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Top gear is still 1 to 1, and I get better acceleration with the additional ratio.

Understood, allowing for correct adjustment, the setting up of the crank position, BEFORE that kick to start the engine is essential. 1 find compression and stop 2 lift the exhaust valve and slowly push the kick started down from TDC to BDC, so the crank stops at kick start BDC. 3 release the decompression, and raise the kick starter to TDC 4 kick hard to turn the crank and get the magneto to spark, having flooded the carb if required, with minimum throttle. That usually works for me, however, cold 50 weight engine oil just soaks up all the energy and that's why I made the electric roller starter for when it is very cold.

@@alanglen5902 I think I have the correct preamble but as I say there is a possibility the clutch is slipping meaning I don't get the necessary downforce. I shall try your method of clutch adjustment when I come back from Holiday!

Thanks for the response. Make sure you check the straightness of the main shaft and also use the correct thickness outer cover gasket to help control end float. Also, I made a video on the clutch in video 7 and 8 in the "5 speed conversion series." This may be of interest. I have never heard of your problem before. Interesting. Have fun Alan

I found that with FLAT plates, the clutch drag you refer to was not an issue. However, when I last rebuilt the clutch and later added a "thruxton" spring carrier with 4 extra springs, there was a tendency to drag with cold oil. This was to stop clutch creep / slip in top gear. I have checked the leverage ratio on the handlebar lever. Some levers have a pivot close to the nipple which reduces clutch lift. Also I filed the end of the alloy dog leg lever so as to open out a bit further and thereby give me more movement on the clutch cable nipple before the other end hits the handlebar.......perhaps file the ball end as well to maximise cable movement?? I tend to glue / seal the inner chain case to the Cork gasket and then to the inner gearbox surface. I do this once I have adjusted the gearbox to get correct primary chain tension. This eliminates the chance of oil leaking here. Chain adjustment is hardly required when you have oil in the chain case continuously. If required, I buy and fit a new primary chain. I have replaced the original band type seal chain casings. I now use casings clamped with a set of small screws. In my experience, it is possible to get the chain case oil tight. I use a felt seal ring in the outer case. As for releasing your inner chain case, petrol / brake cleaner and gentle leverage is all you can do. Scoring / damage to the thrust bearing......I assume you use oil in the chain case? If you run it dry, due to the belt??? How will the roller bearing be lubricated / not fail prematurely?? If this has overheated it might be worth checking the 3 pins condition to make sure they are all the same length and that the spherical bearing surface on the inner race is also lubricated and slips on the clutch arm so the clutch lifts nicely. That's all I can think of. Alan

@@alanglen5902 THx. The casing is also the bolt up later type. According to the guy that makes the belt drive kits, there is sufficient oil getting past the gear box oil "thrower" shims to keep the thrust bearing happy. When I took it apart there was evidence of quite reasonable amount of oil present not only on the thrust bearing but all around the inside of the case. The bearing cage damage I found looked more like from a misaligned roller than friction heat....a rectangular notch pressed into the cage metal fit a roller almost exactly. New bearing assembly on order just to be sure.

Many thanks

I was as close as I could get. It was a wonderful experience. It started me off trying to learn to fly, once I retired. At the end, I walked around the aircraft. there were a few oil leaks evident around the engine, propeller. It was a real working engine, not just a museum exhibit. Well worth the money.

@@alanglen5902 A very nice experience, was Dan Griffiths flying you? Chris B.

I found that simply by flushing out the tank with hot water, any risk of explosion can be eliminated. However I still leave the filler cap off so that any hot gas can escape....... Thanks Alan

I just asked for gloss clear coat 2 pack. I have yet to finish the pin stripe masking off....very tiresome, and the weather is crap now for painting outside. I shall apply 2 pack gold and then prepare the tank for the 2 pack clear. Which will seal the Velocette transfer . Its getting more of a challenge with each paint layer.

@@alanglen5902 Will the clear coat be petrol,(or what passes for petrol now), proof, I take all of the ethanol out of my fuel now. Chris B.

Yes. I specifically asked for a clear cote, which was petrol / ethanol proof......however, time will tell. I don't want to test it as I am not ready to use the paint yet. Once mixed the paint has to be used.

Yes, the gears are slightly narrower, but a far tougher more modern material. The only issue on the road is the additional effort to rotate the selector plate. The detent on the perimeter of the selector plate seems to have more authority than on the original selector plate.

Agreed, the fibre glass covers gave a few more MPH but look nasty. Even today, most new motorcycles engine are painted black because it is cheaper than finishing them nicely.. I find this element of new motor cycles utterly repellant.

@@alanglen5902 Yes the no need for extra finishing of the castings was one reason for the Black Shadow being stove blacked, although it is the one engine finished black I find acceptable, (Oh, the RR Merlin also looks very nice in black). Chris B.

No easy way to do this. I put a parting off tool in as far as I could then with the lathe on "slow ahead" I hacksawed through the rest of it with 1 hack saw blade and lots of 20/50. I cannot remember how long it took, but going off to an engineering firm with a mech saw, and coming back a week later etc etc was an unacceptable option. Eventually, I was able to clean up both sides and make it look respectable. Since then I have bought several "biscuits" cut off from bar stock, to save time, and I found this empowering as having material in stock, for Handwheels / starter roller ends etc etc has been useful, and saved a lot of hack sawing. Alan

@@alanglen5902 I find the parting off tool one of the worst jobs on a Lathe, I machined the 4 aluminium brake drum muffs for my Vincent with a tapered parting tool, it was a sweat inducing job! For those large diameter "disc" jobs I have a Warco bandsaw, very cheap and surprisingly useful. Chris B.

Thanks. When I got the bike in 1980, approx, it was a derelict pile of junk. The engine was in bits, and the drive side crank casing had had a very ugly weld applied. The main bearing had been badly shimmed up and the casting had burst. The repair was bad but the large crack was worse. Mr Geoff Dodkin offered me a used casing. It was a sensible option. I had to machine the cylinder deck levels on both casings to get them to be level. I also raised the compression. I did go mad on this as I knew the 5 star / 4 star petrol was being phased out. The compression is now 8.86 to 1. Sadly the Velocette is an elitist motorcycle in that so many people who are passionate motorcyclists now, have no idea about basic engineering and what looks good, in functional terms. I have learned a lot from this old bike over many decades and it has been fun.

@@alanglen5902 It is good, and sensible that you used the replacement half of Viper crankcase, were both halves not available? Elitist, I had not thought of the implications of that, it is the same with my Vincent, I suppose those with the money to buy such things are not always blessed with mechanical expertise, that is very sad, the same problem also effects the Morgan, at least we can keep the flag flying for these wonderful machines! Chris B.

The clutch has a limited lift, see early videos on building the 5 speed gear box...... With the standard springs and flat clutch plates and correct adjustment, I found no problem with clutch drag or over heating at traffic lights. However... I was getting clutch creep at full torque, so I installed a new spring carrier ring with 4 extra clutch springs. ( Thruxton spec.) NO MORE clutch slip / creep at full throttle BUT I now have to manage the gearbox so I am in neutral as I come to a halt at traffic lights etc. I believe that the extra clutch spring load distorts the outer plate when it is lifted, and some drag is evident at times. It's easy to live with and just part of the intimate relationship and understanding which an old machine like a Velocette encourages and makes ownership all the more enjoyable. Have fun. Alan

Yes it should work as long as the flange size is compatible. Variability includes, valve timing, (M17/8 Cam in my case) and compression ratio , and jet sizes. Agreed on measuring float height. While I believe "a float level" can be tuned and managed with jet selection, symmetry between carb float level is essential when more than 1 carb is involved. Have fun!!!

Next video under way. Tiresome masking off for the pin stripe....really tiresome!!!!

@@alanglen5902 When I have an re-pro bare metal tank for my Commando painted, I asked the pro painter how he was planning to do the pinstriping. He said he has a guy that does them by hand. Had my doubts that these skills still existed, but the result was absolutely amazing. Was only $50 for the hand pinstriping on top of the $500 for the rest of the paint job. Have seen videos of some pinstiping done by first painting the gold layer on tank, applying some special pinstriping "mask" tape on top of gold, then spraying whole base colour (black). Mask strip then removed to reveal gold beneath...followed by clear coats.

Thanks. I am currently setting out a pattern with masking tape and I plan to apply gold paint from a 2K rattle can. I dont have the skills or equipment for free hand pin striping. My many years on a drawing board, taught me that symmetry is essential for it to look good to me. Setting out is not that difficult, if you hold the tank in front of you, about 5 feet away from a mirror. This enables you to take a view on symmetry by rotating the tank from side to side. This project has dragged on too long. Unfortunately the weather is bleak at the moment so outdoor painting needs the right weather window. I plan to do another video on this regardless. Thanks for the comment. Alan

@@alanglen5902 Would it be helpful to make some kind of cardboard cut out shape to form the inside edge of the stripe, then simply use that same "stencil" on each side of the tank? Basically forming a mirror image.

The problem is that the tank forms a compound curve. I mark out circles and cut them out from masking tape and keep sticking on / removing them until it looks good. I then join the circles with straight tape. It is slow and tiresome but we can trust our eyes to spot lack of parallelism in gap thickness between masked off surfaces. I have one side nicely prepared now for painting, and an working on the other now. Then as before I shall use the mirror to inspect both side for adequate symmetry. Thanks again.

The starter is rated at 2.2 Kw. It is a geared starter motor from Powerlite in UK. I do not know what vehicle it is fitted to. I simply asked for the most powerful motor they had in 12 Volts, and then sought to make it work. I chose not to disassemble it and simply make it a standard replacement unit. I engage second gear, clutch gripped, lift the exhaust valve, turn on the motor and once the engine is turning release the decompression lever. You have to be careful that you don’t sit there with the starter motor turning with the engine stationary against compression. It will simply spin the rollers and melt them, it’s a very powerful set up. A far cry from the mini starter motor. Have fun!!!!

Thanks.

Thanks 👍

It’s is difficult to cater for everyone’s needs in a short video. I usually slash the video when editing to make it interesting, and not boringly long. There are many publications on the Velocette clutch in terms of wear, alignment and condition etc. My assumption is that any Velocette owner is aware of what is needed to keep their bike running nicely. I doubt any modern bike shop would welcome a Velocette owner as a customer for a bike service. I sought, simply to highlight the clutch assembly and most importantly, the adjustment and setting up of the clutch. Is there anything specific I can help you with???

@@alanglen5902 That's very amiable of you, but I bought my Venom only last year. So I don't know yet what I don't know about the bike. By the way, I wouldn't dare to hand over my Velo to a modern shop. Cheers!

@@alanglen5902 As a matter of fact I have got several questions, if you don't mind. I recently bought a MAC Full Spring which ist fitted with thr 5-speed gear box and the primary drive train of an Indian Bullet. I think it was done because of the starter. It's carried out perfectly well, mark you. But now the bike leaves a lot of "Velocetteishness" behind. In the front the Velo twin leading shoe brake is fitted. With the MAC came a gear box in mint condition which is marked "14-3960". Could these gearbox being used to "work" for a Venom engine? Does an MAC Full Spring share the same frame with the Viper/Venom? In other words, could I tranform the MAC into a Viper/Venom if I was lucky enough to find a Venom engine, the clutch and the primary covers? The established hoity-toity Velocette specialists don't bother to answer these questions. I sincerely hope that my home made English is comprehensible. Cheers!

I have never owned a MAC or worked on one. I believe the series 14 gearbox will fit in a sprung MAC frame. If you have a “shed” and enjoy oily hands, I am sure you can perform this conversion and make it function well. I assume that the sleeve gear length / clutch is compatible with Venom primary chain alignment….chain cases……etc Clearance between the top frame tube and the top of the rocker box is probably OK, but needs to be checked. Engine plates can be modified. But the significant measurable from my perspective on the MSS, venom, viper engine / frame is the lower rear engine mounting bolt which engages into a threaded lug in the frame. I don’t believe there was radical redesign at Velocette, rather a slow evolution of the design, based on how can we improve, while keeping as much stuff which we know is working, as possible. Having a TLS front brake installed shows how compatible early and later items are, but you may have later front forks?? Outside my experience I am afraid. All I can offer is opinion on this. I suggest you talk to the “tech officers” in the VOC. People have been racing / thrashing/ tuning/ building special Velocettes, for many decades. I am confident someone will answer you with specifics, having done the conversion you have suggested. Alan

@@alanglen5902 Thanks a lot! I live in Germany and run an establishment for external and internal thread grinding, worm grinding and normal external and internal grinding. If I can be of service sometime...

Sorry. I only understand English.

@@alanglen5902 Hello, how are you? I am writing to you from Argentina, you will not have a copy of the manual from the Velocette workshop I have a friend who has that motorcycle and he can't get it and I would need to check some parts thank you

I have several manuals on this bike but have nothing easily transmitted electronically. Sadly I have no access to a scanner or a photo copier. The Velocette Red Book is very informative. It would be possible to buy the book and post it to you. Not sure how the finances of this would work out. I imagine postage to Argentina would be expensive. Please advise Alan

Not such an easy job on a Velocette. The entire design is based on having the gearbox sprocket outside of the clutch, in contrast to “conventional” British bike clutches.

Not such an easy job on a Velocette. The entire design is based on having the gearbox sprocket outside of the clutch, in contrast to “conventional” British bike clutches.

Thanks. I bought a new oil pump from Dodkin in 1982. The original had got rusty and pitted as the bike was deralict when I bought it. I see the oil pump as being something which will never see the light of day in my life time as so far it has Only Ever had good clean 50 weight go through it. I expect no noticeable wear on the drive gear or the oil pump shafts. I remember the need to assemble the pump segments so that the outer surface remained completely cylindrical so it fitted nicely into the crank casing. I remember agonising about the orientation of the pump before I inserted it into the hot crank casing. I remember examining the crank case bore surface for scores etc. Sadly I have no photos of any of this. It easy to measure / assess the internal clearances. Happy to discuss further………I may have an oil pump buried away in an old crank casing….I may dig it out and have a look at it. Hmmmm. It might be worth a video. Alan

@@alanglen5902 Many thanks for your prompt reply Alan - much appreciated. It does look quite a straight forward job but the intricacies of measuring tolerances, judging wear, improving tolerances, and reassembly and refitting would be very interesting as no-one has made a youtube video that I can find. I don't see an overhaul business advertised so I think a video would be invaluable. I'll take photos when I do it but I wouldn't have your presentation skills to make a video. Thanks again for the youtube videos you've made. Brian

Where are you located?? Alan

Do you want a set of dimensions and a sketch? Can you use a lathe and weld up piece of material??

@@alanglen5902 Hi Alan, in Aus and yes can weld and have access to a lathe. Would appreciate drawing and dimensions plus details of any costs which I am willing to pay regards, Peter

@@petershacklock6457 can you send me your e mail address. Mine is. alanbigsplash@gmail.com

Dimensions/ sketch/ photos on the way by e mail

Agreed. The taper on the pilot air screw is such that I cannot full control the idle mixture. The air screw has a blunt end. The bore for the slide is an “average” diameter rather than a precise dimension. But, it works somehow and picks up cleanly now with that 4 stroke spray jet at the bottom of the Venturi. For me a positive result.

I wonder if these are made in China/India.

I have no experience of a MAC gearbox, the design philosophy is probably the same however. The most significant thing about engaging top gear is when attaching that threaded ring onto the sleeve gear which secures the clutch. Once 4th gear is engaged, the sleeve gear cannot move inboard(very much) and thereby make it difficult to engage those threads, as you compress the clutch springs. If the lay shaft and main shaft are meshed together and offered into the gearbox they should locate in the lay shaft bearing and also the sleeve gear. Then It should be possible to align the selector rods/ forks into the cam plate . That’s all I can suggest. In later videos I rebuilt the 4 speed which I removed from the bike. This may offer some clues. Thanks for the comment. Alan

The froth tower built into the oil tank cap became necessary when I started to race. I had already drilled a hole in the crank casing to establish a later style breather. Both now exit to a small collector tank / oil trap which remains dry. Essentially the tower has a set of peripheral holes leading into an upper chamber, the floor of which is cone shaped and leads down to a central stainless tube (piece of car radio antenna) which goes below the oil level. This tends to separate the oil and gas and the gas keeps going and the oil falls down below. The outlet tube was set at a tangent to “encourage” a spin to the gas and thereby shed its oil mist into the central cone. The alloy part of the tower is located in an original lid where I bored a hole in the lid. I secured it with JB Weld. I may have some photos which I can e mail . Thanks for the comment.

@@alanglen5902 awk right I see now. I’ve seen the later style breather but not set up that way. Mainly from under the mag to the oil tank and then to an outlet ran to the back of the bike. I’ve no froth tower on my oil tank might have to look in to doing a breather modification Thanks Alan

The series of videos started with the rebuilding and preparation for the 5 speed conversion. Look for Velocette 500, 5 speed conversion , part 1........through to 8...etc

Yes indeed, a key process measurable, as far as time is concerned. Also I believe my old workshop jacket has become more grotty and oily. Not sure I dare put it in the washing machine now, for fear of it polluting the inside of the machine and screwing up my clean clothes. Thanks

In fact, throughout the video series, everything was carefully oiled / had a thin film of oil on it. No point in damaging new stuff during assembly…HOWEVER…that pawl was the wrong shape and needed to be oil stoned to fit. I have no data on the heat treatment / or material spec, so I was very cautious in getting it to function properly. Once it reached a minimum clearance and it functioned, I was happy, as inevitably in service, parts would get more comfortable with one another, and loosen up. Thanks for the comment.

Thanks for the e mail. In fact the original drive side casing had burst and been badly repaired. I asked Dodkin if he could put a top hat repair in it. He offered me a casing instead with a Viper number on it. The rest of the engine is MSS original but has a Viper drive side casing. Eventually I decided to increase the compression so I mounted the crank casing on my Myford (very carefully) and with a fly cutter, I managed to take off enough material off the crank case mouth, to get a compression ratio of 8.86 to 1. I probably have a photo of that …certainly before GoPro cameras. Thanks

Thanks for the e mail. Sadly I think you are mixing me up with someone else. I simply have never had a Mikuni on my Velocette. I have used Concentrics on many machines, and the problems I have found are: Float valve leaking , cured by a rubber tipped needle Pilot circuits getting jammed up with unleaded petrol drying up when not being used. I resort to the ultra sound cleaner to be sure the passage ways are clean on the Velocette. I cured this on my T150 by replacing the carbs with the later carb body which has a screw out cover for the gallery which jams so it can be cleaned. Spit back / stall at tickover, no real solution here apart from a slightly rich mixture and slightly fast tick over. I remember Geoff Dodkin telling me that Inlet valve opening should not exceed 55 before …. if any sort of tick over was to be achieved. Perhaps the key measurable for performance here is when the exhaust valve opens as that is when the power stops being made. You mention your engine kicks back. That means you have a good enough spark a kick start speed to start combustion. Great stuff. Now all you need to do is get that spark to occur at the right time so no kick backs take place. … Say 5 before TDC?? Then ensure your range of advance gets you up to no more than 38 degrees. I have had no experience of Alton electric starters. Velocette kick back is a potentially dreadful event. I have damaged right hip to prove it. I hope some of this might be useful. All the best Alan Glen

Hello Alan, thank you very much for your experienced and detailed answer I will try again to do my best for setting the MK2 following your tips If I couldn't overcome the quoted obstacles, may be a Mikuni could be the choice All the best

I bought that screwdriver in the late 70,s from the Snap On man who called regularly. I imagine similar are still available today. Those Snap On tools have lasted a long time but the plastic handles on the screwdrivers are in poor shape and the chrome has worn off the sockets and extension shafts and ratchets.

Thanks. It took a while for me to understand it and deal with thrust ball bearing decay. It's stable now with the rollers in the release/lift bearing.