Lou is the only person that I know that can intermix fiberglass in a wood boat project and not get run out of the room on rails. Great stuff! Thank you for your progressive ideas Lou!
Your craftsmanship is outstanding Maestro Sauzedde! I’ve learned so many practical and ingenious tips from this perfectly named channel. The gauge for marking the keel was jaw dropping! Thank you!
Thank you Lou for sharing this build with everyone. That bottom lamination is going to be massively strong. Every video I watch of yours gives me new insight on building and very handy tricks on fitting the many pieces of a boat together. Again, thank you and take care.
@@richarddegen6184 To my eyes, this seems like a concept I find easier to grasp. Previously I have been involved in building from lofting and drawings. This method suits the way my brain works. A lot of the work, once on the strongback, is about using your eyes and finding a fair line, even if using plans, anyway. No plan survives after the first shot is fired, right?!
Love the way that the wood tells you how the boat will be built. Also love the way that you talk to the wood. This is going to be a beautiful boat. Thanks for these great videos. Earl Connecticut
Hi Lou, watching all the vids in preparation to build this boat. Not sure if I'll have time to start this spring but hopefully on the water in 2024, depending on finances and work. May have mentioned before I like that you build like a carpenter, not a cabinet or furniture maker. I also use Power planers, Makita and Bosch, for many types of projects in regular carpentry. I have done a fair amount of radiused work walls, roofs and even some interior trim and railings both interior and deck railings. Used West with fillers, etc. Will look into Total One product, seems easier to use. * On the hammer you found...definitely masonry, my thinking just to chip stone to fit in building dry walls. * Look forward to any other comments, carpenter here, no expert.
This is Hybrid ship building to the extreme. I do wonder how the different materials will work after a few decades, though the strength will surely be incredible!!! Good Luck! Balkan Shipyards
Great video as always Lou.I spent alot of time in that shop as a kid,many memories there. Glad my brother was there to lend a hand,looking forward to some more videos.
That 'hammer-adze' is exactly like a dutch mason's hammer (a bit larger than I'm used to). Indeed, scoring the line with the flat of the hammer and then separating the halves with the blunt. If the halved stone is not as flat as desired, the flat of the hammer is used to nibble away until satisfied.. Nice to see your adaptation to adze-like use! 😎
Wonderful to watch and fabulous to listen to as ever. I am continually enthralled Lou. May I suggest that you and your viewers take a look at Nick on Bothan Boats who is embarking on restoring a small 80 year old carvel gaffer in Scotland and he has mentioned several times how he is using your techniques. Great viewing. Best wishes
I saw the same tool used in Albania. They were putting in a hand chiseled patio. They all sat on stools with 1 leg so they could move side to side as needed. Pretty neat!
I designed and started building a 18" V-bottom skiff around this time last year. It was the second boat I ever built, i'm impressed with myself after watching the progression of your boat because I built it in nearly the exact same method as your 23 footer. Including the use of an electric plane for the progressive bevels. Mine is a bit different in that it has a round stern and an outboard well.
Love the video. I think you are right about the tool. Also I like the design of the keel. I made a 8 foot sailing dory years ago. That is the extent of my boat building days.
Thanks for another great video Lou and crew. I see Lou uses an inside reading folding rule, that is my favorite too. If you haven't in a past video maybe give it a mention in the future as to why you prefer it. I know the reasons I do, but I'm thinking of others who may not.
Googled the hammer and you were right, came from Europe and they had pictures of many examples that looked like yours, the short handle on most would indicate close in work as you surmised
I would love to build one of these some day soon! I'm currently 1st year leatherworker, but I wish to build my own boats like these or the classic sports kind used in Indiana Jones when the other ship smashes them
I see they haven't sent you a battery plane yet, Lou ?? Maybe you could try Makita ??? Thanks once again for your enthusiasm , skill, and willingness to share your extensive knowledge, cheers Keith.
Can barely wait for this boat to get into the water! So, when using the bandsaw i noticed the first skiff of the youtube series sitting in the background? I thought it was sold and some lucky person was enjoying the craftsmanship of it?
Hi Louis, enjoyed this video on the keel. Almost had a panic attack seeing you start up the ships saw with the lower wheel running almost without a safety guide. Imagine getting yourself stuck inside that revolving wheel ? I know, you may say no big deal but at 65 years of age with engineering experience I think it is a dangerous thing to do. Kick me if I'm wrong but please close the gap with a guard. 😎
The sharp end of the hammer is not really used that way though I suppose it could. That would be to make it a tracer. But rather its used the same way as the similar end of a brick hammer to break off more precise sized pieces or chip off protuberances. In this matter it is used as the hammer version of a hand tool called a chipper. The square blunt end is used as the hammer version of what is called a hand set. Its for primarily breaking away wavy edges from a short distance in from the edge to produce a straight crisp squarish edge. Those square ends make it useful as what is called a mash hammer or what is also called a trimmer. These types of hammers have also been known as pick hammers. You can look up the Trow and Holden Stonemasonry Tool catalog and see some of these chisels. Goldblatt Tools has a 16 oz 'bricklayers hammer' that you can compare with yours, though yours is more specialized and for larger harder masonry. (I'm a restoration mason)
Pay it forward Lou. That hammer has given you a lot of enjoyment. Maybe you should fasten it in between the floor and the planking of the skiff for some future person to discover 100 years from now when they rebuild your skiff.
I have seen this tool used for low cost, good quality road base building in Asia: Rough hand stones buried in gravel in fitting height by the 'spade' and cicked in accurate level by the hammer.
Hi lou I am inclined to call your converted adz a paving hammer used in cobble stone work. I had to do some looking around and found the exact tool that you showed. I do have a coopers adz in my personal privative tool collection but not being real computer savvy i do not really know how i could post it. I am really looking forward to seeing how the split keel board is going to work out. see you soon greg leak in jefferson city mo.
I was thinking cooper's adze myself until you said cobbler's chip hammer. I think you may be right. A cooper's adze should have a curve to the blade end of about a 3.5 to 4 foot circumference, depending on the size of barrel or cask it was uses to make. If the blade is straight, the a cobblers hammer does make more sense.
Lou, couldn't you use a longer "arm: on your electric plane and rest it on the chine so it would maintain the proper angle as you moved along the keelson? It might be a little cumbersome but I would think you could use it as a jig of sorts to help establish the angle.
Another great video, was that a dory in the background at 10.00 when you were resawing the keel ? It’s a lovely looking boat and the size I am interested in is that featured in your previous videos Stay safe 🦠🧼🙌🏻 from Ireland
I think you're dead on with that tool being a masonry hammer of sorts. I was recently given a small box of tools that belonged to someone who passed away. There were a few people between me and the original owner and as such I didn't get the story on who they belonged to and they type of work they did. There was a very similar hammer in the box. Based on some of the tools I was familiar with and some research about some I wasn't, I came to the conclusion they belonged to someone who did masonry work. Oddly enough, my first thought was something along the lines of sharpening the blunt blade type end into an adze much as you did.
Additional comment: The road base is covered with stabilizing gravel and finally with sand/clay. Mason's hammer has a much shorter 'spade' and a slot for extracting nails.
Re yr Adze: I watched a video on coopers making barrels from 1949 and no adze was used, they used heat to put the bends in the staves. It would be very labor-intensive to do the same work with an adze and they would have been markedly weaker. Here is the vid: th-cam.com/video/x-msgT71xek/w-d-xo.html
Louis, The layer of fiberglass between the planking will not add anything to the build. It will only increase the weight and cost. The outer layer is what will add strength. Think about sandwich laminate techniques. The strength comes from the tensile and flexural modulus of the outer laminate. The stiffness comes from the thickness of the core (theoretically). Save yourself the trouble and skip the inner fiberglass.
in greek island they use a hammer like he show on 14.45 for boat building and dead rise flatty makers also use that hammer there is one you tube doc on dead rise flatty he use it all the way to bevel kiel and stem and all arround its old a delian league of hellenistic ages
If the outer layer of carbon-fibre is punctured, water will gradually soak the wood in between the two waterproof layers and there will be no way to dry it.
Seems as though most any kind of bevel will do on the keel and it would be much easier to match the short ends of the bottom planking to a sawn bevel on the keel. But I am no shipwright.
I don't agree on the use of the hammer. It is too light-weight for me. Cobble sets are pretty big. It just looks like an adze to me, maybe for cooperage. It is not a heavy-weight tool.
Hate to disagree, but no, its not a railroad hammer. I worked track repair for the Union Pacific for 2 summers and a semester while in grad school in the early 70's and swung many a hammer. A spike hammer or "maul" had 2 faces on it to hit spikes. Those mauls are narrower and longer than a sledge hammer, to reach over rail and concentrate the force on the spike. (Every time you hit a spike it would leave a small dent. You should be able to knock down a spike in a tie in 3 hits and cover all the dents with a dime. But I digress.) They did have chisels--I have one--to actually cut rail which was done long before I worked for the UP. But, the tool Lou has has too fine a cutting edge. A rail cutting chisel has a more blunt cutting edge and is not curved. I've used mine for a second wedge for splitting wood--when the primary wedge gets stuck. The rail cutting chisel would have a handle in it so one person could hold it in place and a 2nd person would hit the hammer end with a maul to score the rail. The rail would supposedly be scored all around or on 3 sides (?) and then the rail could be struck hard with a maul and broken. I seem to recall that we did use the chisels for breaking bolts that attached rails together when you couldn't use wrenches (knuckle busters--have one of those too). From what I can see on the internet, Lou's tool is definitely for rock or stone.
@@bobcougar77 the nice thing about a power plane is they don't much care about grain. You're not going to get a great finish going against the grain, but they will eat (if they don't clog)
i cued up a few minutes of this almost hour long carbon fiber air craft skin video from mike patey that i would like you to see for your fiberglass work.. th-cam.com/video/nnMxrvAf1ZU/w-d-xo.html. when mike patey does big sheets of carbon fiber. he puts down plastic sheeting on the work bench.. lays the carbon material on that. then soaks it in resin.. uses the plastic film to support the carbon material while he is setting it in place.. so it does not get all stretched out of shape.. i don't know if you have a big enough work bench to do that in your shop.. and its only an idea that you might or might not use.. back in the 80s.. on. a 104' with a similar bottom shape to what you are building we used almost 220 gallons of epoxy (4 drums) gluing together the plywood deck panels and then coming back with layers of fiberglass.. we glued everything together with epoxy, cabosil, phoenolic resin, and pearlite mixed in the epoxy.. then sprayed on probably 14 gallons of white imron paint.. the fore deck was so bright you had to wear sunglasses up there to work..
Lou is the only person that I know that can intermix fiberglass in a wood boat project and not get run out of the room on rails. Great stuff! Thank you for your progressive ideas Lou!
Purists can be funny. Like as if back in the day they wouldn't have used a product that would make everything stronger and more waterproof...
Your craftsmanship is outstanding Maestro Sauzedde! I’ve learned so many practical and ingenious tips from this perfectly named channel. The gauge for marking the keel was jaw dropping! Thank you!
Louis' energy and enthusiasm is great to see
Thank you Lou for sharing this build with everyone. That bottom lamination is going to be massively strong. Every video I watch of yours gives me new insight on building and very handy tricks on fitting the many pieces of a boat together. Again, thank you and take care.
Loving this. Never seen a boat constructed like this before, so I am fascinated to see it develop. Thanks Louis.
pretty complicated.....not a backyard build
@@richarddegen6184 To my eyes, this seems like a concept I find easier to grasp. Previously I have been involved in building from lofting and drawings. This method suits the way my brain works. A lot of the work, once on the strongback, is about using your eyes and finding a fair line, even if using plans, anyway. No plan survives after the first shot is fired, right?!
Love the way that the wood tells you how the boat will be built. Also love the way that you talk to the wood. This is going to be a beautiful boat. Thanks for these great videos.
Earl
Connecticut
Hi Lou, watching all the vids in preparation to build this boat. Not sure if I'll have time to start this spring but hopefully on the water in 2024, depending on finances and work.
May have mentioned before I like that you build like a carpenter, not a cabinet or furniture maker. I also use Power planers, Makita and Bosch, for many types of projects in regular carpentry.
I have done a fair amount of radiused work walls, roofs and even some interior trim and railings both interior and deck railings. Used West with fillers, etc.
Will look into Total One product, seems easier to use.
* On the hammer you found...definitely masonry, my thinking just to chip stone to fit in building dry walls. *
Look forward to any other comments, carpenter here, no expert.
Yet another super video, Lou! Pity they're so far between, says greedy me! Thank you!
What can I say except it's fun and interesting to watch.Thanks Lou
After that dry spell, I am super excited to see all these videos getting pumped out! I need to go get my flat-bottomed skiff coaster for my coffee.
Built like a Tank. Incredibly impressive boatbuilding . Thank you for sharing 🙏
Thank you, Louis! Can't wait to see you lay the planking and fiberglass it and the keel.
These videos are great. Keep them coming. Thank you.
thanks lou & team
Im looking at building a boat here in Australia. This is great prep for what i'm going to be facing
Gosh, I can only imagine the strength of the sandwiched/laminated/glassed construction on the bottom. Very awesome to see the process.
This is Hybrid ship building to the extreme. I do wonder how the different materials will work after a few decades, though the strength will surely be incredible!!! Good Luck! Balkan Shipyards
Great video as always Lou.I spent alot of time in that shop as a kid,many memories there. Glad my brother was there to lend a hand,looking forward to some more videos.
Always a pleasure to watch a talented craftsman
You can use his knowledge of boats to build models to sail boats love it.
That 'hammer-adze' is exactly like a dutch mason's hammer (a bit larger than I'm used to). Indeed, scoring the line with the flat of the hammer and then separating the halves with the blunt. If the halved stone is not as flat as desired, the flat of the hammer is used to nibble away until satisfied.. Nice to see your adaptation to adze-like use! 😎
Wonderful to watch and fabulous to listen to as ever. I am continually enthralled Lou. May I suggest that you and your viewers take a look at Nick on Bothan Boats who is embarking on restoring a small 80 year old carvel gaffer in Scotland and he has mentioned several times how he is using your techniques. Great viewing. Best wishes
I think you're right, my uncle was a stone mason from Scotland and I seem to remember a tool very similar.
I saw the same tool used in Albania. They were putting in a hand chiseled patio. They all sat on stools with 1 leg so they could move side to side as needed. Pretty neat!
“I made this marking gauge” look like a fish. “ it’s ok. It’s all that’s needed to get the job done” Lou, you’re the best at what you do.
Looking great and all making more sense!
I designed and started building a 18" V-bottom skiff around this time last year. It was the second boat I ever built, i'm impressed with myself after watching the progression of your boat because I built it in nearly the exact same method as your 23 footer. Including the use of an electric plane for the progressive bevels. Mine is a bit different in that it has a round stern and an outboard well.
Your bottom design looks really strong and durable.
Love the video. I think you are right about the tool. Also I like the design of the keel. I made a 8 foot sailing dory years ago. That is the extent of my boat building days.
Fine workmanship, Lou.
Your work is beautiful to watch. Thanks so much for sharing.
Happy that you agree it's some sort of cobblestone/masonry hammer Lou. This is a great series and I hope to one day build a similar boat.
It is interesting to watch the work of the master! Good luck!
top shelf Lou . the tool i have seen something like that at the stone Masson in Adelaide so maybe iam sure some one will know
Thanks for another great video Lou and crew. I see Lou uses an inside reading folding rule, that is my favorite too. If you haven't in a past video maybe give it a mention in the future as to why you prefer it. I know the reasons I do, but I'm thinking of others who may not.
Googled the hammer and you were right, came from Europe and they had pictures of many examples that looked like yours, the short handle on most would indicate close in work as you surmised
Just Beautiful work!
Well, I googled "cobblestone hammer" and what came back was exactly what Lou is using.
Great design Louis, love the videos!
How I’d love to own that boat. So beautiful.
It would also be excellent for asphault as like. Granite when you tap it it also cracks and cuts snaps in a line too that is a nice hammar / Adz too
I would love to build one of these some day soon! I'm currently 1st year leatherworker, but I wish to build my own boats like these or the classic sports kind used in Indiana Jones when the other ship smashes them
Completely agree it’s a Cobblestone Hammer.
I see they haven't sent you a battery plane yet, Lou ?? Maybe you could try Makita ??? Thanks once again for your enthusiasm , skill, and willingness to share your extensive knowledge, cheers Keith.
Can barely wait for this boat to get into the water! So, when using the bandsaw i noticed the first skiff of the youtube series sitting in the background? I thought it was sold and some lucky person was enjoying the craftsmanship of it?
its probably another skiff being built to order.
@@rayk.5833 You're right!
Hi Louis, enjoyed this video on the keel. Almost had a panic attack seeing you start up the ships saw with the lower wheel running almost without a safety guide. Imagine getting yourself stuck inside that revolving wheel ? I know, you may say no big deal but at 65 years of age with engineering experience I think it is a dangerous thing to do. Kick me if I'm wrong but please close the gap with a guard. 😎
That boat is going to be a tank Lou.
Will there be access into the void below the sole planking when the skiff is completed?
The sharp end of the hammer is not really used that way though I suppose it could. That would be to make it a tracer. But rather its used the same way as the similar end of a brick hammer to break off more precise sized pieces or chip off protuberances. In this matter it is used as the hammer version of a hand tool called a chipper. The square blunt end is used as the hammer version of what is called a hand set. Its for primarily breaking away wavy edges from a short distance in from the edge to produce a straight crisp squarish edge. Those square ends make it useful as what is called a mash hammer or what is also called a trimmer. These types of hammers have also been known as pick hammers. You can look up the Trow and Holden Stonemasonry Tool catalog and see some of these chisels. Goldblatt Tools has a 16 oz 'bricklayers hammer' that you can compare with yours, though yours is more specialized and for larger harder masonry. (I'm a restoration mason)
Pay it forward Lou. That hammer has given you a lot of enjoyment. Maybe you should fasten it in between the floor and the planking of the skiff for some future person to discover 100 years from now when they rebuild your skiff.
I have seen this tool used for low cost, good quality road base building in Asia: Rough hand stones buried in gravel in fitting height by the 'spade' and cicked in accurate level by the hammer.
Of all the people on youtube with patreon accounts I somehow want Lois to get rich the most.
"a three foot yardstick" Jealous! mine is only two foot six... Nice work Louis.
Then your yardstick is broken.😉
@@thomasarussellsr It was fine, until I had to get it through a 30 inch door.
Hi lou I am inclined to call your converted adz a paving hammer used in cobble stone work. I had to do some looking around and found the exact tool that you showed. I do have a coopers adz in my personal privative tool collection but not being real computer savvy i do not really know how i could post it. I am really looking forward to seeing how the split keel board is going to work out. see you soon greg leak in jefferson city mo.
I love your videos. Just curious what kind of wood is good for building these boats
The tool looks much like a modern Brickies (Brick layers) hammer/pick, so I reckon it's for masonry, as you and other say.
The boat in the back ground when you where using the ship saw? was that the work skiff from your first series?
Another great video! Will the fiberglass hold moisture against the wood making it rot?
It is a cobblestone hammer. If you goggle it there are plenty of pictures showing what you have.
It looks like the tool Ernie Moore used to chop/ plane the flat and cutout areas on the Keel. He makes his keels out of solid timbers.
First thing that came to mind with the hammer is that it would be great for shaping stone
I thought you auctioned of the flat bottom skiff project but it was in the background when you were splitting the keel on the bandsaw?
thx for upload and teaching !!!
I was thinking cooper's adze myself until you said cobbler's chip hammer. I think you may be right. A cooper's adze should have a curve to the blade end of about a 3.5 to 4 foot circumference, depending on the size of barrel or cask it was uses to make. If the blade is straight, the a cobblers hammer does make more sense.
Lou, couldn't you use a longer "arm: on your electric plane and rest it on the chine so it would maintain the proper angle as you moved along the keelson? It might be a little cumbersome but I would think you could use it as a jig of sorts to help establish the angle.
was thinking the same. I've seen knife sharpeners use something similar.
Another great video, was that a dory in the background at 10.00 when you were resawing the keel ? It’s a lovely looking boat and the size I am interested in is that featured in your previous videos
Stay safe 🦠🧼🙌🏻 from Ireland
Could you attach and extension like you did for chine board to plane keelson while referencing to keel board as you go, just thinking 🤔
At the minute it's just a hand adze no1, change the handle to a shorter shaft and it's a coppers adze. 👍
Its definitely a masons hammer, looks just like my old eastwing just bigger
I'm curious: why the number 5 and not the 4? I would have thought the 4, because it's shorter and could get in tighter on a curve. Or even a 3.
Yes I agree thats the way to do it if you know your tool skills , about half "rack of eye ' as the old timers would have said .
Sweet!
The tool could be an early “scutch” hammer if it was found in a stone wall.
Bottom wheel on that ship saw looks dangerous AF.
Hmm.. Is there going to be any pertruding part on the keel?
I think you're dead on with that tool being a masonry hammer of sorts. I was recently given a small box of tools that belonged to someone who passed away. There were a few people between me and the original owner and as such I didn't get the story on who they belonged to and they type of work they did. There was a very similar hammer in the box. Based on some of the tools I was familiar with and some research about some I wasn't, I came to the conclusion they belonged to someone who did masonry work. Oddly enough, my first thought was something along the lines of sharpening the blunt blade type end into an adze much as you did.
I think the progression on the keel would be easy to cut with your magic skil saw then plain.
It would be nice if the company could build planers to your specifications.
Additional comment: The road base is covered with stabilizing gravel and finally with sand/clay. Mason's hammer has a much shorter 'spade' and a slot for extracting nails.
Looks like a pick with one side cut off
There's the old flat bottom skiff. I thought it was sold?
100% cobblestone hammer ⚒
@ 14:34 my eyes glazed over
Re yr Adze: I watched a video on coopers making barrels from 1949 and no adze was used, they used heat to put the bends in the staves. It would be very labor-intensive to do the same work with an adze and they would have been markedly weaker. Here is the vid: th-cam.com/video/x-msgT71xek/w-d-xo.html
ITS A BRICK HAMMER FOR MASONS
Louis, The layer of fiberglass between the planking will not add anything to the build. It will only increase the weight and cost. The outer layer is what will add strength. Think about sandwich laminate techniques. The strength comes from the tensile and flexural modulus of the outer laminate. The stiffness comes from the thickness of the core (theoretically). Save yourself the trouble and skip the inner fiberglass.
Lois the tool you have is for hollowing center of liftoff set log on log
Hey Lou, how will you treat/paint the inside surfaces when start planking?
I'd bet that he's gonna varnish the inside to really bring out the beauty of all that quarter sawn white oak.
👍👍🙂
in greek island they use a hammer like he show on 14.45 for boat building and dead rise flatty makers also use that hammer there is one you tube doc on dead rise flatty he use it all the way to bevel kiel and stem and all arround its old a delian league of hellenistic ages
If the outer layer of carbon-fibre is punctured, water will gradually soak the wood in between the two waterproof layers and there will be no way to dry it.
My dentist uses one of those hammers
Seems as though most any kind of bevel will do on the keel and it would be much easier to match the short ends of the bottom planking to a sawn bevel on the keel. But I am no shipwright.
I don't agree on the use of the hammer. It is too light-weight for me. Cobble sets are pretty big. It just looks like an adze to me, maybe for cooperage. It is not a heavy-weight tool.
This hammer looks like a masonry hammer. The beak is ised to split bricks.
If the handle was longer I would say it's a railroad spike hammer.
Hate to disagree, but no, its not a railroad hammer. I worked track repair for the Union Pacific for 2 summers and a semester while in grad school in the early 70's and swung many a hammer. A spike hammer or "maul" had 2 faces on it to hit spikes. Those mauls are narrower and longer than a sledge hammer, to reach over rail and concentrate the force on the spike. (Every time you hit a spike it would leave a small dent. You should be able to knock down a spike in a tie in 3 hits and cover all the dents with a dime. But I digress.) They did have chisels--I have one--to actually cut rail which was done long before I worked for the UP. But, the tool Lou has has too fine a cutting edge. A rail cutting chisel has a more blunt cutting edge and is not curved. I've used mine for a second wedge for splitting wood--when the primary wedge gets stuck. The rail cutting chisel would have a handle in it so one person could hold it in place and a 2nd person would hit the hammer end with a maul to score the rail. The rail would supposedly be scored all around or on 3 sides (?) and then the rail could be struck hard with a maul and broken. I seem to recall that we did use the chisels for breaking bolts that attached rails together when you couldn't use wrenches (knuckle busters--have one of those too). From what I can see on the internet, Lou's tool is definitely for rock or stone.
Thwre is many hours to be a boat builder
I don't think the electric plane is any faster than an adze* or a drawknife
But maybe it's more controllable. 😉
Boy I sure do. Those little buggers just eat wood. But then again I've never used an adze... So there's that :)
@@bobcougar77 the nice thing about a power plane is they don't much care about grain.
You're not going to get a great finish going against the grain, but they will eat (if they don't clog)
Brick hammer in sweden.
i cued up a few minutes of this almost hour long carbon fiber air craft skin video from mike patey that i would like you to see for your fiberglass work.. th-cam.com/video/nnMxrvAf1ZU/w-d-xo.html. when mike patey does big sheets of carbon fiber. he puts down plastic sheeting on the work bench.. lays the carbon material on that. then soaks it in resin.. uses the plastic film to support the carbon material while he is setting it in place.. so it does not get all stretched out of shape.. i don't know if you have a big enough work bench to do that in your shop.. and its only an idea that you might or might not use..
back in the 80s.. on. a 104' with a similar bottom shape to what you are building we used almost 220 gallons of epoxy (4 drums) gluing together the plywood deck panels and then coming back with layers of fiberglass.. we glued everything together with epoxy, cabosil, phoenolic resin, and pearlite mixed in the epoxy.. then sprayed on probably 14 gallons of white imron paint.. the fore deck was so bright you had to wear sunglasses up there to work..
Looks like a brick axe...