I came across your video series only by TH-cam recommendations and have watched the whole thing in one sitting! Gearboxes are a bit of a dark art for me so it was fascinating to watch. Your explanations were very good and clear and I think I understand the workings a lot better now! I’ve subscribed so I’ll look forward to seeing the next in the series.
Thanks Alan, I have a venom which is a right PITA to start, the previous owner told me it should be set up to slip slightly which then means you can't kick it properly!, the clutch adjustment will hopefully make it a more useable beast, thanks for your time!
Understood, allowing for correct adjustment, the setting up of the crank position, BEFORE that kick to start the engine is essential. 1 find compression and stop 2 lift the exhaust valve and slowly push the kick started down from TDC to BDC, so the crank stops at kick start BDC. 3 release the decompression, and raise the kick starter to TDC 4 kick hard to turn the crank and get the magneto to spark, having flooded the carb if required, with minimum throttle. That usually works for me, however, cold 50 weight engine oil just soaks up all the energy and that's why I made the electric roller starter for when it is very cold.
@@alanglen5902 I think I have the correct preamble but as I say there is a possibility the clutch is slipping meaning I don't get the necessary downforce. I shall try your method of clutch adjustment when I come back from Holiday!
Thanks for your videos Alan. Unfortunately a majority of Velo owners are elderly and not tech savvy. I appreciate you have the combination of Velo experience and the tech side of things...plus the willingness to do it! Well done😎. I also like the way you modify your Velo to suit yourself too (500 conversion to Viper, Rearsets, modern BTH) as observed , I’m sure there is more. Well done, Alan. ( modified Venom 😬)
Thanks for the e mail. In fact the original drive side casing had burst and been badly repaired. I asked Dodkin if he could put a top hat repair in it. He offered me a casing instead with a Viper number on it. The rest of the engine is MSS original but has a Viper drive side casing. Eventually I decided to increase the compression so I mounted the crank casing on my Myford (very carefully) and with a fly cutter, I managed to take off enough material off the crank case mouth, to get a compression ratio of 8.86 to 1. I probably have a photo of that …certainly before GoPro cameras. Thanks
Fabulous video - At last I know a little about the fabled Velocette clutch - I thought it was going to remain a mystery to me for life - beautifully explained, great stuff . . . . . Amusingly, I tuned into this video courtesy of Led Zeppelins Jimmy Page !! - he was demonstrating some guitar riffs and when he had finished, up popped your video !! . . . Perhaps the legendary Rock God "Axeman" is also a Velo fan looking for tips ? . . .Good on him . . . Lol
Excellent series Alan. I well remember how you patiently explained your arrangements to me for the rear sets in Drumcondra when I was struggling to set up my own Viper Clubman c. 1983. Cheers, Gerry Clarke
Wow...what a wonderfully succinct and comprehensive tutorial on the wonder of the universe, the Velocette clutch! I hope to acquire my first Velocette shortly and will need these amazing secrets. I have heard the Velocettes do not like to be held with the clutch lever pulled in for longer periods at traffic lights etc because of risk of overheating the clutch. Any truth to that?
The clutch has a limited lift, see early videos on building the 5 speed gear box...... With the standard springs and flat clutch plates and correct adjustment, I found no problem with clutch drag or over heating at traffic lights. However... I was getting clutch creep at full torque, so I installed a new spring carrier ring with 4 extra clutch springs. ( Thruxton spec.) NO MORE clutch slip / creep at full throttle BUT I now have to manage the gearbox so I am in neutral as I come to a halt at traffic lights etc. I believe that the extra clutch spring load distorts the outer plate when it is lifted, and some drag is evident at times. It's easy to live with and just part of the intimate relationship and understanding which an old machine like a Velocette encourages and makes ownership all the more enjoyable. Have fun. Alan
i fited a norton comando clutch on a panther 650 worked good and light one finger belt drive i like velos had a mss 500 in the 60s another one i remember a conversation with friends on norton bsa etc handling i said you’ve left out the best silence i said velo
Not such an easy job on a Velocette. The entire design is based on having the gearbox sprocket outside of the clutch, in contrast to “conventional” British bike clutches.
Not such an easy job on a Velocette. The entire design is based on having the gearbox sprocket outside of the clutch, in contrast to “conventional” British bike clutches.
Yes indeed, a key process measurable, as far as time is concerned. Also I believe my old workshop jacket has become more grotty and oily. Not sure I dare put it in the washing machine now, for fear of it polluting the inside of the machine and screwing up my clean clothes. Thanks
The Velocette clutch, an elegant and simple device which is without doubt the very best clutch for a motor cycle, but for some reason is considered a complicated device? It is the lightest clutch I have ever used, yet properly adjusted does not slip, I think "modern man" used to electric starters and computer controlled things appears to be frightened by it, purely because he cannot be bothered to do any research . I like your pre load tool, no doubt essential with the new longer springs. I see you have a Viper crankcase, is that a replacement ? Many thanks for posting this video! Chris B.
Thanks. When I got the bike in 1980, approx, it was a derelict pile of junk. The engine was in bits, and the drive side crank casing had had a very ugly weld applied. The main bearing had been badly shimmed up and the casting had burst. The repair was bad but the large crack was worse. Mr Geoff Dodkin offered me a used casing. It was a sensible option. I had to machine the cylinder deck levels on both casings to get them to be level. I also raised the compression. I did go mad on this as I knew the 5 star / 4 star petrol was being phased out. The compression is now 8.86 to 1. Sadly the Velocette is an elitist motorcycle in that so many people who are passionate motorcyclists now, have no idea about basic engineering and what looks good, in functional terms. I have learned a lot from this old bike over many decades and it has been fun.
@@alanglen5902 It is good, and sensible that you used the replacement half of Viper crankcase, were both halves not available? Elitist, I had not thought of the implications of that, it is the same with my Vincent, I suppose those with the money to buy such things are not always blessed with mechanical expertise, that is very sad, the same problem also effects the Morgan, at least we can keep the flag flying for these wonderful machines! Chris B.
I finally have my '54 MSS in my possession. Had difficulty trying to get full clutch release despite doing the "Drill" procedure as detailed in the workshop book. Took it all apart (it has the KTT belt drive setup). Found the previous owner has fit the shorter 7/8" springs for the 7-plate clutches, not the 1-1/8" springs as per parts book for this 9-plate clutch bike. I have correct springs on order, but would these short ones account for the problems it was having? Other problems found were some evidence of scoring/gouging on the thrust roller bearing cage and the inner primary casing has been bonded to the gearbox using some type of sealant, without the usually cork gasket fitted. I have not been able to remove it yet. Any thoughts on how best to remove without bending the cover....some kind of solvent etc? The adhesive looks a like a super strong flexible sealant...maybe a polyurethane type.
I found that with FLAT plates, the clutch drag you refer to was not an issue. However, when I last rebuilt the clutch and later added a "thruxton" spring carrier with 4 extra springs, there was a tendency to drag with cold oil. This was to stop clutch creep / slip in top gear. I have checked the leverage ratio on the handlebar lever. Some levers have a pivot close to the nipple which reduces clutch lift. Also I filed the end of the alloy dog leg lever so as to open out a bit further and thereby give me more movement on the clutch cable nipple before the other end hits the handlebar.......perhaps file the ball end as well to maximise cable movement?? I tend to glue / seal the inner chain case to the Cork gasket and then to the inner gearbox surface. I do this once I have adjusted the gearbox to get correct primary chain tension. This eliminates the chance of oil leaking here. Chain adjustment is hardly required when you have oil in the chain case continuously. If required, I buy and fit a new primary chain. I have replaced the original band type seal chain casings. I now use casings clamped with a set of small screws. In my experience, it is possible to get the chain case oil tight. I use a felt seal ring in the outer case. As for releasing your inner chain case, petrol / brake cleaner and gentle leverage is all you can do. Scoring / damage to the thrust bearing......I assume you use oil in the chain case? If you run it dry, due to the belt??? How will the roller bearing be lubricated / not fail prematurely?? If this has overheated it might be worth checking the 3 pins condition to make sure they are all the same length and that the spherical bearing surface on the inner race is also lubricated and slips on the clutch arm so the clutch lifts nicely. That's all I can think of. Alan
@@alanglen5902 THx. The casing is also the bolt up later type. According to the guy that makes the belt drive kits, there is sufficient oil getting past the gear box oil "thrower" shims to keep the thrust bearing happy. When I took it apart there was evidence of quite reasonable amount of oil present not only on the thrust bearing but all around the inside of the case. The bearing cage damage I found looked more like from a misaligned roller than friction heat....a rectangular notch pressed into the cage metal fit a roller almost exactly. New bearing assembly on order just to be sure.
The colour was basic bronze. I made the rear sets in 1983 approx and just got the parts anodised. I hoped that the knurling on the foot pegs would last longer if the anodised surface was “hardened” slightly. I hoped the gold pin stripe on the tank would match the colour. None matched,...Velocette tank transfer, pin strip and rear sets ....all different. I suggest you get some material samples anodised and see how it turns out if you are looking for a particular colour.
It’s is difficult to cater for everyone’s needs in a short video. I usually slash the video when editing to make it interesting, and not boringly long. There are many publications on the Velocette clutch in terms of wear, alignment and condition etc. My assumption is that any Velocette owner is aware of what is needed to keep their bike running nicely. I doubt any modern bike shop would welcome a Velocette owner as a customer for a bike service. I sought, simply to highlight the clutch assembly and most importantly, the adjustment and setting up of the clutch. Is there anything specific I can help you with???
@@alanglen5902 That's very amiable of you, but I bought my Venom only last year. So I don't know yet what I don't know about the bike. By the way, I wouldn't dare to hand over my Velo to a modern shop. Cheers!
@@alanglen5902 As a matter of fact I have got several questions, if you don't mind. I recently bought a MAC Full Spring which ist fitted with thr 5-speed gear box and the primary drive train of an Indian Bullet. I think it was done because of the starter. It's carried out perfectly well, mark you. But now the bike leaves a lot of "Velocetteishness" behind. In the front the Velo twin leading shoe brake is fitted. With the MAC came a gear box in mint condition which is marked "14-3960". Could these gearbox being used to "work" for a Venom engine? Does an MAC Full Spring share the same frame with the Viper/Venom? In other words, could I tranform the MAC into a Viper/Venom if I was lucky enough to find a Venom engine, the clutch and the primary covers? The established hoity-toity Velocette specialists don't bother to answer these questions. I sincerely hope that my home made English is comprehensible. Cheers!
I have never owned a MAC or worked on one. I believe the series 14 gearbox will fit in a sprung MAC frame. If you have a “shed” and enjoy oily hands, I am sure you can perform this conversion and make it function well. I assume that the sleeve gear length / clutch is compatible with Venom primary chain alignment….chain cases……etc Clearance between the top frame tube and the top of the rocker box is probably OK, but needs to be checked. Engine plates can be modified. But the significant measurable from my perspective on the MSS, venom, viper engine / frame is the lower rear engine mounting bolt which engages into a threaded lug in the frame. I don’t believe there was radical redesign at Velocette, rather a slow evolution of the design, based on how can we improve, while keeping as much stuff which we know is working, as possible. Having a TLS front brake installed shows how compatible early and later items are, but you may have later front forks?? Outside my experience I am afraid. All I can offer is opinion on this. I suggest you talk to the “tech officers” in the VOC. People have been racing / thrashing/ tuning/ building special Velocettes, for many decades. I am confident someone will answer you with specifics, having done the conversion you have suggested. Alan
@@alanglen5902 Thanks a lot! I live in Germany and run an establishment for external and internal thread grinding, worm grinding and normal external and internal grinding. If I can be of service sometime...
Put a Yamaha one way valve in line to stop whet sumping but remember to remove the spring and ball bearing it the non return valve at the bottom of the oil tank
I use a hardware store water tap (ball valve) and fitted a micro switch to disable ignition on my Norton Commando oil feed. Feked in UK makes a similar setup for both coil ign and magneto bikes. Others put a buzzer or wire in the bike horn as alarm if powered on with tap still off.
![แฟนแนวใด๋ - ยูริ โตเกียวมิวสิค [ SyncVersion ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Fm8oDwos2uc/mqdefault.jpg)
Great stuff Alan , I decided to buy a Velocette again , had a MSS in the 60s
I came across your video series only by TH-cam recommendations and have watched the whole thing in one sitting! Gearboxes are a bit of a dark art for me so it was fascinating to watch. Your explanations were very good and clear and I think I understand the workings a lot better now! I’ve subscribed so I’ll look forward to seeing the next in the series.
Fantastic videos Alan
What an expert and explaining everything so well
Amazing work
Thanks 👍👍👍
Thanks Alan, I have a venom which is a right PITA to start, the previous owner told me it should be set up to slip slightly which then means you can't kick it properly!, the clutch adjustment will hopefully make it a more useable beast, thanks for your time!
Understood, allowing for correct adjustment, the setting up of the crank position, BEFORE that kick to start the engine is essential.
1 find compression and stop
2 lift the exhaust valve and slowly push the kick started down from TDC to BDC, so the crank stops at kick start BDC.
3 release the decompression, and raise the kick starter to TDC
4 kick hard to turn the crank and get the magneto to spark, having flooded the carb if required, with minimum throttle.
That usually works for me, however, cold 50 weight engine oil just soaks up all the energy and that's why I made the electric roller starter for when it is very cold.
@@alanglen5902 I think I have the correct preamble but as I say there is a possibility the clutch is slipping meaning I don't get the necessary downforce. I shall try your method of clutch adjustment when I come back from Holiday!
Thanks Alan, I can watch this stuff all day long ! I love it when you answer the question 5 secs after I ask it. Brilliant!
Thanks for your videos Alan. Unfortunately a majority of Velo owners are elderly and not tech savvy. I appreciate you have the combination of Velo experience and the tech side of things...plus the willingness to do it! Well done😎. I also like the way you modify your Velo to suit yourself too (500 conversion to Viper, Rearsets, modern BTH) as observed , I’m sure there is more. Well done, Alan. ( modified Venom 😬)
Thanks for the e mail. In fact the original drive side casing had burst and been badly repaired. I asked Dodkin if he could put a top hat repair in it. He offered me a casing instead with a Viper number on it. The rest of the engine is MSS original but has a Viper drive side casing.
Eventually I decided to increase the compression so I mounted the crank casing on my Myford (very carefully) and with a fly cutter, I managed to take off enough material off the crank case mouth, to get a compression ratio of 8.86 to 1. I probably have a photo of that …certainly before GoPro cameras.
Thanks
Fabulous video - At last I know a little about the fabled Velocette clutch - I thought it was going to remain a mystery to me for life - beautifully explained, great stuff . . . . .
Amusingly, I tuned into this video courtesy of Led Zeppelins Jimmy Page !! - he was demonstrating some guitar riffs and when he had finished, up popped your video !! . . .
Perhaps the legendary Rock God "Axeman" is also a Velo fan looking for tips ? . . .Good on him . . . Lol
Thanks. It took a while for me to understand it and deal with thrust ball bearing decay. It's stable now with the rollers in the release/lift bearing.
Very interesting video, thanks a lot.
Excellent series Alan. I well remember how you patiently explained your arrangements to me for the rear sets in Drumcondra when I was struggling to set up my own Viper Clubman c. 1983. Cheers, Gerry Clarke
Wow. You have a good memory... Thanks.
Very helpful video. Thanks for posting👍🏻
Wonderful video... thanks.
Excellent video, Alan. Thanks!
Very good work and excellent video. Thank you
Good job, looking forward to the next video 👍
Clever 1-2-3-4 adjustment. 👌
Nice 1 alan
Wow...what a wonderfully succinct and comprehensive tutorial on the wonder of the universe, the Velocette clutch! I hope to acquire my first Velocette shortly and will need these amazing secrets.
I have heard the Velocettes do not like to be held with the clutch lever pulled in for longer periods at traffic lights etc because of risk of overheating the clutch. Any truth to that?
The clutch has a limited lift, see early videos on building the 5 speed gear box...... With the standard springs and flat clutch plates and correct adjustment, I found no problem with clutch drag or over heating at traffic lights.
However...
I was getting clutch creep at full torque, so I installed a new spring carrier ring with 4 extra clutch springs. ( Thruxton spec.) NO MORE clutch slip / creep at full throttle BUT I now have to manage the gearbox so I am in neutral as I come to a halt at traffic lights etc. I believe that the extra clutch spring load distorts the outer plate when it is lifted, and some drag is evident at times.
It's easy to live with and just part of the intimate relationship and understanding which an old machine like a Velocette encourages and makes ownership all the more enjoyable.
Have fun.
Alan
i fited a norton comando clutch on a panther 650 worked good and light one finger belt drive i like velos had a mss 500 in the 60s another one i remember a conversation with friends on norton bsa etc handling i said you’ve left out the best silence i said velo
Not such an easy job on a Velocette. The entire design is based on having the gearbox sprocket outside of the clutch, in contrast to “conventional” British bike clutches.
Not such an easy job on a Velocette. The entire design is based on having the gearbox sprocket outside of the clutch, in contrast to “conventional” British bike clutches.
I like how we can gauge the time that this project has taken by how much your hair has grown since the first video.
Yes indeed, a key process measurable, as far as time is concerned. Also I believe my old workshop jacket has become more grotty and oily. Not sure I dare put it in the washing machine now, for fear of it polluting the inside of the machine and screwing up my clean clothes.
Thanks
The Velocette clutch, an elegant and simple device which is without doubt the very best clutch for a motor cycle, but for some reason is considered a complicated device? It is the lightest clutch I have ever used, yet properly adjusted does not slip, I think "modern man" used to electric starters and computer controlled things appears to be frightened by it, purely because he cannot be bothered to do any research . I like your pre load tool, no doubt essential with the new longer springs. I see you have a Viper crankcase, is that a replacement ? Many thanks for posting this video! Chris B.
Thanks. When I got the bike in 1980, approx, it was a derelict pile of junk. The engine was in bits, and the drive side crank casing had had a very ugly weld applied. The main bearing had been badly shimmed up and the casting had burst. The repair was bad but the large crack was worse. Mr Geoff Dodkin offered me a used casing. It was a sensible option. I had to machine the cylinder deck levels on both casings to get them to be level. I also raised the compression. I did go mad on this as I knew the 5 star / 4 star petrol was being phased out. The compression is now 8.86 to 1.
Sadly the Velocette is an elitist motorcycle in that so many people who are passionate motorcyclists now, have no idea about basic engineering and what looks good, in functional terms. I have learned a lot from this old bike over many decades and it has been fun.
@@alanglen5902 It is good, and sensible that you used the replacement half of Viper crankcase, were both halves not available? Elitist, I had not thought of the implications of that, it is the same with my Vincent, I suppose those with the money to buy such things are not always blessed with mechanical expertise, that is very sad, the same problem also effects the Morgan, at least we can keep the flag flying for these wonderful machines! Chris B.
I finally have my '54 MSS in my possession. Had difficulty trying to get full clutch release despite doing the "Drill" procedure as detailed in the workshop book. Took it all apart (it has the KTT belt drive setup). Found the previous owner has fit the shorter 7/8" springs for the 7-plate clutches, not the 1-1/8" springs as per parts book for this 9-plate clutch bike. I have correct springs on order, but would these short ones account for the problems it was having? Other problems found were some evidence of scoring/gouging on the thrust roller bearing cage and the inner primary casing has been bonded to the gearbox using some type of sealant, without the usually cork gasket fitted. I have not been able to remove it yet. Any thoughts on how best to remove without bending the cover....some kind of solvent etc? The adhesive looks a like a super strong flexible sealant...maybe a polyurethane type.
I found that with FLAT plates, the clutch drag you refer to was not an issue.
However, when I last rebuilt the clutch and later added a "thruxton" spring carrier with 4 extra springs, there was a tendency to drag with cold oil. This was to stop clutch creep / slip in top gear.
I have checked the leverage ratio on the handlebar lever. Some levers have a pivot close to the nipple which reduces clutch lift. Also I filed the end of the alloy dog leg lever so as to open out a bit further and thereby give me more movement on the clutch cable nipple before the other end hits the handlebar.......perhaps file the ball end as well to maximise cable movement??
I tend to glue / seal the inner chain case to the Cork gasket and then to the inner gearbox surface. I do this once I have adjusted the gearbox to get correct primary chain tension. This eliminates the chance of oil leaking here. Chain adjustment is hardly required when you have oil in the chain case continuously. If required, I buy and fit a new primary chain. I have replaced the original band type seal chain casings. I now use casings clamped with a set of small screws. In my experience, it is possible to get the chain case oil tight. I use a felt seal ring in the outer case.
As for releasing your inner chain case, petrol / brake cleaner and gentle leverage is all you can do.
Scoring / damage to the thrust bearing......I assume you use oil in the chain case? If you run it dry, due to the belt??? How will the roller bearing be lubricated / not fail prematurely?? If this has overheated it might be worth checking the 3 pins condition to make sure they are all the same length and that the spherical bearing surface on the inner race is also lubricated and slips on the clutch arm so the clutch lifts nicely.
That's all I can think of.
Alan
@@alanglen5902 THx. The casing is also the bolt up later type. According to the guy that makes the belt drive kits, there is sufficient oil getting past the gear box oil "thrower" shims to keep the thrust bearing happy. When I took it apart there was evidence of quite reasonable amount of oil present not only on the thrust bearing but all around the inside of the case. The bearing cage damage I found looked more like from a misaligned roller than friction heat....a rectangular notch pressed into the cage metal fit a roller almost exactly.
New bearing assembly on order just to be sure.
Hi Alan, what colour did u use for your rear sets?
The colour was basic bronze. I made the rear sets in 1983 approx and just got the parts anodised.
I hoped that the knurling on the foot pegs would last longer if the anodised surface was “hardened” slightly. I hoped the gold pin stripe on the tank would match the colour. None matched,...Velocette tank transfer, pin strip and rear sets ....all different.
I suggest you get some material samples anodised and see how it turns out if you are looking for a particular colour.
It would have been nice if you had told us what to take care of when putting the clutch together.
It’s is difficult to cater for everyone’s needs in a short video. I usually slash the video when editing to make it interesting, and not boringly long.
There are many publications on the Velocette clutch in terms of wear, alignment and condition etc.
My assumption is that any Velocette owner is aware of what is needed to keep their bike running nicely. I doubt any modern bike shop would welcome a Velocette owner as a customer for a bike service. I sought, simply to highlight the clutch assembly and most importantly, the adjustment and setting up of the clutch.
Is there anything specific I can help you with???
@@alanglen5902
That's very amiable of you, but I bought my Venom only last year. So I don't know yet what I don't know about the bike. By the way, I wouldn't dare to hand over my Velo to a modern shop.
Cheers!
@@alanglen5902
As a matter of fact I have got several questions, if you don't mind.
I recently bought a MAC Full Spring which ist fitted with thr 5-speed gear box and the primary drive train of an Indian Bullet. I think it was done because of the starter. It's carried out perfectly well, mark you. But now the bike leaves a lot of "Velocetteishness" behind. In the front the Velo twin leading shoe brake is fitted.
With the MAC came a gear box in mint condition which is marked "14-3960".
Could these gearbox being used to "work" for a Venom engine?
Does an MAC Full Spring share the same frame with the Viper/Venom? In other words, could I tranform the MAC into a Viper/Venom if I was lucky enough to find a Venom engine, the clutch and the primary covers?
The established hoity-toity Velocette specialists don't bother to answer these questions.
I sincerely hope that my home made English is comprehensible.
Cheers!
I have never owned a MAC or worked on one.
I believe the series 14 gearbox will fit in a sprung MAC frame. If you have a “shed” and enjoy oily hands, I am sure you can perform this conversion and make it function well.
I assume that the sleeve gear length / clutch is compatible with Venom primary chain alignment….chain cases……etc
Clearance between the top frame tube and the top of the rocker box is probably OK, but needs to be checked. Engine plates can be modified. But the significant measurable from my perspective on the MSS, venom, viper engine / frame is the lower rear engine mounting bolt which engages into a threaded lug in the frame. I don’t believe there was radical redesign at Velocette, rather a slow evolution of the design, based on how can we improve, while keeping as much stuff which we know is working, as possible.
Having a TLS front brake installed shows how compatible early and later items are, but you may have later front forks??
Outside my experience I am afraid. All I can offer is opinion on this.
I suggest you talk to the “tech officers” in the VOC. People have been racing / thrashing/ tuning/ building special Velocettes, for many decades. I am confident someone will answer you with specifics, having done the conversion you have suggested.
Alan
@@alanglen5902
Thanks a lot!
I live in Germany and run an establishment for external and internal thread grinding, worm grinding and normal external and internal grinding. If I can be of service sometime...
Put a Yamaha one way valve in line to stop whet sumping but remember to remove the spring and ball bearing it the non return valve at the bottom of the oil tank
I use a hardware store water tap (ball valve) and fitted a micro switch to disable ignition on my Norton Commando oil feed. Feked in UK makes a similar setup for both coil ign and magneto bikes. Others put a buzzer or wire in the bike horn as alarm if powered on with tap still off.