High quality flushes don’t use diesel or kerosene. Good flushes are detergent based and are designed to remove sludge slowly over time to prevent overloading the oil filter or clogging up the oil pickup in the pan. Cheap flushes are solvent based and can cause problems. Amsoil, Liqui Moly and a few others are detergent based primarily and are not miracle products that remove all sludge in 15 minutes. They’re designed to work slowly over numerous oil changes to remove sludge.
Randy, i truly appreciate that the raw emotion was not edited out. You only said what many of us have said. Great video and keep up the good, honest work.
3:37 In other words, put a band-aid on it and hope it helps........ for the time being. Everything I found online, that made sense, says the proper correction for the "coyote tick" is to pull the oil pan, inspect all the rod bearings (preferably the mains, as well) and replace the one(s) that have sh*t the bed. The most critical part is to get that done before it trashes the crankshaft. If caught in time, it corrects the noise and, best of all, costs less than all the bottles of snake-oil. Like the old Fram ad used to say "you can pay me now or you can PAY me later".
Probably needs a timing kit. That is a regular service item for most engines these days. Ticking phasers I believe are not an issue and you can replace them with regular non phased sprockets if necessary. I think.
Ford engines have had this problem before coyote engines...Its usually in the valvetrain...None of those cleaners do anything... Best thing to do is take it apart before metal goes through the engine and destroys it. Take off the valve covers and inspect the cam lobes
Hi Randy, Ceratec takes about 200 - 300 kilometers to start working as it takes time for the Ceramic particles to cling to the moving parts. I have used Ceratec, and results were good. Cheers....
I feel the pain and frustration with the “tick” you were or are dealing with in that truck. I currently have the same “tick” in my Gen 2 Raptor. I have tried everything that you have also with no luck
I wonder if he puts some injector cleaner like Lucas in its fuel at double the dose and 91 octane fuel together and run it to nearly empty and see if that does the trick.
@@carlbernard4197 I was told to run 85 when doing an injector cleaning as it fires the injectors more frequently and thus aids the cleaning process. Any truth to that, do you know?
Newer truck, already has squeaking doors and engine problems, average Ford quality. Also thats the first time I heard Randy cuss LOL. I am not disappointed.
Honestly, I would never buy a former fleet vehicle. Fleet companies are notorious for neglecting services and pushing vehicles to their absolute limits, and a wise man once said “even the wrong oil is better than no oil.”
For the Caratec you need to drive it for about 200 miles for it to take effect. I use the same product on all my cars and it works wonders. Turnes a diesel tractor into a electric car
OMG the mess and the burn isnt funny but you usually dont cuss and when you started it absolutly killed me i laughed so hard i wasnt exapecting that 😂😂😂😂 that was gold man
I have the same truck configuration in a platinum trim. Same exact scenario. Oil consumption and ticking. I believe the high pressure fuel pump rides off a cam shaft. I wonder if it could be something to do with that
Just because it’s fleet doesn’t mean they did a good job with maintenance. My company has a couple fleet vehicles and I used one for a few weeks when I had car trouble and thought it was weaker than it should be and it had a clicking sound when I would first start it. Long story short I got it up on Jack stands and found out it had the original oil filter on it from the factory and the oil looked terrible, 35k miles on the same oil. I changed it out and the clicking went away. I put an oil change sticker on it and alerted everyone to pay attention to its maintenance and she’s still running but I think it could’ve gotten bad fast
A buddy of mine had the same issue with his 2018 F150 5.0 dealer told him that his truck needed a new engine. He ended up trading it in on a Silverado and rolled over $12k negative equity on it, and the dealer sold it a week later without swapping the engine. Dealer couldn't fix it when it was his truck, but fixed it immediately when he sold it to them, go figure.
Snake oil can work sometimes I just don't recommend always putting them in a newer vehicle. If the vehicle is on its last legs or said part go for it. I put Lucas in my transmission on my CJ And got another 5 years out of it with no problems. The one that bothers me the most is people put in stop leak in the rad if they only knew how many other problems they have caused themselves by doing that. Just get a new or used radiator.
Hey Randy, you should try pulling the oil pan and checking the bearings with the engine in the truck. You might have to jack up the engine to clear the cross member. But you'd probably be able to see if the bearings are bad without removing the engine. If they're bad, you could change them from underneath with the engine in the truck. And it would make a great video 🙂
also never go up on the winter number. if your engine is higher milage you can go 5w30. penzoil full synthetic is an economical choice. too thick of oil will starve the last thing in line of oil on cold starts aka the valve train and phaser which is ironically what your tick is.
Completely normal all Ford motors do that. My 3.5 f1titty ecoboost sounds exactly the same...its got 450 thousand miles...all original still on the road to this day...add 1 quart of Lucas in every oil change....
It's obvious valve train noise related to cam shaft, lifters, pushrods, rocker arms. The only way to know is to disassemble and inspect for cam / lifter issues
You CAN shift-on-the-fly the 4wd at any speed, jus gotta remember the transfer case has a HUGE chain inside, chains stretch and more so with higher speeds, food for thought. 👨🔧😳
I own the same vehicle same year with the exception of I have a short bed. What I believe is this; I use the ceratec at every oil change with 5W-20 syn blend from 10,000 miles through 110,000 and my coyote 5.0 has not developed the famed ticking noise. From everything I have seen and heard in person the ticking worsens over time and mileage. Sorry to say that I believe this is a condition that needs to be addressed early in the engines life to prevent it down the road.
In my 2005 I had a loose piece of metal around my cooling fan which the tick came from on mine. Just something you might wanna check. Either that or the exhaust manifolds.
In 1962 my aunt gave my new Bride and I her 55 Chev sedan as she quit driving. It had very low miles and was in mint condition so we were thrilled as we couldn’t afford to buy a car. I picked the car up 100 miles from our hotel me. On the trip back there was a ticking in the engine that would disappear when I accelerated but returned when I slowed down. I was very upset as I thought it was a wrist pin or a rod. Luckily I worked at a major truck dealer and one of our mechanics took a look during his lunch hour. He came back with the mummified carcass of a Rat. Obviously years before the rodent had crawled into the engine compartment and nestled in the fan shroud. When the engine was started the fan killed him and over the years he dried and hollowed out so the carcass floated when the fan ran at high speed and settled down upon deceleration. Too bad your problem isn’t as simple.
Remove valve cover. Wiggle roller follower, find loose one. Once loose one found. Turn engine until cam lob is narrow side horizontal. Use screw driver to lift push follower to remove. Replace hydraulic lifter. Put back together.
You got a real good deal on this thing. Those tool boxes are like ~$500 each, plus the ~$300 headache rack(&rails) is close to like $1500 if you cleaned up & touch up paint. Sell 'em all for $1200 obo. The ticking is most likely cam phasers, its not piston slap at all. If i were you I'd say do the timing set and cam phasers all together and it'll be back to perfect. I'm gonna finish watching video now(@ 11:17) now, and see what happens. Either way, you got a fabulous deal on this truck, even it it craps out tomorrow, you could part it out to get your money back. Worse case scenario, toss in a junk yard, low mileage, coyote back in it and run the wheels off it.
Been there done that. Changing the transmission fluid on a large New Holland tractor had dropped the plug just like that and had 5 gallons of transmission fluid go all over my chest and it made me waterproof for the next couple of days.
Good luck homie! edit: That sucks man. So many things that could be wrong. If it was my only vehicle I might just run it until it blew up, but my situation is nowhere near the same as yours. I hope you make your cash back.
My 2007 TrailBlazer had a similar noise. Everybody told me it was the engine. Turned out to be the bearings of the A/C pump. Figured it out by removing the belt and letting the engine run for a few seconds (no noise). Put the belt back on and the noise was back. Still have a P0014 code that goes away after an oil change (with engine flush), but comes back after 1,500 km. Next time I try the Liqui Moly engine flush. Thanks for the video!
Hey there. Have you looked to make sure that the noise you are hearing is not an exhaust leak? Familiar with some dodges and GM and wouldn’t want you to chase something that isn’t an issue. Have a great day! Good luck
I worked in a company and they had a couple of Ford expeditions one of them started to make the same noise, and the noise was bad timing chain tensioners.
I started putting liquid Molly in my car's like a year ago I always do an engine flush prior to a oil change and I bought the ceraTech or the MOS2 to protect. Also I buy the liquidMolly oil(green bottle) Also i have 3 Volkswagen"s
Absolutely awesome work as always, I learn something new and exciting every time I watch your awesome videos my friend, thank you for the entertainment 💙😁
Have tried checking for electrical arcing ? try this start the engine raise the hood turn out all light sources and check the plug wires for any arcing also check the coil packs for any electrical arcing
I've burned my hand more then a dozen times changing oil on my f150. Very hot oil lol. The only thing i could suggest it could be the fuel pump on top of the motor. They click loud too. Great videos, keep up the great work 👍
That’s precisely what my pentastar sounded like when I put aftermarket rocker arms in. Replaced them all with oem, and it is quiet and smooth. I definitely say it’s top end/timing related.
I think those trucks look great with the steel wheels, I went to Daytona beach earlier this year and they had lifeguard trucks that were like that but red and they looked amazing
I don’t really need to use our stuff by just go out and buy a cheap cat litter and put on your floor and see the difference. Probably in the cleaner than that. That’s what we use in England anyway to Kat later and it works 😅😅😅😅
LOL I feel your pain Randy, i have burned myself so many time changing oil or header bolts. and Yes i laughed and spit coffee everywhere. Hey Drive that ford, its a work truck they all gonna talk to you a little. Screw it, it wasn't a 100 grand.
I have a 5.4 3v that sounded just like that with NO check engine light, it was the cam phaser and the timing chain guides were cracked so the chain was slapping. After swapping those and 60k miles later is quiet as can be, dunno is that applies to the 5.0.
Get the UPR Billet Easy Oil Drain Valve aftermarket drain plug from A. Then you can attach a hose to it to direct the flow of oil where you want it, and you can regulate how fast it comes out.
The noise that you hear "ticking" is from hydraulic lifters. If they are damaged too much you need to replace them, if not you can try Liqui Moly Hydraulic Lifter Additive. I used this additive and my ticking noise is not so loud, but i need to drive my car a little bit more. When my engine is heated i cant hear ticking noise. After adding additive you must drive your car at least 40-60 miles
The 18 thru 20 had this noise. The maintenance is key to these engines and not using cheap restricted filters that create sludge build up in the phazers.
For the drain plug, you can buy a ronin plug that is so much better for flow control and includes a magnet. For the oil weight, i have a 19 f150 5.0l and a 22 mustang gt. The GTs from 20!9 had a reccomended of 5w 20, but my 22 (same gen coyote) has a recommended 5w 30, with a swap for 5w 20 for drag use. My point is, id drain that 40w oil out and stick with the 20w or mayb no more than a 50/50 mix of 20w and 30w to make a 25w. You may cause damage with that 40w if the engine is still good, even with that tick. Just my thoughts......good luck.
Valve train wear. This is a common issue when the newer engines (particularly) the coyote. Look at your oil pressure. Get a dial gauge that can read 100 psi. Fab a pressure rated hose with a fitting and tap into the oil pressure sending unit. Verify what the dash gauge shows, which is great with a hot idle. If the Oil Pressure is within the FoMoCo acceptable for the engine at idle that all but eliminates the possibility of rod, main or cam bearings. If the truck performs well than that further confirms it is not perfect but not trashed because cam phasers work off oil pressure. If your dash gauge and the actual dial gauge screwed into the block agree that engine is very likely aging but it the OP is within 15% say of spec at that mileage I'd say it's like fine cheese aging gracefully. Now that does not sound like piston slap to me. And I go as far back to the days of the 322 Nail Valve Buick motor which was a TANK. Look that puppy up you will get a hint how OLD I am! And how many quarts, pints, liters etc of various and a sundry quantities of oil, grease, hypoid and other automotive liquids I have spilled and poured into and on myself. Think overall your issue may be annoying but I think it is NOT a solid rod or serious knock. I have heard ROD knocks they are a hard clunk clonk and have authority . Yours just sounds like VVT valve train wear, maybe worn chain tensioners, stretched chain or poor oiling which judging the truck is not likely.
I would not put a Fram oil filter on my lawnmower very restrictive, I only use K&N,wicks or OME but that’s just my personal opinion. My friend has a V6 Honda Accord he puts a Fram filter on it has a slight tick he put a K&N on it and it went away
Isolate the ticking sound with a stethoscope or long screw driver on each valve cover. Once you do that, pull the valve cover and inspect the cam lobes. They all should look shiny. If you see a dull one, its more than likely a faulty fallower (rocker arm). Fairly easy to replace. You Tube it. Good luck. I have a 2019 F150 with the 5.0 and 91k miles. Mine does not have the tick you have, but it makes knocking sounds. That's supposedly normal 😅
My 2019 makes the same noise. Have an appointment at the local, reputable mechanic who believes the noise is the lifters. I thought about doing a flush, but after watching this video, i doubt I'll waste the money.
I understand that issue with the oil going everywhere. Was an auto tech for 20yrs. But it made me laugh to hear you cuss like any of us would when that happens. Great content
My question how much idle time that motor has on it. Part of the problem may be it's just carboned up and needs some fuel treatment and then taken out and the piss run out of it to blow the carbon out and a high quality oil like Royal Purple put in it.
I had a 2005 F150 with the 5.4 v8. It had that same sound, but kind of came and went. Sometimes I couldn’t hear it at all and sometimes it’d sound just like yours does. I bought it with 81k and drove it until it was 178k and sold it. Still ran fine with no issues. I wouldn’t spend 4k plus on another motor.
Ceratec doesn't work instantly. They tell you to run it for at least 5000 kms but it usually starts to improve it after about 500 kms. That just sounds like a Ford to me! I would just drive it and enjoy it. It was a good deal at $8000. Just make sure you get a good syntenic oil and change the oil 7500 kms.
The easiest way to remove the tool boxes and headache rack is to list them for sale for $100 then have the buyer remove and haul them away. You get $100 and they do the labor for a deal on some tool boxes!
That Get Lipui engine flush works well been while since last time used a couple bottles & sometimes when work on project seems simple but takes time to know but say bad language by accident
also don't switch into 4x4 on the fly while you are loosing traction. make sure the vehical is stable or slow down and make it so. Basically don't be spinning the back tires and switch to 4x4.
I d had Seafoam fix sticking valve ticks 100% quiet. But it took about a 700 mile road trip down and back on I-95 for it to work. After the trip I changed the oil and that truck is still running great 10 years later. Seafoam is just really detergent. Thru take time and heat to work IF they are going to work for whatever problem you are having.
Wear gloves when doing oil change
That way all of the scalding hot oil can fill up in the glove and weld it to my hand great idea
Yeah this guy don't need to be doing videos we think he's got anger issues
@@danielpadgett2831If she looks a little sketchy, I also wear a latex glove for the love.
you probably wear a condom when you jack off dont you ?
Sounds like a lifter is weak.
Rams have the same ticking noise a lot of time is the exhaust manifold bolts breaking off
I love how raw and aggressive that oil change was 😂😂 I love seeing people get as pissed off about shit like that. I’m glad I’m not the only one 😂😂😂😂😂
I thought the same, and havent laughed that hard in a LONG time!! 🤣
My Son turned to me and said, "Hot damn, That ol Bird has a fckin mouth on 'em". 😂
😂 now I see what my ex was talking about. That's funny
happens to all of us at least once!
Funny shit.
You cuss almost as good as Samuel L Jackson...🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I was shocked to hear Randy cuss like that. Go Randy!!!
It might be a lifter
Samuel L Jackson approves 👍 😆
I want to watch Pulp Fiction now....
@@TRDOffRoad2020 Or the hitman’s bodyguard
I like that engine flush, but I started reading product info sheets, and most of them are just diesel fuel.
Exactly
Kerosin* not quite Diesel.
Not a fan of engine flushes. Just regular oil changes. Ive seen too many people have issues after doing engine flushes.
High quality flushes don’t use diesel or kerosene. Good flushes are detergent based and are designed to remove sludge slowly over time to prevent overloading the oil filter or clogging up the oil pickup in the pan. Cheap flushes are solvent based and can cause problems. Amsoil, Liqui Moly and a few others are detergent based primarily and are not miracle products that remove all sludge in 15 minutes. They’re designed to work slowly over numerous oil changes to remove sludge.
@@sunsetoriginals7320on new cars sure but like on our 2005 VM Turan i recommend using flushes
As a service tech that has worked on many fords I agree with every single word you have said so far about that drain plug😂
Amen brother lmao
Randy, i truly appreciate that the raw emotion was not edited out. You only said what many of us have said. Great video and keep up the good, honest work.
3:37 In other words, put a band-aid on it and hope it helps........ for the time being. Everything I found online, that made sense, says the proper correction for the "coyote tick" is to pull the oil pan, inspect all the rod bearings (preferably the mains, as well) and replace the one(s) that have sh*t the bed. The most critical part is to get that done before it trashes the crankshaft. If caught in time, it corrects the noise and, best of all, costs less than all the bottles of snake-oil. Like the old Fram ad used to say "you can pay me now or you can PAY me later".
When you pulled that plug it took me twenty minutes to stop laughing
Great vid Randy! Pure and unfiltered emotion. Just like in real life, sometimes we make a mess and get a little burned...!
Probably needs a timing kit. That is a regular service item for most engines these days. Ticking phasers I believe are not an issue and you can replace them with regular non phased sprockets if necessary. I think.
Love the real Randy not holding back.
You tried, now I would dissect the oil filters for metal shavings.
Great content!
Ford engines have had this problem before coyote engines...Its usually in the valvetrain...None of those cleaners do anything... Best thing to do is take it apart before metal goes through the engine and destroys it.
Take off the valve covers and inspect the cam lobes
Yes - a real mechanic. LOVE that you kept in your honest response to every.single,part of that oil drain. If i could subscribe twice - 100%!!
Hi Randy, Ceratec takes about 200 - 300 kilometers to start working as it takes time for the Ceramic particles to cling to the moving parts. I have used Ceratec, and results were good. Cheers....
hi, are you a regular user or ceratec?
If you have a GDI engine, you may want to check about LSPI because Ceratec has an extremely high amount of calcium.
I feel the pain and frustration with the “tick” you were or are dealing with in that truck. I currently have the same “tick” in my Gen 2 Raptor. I have tried everything that you have also with no luck
Good morning Randy. Working on the 2018 Ford F150. Changing the oil and adding LiquiMolly to the oil to stop the tapping of the engine.
Nice choice words. That is unfortunately the life of a diy mechanic sometimes things don't go to plan. Keep up the excellent work
Ya we do the best with what we have. And know when to tap out before wasting too much $
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂. Bro that was funny as heck.. sorry..😂😂😂😂😂😂😂🤷🏿♂️
I wonder if he puts some injector cleaner like Lucas in its fuel at double the dose and 91 octane fuel together and run it to nearly empty and see if that does the trick.
What didn't want to check TH-cam first😅
@@carlbernard4197 I was told to run 85 when doing an injector cleaning as it fires the injectors more frequently and thus aids the cleaning process. Any truth to that, do you know?
Newer truck, already has squeaking doors and engine problems, average Ford quality. Also thats the first time I heard Randy cuss LOL. I am not disappointed.
i have never heard him cuss like that. I LOVE YOU RANDY. MAD RESPECT.
Honestly, I would never buy a former fleet vehicle. Fleet companies are notorious for neglecting services and pushing vehicles to their absolute limits, and a wise man once said “even the wrong oil is better than no oil.”
@@jonallen1985 we bought a used U.HAUL. BOX TRUCK ,, VI0,, 6.8. ENGINE,,2.68.OOO.. MILES,, CHANGED TO CASTROL EDGE,, 10.W 40.. HIGH MILAGE OIL. PURO. BOSS. OIL FILTER,, RUNS GREAT... SMOOTH. ADDED ALSO.. LIQUID MOLY ENGINE ADDITIVE. SO SMOOTH,,
For the Caratec you need to drive it for about 200 miles for it to take effect. I use the same product on all my cars and it works wonders. Turnes a diesel tractor into a electric car
What’s different from the grey Liqui-Moli??
5w20 is probably why it started making the taping sound. In Europe most trucks use 5w40 It made it past the warranty so that's all Ford cares about
That happened to me a few years ago... I have never thrown a wrench so far in my life.
Your reaction was completely understandable.
Cat litter works great for soaking up oil and it's a lot cheaper
OMG the mess and the burn isnt funny but you usually dont cuss and when you started it absolutly killed me i laughed so hard i wasnt exapecting that 😂😂😂😂 that was gold man
I spit out my coffee when he started cussing lol
I have the same truck configuration in a platinum trim. Same exact scenario. Oil consumption and ticking. I believe the high pressure fuel pump rides off a cam shaft. I wonder if it could be something to do with that
You paid 8000 for it so just drive it and ignore the sound
Just because it’s fleet doesn’t mean they did a good job with maintenance. My company has a couple fleet vehicles and I used one for a few weeks when I had car trouble and thought it was weaker than it should be and it had a clicking sound when I would first start it. Long story short I got it up on Jack stands and found out it had the original oil filter on it from the factory and the oil looked terrible, 35k miles on the same oil. I changed it out and the clicking went away. I put an oil change sticker on it and alerted everyone to pay attention to its maintenance and she’s still running but I think it could’ve gotten bad fast
A buddy of mine had the same issue with his 2018 F150 5.0 dealer told him that his truck needed a new engine. He ended up trading it in on a Silverado and rolled over $12k negative equity on it, and the dealer sold it a week later without swapping the engine. Dealer couldn't fix it when it was his truck, but fixed it immediately when he sold it to them, go figure.
Snake oil can work sometimes I just don't recommend always putting them in a newer vehicle. If the vehicle is on its last legs or said part go for it. I put Lucas in my transmission on my CJ And got another 5 years out of it with no problems. The one that bothers me the most is people put in stop leak in the rad if they only knew how many other problems they have caused themselves by doing that. Just get a new or used radiator.
Hey Randy, you should try pulling the oil pan and checking the bearings with the engine in the truck. You might have to jack up the engine to clear the cross member. But you'd probably be able to see if the bearings are bad without removing the engine. If they're bad, you could change them from underneath with the engine in the truck. And it would make a great video 🙂
also never go up on the winter number. if your engine is higher milage you can go 5w30. penzoil full synthetic is an economical choice. too thick of oil will starve the last thing in line of oil on cold starts aka the valve train and phaser which is ironically what your tick is.
I was laughing so hard when the oil change went south!
He deserve every bit of it for cussing like that
That headache rack looks awesome on that truck Randy I don't know why you want to take it off
Yeah I can feel the pain Randy, I hope your day gets better Randy!
Put strait pipes and headers on it. Bet you won't hear no ticks after that.
Randy before you send it to auction change the oil again so they dont think the head gasket it bad 😂
Completely normal all Ford motors do that. My 3.5 f1titty ecoboost sounds exactly the same...its got 450 thousand miles...all original still on the road to this day...add 1 quart of Lucas in every oil change....
It's obvious valve train noise related to cam shaft, lifters, pushrods, rocker arms. The only way to know is to disassemble and inspect for cam / lifter issues
Hopefully if you sell those boxes and rack it might help with the cost of a new tailgate , hope your hand is ok 😊
You CAN shift-on-the-fly the 4wd at any speed, jus gotta remember the transfer case has a HUGE chain inside, chains stretch and more so with higher speeds, food for thought. 👨🔧😳
I thought the F150 looked really cool with the headache rack.
I own the same vehicle same year with the exception of I have a short bed. What I believe is this; I use the ceratec at every oil change with 5W-20 syn blend from 10,000 miles through 110,000 and my coyote 5.0 has not developed the famed ticking noise. From everything I have seen and heard in person the ticking worsens over time and mileage. Sorry to say that I believe this is a condition that needs to be addressed early in the engines life to prevent it down the road.
In my 2005 I had a loose piece of metal around my cooling fan which the tick came from on mine. Just something you might wanna check. Either that or the exhaust manifolds.
In 1962 my aunt gave my new Bride and I her 55 Chev sedan as she quit driving. It had very low miles and was in mint condition so we were thrilled as we couldn’t afford to buy a car. I picked the car up 100 miles from our hotel me. On the trip back there was a ticking in the engine that would disappear when I accelerated but returned when I slowed down. I was very upset as I thought it was a wrist pin or a rod. Luckily I worked at a major truck dealer and one of our mechanics took a look during his lunch hour. He came back with the mummified carcass of a Rat. Obviously years before the rodent had crawled
into the engine compartment and nestled in the fan shroud.
When the engine was started the fan killed him and over the years he dried and hollowed out so the carcass floated when the fan ran at high speed and settled down upon deceleration. Too bad your problem isn’t as simple.
Remove valve cover. Wiggle roller follower, find loose one. Once loose one found. Turn engine until cam lob is narrow side horizontal. Use screw driver to lift push follower to remove. Replace hydraulic lifter. Put back together.
You need that thin oil for the very small oil passages for the VVT.
The Mustang GT performance pack cars from (2011-present) run 5W50 with the very same oil passages.
You got a real good deal on this thing. Those tool boxes are like ~$500 each, plus the ~$300 headache rack(&rails) is close to like $1500 if you cleaned up & touch up paint. Sell 'em all for $1200 obo. The ticking is most likely cam phasers, its not piston slap at all. If i were you I'd say do the timing set and cam phasers all together and it'll be back to perfect. I'm gonna finish watching video now(@ 11:17) now, and see what happens. Either way, you got a fabulous deal on this truck, even it it craps out tomorrow, you could part it out to get your money back. Worse case scenario, toss in a junk yard, low mileage, coyote back in it and run the wheels off it.
There's no liquid fix for a noisy motor. Those companies selling these products profit off people looking for an easy fix. NOT GOING TO HAPPEN!
Interesting because I’ve done it time and time again.
Worked for me. Noisy lifters gone after liquid moly treatment!
Similar to Lucas..it's always worth a shot..that's right
Depends on the issue. I've seen it work with my own eyes.
Been there done that. Changing the transmission fluid on a large New Holland tractor had dropped the plug just like that and had 5 gallons of transmission fluid go all over my chest and it made me waterproof for the next couple of days.
@@carlbernard4197 lava soap you’ll love it
Good luck homie! edit: That sucks man. So many things that could be wrong. If it was my only vehicle I might just run it until it blew up, but my situation is nowhere near the same as yours. I hope you make your cash back.
My 2007 TrailBlazer had a similar noise. Everybody told me it was the engine. Turned out to be the bearings of the A/C pump. Figured it out by removing the belt and letting the engine run for a few seconds (no noise). Put the belt back on and the noise was back.
Still have a P0014 code that goes away after an oil change (with engine flush), but comes back after 1,500 km. Next time I try the Liqui Moly engine flush.
Thanks for the video!
I would have reacted the EXACT same way when the hot oil went all over your hand.
Reminds me of helping my dad work on cars in winter. Guy never swore (church goer) but man the wrench slips on a cold NY day and he used all the words
You do not have to remove the tool boxes alone. Nick is always glad to work with you. He is a great son.
Obviously Nick isn’t here…
Yeah… or he would have helped! 😑
Hey there. Have you looked to make sure that the noise you are hearing is not an exhaust leak? Familiar with some dodges and GM and wouldn’t want you to chase something that isn’t an issue. Have a great day! Good luck
I’d say keep driving it until your gas tank is empty. I have a feeling it may be something with the exhaust manifold
Loved the video, you gave it your best shot. I personally couldn't live with that tapping. WTF ford for that oil plug drain???
Sounds like a lifter to me. And after using all the goodies you did i would say definitely a lifter tap.
I worked in a company and they had a couple of Ford expeditions one of them started to make the same noise, and the noise was bad timing chain tensioners.
I started putting liquid Molly in my car's like a year ago I always do an engine flush prior to a oil change and I bought the ceraTech or the MOS2 to protect. Also I buy the liquidMolly oil(green bottle)
Also i have 3 Volkswagen"s
Absolutely awesome work as always, I learn something new and exciting every time I watch your awesome videos my friend, thank you for the entertainment 💙😁
Have tried checking for electrical arcing ? try this start the engine raise the hood turn out all light sources and check the plug wires for any arcing also check the coil packs for any electrical arcing
I've burned my hand more then a dozen times changing oil on my f150.
Very hot oil lol.
The only thing i could suggest it could be the fuel pump on top of the motor.
They click loud too.
Great videos, keep up the great work 👍
Hope your arm is OK.
That would have hurt like heck.
That’s precisely what my pentastar sounded like when I put aftermarket rocker arms in. Replaced them all with oem, and it is quiet and smooth.
I definitely say it’s top end/timing related.
re: oil viscosity. Clearances in newer engines require the lighter weight. Engine may not lubricate correctly with heavier oil.
@@garysimonson9593 it be ok
I think those trucks look great with the steel wheels, I went to Daytona beach earlier this year and they had lifeguard trucks that were like that but red and they looked amazing
I don’t really need to use our stuff by just go out and buy a cheap cat litter and put on your floor and see the difference. Probably in the cleaner than that. That’s what we use in England anyway to Kat later and it works 😅😅😅😅
That truck is in good condition and deserves a replacement engine or rebuilding the engine 👍
Why, there is nothing wrong with the motor
Nothing wrong with it, just drive it
It's the fuel pump if you know what that is
Welcome to the world of what techs deal with on a daily basis 😂
LOL I feel your pain Randy, i have burned myself so many time changing oil or header bolts. and Yes i laughed and spit coffee everywhere. Hey Drive that ford, its a work truck they all gonna talk to you a little. Screw it, it wasn't a 100 grand.
I have a 5.4 3v that sounded just like that with NO check engine light, it was the cam phaser and the timing chain guides were cracked so the chain was slapping. After swapping those and 60k miles later is quiet as can be, dunno is that applies to the 5.0.
You could have edited out the vulgar language,I am unsubscribing
Oh no William got his little feelbads hurt from my video and now he’s unsubscribing 😂 💫 ⭐️ ❄️ ⛄️ my channel may never survive 😂
William you vagina 😂
Crybaby can't handle an occasional mother fer good god
Grow up, he just burned the crap out of his hand because ford designers are flipping idiots.
@@AutoAuctionRebuildscame to the comment section just for this lmao 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 wasn't disappointed
I've actually been watching you since 2019 are longer. Back when you and your brother were doing the Cadillac Escalade I thank.
Get the UPR Billet Easy Oil Drain Valve aftermarket drain plug from A. Then you can attach a hose to it to direct the flow of oil where you want it, and you can regulate how fast it comes out.
The noise that you hear "ticking" is from hydraulic lifters. If they are damaged too much you need to replace them, if not you can try Liqui Moly Hydraulic Lifter Additive. I used this additive and my ticking noise is not so loud, but i need to drive my car a little bit more. When my engine is heated i cant hear ticking noise. After adding additive you must drive your car at least 40-60 miles
The 18 thru 20 had this noise.
The maintenance is key to these engines and not using cheap restricted filters that create sludge build up in the phazers.
For the drain plug, you can buy a ronin plug that is so much better for flow control and includes a magnet. For the oil weight, i have a 19 f150 5.0l and a 22 mustang gt. The GTs from 20!9 had a reccomended of 5w 20, but my 22 (same gen coyote) has a recommended 5w 30, with a swap for 5w 20 for drag use. My point is, id drain that 40w oil out and stick with the 20w or mayb no more than a 50/50 mix of 20w and 30w to make a 25w. You may cause damage with that 40w if the engine is still good, even with that tick. Just my thoughts......good luck.
Valve train wear. This is a common issue when the newer engines (particularly) the coyote. Look at your oil pressure. Get a dial gauge that can read 100 psi. Fab a pressure rated hose with a fitting and tap into the oil pressure sending unit. Verify what the dash gauge shows, which is great with a hot idle. If the Oil Pressure is within the FoMoCo acceptable for the engine at idle that all but eliminates the possibility of rod, main or cam bearings. If the truck performs well than that further confirms it is not perfect but not trashed because cam phasers work off oil pressure. If your dash gauge and the actual dial gauge screwed into the block agree that engine is very likely aging but it the OP is within 15% say of spec at that mileage I'd say it's like fine cheese aging gracefully.
Now that does not sound like piston slap to me. And I go as far back to the days of the 322 Nail Valve Buick motor which was a TANK. Look that puppy up you will get a hint how OLD I am! And how many quarts, pints, liters etc of various and a sundry quantities of oil, grease, hypoid and other automotive liquids I have spilled and poured into and on myself.
Think overall your issue may be annoying but I think it is NOT a solid rod or serious knock. I have heard ROD knocks they are a hard clunk clonk and have authority . Yours just sounds like VVT valve train wear, maybe worn chain tensioners, stretched chain or poor oiling which judging the truck is not likely.
I would not put a Fram oil filter on my lawnmower very restrictive, I only use K&N,wicks or OME but that’s just my personal opinion. My friend has a V6 Honda Accord he puts a Fram filter on it has a slight tick he put a K&N on it and it went away
I myself use thicker oil on my older high mileage cars. Its a great way to make them run smoother for sure.
Correct, but thicker oils in a modern engine is not the best idea.
@@Twizztify I am completely aware of that and I mentioned that I only do it in older vehicles.
It can kill an engine is colder climates.
Isolate the ticking sound with a stethoscope or long screw driver on each valve cover. Once you do that, pull the valve cover and inspect the cam lobes. They all should look shiny. If you see a dull one, its more than likely a faulty fallower (rocker arm). Fairly easy to replace. You Tube it. Good luck. I have a 2019 F150 with the 5.0 and 91k miles. Mine does not have the tick you have, but it makes knocking sounds. That's supposedly normal 😅
To quiet the noise you have to add 80/90 gear oil to your standard oil. About 1 quart of it
My 2019 makes the same noise. Have an appointment at the local, reputable mechanic who believes the noise is the lifters. I thought about doing a flush, but after watching this video, i doubt I'll waste the money.
I understand that issue with the oil going everywhere. Was an auto tech for 20yrs. But it made me laugh to hear you cuss like any of us would when that happens. Great content
I’m not doing my own oil change for sure on my f150 lol great video randy
My question how much idle time that motor has on it. Part of the problem may be it's just carboned up and needs some fuel treatment and then taken out and the piss run out of it to blow the carbon out and a high quality oil like Royal Purple put in it.
It’s the rear rocker arm in the passenger side. Their are a few so play with them to see which ones are loose
For the next oil change I recommend 5w50 weight, the coyote engine likes it, Liquimoly Molygen 5w50 or Amsoil signature 5w50
Personally I would have kept the headache bar and box, cleaning / modifying them a little perhaps. The slider though sucks fod everyday use.
the W means weather temp, not the weight or viscosity of the oil, also the tick noise is from a clogged hydraulic valve lifter.
I had a 2005 F150 with the 5.4 v8. It had that same sound, but kind of came and went. Sometimes I couldn’t hear it at all and sometimes it’d sound just like yours does. I bought it with 81k and drove it until it was 178k and sold it. Still ran fine with no issues.
I wouldn’t spend 4k plus on another motor.
Ceratec doesn't work instantly. They tell you to run it for at least 5000 kms but it usually starts to improve it after about 500 kms. That just sounds like a Ford to me! I would just drive it and enjoy it. It was a good deal at $8000. Just make sure you get a good syntenic oil and change the oil 7500 kms.
The easiest way to remove the tool boxes and headache rack is to list them for sale for $100 then have the buyer remove and haul them away. You get $100 and they do the labor for a deal on some tool boxes!
The noise is a upper intake solenoid. Usually the back one. It will never change . Until you replace it . 400 for the inake about ..
That Get Lipui engine flush works well been while since last time used a couple bottles & sometimes when work on project seems simple but takes time to know but say bad language by accident
also don't switch into 4x4 on the fly while you are loosing traction. make sure the vehical is stable or slow down and make it so. Basically don't be spinning the back tires and switch to 4x4.
I had the same issue, I tested the fuel injectors, and found the # 5 injector was bad and replaced it. No more ticking sounds
I d had Seafoam fix sticking valve ticks 100% quiet. But it took about a 700 mile road trip down and back on I-95 for it to work. After the trip I changed the oil and that truck is still running great 10 years later.
Seafoam is just really detergent. Thru take time and heat to work IF they are going to work for whatever problem you are having.