Hobby Cheating 119 - Applying and Painting Decals
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ม.ค. 2018
- In this Hobby Cheating Tutorial, I take you through both applying decals and painting them as a stencil for freehand. Decals can be a great part of bringing vehicles to life and this tutorial is all about applying them and getting them to the next level. Hope you enjoy!
Twitter: @warhammerweekly
Vince's RPG Podcast: itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/u... - เกม
Discovered a few days ago, subscribed istantly. Thank you for sharin your knowledge Mastro Vincenzo!
Excellent, thank you and glad to help as always.
Military aircraft maintainer here. I agree with you on battle damage / scratches on minis. It adds lots of drama and story to a figure. However, I can absolutely say that, even during war, if a vehicle isn't fighting, its being maintained. I cant speak for anything other than the aircraft I know, but scrapes, scratches, and bare metal are all usually fixed pretty quickly. Corrosion control is very high priority.
True, my feeling is in the 41st millenium with this "all there is is war," they may be slacking a little. ;)
Love the fact you posted this after working for 40+ hours on a freehand on your knight :D
There is always time to share (also, it may be a good excuse to stop working on that for a few minutes to do something else. ;) )
Vince you're literally the only person I've ever heard pronounce it "deccle" but now I cant stop doing it too
It gets stuck in your head right. :)
@@VinceVenturella turns out the guys over at Humbrol also pronounce it "deccle" in their video about their decal fixing solution. Go figure
Thank you for a very useful little video.
Thank, much appreciated as always.
Dee-cal.
I think it's a Tomaato/Tomato situation. That being said, I think you are correct.
Vince Venturella Yeah agreed. These suckers have been my Nemesis for nearly 4 decades so I have to confess I call them something far less ladylike! Wish I’d had great TH-cam vids like yours when I started.
Yeah, I don't think I have ever heard someone say deh-cal before. There is definitely only one correct way.
6:15
Vince’s true ork nature comes through.
The only difference in product that I see is that the micro sol and micro set by Microscale softens the deeecal and does not seal it. The reason it softens the deeecal is so that it conforms to the surface and hides the carrier film and bubbles if there are any. Then seal it with what ever you like to use. Cool about painting them...I just like to do the weathering thing. Thanks for sharing...
That's exactly what the Vallejo medium does.
Yep just like the micro sol. varnish after to seal.
I have a vague feeling of deja vu, like I've commented this on one of your previous videos, but anyway....
You're using the fluids backwards, compared to the "official" technique. The Fix is a glue, not a sealant, and is supposed to go on first. Once that has dried, you use the Medium to soften the decal so it conforms to the surface. Sealing is done with ordinary varnish, same as always.
Interesting, I will be honest, this is the way it was taught to me and the way I have always done it. I do use varnish as well to seal everything down once I am all done.
Well, as long as it works it can't be entirely wrong!
You can almost hear Hugh's builders in the background lol crikey!!
I have a really hard time keeping brushes “sharp”, I normally use the GW and Army Painter brushes. You make it look so easy! Great vid
It's the brushes. W&N hold an amazing point. That and the flow-aid which keep the paint thin and flowing.
Man, I’m no Vince, but I can’t tell you how much upgrading my brushes has helped my painting, especially detail work. And if you take care of them, they last much, much longer.
I still use cheap brushes for metal detailing though. I don’t like metallics, and when I use them, they seem to destroy brushes much faster than any other good acrylic. But the last year Ive been working on creating a metal look with regular acrylics, blending and highlighting.
Good brushes and a reasonably priced air brush, man. It will bring your paint game to a new level. Perfect undercoats, zenethal, even speed/contrast paints. It’s extremely simple.
And washes, no expensive brushes for that. Just a cheap one in good shape.
Nice one, I' have been always a big fan of using the decals as a starting point and not as an end result, even in my military vehicle models I usually try to apply shadows and highlights to the decals of military symbols.
Totally agree.
I always cringe when it comes time to applying decals because I'm not terribly good at it and generally seem to mess it up more often than not so I'm envious whenever someone does it so easily. I've seen decals used as a base for "freehand" painting before; I thought it was a great idea then and I still do so now. Great video!
Yeah, the abundance of water or medium to slide it around is essential for me. Glad you enjoyed. :)
I always apply decals over a gloss varnish, I then hit them with another gloss varnish..do my oil washes and hit it with a matte. Do my Battle damage and any other washes and pigments and another matte hit. It takes awhile but the decals just blend right in.
Yep, the key is you just don't stop with the decal, you need to go beyond and make it a real part of the model's world.
Great video Vince. Are there any changes to the process if you want to stack decals? i.e. a White Gothic Numeral over Marine Shoulder Troops Black Arrow?
Just put the fix down and let it dry completely. Then more medium and apply, you should be able to stack without issue.
Vince Venturella Thanks Vince! 👍☺
Hey, why do you add flow aid to the opaque paint instead of water? Is there a reason? Thanks.
Helps with sharp thin lines, breaks up the surface tension.
Tips for applying decals to curved surfaces? I've always struggled applying them to Space Marine shoulder pads for example.
Before putting the decal in water, use a sharp knife to lightly cut slits in the decal. Preferably in places where it's just transparent or otherwise uninteresting.
Excellent tip, a very good tip I would also add to make sure the surface is wet enough you can slide and adjust it. This has helped me in the past so I can push it properly into position.
If its like a space marine shoulder pad, you can put the decal on. Then while its still wet, before it sets, take a very sharp (basically knew) Xacto blade and roll the blade down the curved part to cut a split as far as needed. Then apply your decal micro sol.
To anyone reading this: You don't have to cut the decal, just apply several coats of Micro Sol and it will conform to any surface. Then cover it with a matte varnish to seal it in and marvel at your decal that looks painted on.
Great video. Any tips for curved surfaces. It's amazing how the new primaris marines have knee decals which are meant to go around a sphere but are obviously flat.
Healthy amount of medium or similar so you can shape and slide easily. You will never get it right on the first try and need to adjust on the model.
Vince Venturella Cheers. I'll give it a try.
Vince, love your videos!! Thanks you so much! Do I need to gloss varnish a shoulder pad before I apply a decal then matte varnish over the decal to bring it back?
No, it's a good idea to have some varnish there as you're getting the area very wet when applying the decal, but you don't need to slather it in gloss or anything, just some varnish to protect.
@@VinceVenturellaany particular type of varnish you suggest?
You’re the best. Thanks for answering so quickly. I just signed up on your Patreon.
@@chrisrinderknecht3753 A little satin varnish from Vallejo is always easy
I use Tamiya's Mark Fit Strong, same process though, yeah? I done a unit of Hawk Lords and used Raven Guard decals and painted them gold
Yep, same process. Glad you were already on the page with the page with painting the decals, it's such a good way to start free hand for me and I like to build up stuff around it. You are correct, same process. Sounds like an awesome unit.
Im preparing to do a Knights Templar themed Bretonnia force, and the Black Templars transfers are what worries me more than anything. Im fine with an airbrush, but I sure as hell can’t freehand this stuff. I’m still excited for it though
You can do it!
@@VinceVenturella I absolutely can. I’m not a true artist, I had to learn very specific techniques through the years, but im ok.
But for these, I am using tape. I want perfect lines on the fabric, and nice, bright, sprayed coats. A new crusade marching out with brand new standards, Caparisons, medieval religious symbols, Grail Reliquary with a full guard, foot knights all resplendent, and then the dirty, grimy scarred peasant Bowmen, Men at arms, and the like.
Perhaps on a crusade into the desert to deal with some Skeletons, and find some holy relic.
Too much information, I know, but I’m excited. My original Bretonnia army is my competitive army. This is going to be for our bi-weekly narrative campaign, which we’re starting over for the launch of this game.
hi Vince , i'm having problem with decals, after I airbrush my base color and I waited for it to dry complete then when I try to moist the area for the decals , the base color kind of like dissolves and leave water marks and some worse areas I can see the black undercoat , any idea what could cause this ?
Give it a good solid coat of varnish before doing the decal, that should prevent that.
@@VinceVenturella thank you! I’ll give it a try
I seriously just want to know how you painted the bare metal on that arm. Its amazing.
Thank you, the key is Vallejo Metal Color, the best metal acrylic paint on the market - it's smooth like butter and has incredible blending. I have a video where I take it from there as I am using oil washes and painting to achieve the full effect - th-cam.com/video/oQmhcSRsiPo/w-d-xo.html
Thank you Vince!!!
Interesting that you're putting it down on a matte finish. I gloss the area, fix the transfer, do as many applications of Micro Sol necessary to get it flat, then seal it in and smooth it with another layer of gloss before doing anything else.
Yes, I know that is another method, and I don't think there is anything wrong with that at all. I actually like the surface being matte at first so I can see the exact edge before I seal and varnish everything to smooth it together. Given that I often paint them, pigment them, battle damage them and then seal everything with dull cote, it all tends to even out in the end. ;)
Great share
Thank you sir, much appreciated.
Wow... I actually never thought of using decals as a guide for freehand. Just bought some overpriced white decals too....
In the future I should make my own decals to act as guides instead :D
I love it, it's one of my favorite things and I like to build more complex freehand around it. It can act as your "anchor" for other complex designs around the solid center. Glad you found it helpful.
Nice job on the cock n' ball minigun! Lol
It was an ironic placement I didn't think about until after. :)
What does the medium do?
It softens the decal.
Doc Eon thanks man 😃
Hi vince. I don't remember what video you recommended it, but whatever, here we are.
At one point you recommended fallout hobbies as a source of decals. I ordered with them in October last year, after 6 months of silence I emailed them and was told "I am so sorry this order was errored. I have resolved it and here's the tracking number"
2 months later that tracking link still says USPS hasn't received a parcel.
Obviously I don't blame you or something weird and at this point I've just accepted that the money is gone, but might want to hold off on recommending them in the future? They mention "significant delays" but if their backlog is actually 8 months long and they're just handing out shipping links they don't intend to fulfil for >2 months... then I don't really know what to say.
Yeah, that’s not great at all.
It's ok, maybe the knights house is being slowly touched by Slaanesh
So it would seem... ;)
LOL. I assume the pronunciation is a nod to The Coneheads movie?
It's just the Canadian pronunciation, could be other places, but I know it's how they say it in Canada. When I learned the word, that is how the person pronounced it, so it always just stuck with me, though time has made it so occasionally I end up jumping between (it's like MarshmEllow vs MarshmAllow for the US vs. UK). The coneheads was Dan Akroyd, who is Canadian, so it wouldn't surprise me if they highlighted it, though i admit, it's been a LONG time since I saw that move. :)
"get into it" I refuse. But thanks for the cheats.
Fair enough! ;)
Hi Vince, I was hoping to speak with you directly. Do you have an email address we can communicate on? Thank you so much - Andy
Sure, send me a message through the channel and I will set you up.
Couldn't get past decles...
Sorry, nothing else to be said beyond I understand.