs and its still going,but initially it blew the main voltage reg to control boards, spark gap was incorrect, and blew the fets up,after replacing with more robust parts its been a great plasma cutter...the cost t to do it right first time would not have been much....shame they cheap out sometimes.
I use Loctite 55 Thread Sealing Cord. It's a sort of PTFE string that is really easy to dispense and apply. Since starting to use it, I haven't had any leaking fittings that I know of in the last 15 odd years.
I have one of these cutters, it was so cheap I expected little of it and it hasn't failed yet. But now I have to look inside to see how bad it migjt be, and if it would benefit from modification.
Hi Mick, again an amazing repair, wauw man I like you way of diagnostics and your films are so nice to look at. Also nice to see that you fix from small to big devices ,you’re a real hero and not scared of anything, I like it so much !
Great Fixes Mon Ami .... I do remember Julian saying something about some solder work in the first unit he bought .... That was mentioned in the note he wrote you .... That might be those other parts you noted toward the end of the video... They might be cheaply built , but they do cut thin metal....
I've got some bamboo kebab skewers from the local supermarket that would be far less hair-raising to point things out on a potentially live circuit board than a metal screwdriver (or pencil). They could also be used for applying hot-melt to inaccessible areas without cooling it down so much.. just a thought :) I guess gardening canes would do almost as well, albeit with ~3x the diameter Well done on the fix!
I did a follow up video on this one where I explain how the modification works, and test it all out with a heat gun and freezer spray. I also made a slight modification after that by adding anther 2.2K resistor so now it also detects if the sensor fails or becomes unplugged.
Thanks, I did a follow up video on this and did another slight adjustment too(pinned comment on other video) so now it all works perfectly including if the sensor fails or becomes unplugged.
A similar channel has a variable voltage power supply, injects 1.2.5v, and with a temperature viewer he normally replaces what emits the higher temperature. Not that simple, but a good start.
Found your interesting channel. Just some poor work with pc components and you got them fixed. Could not even match the air line connector! Good work 👍 @@BuyitFixit
Good troubleshooting Mick. I do have a problem with our solution. Looks like to me that you made a parallel connection of the resisters which means that the resistance of the circuit cannot exceed the 45k ohms of your soldered resisters so the machine can now overheat and not be shut down by the heat sensor. At least, according to my high school electronics course from 50 years ago.
I have the same Brand Plasma Cutter but mine is a PLC 65 Pro. It arrived not working, as well. One of the wires going to the power switch wasn't connected. Beyond that... once I got it working I found that it will only cut about 1/8 inch steel and it's supposed to cut up to 3/4 inch steel. That's why I bought the supposed more powerful unit. I have tried many things and I just can't get it to perform as advertised. Also... my units flame arc starts to misfire/sputter if I turn it up beyond 45 psi or so. Amp adjustment doesn't solve the problem either. I'm not at all happy with the unit other than the seller finally refunded my money in full and allowed me to keep the unit, as well. That's the only saving grace regarding the whole experience. I have replaced/upgraded the torch and the ground clamp and adjusted the arc setting gap inside the unit and I can't run above 45 psi as previously stated. Even cuts of 1/8 inch steel have slag and don't cut clean. I have good water filtration and plenty of pressure on my air compressor but still... no dice. My input voltage is 230 volts, so that's good too. Any ideas Anyone? I'd like to get this unit up to speed. That said... Thanks Mick for the video... I watched it all and enjoyed same. Subscribed...
Thanks mate. I'm no expert when it comes to using and operating plasma cutters. I've got an Eastwood but only used it a few times here and there and only on around 3mm steel sheet.
I had the exact same unit. Mine would not adjust the current, it would only flash the display at 20. All cables were connected. I also had that internal leak at the gauge. My board was tight, though.
Really good fix well double fix, Mick they were poorly put together to be fair. My first rework station didn’t work when I received it, I got a refund as no more were in stock and didn’t have to return it. There were 2 fuse holders and only 1 was used and guess where the fuse was….. that’s right in the wrong holder lol, then after a few months when using the hot air it didn’t shut off and the whole thing just melted and nearly caught fire lol. Thanks Mick really enjoyed it 😊
Cheers Gary 👍I recently bought a 4000W speed controller/Dimmer to control the power of a 3KW heating element. The plug was non fuses and had a thin cable and the switch was only rated at 6A! So would have melted! The heatsink was far too small too so I gutted it, mounted the big triac on a computer CPU heatsink with fan, put it in a bigger case with fuses etc and now it's fine. Some sketchy dangerous stuff out there...
@@BuyitFixit oh wow Mick yes there definitely is, sounds like a great mod maybe you should let them know about it lol, the first thing I do is change the cable and plug I hate the non fused and un-sleeved plugs and copper coated aluminium cable, they’re a fire hazard
Another well reasoned fix. I'm considering getting a plasma cutter, but it won't be one of that make 😁 I bet it's got an appallingly short duty cycle, when and if it decides to work at all. Always looking forward to your repair videos, all the best!
Cheers Chris, yes I'd avoid these, get a half decent one. I think the one I have is an Eastwood Versacut, although hypertherm are supposed to be the best.
First, I'm extremely impressed by what he did in this video and I've learned a bit from it. Please forgive me if my question seems inane. Was his graph (@26:26) of PTC vs NTC a bit odd to anyone? There may be no substantive basis for this, but would it be more intuitive to lay out ∆T on the x-axis instead? To me it felt like trying to read something in the reflection of a mirror, as it required an abnormal moment to interpret. Am I just weird? 🤔
I might be wrong but the hole in the regulator you were trying to connect to, is for a pressure gauge. It’s always smaller than the in and out ports. If you do not have a gauge, just plug it since there is a gauge is on the front.
I'm an amature at electornics, but by adding the 14k resistors on the board didn't you just disable the overheat protection? If the thermistor fails it will not show the error code. Love your videos, keep up the good work.
Thanks 👍When the temperature rises the resistance of the NTC lowers. So it would be a lot lower than the 14.7K I fitted. For example think of putting a 10 ohm resistor across those 14.7K and then measuring it with a meter.
Silly, favorite quote, (describes me): *'If it's not broke, work on it until it is'.^* But, what you did here gives it another meaning, or could be what meant all along. ^ ['Celica Tech'] Where you using empty socket, seen corner of board, to plug in potentiometer? Not sure if Plasma cutter used, but Cut Away they did on *Francis Scott Key Bridge* over Patapsco River, just off Chesapeake Bay. Was quite a task, and busy area of Steel Dinosaurs moving the pieces. *Thanks!* Hadn't known Plasma Cutters required that many connections.
That so funny. You really do get some amazing extras with these cheap Chinese pieces of equipment. If I'd been hunting that fault down, it would have driven me mad, as I'd never have guessed that being a problem.
There's a socket on the top left that's unpopulated on both machines and looks like the correct type for the temp plug, I'm probably wrong but I couldn't stop thinking about it all the way through the video. 😀
PTC = Positive Temperature Coefficient NTC = Negative Temperature Coefficient After fitting the fixed resistors I think I would of heated the sensor to check over heating still is reported. Other than that a great video.
Thanks, I did a follow up video with thermal camera doing exactly that showing the temperatures it operates at and cuts off with different errors. After making the follow video I added a pinned comment under it as I made a very slight adjustment with the values of the resistors so it now also detects when the NTC is unplugged or failed.
Those sensors come in different resistance values. We know the connector is incorrect. I think they ran out of the proper value sensor and, during the parts shortage, they sourced a wrong value, but continued production, anyway.
Okay so this stops the error in a cold environment, but it still won't work as an over temperature alarm as designed as it's still an NTC. Great troubleshooting though! The poke around and look, magnifier sometimes required, method sure does seem to find so many problems.
I had a few people say things like that. Check out the follow up video I did with thermal camera, freezer spray, and heat gun, and show it all working.Then the pinned comment underneath as I did make a very slight adjustment after that by adding an extra 2K ohms so now it also detects if the sensor fails or is disconnected 🙂👍
i learnt that cheap chinese is not always good! be it tools or food , even though i did not really understand how the fix worked , i did enjoy it all the same , thanks for another fix
Excellent work, as always. Question re the resistors, why not just cut a section out of one the wires going to the thermistor and solder in the resistors. That way if the thermistor became unplugged it would still throw an error.
Thanks 👍Cutting one wire would make them in series with the thermistor, and we want parallel as we want the resistance not to go lower than 15K. If we put them in series we would have 14.7K + the value of the thermistor so 25.7K or so (it was around 11K when I first measured it). It shouldn't become unplugged because I added glue 🙂
@@BuyitFixit Of course, I wasn't thinking, d'uh. True about the glue. I'm a fan of blobbing some hot snot onto connectors and through hole components, it just avoids any jiggling loose or broken component leads. You could always put them in parallel by going across both wires of the thermistor. I've had to do that several times to stop 12 volt LEDs I've retrofitted into cabin lights in various vehicles from continuing to glow when they're powered off.
Great that you got it working. Does it still recognise if the sensor is unplugged or keep going until it fails catastrophically? Also, how have the resistors shifted the working temperature band? Will it work to a higher temperature now or cut out at a lower one?
If the resistors were fitted in series then the band would be shifted, but because the resistors are connected in parallel, as the temperature rises the resistance of the NTC will decrease and be lower than the resistors I fitted, so once it gets to a low enough level it will trigger the protection at normal. If the sensor somehow got unplugged (which it's now glued in) or failed open circuit then there is a possibility it could overheat.
Good Point, I should have perhaps done that. I'm sure it will work just fine (although I don't have the spec for what temperature it should cut off at).
I fitted a chinese diesel heater in my campervan conversion, it stops working when the temperature is approx minus 3 degC or lower. Gives an error code but nothing in the handbook to say what it is. They sent me a new sensor but still same. Luckily only had a few days below that temperature but very annoying it wont work when i need it most. Makes me think its the same issue and now is a good time to sort i. Thanks
@@Troutbum73 yes it kind of defeats the purpose of a heater... I wonder if it's a similar problem. Might be worth disconnecting the sensor and see if it's the same error that it shows when below -3c
Hi Mick, It's Fred Smith, general manager of Heysham 2 nuclear power station here. We have a problem with one of the reactor cores not behaving and we can't solve the issue. I wonder if you could pop down with your Fluke meter and take a look at it for me please?
That was brave (or something) of you to plug them in prior to internal inspection. I lost track, but could there be an issue if the sensor failed open? I bet they have UK CA and CE labels, ho, ho.
These things like welders usually have a very short duty cycle. Something like 30 seconds on and 60 seconds off for example. I wonder if that is part of the problem(s) Could you have soldered those two resistors onto the back of the plug that way if it’s disconnected it would still be registered as an error? A friend of mine added case fans trying to solve problems when I told him overheating is designed in 🤠
I did a short follow up video as a few people were saying that I'd just bypassed the protection so on the video I heat up the thing with a heat gun and cool it with freezer spray and use the thermal camera to show it all worked. I did make another slight adjustment by adding another 2.2k (pinned comment under the other video) it now also detects if the sensor fails or is unplugged too 🙂
@@DavoShed Nice one 👍Yes not much telly around here too. The local transmitter is only a 'Lite' one so there are only a few channels available so we didn't bother putting up an antenna. We can still get netflix, TH-cam etc via the internet but I tend to watch more TH-cam than anything else myself.
I need to figure out what's going on with my Miller plasma cutter. Worked when I last used it, went to use it last yr, nothing, lights up but that's it, just like this first one was doing when you first tried it, eventually, the airflow stopped going through the torch.
I have… well, had, a Milwaukee M12 soldering iron myself. It was one of the many M12 and M18 tools that recently got stolen out of my work van parked in front of my house. ☹️ I only used it once or twice; I try my best to use a more traditional style iron/station (Aixun T3A at the moment) since I’m so used to using that style for all of my soldering at home. The Milwaukee was hard for me to use since I’m used to bringing iron to component or wire rather than the other way around. It is really too bulky to use like a normal iron in the situations I find myself in at work, but with an XC battery pack, it makes a decent stationary iron. I’m just so unfamiliar with using that method that I never really do it. Vicious cycle lol. I’m hoping to get some reimbursement from my employer for the tools, but I don’t think I’ll purchase the soldering iron again. They offer so many cool little M12 tools, I’m sure I’ll find a more useful one for myself. PS: that final test cut on the first unit looked a bit like the silhouette of a lamb’s head to me! lol 🐑
Sorry to hear about your tools. I bet that sucks 🙁 Yes the soldering iron is bulky, it is useful for things like soldering wires in a car for instance or tractor 😂😂
@@BuyitFixit for sure! It has a good ceramic heater element so it maintains temp pretty well. The one time I remember using it for sure was at the top of a 10 foot ladder, soldering a DB9 for serial control of a projector in a courtroom lol… but I really like using the T3A now because I got the newer version with the the cradle that attaches to the top of the main unit. Very compact, and more control with the T245 style handle and temp adjustment :)
Hello Mick, nicely done. Just a question, adding the resistors has given the logic the value it wants to see when its cold or there abouts but would i be correct in thinking it still will not turn off when it overheats ? As the thermistor is giving the reverse reading.
I've just finished recording a follow video for this very reason as I had a few comments saying things like "you're gonna burn the guys house down" or such. Stay tuned!
Your family is so lucy having you about. You can turn your hand to anything. Imagine if you teamed up with Colin Furze for a collaborations episode, WOW the subscribers you would get from that would be epic. That would be fixer verses creator. Thanks for sharing Mick.
your car can be fixed too. just need an oem service manual or cd for your year/model. (auto transmission is the most complex part). as long as rust hasnt progressed too far which sometimes happens with cars in the northern states. will cars become obsolete and replaced by flying cars?
Don't talk to me about bloody cars 😂😂I've had the LR discovery 4 in bits more times that I care to remember (body off at least 3 times). Had the gearbox out of the ML350 to do the CS oil seal but turned out to be the oil cooler seals right at the bottom of the V6. Got a friends renault on my ramp atm as it has a seized water pump and the timing belt tensioner had pretty much desintigrated not sure how it made it over here..
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What an excellent insight into the workings of a plasma. Miine works fine but watching you working, imparts so much knowledge to know nothings like me. Thank you.
Thanks 👍
Mick, amazing deduction about the temperature issue! I don't believe that would have occurred to me.
Thanks 👍
You never cease to amaze me with your ability and skill to look at something from a different angle. Plus knowing that something doesn't always leave the factory correctly built in the first place. I also really like it when you use items that you have previously fixed in your vids. Hats off to you once again.
Thanks Darren 👍
You've got a good brain Mick. Great to see the process on investigation and repair. Keep at it!
Cheers mate 👍
Amen!!! @@BuyitFixit
As always… Great video, showcasing expert diagnostic and repair skills and technique.
If you’re looking to learn how to fix electronics, start here. Go to video #1, press play, and pay attention. Diagnosing faults and failures, especially in unfamiliar systems, is challenging. While there are curricula available, it ultimately comes down to consistently asking if/then statements and maintaining a methodical approach. Always ask yourself “Why/What/How?” when you identify an issue.
For example, if a radio won’t turn on and you find a blown fuse, replacing it might fix the problem temporarily. But without asking why the fuse blew, you might miss a power wire shorting to the ground when in motion.
The host of this channel does an excellent job explaining these concepts, making it easy to follow and learn.
Thanks for sharing your experience and wisdom with us!
Cheers mate 👍
As a tip when dealing with Plasma cutters. The compressed air is not only for cutting the metal, but also for cooling the torch. During use, the arc gets up to 20000 to 30000 °C (36032 to 54032 °F). Using no air, or shutting down the cutter straight after use can cause the torch to melt.
Thanks for the tip 👍(not to have a melted one 😂😂)
@@BuyitFixit , i have seen it happen when i worked as a welder. That guy didn't make that mistake twice when the boss was furious 😂
Great video, almost felt like a plot twist when you discovered the problem 👍
Thanks 👍. Follow up video out soon!
I picked up a Lidl plasma, when they were in stock. So far, very impressed, but the supplied nozzles are too big. Dropping to a 0.3mm nozzle makes it work so much better. Always wondered what was inside of these little machines. Many thanks for this excellent repair. 👍
Cheers 👍
0:50 I like how the email says the fault code isn’t in the “destruction manual” and not the “instruction manual.” 😂
😂😂😂yes I've heard the saying before 👍
We have always called it that 🤡
Yeah one things forsure, plasma cutters are notorious for failing not long after purchase. I had one a while back, used it for like an hour, and then it stopped working, was told, too much moisture in the air compressor, even though it had dryer on the line.
Thinking outside the box to a genius level again. Great work Mick.
Cheers Paul 👍
What a fantastic diagnosis! Ideally I suppose a new correct sensor would be fitted, but very well spotted sir!
Thanks 👍I'm not sure if there is such a "correct sensor" or if there is another design fault with these, as most NTCs seem to follow a very similar temperature curve path. I did a follow up video since making this (with thermal camera and heat gun / freezer spray) to show that it all worked, apart from if the sensor failed or became disconnected. After making that video I then pinned a comment under the new video as I added another 2K of resistance to my original mod and now everything works perfect including if the sensor fails or becomes disconnected 🙂
I bought the most expensive 3 function 180A welder/cutter I could find in China, hoping for reliability, they even showed me the factory. It gave an overheat warning after several days and less than 1kg of rods. As I despise anything electrical I immediately ripped the cover off to find 2 fried caps, on the top board, which is installed first. Electrical market lady identified them as cheap 230V items, and supplied 400V ones for 30P each. I soldered them to the original wires protruding from the board, supported them with aluminum as a heatsink, fastened by cable tie. That was 2015. 😊
Nice 👍
Great job how you detected the problem, my respect, love your contents, great job ❤️
Cheers 👍
Recovering from Aortic Aneurysm surgery, very invasive. Saw video, well done.
Sorry to hear Terry, I hope everything went well and wish you a speedy recovery! I've just finished recording a follow up video as people were saying it won't work and you just bypassed the protection etc... stay tuned!
Sorry to hear. May Allah grant you speedy recovery
Welcome to Mick's troubleshooting master class.
😂😉😉👍
Exactly what I needed on a Saturday Afternoon. Well done .
Cheers 👍
32:06 - 37:11 - After installing the 10kR _on the sensor side_ of that connector , the unit will still throw the E04 error if it is actually unplugged. You’re on the right track!
See follow up video, and pinned comment under it (as I made a slight modification again since recording the follow up video). Unit now works perfectly and will show E04 if it's unplugged (resistors are still on the PCB side) 😉👍
Good detective work . My Buddy that's retired from electronics repair ( he still dabbles) often says, a lot of times faults are obvious, a lot of times they're not.
you zeroed in very quickly to some of the faults for sure
Thanks 👍Yes, sometimes no so quickly like on the Kenwood mixer recently and the coffee maker I looked at 🙂
Nice repairs, Mick! I'm really getting hooked to this channel.
Some of these chinese welders really are rubbish. I have worked at an importer and we were looking for a new manufacturer. The sample unit they sent us was fine, but the production units had serious QC problems. A few units even had rectified mains wires pinched under a screw. I'm sure you can imagine the sparks, sudden darkness and the slight discoloration of the underpants.
😂😂😂😂Thanks mate, yes I can imagine. I've just finished recording a follow up video to this because of some comments.. stay tuned!
impressive skills of deduction on display there 👍
Thanks 👍
Awesome diagnose and fix there! 10/10
Cheers mate 👍
@BuyitFixit Excellent response, Mick
Well done getting those going. As for pretty much anything you pay for what you get. I run a Hypertherm, which is expensive but worth it if your a business. Duty cycle is the big restrictor on the cheap machines.
Thanks 👍Yes, heard of Hypertherm they are supposed to be the best 👍
You sort the problems out pretty fast, nice.
Thanks 👍🙂
0:42 I hate it when the destruction manual is incomplete!
Yes total destruction 😂😂😂
I'm a little surprised that you soldered the resisters to the circuit board and not the sensor itself. That way the unplugged error would still work and have one less modification to the board. First of your videos ive watched. I did enjoy it. You have a new subscriber. 😀
Thanks 👍That issue has now been fixed too, and the resistors are still on the circuit board side. I did a follow up video to this one (on the channel), and then pinned a comment under it as I made a slight alteration, so now everything works perfectly including if the sensor goes open circuit or becomes unplugged.
Just love how you work these issues out then resolve them, complete with full explanation for us mere mortals 👍
Thanks 👍🙂
Nice troubleshooting.
Thank you 👍
Wow i would of never thought
🙂👍
Nothing like a Buy it Fix it video with your coffee on a Sunday morning. Excellent, as usual. Thank-you.
Cheers mate 👍
Not so great quality control, but you made is all good again. God job Mick.
I just can't wait to get your bill for the intercom. It should be a "Doozy" lol
I wasn't going to charge... but if you insist 😂😂😂😂
Mick, what an amazing fix.
You're so brilliant, kind and generous.
Cheers mate 👍
great fix ,yet again ,nothing seems to beat you in the end!! best wishes ,love your channel.
Cheers John 👍
Same codes as an Everlast 82i plasma cutter. This must be a clone of one.
Edit
I forgot to say excellent work !! I learn something new from every video of yours.
Thanks 👍Different codes on this machine, E01 is Under or Over Voltage, and E04 is Over Current on the Everlast.
Hi buy it fix it. Nothing like a cct diagram with values fault finding. Maybe the Disributor in your country might have a techy you could talk too as well. Not that you need one!!!!
Well done mate..
Thanks 👍I did a follow up video on this (with thermal camera) and then I made a very slight adjustment in the pinned comment below the other video. The unit now works perfectly including if the sensor is unplugged or fails 🙂
bella riparazione hai elaborauto un'ottima intuizione del problema grazie del video ciao
Grazie👍
Great job.
Thank you! Cheers!
Superb diagnosis, simply awesome.
Cheers Bob 👍
You are the GOAT LEGEND I HAVE 4 FAULTY PLASMA CUTTERS that have the same fault and I thought it was humidity on the board as sometimes they worked ok .
I spent a fortune on air line water traps and air dryers😢
Thanks 👍I now have ironed out the potential problem of the sensor being unplugged or failing. I have done a follow up video with a pinned comment (Make sure you read it after watching the video as it has new resistor values)
@@BuyitFixit thanks again.
By any chance did you figure out what the other modification was about with the scratches and soldering?
3 of my machines have the same high quality 😉modification.
I'm just curious 👍
No I didn't investigate that.
Always impressed by your knowledge and deductive skills. It would be interesting to know how long you work on these puzzles. I know it would be a hassle to track, but a work clock on screen would either cement you as a genius or give hope to the rest of us that hard work pays off. Even a rough estimate of time spent would be great.
A fan from Florida
Cheers 👍I'd have to keep starting and stopping the clock 😂😂I started these in the afternoon, then had other things I needed to do for a couple of hours, then came back did a bit more, then had food, came back again. I've seen me start a video and then do the rest over 2 or 3 different days as I don't do this full time.
You, Sir, are quite amazing! I would have totally missed the temp sensor being the wrong one.. I did assume, being the wrong connector, the factory just found something else to stick in there, and didn't know the difference :) You have a new subscriber!! :)
Thank you, and welcome aboard 👍 Check out the FLIR camera I repaired or the solar inverter video (which I then needed a password from the manufacturer which they wouldn't give me!) or the AverMedia Live Gamer capture card I looked at.
I think you will find that the flashing light is not OC but Deg C
Great fix
@@steventodd1902 Thanks 👍
Great video showing deduction and problem solving skills.👍👍👍
Thank you 👍
Great fault finding and even better a good work around
Thanks 👍
Great fix /rework! unfortunately Quality Control seem a thing of the past😞, in this case the wrong plug on the thermistor gave the clue to the design fault🙂. Well done!
Thanks 👍yes it was the wrong plug that got me thinking about that 🙂
Good work 👍
Thanks 👍
Excellent! well worked out. Yet another great video, thanks.
Cheers John 👍
Very clever fix with temp sensor
Cheers👍
Well done! I'm jealous of your ability to obtain freeze spray. The greenies here have ruined it for us.... Best I can find is a can for about $100 from CRC. Used to be 1/4 that and everywhere.
Thanks 👍I got it from someone at the repair cafe. You can also use one of those air duster cans if you use it upside down 😉
Its a shame,they invest all that technology and effort and then fail on little details...ive had a cheap cut 40 for 15yrs and its still going,but initially it blew the main voltage reg to control boards, spark gap was incorrect, and blew the fets up,after replacing with more robust parts its been a great plasma cutter...the cost t to do it right first time would not have been much....shame they cheap out sometimes.
Nice, Good job on fixing yours 👍
well done
Thanks 👍
Great fix, mate.
Cheers mate 👍
I like to use liquid PTFE instead of thread tape, works a treat.
Interesting. Thanks for the tip 👍
I use Loctite 55 Thread Sealing Cord. It's a sort of PTFE string that is really easy to dispense and apply. Since starting to use it, I haven't had any leaking fittings that I know of in the last 15 odd years.
I have one of these cutters, it was so cheap I expected little of it and it hasn't failed yet. But now I have to look inside to see how bad it migjt be, and if it would benefit from modification.
It shouldn't need any modification if it's working. These units were not working at just below room temperature.
Good repair!
Thanks!
Hi Mick, again an amazing repair, wauw man I like you way of diagnostics and your films are so nice to look at. Also nice to see that you fix from small to big devices ,you’re a real hero and not scared of anything, I like it so much !
Many thanks! 🙂👍
Great Fixes Mon Ami .... I do remember Julian saying something about some solder work in the first unit he bought .... That was mentioned in the note he wrote you .... That might be those other parts you noted toward the end of the video... They might be cheaply built , but they do cut thin metal....
Thanks Cajun, yes they work but not the best build quality. I've just finished recording a follow up video on these.
I've got some bamboo kebab skewers from the local supermarket that would be far less hair-raising to point things out on a potentially live circuit board than a metal screwdriver (or pencil). They could also be used for applying hot-melt to inaccessible areas without cooling it down so much.. just a thought :) I guess gardening canes would do almost as well, albeit with ~3x the diameter
Well done on the fix!
Cheers 👍I've got some skewers, never though of using them as "pointy sticks" which ironically is what they actually are 😂😂😂
Heya, ptc and ntc are oppisits, that's a nice sollusion like that.
I did a follow up video on this one where I explain how the modification works, and test it all out with a heat gun and freezer spray. I also made a slight modification after that by adding anther 2.2K resistor so now it also detects if the sensor fails or becomes unplugged.
Well done, my man!
Thanks, I did a follow up video on this and did another slight adjustment too(pinned comment on other video) so now it all works perfectly including if the sensor fails or becomes unplugged.
A similar channel has a variable voltage power supply, injects 1.2.5v, and with a temperature viewer he normally replaces what emits the higher temperature. Not that simple, but a good start.
I've got one of those too, they are handy for finding shorts (like on the SSD hard drive I repaired) but this device didn't have any short circuits.
Good work, as always. Thanks for sharing!
I've a follow up video out later today 👍
Found your interesting channel. Just some poor work with pc components and you got them fixed. Could not even match the air line connector! Good work 👍 @@BuyitFixit
Great investigative skills!
Thanks 👍🙂
Good troubleshooting Mick. I do have a problem with our solution. Looks like to me that you made a parallel connection of the resisters which means that the resistance of the circuit cannot exceed the 45k ohms of your soldered resisters so the machine can now overheat and not be shut down by the heat sensor. At least, according to my high school electronics course from 50 years ago.
Thanks 👍see follow up video and pinned comment under it 😉
I have the same Brand Plasma Cutter but mine is a PLC 65 Pro. It arrived not working, as well. One of the wires going to the power switch wasn't connected. Beyond that... once I got it working I found that it will only cut about 1/8 inch steel and it's supposed to cut up to 3/4 inch steel. That's why I bought the supposed more powerful unit. I have tried many things and I just can't get it to perform as advertised. Also... my units flame arc starts to misfire/sputter if I turn it up beyond 45 psi or so. Amp adjustment doesn't solve the problem either. I'm not at all happy with the unit other than the seller finally refunded my money in full and allowed me to keep the unit, as well. That's the only saving grace regarding the whole experience. I have replaced/upgraded the torch and the ground clamp and adjusted the arc setting gap inside the unit and I can't run above 45 psi as previously stated. Even cuts of 1/8 inch steel have slag and don't cut clean. I have good water filtration and plenty of pressure on my air compressor but still... no dice. My input voltage is 230 volts, so that's good too. Any ideas Anyone? I'd like to get this unit up to speed. That said... Thanks Mick for the video... I watched it all and enjoyed same. Subscribed...
Thanks mate. I'm no expert when it comes to using and operating plasma cutters. I've got an Eastwood but only used it a few times here and there and only on around 3mm steel sheet.
I had the exact same unit. Mine would not adjust the current, it would only flash the display at 20. All cables were connected. I also had that internal leak at the gauge. My board was tight, though.
Strange, wonder what the cause of that problem was. Faulty potentiometer?
This is something I'd like to have seen checked out by Big Clive. He's a genuine electronics expert.
I've done a follow up video on this, which should be out tomorrow.
BC ? Nah he's a hack Mr It is the real deal.
@@andymouse Big Clive is a hack, you sure? 🤔 ...nah, Big Clive is far from being a hack
@@BuyitFixit Looking forward tuit! 👍
Really good fix well double fix, Mick they were poorly put together to be fair. My first rework station didn’t work when I received it, I got a refund as no more were in stock and didn’t have to return it. There were 2 fuse holders and only 1 was used and guess where the fuse was….. that’s right in the wrong holder lol, then after a few months when using the hot air it didn’t shut off and the whole thing just melted and nearly caught fire lol. Thanks Mick really enjoyed it 😊
Cheers Gary 👍I recently bought a 4000W speed controller/Dimmer to control the power of a 3KW heating element. The plug was non fuses and had a thin cable and the switch was only rated at 6A! So would have melted! The heatsink was far too small too so I gutted it, mounted the big triac on a computer CPU heatsink with fan, put it in a bigger case with fuses etc and now it's fine. Some sketchy dangerous stuff out there...
@@BuyitFixit oh wow Mick yes there definitely is, sounds like a great mod maybe you should let them know about it lol, the first thing I do is change the cable and plug I hate the non fused and un-sleeved plugs and copper coated aluminium cable, they’re a fire hazard
Another well reasoned fix. I'm considering getting a plasma cutter, but it won't be one of that make 😁 I bet it's got an appallingly short duty cycle, when and if it decides to work at all.
Always looking forward to your repair videos, all the best!
Cheers Chris, yes I'd avoid these, get a half decent one. I think the one I have is an Eastwood Versacut, although hypertherm are supposed to be the best.
Hi nice fault findin and solution found. I really enjoy your trouble shooting.
Cheers Steve 👍
First, I'm extremely impressed by what he did in this video and I've learned a bit from it. Please forgive me if my question seems inane.
Was his graph (@26:26) of PTC vs NTC a bit odd to anyone?
There may be no substantive basis for this, but would it be more intuitive to lay out ∆T on the x-axis instead?
To me it felt like trying to read something in the reflection of a mirror, as it required an abnormal moment to interpret. Am I just weird? 🤔
There's nothing like a design review when there are component shortages; evidently at the manufacturer, there IS nothing like a design review.
I might be wrong but the hole in the regulator you were trying to connect to, is for a pressure gauge. It’s always smaller than the in and out ports. If you do not have a gauge, just plug it since there is a gauge is on the front.
Yes, it's for the pressure gauge on the front of the machine, but the supplied fitting that came with one of the machines is the wrong size 🤦♂️
I'm an amature at electornics, but by adding the 14k resistors on the board didn't you just disable the overheat protection? If the thermistor fails it will not show the error code. Love your videos, keep up the good work.
Thanks 👍When the temperature rises the resistance of the NTC lowers. So it would be a lot lower than the 14.7K I fitted. For example think of putting a 10 ohm resistor across those 14.7K and then measuring it with a meter.
I've just finished recording a follow up video because of a few comments such as yours, and I test it out by heating it up and cooling it 👍
Silly, favorite quote, (describes me): *'If it's not broke, work on it until it is'.^* But, what you did here gives it another meaning, or could be what meant all along. ^ ['Celica Tech']
Where you using empty socket, seen corner of board, to plug in potentiometer?
Not sure if Plasma cutter used, but Cut Away they did on *Francis Scott Key Bridge* over Patapsco River, just off Chesapeake Bay. Was quite a task, and busy area of Steel Dinosaurs moving the pieces.
*Thanks!* Hadn't known Plasma Cutters required that many connections.
😂😂😂
That so funny. You really do get some amazing extras with these cheap Chinese pieces of equipment. If I'd been hunting that fault down, it would have driven me mad, as I'd never have guessed that being a problem.
Thanks 👍I've since done a follow up video and pinned a comment underneath it with a further update.
There's a socket on the top left that's unpopulated on both machines and looks like the correct type for the temp plug, I'm probably wrong but I couldn't stop thinking about it all the way through the video. 😀
I've just finished recording an update to this because of some comments.. stay tuned!👍
Nice job
Thank you! Cheers!
Great video sir :)
Thanks 👍
PTC = Positive Temperature Coefficient NTC = Negative Temperature Coefficient After fitting the fixed resistors I think I would of heated the sensor to check over heating still is reported. Other than that a great video.
Thanks, I did a follow up video with thermal camera doing exactly that showing the temperatures it operates at and cuts off with different errors. After making the follow video I added a pinned comment under it as I made a very slight adjustment with the values of the resistors so it now also detects when the NTC is unplugged or failed.
Nice job. Well done.
Thank you! Cheers!
Those sensors come in different resistance values. We know the connector is incorrect. I think they ran out of the proper value sensor and, during the parts shortage, they sourced a wrong value, but continued production, anyway.
Yes, those were my exact thoughts too 🙂
Okay so this stops the error in a cold environment, but it still won't work as an over temperature alarm as designed as it's still an NTC. Great troubleshooting though! The poke around and look, magnifier sometimes required, method sure does seem to find so many problems.
I had a few people say things like that. Check out the follow up video I did with thermal camera, freezer spray, and heat gun, and show it all working.Then the pinned comment underneath as I did make a very slight adjustment after that by adding an extra 2K ohms so now it also detects if the sensor fails or is disconnected 🙂👍
i learnt that cheap chinese is not always good! be it tools or food , even though i did not really understand how the fix worked , i did enjoy it all the same , thanks for another fix
Thanks 👍
Excellent work, as always.
Question re the resistors, why not just cut a section out of one the wires going to the thermistor and solder in the resistors. That way if the thermistor became unplugged it would still throw an error.
Thanks 👍Cutting one wire would make them in series with the thermistor, and we want parallel as we want the resistance not to go lower than 15K. If we put them in series we would have 14.7K + the value of the thermistor so 25.7K or so (it was around 11K when I first measured it). It shouldn't become unplugged because I added glue 🙂
@@BuyitFixit Of course, I wasn't thinking, d'uh. True about the glue. I'm a fan of blobbing some hot snot onto connectors and through hole components, it just avoids any jiggling loose or broken component leads.
You could always put them in parallel by going across both wires of the thermistor. I've had to do that several times to stop 12 volt LEDs I've retrofitted into cabin lights in various vehicles from continuing to glow when they're powered off.
Yes, I did think of that but thought it would be neater soldering on the back of the PCB 👍
Great that you got it working. Does it still recognise if the sensor is unplugged or keep going until it fails catastrophically? Also, how have the resistors shifted the working temperature band? Will it work to a higher temperature now or cut out at a lower one?
If the resistors were fitted in series then the band would be shifted, but because the resistors are connected in parallel, as the temperature rises the resistance of the NTC will decrease and be lower than the resistors I fitted, so once it gets to a low enough level it will trigger the protection at normal. If the sensor somehow got unplugged (which it's now glued in) or failed open circuit then there is a possibility it could overheat.
I've just finished recording a follow up video... where I heat and freeze the sensor so we'll see if it works like I thought it would 🙂👍
Hello, very interesting, but i was waiting for the cold - warm test to see this temp sensor after resistor mod finaly make his job...
Good Point, I should have perhaps done that. I'm sure it will work just fine (although I don't have the spec for what temperature it should cut off at).
Follow up video out soon 👍
I fitted a chinese diesel heater in my campervan conversion, it stops working when the temperature is approx minus 3 degC or lower. Gives an error code but nothing in the handbook to say what it is. They sent me a new sensor but still same. Luckily only had a few days below that temperature but very annoying it wont work when i need it most. Makes me think its the same issue and now is a good time to sort i. Thanks
@@Troutbum73 yes it kind of defeats the purpose of a heater... I wonder if it's a similar problem. Might be worth disconnecting the sensor and see if it's the same error that it shows when below -3c
You are a great MAN.🎉
Thanks 👍🙂
Hi Mick, It's Fred Smith, general manager of Heysham 2 nuclear power station here. We have a problem with one of the reactor cores not behaving and we can't solve the issue. I wonder if you could pop down with your Fluke meter and take a look at it for me please?
Sure, I'll bring the radiation meter that I looked at in a previous video! 😂😂😂😂
Excellent!
Cheers 👍
That was brave (or something) of you to plug them in prior to internal inspection. I lost track, but could there be an issue if the sensor failed open? I bet they have UK CA and CE labels, ho, ho.
'Or Something'😂😂😂I didn't check for labels...Damn 'Always read the label' 🤣🤣🤣
These things like welders usually have a very short duty cycle. Something like 30 seconds on and 60 seconds off for example.
I wonder if that is part of the problem(s)
Could you have soldered those two resistors onto the back of the plug that way if it’s disconnected it would still be registered as an error?
A friend of mine added case fans trying to solve problems when I told him overheating is designed in 🤠
I did a short follow up video as a few people were saying that I'd just bypassed the protection so on the video I heat up the thing with a heat gun and cool it with freezer spray and use the thermal camera to show it all worked. I did make another slight adjustment by adding another 2.2k (pinned comment under the other video) it now also detects if the sensor fails or is unplugged too 🙂
@@BuyitFixit I did see that video as it was linked in the end screen.
I’m already into your arcade game upgrade. (Not much on the tellie round here) 🤠
@@DavoShed Nice one 👍Yes not much telly around here too. The local transmitter is only a 'Lite' one so there are only a few channels available so we didn't bother putting up an antenna. We can still get netflix, TH-cam etc via the internet but I tend to watch more TH-cam than anything else myself.
Bring it back. Bring it back where you got it, get it outta here!
I need to figure out what's going on with my Miller plasma cutter. Worked when I last used it, went to use it last yr, nothing, lights up but that's it, just like this first one was doing when you first tried it, eventually, the airflow stopped going through the torch.
I have… well, had, a Milwaukee M12 soldering iron myself. It was one of the many M12 and M18 tools that recently got stolen out of my work van parked in front of my house. ☹️ I only used it once or twice; I try my best to use a more traditional style iron/station (Aixun T3A at the moment) since I’m so used to using that style for all of my soldering at home.
The Milwaukee was hard for me to use since I’m used to bringing iron to component or wire rather than the other way around. It is really too bulky to use like a normal iron in the situations I find myself in at work, but with an XC battery pack, it makes a decent stationary iron. I’m just so unfamiliar with using that method that I never really do it. Vicious cycle lol.
I’m hoping to get some reimbursement from my employer for the tools, but I don’t think I’ll purchase the soldering iron again. They offer so many cool little M12 tools, I’m sure I’ll find a more useful one for myself.
PS: that final test cut on the first unit looked a bit like the silhouette of a lamb’s head to me! lol 🐑
Sorry to hear about your tools. I bet that sucks 🙁 Yes the soldering iron is bulky, it is useful for things like soldering wires in a car for instance or tractor 😂😂
@@BuyitFixit for sure! It has a good ceramic heater element so it maintains temp pretty well. The one time I remember using it for sure was at the top of a 10 foot ladder, soldering a DB9 for serial control of a projector in a courtroom lol… but I really like using the T3A now because I got the newer version with the the cradle that attaches to the top of the main unit. Very compact, and more control with the T245 style handle and temp adjustment :)
Hello Mick, nicely done. Just a question, adding the resistors has given the logic the value it wants to see when its cold or there abouts but would i be correct in thinking it still will not turn off when it overheats ? As the thermistor is giving the reverse reading.
I've just finished recording a follow video for this very reason as I had a few comments saying things like "you're gonna burn the guys house down" or such. Stay tuned!
Your family is so lucy having you about. You can turn your hand to anything. Imagine if you teamed up with Colin Furze for a collaborations episode, WOW the subscribers you would get from that would be epic. That would be fixer verses creator. Thanks for sharing Mick.
I've spoken to Colin a couple of times on email a few years back, when I was doing another project 😉
Must have Friday afternoon and Monday morning blues in china too.
Yes 😂😂😂
your car can be fixed too. just need an oem service manual or cd for your year/model. (auto transmission is the most complex part). as long as rust hasnt progressed too far which sometimes happens with cars in the northern states. will cars become obsolete and replaced by flying cars?
Don't talk to me about bloody cars 😂😂I've had the LR discovery 4 in bits more times that I care to remember (body off at least 3 times). Had the gearbox out of the ML350 to do the CS oil seal but turned out to be the oil cooler seals right at the bottom of the V6. Got a friends renault on my ramp atm as it has a seized water pump and the timing belt tensioner had pretty much desintigrated not sure how it made it over here..