You better use a soft makeup brush (for eye shader, for instance), and use a stippling motion. The brush spreads when pushed onto the transfer, thus flattening the transfer nicely, and Q-tips tend to leave cotton fibre on the transfer in my experience. Also, good idea is to very softly cut the transfer layer *on* the paper, as you can better cut without applying the force needed to cut the paper itself. Then, when solving the decal in water, the cut-out detaches from the rest of the decal layer, making it the minimum size.
is it safe to paint over the micro sol once it's dry? I'm painting a lamenters army and my plan was to paint the shoulders white, put a waterslide of the heart symbol in the middle and then add black squares to the rest of it to make the checkerboard pattern, would that work?
I'm new to warhammer and loving it. I just painted my first squad of primaris intercesssors. I have a question about the shoulder decal selection. I put the ultramarines emblem on the left shoulder, but what is supposed to go on the right for regular primaris intercessors? I know different unit types get different shapes. Is there a comprehensive list or guide on the correct decal to use for each model type?
I'm following your suggestion from other videos to apply transfers to my war dollies. I had put the transfers on my Horus Heresy Space Wolves last night just using water, but wasn't happy with the curls. I got some Mircosol and Microset today (numbered both lids - good shout) and then applied the Microsol over the already applied transfers, giving it some time to work with the transfer, and followed your steps from there. I'm much happier with the results! I'll drop pictures in the discord.
"I remember being a kid and trying to apply decals with just a bit of water like it said on the back of the transfer sheet and getting super frustrated." - This is exactly what happened to me. Tried to put a few decals onto some Ultramarines as a 14 year old and swore to never do anything with decals ever again.
I was that kid who used water like they recommended. And I haven’t used a transfer since that day. I’m going to give it a go now with my IVth legion Heresy project!
You're freaking me out!! haha Thanks for sharing how you apply transfers. ;) A few tips on how i apply different transfers. Using a short haired brush instead of brushing over the decal use the tip to push from an edge much like you would when stippling. Tamiya makes a type of pointed q-tip that is EXCELLANT for moving decals into position. They are reusable and can last a very long time. A toothpick can also be used although I get much better results by using either Tamiya's pointed q-tip/cottonSwab or by pushing the decal along it's edges with the tip of a paint brush. The qtip also acts as a sponge and will soak up surface fluid which may require selective timing for it's usage. I have used Micro Set and Micro Sol with a LOT of different decals. I suggest NOT soaking the decal in SET to start with and only use luke warm water to soften then apply SET to the surface for the decal to float into position. After getting to know the decal's performance I'll use a much more extreme approach. With a thick and sturdy decal that does not break and does not fold easily I'll take two approachs with solvents. If it's a smooth surface I'll start with SOL (yes, SOL, not SET) position the decal, let it dry, then apply Walthers Solvaset. You CANNOT touch the decal after applying this or you will ruin it and may need to start over. Walthers Solvaset can be found in the realm of model train hobbiests. This stuff will melt the decal and make it look painted on. when you initially apply a decal over uneven surfaces using only SET or SOL, and once it's in position, don't forget to let it dry somewhat, otherwise you can smear or tear the decal, then apply SOLVASET. DO NOT TOUCH AFTER APPLYING!!! The decal will wrinkle up, it may even look ruined at first, do NOT touch it, it will lay down and confirm to the most obtuse surface and melt down into it appearing as if it were painted on. Walthers Solvaset has a learning curve and it is absolutely worth learning. Anyone who uses water slide decals should have all three of these products. I suggest practicing with Solvaset before dedicating it to a model. Also, a high gloss clear coat will improve your decal application process and also protect the paint making it easy to restore without having to repaint. After the decals are applied, I think a matt coating looks very nice while protecting everything very well.
The micro sol is to soften the transfer further, you paint it over the transfer and leave it to dry, don't touch it until it's dried, after a coat of varnish it should look as though the decal it was painted onto the model
just the video I needed! I never knew that stuff existed. I havent done many transfers but used water when I did. They went on ok but lost loads getting crumpled in the water or when I was taking them out. Now that I'm starting using my FW transfers I can't afford the waste 😂
I'm Flesh Tearers and have tried them all. Mighty Brush transfers are the best for FT Chapter logo, GW for the squad markings and Mighty Brush for the blood drop Company Markings. They are quite thick, so you'll need the Micro Sol and Set. There's a great FB group, and the Reddit group is good too for collecting ideas and tactics. Welcome to the Wrath.
Great video! Very informative and well delivered. Extending beyond the basic Micro-Set/Micro-Sol, do you know if the Micro-Coat products should be used instead of Micro-Sol or over the top of Micro-Sol? Thanks again
Actually I have seen people apply a gloss coat to where they will be applying the transfer beforehand. It provides a slightly smoother surface for the transfer to stick to and allows you a little more ease to slide the transfer into place. After you’ve applied your transfer and let it dry you then go back in with a bit of matte coat to get rid of any shine.
Can you paint over (white) decals using a contrast? I have the Raven Guard upgrade pauldrons and was planning to paint then anthracite grey, following the same approach over the (white) squad symbol transfers?
@Mediocre Hobbies basically I have the white decals that come with the Raven Guard upgrade kit. It comes with the Chapter pauldrons which can be painted, along with transfers for squad speciality. I'm aiming for a more covert look, so was wondering whether you can paint over decals to change their colour?
these products don't ruin the color that was applied underneath right? Can I apply the decal without having put any layer of protective varnish on the model?
Always a question because I cannot get Microsol or micro set in my country. What do I do for imperial fist circular ones without it. They just break apart trying to set them every time
@MediocreHobbies wish I could I've tried but in Australia it's not on Amazon, nothing in stores. I've tried Vallejo decal softener but yeah I've talked to so many hobby and players in my local store in it for years. They've all told me it's just not an option in Australia
To be honest you don’t really need the blue one. Water and a few coats of the micro sol (drying between applications) should be more than enough. The main thing for me is applying some watered down Matt medium to dull down the transfer, again that will take a few coats.
@@MediocreHobbies this is following a tutorial from an ex GW box art painter. He recommends daler-Rowney Matt glaze medium, a tub of it will last a lifetime.
Have they named them backwards? The microsol is to set the decal and the microset is a kind of solvent that softens the decal... Or have I misunderstood?
@MediocreHobbies so I applied the micro set and it's not coming off the transfer paper. I've absolutely coated the decal and it's still not getting to where I can move it with the brush. If anything all it's done has accidently crimped the edge of the decal and now it's pretty much ruined. Exactly how much Micro set do I need because I applied at least 8 brushes worth onto it
You can also use warm water for transfer removal. I always had difficulties with the second generation of Night Lords transfers as those were spreading their wings in a horizontal way thus covering too much space. So any transfer applied would never stay flat on a curved surface. The old NL transfers were superior. The wings were folded up and could be applied to shoulder pads in a flat way. Because of these issues I later on chose custom chapters/traitor warbands were I could paint the corresponding symbol with a free hand technique.
As far as I know, no! It’s like a sticker, the picture wouldn’t be on the other side! You might be able to get some custom ones printed somewhere though?
Tnx for this video, can from the brettonia vid, doing this om all those models going be be “fun” even got some old decals, with just water is a nightmare 🤣
@@MediocreHobbies hmmn, that might help in applying transfers to some of my custom Gunpla kits...its amazing how well 40k wet transfers work on those as well...
Does the micro sol and set go off? I have some that are a few years old and after shaking the bottles the liquid was fizzing and bubbling and Jesus it smelt real bad like was burning my nose.
@@MediocreHobbies well I had the bottles for like 5years before I opened them, and the smell burning my nose and the fizzing and bubbling of the stuff maybe me freak out so I threw them out and used Mr tamiya. So you don’t need to number the kids as the bottles literally have a 1 and a 2 on them telling you which one to use first and 2nd🙃
You will get a better result if you but gloss varnish below the transfers first, then add a bit of microsol on the mini, and move the transfer around in that, not in microset, after that use a bit of kitchen towel or similar soft paper wrapped around on the tweezers and suck of the excess, then apply the microset. also don't touch the microset, once that is dried use a bit of matt varnish to smooth it over. I personally sometimes also use the Vallejo products instead of micro sol and microset (Decal softener and decalfix). Also for moving the transfers a soft but stiff brush will avoid scratching up the transfers and the paintjob below.
I just spend hour to cut all the conected parts of transfer beetween ,,real" parts of decal, then spend another hour slowly puting it on shoulder pad, dry-wet, dry- wet, dry-w.... Really i must buy those things xd tnx
Transfer folder you big nerd….. and I hope you can see my jealousy in this post I have sheets everywhere and most damaged due to my bad storage methods 😃
Let me know if you have any questions about transfers, and if you have any other requests for videos like this!
You better use a soft makeup brush (for eye shader, for instance), and use a stippling motion. The brush spreads when pushed onto the transfer, thus flattening the transfer nicely, and Q-tips tend to leave cotton fibre on the transfer in my experience.
Also, good idea is to very softly cut the transfer layer *on* the paper, as you can better cut without applying the force needed to cut the paper itself. Then, when solving the decal in water, the cut-out detaches from the rest of the decal layer, making it the minimum size.
@@MrZauberelefant good tips. Thank you.
is it safe to paint over the micro sol once it's dry? I'm painting a lamenters army and my plan was to paint the shoulders white, put a waterslide of the heart symbol in the middle and then add black squares to the rest of it to make the checkerboard pattern, would that work?
@@mountaintimbs3158 short: yes
I'm new to warhammer and loving it. I just painted my first squad of primaris intercesssors. I have a question about the shoulder decal selection. I put the ultramarines emblem on the left shoulder, but what is supposed to go on the right for regular primaris intercessors? I know different unit types get different shapes. Is there a comprehensive list or guide on the correct decal to use for each model type?
I'm following your suggestion from other videos to apply transfers to my war dollies. I had put the transfers on my Horus Heresy Space Wolves last night just using water, but wasn't happy with the curls. I got some Mircosol and Microset today (numbered both lids - good shout) and then applied the Microsol over the already applied transfers, giving it some time to work with the transfer, and followed your steps from there. I'm much happier with the results! I'll drop pictures in the discord.
Super happy to hear that pal. The stuff is magic.
"I remember being a kid and trying to apply decals with just a bit of water like it said on the back of the transfer sheet and getting super frustrated." - This is exactly what happened to me. Tried to put a few decals onto some Ultramarines as a 14 year old and swore to never do anything with decals ever again.
Hahaha I know the feeling. But now transfers are my life. I use them constantly
Those two things are game changers. I'll never apply decals without them again. Great tip.
Cheers pal. Glad to hear.
I was that kid who used water like they recommended. And I haven’t used a transfer since that day. I’m going to give it a go now with my IVth legion Heresy project!
We were all that kid lol. Time to give them another try.
@@MediocreHobbies yip, just ordered some!
You're freaking me out!! haha Thanks for sharing how you apply transfers. ;)
A few tips on how i apply different transfers.
Using a short haired brush instead of brushing over the decal use the tip to push from an edge much like you would when stippling.
Tamiya makes a type of pointed q-tip that is EXCELLANT for moving decals into position. They are reusable and can last a very long time.
A toothpick can also be used although I get much better results by using either Tamiya's pointed q-tip/cottonSwab or by pushing the decal along it's edges with the tip of a paint brush. The qtip also acts as a sponge and will soak up surface fluid which may require selective timing for it's usage.
I have used Micro Set and Micro Sol with a LOT of different decals. I suggest NOT soaking the decal in SET to start with and only use luke warm water to soften then apply SET to the surface for the decal to float into position.
After getting to know the decal's performance I'll use a much more extreme approach. With a thick and sturdy decal that does not break and does not fold easily I'll take two approachs with solvents. If it's a smooth surface I'll start with SOL (yes, SOL, not SET) position the decal, let it dry, then apply Walthers Solvaset. You CANNOT touch the decal after applying this or you will ruin it and may need to start over.
Walthers Solvaset can be found in the realm of model train hobbiests. This stuff will melt the decal and make it look painted on. when you initially apply a decal over uneven surfaces using only SET or SOL, and once it's in position, don't forget to let it dry somewhat, otherwise you can smear or tear the decal, then apply SOLVASET. DO NOT TOUCH AFTER APPLYING!!! The decal will wrinkle up, it may even look ruined at first, do NOT touch it, it will lay down and confirm to the most obtuse surface and melt down into it appearing as if it were painted on.
Walthers Solvaset has a learning curve and it is absolutely worth learning. Anyone who uses water slide decals should have all three of these products. I suggest practicing with Solvaset before dedicating it to a model.
Also, a high gloss clear coat will improve your decal application process and also protect the paint making it easy to restore without having to repaint. After the decals are applied, I think a matt coating looks very nice while protecting everything very well.
Great! Thanks for sharing how you apply transfers too, some good tips in there!
The micro sol is to soften the transfer further, you paint it over the transfer and leave it to dry, don't touch it until it's dried, after a coat of varnish it should look as though the decal it was painted onto the model
Thanks for the tip. I shall try it next time.
Great tip on numbering the lids! Always forgetting.
Hahaha cheers. Yet I think it’s cos the first one you use is called set. You let brain thinks it should go on last.
Great tutorial, starting with kill team so this will definitely help with the veteran guardsmen! Thanks.
No worries pal. Yes those transfers are small but great. This should help.
Perfect tutorial on how best to use these products. Thank you!
Cheers dude. I appreciate that a lot.
just the video I needed! I never knew that stuff existed. I havent done many transfers but used water when I did. They went on ok but lost loads getting crumpled in the water or when I was taking them out. Now that I'm starting using my FW transfers I can't afford the waste 😂
You for sure don’t want to be wasting the forgeworld once. There so beautiful but also very expensive.
@@MediocreHobbies Yup, and I've a lot of models needing transfers!
Just ordered that stuff 👍🏻
I have some Raven Guard transfers looming so this is mighty handy. Great stuff as always
Cheers pal. I have those transfers also and look forward to using the on the legion paint series.
I’m starting a flesh tearers army and a was really considering doing transfers for them. Thanks for the advice!
No worries pal. A flesh terrors army is for sure in my future.
I'm Flesh Tearers and have tried them all. Mighty Brush transfers are the best for FT Chapter logo, GW for the squad markings and Mighty Brush for the blood drop Company Markings. They are quite thick, so you'll need the Micro Sol and Set. There's a great FB group, and the Reddit group is good too for collecting ideas and tactics. Welcome to the Wrath.
One of th best and useful video on transfert ! thanks a lot :-)
aw thanks man, glad it was helpful!
awesome tutorial! love to see things like that, hard to find good guides
Cheers pal. Glad you liked the video.
You can also paint a couple of thin layers of your chosen medium over the decal to help take away the sheen.
Great tip thank you.
not sure if anyone already commented this but the micro set and sol are already numbered 1-2 on the front of the labels, great video all the same
I realised that a while after I made the video 😂 I’m an idiot haha
Good stuff man 😊!!!
Thank you so much pal. That means a lot coming from you.
Again this is something that terrified me and yeah my old days using transfers where a disaster. Great video dude
Cheers pal. Ye it’s not as scary as it used to be and really adds something.
Coincidentally enough, my bf bought that very same product. Now I might have to try some transfers.
Hahaha you should. They really do add a lot to a model.
@@MediocreHobbies Hopefully it won't matter that I already varnished the minis I wanna put transfers on
@@GamingGuardians no that won’t matter at all.
Great video! Very informative and well delivered. Extending beyond the basic Micro-Set/Micro-Sol, do you know if the Micro-Coat products should be used instead of Micro-Sol or over the top of Micro-Sol? Thanks again
Great video! Thanks, excited to try this on the new HH stuff.
Awesome dude. Glad it helped.
Magnet selection and fitting!😉
Hahaha ok ok
Great advice Andy
Cheers pal
i find three coats of the micro set instead of the one really blend in the transfers and take the shine away
I shall apply two more and see what happens. Cheers pal.
Saved!!!!!!!!! This is a great video to help. Will use this when I start my space marines. Cheers
Awesome, love to hear that! if you have any issues, let me know!
I've just found Decal Adhesive/softener by Tamiya which works well for me, now I have other options to use if I can't find it when I need it, Thanks!
Your the second person to mention it. I must give it a try. Thanks.
nice how to; cant wait to see how to paint up the ash waste terrain.
Should be starting that tomorrow.
Hot tip, put your micro set/sol in 17 ml dropper bottles. I have tipped them over a few times in my time modeling.
Hahhahaha now that is a great tip. I need to do this. If you notice in the video one of my bottles is half empty. That’s because I spilled it.
@@MediocreHobbies they are very top heavy
@@lanesteele240 hahaha yep
An excellent vid that I wish I’d seen years ago. I use Mark Fit strong by Tamiya which does a similar job
I’ve never heard of that I shall have to investigate. Glad you liked it.
Great video! This is just what I needed.
Glad to hear.
Are the shoulderpads varnished before you applied the transfers? Should we varnish the area of the transfers after they are applied?
I haven’t using this technique. Feel free to use a mat varnish if you want at the end.
@@MediocreHobbies Thank you! I
Actually I have seen people apply a gloss coat to where they will be applying the transfer beforehand. It provides a slightly smoother surface for the transfer to stick to and allows you a little more ease to slide the transfer into place. After you’ve applied your transfer and let it dry you then go back in with a bit of matte coat to get rid of any shine.
What blue did you use for the Ultramarine pad? Looking for a similar colour for my Brettonians
Caldor sky I believe. Check out my other ultramarine videos to be sure.
Hey mate, great tips. Also, where did you get the clear acrylic paint stands from?
BTremary 6 Tiers Clear Nail Polish Display Rack Stand Holder,Acrylic Nail Polish Organiser Storage Rack Shelf Holds up to 96 Bottles,Essential Oil Paints Ink Holder www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08V8Y5ZZR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_229AZH5RT7QJSF7Q0FR2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Enjoy.
@@MediocreHobbies cheers
Did the Micro Set add a shine to the shoulder? My ultramarines are more matte, so I’d like to avoid adding a shine to the shoulders.
No that’s the transfers that are shiny. A quick coat of mat varnish will take that away if you don’t like it.
I find if you brush some on the bottom of the transfer then the top it speeds up the process
Oh cool, will give that a go! Thanks for that!
Can you paint over (white) decals using a contrast?
I have the Raven Guard upgrade pauldrons and was planning to paint then anthracite grey, following the same approach over the (white) squad symbol transfers?
I’m not quite sure what you mean. Sorry pal.
@Mediocre Hobbies basically I have the white decals that come with the Raven Guard upgrade kit. It comes with the Chapter pauldrons which can be painted, along with transfers for squad speciality.
I'm aiming for a more covert look, so was wondering whether you can paint over decals to change their colour?
Thanks for the Tutorial!
No worries pal. Glad you liked it.
these products don't ruin the color that was applied underneath right? Can I apply the decal without having put any layer of protective varnish on the model?
Yep you can indeed.
@@MediocreHobbies ty, it's my first time with decals
Always a question because I cannot get Microsol or micro set in my country. What do I do for imperial fist circular ones without it. They just break apart trying to set them every time
You for sure need a product like this to make it work on shoulder pads. You should be able to order it
@MediocreHobbies wish I could I've tried but in Australia it's not on Amazon, nothing in stores. I've tried Vallejo decal softener but yeah I've talked to so many hobby and players in my local store in it for years. They've all told me it's just not an option in Australia
To be honest you don’t really need the blue one. Water and a few coats of the micro sol (drying between applications) should be more than enough. The main thing for me is applying some watered down Matt medium to dull down the transfer, again that will take a few coats.
Hmmm I will have to check that out.
@@MediocreHobbies this is following a tutorial from an ex GW box art painter. He recommends daler-Rowney Matt glaze medium, a tub of it will last a lifetime.
@@johnfields5908 ace I will have to grab some. Thanks pal.
Awesome. Very helpful
Cheers pal
Not enough tutorials on transfers. Nice job! I love using Walthers Solvaset over Micro Sol/Set.
What’s the reason? I’ve never tried them.
Cant wait to try that with my cadians.
Sweet, love to see you going through all my old videos-there's a lot :D
Have they named them backwards? The microsol is to set the decal and the microset is a kind of solvent that softens the decal... Or have I misunderstood?
It always seamed backwards in my head as will but the bottle tells you it’s this way around lol
Epically fantastic transfer video. Great job! Do you have a tutorial on how you paint the trim you showed on those pads?
It’s just good highlighted with a bit of silver. I do it in loads of videos.
Maybe a bit left fielded but what colour did you use for the metallic rim?
Retribtuer armour
Sepia wash
Leadbelcher drybrush
Hope that helps.
@@MediocreHobbies it sure does! Cheers mate
Sitting on about 2500 points of salamanders painted, based, magnetized, no decals becauase i had no idea how to do it. Giving this a try tomorrow.
Oh great to hear that! If you have any questions let me know
@MediocreHobbies so I applied the micro set and it's not coming off the transfer paper. I've absolutely coated the decal and it's still not getting to where I can move it with the brush. If anything all it's done has accidently crimped the edge of the decal and now it's pretty much ruined. Exactly how much Micro set do I need because I applied at least 8 brushes worth onto it
@@MediocreHobbiesnevermind answered my own question. Answer was MORE lol
You can also use warm water for transfer removal.
I always had difficulties with the second generation of Night Lords transfers as those were spreading their wings in a horizontal way thus covering too much space. So any transfer applied would never stay flat on a curved surface.
The old NL transfers were superior. The wings were folded up and could be applied to shoulder pads in a flat way.
Because of these issues I later on chose custom chapters/traitor warbands were I could paint the corresponding symbol with a free hand technique.
Cheers dude.
What gold did you use on the shoulder trim?
Retrobuter or how ever you spell it lol.
Can you apply decals backwards? I have a USA flag and need it backwards but not sure if it’s possible
As far as I know, no! It’s like a sticker, the picture wouldn’t be on the other side! You might be able to get some custom ones printed somewhere though?
Micro set and sol are already out of stock :(
Hahah of course. Try your local hobby shops.
They're numbered Mi 1 and Mi 2, so you'll never forget the order ;)
Yeah…I only learned that after I thought I was being smart by labelling them 😂
Tnx for this video, can from the brettonia vid, doing this om all those models going be be “fun” even got some old decals, with just water is a nightmare 🤣
Don’t ruin your models! Just get the right tools for the job and you’ll thank yourself with the results
would it work if i added a little bit of an acid to water for the same kind of effect? vinegar for example...
Possibly. I wouldn’t know to much about that. What I will say is micro soo does smell and taste like vinegar lol
@@MediocreHobbies hmmn, that might help in applying transfers to some of my custom Gunpla kits...its amazing how well 40k wet transfers work on those as well...
@@darkclawgreatonenas ye there very good. I love using them.
Does the micro sol and set go off? I have some that are a few years old and after shaking the bottles the liquid was fizzing and bubbling and Jesus it smelt real bad like was burning my nose.
It smells kind of like vinegar and that’s normal. I don’t think it goes off.
@@MediocreHobbies well I had the bottles for like 5years before I opened them, and the smell burning my nose and the fizzing and bubbling of the stuff maybe me freak out so I threw them out and used Mr tamiya.
So you don’t need to number the kids as the bottles literally have a 1 and a 2 on them telling you which one to use first and 2nd🙃
What is the name of the item that is holding the base/figure? I can’t one find online
Miniature painting handles! This one is from GW but lots of brands make them for different sizes! Super handy :)
You will get a better result if you but gloss varnish below the transfers first, then add a bit of microsol on the mini, and move the transfer around in that, not in microset, after that use a bit of kitchen towel or similar soft paper wrapped around on the tweezers and suck of the excess, then apply the microset. also don't touch the microset, once that is dried use a bit of matt varnish to smooth it over. I personally sometimes also use the Vallejo products instead of micro sol and microset (Decal softener and decalfix). Also for moving the transfers a soft but stiff brush will avoid scratching up the transfers and the paintjob below.
Cheers pal.
What ahppens if you swap out the caps by mistake :D
You cry lol
✌️💚
Cheers dude.
I just spend hour to cut all the conected parts of transfer beetween ,,real" parts of decal, then spend another hour slowly puting it on shoulder pad, dry-wet, dry- wet, dry-w.... Really i must buy those things xd tnx
Oh no! Yes please make things easier for yourself!
@@MediocreHobbies yee i will do that, thanks again for showing us this metod
A comment for the algorithm.
Hahaha cheers as always.
you should of put the wrong decal on the wrong color to mess with people. =)
Hahahhahaha it would have got my comments going for sure. Lol your an evil genius.
Transfer folder you big nerd….. and I hope you can see my jealousy in this post I have sheets everywhere and most damaged due to my bad storage methods 😃
Hahahahah yep. If only I remembered to always put them away after using. So i to have damaged once everywhere lol
@@MediocreHobbies to be fair it’s a really smart way of keeping them pristine. New video idea….. 😂
Your microset looks a little low, we all know what happend there 😂 twitch stream inside joke.
Cheeky.