Does Spray Foam Insulation Need A Vapor Barrier?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.พ. 2021
- This is a very serious question and one that can be answered easily for each product: Open & Closed Cell spray foam.
This video will cover product specs, code requirements, and building science for air and water movement.
www.sprayjones.com/
Is 1 inch of spray foam insulation enough? • Is 1 Inch of Spray Foa...
Open cell foam • What is Open Cell Spra...
5 failures and why • 5 Spray Foam Insulatio...
How much foam do I need? • How Much Spray Foam In...
What Conditions do we need to apply? • What Conditions Are Ne...
Burning the SPF • Burning Spray Foam Ins...
SPF in contact with ground • Spray foam Insulation ...
Shingle life and SPF • Shingle Life and Spray...
The most dangerous SPF installers • Who are the most dange...
Why is our foam purple? • Why is our spray foam ...
Best practices for your basement • Best practices for spr...
Why is spray foam insulation safe and effective? • Why Is Spray Foam Insu...
The 10 Commandments of Spray Foam Insulation • The 10 Commandments of...
Can we inject spray foam into walls? • Can Foam Insulation Be...
Spray Foam Insulation for your New Home - Why? Before you Buy! • Spray Foam Insulation ...
4 Pitfalls of spray foam insulation • 4 Pitfalls Of Spray Fo...
Unvented roofs - Closed cell or Open cell • Unvented roofs - Close...
Trouble with spray foam - what 5 things do we test for? • Trouble with spray foa...
Low Income housing get SPF • Low Income Housing Get...
Spray foam insulation for metal buildings & Quonsets • Spray Foam Insulation ...
Spray foam insulation for basements - Rigid SM or SPF? • Basement Insulation - ...
Why put spray foam insulation under-slab? • Why Put Spray foam Ins...
How to know if you are talking to a Rogue SPF contractor • How To Know If You Are...
6 areas that need spray foam in your home • 6 Areas That Need Spra...
www.walltite.basf.ca
www.bbb.org/saskatchewan/busi... - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
![[UNCUT] ย้อนฟัง 2 บิ๊กตำรวจปะทะกัน "บิ๊กโจ๊ก VS รองแต้ม" ฟ้องเรียก 10 ล้าน!! I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vNpTtVjdcBo/mqdefault.jpg)
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 68 | คู่เอก "พระจันทร์ฉาย vs โจนาธาน"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/F3IM3w-XchI/mqdefault.jpg)
These are by far the best videos on spray foam properties and installation I've seen. Those of us interested in being true professionals want all of the nerdy details. Without that information we don't have true arguments against the uninformed and other products and procedures.
This!
This video was phenomenal. Everything I was looking for and more. Thank you for taking the time to make this.
You're very welcome!
Great video, with cutting edge info
Glad you liked it!
Amazing! I hope this channel gets you everything you're looking to get out of sharing. Thank you so much! I really appreciate videos by professionals, especially those who take the time to help the rest of us get a better understanding.
Glad you enjoy it!
Excellent video! I am going to attempt a DIY barndominium build in North Carolina and this video explained a lot. You sold me on the closed cell. Now to find a good installer.
Glad I could help!
Great info as always. Keep going into the technical end for us building science nerds!
Thanks! Will do!
Great info. Never knew about sealing the studs. Thanks
Many don't and it has to be done.
@@SprayJones true.. i blew in my garage with my leaf blower and in the winter i could see the studs and the nail dimples thru the cold wall..so i put r5 eps on top of the whole wall..then brought down the ceiling corners 8 in (2x4 trusses) and cut the drywall originally down to an access point where the insulation was feasible ..where before..all it was was.. wood basically.(2x4 wall..2x4 roof truss) now i have r20 in the corner with closed cell after moving the ceiling in and the wall down ..just enough to achieve the result..
I enjoyed how thorough this was, and I get it you are appealing to the masses. There are still some of us out here that really do prefer the details of how a thing works.
Thank you. It is impossible to please all. Overly technical is boring even to me.
Great data! Listened to every word.
Thanks Terry !
Nice data and nice explanation, thanks for sharing the knowledge!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for this. I'm going for the open cell with the plastic over top.
Good choice!
Excellent explanation. Thank you for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so so much for the detailed video!!! Exactly what I needed
Glad it was helpful!
Well reviewed. Air movement and water vapor is the issue.
Thanks
Wow I think I've binged most of your channel in a week. I have a 1978 house that I've been renovating for the past 12 years and I wish I knew this back then! I used a Remote Wall approach whereby the vapour barrier is moved to the outside of the framing and then rigid insulation is added. I used 6mil poly with acoustical sealant on all the stud locations and then 2 staggered layers of 3" EPS followed by a 1x4 rain screen and hardi-board. I also excavated to the footing and re-damp-proofed the concrete, added 6" EPS and then the dimpled drainage wrap. In the attic I moved aside the loose cellulose/fiberglass and used rigid foam above any wall partitions and above the exterior walls between the trusses. I used canned foam on any penetrations I could find. I used insulation stops to maintain roof deck ventilation and then buried it in 16" loose fiberglass.
I just had an energy audit done and I still have a bunch of air leaks. Not surprising after watching your videos. Obviously if I could go back I would have used closed cell on the outside of the foundation and indeed done a cape out from the footing and then done the interior 2x4 walls and done the un-vented cathedral. Now, I'm still tempted to do the attic because it is an absolute nightmare when I have had to go into the attic to do any work. But you've mentioned how awkward it is to shimmy into the corner. Believe me, I am well acquainted, with my 4/12 pitch and no raised heels. Is it out of the question to retrofit it without removing the ceiling drywall? I would be very tempted to remove the wall drywall on the mainfloor and hit it with 2 or even 1" of CC (plus the seam caulking) except I'm worried it would act as a double vapour barrier for the plywood. Is that a justified fear? I would also like to hit the rim joist area as it is half-cast in place 2x10s, but again, if there's poly on the other side would it be a vapour trap? My goal would be to reduce air leakage down maximally to allow me to get rid of natural gas appliances altogether. Thanks again for sharing so much. It's already made me advocate for more CC for clients.
Fantastic. I'm a former engineer (mechanical and environmental) and you would have been an excellent boss (and an excellent college professor). Thank you so much. I appreciate your great skill at sharing technical information in a way that is *useful*. I also appreciate your passion to make sure that your knowledge and experience gets out into the world for people like me to use.
Thank you Phil.
"Horse sense" wins in the end I guess.
O U T S T A N D I N G video. Thank you. I don't even care that you are saying permutable instead of permeable, because my understanding has been permuted, thanks to you.
It always amazes me how you anticipate the perfect question. I live in the Pacific North West (Seattle) and mold is a huge concern. I wanted to get an understanding of what was required (not just by code but by an expert). This goes above and beyond...explaining both foam types and the other required sealing. Excellent job... btw one thing about your videos that makes me smile, is your intro... always sounds like "Mike Spray Jones" :D
Thanks for the generous feedback.
@@SprayJones just the plain truth. Thanks for all the knowledge!
I also live in the PNW (WA) do you have anyone you recommend around here?
Excellent overview, you’re hired
Thank you!
@@SprayJones You are more than welcome..
I've been reluctant to use Spray Foam in recent years, although initially I was a big fan, because I'm concerned about hyper sensitivity from off gassing.
Your comments about 'skinning' both the inner and outside of the application helps reduce those concerns.
Because your trade is much more a science than most realize, it leaves quite a few unanswered questions.
For example, if the "skin", in and out, acts as a vapor barrier, how does the sheathing get enough air movement to keep it from drying out when the moisture results from condensation...
Naturally there are potential pitfalls in any method if not applied correctly.
The asphalt shingle problem in some homes being one of them.
Obviously everyone wants to be sure to not trap moisture. I see so many questions posted
that would do just that.
I have watched and am grateful for all of your videos.
I can say as a builder since the early 70's, your information should be a tutorial for anyone wanting to learn more about the subject.
@@RJ-sr5dv Thank You.
I would like to say thank you for all your info on spray foam . Would like to add that i just had a pole barn done and on the sturdi-wall steel brackets that anchor poles to foundation I noticed condensation forming on the inside of the building on exposed steel that didnt get covered with the closed cell foam So I covered the rest of the bracket with great stuff foam I know its not closed cell but hoping fixes issue . I am assuming its the thermal transfer through the steel
That it is. 100%. Steel is 400% more conductive than wood.
Mike, thanks for your excellent videos! I am building a house 25 miles NW of San Antonio in the Texas Hill Country. Our climate is relatively dry and definitely hot (it’s already into the 70’s F in mid February), so your video convinced me that open-cell foam without a poly vapor barrier is OK here. It’s a 6 inch exterior frame, so we have 6 inches of shaved open-cell in vertical walls, plus 6+ inches in the underside of the roof, covering the roof rafters. the We do have WRB outside (Tyvek) and a poly WRB on the roof (can’t recall the brand name, but it’s tough stuff). I wanted Zip board for the sheathing, but availability was a problem.
You noted this was sound practice for Texas. One thing I’ll mention, however - once you get farther east and closer to the coast, you get much more rain and humidity, so East and Gulf Coast Texas might need other practices (?). The area from Victoria TX through Houston over to Port Arthur is much more like Florida.
Would you still say open-cell without poly moisture barrier is OK for that climate? I’m thinking since you are cooling the interior far more than heating, open-cell without poly is still OK, but you’d know better than me. You might want to comment about that for your southeastern US listeners and subscribers, where it’s rainier and semi-tropical.
Thanks and keep up the great work educating everyone!
The answer to that is quite simple really. What does the code book say for the use of poly with batts in your county? Does it require it?
Secondly when designing things you should have the home / project drafted and those designers are going to help advise you on the individual nuances and needs for your specific region.
How can I advise you when I am in Canada and not aware of what is going on in your back-yard so to speak.
Huntsman is out of Houston and Dallas and they a lot of open cell foam in Texas, you can also chat with the horse's mouth.
Great info on the low density... What scares me, and should you... what amount of moisture moving through the assembly, held back by the skin of prior coat will be there? Ok, so if thats unknown, are you positive that the dew point isnt reached ? Do you know that this liquid water wont freeze? Too many unknowns for me. Hdf imo is a safer alternative. All of this said, its refreshing to see someone with an understanding of actual building science !! Sunscribed!
Thank you for your feedback and the sub.
Closed cell always has been the best product running.
I am not offended by the "excessive details" at all! When my turn comes to build my dream, I feel this is helping to make me the aware consumer I will need to be. For myself, I was a licensed plumber for 35 years, and kept the conditions of my license to the best of my ability. That said, I have seen and worked with other licensed professionals who seemed very careless- getting one past the inspector was more important than delivering a safe, complete job. Thanks for the details!
Thanks for that.
@@SprayJones Your the one doing the work!
I love detail,
Spray Jones is the ultimate info guide, backed by science I must say and appreciate. I do have one big question. Your advice, data is all perfect. But all this means nothing if the installer is worthless. So for us owner builders or just a need to watch out that the spray mix is right, the install is correct to live up to all your great advice. Could you do a detailed video as you do on how we are homeowners know we are getting not only the install done correctly but all the details that go with it. I understand we can be told that they will do it right, but is there things that you have seen on failed applications and details that your bad contractor will do over and over again. This worry keeps me up at night as they can tell me one thing and install in a different manner. Thanks for the info and your valuable time.
This already exists: playlist on "how not to be cheated" has many video topics that educate you on various subjects concerning foam and its installation.
To be informed on substrates, temps, primers, top coats, caulking, air sealing etc is to be able to spot fakes.
Would it be advisable to spray foam closed cell directly to the inside of a board and batten exterior siding application? The building is a post barn & apartment on slab with board and batten exterior siding. My concern would be moisture from outside and rain running into cracks and seems causing rot as well as leakage around windows & doors. At that point how could a board be replaced? So what should be applied to the interior of the siding before the spray foam application? Thanks for the video about vapor barrier use with open & closed cell foam.
Hey spray Jones you should do a video on batt and foam together 2/3 it would be very informative for people...
Like flash and batt? If yes, that video is coming out in 1 week from today. Just finishing it now.
If you're going to use batts use Earthwool by Knauf, it's pretty much the only product that really stops 50°C - 60°C transfer from the ceiling cavity.
@@jasonyork1435 better than Roxul?
The wood to wood seams is the 2nd reason I’m framing off the steel of my container, the closed cell foam will encapsulate the entire frame 💪
Great point!
Found your channel not long ago: WOW ! and THANK YOU for great content!
I have two questions: you could maybe answer here or for your next video?
1) I have hybrid slope (sloped section all around and a flat roof in the middle) roof and would like to convert my poorly vented attic to unvented one. I do know that I can do it for sloped roof, what about a flat one?
2) I have a MCU (cinder block) wall structure built in 50s and would love to insulate from outside a little. Most probably the wall will be reinforced with shotcreete but there will be no modifications to the inside (no vapor barrier and no additional insulation inside). Could I use a closed spay foam ? 1 inch ? - I am mostly concerned about vapor condensation, code, etc. Naturally, the thermal performance will be that of 1 inch spray foam.
I leave in Montreal, Quebec, Canada.
1. We do vaulted and flat ceiling attics all the time. In fact the cathedralized attic is our most common. You have to open it up from the inside 100% to get it properly sprayed non-vented.
2. I do not understand what you are trying to achieve. You want 1 inch on the outside of cinderblock? Yes that can be done. Watch the video on "in contact with ground".
Thanks for watching.
16:53 I too get mad at hoses sometimes. 😅
So what about the bottom and top of each stud that is parallel with top and bottom chords? It's the same wood to wood connection.
What about water proof wood being used as well ?
I just wanted to know if a plastic vapour barrier was advisable on 2" of Closed Cell foam in a small wood construction building approx 12'x15'. Yes or No.
No, but caulk seams to be airtight.
Do you think it would be worth taking the extra minute when framing to seal between 2 boards in the framing process using caulking when the boards are sister'd? I am just wondering for when I build my home. I am on the fence of whether to go ICF all the way to the rafters, or just ICF in the basement and then traditional framing above. If I do framing above, I have even considered T studs to remove some thermal bridging or alternating 2x4's in a 2x6 wall.
All of what you say is fine, if the weather and the day allows to do so. It still will not take the place of interior caulking with hi-grade materials.
I like framing for above grade since you can be more selective on your choices.
What type of sealant is that blue stuff?
I don't think you talked too long. Good job with the diagrams
Thanks
Great video. Question - What is the heat resistance properties of a closed cell foam?
Constant service temp is 90 C. or 180 F.
@@SprayJones excellent but possible to go further? (Over engineered)
Good Morning Mike! Thank you for your help and expert knowledge in the field! I am getting conflicting information on my current project. I understand what you are saying about air infiltration and how moisture can condensate only if it that occurs. I have a situation where the post frame building that I am working on was basically converted from just a barn, to a barnominium. 2x6 exterior wall construction was added after the perlins were installed, so we have a 7" cavity to work with. The exterior of the building was wrapped with tyvek before installing the metal on half of it. The other half has osb on exterior with the tyvek on the outside (under wrap-around porch) Here is my question: Do I need to remove the tyvek in order to have the foam directly applied to the metal thereby eliminating that tiny air gap between tyvek and 9" ribbed metal? Some are saying it depends on which foam I am going to apply. Some are saying it needs to be removed no matter what since the sun can heat up the metal potentially in the summer and create that Hot/cold clash. The upstairs bonus room may be conditioned in the summer at some point, but for now, the building will basically just be heated in the winter (OHIO) with radiant floor heat. Thank YOU!
I think what's best is for you to watch the video I made: spraying to Tyvek. This will answer 98% of what you are asking. If you still have questions send me an email via my web site and I will see what I can do.
For quick help: closed cell foam is the best product to start with, then where you install and how is answered in that video I just gave you.
I am planning to build a stick construction metal frame and roof house in Oklahoma. If spraying open cell, is it okay to spray directly to the metal without and exterior sheathing/vapor barrier? I want to make sure we won't have condensation issues, but also save money any where possible. Thank you for your great videos!
Use closed cell, it still gets cold there.
@@SprayJones you don’t think open cell at 3” on metal walls and 6” roof will be okay then? If not, small amount of closed cell then top off with open to save money?
what about double stud wall with Open Cell? Read an article in Fine Home Building a couple of years ago and a builder in NH was doing just that. He said that 11 inches of open cell is enough.
You know that I concur that it can do it. The fact is proving it or having someone with authority sign off on it.
This is why external insulation is so important in new construction.
Excellent video explanation! When you say "install to the required thickness", is there a relation to the vapor barrier calculation as the outside design temperature gets lower? In other words, if the outside design temperature is -27F/-32C, you need a minimum thickness of (I'm just throwing out a number) 4" of closed cell foam for the wall to meet the vapor barrier requirements at that temp (whereas maybe if the outside design temperature of 0F/-18C you would only need 2")?
It is so idiots can't claim 1/4" is enough...
Hey spray jones my garage ceiling is all open Iam thinking of spray foaming the ceiling and not drywalling ,alot of cold and snow here in wi will i have a moisture problem with the roof, thanks great channel i want to heat my garage.
Not if done properly....
Please watch my playlist on vaulted ceilings. All your questions are answered in those vids.
@@SprayJones thanks I will have a experts do it love your videos
Hello I recently had my open framed basement walls spray foam with open cell foam. I have 2x6 studs and was supposed to get 3.5 inchs of coverage. what I am finding is inconsistent thicknesses primarily around the studs and heaviest in the middle of the cavity and in some spots they had to shave it flush. Before I finish the walls can I spray over the areas that are not as thick as the others to bring it more uniform?
I suggest you watch my video on "is there waterproof spray foam"
Then "is spray foam a vapor barrier"
Sounds to me like you need to put the brakes on things until you can verify some facts.
Unless you are talking about interior walls for rooms and not the outside cold walls....
Hey @SprayJones I'm in Nova Scotia and was looking at putting spray foam in the attic. Currently fibreglass. There's a polyethylene wrap under the fibreglass, in between the ceiling joists and the drywall ceiling. Can you spray foam directly on this surface or should it be removed? If I had to use some rigid foam board in certain areas and there was some trapped air in between the foam board and the polyethylene, couldn't vapours get caught and cause rot?
You need good and solid adhesion. You cannot spray to poly. Foam foam MUST be well adhered or you will have issues as well.
Hey SJ, Where can I buy the sealer your using with the Electric sprayer to seal studs? Thanks. John
From a Knauf distributor in the USA.
I have a 40x60 barndomium in Mississippi andhouse wrap on the wall and exposed metal roof, can I use open cell in the roof
Yes
So should I build my barndominium/pole barn home with 2x4 instead 2x6?
No.
The posts are structural and must be so deep for support.
Is it ok to use an external insulation that provides vapor barrier such as Halo Exterra with closed cell spray foam inside insulation?
Yes.
How dry does cement foundation have to be , before foam application?
Like you are going to paint.
Mike, should I use Walltite or Spraytite from BASF to encapsulate my crawl space? has concrete block with stone floor and is conditioned space. Want to spray walls and floor 2" 2lb close cell. What is the difference? Thank you! Dan
In USA it is Spraytite. In Canada it is Walltite. Simple
Would 3 inch of close cell on house wrap work in a pole barn situation in terms of condensation forming inside between the drywall? Or would more be required and i vapor barrier inside behind the drywall
You are asking about Marshall Remodel?
The answer is in this video and the Pole Shed video I did in 2019. You know 3 inches is enough.... So why did it happen? What was not done?
I will be doing a special video to address this soon.
Thanks for your reply. Yes I was referring to the Marshall build but also my own future build. I will continue to watch all your videos to find my answers!
So would open cell work for my shed in Florida? We don’t use a vapor barrier here due to high humidity.
Use closed as much as you can. I tell the gulf coast guys the same.
What is your opinion on closed cell sprayed directly on metal roof panels and walls?
Works well. Go watch videos in the metal building playlist.
Could you do a break down video of your costs, or typical costs? It would be nice to see some transparency in numbers...
No way.
@@SprayJones That is a shame.. It would be nice to see how Capex and Opex run into pricing models..
Way to many variables! There no such thing as a set sf price... people ask me all the time
Even if one could be accurate with numbers tipping your hand on the math is never a good idea. Too many idiots out there would use it against a guy.
@@eightpenny6379 Material cost and startup costs are readily available.. But adding in actual Capex and Opex costs, set up times and such would show that end cost per BF is actually very reasonable, or not.. Depending...
Thank you so much for going into all these details! I'll be building this summer and your videos certainly help me to know what to ask contractors in my area (northern Wisconsin).
If I use a Huber Zip sheathing with the 2" rigid foam panel on the exterior, and then a 2" closed cell foam inside, would I still need to caulk or air seal where two studs join up against each other?
Or would you recommend the zip sheathing with 2" of rigid foam on the exterior and then doing an open cell full cavity fill? Would this still require poly since there is the 2" of rigid on the exterior?
I realize you don't service Wisconsin, so you can't give a definitive answer, but I am curious which way you would go.
Thanks in advance!
Thank you for your words.
Check out Matt Rizzingers channel, he has a bunch of good info. There is also a video on air sealing with a blower door and atomized caulk, they can seal a whole house from air leaks with that in a day.
I'm building a steel home, not a barndominium, the steel mfg sent and charged me for a product called Sol_R_Eclipse, but I cant find how I can add insulation to this, wanted to have 3" spray foam closed cell . Please give me your thoughts. the roof and walls are steel , MFG says to use this product between the siding and the girts/perlins. walls and roof.
Sounds like an underlay.
Honestly that is between you and your contractor to figure. Some products the foam cannot stick to, but that is rare.
Could you please share the brand of this blue spray on caulk shown in the video? Can this be applied with a regular airless sprayer?
And thank you for the excellent videos!
Eco Seal
Thank you. You're the man. I've started fighting my local building Inspector. I'm going to have to hire a PE to get a code variance.
Great video. Are you folks in London Ontario? And if not any recommendations for a certified contractor. I live in a 20’s era home and my attic has been taking a beating - it’s an open vent cavity for years we have had ice dams during the winter months. Everything In my home is lath and plaster do I need to start from the bottom up in order to keep exterior air from making its way up the attic through any openings? You’re direction would great appreciated.
No to London.
Have to choose from wide array of choices out that way.
We are building a barndominium. Will closed cell stick to the metal? If so Will this add structural integrity? If the house is wrapped, how will that affect the closed cell spray foam?
Please go to the metal building playlist and watch 3 or so videos that discuss all that info and more!
Thank you for the informative video! With you being located in CA, is there a contractor you would recommend in the Buffalo, NY area?
I really don't know.
Where is Kyle & Sons Spray foam located in New York.
@@SprayJones they’re in Oswego, NY about 2.5-3.0 hrs away. I’ll check them out, thank you!
Awesome video, thanks for all the info! I'm in the process of designing a really tight, high efficiency home in Virginia. I'm planning on using ZIP R sheathing + open cell. will probably also do aerobarrier. I think that should be enough for vapor permeance and air sealing...thoughts?
Yah, watch Tuesday's video on thermal bridging and studs. Will be showing thermal image scans.
@@SprayJones awesome, thanks for the response. I'll definitely watch it.
In Oregon who is the best equipment to buy a ready to go rig w/ training ? I had a trailer I was building out my self till it was stolen right out of my yard. Now I will just buy one ready to go.
Yikes! Sorry to hear that. I have no idea about equipment turn key. Sorry..
Tip for remote self contained security cameras on site I use Zeitdice time lapse cameras. Set to take a photo every few seconds. These create time lapse videos if later review needed. Handy once walls are closed if others need to see how something was built or located. Also a great CYA asset on any job.
Excellent vids! What happens to the wall cavity when some people install a 6 mil vapor barrier over closed cell?
Assuming any moisture will get trapped. What if some interior vapor gets past the 6 mil.....could that compound the issue?
Trouble if things are not complete. Why do you want to use poly with poly?
I commented a few times in some Facebook groups stating that one should not cover the closed cell with a vapor barrier...some stated that there would be no issues of doing so. I disagreed...but wasn't sure exactly of all the long term issues one (they) would encounter. This is concerning tiny homes where they can have elevated humidity levels in the winter.... and no doubt the redundant vapor barrier wasn't even installed/sealed correctly in the first place. My guess is that the excess moisture could get past the vapor barrier and have no where to go......@@SprayJones
@@sealik1 I will do a video on this subject. Time to put it to bed once and for all.
Excellent!....thank you for responding.@@SprayJones
Maybe you already have a video on this, but I was wondering. Why purple? Is it just a coloration of the foam you use or did you choose it.
Watch the video.
Have you done any buildings using T-studs? I am wondering if they could be used in the corners and still be able to use closed cell?
We have not seen T stud where I am yet. I imagine they will work just fine.
@@SprayJones They would largely solve the issues of thermal bridging and wood extending the cold surfaces past the closed cell vapor barrier. If only the truss pegs were plastic instead of wood, then you could really seal things as vapor couldn't migrate thru the wood. They are probably ridiculously expensive though.
@@court2379 Please watch the thermal bridging video to see what is really an issue.
I’m putting closed cell on basement walls . Going to dry wall the Cellini joists and walls. There is fiber glass batts above that ie under the first floor deck. Should I remove the paper vapor barrier which is facing the first floor deck?
So this is inbetween the floor joists? Like for sound control?
I am fuzzy on your details.
@@SprayJones sorry for the confusion. I’m referring to the fiberglass batts up in the joists in the basement. Once I spray foam the basement concrete walls and finish the space with drywall should I remove the paper backed batts between the joists before I drywall the basement ceiling, I’m concerned about moisture forming on the paper vapor barrier in the batts between the joists. BTW, the paper faces up under the first floor.
@@MultiTravelingman We spray from the concrete floor all the way into the floor joists. When we do all the fibrous has been removed.
Does this help?
Can I spray this foam over vermiculite insulation on a attic floor?
Absolutely NOT.
My question to jones I'm building a barndominium in GA, I'm gonna use closed cell foam from walls to ceiling completely sealed up, do I need to put plywood between the metal an studs for barrier or can I use something else like foam board?? Or do I even need it?? Thanks
Plywood you can
Foam board will be ify.
What do the metal building installers feel about having to go through foam to mount the metal? Changes a lot of things: screws, depth, offsets, flashings etc.
I am not the designer, I try to cover materials and what they will or will not do as discussion and education pieces.
You need to have a professional do a final once over on what you are going to do and why.
@@SprayJones prob just gonna use osb as my vapor barrier and they ok w it then spray foam the whole house. Do the spray foam companies have or use that spray sealant for the wood joints or will I need to do that myself? I will be checking for maintained throughout and overseeing the spray foam process esp since what it costs to have it done
@@petecook1611 The SPF company should seal it up with caulk, but most have no idea. Buyer beware.
Yes you can use foam board between studs or girts. You just want to make sure the wood grip screws are atleast an inch into your studs past the foam board. It would help with thermal bridging. Ply wood helps too but not as good. In my case, i have a red iron barndominium so i have metal on metal so i made sure to put 1” foamular for exterior sheathing i intend to follow up with open cell foam because i live in the South.
What about the double top plate ?
Of course. I am not going to mention every single space. Get the principal and take logical next steps.
Hey, nice video, a lot of information. I am planning to install spray foam in my basement foundation, but I am concerned about water leaks, I have two tiny cracks that leak a little bit, can I install closed spray foam on top of that? What happens if I have a new crack in the future and that crack leaks, will that damage my spray foam?
Watch the "is there waterproof spray foam" video.
@@SprayJones, I watched the other video, it answered all my questions, but I have one more question. Can I spray foam my basement wall if I have efflorescence marks everywhere?
@@brunomourasilva6247 Yes you can. Wipe them off from the inside, vacuum it up and spray away.
@@SprayJones, lol do ever created a video talking about ROI or how much energy spray foam will save vs other types of insulation? A guy is saying that if we spray foam our basement walls with spray foam the sill plate will rot, is that true?
@@brunomourasilva6247 No, that is ignorance gone to seed.
I have 2 pages worth of video suggestions to make, and that one is on the list.... someday.
It all depends, much like so many things in life
IF
How come when using closed cell you don’t just use a high quality vapor barrier for redundancy sake? Would that have solved Mr Marshall’s issues?
No it would not have. That was self evident when we showed what the issue was.
Are you a scientist Spray Jones? Where did you learn to read all this technical jargon? Also long videos are best videos! TH-cam algorithms also like them.
I am just a regular person that has to make sense of all this info for my business.
5.5 inch of of open cell form at attic ceiling in Atlanta, Georgia. Vapor barrier?
What is your state or country requirement? Code comply first.
Is there a professional organization of insulation contractors in the United States that I can reference for a quality contractor in my particular locality?
Nope. Put no faith in titles, vet the person you are hiring and learn about the product and process too.
Very informative . Could we use the closed cell foam method to vapor barrier an indoor swimming pool?
Yes, absolutely
I ordered a prefabricated metal garage (32’x24’) that is being installed on concrete. I ordered the building with the double bubble vapor barrier for the underside of the roof only. Would it be okay to have closed cell foam sprayed installed on the double bubble vapor barrier after being installed? Now knowing what you talked about in this video, I’m assuming I can have closed cell installed directly onto the walls without the need of a separate vapor barrier.
Maybe I should have them do open cell on the roof since I already ordered the vapor barrier for the underside of the roof?
@lifeislucci what did you end up doing? I'm looking at closed cell foam on mine now.
@@CrimsonYetiCartoons I found a local spray foam company to install 2” of closed cell spray foam on all the walls. I just installed a Mr Cool DIY 36,000 BTU mini split and it is awesome inside. The roof only has the double bubble radiant barrier as of right now. I am going to see how it does this winter with retaining heat and decide if I need to get spray foam installed on the roof as well
@lifeislucci Thank you so much for the reply, brother. I have a brand new steel frame building. I am planning on doing closed cell foam myself. Always glad to hear it worked well for others.
@lifeislucci also glad to hear the Mr. Cool worked well for you. I plan on getting one as well.
My husband and I are remodeling a geodesic dome. We are pondering how to insulate the ceiling. it is 2x6 framing and about 4000 sq ft of ceiling. how would you do it? closed cell or what?
Always closed cell. Can almost never go wrong.
@@SprayJones there is no ventilation with it,,, will spray foam do it or do we need more? We have tried to figure it out for awhile. some say we need a copula that we can open windows for ventilation, some say we don't need it if we do closed cell. We also have 23 skylights to deal with. Does that factor into it at all? We need help!
@@melissalaird2006 Stay tunes. I have a 4 part series on roofs starting this month!
@@SprayJones what’s the name of 4 part series, is one them how to find a good installer, is there a License we should be look for
Thanks
Dupont says no for both it's open and closed cell foam products.
We’re in sw Michigan &Our builder sprayed open cell foam in our barndomenium even tho i requested the first layer closed cell. He claims it makes no difference but I disagree since we don’t have osb just house wrap behind the steal. Do you think this will be a problem over time & with selling & getting a loan?
That is too broad of a question. Problem? There can be all sorts of issues with anything if steps are skipped.
Water intrusion?
Using a vapor barrier? I think you should
Etc etc.
@@SprayJones so I talked to a drywaller at church this morning & he said it would be difficult to glue the drywall with that vapor barrier.
I am in Canada and vapor barrier is mandatory for outside walls. No one glues drywall on outside walls, that's what screws are for.
@@SprayJones with cathedral walls it’s even more recommended along with screws. Very large boards makes a very heavy wall.
Dumb question, if you put spray on, which side does the vapor barrier go on ?
Vapor barriers always need to be on the warm side. So in cold climates inside and in hot climate outside, if cooler interiors.
very informative , I just had a garden suite sprayed last year . drywall all on and cabinets in ,,, then air blower test failed ... opening walls now and seeing catastrophic failures in the corners and just all over . no taping of stacked jacks and headers . the foamers are blaming the builder the builder blaming the foamers ?? who's job is it . I live in far northern Canada . The house will not pass the air test . not even close . after finding many many many breaches in foam job .. i don't know who is at fault or how to go about it ..
SPF guy to know their job for sealing the walls and such. If they don't want to do something then they need to make that clear in writing to the builder who'll have to get it looked after.
Envelope (with exception of windows and doors) is that of the SPF company.
Spray caulk? Such a thing exists? Commercial only or is it available at hardware stores?
It is a commercial grade product vs retail yes.
@@SprayJones too bad. That would make sealing the seams in a shed-to-house project so much easier as a DIY project.
Are there any downsides to using a vapor barrier even if I live in one of the southern states you mentioned?
If open cell 90% of your time the VB will need to be external. With CC it does not matter....
Wouldn't it be much easier to just do your air barrier sealing on the outside instead of the inside of the structure?
You need both. We are showing just one.
@@SprayJones what video explains why need both inside and outside air Barrier
I was wondering what foam I should use in the top of a fiberglass silo dome.I need it to perform 2 functions, the first being a moisture seal and the second is for some insulation value. It’s 45 feet up and accessiblity is limited.
Closed cell.
Too good video. I didn't indetstand sh*t.
DUDE! East HALF of Texas, is the same as LOUISIANA, hot humid, miserable. You DO need vapor barrier. From about Dallas West, yes it is semi-desert.
Good, I start the conversation, not provide a perfect analysis on what to do where.
Wait…burst in flames?!!
Anyone else think he sounds like Kevin Spacey?
4 inches of open cell with a Tyvek type vapor barrier is fine. Done and done. Poly will only create convection moisture with the open cell. Which promotes rot. You can also do hype tech channeling to help vent in large areas. This is old information. Building inspector knowledge is far to old school at this point. Closed is best on a roof situation or under building type applications. People are just being stupid. Most of these foams are far more over engineered for their purpose. The chemical compound structure and gassing before cure is fine and final. Absolutely use a 30 year silicon caulking before hand. Air is really the enemy here. Application temperature and outside temps are key. Dont apply in the winter below 40 deg if you can help it.
Thanks for watching
Just built a 24x24 cabin with vaulted ceiling. Closed cell is too expensive. Spray foam guy says you dont need a vapor barrier with open cell just in the ceiling. Dont know whats right and i feel like hes just trying to sell me the job.
Do you need vapor barriers in your area? Are they code when using open fibrous? Do your codes reference a stand for vapor barriers, most do.
Educate on what is enforced and why in your area.
If the answer is yes for above, then open cell foam will probably need one too, unless they have a clause saying it does not.
Yes… foam can emit fumes.
And ice is slippery when wet.
Perfect amount of talking. :)
Education and lazzyness.. The problem with the industry.
Cheap and quick is what is wanted. Ohh and ofcourse they know better than the engineer.
Thank you, and I agree.
Hi Mr Jones. Ive been watching a lot of your videos lately. If you spray foam the wall with closed cell 1st with no framing, is it necessary to caulk the pressure treated plate and seams still? Thank you
If plate is connected to outside, then yes.