I had a cabin with closed cell. It had moisture in it. My hvac professional slowed the a/c air flow by 20% and the air was great. 30% humidity. System cycled 1-2 times per hour in the summer. Done deal.
I am at a loss at the views you are getting. If Google really is this company that embraces climate change, they should have you at the top of the list of recommended videos. Come on TH-cam, step up to the plate, and promote this channel for the good of the environment 🤷🏼♂️. Videos like these should be getting millions of views.... I’m Just Saying ⚡️⚡️⚡️
Great video Spray Jones.. very informative!! I do have one question regarding the information you mentioned regarding 2x4 construction walls. We are currently renovating an older bungalow around 1000 square feet which has 2x4. We have decided that we are going to spray form the basement exterior walls with closed cell. We have exposed a couple of exterior walls upstairs which has compressed paper back insulation with ultra thin vapor barrier. With the possibly large difference in R-Value, Would you recommend we exposed all exterior walls and replace with new R-14 or continue close cell spray foam throughout the entire house? The house is also getting a 97% AFUE furnace
You should spray as much closed cell SPF as you can while you have it opened. Next week I will be doing a video on a wet basement and how it was solved with SPF. Then a 4 part series is coming out on everything to do with walls and SPF. Part 1 is 2"x 4" so stick around you will like what is said.
Camera tip: Pan and tilt camera slowly to eliminate blur and to keep the viewer from getting motion sick. Slower camera movements also allow the viewer to process visual data better.
I love the flip phone comment, I've worked with so many people that when they disagree they will say we've been doing it like that for 30 years...still doesn't mean it's right!
The whole "too tight" issue depends on your ventilation system. If you're depending on goofy stuff like whole house fans and open windows? YES. You can make a house too tight. If you move to a mechanical ventilation system? No. You can't make a house too tight.
I’d love to see your opinion(video) on AeroBarrier...in your opinion is it useless compared to spray foam insulation? Does it work well in combination with spray foam insulation or is this overkill? Does it make other forms of insulation more comparable with spray foam insulation? Would really value your opinion!
Man I wish I had the money to do a complete retrofit and get that optimum exchange of fresh air. Very informative, all systems need to work together fluidly.
@@SprayJones thank you for the good vibes. I've heard of this book "the secret". I'm just staying positive and working on constructive things. And of course watching all your videos lol.
@@SinnisjInsulator I like the glass is half full people a whole lot better than the half empty.... The secret is a tickler, the real source manual for increase is found in the bible. Blessing is God's way.
I suggest the mini-splits for smaller homes but honestly the traditional ducted system is going to give better results in a larger home with many rooms . The newer HVAC systems offered today can be just as efficient as a mini-split . My 1150 sq ft barn style cabin home is spray foam insulated and I use one 24k mini-split though . They are awesome for the smaller houses IMO .
Do mini-split systems have fresh air exchanging capability? Without that, you would just be recycling inside air in a well sealed house and not controlling the air freshness.
A ducted mini split is only good for either a smaller home, or for a smaller section of a home. It doesn’t have the static pressure needed to distribute the air across a long run in a larger home.
I’ll preface this by saying I am an amateur at all of this mechanical ventilation stuff but am in the process of getting ready to build and want to do it right the first time. With spray foam closed cell on walls and roof the idea here is you are creating a tight envelope. The use of ridge vents on the roof and vents along the soffit DEFEAT the purpose of using spray foam due to the fact your lose the air tightness in the attic which will diminish the air tightness of the rest of the house …..is this correct? Or does it not make a difference? If this is correct, then you absolutely need a mechanical ventilation system (HR. Or ERV) to counteract the potential negative impacts of having a “tight” home? Is this more or less an accurate understanding of this? I commend you on your knowledge and efforts with your videos. One of the few I have seen that provides education info and presents it in a manner that is easy to understand for those not in the industry. Great work.
A lot of people don't know when you use spray foam that your hvac system will be smaller, almost half the size (depending on how many windows you plan on having of course)
@@stcharleshometheater I eventually want to replace my outer insulation with sprayfoam one day. But right now my better half has us replacing all the windows and exterior doors in our home. 😃. It will be a while before we get the funds for the project that will bring our investment back quicker lol.
I have a new construction and spray foamed house. Live in Midwest Indiana. Closed cell walls and open cell attic on rafters. Operator didn't do too bad but I don't think my headers etc were air sealed. I took trim off in my son's room at seal plate for floor and air was blowing right through the 2×4. I sealed with Great stuff. Is there a way to seal above doors and windows with out ripping out drywall?
I just got spray foam installed in my new construction addition and because of that the county requires that the HVAC has a vent that pulls air from the outside. My question is how will we keep things like wildfire smoke and pollen out of the house?
We are retrofitting a 40x16 one story cabin with a block basement in northern Michigan. We have gutted the walls and ceilings. We want to make the 20x16 living toom a cathedral ceiling. Ive watched dozens of your videos trying to learn how best to insulate and manage moisture. We plan to use spray closed cell foam. This is a vacation home for all seasons but not fulltime residence. We want to heat with a wood burning stove with electric supplement heat. So no central forced air furnace. If we spray foam the basement walls and rim joist and spray foam under a basement slab ( currently dirt floor) and spray 2x4 walls and 2x4 rafters in the vaulted ceiling, how should we managed air exchanges and replacement air for wood burner and bathroom and kichen exhaust fans?
Open a window.... Lol. Honest, you should ask the HVAC people. Since it is a cabin you need to find a simple solution for fresh air make up. Maybe a simple damper system can be installed. It may be best to consult with Energy Wise Structures in Texas. Pay a little money for their advice..
@@SprayJones thanks. I agree something simple is probably best. I may be over thinking it. There has been so much moisture in this place that I'm starting to obsess over it. Ill talk to an HVAC guy.
mechanical contractors dont exist here . lol the ones that do... wont bother with residential. All of the HVAC I have called out are just after the quick fix. They spit out duct sizes off the top of their head. Another great video.
@@SprayJones Unfortunately i am not a "business guy". Could be that this area for some od reason doesn't want to spend money on comfort and efficiency.
I've enjoyed this series a lot. Currently have an old fishermans cottage gutted back to the stone walls. Roof done, doors and windows done and currently trying to work out the best option for insulating. I have to say I've been sold on foam but really have to consider what I'll need as far as HVAC goes. Its a tiny cottage and I don't really have the space for a mechanical system. It seems you really cant win here. Wishing I went new build at the start.
I would definitely use spray foam, I would also use a mini split system like a diy Mr cool, (if you wanted to install it yourself) or you could use a hotel style window ac/heat pack
what do you recommend to insulate a 1969 mobile home underneath i inherited from my parents. It's so cold. there's no insulation the last person got evicted and stripped place everything. it's in country on half acre land beautiful by stream in bluffs alot deer and animals out here. my dream come true for location just needs alot TLC now.
Update it to a heated crawl space. Insulate the perimeter, poly cover the soil, heat the space to balance the temps out. All advice is just suggestions since I have no idea what is actually there...
In new construction how much more does it cost to do all this. Air tighten envelope, condition space, erv/hrv, dehumidifier, from the engineer and drafter plan to construction labor and materials
Thank you for answering my question so quickly on "knowing how to get a quality spray foam installer". I watched every video you did. I am building a 4,200 sq foot home. It will have a conditioned attic, a fresh air system, and the HVAC will be housed in the conditioned attic space with separate dehumidifier system. All designed by an engineer. So, one last question. Structurally I will have wall studs that 2x6 or 2x8, dependent on what the structural engineer may deem worthy. As I have seen in your videos with ROI on closed cell (thanks for backing it with true data) 2/3 inches of closed cell in both wall and in the conditioned attic space and ceiling of the internal living space. Again focusing on air sealing and thermal breaking. If I do that, then is my home considered done? meaning that it is unnecessary to do batts, further vapor barrier etc. I understand that this is all conditional based on proper install, but with 2 inches just wonder if there is anything more. This 2 inch closed foam is excellent and as I am going to have a deep wall cavity it leaves plenty of space for electrical wiring and plumbing. As if in the future I do not have worry about a plumbing leak or an electrical replace and have to dig out the wall. Like I would have to do with open cell foam and shaving. Thanks also for the tip on taping the joists and wall studs. Another great tip to know if you have a good contractor! Thanks again for all you videos. You the MAN!
I have no dealings with 1.75 so I really can't comment. 2 lb is anywhere from 1.85 - 2.1 usually. Just compare other factors: thermal value based on thickness, water absorb, etc.
Love Spray Foam insulation and recommend it for insulating most of the home. I believe there needs to be some areas in the home that use other insulation systems to meet the air exchange that a home needs. I have personally seen many, many homes that have air tight spray foam with top of the line Air ventilation systems that have major molding and moisture problems. Modern ventilation systems may have improved the monitoring of the proper air exchange to prevent this problem but the old systems suck.
I do not agree. We don't selected leaky envelopes to deal with interior space. Think about what you just said.... you want to allow air to move through walls and roofs - in some areas - to provide humidity control?? How does an airplane work? Everything has cause and effect and when one space is sealed up then controlled air must be brought in to achieve temperature level & humidity levels. That is what mechanical engineering is about.
I love your commentary and the information you share...definitely keeps me liking, subscribing, and coming back! I am going to make a spray foam order from a manufacturer and would like to know what is most important, to request, when ordering closed cell foam for a 3 inch layer, in a south Texas high humid environment, within a temperature range up to 100 degrees Fahrenheit, but no lower than 40 degrees Fahrenheit.
Thanks for watching. I do not follow, what is most important to request? 3 inches of closed cell in south Texas is fine, more than fine. What else do you need to know?
@@SprayJones, through watching your media, I learned that I can order the spray foam from the manufacturer, but need to make sure that the foam will work in my climate, not a freezing cold climate, and I’m not sure if that is two different types of foam, or not. I will be ordering barrels weighing over 200 kgs each, and don’t know what specifications are for equipment I should be purchasing as well. I’m generally trying to make sure I don’t overlook something a professional would know immediately, that a project manager that doesn’t specialize in this field may overlook.
@@pumah96 So I understand, you are starting to spray foam...like a one time job or you are now a contractor? The red flag is that no one picks up the phone and just orders foam, you need all the gear and to be orientated, assigned a company rep who will get you pricing, check your gear, provide tech data and support, just to name a few...
@@SprayJones, yes, I am a project manager, I went straight to the manufacturer, have a rep that translates English to understand what I am requesting, I will need to know all required training, equipment, regulation, codes, but the chemical specification requirements is the part that requires someone with experience to most easily discern, where the other components, I can find out, as I have through other industries, through documentation.
@@SprayJones I will be building a facility, am preparing to learn the trade enough in the next year to do this aspect of the build myself because there are several projects that will require this trade in almost every major project. So I’m planning and preparing to be ahead of the curve. You are the most knowledgeable person in your field that I’ve seen online, so you have been my best shot to reach my goals, and I am appreciative~
Has anyone done a study on what happens to a home that relies on mechanical ventilation when it is either unoccupied/abandoned or without electricity for an extended period? 🤔
Not that I am aware of officiall My father in law had his house sprayed by us in 2007, 1920 built home. No HVAC, just his fireplace and in-floor heat from a coal-fired boiler in the middle of the yard. That house has not been lived in until Dec 2018. There are no issues from a mold or condensation issue. The house has a smell to it from always being closed up and all the wood stains inside, smells like and old church and pinesol.
@@SprayJones It's the ONE thing I can't seem to find anywhere that's made a true test on. You see plenty of old houses lay vacant for decades with little structural degradation, granted they're usually uninsulated and drafty as a beer keg... But what about new, high performance homes that are built tight to say, passive standards? If they rely so heavily on HVAC+D for moisture control and ERV/HRV for ventilation in order to be at "longevity" conditions... What happens when the power goes out? 🤔 There's always the catch phrase "built to last" but it assumes constant occupancy and electrification... I'd consider a home "built to last" if it could survive "on its own" like a castle or a pyramid or something 🤷♂️
Excellent video could do without the sarcasm. My son is a mechanical engineer and they do the calculations you are referring to in all construction projects.
@Spray Jones - I still have concerns with sealing off the wood in homes especially flat roof where there is no ventilation to keep the top chords of ijosts dry to avoid rot.
@@darrellstruth839 Go watch the 4 part series on non vented roofs. What about a commercial roof low slope with rigid insulation and a membrane? There is no venting in that either.... yet that is done millions of time per year across North America.
@@SprayJones - commercial roof structure are normally within the building envelope thus moisture is controlled by the HVAC, which here in Alberta is usually dry. I will watch that suggested 4 part series. This is quite related to what I do and need to advise customers properly. So far I am impressed with the foam products, but I think I am a little gun shy of them due to the 1970's spray foam scandal's!
@@darrellstruth839 Just keep on learning, there is enough info on this channel to answer this. You cannot pass water through closed cell foam. So how is a top cord to get wet? From the exterior? Well if it does then the external envelope has failed, not the SPF system.
@@Redhawk24 Obviously the system could run less efficiently than it should, so additional savings are lost. But the indoor air will be fine. Most modern equip will work great with SPF, it is when you mix old fashion with new and make no allowances that you run into issues.
I learned from Matt Risinger that there is no such thing as too tight. You want it to be tight so you control how the air gets into the house.
That is exactly right.
He does provide great info in his channel. I like the video on the vacuum test for his place.
@Miguel Cairo get lost , please
I had a cabin with closed cell. It had moisture in it. My hvac professional slowed the a/c air flow by 20% and the air was great. 30% humidity. System cycled 1-2 times per hour in the summer. Done deal.
Thanks for sharing
I am at a loss at the views you are getting. If Google really is this company that embraces climate change, they should have you at the top of the list of recommended videos. Come on TH-cam, step up to the plate, and promote this channel for the good of the environment 🤷🏼♂️. Videos like these should be getting millions of views.... I’m Just Saying ⚡️⚡️⚡️
Thank you.
April has been quiet for view for sure.
Great information! Thank you very much. It is a complicated thing to sort out with all the new technology.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video Spray Jones.. very informative!! I do have one question regarding the information you mentioned regarding 2x4 construction walls. We are currently renovating an older bungalow around 1000 square feet which has 2x4. We have decided that we are going to spray form the basement exterior walls with closed cell. We have exposed a couple of exterior walls upstairs which has compressed paper back insulation with ultra thin vapor barrier. With the possibly large difference in R-Value, Would you recommend we exposed all exterior walls and replace with new R-14 or continue close cell spray foam throughout the entire house? The house is also getting a 97% AFUE furnace
You should spray as much closed cell SPF as you can while you have it opened.
Next week I will be doing a video on a wet basement and how it was solved with SPF.
Then a 4 part series is coming out on everything to do with walls and SPF. Part 1 is 2"x 4" so stick around you will like what is said.
Camera tip: Pan and tilt camera slowly to eliminate blur and to keep the viewer from getting motion sick.
Slower camera movements also allow the viewer to process visual data better.
I love the flip phone comment, I've worked with so many people that when they disagree they will say we've been doing it like that for 30 years...still doesn't mean it's right!
Correct. Markers of ignorance.
The whole "too tight" issue depends on your ventilation system.
If you're depending on goofy stuff like whole house fans and open windows? YES. You can make a house too tight.
If you move to a mechanical ventilation system? No. You can't make a house too tight.
Correct. Balance what you build.
I’d love to see your opinion(video) on AeroBarrier...in your opinion is it useless compared to spray foam insulation? Does it work well in combination with spray foam insulation or is this overkill? Does it make other forms of insulation more comparable with spray foam insulation? Would really value your opinion!
The idea of what is needed is 100% correct. SPF HAS to be caulked at the seams to stop air.
How one goes about achieving that is the biggest question.
Thanks for all the great info!! What specific type of caulking is on the studs? Manually troweled on? Thanks again.
We have used all kinds: acoustical, silicone, acrylic, hybrids etc. Always hand applied for detail checking.
What are you putting on your studs before you spray? They look shiny..
Man I wish I had the money to do a complete retrofit and get that optimum exchange of fresh air. Very informative, all systems need to work together fluidly.
Correct.
Keep doing what you are doing well, and rich will come.
@@SprayJones thank you for the good vibes. I've heard of this book "the secret". I'm just staying positive and working on constructive things. And of course watching all your videos lol.
@@SinnisjInsulator I like the glass is half full people a whole lot better than the half empty....
The secret is a tickler, the real source manual for increase is found in the bible. Blessing is God's way.
@@SprayJones ah your a bible man. That's great too, lots of wisdom in there. Let's keep that nose to the grindstone.
@@SinnisjInsulator Sure.
On a new construction home, would you recommend a ductless mini split system? Instead of an hvac?
I don't get into those recommendations. I don't know, I refer to an up to date HVAC contractor.
I suggest the mini-splits for smaller homes but honestly the traditional ducted system is going to give better results in a larger home with many rooms . The newer HVAC systems offered today can be just as efficient as a mini-split . My 1150 sq ft barn style cabin home is spray foam insulated and I use one 24k mini-split though . They are awesome for the smaller houses IMO .
@@rydfree m
Do mini-split systems have fresh air exchanging capability? Without that, you would just be recycling inside air in a well sealed house and not controlling the air freshness.
A ducted mini split is only good for either a smaller home, or for a smaller section of a home. It doesn’t have the static pressure needed to distribute the air across a long run in a larger home.
I’ll preface this by saying I am an amateur at all of this mechanical ventilation stuff but am in the process of getting ready to build and want to do it right the first time. With spray foam closed cell on walls and roof the idea here is you are creating a tight envelope. The use of ridge vents on the roof and vents along the soffit DEFEAT the purpose of using spray foam due to the fact your lose the air tightness in the attic which will diminish the air tightness of the rest of the house …..is this correct? Or does it not make a difference? If this is correct, then you absolutely need a mechanical ventilation system (HR. Or ERV) to counteract the potential negative impacts of having a “tight” home? Is this more or less an accurate understanding of this? I commend you on your knowledge and efforts with your videos. One of the few I have seen that provides education info and presents it in a manner that is easy to understand for those not in the industry. Great work.
Start by watching y 4 part series on non-vented roofs.
A lot of people don't know when you use spray foam that your hvac system will be smaller, almost half the size (depending on how many windows you plan on having of course)
Correct.
That is very interesting to know, especially for cost savings. Thanks for that.
@@SinnisjInsulator I think if most people knew that their hvac system cost would be less by using spray foam it would be a no brainer
@@stcharleshometheater I eventually want to replace my outer insulation with sprayfoam one day. But right now my better half has us replacing all the windows and exterior doors in our home. 😃. It will be a while before we get the funds for the project that will bring our investment back quicker lol.
Videos like this are good for the industry.
Thanks for watching.
I have a new construction and spray foamed house. Live in Midwest Indiana. Closed cell walls and open cell attic on rafters. Operator didn't do too bad but I don't think my headers etc were air sealed. I took trim off in my son's room at seal plate for floor and air was blowing right through the 2×4. I sealed with Great stuff. Is there a way to seal above doors and windows with out ripping out drywall?
Not really.
I just got spray foam installed in my new construction addition and because of that the county requires that the HVAC has a vent that pulls air from the outside. My question is how will we keep things like wildfire smoke and pollen out of the house?
It is called a filtration system. Go check out energywisestructures.com to learn about HVAC
We are retrofitting a 40x16 one story cabin with a block basement in northern Michigan. We have gutted the walls and ceilings. We want to make the 20x16 living toom a cathedral ceiling.
Ive watched dozens of your videos trying to learn how best to insulate and manage moisture.
We plan to use spray closed cell foam. This is a vacation home for all seasons but not fulltime residence. We want to heat with a wood burning stove with electric supplement heat. So no central forced air furnace.
If we spray foam the basement walls and rim joist and spray foam under a basement slab ( currently dirt floor) and spray 2x4 walls and 2x4 rafters in the vaulted ceiling, how should we managed air exchanges and replacement air for wood burner and bathroom and kichen exhaust fans?
Open a window.... Lol.
Honest, you should ask the HVAC people. Since it is a cabin you need to find a simple solution for fresh air make up. Maybe a simple damper system can be installed.
It may be best to consult with Energy Wise Structures in Texas. Pay a little money for their advice..
@@SprayJones thanks. I agree something simple is probably best. I may be over thinking it. There has been so much moisture in this place that I'm starting to obsess over it. Ill talk to an HVAC guy.
mechanical contractors dont exist here . lol the ones that do... wont bother with residential. All of the HVAC I have called out are just after the quick fix. They spit out duct sizes off the top of their head.
Another great video.
"If it blows it goes". Good nuff.
Then learn what you can and help fill the gaps. Opportunity to charge a little more and or make connections to build value.
@@SprayJones
Unfortunately i am not a "business guy".
Could be that this area for some od reason doesn't want to spend money on comfort and efficiency.
I've enjoyed this series a lot.
Currently have an old fishermans cottage gutted back to the stone walls. Roof done, doors and windows done and currently trying to work out the best option for insulating.
I have to say I've been sold on foam but really have to consider what I'll need as far as HVAC goes. Its a tiny cottage and I don't really have the space for a mechanical system.
It seems you really cant win here. Wishing I went new build at the start.
Old school is just to open some window. Works every time.
Try looking into minisplits.
I would definitely use spray foam, I would also use a mini split system like a diy Mr cool, (if you wanted to install it yourself) or you could use a hotel style window ac/heat pack
Wood stove and a window shaker ?
what do you recommend to insulate a 1969 mobile home underneath i inherited from my parents. It's so cold. there's no insulation the last person got evicted and stripped place everything. it's in country on half acre land beautiful by stream in bluffs alot deer and animals out here. my dream come true for location just needs alot TLC now.
Update it to a heated crawl space. Insulate the perimeter, poly cover the soil, heat the space to balance the temps out.
All advice is just suggestions since I have no idea what is actually there...
In new construction how much more does it cost to do all this. Air tighten envelope, condition space, erv/hrv, dehumidifier, from the engineer and drafter plan to construction labor and materials
Thank you for answering my question so quickly on "knowing how to get a quality spray foam installer". I watched every video you did. I am building a 4,200 sq foot home. It will have a conditioned attic, a fresh air system, and the HVAC will be housed in the conditioned attic space with separate dehumidifier system. All designed by an engineer. So, one last question. Structurally I will have wall studs that 2x6 or 2x8, dependent on what the structural engineer may deem worthy. As I have seen in your videos with ROI on closed cell (thanks for backing it with true data) 2/3 inches of closed cell in both wall and in the conditioned attic space and ceiling of the internal living space. Again focusing on air sealing and thermal breaking. If I do that, then is my home considered done? meaning that it is unnecessary to do batts, further vapor barrier etc. I understand that this is all conditional based on proper install, but with 2 inches just wonder if there is anything more. This 2 inch closed foam is excellent and as I am going to have a deep wall cavity it leaves plenty of space for electrical wiring and plumbing. As if in the future I do not have worry about a plumbing leak or an electrical replace and have to dig out the wall. Like I would have to do with open cell foam and shaving. Thanks also for the tip on taping the joists and wall studs. Another great tip to know if you have a good contractor! Thanks again for all you videos. You the MAN!
All windows leak air, the house will never be air tight.
Correct
he says it is supposed to be too tight??? not the way my building is, wood develops mold, tools rust and it smells very musty...
What microphone do you use for your voiceover?
Blue snowball
Mike, you & I would get along g like two peas in a pod. Funny..
I always wondered about this. Thank you!
Happy to help!
I'm building a new home my spray foam contractor wants to use 1.75 lb foam instead of 2lb. what are your thoughts?
I have no dealings with 1.75 so I really can't comment. 2 lb is anywhere from 1.85 - 2.1 usually.
Just compare other factors: thermal value based on thickness, water absorb, etc.
Love Spray Foam insulation and recommend it for insulating most of the home. I believe there needs to be some areas in the home that use other insulation systems to meet the air exchange that a home needs. I have personally seen many, many homes that have air tight spray foam with top of the line Air ventilation systems that have major molding and moisture problems. Modern ventilation systems may have improved the monitoring of the proper air exchange to prevent this problem but the old systems suck.
I do not agree. We don't selected leaky envelopes to deal with interior space.
Think about what you just said.... you want to allow air to move through walls and roofs - in some areas - to provide humidity control??
How does an airplane work?
Everything has cause and effect and when one space is sealed up then controlled air must be brought in to achieve temperature level & humidity levels. That is what mechanical engineering is about.
Appreciate your video. Building a small home and hearing so much conflicting information
There are many many lies out there by people whom allowed ignorance to go to seed.
I love your commentary and the information you share...definitely keeps me liking, subscribing, and coming back!
I am going to make a spray foam order from a manufacturer and would like to know what is most important, to request, when ordering closed cell foam for a 3 inch layer, in a south Texas high humid environment, within a temperature range up to 100 degrees Fahrenheit, but no lower than 40 degrees Fahrenheit.
Thanks for watching.
I do not follow, what is most important to request?
3 inches of closed cell in south Texas is fine, more than fine. What else do you need to know?
@@SprayJones, through watching your media, I learned that I can order the spray foam from the manufacturer, but need to make sure that the foam will work in my climate, not a freezing cold climate, and I’m not sure if that is two different types of foam, or not.
I will be ordering barrels weighing over 200 kgs each, and don’t know what specifications are for equipment I should be purchasing as well.
I’m generally trying to make sure I don’t overlook something a professional would know immediately, that a project manager that doesn’t specialize in this field may overlook.
@@pumah96 So I understand, you are starting to spray foam...like a one time job or you are now a contractor?
The red flag is that no one picks up the phone and just orders foam, you need all the gear and to be orientated, assigned a company rep who will get you pricing, check your gear, provide tech data and support, just to name a few...
@@SprayJones, yes, I am a project manager, I went straight to the manufacturer, have a rep that translates English to understand what I am requesting, I will need to know all required training, equipment, regulation, codes, but the chemical specification requirements is the part that requires someone with experience to most easily discern, where the other components, I can find out, as I have through other industries, through documentation.
@@SprayJones I will be building a facility, am preparing to learn the trade enough in the next year to do this aspect of the build myself because there are several projects that will require this trade in almost every major project.
So I’m planning and preparing to be ahead of the curve.
You are the most knowledgeable person in your field that I’ve seen online, so you have been my best shot to reach my goals, and I am appreciative~
Thanks
Thank you for watching.
Airtight house sounds dangerous
What does V stand for in HVAC? How does an airliner work?
@@SprayJones how many co2 deaths in an old farmhouse
Has anyone done a study on what happens to a home that relies on mechanical ventilation when it is either unoccupied/abandoned or without electricity for an extended period? 🤔
Not that I am aware of officiall
My father in law had his house sprayed by us in 2007, 1920 built home. No HVAC, just his fireplace and in-floor heat from a coal-fired boiler in the middle of the yard. That house has not been lived in until Dec 2018. There are no issues from a mold or condensation issue. The house has a smell to it from always being closed up and all the wood stains inside, smells like and old church and pinesol.
@@SprayJones It's the ONE thing I can't seem to find anywhere that's made a true test on. You see plenty of old houses lay vacant for decades with little structural degradation, granted they're usually uninsulated and drafty as a beer keg... But what about new, high performance homes that are built tight to say, passive standards? If they rely so heavily on HVAC+D for moisture control and ERV/HRV for ventilation in order to be at "longevity" conditions... What happens when the power goes out? 🤔
There's always the catch phrase "built to last" but it assumes constant occupancy and electrification...
I'd consider a home "built to last" if it could survive "on its own" like a castle or a pyramid or something 🤷♂️
Excellent video could do without the sarcasm. My son is a mechanical engineer and they do the calculations you are referring to in all construction projects.
What brand spray foam do you recommend?
Demilec, BASF, Huntsman, NCFI etc.
thanx for checking that out
Fat Crayons!!!!!!😂🤣😂🤣
Thank you for the HVAC information basics you included. A home can be too tight if the HVAC system is not the correct design and install.
Glad it was helpful!
@Spray Jones - I still have concerns with sealing off the wood in homes especially flat roof where there is no ventilation to keep the top chords of ijosts dry to avoid rot.
@@darrellstruth839 Go watch the 4 part series on non vented roofs.
What about a commercial roof low slope with rigid insulation and a membrane? There is no venting in that either.... yet that is done millions of time per year across North America.
@@SprayJones - commercial roof structure are normally within the building envelope thus moisture is controlled by the HVAC, which here in Alberta is usually dry. I will watch that suggested 4 part series. This is quite related to what I do and need to advise customers properly. So far I am impressed with the foam products, but I think I am a little gun shy of them due to the 1970's spray foam scandal's!
@@darrellstruth839 Just keep on learning, there is enough info on this channel to answer this.
You cannot pass water through closed cell foam. So how is a top cord to get wet? From the exterior? Well if it does then the external envelope has failed, not the SPF system.
daddy likey
like your videos
Thank you for watching.
i quit watching a lot of your videos, to much report reading and sounding preachy
Then what are you doing here bitching??
Do you collaborate with the HVAC contractor to make sure the system will work well? Maybe a dumb question.
We direct the owner or builder to do so. We rarely tell them what to do.
@@SprayJones what I figured. Just wondered if hvac doesn’t do their job correctly, would you get the blame? Keep up the good work!
@@Redhawk24 Obviously the system could run less efficiently than it should, so additional savings are lost. But the indoor air will be fine.
Most modern equip will work great with SPF, it is when you mix old fashion with new and make no allowances that you run into issues.
@@SprayJones thanks again, love your info!