So glad we got a smooth criminal like this geezer giving us tips for the trade 27 years of age and 12 years into the game and still learning and enjoying it Big up the plumb bwoiiis Safee
Got my NVQ level 2 in plumbing but it was a full time course of 2 days!!.. completed it in 2 years at age of 18 but couldn't get apprenticeship to do NVQ level 3. Now 15 years later want to get back into it. But will need to start from scratch probably do a refresher course too. Top video
Haha, when I was an apprentice, my mentor threw me a lump hammer and a chisel to chase in the kitchen hot and cold on the fisrt fixes. I realised until months later he had an angle grinder and sds chisel in his van that he used when he had to do it.
Would you worry as much about the screed eating the pipe if you used plastic pipe in the wall cavity? Also would you still need to insulate the pipe if it's barrier pipe??
About to renovate shower room. Need to bury hot/cold feeds. Probably gonna use the gaffer tape trick then use some bonding to cover before tiling over. Wish me luck!
Cool video as usual , but tell for copper pipes in concrete they to use a sticky tape call demzo or is that a thing of past or am showing my age and also in US they just put plastic sleeve on top of copper pipes is that something we can do in UK?
I just bought a Worcester 38cdi and I'm fitting it to my bungalow. Massive open loft and I'm laying all the radiator pipework down myself. Your videos have been very helpful mate :) ... (was all storage radiators, so its an easy, brand new fit)
Hi mate, great vid. Quick question, I have chased two pipes in the wall like this, but not as deep, chased about 20mm depth out and about 40-50 mm wide and installed 10mm pipe. Can I clip them and tape them with gaffa like in this vid and just plaster over or should spray small amount of foam over pipes before plaster.. Thanks
ayla un yep....Approved Document A (structure) states max depth of 1/3 of the masonry so for 100mm block 33mm depth chase. Vertical chases to be 1/6 the depth, so 16mm. That’s the Regs. Period houses have plaster depth of 25mm usually and modern homes have plaster dabs at varying thickness, max 25mm.
Hey, I paid a plumber £5k to install new boiler and radiators (not supplied by them). They have chased plastic pipes into the walls and said it's the best option (due to expansion) but they also haven't insulated them and currently they aren't flush. The quote says they wouldn't 'fill in' the chases but surely they should be insulating them and ensuring they're flush?
I’ve got a newly qualified plumber re re routing my kitchen pipes. I would like the hot and cold pipes chased into one of the walls . He’s trying to tell me the walls are too brittle to do this. Is he spinning me a line and just doesn’t want to do it. It’s thermalite block behind my plaster board
Could you do the same with poly pipe? Also could it be done so that the pipes come from the wall above the skirting? I need to move a radiator and it is going onto a wall where there is parquet flooring and really don’t want to disturb it if I don’t have to. Any help greatly received
Hi mate great video I'm.not a plumber can you shed some light and what I'd be looking at if I done the chasing (firmer brickie who does odd jobs ) for 2 rad pipes 2 water supply pipes for sink and if allowed a gas pipe to be put into a recess for a clean finish ? Thanks
Very informative videos. Need a little help if possible. I am currently in the process of doing my kitchen. The cold water feed is in this room so will supply everything then go upstairs and hot water will come from upstairs down to for sink ect. I planned to do exactly as you have and chase the wall out for the pipes. I was going to use 15mm copper can I use the exact same method as you have using insulation ect or does it need to be done different as it is hot and cold water? Thank you
Help! I bought 2 flexible pipes that have that skinny m10 end for kitchen taps but my taps are a bigger(maybe 1/2") male end not female. Can I buy something to adapt them?? I need it to look like the wider female bit at both ends. I would just buy one but mine are 120 long and can't find something that long in wickes
When chasing pipes in, are new pipes required or can existing pipes be used? Also what about when re-plastering the room anyway? Looking at purchasing a property with back boiler and pipes on show so trying to figure out how much needs spending!
Great vid! About to do the same job with a single pipe c/w supply to the loo cistern. Is it OK to fill the channel around the pipe with expanding foam, instead of render. Does it effect the copper pipes? It's going to be tiled over, so doesn't need a plaster finish.
I would have chisseled out closer to the corner if some one wants to hang a picture it's looks like they might drill in to pipe depending on fixing, good job asusall 👍🏽
Please be aware the correct method for wrapping pipes in screeds and plastered walls is to wrap them in Denzo tape when advising other non plumbing professionals , as the content of either gypsum or cement will corrode any copper pipe work .please note I am a plumbing lecturer and have been a gas engineer for over 30 years.
I accidentally drilled through a copper water line in my 1946 year double brick house. The pipes are located in a chased channel filled with cement based mortar/plaster. When I removed bricks and mortar to expose damaged fragment the copper pipe was like installed yesterday with no any corrosion. May be Australian cement is different, I don't know....
Correct. Well it's not the pipe which is the problem. It's the fittings. Pipes should be removable at both ends under a floor screed So he could have done this using only a bender
hi, i want to have wall mounted showers in my bathroom, the wall is a cavity wall and its the supporting wall. is it possible to trace pipe work on such wall or i have to build false wall? thanks
James if you have to use copper you could always use 15mm Wico and nail clips you wouldn’t need to chase so deep.Maybe your using lagging because of expansion in the central heating pipes love to hear your opinion.
hi, im currently renovating my house, im going to fit a combi in the loft and re pipe the house, i noticed my friends new build is piped in 10mm plastic is this ok or should i use 15mm plastic, im going to chase it in the wall also, its a 4 bed house and its in microbore at the minute, love your how to's they are very helpful. thanks
Hi there. You can use 10mm plastic if it makes it easier to hide in the wall. However always try to use 15mm if you can! Especially on runs of more than one radiator. After three rads on a single run you need to use 22mm. Good luck mate! SUBSCRIBE! ➡️👉 th-cam.com/users/plumberparts 👈⬅️ IF YOU HAVEN'T ALREADY! 😎
Howdy, I was wondering what your opinion was on having exposed copper pipes in the bathroom. I want to do up my bathroom, take out the bath tub and put in a walk in shower. But I don't want the to break or chisel down the wall just to hide pipes, I just don't want them to damage the brick or concrete or destroy the wall. So I was thinking of just extending the pipes from the bathtub which is removed, having exposed copper pipes and just putting shower and tap fittings. I heard that lather can be applied in order to keep the copper pipes looking great. I am not sure if they make plastic coverings that clip on like the ones they make for electrical cables to hides tv cords , so you don't have to chisel down the wall. What's your opinion?
For my shower, I have concealed pipes into a solid wall. My builder didn't do a good job which made the tiles crack and pop out of the wall. Now having to do it again! The pipe is plastic coming from floor to the control valve. Then copper pipe from control valve to shower head. Does it only need insulation on copper pipe and also the plastic?
Something you might have not known but "Duct trap" has metal in it which in the long run will cause electrolysis with the copper, Some inspectors in Canada wont pass.
I certainly didn't know that! But aluminium is less noble than copper so I don't think it would really be anything to worry about even if the % Al in the tape were not negligible. Maybe a chemist can advise.
Loving your plumbing videos! I could almost contemplate chasing my own pipes in.. however they do at least give me an idea of how the work should be done (insulated etc). Am now looking for a local plumber to do the work. If I was tackling exactly the same task as in this video (including the chasing out, pipe laying, insulation and radiator installation (already purchased) - could anyone give me an estimate of a 'reasonable quote'?
i just had some plumbing work done . simpler to the video you just shared but i noticed that theres a considerable amount of heat coming thru the wall. is that normal
Is it the same principle when using plastic push fit pipes? Does it still need protection from the screed and plaster? Just subbed. Great Chanel. Thanks
wouldn't it be better to hang and position the radiator before soldering the vertical sections which go into the valves? How can you be sure that your short vertical pipes will go exactly into the radiator valves?
nice work it should be better if you chisel the wall on the left hand side better then the middle just in case if they want to hung something in the wall they hit your pipe
Nice video mate, being a plumber/gas trainee, you've given me some great tips. Funnily enough I was doing this in my kitchen and 40mm down in the screened floor was the heating pipe, 10mm down more was my cold water main! What's the chances of that haha. Keep up the good work! Hold tight
So do you have 100% guaranty you will not have a leak and having to take the insulation to mend the leak?? Test first and then insulate and tape pipes??!!
Like your vids mate but not sold on this one I'm afraid! You used to have to cover copper in walls due to lime in plaster which eats into copper, that is no longer the case. With the insulation the plaster is guaranteed to crack. better option in my opinion is to use plastic pipe, but either way spray with expanding foam then plaster on top a much firmer backing for plaster, prevents material getting to pipes and insulates
Hi there, it's great you live our videos! I've personally never had a problem with any of the methods as long as you've got a nice deep chase. But we'll see!!! Many thanks, PP!
Geeza as always top vid would have looked amazing if pipes came out of the wall instead of the floor. Can you do a vid on under floor heating does and don't.
Great vid, terrible signing! Less tricky if you apply the duct tape before offering the pipes up to the wall though. My need for watching the vid was to see how you finish the holes from the floor to the rad,
Do you just fill the wall now with some 'cement' type substance or would you pre-fill some of it with that foamy stuff first? It must be a hell of a job to fill in, and then plaster?
Cement and skim. Some use newspaper to protect the pipes. Or fixer foam to fill the gap, cut back and skim. SUBSCRIBE! ➡️👉 th-cam.com/users/plumberparts 👈⬅️ IF YOU HAVEN'T ALREADY! 😎 Reply ·
So ar people paying for this kind of work in the UK? Im a plumber to, I mean, you are using copper, soldering it and works with a angle grinder. Here in The Netherlands we will work with alupex tube and a wall cutter, we can arrange this job within one hour without the use of a pipe bender and soldering materials. And you can chase alupex directly in the wall without any use off protection just plaster. So it will be much cheaper. Dont you guys use this in the UK? Please let me know.
I'm having a vertical radiator installed on my wall, the corgi who came to install it chased up the sides of the chimney breast where I am having it installed but he didn't pin the pipes to the wall. I meant to be having plaster boarding over the chimney breast but was he meant to pin these pipes? He just wrapped the pipes in black tape I guess to insulate them? Is the plasterer meant to pin these pipes or was the corgi meant to do that?
@@gooffey81 Hi Stephen thanks for this. My plumber has ripped me off. We told him to install the radiator ready for the pipes to be boxed in, he now claims we didn't ask for a 1st fix and also claimed that he didn't need to pin them in. I am not sure what to do as I lost £260 over it. His pipe work looks good but then again just left these two long pipes dangling about with the TRV's attached. I may have to get another plumber out now to rectify it. He just installed it to the chimney breast as in not a first fix and made out that we didn't ask for a 1st fix when it's pretty clear that we are having plastering done. He insisted that the plasterer can just plaster around the pipes and doesn't need to pin them which won't work because the TRV valves won't sit flush when boarded in, (having them pinned in probably makes the plasterer life easier since he will then know where to board and plaster the pipe work) pipes should be coming out of the chase about another 2 or 3 inches for room to play with which been told by a plasterer that the pipes either side should of been longer for extra play when we come to mount the rad back on the wall, then cut the pipes to length to marry up with the rad valves. Just lazy shoddy work, should I report him? Now he wants £60 to come back out and refix the issues and then the rad comes off the wall, brackets ect to get it all boxed in with plasterboard. Then he wants another £85 to come back and remount the radiator, redrill screws for brackets, refit them and test the radiator again when it's already been tested.
Installing pipes to a radiator or plumbing appliances is all part of a first fix. Pipes should never be left loose. They should be clipped to a wall or knock over clips on joists. This can prevent the pipes from rattling..Sometimes they can get really loud when a heating system is running. The only reason to leave them loose on a first fix is to plaster behind them. I hope he's put cap ends on the TRVs (thermostatic radiator valve)? TRVs can open up when a heating system starts. That's how we go about every job. Good luck
A crack appeared later in the wall above as one half of the house moved away from the other due to the slot created by the plumber and the only thing retaining the houses together was the gaffer tape... 😆
most people dont either need them want them or cant afford them :/ but im certain the majority of viewers he has are trainee plumbers like myself scouting for apprenticeships.
Yeah Its a two way street, also for any would be apprentices out there, its a bit of a gamble taking an apprenticeship...never know if you're there to learn or be cheap labour.
I guess. its a bit of give and take. The employer needs to make money out of the apprentice and the apprentice needs to learn. It like we all say, they're useless for 6 months and then suddenly BAM it all clicks into place.
***** Tis true, + I think you get a good kick back for taking one on that should pay for them for six months of the year, worth looking into. Some are fucking amazing, some turn out to be brain dead numptys. Worth giving a 2 week trial on them though, for free ish as work exp through a college.
Nice video, but you used copper which will simply corrode and get pin hole leaks. How fast this happens depends on the kind of water. Could be 25 to 30 years. Could be 15. Might even be 40. It also depends on how thick the copper is and the Ph or how acid the water source is. Ask me how I know.. Now faced with a nightmare situation 20 years after home built, pin hole leaks are sprouted everywhere. The fix was supposed to be a water softer and a tank, but had that been done, it's annoying to keep it going, to keep adding chemicals and that costs money and it would break down too. Also we were not even warned we needed this with our water. So it started with sharkbites, but now more and more elbows are going. It will not get copper, but likely get PVC. Also the person who put the well pump in used pvc, and the other plumber used copper. Guess which pipes have no deterioration after 30 years on a 1987 home? Yep, all the pvc used from the well plumbing looks the same. I broke a pipe by having something heavy smash it. It was one repair. The inside of the pvc looked like new. All copper pipes are so thin they are like coke cans you can almost crumple with your fingers. As for insulation, that's nice, but the amount of loss in energy is negligible, and say it's 20 years from now, and they started leaking. Someone will have a nightmare on their hands. Thankfully it's not a larger home. As for what I drink both pipes are both supposedly ok (unless copper leeches out lead?), but I've always used a filter even though we have good tested water. The other thing is moldy dry wall isn't healthy either, and now that has to be changed... and it all could have been avoided by not using copper. Not trying to mess up your nice video, but I really have to wonder about copper, especially in certain places, if not all. Have to replace two ceilings now and a bit of carpeting too. You did a great job, it's just that it's that copper...
*Links to the tools I use everyday here:* www.amazon.co.uk/shop/plumberparts
Plus, follow my *Vlog “TimesWithJames”:* th-cam.com/users/timeswithjames
So glad we got a smooth criminal like this geezer giving us tips for the trade
27 years of age and 12 years into the game and still learning and enjoying it
Big up the plumb bwoiiis
Safee
Got my NVQ level 2 in plumbing but it was a full time course of 2 days!!.. completed it in 2 years at age of 18 but couldn't get apprenticeship to do NVQ level 3. Now 15 years later want to get back into it. But will need to start from scratch probably do a refresher course too. Top video
pvc pipe doesn't need insulation?
Could use expansion foam to insulate the pipes?🤔.
The way I chase pipes into a wall is in the Carry on 'arse slap' style, then chase them round the room and into the wall. Works every single time.
Haha, when I was an apprentice, my mentor threw me a lump hammer and a chisel to chase in the kitchen hot and cold on the fisrt fixes. I realised until months later he had an angle grinder and sds chisel in his van that he used when he had to do it.
Ouch - that's mean! Brutal for you and too stingy to buy a new angle grinder blade.
Great video! If I am using plastic pipe to bury into a wall for a shower do I need to insulate them? And where would I place the shut off valves?
Are 15mm pipes to much to plaster over if there just against red brick? Would it just crack the plaster further down the line
Would you worry as much about the screed eating the pipe if you used plastic pipe in the wall cavity? Also would you still need to insulate the pipe if it's barrier pipe??
I thought plastic was an obvious choice too
About to renovate shower room. Need to bury hot/cold feeds. Probably gonna use the gaffer tape trick then use some bonding to cover before tiling over. Wish me luck!
Same me mate!
Cool video as usual , but tell for copper pipes in concrete they to use a sticky tape call demzo or is that a thing of past or am showing my age and also in US they just put plastic sleeve on top of copper pipes is that something we can do in UK?
I just bought a Worcester 38cdi and I'm fitting it to my bungalow. Massive open loft and I'm laying all the radiator pipework down myself. Your videos have been very helpful mate :) ... (was all storage radiators, so its an easy, brand new fit)
Glad to help!
Can you chase plastic piping? If so, does it need protecting like the copper pipes?
Hi mate, great vid. Quick question, I have chased two pipes in the wall like this, but not as deep, chased about 20mm depth out and about 40-50 mm wide and installed 10mm pipe. Can I clip them and tape them with gaffa like in this vid and just plaster over or should spray small amount of foam over pipes before plaster..
Thanks
When so much of structure is cut doesn't it make the walls weak? I ask because plaster is only 10mm so you must be cutting brick/block.
ayla un yep....Approved Document A (structure) states max depth of 1/3 of the masonry so for 100mm block 33mm depth chase. Vertical chases to be 1/6 the depth, so 16mm. That’s the Regs.
Period houses have plaster depth of 25mm usually and modern homes have plaster dabs at varying thickness, max 25mm.
No James didn't worry as the gas leak he left blow the bulding up
Way too deep
Do you have link to the next vid, when your colleague screeds / fills over the pipe?
Hey, I paid a plumber £5k to install new boiler and radiators (not supplied by them). They have chased plastic pipes into the walls and said it's the best option (due to expansion) but they also haven't insulated them and currently they aren't flush. The quote says they wouldn't 'fill in' the chases but surely they should be insulating them and ensuring they're flush?
I've seen some plumbers use white pvc pipes and chasing it in. Is that ok to do instead of copper pipes?
Do solvent weld wastepipes need sleeving/protecting when burying in screed?
No it's plastic. The reason for taping the pipes in the video is that concrete or plaster corrodes the copper over a period of time
I'm looking at doing this in my house. Will a double skimmed brick wall in a victorian house be deep enough gouge out a decent chase for them?
I’ve got a newly qualified plumber re re routing my kitchen pipes. I would like the hot and cold pipes chased into one of the walls . He’s trying to tell me the walls are too brittle to do this. Is he spinning me a line and just doesn’t want to do it. It’s thermalite block behind my plaster board
What are the options if the pipe coming out of the wall are not long enough for the new shower?
Red rawel plugs are for sparkies!!
Could you do the same with poly pipe? Also could it be done so that the pipes come from the wall above the skirting? I need to move a radiator and it is going onto a wall where there is parquet flooring and really don’t want to disturb it if I don’t have to. Any help greatly received
Any reason you didn’t or wouldn’t use Speedfit pipes ?
Hi mate great video I'm.not a plumber can you shed some light and what I'd be looking at if I done the chasing (firmer brickie who does odd jobs ) for 2 rad pipes 2 water supply pipes for sink and if allowed a gas pipe to be put into a recess for a clean finish ? Thanks
Very informative videos. Need a little help if possible. I am currently in the process of doing my kitchen. The cold water feed is in this room so will supply everything then go upstairs and hot water will come from upstairs down to for sink ect. I planned to do exactly as you have and chase the wall out for the pipes. I was going to use 15mm copper can I use the exact same method as you have using insulation ect or does it need to be done different as it is hot and cold water? Thank you
Help! I bought 2 flexible pipes that have that skinny m10 end for kitchen taps but my taps are a bigger(maybe 1/2") male end not female. Can I buy something to adapt them?? I need it to look like the wider female bit at both ends. I would just buy one but mine are 120 long and can't find something that long in wickes
Can you not use a roll of plastic save on potential joints /leaks ?? Would it be OK with render ??
Brilliant video mate. Exactly what I was looking for.
When chasing pipes in, are new pipes required or can existing pipes be used? Also what about when re-plastering the room anyway? Looking at purchasing a property with back boiler and pipes on show so trying to figure out how much needs spending!
Great vid! About to do the same job with a single pipe c/w supply to the loo cistern. Is it OK to fill the channel around the pipe with expanding foam, instead of render. Does it effect the copper pipes? It's going to be tiled over, so doesn't need a plaster finish.
Quick question about insulation, why 15/13 and not 15/9? it's more compact, does the same thing and it's cheaper:)
So this tape you stick on, would it’s condition change due to the pipes getting hot, and how long can it last with the pipes?
Outside Wall You Must Have Mild Winters. This Would Be A Freezing Problem In Northern Climates Even With Glycol. Nice Work!
Cheers!
I would have chisseled out closer to the corner if some one wants to hang a picture it's looks like they might drill in to pipe depending on fixing, good job asusall 👍🏽
Please be aware the correct method for wrapping pipes in screeds and plastered walls is to wrap them in Denzo tape when advising other non plumbing professionals , as the content of either gypsum or cement will corrode any copper pipe work .please note I am a plumbing lecturer and have been a gas engineer for over 30 years.
+James Hemsworth Hi James, thanks for your comment!
Sub here please>> th-cam.com/users/plumberparts
+1. Been to a few pinhole callouts where pipework under screed was wrapped in gaffa lol. Flooring ruined, nice big bill.
I accidentally drilled through a copper water line in my 1946 year double brick house. The pipes are located in a chased channel filled with cement based mortar/plaster.
When I removed bricks and mortar to expose damaged fragment the copper pipe was like installed yesterday with no any corrosion.
May be Australian cement is different, I don't know....
Was there a reason for not chasing the horizontal runs of pipes into the wall?
These vids are so good I might cancel my Netflix subscription
So good looking
I didn’t think regs allow for screeding over pipes any more. I thought everything has to be ducted or boxed in?
Correct. Well it's not the pipe which is the problem. It's the fittings.
Pipes should be removable at both ends under a floor screed
So he could have done this using only a bender
hi, i want to have wall mounted showers in my bathroom, the wall is a cavity wall and its the supporting wall. is it possible to trace pipe work on such wall or i have to build false wall? thanks
+ice lam Should be fine. Just make a channel in the cavity, install your pipework then cover and seal as normal.
James if you have to use copper you could always use 15mm Wico and nail clips you wouldn’t need to chase so deep.Maybe your using lagging because of expansion in the central heating pipes love to hear your opinion.
Hi mate Can u please tell where or how I can get a 6mm bore flexi tap tails
hi, im currently renovating my house, im going to fit a combi in the loft and re pipe the house, i noticed my friends new build is piped in 10mm plastic is this ok or should i use 15mm plastic, im going to chase it in the wall also, its a 4 bed house and its in microbore at the minute, love your how to's they are very helpful. thanks
Hi there. You can use 10mm plastic if it makes it easier to hide in the wall. However always try to use 15mm if you can! Especially on runs of more than one radiator. After three rads on a single run you need to use 22mm. Good luck mate! SUBSCRIBE! ➡️👉 th-cam.com/users/plumberparts 👈⬅️ IF YOU HAVEN'T ALREADY! 😎
ahh i see thanks, so out the boiler in 22mm then T off in 15 to all the rads, i have 13 is that correct?
thanks for your help
Howdy, I was wondering what your opinion was on having exposed copper pipes in the bathroom. I want to do up my bathroom, take out the bath tub and put in a walk in shower. But I don't want the to break or chisel down the wall just to hide pipes, I just don't want them to damage the brick or concrete or destroy the wall. So I was thinking of just extending the pipes from the bathtub which is removed, having exposed copper pipes and just putting shower and tap fittings. I heard that lather can be applied in order to keep the copper pipes looking great. I am not sure if they make plastic coverings that clip on like the ones they make for electrical cables to hides tv cords , so you don't have to chisel down the wall. What's your opinion?
Use stainless, looks ok.
Do you recommend insulating cold water pipes to protect pipe from concrete?
How did your mate chase that out so neat?
Do plumber have piping routes like sparks have cable routes, so to avoid drilling or cutting into the walls where there’s pipework ???
Not as strict as sparks route but plumbers should run everything vertical or horizontal
I see you use mapp gas for soldering, not propane. Is there a reason for that, or is it just what you had on hand?
It's what I had to hand mate. I do find mapp is a little hotter too! Cheers for your continued interest in the channel! You should get a sticker!!!!
For my shower, I have concealed pipes into a solid wall. My builder didn't do a good job which made the tiles crack and pop out of the wall. Now having to do it again! The pipe is plastic coming from floor to the control valve. Then copper pipe from control valve to shower head. Does it only need insulation on copper pipe and also the plastic?
insulate everything - it all loses heat! (unless its a cold water service)
Good call Benjy! SUBSCRIBE! ➡️👉 th-cam.com/users/plumberparts if you haven't already!
Hey jolly fellow...Do you have any videos on how to remove galvanized pipes from walls and replace with PEX ?
How much should a job like this cost roughly?
Something you might have not known but "Duct trap" has metal in it which in the long run will cause electrolysis with the copper, Some inspectors in Canada wont pass.
+Derek R (dRykenTV) Hmmm ok, good info!
I certainly didn't know that! But aluminium is less noble than copper so I don't think it would really be anything to worry about even if the % Al in the tape were not negligible. Maybe a chemist can advise.
Loving your plumbing videos! I could almost contemplate chasing my own pipes in.. however they do at least give me an idea of how the work should be done (insulated etc). Am now looking for a local plumber to do the work. If I was tackling exactly the same task as in this video (including the chasing out, pipe laying, insulation and radiator installation (already purchased) - could anyone give me an estimate of a 'reasonable quote'?
I'm in the north east uk. Need rad pipes hidden in 3 rooms. How much should I expect to pay a plumber to do this?
Pipes come down from ceiling then along skirting to rad.
i just had some plumbing work done . simpler to the video you just shared but i noticed that theres a considerable amount of heat coming thru the wall. is that normal
+Abi Rotimi Yeah it will be normal.
Is it the same principle when using plastic push fit pipes? Does it still need protection from the screed and plaster?
Just subbed. Great Chanel. Thanks
Yes mate!
plumberparts hi what should be used as a heat shield
WHY DIDN't you test for any leaks before covering with foam insulation. How would that be done. thanks
soon find out when water is in them.....
wouldn't it be better to hang and position the radiator before soldering the vertical sections which go into the valves? How can you be sure that your short vertical pipes will go exactly into the radiator valves?
+Aman A Because I'm a legendary plumber.....and I'm lucky! PP!
+plumberparts ;-)
Please be carefully those old vinyl type tiles can contain asbestos ,so not a good idea breaking them up
As per water regs ‘No water fitting shall be embedded in any wall or solid floor’ - Schedule 2: paragraph 7 explained G7.1B
nice work it should be better if you chisel the wall on the left hand side better then the middle just in case if they want to hung something in the wall they hit your pipe
amario anas Bear that in mind for next time!
Nice video mate, how did use test the pipe work under the floor?
+Alexander Lamond Pressure test? Standard way with an air pump.
Nice video mate, being a plumber/gas trainee, you've given me some great tips. Funnily enough I was doing this in my kitchen and 40mm down in the screened floor was the heating pipe, 10mm down more was my cold water main! What's the chances of that haha. Keep up the good work! Hold tight
No worries Sam, glad to help!
So do you have 100% guaranty you will not have a leak and having to take the insulation to mend the leak?? Test first and then insulate and tape pipes??!!
Like your vids mate but not sold on this one I'm afraid! You used to have to cover copper in walls due to lime in plaster which eats into copper, that is no longer the case. With the insulation the plaster is guaranteed to crack. better option in my opinion is to use plastic pipe, but either way spray with expanding foam then plaster on top a much firmer backing for plaster, prevents material getting to pipes and insulates
Hi there, it's great you live our videos! I've personally never had a problem with any of the methods as long as you've got a nice deep chase. But we'll see!!! Many thanks, PP!
Denzo ftw
Makes sense... but both methods look neat.
This video is great! Thanks for the advice and nice singing there ;)
Would the plasterers bonding take to the insulation I alway use gaffer tape or if it’s a Friday FUCK ALL HAHA
trunkimg barrier pipe ?
you're a riot mr Plumber! subscribed!
Great Video , having to deal with this now from the sink.
building reg...Vertical chases should be no deeper than one third of the wall thickness!
And they aren't in this video! Sorry for the delay in replying!
Sub here please➡️👉 th-cam.com/users/plumberparts 👈⬅️If you haven't already!
Is it one third 'wall' thickness or 'leaf' thickness?
Leaf.
My friend, you are a good teacher.
Scheut Cheers!
Can you please make video on how to pressure test pipes with standard air pump. Many thanks
Will do!
Arbeed Ahmed ?
+plumberparts where is the video ?
Thanks
+plumberparts I didn't know that was an option. Looking forward to the vid.
Geeza as always top vid would have looked amazing if pipes came out of the wall instead of the floor. Can you do a vid on under floor heating does and don't.
kuli557 I will!
Great vid, terrible signing! Less tricky if you apply the duct tape before offering the pipes up to the wall though. My need for watching the vid was to see how you finish the holes from the floor to the rad,
great video i am just doing this exact job in our living room. many thanks for the tips. and video great slo mo for those not experienced keep it up.
And here was me thinking the "chase" was the cutting/drilling job. So it's actually just the fitting part. Every day's a school day.
Do you just fill the wall now with some 'cement' type substance or would you pre-fill some of it with that foamy stuff first?
It must be a hell of a job to fill in, and then plaster?
Cement and skim. Some use newspaper to protect the pipes. Or fixer foam to fill the gap, cut back and skim. SUBSCRIBE! ➡️👉 th-cam.com/users/plumberparts 👈⬅️ IF YOU HAVEN'T ALREADY! 😎
Reply ·
I love the videos to, but I thought that the Water Regs didn't allow pipework on external walls? Thoughts anyone? Keep up the good work!
Hmmm might be if it's single skin perhaps. Otherwise I've seen it in nearly every property I've worked in! Regards, PP!
nice neat work good job
journeyman plumber here
i know everyone would have their own ways of doing it especially my boss lol..
is expanding foam ok to use touching the copper pipe?
Yep fine
I thought that expanding foam corrodes copper.
Why did you not just stick the rad tails out the wall?
I'm sure the client isn't going to come back and render the wall either.
He bloody better! He owns the home and wanted the pipes in the wall!
I'm not a plumber and just bonded straight over the bare pipes coz I'm a fuckin gangster. 12 years later still going strong
Nice job
So ar people paying for this kind of work in the UK?
Im a plumber to, I mean, you are using copper, soldering it and works with a angle grinder.
Here in The Netherlands we will work with alupex tube and a wall cutter, we can arrange this job within one hour without the use of a pipe bender and soldering materials. And you can chase alupex directly in the wall without any use off protection just plaster. So it will be much cheaper. Dont you guys use this in the UK? Please let me know.
+Mar Cel I think its called something else over here. Use it on Uponor..
I'm having a vertical radiator installed on my wall, the corgi who came to install it chased up the sides of the chimney breast where I am having it installed but he didn't pin the pipes to the wall. I meant to be having plaster boarding over the chimney breast but was he meant to pin these pipes? He just wrapped the pipes in black tape I guess to insulate them? Is the plasterer meant to pin these pipes or was the corgi meant to do that?
The plumber should do it. It's his job, not the plasterer.
Unless the plasterer removes them which they are buggers for
@@gooffey81 Hi Stephen thanks for this. My plumber has ripped me off. We told him to install the radiator ready for the pipes to be boxed in, he now claims we didn't ask for a 1st fix and also claimed that he didn't need to pin them in. I am not sure what to do as I lost £260 over it. His pipe work looks good but then again just left these two long pipes dangling about with the TRV's attached. I may have to get another plumber out now to rectify it.
He just installed it to the chimney breast as in not a first fix and made out that we didn't ask for a 1st fix when it's pretty clear that we are having plastering done. He insisted that the plasterer can just plaster around the pipes and doesn't need to pin them which won't work because the TRV valves won't sit flush when boarded in, (having them pinned in probably makes the plasterer life easier since he will then know where to board and plaster the pipe work) pipes should be coming out of the chase about another 2 or 3 inches for room to play with which been told by a plasterer that the pipes either side should of been longer for extra play when we come to mount the rad back on the wall, then cut the pipes to length to marry up with the rad valves. Just lazy shoddy work, should I report him?
Now he wants £60 to come back out and refix the issues and then the rad comes off the wall, brackets ect to get it all boxed in with plasterboard. Then he wants another £85 to come back and remount the radiator, redrill screws for brackets, refit them and test the radiator again when it's already been tested.
Installing pipes to a radiator or plumbing appliances is all part of a first fix.
Pipes should never be left loose. They should be clipped to a wall or knock over clips on joists.
This can prevent the pipes from rattling..Sometimes they can get really loud when a heating system is running.
The only reason to leave them loose on a first fix is to plaster behind them.
I hope he's put cap ends on the TRVs (thermostatic radiator valve)?
TRVs can open up when a heating system starts.
That's how we go about every job. Good luck
A crack appeared later in the wall above as one half of the house moved away from the other due to the slot created by the plumber and the only thing retaining the houses together was the gaffer tape... 😆
I want to put a picture up where those pipes are wheres my Drill
GETTHEDEUCE loool
At these work speeds It takes months to install a few radiators
Ps loving the videos mate , keep up the good work 😁
Pp if u had a rad schedule u would win d lottery!!
And make D'movie!!,
Great audio.couldnt thumbs down fast enough
love the videos keep them coming
Cheers dude!
Why do you not have an apprentice?
most people dont either need them want them or cant afford them :/
but im certain the majority of viewers he has are trainee plumbers like myself scouting for apprenticeships.
Reginald Tinkleberry True, and you need to be lucky to get a real good one!
Yeah Its a two way street, also for any would be apprentices out there, its a bit of a gamble taking an apprenticeship...never know if you're there to learn or be cheap labour.
I guess. its a bit of give and take. The employer needs to make money out of the apprentice and the apprentice needs to learn. It like we all say, they're useless for 6 months and then suddenly BAM it all clicks into place.
***** Tis true, + I think you get a good kick back for taking one on that should pay for them for six months of the year, worth looking into. Some are fucking amazing, some turn out to be brain dead numptys. Worth giving a 2 week trial on them though, for free ish as work exp through a college.
Can't run plumbing in outside walls in Canada so I don't need to worry about ever doing this
Centra of wall was that important choice? Obvious a picture will be hung there, nail straight into pipes
Nice video, but you used copper which will simply corrode and get pin hole leaks. How fast this happens depends on the kind of water. Could be 25 to 30 years. Could be 15. Might even be 40. It also depends on how thick the copper is and the Ph or how acid the water source is. Ask me how I know.. Now faced with a nightmare situation 20 years after home built, pin hole leaks are sprouted everywhere. The fix was supposed to be a water softer and a tank, but had that been done, it's annoying to keep it going, to keep adding chemicals and that costs money and it would break down too. Also we were not even warned we needed this with our water. So it started with sharkbites, but now more and more elbows are going. It will not get copper, but likely get PVC. Also the person who put the well pump in used pvc, and the other plumber used copper. Guess which pipes have no deterioration after 30 years on a 1987 home? Yep, all the pvc used from the well plumbing looks the same. I broke a pipe by having something heavy smash it. It was one repair. The inside of the pvc looked like new. All copper pipes are so thin they are like coke cans you can almost crumple with your fingers. As for insulation, that's nice, but the amount of loss in energy is negligible, and say it's 20 years from now, and they started leaking. Someone will have a nightmare on their hands. Thankfully it's not a larger home. As for what I drink both pipes are both supposedly ok (unless copper leeches out lead?), but I've always used a filter even though we have good tested water. The other thing is moldy dry wall isn't healthy either, and now that has to be changed... and it all could have been avoided by not using copper. Not trying to mess up your nice video, but I really have to wonder about copper, especially in certain places, if not all. Have to replace two ceilings now and a bit of carpeting too. You did a great job, it's just that it's that copper...
Spot on mate!
Just to be clear though, the water corroding your copper pipes is the well water?
Also the one thing you absolutely do NOT want is a water softener 😆
Is that a rothenberger access chair ? Haha
antthebear If only, couldnt afford it! :)