Reflex Racing RX28SE Build
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ม.ค. 2025
- THE ULTIMATE IN 1/28 SCALE ON-ROAD RACING CHASSIS. The Reflex Racing RX28SE is the (current) “pinnacle” of racing chassis for Mini-Z, and other 1/28, racing. While most use a carbon fiber or brass chassis, Reflex has opted to go with stainless steel. Brass is great, because it keeps the weight as low as possible…but, being a ‘soft’ metal, it can bend more easily than almost all other metals. Carbon fiber is great, because of its stiffness…but, being lightweight, the vehicle’s “center of gravity” can be raised (unless weights are added). Going with a stainless steel chassis provides the “best of both worlds” - the strength & stiffness of CF, plus the weight of brass.
Additional benefits of the RX28SE are two complete front assemblies - standard Double A-Arm & KISS (I’m sure those reading can figure out the meaning), as well as ‘medium’ and ‘hard’ upper A-arms. The kit also comes with two sets of rear wheels (11mm & 14mm) as well as standard 8.5mm front wheels…plus a metal servo horn Reflex recommends the Reflex RR007 servo, or the AGFC A06CLS V1 (not V2) servo, as both have 20T splines matching the included servo horn.
While some might think the $500 price to be ‘high’, when you consider everything included, you realize the price is actually a bargain (compared to purchasing all the included options separately). Lastly, Reflex Racing offers a complete tool set, perfect for building your own RX28/RX28SE, or any other Mini-Z or 1/28scale vehicle. You can find out more about each below:
Reflex Racing RX28SE
www.reflexraci...
Reflex Racing RR007 HV Mini Digital Servo
www.reflexraci...
Reflex racing RX28A Tool Set
www.reflexraci...
DISCLOSURE: All Reflex Racing products mentioned were purchased at full retail price…NONE of them were provided free of charge, or at any discount. Additionally, Reflex Racing was not aware of the build video, or the unboxing video (link below), thus anything stated is of my own choosing.
Reflex RX28SE Unboxing:
• Reflex Racing RX28SE U...
Thank you! I just got the RX28 standard model and your video will help tremendously with the build. 😊
The RX28SE & RX28SE are two completely different chassis. Just be aware of that, as very little is shared between the two. 🤙🏼
Little bit more grease then I would recommend. Not only adds weight but will sling it onto track I would think
The amount of grease is actually fairly minimal...and, once 'worked', I'd say approx 25% of it came out (and was wiped off). As for "slinging onto the track", unlikely. It's not as if it's on a gear spinning at a high rate. Plus, having used the same grease inside solid axles (on the ring & pinion gears), almost none had every been "slung off"...the Maxima grease 'sticks' quite well. The only 'vehicle'...actually, vessel...any has "slung off"from would be the flex shafts of my boats (which are spinning at 25K+ RPM.
Just my opinion nice build other than that.
@@jamies3190 Opinions...positive & negative...are always accepted, and appreciated - both help to 'motivate'. I will admit, I'm extremely new to 1/28, and am basing most of what I'm trying on my previous 1/10 experience. The RX28SE was my first, with a scratch-built (ie. not converted Mini-Z) PNR2.5. Unfortunately, I'm still waiting for a few parts. Once those parts come in (and, once my work schedule 'cooperates' worth filming), then building...and filming...will proceed.
Funny intro
I have one 'primary' rule in life...and, when people seriously think about it, they realize how true it is:
"You can't make it through life successfully without a good sense of humor." 🙃 🤙🏼
That's front end is also way to stiff man sorry to call you out but it should flop around on it own weight
Initially, the rear was 'stiff' because either one of the pivot balls was just slightly too large and/or the rod end was slightly too small. Removing some of that plastic fixed that problem. The front suspension had a similar problem (resolved the same way), plus one of the lower A-seem shims was slightly too thick (which I replaced with a slightly thinner one. At this point, every portion of the front & rear suspensions do "flop around" on their own.
UPDATE: I have to thank you. Upon further inspection, and after running part of a pack, I discovered that the pivot ball problem I mentioned previously wasn't the only thing causing binding in the steering...and, truth-be-told, it actually turned out to be the lesser of the two things causing the problem. The primary cause turned out to be the shims between the steering knuckle & lower suspension arms. As those who watched the build video might remember, the caster shims were missing from the kit...well, they arrived, and needed to be installed. To do this, I had to partially disassemble the front end...and, during this process, that's when I discovered the steering shim problem.
What, specifically, was the cause? Turns out, the ID of both shims was just ever-so-slightly too small (one slightly smaller/tighter than the other). Not only were they not 'loose' on the screws holding the lower suspension arm to the bottom of the knuckles, but I actually had to hold them with pliers, while 'unscrewing' the screw out from the shim. Thankfully, the 'solution' was easy. I took my body reamer to both shims...and, with very light pressure, rotated the reamer approx 3 rotations per side of each shim. Now, the ID of both shims is large enough to be "free" of the screw, but not so large as to allow the shim to move excessively...and, most importantly of all, the steering freely "flops around". Problem 100% 'solved'. Again, thank you.
hai messo troppo grasso
Too much fat?