Great job Mike , just the right amount of talking information and practical showing not like some who over talk too much. I've subscribed to see more as into car detailing in an amateur way.
I teach people to shake products as a good "Best Practice". It doesn't mean the product needed to be shaken, it's just a good practice to make sure the product inside is thoroughly mixed before using for best results. You're right in that a good chemist will create an emulsion that won't separate, but the bigger picture is it's a good "Best Practice" to go ahead and shake any product before use. It certainly can't hurt. -Mike Phillips
I've been watching lots of detailing videos before working on my truck. This video is far and away the best I have found. Mike explains all of the little details that other people tend to leave out. I'm hoping my truck turns out ok. My dog has put lots of light scratches in the clearcoat.
Just received the new corded Beast and I’m absolutely in love! Had the old 3401 and loved it but this new replacement is a few steps up in every way. The Flex combined with Lake Countries CCS pads is pure magic. Love, love, love Flex. As a matter of fact I just preordered there new 80 mini.
Nice...mine is in the mail. Hope to get it within a few days. The Flex rotary is nice. Thought this Flex 3401 would be a good addition. Very nice video. Excellent Job Mike Phillips.
awesome video(s).... Just ordered the Flex 3401 W/the Wolfgang uber compound, finishing glaze , and the paint sealant , and the assortment of the hydro-tech pads(cyan/tangerine/crimson).... Looking forward to hopefully bringing my black Vette to an all new level of shine.... I made sure to place my order with AutoGeek, and it's specifically because of your videos like this one...
To lube or not to lube the felt ring - that is the question. In this video u show how to and recommend the procedure but in the forum you said you haven't done this on other Flex units. Can you please clarify?
One of the best instructional videos I have seen yet. Picked up ALOT of usefull tips in this one. Awesome work and I loved your matter of fact instruction style.
I haven't used the Rubes Bigfoot so I can't compare. The Flex 3401 was build specifically for polishing paint and is of the highest quality you can buy so it's always going to be a quality tool to have in your arsenal. Plus there are lots of pads and backing plate options. Not sure that's tre for the Rubes... -Mike Phillips
Another little tip for drying the pads. Once im done and they're all washed. I take my rotary outside and put a pad on at the highest setting and turn it on. This flings all the water out and leaves it lightly damp. This does spray a bit of water so turn it away from anything H2O intolerant
Great video, love it. Thanks so much for the clear and easy to follow instructions and veteran techniques. More than satisfied with the results I just got on my black paint with the same products. Bought from you too. Cheers!
I kind of figured this might be where the confusion is? In the Lake Country "Hydro-Tech" pad line, Cyan = Cutting Tangerine = Polishing Crimson = Finishing Every pad manufacturer uses different colors for their ratings for their pads and even use different color coding for multiple pad lines. This can make it confusing. -Mike Phillips
Awesome video Mike, what are the chances of you filming a video similar to this but with the Rupes bigfoot? I'm sure myself and many others are stuck with the decision on which polisher to purchase. Thanks Ryan.
As soon as we can get to it. Right now we're fully focused on other projects but when we can we will put one together. I'm a huge fan of the Duetto by the way. -Mike Phillips
I'm a flat rate detailer. I can't buff that slow. I use a Dewalt or makita still looks good. I use a bigger pad covers more area. 3m products are my go to buffing products
Just curious as to why you chose the blue pad first when applying the total swirl removal 3.0???? Doesn't the orange pad have more cutting power to remove swirls or does it really matter which one you use in the first step??? I have to admit I love the flex 3401 and the Wolf Gang series products!!!
The downward pressure applied when using the swirl remover you stated was approx 15 pounds. That was including the weight of the machine at 8/9 pounds wasn't it?
Excellent video. Question: how do you store pads after each use? Would putting each pad in a separate Ziplock bag be the way to go? Can this be done is sunlight or shade?
Great video! couple of questions if you don't mind. If using another product system such as "mothers" would following these same steps yield similar results? and how long would this detailing treatment last approximately before seeing imperfections again in the paint surface? how many washes lets say? Thanks Mike Mike..
How big of a section do you do at a time? ie do you do the whole hood then move on to one front fender and then the other or do you do the whole front part of the car hood fenders all at once?
i cant believe i just watched this whole thing haha great vid. ill take this information and use it along with all the other information ive been getting here on youtube. theres many different ways to do one thing. everyone has their own styles.
awesome video.. thought I might have picked up some tips on the machine.. I think my favourite bit is cyan, tangerine and crimson. also know as blue orange and red :-) lol
I just ordered the Mini backing plate from you guys to be able to run 5-5.5 inch pads. The larger pads using the Flex 3401 isn't pleasant to operate. Guess I'm spoiled with my Rupes 15
Great video. Great car to demonstrate on, terrible paint. I'm working on an A4 Audi in Ibis white and I can't seem to cut through. Mequairs 105 with coarse pads and microfiber on a Griots DA. Any recommendations for a heavier cut that an amateur can still use safely?
Great video Mike, Im still deciding about what buffer I will be purchasing soon. Its between the Rupes 15 and Flex 3401. I have lots of experience with the PC so I don't mind a learning curve for both of these new machines. I just been hearing that the rupes has a hard time on side panels and alot of people dont like the backwards spin of the flex. Reading thru many threads, its about 50/50 between which machine people recommend. I may also add that Im only gonna have the rupes or the flex.
I just picked up a brand new black infiniti g37x with the self healing paint and want to know what flex 3401 package should I get? I heard the Menzerna products are good for this type of paint?
hi autogeek, just wondering what your thoughts are between this and the rupes bigfoot? trying to find some reliable sources to compare them both! thanks!
Hey Mike I bought a flex from y'all and I also bought a backing plate does it already have one on or should I put the one that I bought on it. Also I bought 2 grit guards one of the grit guards do not fit in the 5 gallon buck it is to small could it be the bucket?
what are some good resources and website where we can find useful information on detailing and showroom finishing . for example i want to find more information on a good starter DA orbital and i want to compare specs and prices. and or a website where we can find everything we need to get started on detailing. thanks
Dear Mike! I Use 6" flexipads microfibre cutting + finishing pad with 3m FC+(green cap) and Extrafine (yellow cap) the surface is perfect but hologramms still remain on darker especially on black cars...Can you tell me why I get holograms especially if this machine is sold as anti-hologram maschine? :) Regards, Daniel
Hi Mike I've got a question. Before you start polishing, you always prime the pad. And afterwards you put 3 dots on it. But after you finished one spot, and you want to start another spot, do you again use only 3 dots? Or do you use more? And if you do the entire bonnet, how many times do you have the prime the pad? Only once at the beginning? Thx!
I only prime once at the beginning when the pad is clean and dry. Some guys teach priming after each section you buff but if you do you'll tend to saturate your pad faster and when your pad becomes saturated it won't work as effectively as a dry pad. -Mike Phillips
I have a DA polisher which it has a 500Watts of power motor and I have had problems removing some scratches. I used a heavy duty compound and pad, I did the 6 passes over the surface and there was still scratches left. Do you think that a more powerful polisher will remover those scratches faster or it will always be the case of persisting and increasing the amount of passes?Thank you
Get yourself a more powerful polisher like the Griots Garage dual action 6in. It's 850w of power. I had a 500w before and I had the same issue as you for some harder paints. It's no longer an issue with the Griots. The power difference is day and night.
Mike, great video. I ordered this exact kit from autogeek and still waiting to use it. However I have a question regarding the pads. LakeCountry makes only three hydro tech pads. Now, cyan blue is considered as an aggressive pad for removal of heavy swirls and scratches. Can it be used for removal of light scratches? What about tangerine pad, can it be used for removal of light swirls or is it only meant for polishing? tnx
You can use either, just depends upon how deep the scratches are and how hard or soft the paint is, that's why you want to start out by doing a Test Spot. Do some testing as paints are different. See what works best and go with it. -Mike Phillips
I've been told that priming the pad could clog up the "pores" of the pad, and those "pores" are what cuts the paint, since when people prime the pads they end up using too much product and it clogs up the pores. Do you have any advice on that matter?
MadJDMTurboBoost I know for myself, I can say that I've slowly gotten away from the priming of the (new or freshly cleaned) pads with a bunch of product.. Since i fully clean the pad out very often(every 1-2 completed sections, max), I was not only going through WAY WAY too much expensive product every time, but I find that it offers me no benefit, and can actually cause excessive dusting on long working times for heavy correction jobs(with certain products).. And I also seem to get even better results(and more smooth, uniform cutting, if that makes sense), by substituting the pad priming with just a few sprays of pad spray lube(worked into the pad).... then just a normal few small dots, or strips of product...
I have an article on the forum showing you how to do this, so that's an indicator I recommend it... Copy and paste the below into Google and see for yourself... Lubricating the Felt Ring on the Flex 3401 -Mike Phillips
***** wax is last step but you dont have to wax, if its your own car and you want best results , seal first then wax over the seal , if its a business get a sealent wax in one
hello my name is Eric try to use a compound and absorbed through the paint immediately now the stains are in the paint I started buffing it and nothing will come out how do I remove that
Hi Mike, I have a 3401 and just used it with a purple wool and HD Cut to try and remove some scratches from my Toyota, even after this stage (3-4 passes) it did clean it up but still left some scratches. Any advice? I followed it up with HD Polish and LCC orange pad.
and no other machine. Because I noticed many people have a pc and rupes or flex and a pc. So I guess im looking for a polisher that I can do the whole car with. Without having to bust out another machine to finish the car.
Hey Mike, do you feel like the stronger cutting Wolfgang Uber compound finishes "EVERY bit as good" as(or maybe even better from what I'm seeing) than the Wolfgang total Swirl Reducer? I have the entire line at my dispose, but I'm just not currently seeing any situations(thus far even on a fine black finish) that are benefiting from the TSW(after using the uber compound)... even on paints that would never look traditionally "like they needed compounding" seem to finish out better than the TSW.. Just curious about your thoughts on this... PS: As previously mentioned, 99% of what I have in equipment and products come from your videos and advice... Thanks Joe
Hi joeb122672, I find in most cases the Uber Compound will finish out as good or close to the Total Swirl Remover and for my own work and recommendations to others I go with the Wolfgang Finishing Glaze after using the Uber Compound. -Mike Phillips
When ever I one step polish my cars there is always some kind of white dust that flies off the pad from the machine. Am I adding to much pressure, product, not enough, etc? What am I doing wrong and if I wipe the dust off will it scratch the paint? It happened most on panel gaps, panel bents ( the body of the car is curved), areas where the pad is not totally on the paint, and curves on the car.
Are you cleaning your pad often? You can also try working a smaller section and don't buff to a dry buff. There should always be a wet film of product on the surface. -Mike Phillips
James Smith As long as you're using quality, brand name compounds and polishes, a general rule of thumb is 6-8 section passes will ensure you've worked the product long enough. -Mike Phillips
I do all my testing on black paint and then chemically strip the paint and inspect with bright light. So when you do your testing, be sure to do the same and keep in mind that when working on clear coats, it doesn't matter what the underlying color coat is. If you see micro-marring on clear coated black paint it's likely happening on clearcoated light colors, you're eyes just can't see it. Make sense? Test on black paint then strip the paint and tell me what you see. -Mike Phillips
I am using the Flex rotary.Used it for the first time a week ago.What I noticed with this poilsher when On low speed setting it going left to right with ease.Soon as I turn the setting up to 5 it goes to the right fine but When I bring it back to the left I am fighting the machine it keeps snagging.
rotary is a hard machine to master, its a lot to do with technique , ive got a rotary, theyre a beast, but I use mine for spot repairs, and switch to the DA for paint correction, rotary machine cause loads of damage in the paint, you only need to use a rotary if your paint its really jacked, then this flex 3401 is a direct drive machine so its better than a normal DA
The backing plate is proprietary as the back of it has gear teeth to create the forced rotation action. There are 3 other backing plate options available for this tool and you can find them all at Autogeek.net or call Customer Support at 1-800-869-3011 -Mike Phillips
Don't remember. The important thing is to dilute whatever you have till it's about 25%. Google - How to dilute IPA Mike Phillips and you'll pull up my article on this topic. -Mike Phillips
That's a good way to get the water out of a foam pad after washing it if you have a rotary buffer. If you don't, google this, How to dry a foam pad after hand washing Mike Phillips
It's real simple. Read the directions on the back of the labels of your bottles of 3M products and you'll see they state they are for ROTARY BUFFERS! Don't feel back, lots of people try to use abrasive technology formulated and designed for use with rotary buffers with dual action polishers and have the same problem you're seeing. Get some compounds and polishes made for dual action polishers like I use and you won't see any holograms. The tool works great though... -Mike Phillips
*Good **MyBest.Tools** power and rpm control.*
This is one of the best informative videos, that i have seen in TH-cam, many do not take care of small details, but this one does.
I’m a detailer the flex is the best thang that I ever bought money maker for sure I have the battery operated one I love it
Great job Mike , just the right amount of talking information and practical showing not like some who over talk too much. I've subscribed to see more as into car detailing in an amateur way.
Thank you sir!
-Mike Phillips
I teach people to shake products as a good "Best Practice". It doesn't mean the product needed to be shaken, it's just a good practice to make sure the product inside is thoroughly mixed before using for best results. You're right in that a good chemist will create an emulsion that won't separate, but the bigger picture is it's a good "Best Practice" to go ahead and shake any product before use. It certainly can't hurt. -Mike Phillips
I've been watching lots of detailing videos before working on my truck. This video is far and away the best I have found. Mike explains all of the little details that other people tend to leave out. I'm hoping my truck turns out ok. My dog has put lots of light scratches in the clearcoat.
Thanks for sharing that. What I see are more videos popping up sharing my tips and techniques but no credit given to the source.
-Mike Phillips
Just received the new corded Beast and I’m absolutely in love!
Had the old 3401 and loved it but this new replacement is a few steps up in every way.
The Flex combined with Lake Countries CCS pads is pure magic.
Love, love, love Flex.
As a matter of fact I just preordered there new 80 mini.
Love the way the Flex 3401 sounds throaty and purrs
Mike P. I watch ur video over n over n always get inspired by u. U r one of my favorites to learn from. Thanks for being genuine!
Thanks for the kind words, they're much appreciated.
-Mike Phillips
Nice...mine is in the mail. Hope to get it within a few days. The Flex rotary is nice. Thought this Flex 3401 would be a good addition. Very nice video. Excellent Job Mike Phillips.
awesome video(s).... Just ordered the Flex 3401 W/the Wolfgang uber compound, finishing glaze , and the paint sealant , and the assortment of the hydro-tech pads(cyan/tangerine/crimson).... Looking forward to hopefully bringing my black Vette to an all new level of shine.... I made sure to place my order with AutoGeek, and it's specifically because of your videos like this one...
You're a great teacher. Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
To lube or not to lube the felt ring - that is the question. In this video u show how to and recommend the procedure but in the forum you said you haven't done this on other Flex units. Can you please clarify?
I've used it a few times and in comparison to some of the more old school polishers it was a dream to work with. Please test it out :)
One of the best instructional videos I have seen yet. Picked up ALOT of usefull tips in this one. Awesome work and I loved your matter of fact instruction style.
I haven't used the Rubes Bigfoot so I can't compare. The Flex 3401 was build specifically for polishing paint and is of the highest quality you can buy so it's always going to be a quality tool to have in your arsenal. Plus there are lots of pads and backing plate options. Not sure that's tre for the Rubes... -Mike Phillips
What a great video! I feel as If I can go out and do this to my Z, can't wait until I order all the supplies I need. Keep these videos coming!
Thank you, glad you like it, hope it helps...
Keep on shining!
-Mike Phillips
I am a newbie and will be buying the Flex 3401 for my first polisher. Thanks
Another little tip for drying the pads. Once im done and they're all washed. I take my rotary outside and put a pad on at the highest setting and turn it on. This flings all the water out and leaves it lightly damp. This does spray a bit of water so turn it away from anything H2O intolerant
Great video, love it. Thanks so much for the clear and easy to follow instructions and veteran techniques. More than satisfied with the results I just got on my black paint with the same products. Bought from you too. Cheers!
You can use the Flex 3401 for removing defects, polishing to a high gloss and machine applying wax. -Mike Phillips
I kind of figured this might be where the confusion is? In the Lake Country "Hydro-Tech" pad line,
Cyan = Cutting
Tangerine = Polishing
Crimson = Finishing
Every pad manufacturer uses different colors for their ratings for their pads and even use different color coding for multiple pad lines. This can make it confusing. -Mike Phillips
Nice job!!
Awesome video Mike, what are the chances of you filming a video similar to this but with the Rupes bigfoot? I'm sure myself and many others are stuck with the decision on which polisher to purchase. Thanks Ryan.
As soon as we can get to it. Right now we're fully focused on other projects but when we can we will put one together. I'm a huge fan of the Duetto by the way.
-Mike Phillips
Yes, that is correct and that is what I did. What section did you think was out of order?
-Mike Phillips
What is the name of three chemicals used starting with blue pad to finish? Good video. Thanks.
Thanks Mike, you are amazing! I learnt everything about exterior detailing from you. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and xp with us.
would u recommend the flex 3401 for a learning beginner?
I'm a flat rate detailer. I can't buff that slow. I use a Dewalt or makita still looks good. I use a bigger pad covers more area. 3m products are my go to buffing products
Just curious as to why you chose the blue pad first when applying the total swirl removal 3.0???? Doesn't the orange pad have more cutting power to remove swirls or does it really matter which one you use in the first step??? I have to admit I love the flex 3401 and the Wolf Gang series products!!!
The downward pressure applied when using the swirl remover you stated was approx 15 pounds. That was including the weight of the machine at 8/9 pounds wasn't it?
Excellent video. Question: how do you store pads after each use? Would putting each pad in a separate Ziplock bag be the way to go? Can this be done is sunlight or shade?
Great video! couple of questions if you don't mind. If using another product system such as "mothers" would following these same steps yield similar results? and how long would this detailing treatment last approximately before seeing imperfections again in the paint surface? how many washes lets say?
Thanks Mike
Mike..
Hellow sir. What Kind of oíl did you use in minute 2:40? Thanks a los in advanced. A big hugh
How big of a section do you do at a time? ie do you do the whole hood then move on to one front fender and then the other or do you do the whole front part of the car hood fenders all at once?
i cant believe i just watched this whole thing haha great vid. ill take this information and use it along with all the other information ive been getting here on youtube. theres many different ways to do one thing. everyone has their own styles.
awesome video.. thought I might have picked up some tips on the machine.. I think my favourite bit is cyan, tangerine and crimson. also know as blue orange and red :-) lol
I just ordered the Mini backing plate from you guys to be able to run 5-5.5 inch pads.
The larger pads using the Flex 3401 isn't pleasant to operate.
Guess I'm spoiled with my Rupes 15
Great video. Great car to demonstrate on, terrible paint. I'm working on an A4 Audi in Ibis white and I can't seem to cut through. Mequairs 105 with coarse pads and microfiber on a Griots DA. Any recommendations for a heavier cut that an amateur can still use safely?
Mike, is the backing plate a proprietary part or can any after-market plates be used?
Are the air tool oil and the pneumatic oil the same?
For flat surface it's fine what about the edges and curvy parts ???
Also does it have better cutting than a dual action ?
Is this a good polisher for beginners?
Nice video. Very informative. Its not possible to wash the pad by water and soap alone.
Great video Mike, Im still deciding about what buffer I will be purchasing soon. Its between the Rupes 15 and Flex 3401. I have lots of experience with the PC so I don't mind a learning curve for both of these new machines. I just been hearing that the rupes has a hard time on side panels and alot of people dont like the backwards spin of the flex. Reading thru many threads, its about 50/50 between which machine people recommend. I may also add that Im only gonna have the rupes or the flex.
What did you end up going with?
it OK guys! mastered the Flex rotary now.Had it on to high.
Does This Pair WEll With D300 compoUND By MGUIRES And The cutting microfiber pad?
Excellent video. Great things to learn. I believe I am ready to purchase a new DA to do works with my car.
Is there a way to tell if the paint is soft or hard
will it remove paint oxidation and sanding marks the flex
I just picked up a brand new black infiniti g37x with the self healing paint and want to know what flex 3401 package should I get? I heard the Menzerna products are good for this type of paint?
hi autogeek, just wondering what your thoughts are between this and the rupes bigfoot? trying to find some reliable sources to compare them both! thanks!
So flex polisher does not burn the paint?
Great video. Can this "how to" apply for makita po5000c ?
Do you recommended this flex for a beginner? I've been hearing about the flex and was set to buy a porter cable
Hey Mike I bought a flex from y'all and I also bought a backing plate does it already have one on or should I put the one that I bought on it. Also I bought 2 grit guards one of the grit guards do not fit in the 5 gallon buck it is to small could it be the bucket?
If went with lake country Ccs pads, which color pad is for cutting, polishing and finishing? Thanks in advance
what are some good resources and website where we can find useful information on detailing and showroom finishing .
for example i want to find more information on a good starter DA orbital and i want to compare specs and prices.
and or a website where we can find everything we need to get started on detailing.
thanks
Great video and demonstration, what is the full model name of that Flex polisher?
Or if even the latest Flex machine that's as good as that one
Can i use the flex 3401 as a beginner ??? for waxing my car during weekends ??
Dear Mike!
I Use 6" flexipads microfibre cutting + finishing pad with 3m FC+(green cap) and Extrafine (yellow cap) the surface is perfect but hologramms still remain on darker especially on black cars...Can you tell me why I get holograms especially if this machine is sold as anti-hologram maschine? :)
Regards,
Daniel
You're able to correct the paint going that fast?
How much all in ? Tool pads and product ?
Hi Mike
I've got a question. Before you start polishing, you always prime the pad. And afterwards you put 3 dots on it. But after you finished one spot, and you want to start another spot, do you again use only 3 dots? Or do you use more? And if you do the entire bonnet, how many times do you have the prime the pad? Only once at the beginning?
Thx!
I only prime once at the beginning when the pad is clean and dry. Some guys teach priming after each section you buff but if you do you'll tend to saturate your pad faster and when your pad becomes saturated it won't work as effectively as a dry pad.
-Mike Phillips
I have a DA polisher which it has a 500Watts of power motor and I have had problems removing some scratches. I used a heavy duty compound and pad, I did the 6 passes over the surface and there was still scratches left. Do you think that a more powerful polisher will remover those scratches faster or it will always be the case of persisting and increasing the amount of passes?Thank you
Get yourself a more powerful polisher like the Griots Garage dual action 6in. It's 850w of power. I had a 500w before and I had the same issue as you for some harder paints. It's no longer an issue with the Griots. The power difference is day and night.
Dear friend, am I looking to buy a forced turning machine, between rupes mille, makita co6000 or flex 3401? What would you recommend? many thanks
Mike , this may have been asked already but can you fit smaller backing plates to this flex like 3" and smaller ? Thanks
Great Video! Detailed & Informative.
Difference between drill machine and polishing machine?
Do you think I should get the porter cable to do it all?
Thanks for sharing your experience..!!
That help me a lot!!
You certainly can. The PC is a very capable tool, but sometimes you'll spend more time due to the free spinning spindle bearing design.
-Mike Phillips
Mike, great video. I ordered this exact kit from autogeek and still waiting to use it. However I have a question regarding the pads. LakeCountry makes only three hydro tech pads. Now, cyan blue is considered as an aggressive pad for removal of heavy swirls and scratches. Can it be used for removal of light scratches? What about tangerine pad, can it be used for removal of light swirls or is it only meant for polishing? tnx
You can use either, just depends upon how deep the scratches are and how hard or soft the paint is, that's why you want to start out by doing a Test Spot. Do some testing as paints are different. See what works best and go with it.
-Mike Phillips
I've been told that priming the pad could clog up the "pores" of the pad, and those "pores" are what cuts the paint, since when people prime the pads they end up using too much product and it clogs up the pores. Do you have any advice on that matter?
MadJDMTurboBoost I know for myself, I can say that I've slowly gotten away from the priming of the (new or freshly cleaned) pads with a bunch of product..
Since i fully clean the pad out very often(every 1-2 completed sections, max), I was not only going through WAY WAY too much expensive product every time, but I find that it offers me no benefit, and can actually cause excessive dusting on long working times for heavy correction jobs(with certain products)..
And I also seem to get even better results(and more smooth, uniform cutting, if that makes sense), by substituting the pad priming with just a few sprays of pad spray lube(worked into the pad)....
then just a normal few small dots, or strips of product...
I have an article on the forum showing you how to do this, so that's an indicator I recommend it... Copy and paste the below into Google and see for yourself...
Lubricating the Felt Ring on the Flex 3401
-Mike Phillips
Is the paint sealant the last step, or or does the car have to be waxed? Thanks
***** wax is last step but you dont have to wax, if its your own car and you want best results , seal first then wax over the seal , if its a business get a sealent wax in one
hello my name is Eric try to use a compound and absorbed through the paint immediately now the stains are in the paint I started buffing it and nothing will come out how do I remove that
@yizzer2 DERP! These products are for removing swirls and scratches, polishing and applying wax or sealant.
Hi Mike, I have a 3401 and just used it with a purple wool and HD Cut to try and remove some scratches from my Toyota, even after this stage (3-4 passes) it did clean it up but still left some scratches. Any advice? I followed it up with HD Polish and LCC orange pad.
is working but not good in off ,you rigth now witch brand you recomend me the best for the 7424 xp?
and no other machine. Because I noticed many people have a pc and rupes or flex and a pc. So I guess im looking for a polisher that I can do the whole car with. Without having to bust out another machine to finish the car.
Hey Mike, do you feel like the stronger cutting Wolfgang Uber compound finishes "EVERY bit as good" as(or maybe even better from what I'm seeing) than the Wolfgang total Swirl Reducer?
I have the entire line at my dispose, but I'm just not currently seeing any situations(thus far even on a fine black finish) that are benefiting from the TSW(after using the uber compound)...
even on paints that would never look traditionally "like they needed compounding" seem to finish out better than the TSW..
Just curious about your thoughts on this...
PS: As previously mentioned, 99% of what I have in equipment and products come from your videos and advice... Thanks
Joe
Hi joeb122672,
I find in most cases the Uber Compound will finish out as good or close to the Total Swirl Remover and for my own work and recommendations to others I go with the Wolfgang Finishing Glaze after using the Uber Compound.
-Mike Phillips
EXCELLENT video, like the rest of your videos :) Thanks for helping all of us!!!
When ever I one step polish my cars there is always some kind of white dust that flies off the pad from the machine. Am I adding to much pressure, product, not enough, etc? What am I doing wrong and if I wipe the dust off will it scratch the paint? It happened most on panel gaps, panel bents ( the body of the car is curved), areas where the pad is not totally on the paint, and curves on the car.
Are you cleaning your pad often? You can also try working a smaller section and don't buff to a dry buff. There should always be a wet film of product on the surface. -Mike Phillips
So I should be able to see a wet film but then how to I know when the product is worked in enough? Thank You for your time a great videos.
James Smith
As long as you're using quality, brand name compounds and polishes, a general rule of thumb is 6-8 section passes will ensure you've worked the product long enough. -Mike Phillips
I do all my testing on black paint and then chemically strip the paint and inspect with bright light. So when you do your testing, be sure to do the same and keep in mind that when working on clear coats, it doesn't matter what the underlying color coat is. If you see micro-marring on clear coated black paint it's likely happening on clearcoated light colors, you're eyes just can't see it. Make sense? Test on black paint then strip the paint and tell me what you see. -Mike Phillips
God damn that panel is very glossy. Keep up the good work!
Great video.......... cant wait to get to the garage !
which is better the flex 3401 or the rupes 21 mark 2?
I am using the Flex rotary.Used it for the first time a week ago.What I noticed with this poilsher when On low speed setting it going left to right with ease.Soon as I turn the setting up to 5 it goes to the right fine but When I bring it back to the left I am fighting the machine it keeps snagging.
rotary is a hard machine to master, its a lot to do with technique , ive got a rotary, theyre a beast, but I use mine for spot repairs, and switch to the DA for paint correction, rotary machine cause loads of damage in the paint, you only need to use a rotary if your paint its really jacked, then this flex 3401 is a direct drive machine so its better than a normal DA
sounds like you have the back a little high.. rotorys walk side to side for you if you lift and lower the back
+Mike Forward just find rotary machines hardwork. i can use one to a certain lvl. i just find them anoying to be honest
+nissan300bhp I guess it's just what your used to.. you need to be more alert with the rotory. I have the 3401 and a rotory..
Mike Forward i like a DA. Im going to get more practice in with the the rotary but always find myself going for the da
Great Mike Phillip's!!! great way to explain and Teach!! all the best Mike / TC Fatboy
Can I use white oil or cooking oil?
What brand are the pads ???
well I noticed light bouncing out from the scratches, about 3 of them.
would love that flex banner on the wall behind you ;-) is there anywhere I can get one of those? thanks mike, - ryan - south wales
The backing plate is proprietary as the back of it has gear teeth to create the forced rotation action. There are 3 other backing plate options available for this tool and you can find them all at Autogeek.net or call Customer Support at 1-800-869-3011
-Mike Phillips
id really like that flex banner ! come on mike :-) would look nice in my garage.
What was the IPA percentage before you diluted it?
Don't remember. The important thing is to dilute whatever you have till it's about 25%. Google - How to dilute IPA Mike Phillips and you'll pull up my article on this topic.
-Mike Phillips
Thank you!
That's a good way to get the water out of a foam pad after washing it if you have a rotary buffer. If you don't, google this,
How to dry a foam pad after hand washing
Mike Phillips
It's real simple. Read the directions on the back of the labels of your bottles of 3M products and you'll see they state they are for ROTARY BUFFERS!
Don't feel back, lots of people try to use abrasive technology formulated and designed for use with rotary buffers with dual action polishers and have the same problem you're seeing. Get some compounds and polishes made for dual action polishers like I use and you won't see any holograms. The tool works great though... -Mike Phillips