ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ต.ค. 2024
- Again, in this video, I will demonstrate how to troubleshoot the remaining components of the air injection system. First, I explain two methods of starting up the air pump. I will be using a fused jumper lead, a jumper and a test light method. Discussion is given about the short-comings of using a test light to energize devices. Also, I show the correct method of checking a relay contact which may be contrary to what you may have seen or learned. Then I show a method of how to confirm the combi valve is opening and closing without taking it off the car. Amperage checks are made on the air pump in a loaded and unloaded condition. Along with the amperage checks, I demonstrate the proper method of putting the clamp around the wire to ensure that you have the correct polarity shown even before you put the clamp on the wire. Also, to help improve your diagnostics skills, I've included some links below where two fella You Tubers are using test lights.
This is a two part series where Will Robinson of Robinson Auto is using a test light to help troubleshoot a Daytime Running Lights. The first part is located here:
• Daytime running light ...
The second part is located here:
• Part-2 Daytime running...
And Dave from his channel of Spelunkerd shows that test lights are not created equal. This video is located here:
• Not all test lights ar...
Enjoy the video everyone, and be sure to leave your comments or questions if you have any.
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I have watched a lot of automotive repair video’s. This one by far is absolutely great!! He doesn’t waste 4 or5 minutes telling what he is going to do. Excellent video production!!!! 👍👍👍👍
Thank you Leonard for the comment and have a great day!
By far, you're the best auto teacher I've ever heard! Well done!!
+Greg Debrosse Why thank you very much Greg. I really appreciate it and have a great weekend!
Both me and my 2003 VW GLI Jetta are so thankful for your videos! I've learned so much from watching them. You really are an amazing teacher, very clear and thorough. You made what seemed to be quite overwhelming completely possible. Thanks so much!
Always glad to help Caroline and also nice to hear that you were able to understand the material. Take care, have a super, great weekend and a glorious Thanksgiving.
Six years later this detailed video is still relevant. Thanks! The dealer give me an estimate of $1,500. I am going to do my homework now.
1500 dollars is a lot of money. Good luck in your troubleshooting and hope the videos can give you some insight to your issue!
Great job, I like the trick with the gloves and you showing and telling people how to properly test a relay which is testing the circuit dynamically. The explanation of test lamp resistance and how it changes the supplied voltage to the relay coil was good too.
Thanks for this great troubleshooting guide. I was able to figure out that my air pump check valve was bad using the vacuum method. Jumped my air pump and it pumped perfectly. Thanks again!
Glad to hear the video helped!
Excellent work! It is amazing how thorough you are in checking and proving your tests! I can see why Schrodinger recommends you!
Hi caduceus33. Glad you liked the videos and Matt has some good videos also. Have a good night!
very nice sir . I dint learn just one thing in this video lot of thing for learn , thanks again .. I have 14 years experience in electrical but first time I saw new method of teaching ..
You sir are very informative you helped me fixed my mom's elderly friend who doesn't have the cash for a mechanic thank you very much
Thank you very much Ben and I'm always glad to hear from people who were able to fix their car or a friends. What issue did you have with the car if you don't mind me asking and what was the fix?
definitely best diagnostic video I've ever seen. great lighting, explanation and very thorough
Thank you very much Pat and I appreciate you leaving a comment!
where do you get your wiring diagrams?
The ones used in this video series are from a paid subscription. But you can get free wiring diagrams and TSBs for a vehicle located here. www.bbbind.com/tech_database.html Just fill out the short form, click on the agree button at the bottom and you're in to select your vehicle.
What is the paid service?
What the best repair manuals today?
The ones used in the videos are from Mitchell On-Demand located here www.eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp The service information is located within this website also. Mitchell redraws all of the wiring diagrams to have a consistent look to them no matter who the manufacturer is. The draw back is that you could have data that's incorrect. I've run into this a few times with the VW Jetta. Another source that I've used for service information for the VWs is from www.bentleypublishers.com/ The hardcopy service manuals (there were two manuals for the 2001 VW Jetta) that I owned, it includes the service information and wiring diagrams.
Another paid subscription website one that I've used is from www.alldatadiy.com where all of the wiring diagrams and service information is from the OEM manufacturer. Basically, copies of the OEM service information. Hope that helps you out!
Always learning from your videos. Thank you 😊
Great Video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge...The reason why the amp draw is higher with the Komi valve open is because the air pump is 'moving' air, so it has a load on it. When the valve is closed, there is no air to move, so there is no load on the air pump. The blower wheel in the air pump is just spinning and not pushing any air.
Lots of great information and troubleshooting techniques thumbs up, you guys had me cracking up, the best part was the gloves lol their as limp as me sometimes followed by a giggle lol terry I could read your mind at that moment after she giggled “hmm well you didn't need to agree with that” great job guys
I'm glad you like the video busjockey, and I appreciate you watching and for leaving some comments. Thanks again!
Hi busjockey. On the 289, it's pretty much a graphing meter and I've used it for looking at a voltage and moving bundles of wires around looking for intermittent opens. It works really great for that. I can just set it up to record, forget the meter, start moving wires and then come back to the meter and see if there are any dropouts. On the sampling, the lowest setting is one-second intervals. For what I was using it for, that was okay. It wouldn't do very well if you needed a faster sampling.
Wonderful series! Very detailed, and excellent diagnostics skills and procedures! I wish more people would do proper diagnosis. ...Then again, maybe I don't, because I'd be out of a job! ;-)
Thanks a bunch for posting these! I'm going to check out the rest of your channel.
Thanks rhkips for your comments. As you know, most people out there couldn't really care about diagnosis or how systems work. They want to know where is the silver bullet so they can just change out a part without doing any checking at all. And you being a tech, I'm sure you see the same thing in the shop too. In the videos that I've created, I've tried to show everything from the beginning which includes the symptoms, the diagnosis along with the repair. Of course, that usually turns out to be several videos. In the end, I think most folks, at least the DIY people, want to see a repair and not be concerned with the diagnosis. In any event, I hope you enjoy the other videos and hope you pick up some useful information from them. Take care...
I will admit that I do not do diagnostics as thoroughly as you did in these videos. For me it depends upon the problems, and how much the part costs to fix said problem. For instance if I lose power to my car, and the car will no longer turn over. Well if there are no lights on then that tells me that it could be the battery or the alternator. If you were driving down the road and that happens. Then it would most likely be the alternator since the alternator charges the battery, and maintains the car running once started. This is generally how I do my diagnostics since I do not have a lot tools at my disposal yet. I also talk to the dealership mechanic and see what they think, and various other sources. If the general consensus that it is most likely the alternator (from example) then that is what I replace. The oblivious down side is that I could be wrong and just spent money that I did not need to spend, but the plus side is that I know that is not the problem, and will less likely need to be replaced anytime soon. Of course I am more than willing to learn more from you because your method is very accurate, and you are quite knowledgeable. So if you do not mind, impart your knowledge upon me, and I will learn to the best of my abilities. Thank you so much for series.
Okay, I just went to your channel and saw five videos. I'll have to check them out.
Glad you liked the video! And get your wife to shoot a video of yourself doing a car repair. I've been to your channel in the past, but alas, there were no videos. And as you know, there's one more video to wrap this series up which will include the smoke machine, VCDS and one that I wasn't going to include originally, is using Picoscope to look at the amperage of the air pump so that I can check the electrical integrity of the armature windings and brushes. And from that, we can calculate RPMs.
"gloves limp as me sometimes " lol 😂
+Greg D Hey Greg...thanks for dropping in and leaving a comment.
@16:00 You should not have been surprised. Obstructing the outflow of a fan actually decreases the load. Think about it. You are reducing the amount of air that is being moved so less work is being done. Something I learned from my father at the age of 10. He used a vacuum cleaner for that lesson. (The rest of the material was great. It seemed a bit slow but it is great teaching. And great tips regarding testing relays.)
Yes, you are correct David that when there is no flow, the load is less. Thanks for the comment!
Thanks Will as I appreciate your comments. I figured if you're going to do some work, just as well have a little fun along the way. I'm glad that you enjoyed the video and that you liked the sense of humor with the gloves. It was all unscripted and it just burped out of my mouth. Smiling...
Thank you sir for this trouble shooting classes.
Sorry Alfredo for the delay as TH-cam did not contact me and you're quite welcomed.
Yep, I'm glad it wasn't the motor because of the cost. Yes, the problem was hoses on top of the engine and a bad valve. I contribute the failure to heat, vibration and hot gases. Thanks for the comment.
Outstanding, love these videos.
I'm confused. Solenoid measured same resistance as you got (57.6? forget, did it yesterday) and makes a clicking sound with 12V. Jumpered the 100 Amp relay and the pump fired up but... no air came out the exhaust (latex gloves didn't fill).
Replaced some tubing.... no luck.
I wonder if the Kombi Valve needs to be pulled and cleaned out of carbon. Have to find some time and pull off the front end, I think.
Hi Dottor and glad you're liking the videos. When you energize the solenoid you have to be sure that the mechanics are physically open inside. As you saw in the video(s), I used the rotary intake change-over valve to see if it worked by using the hand vacuum pump. When you're sure that the solenoid is open, then you've got an issue with the vacuum line going to the combi valve or there's an issue with the combi valve itself. One last issue but not likely is that the passageways inside the head is blocked, but it's not common. Hope that gets you going in the thinking process and good luck on what you find...
This was super informative! My car gave me p0491 and p0492 "insufficient flow bank 1" and "insufficient flow bank 2". Your vids helped me understand this system and I like how you troubleshot this thing. I found a broken vacuum line on the combi valve and when I investigated it, I noticed that some joker plugged up the line! Mine was the 3.2 L engine but the components were the same as yours.
The light hasn't come back on yet but if it does there's still a lot of things I can check now that I understand how the system works. I really dig how you broke it down with an illustration, tracing the schematics, and then drawing the components out. That's what I like to do also. Where did you get your schematics? I have some haynes and bentley manuals but they don't have those schematics/wiring diagrams.
Always glad to hear that the videos help someone out like yourself. The key to any effective troubleshooting is learning the system. Once you know how it works, you can develop your own diagnostics methods of checking the system. Sounds like you may have found your issue and hopefully, the light won't come back on. The schematics are from a paid description, about $25 a year and gives you access to the wiring diagrams, repair information and the TSB's. Here is the link if you're interested. www.eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp
I'm glad for you that the motor was OK, and a big part of the problem was a bad set of hoses. Do you think engine heat cooked those vacuum hoses?
Thank you so much for the detailed diagnosis help. I have only thus far checked for leaks in the hoses, and that the pump turns on when powered directly at the pump terminals. It does not however turn on when I bridge the relay directly. Would this indicate an open circuit coming from ignition? Is the ignition supposed to be in the "on" position for this test? Thanks again, stuzman. Great stuff!
Hi Mark and glad you're finding the videos helpful! Since you powered the pump directly there, you know the pump works. When you say you bridged the relay directly, do you mean that you jumped across the contact? If so, the pump should run. The hot side of the relay contact is fed directly from the battery through a 50 Amp fuse where it's device ID is Fuse 2. This fusible link is located directly behind the battery along with other fuses. So, you don't need to turn the ignition switch on to do this test. If it doesn't run when you do this, you have either a B+ supply issue, (maybe fuse is blown) or you have an open circuit which could be in the B+ side or the ground side.
Awsome video helped refresh my memory thanks
Thank you for your time and effort.
You're quite welcomed.
good diagnostic amigo excellent
Thank you very much my friend!
Great video. Very thorough..
Thank you juan for your comment and that you liked the video. Take care...
One of the very best! You tanks I like know where to look all information you find for us ? Tanks
Thank you very much misael!
Learned alot. Thank you-Sensei
You're quite welcome Vic!
sir I have a question , when will be operate or on the relay of secondary air pump . or , where from signal go to relay coil for operate ? awaited your feedback thanks .
TANK I FIND YOU SIR SO GOOD TEACHER TANKS BOSS
Thank you Edwin!
Very helpful video. How do you identify which fuse or fuses control the trunk light and the glove box light on a 2000 Jetta 1.8T. Tks.
You can look into your owner's manual and see if you can get some info there. If not, then you'll have to use a wiring diagram.
On the fluke 289 you have, what is the sampling of the graphing for the meter? Didn't know if it was a standard graphing meter of a power graphing meter where it tracks frequency. Thanks.
an amazing technician
Thank you very much!
I am still having problems with my fuse blowing #43 10 amp. We did notice that there was variation on the current coming off the relay (100) in your video. I don't know what to do.
Great video very helpfully
Thank you Josh and glad to hear that you liked the video!
hello sir how you doin,you know what im very happy to watching your video,about to solve the the p0411 trouble,your a very good technisian, i have a 2005 audi a4 1.8L, when i open the pipe connected to the air pump,theres a lot of water,,it means that the kombi valve is bad,thats why the secondary air pump is damage?
+RemGuiller Bravo Sounds like you've found the problem. Best to find out how the water got in there. And thanks for dropping in and sharing your thoughts.
This a great video good job !
jessie morales Thanks Jessie, I appreciate and thanks for the sub.
amazing job on putting these videos together. lots of respect in then editing the video to double check with ohm resistance. do you a have a link to where you printed out those schematics? sorry if I missed it in another video. thanks.
Thanks Luis..The wiring diagrams that I used comes from a paid subscription and if want to use these, they are from www.eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp If you want to get free wiring diagrams along with the TSBs, but they are in a different format (VW style), you can get them from here www.bbbind.com/tech_database.html Glad you liked the videos and hope you find them helpful!
stuzman your a life saver sir! keep up the great content your delivering!
I am so glad i stumbled apon your channel! Subscribed! I have a 1998 vw cabrio manual and i have a p1450 code i cannot get rid of..funny thing is i just had it smogged and the guy said it passed flying colors and was so impressed by the condition of my car inside and out and then bam p1450! Lol I followed your advice on how to trouble shoot the issue tonight while watching and following alongside you as best i can and i even changed out my relay & tripped the relay to run with the glove on the tail pipe and it didnt inflate just like yours, i also changed all of my old rubber hoses and checked if the combi held air and gloves inflated. I dont have a volts tester so i couldn't follow along anymore..so what can i do? I am curious is my car and this jetta the same when it comes to trouble shooting and locations of parts ect? Thank you! Ciara: D
Glad you found the videos useful. If you don't have a voltmeter, you could fee the solenoid valves to be sure that they energized. As for the glove not inflating, did you put any vacuum on the line going to the combi-valve? Otherwise, the glove won't blow up. Sounds like you're figuring out pretty good and you should find a solution to your problem in no time. I don't know if the parts are in the same exact location, but the basics of troubleshooting the air injection system is the same.
Thank you so much for the fast reply! Yeah i i followed the steps you did by sticking the wires in the 1 & 2 plug where my relay was and it kicked on and the gloves didnt inflate, but when i used my hand pump and hooked it to my combi valve and pumped the gloves inflated fast.. Im thinking its my solenoid valve? Maybe a short in wires since its a p1450 code which is secondary air injection system circuit short to positive B+? Lol i didnt check if pressure holds into my solenoid yet so im going to do that now and then do i chase/test wires on the solenoid clusters? & by any chance what is a short circuit B+ mean or location? Thank you so much! Also love the little jokes you add and how (your wife?) giggles at them and records, SO CUTE. keep the videos coming
Okay, sounds like the passage ways through the head, combi-valve and all are good. In diagnostics whenever you think something like 'im thinking its my solenoid valve', you have to prove it. So, do some diagnostics for yourself to prove if it's good or bad. As for the B+ shorted to ground, I ran into that a couple of years ago where on the Jetta, there were about a dozen codes all saying B+ shorted to ground. This was all the injectors, O2 senor heaters, MAF, purge valve, air pump for fuel evap system, etc. I knew there were no fuses blown for any of these circuits, so how could this be, B+ shorted to ground. It turns out that this particular scenario was the fuel pump relay which fed all of these circuits. The contact for it would intermittently open and this would open the B+ which fed these circuits. The computer then sees that the voltage across the loads for these circuits as 0V since the B+ is gone. And then comes to the conclusion that the B+ must be shorted to ground. In reality, the B+ is open. So, in your case with the P1450 code, you'll probably having the B+ opening. I don't know which part of the air injection system this is for as I'll let you do the research for that. Just in case that you don't have any wiring diagrams as you probably need them, here is a link for free diagrams. Just fill out the short form and you get them. Good luck on finding whatever your issue is. www.bbbind.com/tech_database.html
found the loose hose location. was hidden behind what would be the fuel regulator? looks like that is what it was. could only see a bit of it from an angle at the driver fender. from there just had to feel my way to plug it in. wow it was hidden good. just thought i would throw you an update on it. no telling how long it has been unplugged. Judging by the rough running directly after plugging it back in until the O2 started correcting it. I would say it has been unplugged for a long, long time.
Rhage73 Good job there Rhage and I knew you would get it figured out. I'm sure that your car is running a lot better.
I know I comment alot and thanks for your replies. My air pump works. I jumped it, but just the other day I noticed that there is no more vacuum cleaner sound when I start the car. The secondary air pump did not kick on. Car had been off for about 8 hours. The pump is good. I can jump it and it will run... any ideas as to where I should start troubleshooting possibly the relay I don't know how to test it....
Starting at the relay would be a good place to start. I outlined all of the troubleshooting in this video series. You may want to review them which outlines the steps. It would just be too long to outline the steps here in a comment.
I did everything like you. I started the pump with jumper, no air in the gloves. I used hand vacuum pump in combi valve, started the SAP, but still no air in the gloves. Does it mean that combi is stuck in closed position? Thanks
Yes, it sounds like the combi valve is not opening. But keep in mind that there may be a restriction in the head passageways. Remove the combi valve and do a test to test if you can blow through it which should confirm if the valve is working properly.
@@stuzman52 I've taken the valve off. I found a lot of gunk inside hmm. Ok, used the vac pump, blew the air under the vacuum, impossible, the air is not coming out at the other end
Hey Stuzman52,
I was wondering were you got the wiring sheet from? is there link that you could share? I have an 03 VW Passat
Hi Randy. For all of the wiring diagrams in this video series, I used this website although it's not free. But for $25.99 a year which includes all the wiring diagrams, repair information, TSBs, etc., it's really a steal. Good luck on any repairs that you may have. www.eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp
Thank you very much it helped me a lot..... you receive donations
jose gonzalez thank you very much Jose and glad you found the videos helpful.
sir I have a question, I followed all your instructions and tested the hoses and they had no leak, the relay air pump combi valve, the solenioed valve and cleaned the manifold because it was clogged, and it is still showing the code P0411. Do you think the oxygen sensor upstream might be bad and showing the faulty code P0411? Because the rest of the system works good. Thank you.
Very possible as the sensor may be a little sluggish although could
still work to provide fuel trims that are reasonable. Since you're sure
the the air injection system is working and the O2 sensor looks at the
lean exhaust provided by the air pump, then you could take a look at the
O2 sensor on a scanner or scope to see how it's doing.
Thank you sir
Hey sir I love the way your prepared I have a question will u email me ur diagram u made I’m putting the two big hoses n valve I just need to know I do it right I Lear a lot from ur viedos thanks a lot ur smart man
Hi Matthew! If you're talking about the wiring diagrams, I don't have the car anymore or the diagrams. But you can get the exact ones that I used located here. www.eautorepair.net
Hi Stuzman i have a 2004 gti 1.8t with the code p0414 secondary air injector system switching valve A circuit shorted all the fuses look ok and the 100 relay works too, bridge the air pump and looks like it works but I never heard it in the morning or ever when the car is cold everything looks connected the right way, idk where else to look thanks in advance.
Hi bart..It appears that your vehicle uses an optical sensor located inside the pump which the PCM monitors. A scope would be very helpful to monitor these pulses although you may not have one. Here is a website which can provide some insight to your issue.... www.datsc.com/tabid/122/OBD-Error-Code/P0414/Diagnostics/Volkswagen/Default.aspx
stuzman52 thanks again, you think I should replace the air pump?
bart esp For me, I would check the circuit to see what the optical sensor is doing. The pump could be pretty expensive and I wouldn't like to just change a part on a guess especially when it costs a fair amount of money. Check the connector, its terminals, etc. and maybe get one out of a junk yard. I'll have to leave the replacement of the pump to you.
I have a bad pump full of water so I replaced that and combination valve yet I still get 0411 and pump runs now 2006 MK5 Jetta 2.5. Does MAP sensor control the operation?
The PCM uses the upstream O2 sensor to check the pump's operation. When the pump is running, the O2 sensor will detect a lean condition. If you've got a scanner with graphing capabilities or better yet a scope, you should see that.
I already put some new spark plugs and ignition coil. Still have the same problem
Code :
Random/Multiple Cylindre Misfire Detected
P0300 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
p0302 - 008
It is not dripping coolant by the spark plugs, I mean they are dry (As it should be)
Audi 2004 A4 Quattro 2004 1.8
OK. I'm stumped. I can't seem to get my SAI pump to turn on. I replaced my combi valve and secondary air pump. I checked all the fuses on top of the battery and in the door jam. I replaced relay 100 in the engine compartment. I jumped the relay like you show to turn the pump on and it ran. However when I start the car in the morning it does not turn on. Any insights on what else I could test or try?
It sounds like the ECM is not turning on the relay for the relay. Either there's a problem with that wire going back to the ECM, or maybe you have inspection monitors that haven't run preventing the ECM from turning on the relay. Good luck on what you find!
@@stuzman52 Thank you for the reply. I guess the new SAI pump was working but the new one was so quiet. All is good and it passed inspection. Thank you for your very well done, detailed videos.
@@wizbang16 You're welcome and glad it all worked out!
What happens when you don't put the relay back in? My pump was running and draining the battery, I took out the 373 relay and it stopped, jumped it and it turned on, put back the relay and the pump started again and did not shut down? I want to know if I can drive it without the relay without causing issues. The check engine light came on when I took the relay out. I have a 99 VW Passat, it is manual. The car takes a little time to crank like the battery is dying. I plan on taking it to a shop weekend but wanted to know if I could drive it five miles to work and back before then. Thanks in advance
+Thuli Buthelezi There won't be any issue other than the check engine light will be one as you mentioned. Sounds like you've got a bad relay where the contact is welded closed. Did you replace the relay?
+stuzman52 Thank you for the quick response. I have not, I will stop at an auto zone and replace it and let you know if that fixed the issue. Thanks again.
+Thuli Buthelezi Thanks for all your help, didn't get around to posting later, it was just the relay, I got it at the dealer for $36 and the problem stopped!
Thanks for dropping in and letting us know that the relay was your issue. Glad to hear that it all worked out.
Hello Sir
I have a quick question as I'm currently dogging this issue also. Is there supposed to be 12 volts at the Secondary Air Solenoid when the car key is in the on position? Or,, is it only supposed to come on when the Pump kicks on? Thnx for helping understand this system with your videos.
Alberto
+Alberto Cordero Had to check the wiring diagrams to be sure that I gave you the correct answer. The +12V does not come through the ignition switch. It's hot all the time, but this +12V comes through the fuel pump relay contact. So, there is +12V to the fuel pump relay coil when you first open the driver door, (fuel pump relay comes on for about one second), or when the engine is running which means the fuel pump relay stays closed supplying +12V to the secondary air injection solenoid. The negative side of the solenoid comes from the PCM which gets activated when the engine is first started from a cold start or for a few seconds while you're driving. It does this while driving to check the system operation. That's why I pulled a couple of fuses to supply my own +12V since I didn't want the car running while I was testing this solenoid.
+stuzman52 Great information once again sir. I highly appreciate the time you have taken to help the common folk keep our little Vdubs on the road. I really enjoy the fact that I can work on this car myself with a little common sense and little shared knowledge. You'll hear from me again posting my findings with my situation. Thnx again
+Alberto Cordero Always glad to help and hope you get your vehicle issue take care of. Good luck with your repair.
+stuzman52
Hello Sir
Wanted to post my findings for you.
Keep in mind that the issue I'm having is with a 2000 VW Beetle 2.0L so things may differ.
I checked as you stated for voltage at the Secondary Air Solenoid on start up and sure $h!t it was there.
However the only way I was able to identify it was by manually grounding pin 2 on the connector to the Secondary Air Solenoid. When left in its normal operation i never got the correct voltage, only what seems to be a little stray voltage not nearly enough to trigger the Secondary Air Solenoid.
I have the Ebahn Bently and I believe it states that pin 2 goes to the T80 connector into pin 3. However I find that its in fact goes to pin 19. At this point pin locations aside I've done my testing to make sure that pin is in good working order and I even managed to acquire a spare PCM thinking the original wasn't firing correctly and it still did the same nothing. Lost at this point. Cant quite figure my way out of this box today.
Any help would be great. Even a lead to a good set of wiring schematics like the one in your video would be great as the Bently I fear is wrong.
Thnx in advance Sir.
Go to www.bbbind.com and click on 'Technical Information', then on 'TSB's & Wiring Diagrams'. From there, fill out the short form. Don't worry, it's free and then navigate to your year and make. You should see the factory diagrams for your car. The diagrams that I used are from Mitchell and you'll have to pay for a subscription. I believe it's about $26 for a year. Not a bad price if you want to use that style of diagrams which are redrawn from the factory ones. Good luck on what you find!
hey I hit a bump on a dirt road which caused a check engine light and po411 code for the secondary air injector and think it could just be a connection problem since the bump caused it... any advice?
+Corey Hanks Sounds like a loose connection. Your guess is good as mine of where it could be though.
I have a 2001 VW Jetta VR6. I am getting the EPS light and check engine light. I keep blowing fuse 43. If we remove the relay (100) the fuse does not blow and the dash lights go off. As soon as I drive the car off the fuse blows and the dash lights go on (EPS and stability) My hubby and I determined that there is an intermittent short somewhere beyond the relay (100) but we don't know how to find the short. Can you help?
Carolyn, there are several circuits on Fuse 43 such as O2 heaters, MAF, purge valve, leak detection pump and air injection pump. Relay 100 only feeds the air injection pump. So, when you pulled the relay, all the other circuits are okay since the fuse didn't blow. When you installed the relay and when it gets energized, the air injection pump has to have a problem such as being seized or pulling an excessive amount of current. Focus on the pump and see what you can determine. Good luck on your repair!
@@stuzman52 I tested the air pump by jumping the relay. It worked fine..Therefore the problem has to be past the 2nd air pump. Now how do I determine if its a solenoid, relay or ... I got a bunch of codes.. P0445. Said: Indicated that the evaporative emission system purge control valve electrical circuit was shorted for a predetermined period of time. Other codes:
P1472
P0037
P0414 (secondary Air injection switching valve A circuit shorted
P0418
P0102
P1142
P0141
P0031
Thank you so much for helping me.
Carolyn Greenfield The air pump is the only thing shown on the wiring diagram. What does your wiring diagram show and what is the amperage of the pump when it was running? And I wouldn’t worry about those codes as this will happen when those devices loose power when the fuse blows. Also, you mentioned in your first post that the fuse did not blow when relay 100 was pulled. This eliminates all the items you mentioned such as solenoids, etc.
@@stuzman52 ok. Will get the voltage meter out and test. I bought the car for $400 and trying to get those dash lights to go off! Will let you know.. p.s. I don't have a wiring diagram. Don't even have an owner's manual. 2001 GLX VR6
@@carolyngreenfield3090 Pretty tough working on an electrical problem and not having any diagrams. Here is a link to free wiring diagrams. www.bbbind.com/tsb-wiring-diagrams/ Fill out the short form and you should get the wiring diagrams for you car. The reason I mentioned about the amperage on the secondary motor is that because it runs doesn't mean it's okay. You could be pulling high amperage and the fuse won't blow right away as the fuse has time delay characteristics. If you have an amp clamp, it would make it easy checking those amps and watching it for a little while to see what it does. For $400 dollars, you got a pretty good deal if the mechanical is in good shape. Good luck on finding the issue.
2001 vw jetta i have my 100 and 428 replay swaped wich is the right order from left to right relays
Not sure what you're saying Mony... sorry...
can you tell me why my jetta positive terminal gets really warm? I have changed the fuse box on the battery, the positive & neg terminals and wires, I ran a new 4gauge wire to the alternator, I checked the resistance of the frame, engine block and the alternator, dont go above 0.5, so I am freaking stumped to hell and back. I have wired the fans with a inline 40 amp fuse. The positive cable gets really warm when the car has a large load on it, like when I am driving on a hot night with the AC on max and the lights on bright and the radio blasting. I have tried everything and I cannot find out what is causing the damn positive cable and terminal getting hot.
You don't want to use an ohmmeter to check the resistance of a wire or cable. You want to do a voltage drop across the cable that you're interested in with the current going through it. So, turn on your a/c, high beam head lights and the radio. You didn't mention about the radio as if it's been upgraded to a high output which will cause a lot of current to flow. Then put your voltmeter across the cable with the current flowing and see what your voltage drop is. It should be under 0.3VDC. Also, you may want to put a current clamp on the cable to see how much current is being drawn.
@@stuzman52 thanks a bunch!! I'll do that when I get back home this evening and see what I find out. Yes the stereo had been replaced with a aftermarket boss when I got the car. I didn't figure it would cause any complications because I have the higher voltage bosch alternator in my vehicle. One thing I noticed when troubleshooting was that the battery is only getting about 12.9 to 13.1 volts even when there is very little load on the battery. Could it be possible that the alternator is shot and causing the cables to heat up? I'll check the voltage drop within the hour.
should you be able to hear the air pump when you start the engine
Yes, it is pretty loud and you'll hear it when the engine is started from a cold start for about 30 seconds or so. All this info is in the video series. Once the engine has warmed up, you won't hear it anymore, but the computer will still cycle it off and on during running to do a system check on it.
Hey about the secondary air injection. The comby valve has a small tube vacuum line do it sucks air to the injection solenoid or the injection solenoid has to blows air to the comby valve. I have vacuum that suck air to injection solenoid what direction vacuum goes..
+vang yang The combi valve receives a vacuum from the injection air solenoid for it to open. The computer is responsible for energizing the solenoid valve and is PWM controlled. Therefore, the solenoid can vary the amount of vacuum to the combi valve.
+stuzman52
I have find the problems my head cylinder don't have the air injection port. And every time the pump is pumping air has a leak from the back header exhaust. So is there any way I can bypass this.
+vang yang Nothing that I'm aware of to bypass the secondary system. If so, you'll probably have to retune the program to let the computer the system wouldn't be there.
+stuzman52 thanks for the quick question
+stuzman52 but if I can do a monification a flex metal hose that connect to the combi valve and welt to the down pipe before the 02 sensor would that would read the air injection. Could that be my experience to see if that would make my check engine light goes off.
What are the effects of this not working properly? Thank you
Hi Zalem. You probably won't notice any difference at all in the running of the engine. But your check engine light will come on signifying that there is an issue with the air injection system.
Oh.ok thank you for reply.....I have that code p1296 and p411 on a cabrio ..but car start but after like two seconds turns off... it was running just fine..really frustrating
zalem molina Hi Zalem. Since you have a P1296 code, cooling system malfunction, I would focus on this code first. Take a look at your coolant temp sensor and its circuit for a malfunction. It's quite possible that this sensor could be causing your issue of the engine shutting off. The sensor could fail causing a rich or lean condition. And you may find that the P411 is related to the P1296 code. In other words, when you fix the P1296 issue, the other code may go away on its own.
Man I need your help, My mind is blown.. What should I do?
Backstory- I got a 2005 altima & Im trying to change the map light bulb & it wont light for anything.. I'm new to
electronics , bought all the tools & even set up a circuit for practice. anyway..
The car directions say disconnect negative battery before changing bulb.. I was too lazy & several blown fuses later
I can't get the map light to light.. the dome light is fine as well as all the other lights but the map light is a no go..
What I've done
1.disconected the whole assembley & gave it 12 volts via power probe & everything works fine with several different
led bulbs, tried the on & off & switch & it works.. I front probed the connector & gave it ground & power & I also
tried the lights themselves & they all lit up..
2.Tested the connector coming from the car via load pro & mutimeter & I get 12 volts...
3. connected the assembley & connecter together & it wont light..
4..backprobed connector & I get 12 volts while in use but no light... tested for ground & positive & I have both...
tested bulb while its in the contacts with ground & positive in the metal casing & bulb also has 12volts but doesn't
light
5.tried the switch & it turned everything on & off as far as power but no light... also wiggled the wires &
connectors & nothing
6.took light sandpaper and clean the contact points & used electronic cleaner & no light..
7. Checked all fuses & via power probe & they all seem to be fine..
I'm lost.. Help!!
1) Take the map bulb out of its connector. 2) Take a test light and put across the connector terminals. 3) The test light probably will not light. 4) Take the test light and hook to a known good B+ point. 5) Take the probe of the test light and connect to ground of the map connector. 6) Does it light? If so, the issue is on the B+ side of the connector. If it doesn't light, the issue on the ground side. 7) At this point since you've checked the fuses and you say they're good, you'll need a wiring diagram to further your diagnostics.
Yeah I used a test light all over that thing & I both got a green light for ground & a red light for positive... even tested the bulb itself while it was in contacts.. the side of the bulb was red & the end was green...
I'm going to try everything again today including testing connector.. Its not important as its a map light but a nice project for me to learn from
When I mentioned about a test light, use one that has an incandescent light bulb. Most of them pulls around 220mA. It sounds like you're using a LED test light which uses very little current. Even when you have a high resistance such as in one of your wires, those LEDs will still come on. So, get a light that draws a little current and I suspect you will see that the incandescent light bulb won't come on or will be very dim.
Do you have any videos that is similar to my problem? link? led vs incandescent test light demonstration against a compromised circuit? link?
I don't have any videos that illustrates your problem. Here is a link to another channel which demonstrates the differences in current between the two different types of test lights. He doesn't favor the LED test light either for testing purposes. Personally, I never use the LED test light as the current draw is to small. I always use incandescent test lights for all of my testing.
Do you know if a 1993 vw corrado has one a does?
Has a what???
A secondary air pump.
Have P0411. Put gloves on exhaust. With car off, put Jumper across SAI relay N/O contacts. Air pump started. Gloves not inflated. Put 25 inches of vacuum from hand pump to combi valve. Vacuum holds on combi valve diaphragm and gloves inflate. Put vacuum tester on vacuum output of SAI solenoid. Used 4 jumper wires to connect SAI relay outside of socket. connected voltmeter from motor terminal to ground to monitor when motor starts and to test relay. Started engine. SAI motor voltage 13vdc. Monitored vacuum, pulling around 20 inches of vacuum and steady. Watched vacuum for around 90 seconds. ECM cutoff solenoid and vacuum went to zero. Looks like SAI system is working properly and SAI monitor is complete, but have p0411 and EVAP system monitor incomplete. Also when car is filled up with gas it is hard to start. Always filled up the same way, stopped when gas pump cuts off the first time and never had problem before. N80 purge valve was changed July 2013. Can the EVAP system effect the SAI system or the other way around? Any ideas what is going on to cause the EVAP monitor not to come ready? Thanks.
Alright, it sounds like you did a pretty good job of troubleshooting the SAI system. And just to make it clear to myself, you did allow the computer to turn everything on to make sure the relay and air injection solenoid came on with the computer. If I read your message correctly, it sounds like you did. Just clarify that to make sure. If so, then the system sounds like it's working. To verify that the system is working, the computer looks at the O2 sensor to see if it goes lean during the startup of the pump because of the extra oxygen being pumped across it. At this point, that's the only thing that's left. So, get a scanner on the car and monitor the fuel trim numbers, specifically the short term during this startup procedure. Or you can monitor the O2 sensor with the scanner and see how it's reacting. I take it that you don't have a code for your EVAP system. But in the past, you did because of changing the purge valve. It's possible that this system is still not working because of another fault. Take a closer look at your O2 sensor and see how it's reacting. You can also use propane to monitor your fuel trims and/or create a vacuum leak to see the same results, but with an opposite effect on your fuel trims. I'm not sure what will keep the EVAP monitor from running, but if there is a fault, it won't run. I'm not sure about the details of what needs to be in working condition before this monitor will run. Take a look in the service manual to see what components has to be working before this system will run. And it could be quite possible that the two faults could be related. Just on an educated guess, it sounds like the two faults are related.
Thanks for the reply. Yes the computer was in control of the SAI relay and solenoid while I monitored them with a volt meter and a mini vacuum gauge. Everything checked out and performed as in your videos. Also the SAI monitor is in the complete or ready state.
No EVAP codes, but that hard to start after fillup has me wondering if it connected to the P0411 that won't reset and the EVAP monitor not ready, even though SAI is ready. I'm gone to pull the purge solenoid valve off the car and check it to see if it is operating normally. The old one I replaced was definitely bad as I did get a code (something about a small leak) and could not blow through it with the coil energized. The replacement one I could, which is the one that is in there now. Could have gone bad I suppose. Will check it out tomorrow.
Yes, I would start to check over the EVAP system at this point and probably a good place to start is with your purge valve. Here's my theory of what's going on. The purge valve is slightly open when it should be closed while being de-energized. At startup, you're getting a richer mixture because of the slightly open valve. This could explain your hard starting. Also, during this time, the SAI system is running, but the O2 sensor is looking for a lean condition, but because of a richer mixture, (purge valve open), the O2 is reading rich and that throws up your P0410. That's how I can see how the EVAP system can create both of these problems for you. Probably one system depends on the other. In other words, if one test fails, then the other is not going to run. The service manual would explain more of this. As mentioned, a scan tool could confirm the richer condition at startup. Hope you find out what's going on and let us know what you find. Sounds like an interesting issue, and it sounds like you're on the right track.
Couldn't get to it today but will check out purge solenoid operation and monitor O2 sensor output on startup. Your explanation of what might be going on sounds quite plausible. Will let you know, thanks again.
stuzman52 I hooked up the scanner to read data. After starting the engine noticed STFT was 0.0 and did not change on acceleration. Fuel system was in a open state and O2 fixed at .45v. All monitors were ready, but now had a EVAP code P0455 and still the SAI code of P0411. Shut engine and removed purge solenoid. could blow straight through it with no air flow resistance in de-energized state. This part was replaced last July. Rapped it a few times against a wood board and now no air flowed through it. Energized it with battery voltage and air flowed freely. Kept blowing while touching jumper to battery and removing. Air was flowing correctly now only when energized. Put purge solenoid back in car and now data showed fuel system closed and STFT varying from -25 to around -6. O2 was working also around .15 at idle. Did not reset codes, will let computer do it, as I wanted the monitors ready. Thanks again for all your help, you really know your stuff and nailed this one.
i jumped the relay slot and it came on. when I put the relay in and started the car I couldn't hear the air pump.
Is the engine warmed? If so, maybe the computer doesn't want to turn it on now. Check the coil voltage for the relay to verify. If you've got voltage, then it's a bad relay. If not, check the B+. If it's not there, then maybe a blown fuse. Pretty simple circuit to troubleshoot. You can also use a test light to verify all of the above. You should be able to follow the wiring diagrams in this video series as I covered the diagrams in depth. Good luck on what you find!
Ok thanks. Great video's, you should win an award for the series.
Not likely to win any rewards, but I appreciate the thought :)
wonder if my relay is bad
Just told you Todd how to check it.
I have this same problem on my 2006 Audi a8. I don't even know where to start hahah.
alvaro hernandez basically there are 4 main things to check. There is a solenoid , there is a valve, there is the air pump, and there are air hoses and vacuum lines that connect everything together. First inspect all the lines and hoses for broken spots. Easiest/cheapest thing to do next is replace the solenoid. If that doesn’t work, it’s probably the valve or the pump that’s giving you trouble. Find a way to diagnose the pump and see if it turns on at the right time. Same thing with the valve. Or you could start replacing parts and figure it out that way ($$$)
I had this problem (code P0411) on my 2000 VW, I had a few broken hoses that I fixed, didn’t fix the problem. I found all the part numbers I needed and found cheap parts online (new parts were crazy expensive) I bought a used valve and a used solenoid for cheap, and after I replaced the solenoid It was good to go. Paid $11 on eBay but I had to pull the bumper off to get to it.
@@tylerbeard4092 im thinking of getting the air pump, selenoid, and valve. Im confused with the valve. when i search for the valve, i get two different valves. I trying to find out if their is more then one valve or just one. I need to resolve this quickly cause my engine is running kinda hot. i think since their is an imbalance with the air /fuel mixture its cause my engine to run hot and thats not good at all. Also, the fuse and relay to the air pump needs to be changed as well right? i dont even know where thats located in my car.
alvaro hernandez sorry I don’t know much about your car. Maybe you can join a forum for Audi cars online? I get a lot of help for my VWs on vwvortex. I’m sure someone has had the same problems you are having. They can probably tell you how to check it and how to fix it
For ac work
kombi valve needed to be replaced
Glad to hear that you got it all iron out!
What is a good quality gauge set to buy
Sorry for the delay James as TH-cam did not contact me. I would say something around 50-60 dollars should be a fairly good set of gauges for starting out. Look on Amazon and see what they have.