You have he best DIY videos! Lighting and your ability to speak without ums and "O.K. Guys" in every sentence makes it very easy to listen and stay engaged in your videos. Because of this, itkeep me coming to your videos and encourages me to do the hobbie. THANKS!!!
Ron, a hint put the rail joiner part way on a short piece of scrap rail ( no ties) then use this piece as a holder to line up and slide the joiner onto the good existing track.
Hi Ron, I'm thinking of adding a curved turnout myself now, thanks for the instructions. My layout is in a large shed and I have an oil filled radiator to keep a moderate temperature but actually made a point of leaving some small gaps in the rails and not soldering those in case we have a heatwave, ha, ha, as I was concerned about the rails swelling and buckling. Where I did make a bigger gap than was intended I did put some solder in it and filed it down smooth and it has no problems. I did it that way as I'm not intending to paint the track. Thanks for the videos, Cheers, Rick
Good, concise video, as always. One suggestion: I built a tool to open up the rail joiners before installing them on the track. To build this tool, create a hardwood handle roughly 1/2 inch in diameter and about 5 inches long. Find a scrap piece of rail about 4 inches long and modify one end of it by filing the flange and rail sides to create a chisel type edge. Drill a tight hole in the end of the handle and glue the rail in with the chisel end exposed. Use this tool to expand each rail joiner before installation. Opening up the rail joiners make them slip on more easily than just using them from the pack. It also lets you do the 'struggle' to expand the rail joiner at some place other than your delicate track work. This tool is especially useful in situations such as the one in this video. I find your videos to be the best composed, and well delivered of all the available model train videos I have viewed. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the kind works. Yes, a tool like that can be VERY handy. I have something similar. I usually don't need it when installing Peco rail roiners on Peco track, but I ALWAYS need it when using any joiners--especially Peco ones--on Atlas track. I didn't need it here, but thanks for describing it for everyone. You will probably see mine in a video sometime on trackwork.
This is another of your quality videos and why you've so quickly developed a large following. I'm sure anyone who builds a layout encounters situations where changes must be made to track. Sometimes it is more than adding a turnout. We should never be afraid to tackle even a major reworking of track if it results in significant improvement for operations.
+Jerry Smith I couldn't agree more. Do what makes the layout operate the way you want. Don't put up with something less than satisfactory when you can fix it.
I am just getting in the model railroading and have been doing lots and lots of research and video watching, I want to say thank you to all the people who put these video's out. A lot of big thank yous, cuz I would have made many, many mistakes from the beginning. 👍
HI I AM VERY NEW TO THIS HOBBY & HAD TO PUT A CURVED TRACK IN LIKE YOURSELF, BUT DONE IT ALL WRONG. SO THIS VIDEO HAS HELPED ME CORRECT WHAT I HAVE DONE WRONG. A GREAT THANKYOU FOR MAKING THIS VIDEO. PETER, CAMBORNE, CORNWALL, UK.
I like the way you filled in the gaps with styrene. I’ve always soldered them and ended up replacing ties if they were there. Then filing the solder is harder than the styrene looked. Thanks for the videos they are very useful.
10:48 fun fact: same thing happens when you're welding actual rails. usually in tight curves like that you would remove rail joiners from one side only, weld that joint, do the same on another joint further away (assuming you have several to weld) but on the opposite side and then come back to the first pair once it's cold. and you would grind them too, except not with a nail file :P that would take some time lol
A cheap "slide knife" with the snap off blades works great also for working under the rail, it has an even thinner profile. Great video, working on curves is always an adventure.
Ron. Great video. I found it easier for me to cut back the ties on both the turnouts and the flex track and later insert replacement ties in the gaps. Also after I cut the rail joiners apart I file the cut clean so they will easily slide under rail gaps for removable sections or before soldering. Look forward to a video about painting and ballasting track. Good reminder to clean the solder joints. Mike
Hey, Mike. When installing new track I remove ties too, but with track that is already glued down this is nearly impossible without running the risk of pulling up a bunch of the existing track in the process. I just can't get a knife blade through the connecting plastic on the ties under the rail without putting too much upward pressure on the rail. I am getting ready to do some painting and ballasting soon, so those videos should not be too far off.
Extremely helpful video. I saw a video earlier today on soldering track in “N” scale and the gentleman used two wet cotton balls too cool the solder joint. One on each side of the joint being soldered. No melted ties. I just redesigned my track plan and added a curved switch. This was extremely helpful.
Thanks for showing us. When installing or cutting flex track, especially on a curve, I always use quite a few push pins on the outside of the curve to prevent the rail from springing out. I also don't like square ends (both rails cut opposite each other). I found this to create a 'hinge point' for the rails to kink that the fish plates and solder can't reliably hold. I believe this is one reason the full size railroads avoid square ends. It doesn't take much to use a #11 blade to remove spikes either side of the flex connection, push on a connector then slide in the new rail. Holds radii great. Did this on a helix to verify my point. Perhaps you could do a video on installing peco switches with motors. Your contribution to the hobby is greatly appreciated.
Wow. I never thought you would reply. Do you use switch machines with your Peco turnouts? Could you show us how you install them on your layout? Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Ron Dabola As of right now I do not use switch machines, but I'm planning to upgrade my mainline switches to machine driven and I will make a video when I do...I always make a video when I do something new.
Nice video, one thing I do when sliding the joiner back along the rail is use a flat bladed jewellers screwdriver. You can use the indentation on the side of the rail as a guide, AND you don't run the risk of putting too much pressure on the joiner and opening it up or crushing it.
Great video, lots of track work in my future I ripped up half my main line and I'm moving it, then I will be doing code 55 in the rail yard and for Spurs, sideings along and staging. with code 55 turnouts. Thanks for sharing.
Real railroads obviously prefer what is simple whenever possible, but it is inaccurate to say curved turnouts are unprototypical. Railroads us them quite a bit when, like us, they are in short supply of real estate. Just Google "prototype curved turnout" and you will see several photos just there. Model railroads use them because we are trying to cram miles of railroad into feet or even inches of bench work--a challenging task at best. Thanks for watching, Zane.
Hi Ron, thanks again for a great video. I want to replace 2 Shinohara curved electro frog turnouts with the same Peco points you installed. I’m now confident in doing the job. Thanks again, and keep em coming. I’ve been in the hobby for 40 years and have built many n scale layouts. But it just goes to show you can teach an old dog new tricks! Cheers
I have a tip for you. I use a little one or two inch piece of spare rail to slide the rail jointer on to it. Then you can place it at the end of the rail you want to slide the rail jointer on to. Ans slide it on.
Hi Ron, Thanks for sharing this useful addition. I need to do a similar "operation" on my layout to connect a D/A track to the main, without interfering with the lead/drill track. The difference is that I'll have to install a crossover, so double work. Definitely this will help me. Thanks a lot. All the best, António
I need to make a similar modification to the thoroughfare track on my yard. I talk about it in my latest video. See time stamp 8:00 on this video. th-cam.com/video/YqkC0U7qjVY/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for making, yet another, great video! Your tip about making sure the rails are slightly longer than it seems they should be, is something I probably wouldn't have realised, until after ruining a new piece of track. I had a plastic train set, when I was a little kid. I've always wanted an electric set, but it's something I've never got around to buying. I really like the idea of N scale, because of the space they'll save. However, I know they're more expensive than larger scale and there are less scenery items available in the same scale. I also have that same model of Dremel. They're the best power tool for any miniature modelling. I have just about every add-on available.
I don't solder turnouts because I will usually melt a tie causing the rail to get out of gauge. I do solder all of my flex track together, however. I don't glue down my turnout either; my track on both sides of the turnout will hold down the turnout. I will paint my cork roadbed underneath of the turnout in order to match the color of the ballast. I also like to not have too much ballast if any near the points of the turnout; I don't want anything to get in the way of the points and the rails especially since all of my turnouts are power routing. I have even had a few times where both tracks on the diverging tracks were powered! So I vacuumed the area around the points and then the power went only to the divergent track I wished to power. I believe there must have been some metal shavings somewhere near the points and rails causing both divergent tracks to be powered. I use Peco code 55 turnouts which usually have sleeper ties at the ends. I remove a tie or two of ties from the track that join the turnout that way I can get a nice level joint between the turnout and the adjoining track. Then I will use balsa wood in order to fill the gap underneath the joints. Since the my wood ties will be lower than the Peco ties I will usually add another piece of wood on top of the first tie.
This is the latest of many of your videos I've watched, and I really like the tips and tricks you demonstrate. I've subscribed, and will probably revisit these as I build my next layout. Not planning on any curved turnouts just yet though.... - Scot
SWEETA!!!! Now by putting the filling the gap,??won't that take away the Clickety-clack sound??? & That's SWEETA, info on how to put a good switch in on a curve, like how you tell about the radius & to match the switch radius,,, Thanks for sharing Ron... Tom B.
Ron, great video and thank you for showing and explaining how you inserted the curve switch. Lot of great tips and information in this video. Saving this one! D. Muse
Awesome video Ron and very informative where I'm abt to build my 1st h.o.scale layout after we get moved into our new home. In selecting track do you use Code 83 or 100 and which brand do you prefer? And of course the majority of what I'll purchase is FLEX TRACK.
Thanks Ron, great tutorial. Thrilled you did this one as I have this to do next on my layout. Looking forward to seeing the development of the passenger area. Cheers :)
I would never be able to fill a gap that large with solder without melting a lot of ties and making a mess of the track gauge. The styrene filler is much easier.
Great tutorial Ron. I know how much work this video took. All that editing! I gave you credit in an upcoming video where I implemented your easement tutorial. Stay tuned. -Mark
Why don't you buy a "right angle" adapter for your Dremel tool? I use one every time I cut track with it, it allows you to cut straight down vertically, instead of holding the tool on an angle! I also use a reinforced cutting wheel, but still use goggles! Getting plastic or rail debris in your eyes can be very bad! Joe Bliss
Hi Ron, thanks for the video. A couple of things: 1) You didn't mention that CA will eat through foam. So as long as your roadbed is cork you are fine but if it is laid directly on a foam base, when you put the CA between the ties, it'll eat that foam. Also, you can get thin CA which is pretty good at wicking between spaces in which case it'll go between the track and the tie. 2) You didn't show how to wire the turnout. I prefer to solder feeder wires to the bottom of my track (including turnouts) before installing. I pick where I'm going to install the feeder wires, mark the roadbed to drill a hole and mark the track for soldering to the bottom, then as the last stage before final install I solder on the feeders, do the final test install and proceed. 3) I've also done turnout replacement using track nippers to cut the track, just make sure, as you say, cut in the right place and leave a little bit extra to file. 4) Finally, I go to the makeup section at a local large drug store and get the filing boards they use for nails. Those come in various grits, down to "polish", have foam in the middle and are just wide enough to do both tracks. I use those to do the last little bit of "sanding" on the top of the rails to get rid of any solder and to make sure the styrene is flush.
Gaps for expansion are an important part of track laying, but I only include them in straight sections, not in curves. The plastic will give you some give, but I wouldn't replace small expansion gaps in straight sections with plastic filled ones.
Excellent and clear demonstration. Easy to follow. Professionally done. Now I am confident to insert a curved turnout on my curved track. Had been postponing doing so for fear of messing it up. Thanks to this video I'm all gung-ho to do this. BTW, What was the trade name of the super glue you used and that of the 'accelerator?
+Carl Boonzaier I have lost count of how many people have said similar things. Glad I could help. The ca I was using is called Extreme Power. It is just a brand that a hobby shop I stopped into recently had on hand. I usually use zap medium viscosity. As for the accelerator, I have a bottle called insta-set. Zap makes zip kicker which is just as good.
The better option IMHO is to fill them with a bit of styrene glued in place then filed to match the shape of the rail. Solder is hard to shape and can cause running issues.
WHERE DID U GET THE TRACK GAGE AT. MY HOBBY TOWN STORE HAS A GAGE BUT CAN'T READ WHERE IT IS FROM. CAN U HELP. NICE TIP WHICH IS ALWAYS GOOD TO WATCH U. WALTERS DOSE NOT HAVE ONE.
Man this video is packed in great information. Its like your in my head. Every time I think of something you make a video on it. You should have pretended you were talking to someone at the end like the news casters do. lol Kinda fit what you were doing along with the music.
+Joe G I am in tour head...lol. People kept complaining about my old rolling credits so thought I'd try this...give them something new to complain about.
+Joe G I am in tour head...lol. People kept complaining about my old rolling credits so thought I'd try this...give them something new to complain about.
Nice tutorial. I have one question. If you are planning to have an under table motor (ie, Peco or Tortoise) of some kind operating that turn-out shouldn't you have drilled the hole before installing the turn-out?
Enjoy your videos, very helpful to a newcomer to the hobby. Do you lay your cork roadbed directly onto the plywood base or do you prefer to lay the road bed on foam? What are the advantages and disadvantages of the two methods?
Will the passenger track continue back toward the next part of the layout, past the station? Could a second track be added for other passenger trains to pass
Hi Ron, could you advise on whether i should use Atlas HO code 83 flex track or code 100. I am building new HO layout. Is Atlas the best or has their quality gone down.? I am confused by some reviews I read and advice on how to lay this track. I don't pla to solder and need some advice. Any suggestions? The local hobby shop where I can get this track says I should use code 100 but I think the code 83 more proto and looks better and probably has same permormance reliability. Thanks.
Ron, I see you are using a insulfrog turnout here. I'm wondering if you could tell me why? I am building a DCC layout, and need to pick up a couple of turnouts and frankly, I'm a bit confused on whether to use insulfrog or electro frog turnouts. I intend to be running my trains slowly through these switches. Thanks.
I started using insulfrogs years ago when I was pretty new to model railroading because they are easy. Electrofrogs with DCC have to be wired to throw with the switch. I could do this now but wasn't confident enough to try it back then and I'm still using many of those same switches. My advice is if you can do the wiring I would use electrofrogs, especially for slow running in N scale. My next layout will definitely be upgraded to electrofrogs.
Are you going to show how you put in the rest of the bed for the side rail and it it looks like you banked the curve how do you account for that on the side rail.
+Kenneth Wallace I'm sure what you are asking in the first question. As for the second, the bank is gentle. The siding will simply include a gentle twist to level not unlike the transition out of superelevation at the end of the curve. It is a slow-speed siding.
Thanks Ron for this video. Just came in time. I also need to modify mine. I’m not sure if it’s going to work yet. I need to add a turn out coming out a tunnel where the track is inclined. This will rejoin the existing spur line for my passenger station. That way, I come back facing forward instead of backing up from the mainline on the other end. On top of this, it’s a Bachmann EZ track. I don’t know yet if I should pull them apart or just cut like you did. Maybe use Atlas turnout instead. Is there any way I can send you photos on an email to see if it’s even possible to make that change? I appreciate the advice I can get before I tackle the job.
Just saw this. Seems "anti prototypical"(don't know if that's correct grammar) for a passenger rail run. are you going to back a train into the platform and then run back out front end forward? Usually they are run throughs so the train can go both directions to and from the station?
Every layout has to make compromises. I think it's up to the owner of the railroad to decide what's important and what will be rhe most fun for them! We aren't all building historical dioramas.
Very nice clean install Ron.. I do have two questions.. (1) when you used the mini driver to hold the rail in place when you soldered..is there a personal preference in using that tool instead of a wooden skewer? I know there is a mixed debate about using a metal heat sink when soldering. And, (2)..the styrene in the gap.. you filled it so it was important to you..my question is..which is worse?...the gap or the scratches on top of the rail due to filing where dirt can collect and cause studders if that section is not really clean. Tom
Hi, Tom. As for the screwdriver, it is just what I have used in the past because I had it around. A skewer would work just fine--anything to push the curved rail into a nice smooth curve while soldering. As for filling the gap, if the gap was pretty small I would have left it. These were a little too large for me to leave. as for the scratches in the rail head, you can burnish them out by "sanding" it with a stainless steel washer. I learned this trick from Ralph Renzetti recently and it works really well. Before that I would work it over with 1500 grit emery paper, but the stainless steel trick works better--no sign of a scratch left behind.
thank you Ron.. I learned a new tip with the Stainless... I have some areas on my current layout where I've filed and now it is always dark even though the surface is clean.. running shorter engines..in that location..always seems to present a dice throw if I will get a stall.. After posting my question about the gap..I thought deeper and wondered if we were filling the gap for performance...due to wheel drop across the gap or appearance. but, you have answered that in your response.. thanks Ron and as always..excellent videos..and info. Tom
+Jerry Smith Those work too. The only advantage to the push pin is the head hits the top of the rail and holds it down into the adhesive IF it is not naturally settling down into it--which can be an issue sometimes in curves.
I have a even simpler question regarding turnouts, as I am planning my layout I am trying to lay a spur that runs parallel to the "main line". I am trying to use sectional track. The problem I'm having is that there does not seem to be a curved piece that I can attach to the diverging part of the turnout that makes the spur parallel. All of the pieces I try either make the spur track drift away from the main, or run into it. Is there a trick to this? Do manufacturers make "turnout correction" pieces for lack of a better term? If not, how do people make spurs that are perfectly parallel, let alone how do they make a full siding where the track rejoins the main further down?
+The Lowmein I haven't used sectional track in years but as I remember I think there are special curved sections made specifically for countering the curve in a turnout.
Yes there are. Usually, they are supplied with the turnout. My guess is that you could find them, but you are going to have to know whether your turnout is a 4,6, etc. It would probably be easier to just use a section of flex-track, maybe cheaper too.
do you do anything to your switches to get power on the turnout side of the switch I having problems getting power to my inter lope I watch one you-tube video which was shown they put jumpers on from outside rail to the next close to it then inside rail to the next one to it, what do you suggest?
I simply install feeders to all three sets of rails leading into the turnout. With Insulfrog turnouts I have no issues with the turnut getting power throughout, assuming all of the track joints are soldered.
Another great show Ron, love your videos.This one was very informative and timely ,as I had to add a turnout (PECO N gauge as yours) after I layed down some track and forgot to add the darn thing.It`s now in and works great ,but still a PITA LOL
Ron, this is a great video, lots of good information. Thanks. Do you use turnout motors to control your turnouts? When would you fit this turnout to use one? Is the turnout likely to "throw" without something to hold it in place? Would it be easier to drill the hole through the roadbed before you installed the turnout? I'd think it'd be easier to drill from the top than trying to come up from the bottom when you can't see exactly where it needs to go. Thanks for your great info.
If using switch motors, yes you would want to drill the hole before installing the turnout. I do not use switch motors on this layout. I hand throw all of my turnouts. The stay in place because they are Peco turnouts so the switch points are held in place with springs. If using turnout motors with these turnouts one would need to remove the spring.
+bnsf6951 I can't remember now. Usually if I delete a reply its because I asked a question mid video thatbyou answered later, but I honestly don't even remember what the comment was now.
![NISAMANEE - TADA (ท้าดา) [ OFFICIAL MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hcQHEPMmJpU/mqdefault.jpg)
You have he best DIY videos! Lighting and your ability to speak without ums and "O.K. Guys" in every sentence makes it very easy to listen and stay engaged in your videos. Because of this, itkeep me coming to your videos and encourages me to do the hobbie. THANKS!!!
+Orangehogger 66 Thank you. Thanks for watching.
Ron, a hint put the rail joiner part way on a short piece of scrap rail ( no ties) then use this piece as a holder to line up and slide the joiner onto the good existing track.
Hi Ron, I'm thinking of adding a curved turnout myself now, thanks for the instructions. My layout is in a large shed and I have an oil filled radiator to keep a moderate temperature but actually made a point of leaving some small gaps in the rails and not soldering those in case we have a heatwave, ha, ha, as I was concerned about the rails swelling and buckling. Where I did make a bigger gap than was intended I did put some solder in it and filed it down smooth and it has no problems. I did it that way as I'm not intending to paint the track. Thanks for the videos, Cheers, Rick
Good, concise video, as always. One suggestion: I built a tool to open up the rail joiners before installing them on the track. To build this tool, create a hardwood handle roughly 1/2 inch in diameter and about 5 inches long. Find a scrap piece of rail about 4 inches long and modify one end of it by filing the flange and rail sides to create a chisel type edge. Drill a tight hole in the end of the handle and glue the rail in with the chisel end exposed. Use this tool to expand each rail joiner before installation. Opening up the rail joiners make them slip on more easily than just using them from the pack. It also lets you do the 'struggle' to expand the rail joiner at some place other than your delicate track work. This tool is especially useful in situations such as the one in this video. I find your videos to be the best composed, and well delivered of all the available model train videos I have viewed. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the kind works. Yes, a tool like that can be VERY handy. I have something similar. I usually don't need it when installing Peco rail roiners on Peco track, but I ALWAYS need it when using any joiners--especially Peco ones--on Atlas track. I didn't need it here, but thanks for describing it for everyone. You will probably see mine in a video sometime on trackwork.
This is another of your quality videos and why you've so quickly developed a large following. I'm sure anyone who builds a layout encounters situations where changes must be made to track. Sometimes it is more than adding a turnout. We should never be afraid to tackle even a major reworking of track if it results in significant improvement for operations.
+Jerry Smith I couldn't agree more. Do what makes the layout operate the way you want. Don't put up with something less than satisfactory when you can fix it.
I am just getting in the model railroading and have been doing lots and lots of research and video watching, I want to say thank you to all the people who put these video's out. A lot of big thank yous, cuz I would have made many, many mistakes from the beginning. 👍
HI I AM VERY NEW TO THIS HOBBY & HAD TO PUT A CURVED TRACK IN LIKE YOURSELF, BUT DONE IT ALL WRONG. SO THIS VIDEO HAS HELPED ME CORRECT WHAT I HAVE DONE WRONG. A GREAT THANKYOU FOR MAKING THIS VIDEO. PETER, CAMBORNE, CORNWALL, UK.
+Peter Faulkner I'm so glad I could help.
I like the way you filled in the gaps with styrene. I’ve always soldered them and ended up replacing ties if they were there. Then filing the solder is harder than the styrene looked. Thanks for the videos they are very useful.
Thanks.
10:48 fun fact: same thing happens when you're welding actual rails. usually in tight curves like that you would remove rail joiners from one side only, weld that joint, do the same on another joint further away (assuming you have several to weld) but on the opposite side and then come back to the first pair once it's cold. and you would grind them too, except not with a nail file :P that would take some time lol
That is interesting. Thanks for sharing.
I'm really glad you found your calling in life. These tips are helpful. Thank you.
A cheap "slide knife" with the snap off blades works great also for working under the rail, it has an even thinner profile. Great video, working on curves is always an adventure.
+Raquette Lake I have one of those. 👍
Ron. Great video. I found it easier for me to cut back the ties on both the turnouts and the flex track and later insert replacement ties in the gaps. Also after I cut the rail joiners apart I file the cut clean so they will easily slide under rail gaps for removable sections or before soldering. Look forward to a video about painting and ballasting track. Good reminder to clean the solder joints. Mike
Hey, Mike. When installing new track I remove ties too, but with track that is already glued down this is nearly impossible without running the risk of pulling up a bunch of the existing track in the process. I just can't get a knife blade through the connecting plastic on the ties under the rail without putting too much upward pressure on the rail.
I am getting ready to do some painting and ballasting soon, so those videos should not be too far off.
Extremely helpful video. I saw a video earlier today on soldering track in “N” scale and the gentleman used two wet cotton balls too cool the solder joint. One on each side of the joint being soldered. No melted ties. I just redesigned my track plan and added a curved switch. This was extremely helpful.
Thanks for showing us. When installing or cutting flex track, especially on a curve, I always use quite a few push pins on the outside of the curve to prevent the rail from springing out. I also don't like square ends (both rails cut opposite each other). I found this to create a 'hinge point' for the rails to kink that the fish plates and solder can't reliably hold. I believe this is one reason the full size railroads avoid square ends. It doesn't take much to use a #11 blade to remove spikes either side of the flex connection, push on a connector then slide in the new rail. Holds radii great. Did this on a helix to verify my point. Perhaps you could do a video on installing peco switches with motors. Your contribution to the hobby is greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Ron. I do what you describe on most curves, but with a switch installation that is difficult as the ends of the switch are "square" ends.
Wow. I never thought you would reply. Do you use switch machines with your Peco turnouts? Could you show us how you install them on your layout? Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Ron Dabola As of right now I do not use switch machines, but I'm planning to upgrade my mainline switches to machine driven and I will make a video when I do...I always make a video when I do something new.
One of my new favorite channels. Great tutorials and superb modeling skills.
+Chuck Geiger Thanks Chuck.
Nice video, one thing I do when sliding the joiner back along the rail is use a flat bladed jewellers screwdriver. You can use the indentation on the side of the rail as a guide, AND you don't run the risk of putting too much pressure on the joiner and opening it up or crushing it.
Good tip. Thanks, Michael.
Great tutorial thanks, I am a newbie and have learnt a great deal. Very well explained and great video work.
This video saved my layout
Nice video Ron. Excellent information and explained very well.
+Gary Schmitt Thanks.
Hey Ron, using the styrene to fill the gaps is a good idea, thanks for sharing
If the gaps were very small I would have left them--good "clickety-clack" effects--but these were just a little too bit to leave.
Thank you so much I have been trying to figure out how to do this thanks man appreciated very much
Great video, lots of track work in my future I ripped up half my main line and I'm moving it, then I will be doing code 55 in the rail yard and for Spurs, sideings along and staging. with code 55 turnouts. Thanks for sharing.
Real railroads obviously prefer what is simple whenever possible, but it is inaccurate to say curved turnouts are unprototypical. Railroads us them quite a bit when, like us, they are in short supply of real estate. Just Google "prototype curved turnout" and you will see several photos just there. Model railroads use them because we are trying to cram miles of railroad into feet or even inches of bench work--a challenging task at best. Thanks for watching, Zane.
Ron's Trains N Things you are correct, thanks we learn something new every day.
Zane's Trains N Things
Hi Ron, thanks again for a great video. I want to replace 2 Shinohara curved electro frog turnouts with the same Peco points you installed. I’m now confident in doing the job. Thanks again, and keep em coming. I’ve been in the hobby for 40 years and have built many n scale layouts. But it just goes to show you can teach an old dog new tricks! Cheers
Great How to Ron and explained very well as well as very visual.
Thanks , Mike
Mike the new poster child for track plan modifications or just rip it all out and start over...
Thanks, Mike.
Yes, that is true. 👍
I do my best.
Thanks , Mike
I have a tip for you. I use a little one or two inch piece of spare rail to slide the rail jointer on to it. Then you can place it at the end of the rail you want to slide the rail jointer on to. Ans slide it on.
Good tip. Thanks.
Thanks for sharing... I've learned a few things.
Thanks for watching.
Hi Ron, Thanks for sharing this useful addition. I need to do a similar "operation" on my layout to connect a D/A track to the main, without interfering with the lead/drill track. The difference is that I'll have to install a crossover, so double work. Definitely this will help me.
Thanks a lot.
All the best,
António
I need to make a similar modification to the thoroughfare track on my yard. I talk about it in my latest video. See time stamp 8:00 on this video. th-cam.com/video/YqkC0U7qjVY/w-d-xo.html
Love your videos
another great how to video Ron keep up the good work .How about a video of elevating track for bridge or talk about the different grades 1% 2% etc
Good ideas. I will see what I can do.
Excellent presentation'..Thank you for the information'..
+Quarter Gauger Thanks.
Thanks for making, yet another, great video! Your tip about making sure the rails are slightly longer than it seems they should be, is something I probably wouldn't have realised, until after ruining a new piece of track. I had a plastic train set, when I was a little kid. I've always wanted an electric set, but it's something I've never got around to buying. I really like the idea of N scale, because of the space they'll save. However, I know they're more expensive than larger scale and there are less scenery items available in the same scale.
I also have that same model of Dremel. They're the best power tool for any miniature modelling. I have just about every add-on available.
I made changes ever 15 min once I had the 2 main lines in but now I have the flyover with 3 more tracks I think I know how I want it
+CSX2586 Rail Rider Raby I know that feeling.
I don't solder turnouts because I will usually melt a tie causing the rail to get out of gauge. I do solder all of my flex track together, however. I don't glue down my turnout either; my track on both sides of the turnout will hold down the turnout. I will paint my cork roadbed underneath of the turnout in order to match the color of the ballast. I also like to not have too much ballast if any near the points of the turnout; I don't want anything to get in the way of the points and the rails especially since all of my turnouts are power routing. I have even had a few times where both tracks on the diverging tracks were powered! So I vacuumed the area around the points and then the power went only to the divergent track I wished to power. I believe there must have been some metal shavings somewhere near the points and rails causing both divergent tracks to be powered. I use Peco code 55 turnouts which usually have sleeper ties at the ends. I remove a tie or two of ties from the track that join the turnout that way I can get a nice level joint between the turnout and the adjoining track. Then I will use balsa wood in order to fill the gap underneath the joints. Since the my wood ties will be lower than the Peco ties I will usually add another piece of wood on top of the first tie.
Thanks for sharing your process.
This is the latest of many of your videos I've watched, and I really like the tips and tricks you demonstrate. I've subscribed, and will probably revisit these as I build my next layout. Not planning on any curved turnouts just yet though.... - Scot
Welcome and thanks for watching. I didn't plan any either, but sometimes life happens. Lol.
SWEETA!!!! Now by putting the filling the gap,??won't that take away the Clickety-clack sound??? & That's SWEETA, info on how to put a good switch in on a curve, like how you tell about the radius & to match the switch radius,,, Thanks for sharing Ron... Tom B.
Ron, great video and thank you for showing and explaining how you inserted the curve switch. Lot of great tips and information in this video. Saving this one!
D. Muse
+David Muse Thanks for watching.
Great tip, Ron!
+ATSF Venta Spur Nscaler Thanks
Great Job Ron..thanks for the helpful video and thanks for sharing and keep up the great work.. Lance
+CHESAPEAKE & OHIO JUNCTION Thanks Lance.
Awesome video Ron and very informative where I'm abt to build my 1st h.o.scale layout after we get moved into our new home. In selecting track do you use Code 83 or 100 and which brand do you prefer? And of course the majority of what I'll purchase is FLEX TRACK.
Thanks Ron, great tutorial. Thrilled you did this one as I have this to do next on my layout. Looking forward to seeing the development of the passenger area. Cheers :)
+James Marris Thanks for watching. 👍
I'm proud of myself for recognizing those gaps before you mentioned them 🙂
Fixing it with styrene was interesting... would never have occurred to me.
Picked that trick up somewhere years ago. I'm embarrassed to say how many times I've had to use it.
Why didnt you wait for the CA to cure completely before you trimmed the styrene?
Nice video, but wondered if soldering the gap would have been an option, certainly have to be careful with the heat and filing.
I would never be able to fill a gap that large with solder without melting a lot of ties and making a mess of the track gauge. The styrene filler is much easier.
Thanks for sharing, you make it look easy, thanks....
I have a few gaps to fill after watching this video :) Great idea!
Great how-to Ron!!
Thank you for your comment and thanks for watching.
Great tutorial Ron. I know how much work this video took. All that editing! I gave you credit in an upcoming video where I implemented your easement tutorial. Stay tuned. -Mark
+M&M Rails Awesome. Glad you were able to use the info.
Why don't you buy a "right angle" adapter for your Dremel tool? I use one every time I cut track with it, it allows you to cut straight down vertically, instead of holding the tool on an angle! I also use a reinforced cutting wheel, but still use goggles! Getting plastic or rail debris in your eyes can be very bad!
Joe Bliss
When putting in the turnout, you did not provide a hole for an under table slow motion switch. How did you provide for that later?
Great video, learned a lot!
Thank you for your comment and thanks for watching.
Hi Ron, thanks for the video. A couple of things:
1) You didn't mention that CA will eat through foam. So as long as your roadbed is cork you are fine but if it is laid directly on a foam base, when you put the CA between the ties, it'll eat that foam. Also, you can get thin CA which is pretty good at wicking between spaces in which case it'll go between the track and the tie.
2) You didn't show how to wire the turnout. I prefer to solder feeder wires to the bottom of my track (including turnouts) before installing. I pick where I'm going to install the feeder wires, mark the roadbed to drill a hole and mark the track for soldering to the bottom, then as the last stage before final install I solder on the feeders, do the final test install and proceed.
3) I've also done turnout replacement using track nippers to cut the track, just make sure, as you say, cut in the right place and leave a little bit extra to file.
4) Finally, I go to the makeup section at a local large drug store and get the filing boards they use for nails. Those come in various grits, down to "polish", have foam in the middle and are just wide enough to do both tracks. I use those to do the last little bit of "sanding" on the top of the rails to get rid of any solder and to make sure the styrene is flush.
Maybe you should have your own TH-cam channel. I think Ron is doing just fine mr criticism.
Been there done that, went to an auto parts store and got a flat points file, works to get under the track.
That's a good tip. Thanks. I'll check that out.
Nice job.
I was always told you want a small gap for expansion or does the plastic give enough
Gaps for expansion are an important part of track laying, but I only include them in straight sections, not in curves. The plastic will give you some give, but I wouldn't replace small expansion gaps in straight sections with plastic filled ones.
Excellent and clear demonstration. Easy to follow. Professionally done. Now I am confident to insert a curved turnout on my curved track. Had been postponing doing so for fear of messing it up. Thanks to this video I'm all gung-ho to do this.
BTW, What was the trade name of the super glue you used and that of the 'accelerator?
+Carl Boonzaier I have lost count of how many people have said similar things. Glad I could help. The ca I was using is called Extreme Power. It is just a brand that a hobby shop I stopped into recently had on hand. I usually use zap medium viscosity. As for the accelerator, I have a bottle called insta-set. Zap makes zip kicker which is just as good.
Thanks for that info on Ca and Accelerator. Do you add the accelerator to the Extreme Power CA? I'm ignorant of some types of glues. Many thanks.
As far as I know the accelerator should work on any CA.
Most helpful and well videoed.
Can those small gaps in the track be filled with solder? I’m new to this; just curious about options.
The better option IMHO is to fill them with a bit of styrene glued in place then filed to match the shape of the rail. Solder is hard to shape and can cause running issues.
WHERE DID U GET THE TRACK GAGE AT. MY HOBBY TOWN STORE HAS A GAGE BUT CAN'T READ WHERE IT IS FROM. CAN U HELP. NICE TIP WHICH IS ALWAYS GOOD TO WATCH U. WALTERS DOSE NOT HAVE ONE.
Walthers does carry them. Search Walthers site for NMRA standards gauge.
Very useful advice not seen elsewhere - thanks!
Thanks for watching.
Great video Ron, Thanks for sharing-Ed
The beauty of using a phono plug you get a dependable electrical connection and you can pull the bridge out of the Pit
Thanks for a very helpful video, Ron. I was wondering if in your opinion epoxy gluewould work where you used the styrene inserts? Thanks again. : )
+Ernie Parsons It probably would work great, but is a lot of trouble to work with for such a small amount.
Man this video is packed in great information. Its like your in my head. Every time I think of something you make a video on it.
You should have pretended you were talking to someone at the end like the news casters do. lol Kinda fit what you were doing along with the music.
+Joe G I am in tour head...lol. People kept complaining about my old rolling credits so thought I'd try this...give them something new to complain about.
+Joe G I am in tour head...lol. People kept complaining about my old rolling credits so thought I'd try this...give them something new to complain about.
Nice tutorial. I have one question. If you are planning to have an under table motor (ie, Peco or Tortoise) of some kind operating that turn-out shouldn't you have drilled the hole before installing the turn-out?
Yes. It is always easier to do it that way. Although you could do it opposite, it will be difficult.
Enjoy your videos, very helpful to a newcomer to the hobby. Do you lay your cork roadbed directly onto the plywood base or do you prefer to lay the road bed on foam? What are the advantages and disadvantages of the two methods?
Will the passenger track continue back toward the next part of the layout, past the station? Could a second track be added for other passenger trains to pass
This passenger track will simply be a single stub-ended track that serves the passenger platform at the station.
Hi Ron, could you advise on whether i should use Atlas HO code 83 flex track or code 100. I am building new HO layout. Is Atlas the best or has their quality gone down.? I am confused by some reviews I read and advice on how to lay this track. I don't pla to solder and need some advice. Any suggestions? The local hobby shop where I can get this track says I should use code 100 but I think the code 83 more proto and looks better and probably has same permormance reliability. Thanks.
Great video, I learned a lot from it. My one question is will this turnout be manually controlled?
+Larry Bergeron Yes, all my turnouts are manual at this point.
Thanks , well done, appreciate it
Ron, I see you are using a insulfrog turnout here. I'm wondering if you could tell me why? I am building a DCC layout, and need to pick up a couple of turnouts and frankly, I'm a bit confused on whether to use insulfrog or electro frog turnouts. I intend to be running my trains slowly through these switches. Thanks.
I started using insulfrogs years ago when I was pretty new to model railroading because they are easy. Electrofrogs with DCC have to be wired to throw with the switch. I could do this now but wasn't confident enough to try it back then and I'm still using many of those same switches. My advice is if you can do the wiring I would use electrofrogs, especially for slow running in N scale. My next layout will definitely be upgraded to electrofrogs.
Im curious. Do you lay out the complete main line then add from there or decide in your minds eye what you want the layout to look like?
I try to plan out the total track arrangement in advance as much as possible, then make minor tweaks and adjustments as I build.
Are you going to show how you put in the rest of the bed for the side rail and it it looks like you banked the curve how do you account for that on the side rail.
+Kenneth Wallace I'm sure what you are asking in the first question. As for the second, the bank is gentle. The siding will simply include a gentle twist to level not unlike the transition out of superelevation at the end of the curve. It is a slow-speed siding.
Thanks Ron for this video. Just came in time. I also need to modify mine. I’m not sure if it’s going to work yet. I need to add a turn out coming out a tunnel where the track is inclined. This will rejoin the existing spur line for my passenger station. That way, I come back facing forward instead of backing up from the mainline on the other end. On top of this, it’s a Bachmann EZ track. I don’t know yet if I should pull them apart or just cut like you did. Maybe use Atlas turnout instead. Is there any way I can send you photos on an email to see if it’s even possible to make that change? I appreciate the advice I can get before I tackle the job.
Sure. You can email me at ronstrainsnthings@gmail.com
Email sent. Thanks Ron.
Splicing in turnouts/track is not the easiest job but looks like Peco track helps a little. Nice video!
+KRPmodels It is always a challenge, but can be done with patience and care.
Do you have DVD's for us to be able review what we see on TH-cam?
The video is available on TH-cam. I guess I don't understand the question.
Just saw this. Seems "anti prototypical"(don't know if that's correct grammar) for a passenger rail run. are you going to back a train into the platform and then run back out front end forward? Usually they are run throughs so the train can go both directions to and from the station?
Every layout has to make compromises. I think it's up to the owner of the railroad to decide what's important and what will be rhe most fun for them! We aren't all building historical dioramas.
Very nice clean install Ron.. I do have two questions.. (1) when you used the mini driver to hold the rail in place when you soldered..is there a personal preference in using that tool instead of a wooden skewer? I know there is a mixed debate about using a metal heat sink when soldering. And, (2)..the styrene in the gap.. you filled it so it was important to you..my question is..which is worse?...the gap or the scratches on top of the rail due to filing where dirt can collect and cause studders if that section is not really clean. Tom
Hi, Tom. As for the screwdriver, it is just what I have used in the past because I had it around. A skewer would work just fine--anything to push the curved rail into a nice smooth curve while soldering. As for filling the gap, if the gap was pretty small I would have left it. These were a little too large for me to leave. as for the scratches in the rail head, you can burnish them out by "sanding" it with a stainless steel washer. I learned this trick from Ralph Renzetti recently and it works really well. Before that I would work it over with 1500 grit emery paper, but the stainless steel trick works better--no sign of a scratch left behind.
thank you Ron.. I learned a new tip with the Stainless... I have some areas on my current layout where I've filed and now it is always dark even though the surface is clean.. running shorter engines..in that location..always seems to present a dice throw if I will get a stall.. After posting my question about the gap..I thought deeper and wondered if we were filling the gap for performance...due to wheel drop across the gap or appearance. but, you have answered that in your response.. thanks Ron and as always..excellent videos..and info. Tom
To temporarily hold track in place I use same T pins I use tacking Woodland Scenics' foam risers in place before gluing them down.
+Overland Transportation System Thanks Tom.
+Jerry Smith Those work too. The only advantage to the push pin is the head hits the top of the rail and holds it down into the adhesive IF it is not naturally settling down into it--which can be an issue sometimes in curves.
Good stuff - I also watch your video´s, have been for years. Very informative. good work. MM93
+MM93 Thanks man.
I have a even simpler question regarding turnouts, as I am planning my layout I am trying to lay a spur that runs parallel to the "main line". I am trying to use sectional track. The problem I'm having is that there does not seem to be a curved piece that I can attach to the diverging part of the turnout that makes the spur parallel.
All of the pieces I try either make the spur track drift away from the main, or run into it. Is there a trick to this? Do manufacturers make "turnout correction" pieces for lack of a better term? If not, how do people make spurs that are perfectly parallel, let alone how do they make a full siding where the track rejoins the main further down?
+The Lowmein I haven't used sectional track in years but as I remember I think there are special curved sections made specifically for countering the curve in a turnout.
Yes there are. Usually, they are supplied with the turnout. My guess is that you could find them, but you are going to have to know whether your turnout is a 4,6, etc. It would probably be easier to just use a section of flex-track, maybe cheaper too.
Yes, that is probably true.
do you do anything to your switches to get power on the turnout side of the switch I having problems getting power to my inter lope I watch one you-tube video which was shown they put jumpers on from outside rail to the next close to it then inside rail to the next one to it, what do you suggest?
I simply install feeders to all three sets of rails leading into the turnout. With Insulfrog turnouts I have no issues with the turnut getting power throughout, assuming all of the track joints are soldered.
where do you get your rail
Mostly I order from Walthers.com
Another great show Ron, love your videos.This one was very informative and timely ,as I had to add a turnout (PECO N gauge as yours) after I layed down some track and forgot to add the darn thing.It`s now in and works great ,but still a PITA LOL
+paul turenne I've lost count of how many people have said something similar. Gkad to help. Good luck.
Ron, this is a great video, lots of good information. Thanks. Do you use turnout motors to control your turnouts? When would you fit this turnout to use one? Is the turnout likely to "throw" without something to hold it in place? Would it be easier to drill the hole through the roadbed before you installed the turnout? I'd think it'd be easier to drill from the top than trying to come up from the bottom when you can't see exactly where it needs to go. Thanks for your great info.
If using switch motors, yes you would want to drill the hole before installing the turnout. I do not use switch motors on this layout. I hand throw all of my turnouts. The stay in place because they are Peco turnouts so the switch points are held in place with springs. If using turnout motors with these turnouts one would need to remove the spring.
Nice video but, unless you are using a hand throw , you forgot to drill a hole for the Tortoise switch machine.
On this layout at this time everything is hand thrown.
I was doing some track work the other day and ended up pushin a track connector into the end of my finger
+CSX2586 Rail Rider Raby Ouch. I've done that. NOT fun.
I have rails for a wind-up train but no
Why aren't you using a short piece of curved track to help the passenger train exit the main line?
I assume you mean a short curve beyond the turnouot. I probably will do just that. That track has yet to be layed.
good job Ron... 2 thumbs up.. curious as to why you deleted you reply from .my mail call vid... vinny
+bnsf6951 I can't remember now. Usually if I delete a reply its because I asked a question mid video thatbyou answered later, but I honestly don't even remember what the comment was now.
Great video thanks for sharing....
Fan
Yep without a sharpie we're done here.
yes but that's to easy and his video would only be few minutes long instead of a long drawn out one
I have no idea to what you are refering here.