Use the warranty. You’ll still have $4000 left. If the motor goes. You would have spent that $1000 out of pocket either way. If nothing goes wrong and the warranty expires then you spent $1000 out of pocket instead of using any of the warranty. I always say use the warranty. What if never happens
$1,000 for rebuilding the rear limited slip is absolutely insane. Do it yourself, it is really easy! Maybe put new spider gears in there while you're at it. Buy them ahead of time just in case. Nothing needs to be removed in regards to the pinion or ring gear. Remove wheels, partially disassemble brakes, remove center pin in differential, push in axles, remove C clips, pull axles out, bam, you're almost there. Did it on a Ford 8.8 myself!
Randy, when I was in college I worked a summer job for a farmer. My job was primarily to drive the wheat trucks from the fields to COOP. Anyhow, this particular summer this farmer had bought a new combine, I think it was 225 thousand dollars. That evening as we were locking things up I couldn't help but ask why was he parking the old combine in the barn and the new tractor sits outside? He said, without missing a beat, the new combine has fresh pain and clear coat protection and will wistand the weather better than what the old tractor would. With this method I can keep my old tractor looking good while doing minimal if no damage to my new tractor. Not that I was looking for an argument, but his logic seemed sound, that's a reasonable thing to think. With that nugget of knowledge, I too now park my old cars in the garage and my new cars sit outside for this very reason. I'm probably just as nuts as the farmer so, consider that as you contemplate what I just wrote. So that can be your reason for parking the new cars outside and the junk in the garage. If you need any other backwards advice, I can be your go to guy. Take care, keep up the good work!
I rebuilt my rear end in my 1995 Mustang GT, new bearings and seals. Installed 3:73 gears replace the clutches with the ones in the Cobra Mustang. Did this in my garage in a day so Randy I believe you can do it also and save a bundle of money.
Working at Ford I saw this scenario occur many times. The truck looks well maintained and probably someone serviced the rear end and put a none positrac fluid in it. Should work great
I would mess with fluid first. I had a Ranger fx4 with an 8.8 in rear. Started whining and felt chattery, for lack of a better term. Changed fluid out with amsoil (not an amsoil nut, I'm sure other synthetics perform well too), and it made a huge difference. Was completely smooth and quiet, and actually saw a slight increase in mpg (I track every fill-up). There's also always junkyard axles...
Randy, Go out in walley world's parking lot and do full lock left and right steering figure 8 driving patterns to get the friction additive into the clutches of the posi-trac. About 3 sets of each pattern. Also make sure the electric lock differential is not engaged. Push the 4 wheel drive knob selector in. Out is electric differential lock. Good Luck!
I had a CTS with the limited slip rear end that was making all kinds of clunking and chatter. Figured I'd change the diff oil with the friction modifier before tearing into it and that completely fixed the issue.
The GM differentials do not use clutch packs and do not need a friction modifier as far as I am aware. I would assume they are using something equivalent to what a G80 is in that Cadillac CTS. Not sure! If they aren't using clutch packs in their big trucks I wouldn't think they would in their luxury crossovers.
@@Guillotines_For_Globalists G80 is what it said on the option sheet on mine! I just know that GM called for a limited slip additive - I'm assuming that's the same thing as a friction modifier. Maybe not!
@@randym119 The G80 does not rely on clutches though. I have read numerous times that no friction modifier is needed when your setup doesn't use clutches. Here's a quick read, I just searched; www.silveradosierra.com/transmission/g80-fluid-type-t633330.html Someone mentioned that their G80 behaved worse with the limited slip additive.
hey randy I have done those blend door actuators before and the dash DOES NOT need to come out for the passenger side only the driver. there are plenty of videos on youtube but feel free to message me if u have any questions. the updated motorcraft part is around $54 from the dealer
Gonna guess friction modifier for the clutches in the diff. That will do exactly what you describe. I knew it! I bet it fixes it Randy! The modifier breaks down over time.
Engine sounds pretty normal to me my friend, its just the DI , i have a 2012 3.5 ecoboost f150 xlt that just tripped 89k miles. And it sounds very similar 🤙🏻
Before I did my axle seals my 2004 chattered, skidded and hopped especially in tight turns on pavement like parking lots. After a drain, seal replacement and refill with synthetic oil and friction modifier it's smooth as butter for 5 years now.
You can easily get to the blend door actuator without pulling the dash. I replaced mine in ~30min, pulling the center stack and sitting in the passenger seat. Yeah, it's tight, but it's definitely doable. Make sure you get the Ford OEM part and not a Dorman aftermarket, though. The Dorman is taller is will be more difficult to install as a result. I'd stay far, far away from Ford lug nuts. Yes, they look nicer, but they're made of cheese and won't hold up over time. Gorilla does a nice splined lug nut kit.
I used to have a similar issue with my BMW. the diff would make noise only at low speeds. Changed the fluid and made sure it was all the way filled, and the problem was fixed.
If you like the way the F150 drives, try a 2020 Ram. It’s the quietest smoothest, quietest vehicle of any kind I ever been in. That includes Town Car, Grand Marquis, Mercedes, nothing compares.
That Monkey Wrench Mike's a great guy. Another great day of content and i thought you knew about that step. That was a quirk and feature that i'm sure everyone knew about. Lovin' this truck.
Put a catch can on the Eco Boost if you plan on keeping it. Direct injection engines do not clean the crud off the intake valve coming from the PVC so the catch can removes the gunk.
mine was jerking, and acting crazy, i changed the plugs and been running smooth, that was 6wks ago. i’ve never had a truck miss as hard as this one, and i’ve had a ton of coil packs go out before, but always had 8 cylinders, not 6
I'd take it apart and fix it myself, its not hard to overhaul the limited slip diff. I would suggest some Lucas also... Since they added it, go drive it around in circles, say 10 times to the right, then repeat to the left, to make the clutches slip and work the friction modifier in...
16:30 my eco boost sounds the same , nothing to worry about. They sound best when you get the turbos spinning @ high rpm up a hill @ full throttle, try it ! I was a V8 guy up until I drove one of these eco beasts. I still love the sound of a V8 though !
Randy take the truck and do some figure 8s in a parking lot. That will work the additive into the clutches it might take some time but it should work , the process have been around for a long time . Good luck !
I would use the warranty, if you don't expect to keep the truck for long like you normally do. And I would check the car model normal issues, so I could tell , how much is to fix it.2011 even in high mileage should not give you bad headaches with the motor ( I think). But you are the pro here.
You need to work that stuff into the clutch packs. To do so, find an empty parking lot and make several (five to ten) extremely tight (hard as you can cramp the wheel,) turns both right and left. Going straight down the road doesn't work the clutches that hard, tight turns makes the clutches move around and get bathed in the modifier/oil!! Seen it work many times!!
That noise is the high pressure fuel pump. It's normal. Drive slowly in a circle in a parking lot few time both right and left to allow the friction modifier to work into the clutch plates. (Mechanic for 50 years.)
Memories from my 2005 f150 I had some noise like you describe. It ended the wheel bearing where cooked and it damage the clutch and the gears. This is known by trans. and dif. specialist to be the week spot on those Ford. Have another estimate from an independant specialist. and i'll used the warranty to cover the dif. cost. Maybe you engine already been overhaul??? Other thing Do a flush of your heating system It might be just clogged. Will cost time and some coolant. It did fix mine for 6 years. You could NAME the thing GOLD DIGGER
I'd call the truck 'Bucky' because of rear problems. Use the warranty as you don't hang on to them long anyway, lol. Anybody's guess if that friction stuff works. Might be better to just have everything back there fixed right with 200,000 miles. Thanks for sharing.
Funny....I had the opposite with Bob Moore Ford. Around 2011, I had a 2010 F-150 that was leaking from the rear differential (where the tubes are pressed in to the pumpkin). Bob Moore said that it was normal for it to be "wet" around those areas. Ended up selling the truck.
On my 2010 Grand Marquis I have the blender problem. On it you can press a couple of buttons to reset it. So far I have had to do that about 4 times in 2 years. Eventually I will have to have a new one. Yep, $900-1000 to replace it. Columbia Jackets from Portland, Oregon. Gert Boyle died November 3, 2019 at age 95.
Gold truck has the timing chain tick problem like the other vehicle you had with that noise. Pull everything off the front of the motor. Harmonic balance then timing chain covers replace chains and guides put it back together. Have the mechanic that comes to your house do it for you. I use to replace timing chains on my old cars its not the hardest or impossible job to do.
Just a FYI, the blend door actuator for the passenger side vents sits behind the radio/ dash vent right to the right of the radio. Dash removal is NOT required (unless you're doing the actuator for the driver side vents)
@@1webbie got a 2013 Hyundai sonata that went through copart and was sold to be from the dude that bought it from copart with a rebuild title(here in okc). That car killed it's engine at 90k miles and the dealership replaced it for free because the original owner purchased the extended warranty. They said the warranty stays with the car. Oh and the car still has visible/totaling damage to the body. (Nothing major/small ripple in rear quarter)
You mentioned Warranty company...could you elaborate a little more--or did you buy this truck at a dealer? and I'd use the warranty for the rear end--that engine will go atleast 250k. My 1998 F150 4x4 XLT, that I've owned for 14 years, and paid $8575 (sticker price) has 230,000ish miles (odometer stopped working--1 year) will never be replaced. If EVEN YOU paid 10K for a 200k mile truck---My old girl will get a new engine when (if?) this one decides to stop working. Fluid changes everyone--that is the key. Oil every 3-5k----Coolant and Transmission flush per recommended. Differentials changed at 120k and might get done again this summer. She just got back from a MTB trip to Rays in Cleveland. 6 hour trip both ways.
Many Stealerships always quote $1000 for blend door replacement by dash removal, because that is "good money" for them if they find enough suckers. Changed three actuators under dash in my 2011 Jeep GC without removing the dash. Two were easily accessable after removing the glove box. The driver's side required removing the panel below the steering wheel. Go to official FORD parts ordering website and find the parts and SCHEMATIC for the A/C system under dash "box" so you can learn the locations of the actuators. Then look under dash and look for them. What videos to learn how to remove the GLOVE BOX. Glove box removed gives you LOTS of ACCESS. Don't fear the reaper!
I would fix the blend door myself. Would make great video content. Only caution I have is look up ways of getting to it without completely removing from the vehicle. Hint: remove the seats first.
Use the warranty. You may never use it again and then at least you got something out of it. Worst case, you spend the $1000 later instead of now. Also, have an independent shop quote the blend door. May be cheaper and help with eventual resale.
The vacuum blend door controls are always a problem ,, usually it's not the actuators ,, just the control box.. you can fix it yourself without taking out the dash. Get the latest update part from Ford.
You can fix that blend door yourself..not the entire dash has to be removed Glovebox, center stack, and passenger airbag. The sticking blend door sits behind the radio. You can actually see it from the glovebox. There's a few yt videos on doing it.
randy glad to hear its better and i hope that solve the problem but just so ya know you can get a a new rear end cheaper than 1000 bucks so just keep that as an option also besides i think the viewers would love to see ya take on a big project
Takes quite a few miles for the friction additive to work it’s way into the clutches,and the noise could be the air pump on the back of the motor,changed a few in the past
Engine sound totally normal! Between the direct injection and the high pressure fuel pump up by the driver side firewall your going to have some sounds.
Personally, it depends on if you are truly planning on keeping the truck... if you plan on keeping the truck, spend the cash on getting the diff fixed instead of eating $1000 of your extended warranty. If you're not going to keep the truck for very long, then just put it on the extended warranty. Also, curious as to where you got your TPMS sensors.... got a link for the sensors you'd be willing to share? Thanks in advance, and keep up the great videos!
I'd put the new clutches in the rear end myself and save the money . Also the transmission will fail before the engine so I'd save it he warranty for that as well . Good luck Randy 👍
Use the warranty. You’ll still have $4000 left. If the motor goes. You would have spent that $1000 out of pocket either way. If nothing goes wrong and the warranty expires then you spent $1000 out of pocket instead of using any of the warranty. I always say use the warranty. What if never happens
Yep use the warranty. Take the $1000 and pretend like you used it and set it aside.
I have a 2012 lariat eco boost, engine sounds just like that and it runs like a dream. It’s perfectly normal
$1,000 for rebuilding the rear limited slip is absolutely insane. Do it yourself, it is really easy! Maybe put new spider gears in there while you're at it. Buy them ahead of time just in case. Nothing needs to be removed in regards to the pinion or ring gear. Remove wheels, partially disassemble brakes, remove center pin in differential, push in axles, remove C clips, pull axles out, bam, you're almost there. Did it on a Ford 8.8 myself!
That's the kinda money it would cost to put a for 10" diff in my CTSV.....
PLUS, good content $$!
I have had to put spider gears in 2 ford pu's .
Blaine Bugaski do you need any special tools to get the job done?
call it "gold digger" she's already started taking your money 😂😂
Randy, when I was in college I worked a summer job for a farmer. My job was primarily to drive the wheat trucks from the fields to COOP. Anyhow, this particular summer this farmer had bought a new combine, I think it was 225 thousand dollars. That evening as we were locking things up I couldn't help but ask why was he parking the old combine in the barn and the new tractor sits outside? He said, without missing a beat, the new combine has fresh pain and clear coat protection and will wistand the weather better than what the old tractor would. With this method I can keep my old tractor looking good while doing minimal if no damage to my new tractor. Not that I was looking for an argument, but his logic seemed sound, that's a reasonable thing to think. With that nugget of knowledge, I too now park my old cars in the garage and my new cars sit outside for this very reason. I'm probably just as nuts as the farmer so, consider that as you contemplate what I just wrote.
So that can be your reason for parking the new cars outside and the junk in the garage.
If you need any other backwards advice, I can be your go to guy.
Take care, keep up the good work!
I take my mother-in-law to bed with me, 'cause my wife is still young and pretty with so few miles. M-in-Law is already depreciated. < sarcasm >
Monkey wrench mike is a wonderful guy I respect him a million times more than tks garage
They are both nice
They're both really nice guys, your comparing apples to cactus. Mike's More polished, TK"s rough around the edges. Still both are great guys
TK is too wanna be G thug for me. That’s just my .02
Watching his videos with this truck has given me confidence in high mileage ecoboost F150's.
That is a beautiful truck. As for the engine sound, I have a 2019 Ecoboost with 4000 miles and it sounds the same.
😂😂😂😂
Yes very normal. It’s injectors
The ecobeasts are supposed to sound like that. I'm a Ford technician and all of them sound like that. Nothing to worry about man.
xPHEONIX GAMINGx *I was wondering the same thing...* 🤔
They seem to get louder with higher mileage.
I rebuilt my rear end in my 1995 Mustang GT, new bearings and seals. Installed 3:73 gears replace the clutches with the ones in the Cobra Mustang. Did this in my garage in a day so Randy I believe you can do it also and save a bundle of money.
Working at Ford I saw this scenario occur many times. The truck looks well maintained and probably someone serviced the rear end and put a none positrac fluid in it. Should work great
That a Nice Looking Truck! My dad has a 2014 with 168000 miles, that's also 3.5 a twin turbo eccoboost. zero issues, man loves his truck its Blue.....
I would mess with fluid first. I had a Ranger fx4 with an 8.8 in rear. Started whining and felt chattery, for lack of a better term. Changed fluid out with amsoil (not an amsoil nut, I'm sure other synthetics perform well too), and it made a huge difference. Was completely smooth and quiet, and actually saw a slight increase in mpg (I track every fill-up). There's also always junkyard axles...
Randy,
Go out in walley world's parking lot and do full lock left and right steering figure 8 driving patterns to get the friction additive into the clutches of the posi-trac. About 3 sets of each pattern. Also make sure the electric lock differential is not engaged. Push the 4 wheel drive knob selector in. Out is electric differential lock. Good Luck!
I had a CTS with the limited slip rear end that was making all kinds of clunking and chatter. Figured I'd change the diff oil with the friction modifier before tearing into it and that completely fixed the issue.
The GM differentials do not use clutch packs and do not need a friction modifier as far as I am aware. I would assume they are using something equivalent to what a G80 is in that Cadillac CTS. Not sure! If they aren't using clutch packs in their big trucks I wouldn't think they would in their luxury crossovers.
@@Guillotines_For_Globalists G80 is what it said on the option sheet on mine! I just know that GM called for a limited slip additive - I'm assuming that's the same thing as a friction modifier. Maybe not!
@@randym119 The G80 does not rely on clutches though. I have read numerous times that no friction modifier is needed when your setup doesn't use clutches.
Here's a quick read, I just searched;
www.silveradosierra.com/transmission/g80-fluid-type-t633330.html
Someone mentioned that their G80 behaved worse with the limited slip additive.
@Edward Martinez A G80 is a G80 isn't it? None of them used clutches?
@@randym119 every mechanical limited slip I've had need an additive including Crown Vics
hey randy I have done those blend door actuators before and the dash DOES NOT need to come out for the passenger side only the driver. there are plenty of videos on youtube but feel free to message me if u have any questions. the updated motorcraft part is around $54 from the dealer
Yup you are correct get the seat out get in the floor get at it. Is it a pita yes but it can be done yes
Gonna guess friction modifier for the clutches in the diff. That will do exactly what you describe. I knew it! I bet it fixes it Randy! The modifier breaks down over time.
That is a pretty truck it's real nice love the video 👍👍👍
Yup it will keep doing it. Fix it and never habe to worry about it again.
“I’m gonna look like busta rhymes if I put this on inside out” 😂😂👌 nice Randy!
The hat and jacket with the logo is just what you needed for your channel. Lookin good now.
Mikes gift is really cool, 10 from 10! :) you will promote the channel, plus you will stand out from the crowd
Engine sounds pretty normal to me my friend, its just the DI , i have a 2012 3.5 ecoboost f150 xlt that just tripped 89k miles. And it sounds very similar 🤙🏻
Before I did my axle seals my 2004 chattered, skidded and hopped especially in tight turns on pavement like parking lots.
After a drain, seal replacement and refill with synthetic oil and friction modifier it's smooth as butter for 5 years now.
“Haven’t driven a newer Chevy” you sure about that?
nick lol
What that in his driveway
Didn't my man get a 2020 Silverado loaner?
He meant chevvy truck
@@hardworkingtaxpayer He just drove a Black widow a few months ago plus he's rode in Tks Tahoe
Damn, Mike you give great presents. That's a real friend.
You can easily get to the blend door actuator without pulling the dash. I replaced mine in ~30min, pulling the center stack and sitting in the passenger seat.
Yeah, it's tight, but it's definitely doable.
Make sure you get the Ford OEM part and not a Dorman aftermarket, though. The Dorman is taller is will be more difficult to install as a result.
I'd stay far, far away from Ford lug nuts. Yes, they look nicer, but they're made of cheese and won't hold up over time. Gorilla does a nice splined lug nut kit.
I used to have a similar issue with my BMW. the diff would make noise only at low speeds. Changed the fluid and made sure it was all the way filled, and the problem was fixed.
hey there, it's your channel, use whatever hat you like.
Some are born to complain about everything on everyone.
have a good day .
Hi Randy love Watching your videos of different cars you get are nice you have taste in cars and truck
If you like the way the F150 drives, try a 2020 Ram. It’s the quietest smoothest, quietest vehicle of any kind I ever been in. That includes Town Car, Grand Marquis, Mercedes, nothing compares.
When you pay $150 to change the oil in the diff and think thats a good deal 😂
“Stealership”
It wasn't oil, it was a friction modifier 😂
from a dealer it's not bad. lol
That’s included the $130 diagnosis fee. Still high but not bad for a dealership
It’s like 160 to service the whole rear diff. New gasket and all
That Monkey Wrench Mike's a great guy. Another great day of content and i thought you knew about that step. That was a quirk and feature that i'm sure everyone knew about. Lovin' this truck.
MIKE is the mvp of the video what a good guy!
Put a catch can on the Eco Boost if you plan on keeping it. Direct injection engines do not clean the crud off the intake valve coming from the PVC so the catch can removes the gunk.
mine was jerking, and acting crazy, i changed the plugs and been running smooth, that was 6wks ago. i’ve never had a truck miss as hard as this one, and i’ve had a ton of coil packs go out before, but always had 8 cylinders, not 6
Columbia jacket is better than the old...this is your Auto Auction..! Like Like!!
All the newer half ton trucks ride smooth, I think the Ram has the smoothest ride and best interior right now.
I'd take it apart and fix it myself, its not hard to overhaul the limited slip diff.
I would suggest some Lucas also...
Since they added it, go drive it around in circles, say 10 times to the right, then repeat to the left, to make the clutches slip and work the friction modifier in...
16:30 my eco boost sounds the same , nothing to worry about. They sound best when you get the turbos spinning @ high rpm up a hill @ full throttle, try it ! I was a V8 guy up until I drove one of these eco beasts. I still love the sound of a V8 though !
Maybe try looking for a used diff with lower miles. It might cost you the same or less and it would be good content and less downtime 🤷🏻♂️
LOVE THAT GOLD FORD TRUCK GOD BLESS YOU AND YOUR FAMILY AND FRIENDS.
Randy take the truck and do some figure 8s in a parking lot. That will work the additive into the clutches it might take some time but it should work , the process have been around for a long time . Good luck !
Randy once you get your hydraulic jack put it under the bumper of the red truck and jack it up and straighten it out a little
I would use the warranty, if you don't expect to keep the truck for long like you normally do. And I would check the car model normal issues, so I could tell , how much is to fix it.2011 even in high mileage should not give you bad headaches with the motor ( I think). But you are the pro here.
You need to work that stuff into the clutch packs. To do so, find an empty parking lot and make several (five to ten) extremely tight (hard as you can cramp the wheel,) turns both right and left. Going straight down the road doesn't work the clutches that hard, tight turns makes the clutches move around and get bathed in the modifier/oil!! Seen it work many times!!
gold trucks name: money pit
Stephen Meade right lol
That’s not a step!! Lol! That’s a heated push bar. Keeps your hands warm while pushing it home! Lmao!!
Nah it will towing that corvette to the dealership when it breaks again lmao
Hi Randy. Very nice jacket and hatt. I really love your videos.
Keep all the good work up.
Greetings from the Swede
F150s are notorious for that blend door actuator
Have had the same problem with different limited slip diff's doing figure 8's speeds up the progress of the additive .
That noise is the high pressure fuel pump.
It's normal.
Drive slowly in a circle in a parking lot few time both right and left to allow the friction modifier to work into the clutch plates. (Mechanic for 50 years.)
I know this is old video but nice truck, not really a ford guy but with everything on it, its nice.
Memories from my 2005 f150 I had some noise like you describe. It ended the wheel bearing where cooked and it damage the clutch and the gears. This is known by trans. and dif. specialist to be the week spot on those Ford.
Have another estimate from an independant specialist. and i'll used the warranty to cover the dif. cost. Maybe you engine already been overhaul??? Other thing Do a flush of your heating system It might be just clogged. Will cost time and some coolant. It did fix mine for 6 years. You could NAME the thing GOLD DIGGER
Randy, That new truck is super nice. Call it SWEET, lol.
Where the step sits is filthy. That gives you some idea of the life this truck led before Randy got it.
I love the overall look of the early redesign f150s but the grilles were weak. I love my 2018's grille, it looks like a superduty grille.
I'd call the truck 'Bucky' because of rear problems. Use the warranty as you don't hang on to them long anyway, lol. Anybody's guess if that friction stuff works. Might be better to just have everything back there fixed right with 200,000 miles. Thanks for sharing.
The ticking is completely normal. It's from the high pressure fuel pump. It's located on the rear driver side of engine. They are loud
Liking the truck Randy! So nice of mike to hook you up
Normal sound of the high PSI fuel pump. Nice truck.
Friction modifier should fix the issue. You can drive the truck in figure 8s in a parking lot to help work it in, but it will take time. Patience.
Funny....I had the opposite with Bob Moore Ford. Around 2011, I had a 2010 F-150 that was leaking from the rear differential (where the tubes are pressed in to the pumpkin). Bob Moore said that it was normal for it to be "wet" around those areas. Ended up selling the truck.
On my 2010 Grand Marquis I have the blender problem. On it you can press a couple of buttons to reset it. So far I have had to do that about 4 times in 2 years. Eventually I will have to have a new one. Yep, $900-1000 to replace it. Columbia Jackets from Portland, Oregon. Gert Boyle died November 3, 2019 at age 95.
Gold truck has the timing chain tick problem like the other vehicle you had with that noise. Pull everything off the front of the motor. Harmonic balance then timing chain covers replace chains and guides put it back together. Have the mechanic that comes to your house do it for you. I use to replace timing chains on my old cars its not the hardest or impossible job to do.
I like the jacket and the hat, you doing grate job here.
Just a FYI, the blend door actuator for the passenger side vents sits behind the radio/ dash vent right to the right of the radio. Dash removal is NOT required (unless you're doing the actuator for the driver side vents)
It sounds like you have more problems with cars you buy from dealerships and cars at Copart lol
Its pretty sad actually
@@1webbie thats all kinds of bad. No chevy for you again I guess
@@1webbie got a 2013 Hyundai sonata that went through copart and was sold to be from the dude that bought it from copart with a rebuild title(here in okc). That car killed it's engine at 90k miles and the dealership replaced it for free because the original owner purchased the extended warranty. They said the warranty stays with the car. Oh and the car still has visible/totaling damage to the body. (Nothing major/small ripple in rear quarter)
2011 3.5l ecoboost owner here - engine sounds normal
Same here with mine.
Sounds just like my 200k mile 3.5 Ecoboost
2011 Ford Ecoboost. 51,000 miles. Flawless. Oil changes always done by Ford.
You mentioned Warranty company...could you elaborate a little more--or did you buy this truck at a dealer? and I'd use the warranty for the rear end--that engine will go atleast 250k.
My 1998 F150 4x4 XLT, that I've owned for 14 years, and paid $8575 (sticker price) has 230,000ish miles (odometer stopped working--1 year) will never be replaced. If EVEN YOU paid 10K for a 200k mile truck---My old girl will get a new engine when (if?) this one decides to stop working. Fluid changes everyone--that is the key. Oil every 3-5k----Coolant and Transmission flush per recommended. Differentials changed at 120k and might get done again this summer. She just got back from a MTB trip to Rays in Cleveland. 6 hour trip both ways.
Many Stealerships always quote $1000 for blend door replacement by dash removal, because that is "good money" for them if they find enough suckers. Changed three actuators under dash in my 2011 Jeep GC without removing the dash. Two were easily accessable after removing the glove box. The driver's side required removing the panel below the steering wheel. Go to official FORD parts ordering website and find the parts and SCHEMATIC for the A/C system under dash "box" so you can learn the locations of the actuators. Then look under dash and look for them. What videos to learn how to remove the GLOVE BOX. Glove box removed gives you LOTS of ACCESS. Don't fear the reaper!
Check the u joints. My crown Vic been making noise and i thought it was the rear end but it turned out to be the u joints on the drive shaft.
Call it Blanch,
The trouble maker from the GOLDEN girls.
The timing chain is stretched. Mine sounded the same. The cam phasers can compensate to a point but it will need replaced. Expensive.
I would fix the blend door myself. Would make great video content. Only caution I have is look up ways of getting to it without completely removing from the vehicle. Hint: remove the seats first.
Use the warranty. You may never use it again and then at least you got something out of it. Worst case, you spend the $1000 later instead of now. Also, have an independent shop quote the blend door. May be cheaper and help with eventual resale.
Randy find a parking lot do a bunch of tight figure eights. Get the clutches warm.
Should be aptly named: "Goldmember" lol.
OOOOOWWWWW!!!! Frisky now are we!!
I have a 2014 Escape 1.6L EcoBoost.. sounds almost exactly like that, just a little higher pitched.
Once I saw Lola I knew my favorite channel that works with you 🤘🤘
I changed my diff lube with Royal Purple, no friction modifier needed. But you can put in a small bottle, if you wanted to.
Your AC fix is a blend door actuator... It is a pretty easy fix
so glad i got rid of my 2013 ecoboost
The vacuum blend door controls are always a problem ,, usually it's not the actuators ,, just the control box.. you can fix it yourself without taking out the dash. Get the latest update part from Ford.
You can fix that blend door yourself..not the entire dash has to be removed Glovebox, center stack, and passenger airbag.
The sticking blend door sits behind the radio. You can actually see it from the glovebox.
There's a few yt videos on doing it.
randy glad to hear its better and i hope that solve the problem but just so ya know you can get a a new rear end cheaper than 1000 bucks so just keep that as an option also besides i think the viewers would love to see ya take on a big project
Great content Randy. Love the Channel. Mike is a good friend. Keep the videos coming!
Name the gold truck goldilocks 😁
Takes quite a few miles for the friction additive to work it’s way into the clutches,and the noise could be the air pump on the back of the motor,changed a few in the past
Mike and Lola. Great to see some friends com by.
Sugar was a bit too excited. Happy tail wagging.
Cold lol, it is supposed to get down to -31f, -60f with wind chill here in MT tonight, just went and tested all my coolant in my rigs...
This was 2 years ago lol.
@@AutoAuctionRebuilds Haha, thanks for the vids!
Brilliant work thanks for the awesome content and thanks for showing us what was wrong with the f150
Wow Randy, your channel is coming along nicely; it's up to 70+ trolls
Randy would love to buy one of these jackets you should put this sort merchandise for sale to further support your business
There are TH-cam videos that show you how to fix the blend door motor. The part is about $15 and only takes a few minutes to fix if you know how.
Engine sound totally normal! Between the direct injection and the high pressure fuel pump up by the driver side firewall your going to have some sounds.
Use the Warranty. New wardrobe looks great.
Personally, it depends on if you are truly planning on keeping the truck... if you plan on keeping the truck, spend the cash on getting the diff fixed instead of eating $1000 of your extended warranty. If you're not going to keep the truck for very long, then just put it on the extended warranty. Also, curious as to where you got your TPMS sensors.... got a link for the sensors you'd be willing to share? Thanks in advance, and keep up the great videos!
Use the warranty. The heating issue on one side and cold on the other could be the ac condenser.
It's a blend air door .
Randy, don’t farm out stuff you can handle. Aka the diff and other stuff. You kin do it man!!😁
I'd put the new clutches in the rear end myself and save the money . Also the transmission will fail before the engine so I'd save it he warranty for that as well . Good luck Randy 👍
LOVE the new coat and hat!!!!!!!!!!!!