This is honestly better than any of the pro surf coaches' videos I've watched on positioning, and I've watched quite a few, some of which I paid for. Maybe you could do another one for when the waves are big, powerful, and steep.
I don't get too many of those types of days but if and when I do, I will try. Recently in SoCal, it has been big. Once thing I notice about a lot of shortboarders on bigger days is that they don't realize that it takes much more force for a wave to break and they don't get to the critical part of the wave to paddle. they miss a lot of waves at bolsa. Bigger boards have an advantage but then they are also a pain to paddle out on big days. I noticed "big" days, it has to almost feel like the wave is going to break on your back.
I've commented before but I keep coming back to this video. Sometimes your just not ready for the lesson but this is just what i need at this point in my surfing progression.
I'm new to surfing and I've been trying to find a video that best explains how to read waves in the simplest way possible. The videos I've seen in the past 3 days, I haven't had the interest to finish watching because I didn't understand anything they were saying. XD Until I saw this video!
yeah, it's funny though. I have a buddy who, no matter what I say, just sits there and literally will wait for the wave to come to him and won't paddle or even lay down until the very last second. Sometimes I will see him no go for the wave cuz he is too deep but if he had only paddled 15 ft to the left or right, he would have been perfectly positioned. :(
@@ThomyeSurfs yeah i can be the same way....its harder to stay active as you get older lol, but i find it helps if i play on repeat a idea in my mind before paddling out like "dont sit" or "snap off the top" --- helps me focus, otherwise i get too scatterbrained out there sometimes hahaha
@@Heximelt i'm the same. I hate when i figure something out and then completely forget about it the next time I paddle out. then a year later, I discover it again and think, crap, I already knew this. haha
I realized it as soon as I saw him describe the cone. This kind of video is what I've been searching for...actual information, no cringey intro, to the point and systematic.
@@ThomyeSurfs NOW you tell me. LOL. You're giving a way the secrets! Great job though. It's the bigger, longer, uncut version of what Turtle said, if the wave breaks here, don't be there brah. :)
Great tutorial. Love the color shading for A, I, and B. Definitely recommending this to my students. Keep up the great work. Love the new studio - having the same issues, lol.
Probably the most unique excuse not to post to date, mosquitos 🦟!!! Your videos are great dude and just getting better ! Been following since the first surfboard review
Awesome explanation! 100% agree need to be proactive and chase down the waves. Waiting, watching, and anticipating where you want to be on the wave! Good stuff! 🤙🏽
Such good stuff. Thanks! Hadn’t ever thought of the different color for looking at the way the wave was breaking. I always learn something watching your videos!
I'm surprised you didn't do a rant on the oil spill. Were getting tarballs down here. Blech. Maybe you mentioned it...the steepness of the slope determines how fast the wave peels. Close outs have no slope.
the footage was from before the spill. I haven't seen any tarballs up by Bolsa. I'd imagine it is bad down by HB/Newport. No, I didn't mention closeouts but hoping people sort of understand that already. But maybe I shouldn't assume. :) Hope that oil mess does not touch down by San Clemente.
for me, deciding R or L is based on whichever I'm nearest to. If I can make either or, then I usually pick left because I like going left. Then my last decision is which looks best for the longest ride. In the beginning, when I was starting out, I picked the side that looked easiest and had a shoulder. As I have gotten a bit better, I tend to pick the longer walled waves. The waves with too much should tend to be too short and quick.
This is so very helpful. A couple months in self taught and finally made a drop on a 4ft green wave. My board is only 5’8, any advice on getting enough push closer to the shoulder on a shorter board to avoid having to make a critical drop every time? When I lean back near the shoulder and wait for the nudge I get in the peak it never seems to happen. Thanks for the content!
If I had to break it down, I would say that positioning is about 80% of catching the wave, another 15% is paddling strength and intensity at the point of paddling for the wave and the last 5% is the pop up, not exactly the pop up but making sure that you are positioned properly on the board, not too far back, kicking to create lift on the tail, arching your back to keep the nose from digging in before it's time. If you watch advanced surfers and compare them to beginner/intermediates, you will notice they don't have to try as hard to catch the wave, mostly because they get into the correct position. You have to be hyper aware of where you on each time to improve. if you miss a wave, you have to reflect on where you were and make yourself be in better position. I'm watched time and time again where someone will miss a wave, and then do the exact same thing 5 more times. Shorter boards (less float) will have a smaller windows. The better you are at positioning, the window seems bigger, the stronger you are at paddling, the quicker you get to that window, and the pop up technique, which is the smallest portion of the equation, just makes sure you don't fall. I think the pop up is the least important of the three. Anyways, other than be hyper aware of your positioning and have good memory of it, it is hard to give you any one bit of advise. Really pay attention to the mistakes in order to correct them. At some point, I'll put out a 2nd part to this video. My camera is broke so it has been difficult to put out new content. :( And money is thin. Hopefully soon. Cheers
I've been on off for 35 years now. I'm 52 and started around 14 I think. I did have 3 or 4 periods when I stopped surfing. I have been more consistent recently as I feel like my time is expiring and my progressive surfing slows. I get hurt a lot more now a days, knees mostly. As for the Bay area, no. I have not surfed there in over 30 years. I think I went there when i was 10 and surfed under the bride, steamer lane, and a nude beach in Santa Cruz. I really like Steamer lane but it was small when i went. Still super fun although the kelp was crazy. I have a buddy up by Ocean beach. He normally comes down vs me going up. I am a huge wuss for cold water. I consider OC cold and wear a 4/3 year round except for those crazy one off days where the water gets around 80. thanks for the kind words, hope to put more relevant content out. difficult to do board reviews so need to consider different topics. :)
I'm late but this was excellent. One question.... What do you do when the swell period is quicker? How do you get rest to paddle for the next set, that's coming right behind it?
this is a tough question to answer, mostly because maybe i'm not quite understanding. I know where I surf, most often the quick period swells are West and Northwest. They get as short at 6 seconds. Having said that, at least where I am, they aren't relentless. I think the most I have seen even in the most consistent of swells is 20 in a row. There always seems to be a break where you sit around. Only once in my life did I see more which was on a Costa Rica trip. I think I paddled for 20 minutes straight and only as a miracle, there was a break long enough for me to get out. I've never paddled so long, ever. Anyways, if it is that consistent and I find myself stuck, I paddle towards the left or right whichever way the current or rip is traveling. If you watch one of my other videos where I talk about patterns, I noticed that if I'm dead center of a peak and it is consistent and relentless, I paddle sideways to where the waves might let me though then paddle out again, also the current caused by the breaking wave pushing in toward shore will be lighter to the sides. If that peak doesn't travel over with me, I then just get to the outside and rest. I don't try and squeeze a wave in between the set. Most likely, I'll be too tired and waste it by getting in too late. If you can get past the waves, then just rest on the outside and then make your way back in a bit when you are ready. Hope I was understanding the questions.
I don't understand. There is only one spot on the wave where it breaks (which is the spot with highest priority between surfers). So it's not like you have a choice of where to take off. Most spots marked A will be in the closed-off wave... It might be me misunderstanding like I said...
I see what you are getting at. So ideally, to your point, you want to take off before the wave breaks, as it is cresting, closest to the peak/breaking part as possible. And yes, there is usually only one take off point but it is a big section of the wave depending on your paddle strength, the size of board etc. a long boarder can be much farther away from that point. What I wanted to highlight is something beginners and intermediates don't do which is position. they often just sit there and wait till the very last second to turn around and start paddling. I have seen countless times where if they had just paddles 10 ft to the left or to the right, they would have gotten a really good wave. But instead, they turn around where they are and drop in, either late, behind the section or in a part where their skill can't get them to the shoulder. it is less likely that a wave will come directly to them. so, more often than not, one should paddle to the best take off zone. I wanted to show how to identify these spots using the shading and shape of the peak. What I have found with myself over the years is that as I got better, I paddled deeper into the wave, sometimes behind the peak depending on how "A" frame it was. In fact, on my forehand, I paddle deeper into the wave since I feel my skill level can get me to the corner without any issue and it allows me more time to get speed for my first maneuver. On my backhand, however, since it sucks, LOL, I often paddle to the shoulder. Anyways, looking at it from your point, if it is crowded, then there isn't' much you can do. Often if you paddle to the shoulder and there is a higher level surfer, they can take your inside. Having said that, the inside priority thing is rather BS, that's more like 80's competition rules. The proper etiquette for surfing is to allow the person waiting the longest to take the next wave or give them the choice of the next wave. I know that is only in an ideal world, I try and live by this rule unless the people around me aren't abiding by it. if you go to 2:28, you noticed I have the inside and the mid lengther has the shoulder. If you are beginner intermediate, you ca position yourself where he is and hope that I don't go or I fall. If a higher level surfer was out, he might actually have paddled way deeper than where I was taking off. but, if a beginner or intermediate takes off where it says A, the optimal take off zone, odds are, he/she would never make the corner. it would just be a pop up exercise. But at the corner softer take off, it really increases the chance they have of actually surfing an open face wave. Hope that made sense. One very important point, this does not really apply on a point break . on a point break, there is literally one take off zone which is as close the the breaking part of the wave. Thanks for the comment, it does help to see other peoples interpretation of what I'm putting out and hopefully others read it so they can understand the nuances of surfing. Cheers brotha.
I surf 2 times a week myself, Sat and Sun only. During the height of Covid, I was able to get out once during the week usually Wednesday for a 2hr surf, i took a long lunch and worked from the beach. I'm now back to two days a week but the surf has been really bad. Having said that, even if it is bad, you have to get out there. you have to paddle at the least. It's boring but take a wavestorm or mid/long and just go catch ankle biters. The best training for paddling is paddling. You can do dry land exercises but I personally don't do anything other than surf. I have found that if I surf more than a few times a week, the opposite issue occurs. This is likely just me, but I have massive breakdown in muscle tissue and i actually get weaker. Since I don't train, something I do is make sure I load up on Friday. you have to figure out what foods are good for you. For me, and this will sound crazy but, I eat bean burritos the Friday night which for some odd reason, fuels me better than any other food. I'm able to surf longer without the burn or getting too tired. I get tired, but if I sit for a few minutes I recover quickly. I don't have a strong paddle but I can last a long time. I can surf 4 hours and I would say I deplete about 20% by the end of 4 hours. but, the issue for me is while paddling, I go from 100% to 20% strength rather quickly. so a 10 wave set really kicks my butt. But once I get out, I sit, and recovery quickly. doing this I can surf for 4 hours. I remember though in the beginning when learning to surf, this was not the case. I would get super tired super quick and game over. I think having done this for close to 40 years now, my muscles have learned. Everyone's physiology is different so not sure what will work for you. After my a long surf though, i try and hydrate but also take creatine. I don't recommend this if you haven't spoken with a doctor but it seems to help me. Also, some might recommend it before/during the surf rather than after. I take it after for recovery. When you say your back gets tired, which back? Upper, mid, lower? is it from the arching or is it your triceps/delts from paddling.
shorter boards are easier for that. But with longer boards, you have to scoot your butt as far back as it will go, almost to the tail. the board will wheelie a bit but then you can let it fall in the direction that you want to turn. You can also do the egg beater kick under water when sitting on the back of the board. Just a tiny bit of practice. I surfed a 10' board las week and it was like learning all over again. I had to literally sit on the tail to get the thing around and even then, it took a bit of time.
It all depends. Probably not the answer you wanted to hear. Different beaches are better at different tides and different swells factor in as well as sandbars. I really like trestles, uppers and Church, on a higher tide. Usually mid-tide going up. You don't have to deal with the rocks and the waves tend to be the same if not a little better in my opinion. Bolsa changes with The Sandbar and the swell direction. Sometimes it's really good on low tide and other times it's really good on high tide. Huntington is usually better low tide going up and the reason being, that beach tends to have a big gutter. In high tide it'll break outside then reform making it next to impossible to connect unless it's bigger and then break on the inside. On low tide it breaks outside only. Anyway, I use the cams for guidance.
@@32srt32 For HB, low to rising. If it is big, high tide works too. Most of HB state has that keep gutter so the waves after breaking on the outside goes soft really quick. By the pier, it seems to work on both. Towards 17th and cliffs, Low tide rising is best, that's my opinion at least. I don't' surf it much these days so not sure what the sandbar is doing.
New to your channel...I agree, great verbal communication...nice to see surf through the post...😅
This is honestly better than any of the pro surf coaches' videos I've watched on positioning, and I've watched quite a few, some of which I paid for. Maybe you could do another one for when the waves are big, powerful, and steep.
I don't get too many of those types of days but if and when I do, I will try. Recently in SoCal, it has been big. Once thing I notice about a lot of shortboarders on bigger days is that they don't realize that it takes much more force for a wave to break and they don't get to the critical part of the wave to paddle. they miss a lot of waves at bolsa. Bigger boards have an advantage but then they are also a pain to paddle out on big days. I noticed "big" days, it has to almost feel like the wave is going to break on your back.
Thanks a bunch, clear, concise and no fuss, i will keep checking your stuff….after I come back, got some waves to chase 😊
thank you - that was very helpful
Great video! Cleared up so many questions I had about reading a wave, thank you 🙏
Thank you 🙏🏽 this was excellent breakdown and I watch surf vids daily.
Love to have you back and best wishes to your daughther in college.
I've commented before but I keep coming back to this video. Sometimes your just not ready for the lesson but this is just what i need at this point in my surfing progression.
that is a very good point. at the wrong time, it could be too much info.
I think this video is clear & concise. Great coaching
This good info. Better than just surf boards reviews.
Aww no need to apologize brahdah!!! Your videos are worth the wait 🤗🙏🌊🤙🤙🤙
Thanks for the video. Really helpful and easy to understand.
Nice tutorial video!! Thumbs up!
I'm new to surfing and I've been trying to find a video that best explains how to read waves in the simplest way possible. The videos I've seen in the past 3 days, I haven't had the interest to finish watching because I didn't understand anything they were saying. XD
Until I saw this video!
very useful video, thank you. ps love those little waves(for a beginner like me, perfect)
Amazing as always. Thank you!
Love it!! ❤ Good clear instruction 🏄🏽♀️ 😊
Awesome, simple and concise for a beginner like myself.
I hope beginner surfers understand the importance of this video --- it's basically a cheat code. great job.
yeah, it's funny though. I have a buddy who, no matter what I say, just sits there and literally will wait for the wave to come to him and won't paddle or even lay down until the very last second. Sometimes I will see him no go for the wave cuz he is too deep but if he had only paddled 15 ft to the left or right, he would have been perfectly positioned. :(
@@ThomyeSurfs yeah i can be the same way....its harder to stay active as you get older lol, but i find it helps if i play on repeat a idea in my mind before paddling out like "dont sit" or "snap off the top" --- helps me focus, otherwise i get too scatterbrained out there sometimes hahaha
@@Heximelt i'm the same. I hate when i figure something out and then completely forget about it the next time I paddle out. then a year later, I discover it again and think, crap, I already knew this. haha
I realized it as soon as I saw him describe the cone. This kind of video is what I've been searching for...actual information, no cringey intro, to the point and systematic.
@@ThomyeSurfs NOW you tell me. LOL. You're giving a way the secrets! Great job though. It's the bigger, longer, uncut version of what Turtle said, if the wave breaks here, don't be there brah. :)
great video thanks
The best video I've seen for understanding waves on TH-cam, thanks man under 10 minutes as well.
that 10 minute mark is so hard. I tend to ramble. haha
Great tutorial. Love the color shading for A, I, and B. Definitely recommending this to my students. Keep up the great work. Love the new studio - having the same issues, lol.
Thanks for sharing - great info!! Looking forward to chasing the waves in the most relaxed way looking for those telltale hints.
Probably the most unique excuse not to post to date, mosquitos 🦟!!! Your videos are great dude and just getting better ! Been following since the first surfboard review
Lol. Yeah, defeated by a tiny little bug.
I gotta be more proactive! Thanks for calling me out! The shading idea is great! I’ll definitely be paddling more the next time I paddle out!
Awesome explanation! 100% agree need to be proactive and chase down the waves. Waiting, watching, and anticipating where you want to be on the wave! Good stuff! 🤙🏽
Excellently explained, thank you!
Great video. Helpful graphics. Noting the coloring is not always there is helpful to hear as I have been confused by this. Keep making these please!
Great tips! Thanks for the video! I go to Bolsa too, tower 16 area, yeew!
Thanks!
Nice!
Mind blown thank you
Cool bru. Spot on
Excellent video as always.
Such good stuff. Thanks!
Hadn’t ever thought of the different color for looking at the way the wave was breaking. I always learn something watching your videos!
I'm surprised you didn't do a rant on the oil spill. Were getting tarballs down here. Blech.
Maybe you mentioned it...the steepness of the slope determines how fast the wave peels. Close outs have no slope.
the footage was from before the spill. I haven't seen any tarballs up by Bolsa. I'd imagine it is bad down by HB/Newport.
No, I didn't mention closeouts but hoping people sort of understand that already. But maybe I shouldn't assume. :) Hope that oil mess does not touch down by San Clemente.
Excellent tutorial unique content right here love the way you break it down 🤙🏼
When should i decide right or left ? This video answers me , thanks, very helpful!
for me, deciding R or L is based on whichever I'm nearest to. If I can make either or, then I usually pick left because I like going left. Then my last decision is which looks best for the longest ride.
In the beginning, when I was starting out, I picked the side that looked easiest and had a shoulder. As I have gotten a bit better, I tend to pick the longer walled waves. The waves with too much should tend to be too short and quick.
I forgive you. Amazing content.
Love your content, mate
Thanks for taking the time to make videos! Let us know where we can donate to support the channel, it might not be much but it's better than nothing.
I love coffee... :)
This is so very helpful. A couple months in self taught and finally made a drop on a 4ft green wave. My board is only 5’8, any advice on getting enough push closer to the shoulder on a shorter board to avoid having to make a critical drop every time? When I lean back near the shoulder and wait for the nudge I get in the peak it never seems to happen. Thanks for the content!
If I had to break it down, I would say that positioning is about 80% of catching the wave, another 15% is paddling strength and intensity at the point of paddling for the wave and the last 5% is the pop up, not exactly the pop up but making sure that you are positioned properly on the board, not too far back, kicking to create lift on the tail, arching your back to keep the nose from digging in before it's time. If you watch advanced surfers and compare them to beginner/intermediates, you will notice they don't have to try as hard to catch the wave, mostly because they get into the correct position.
You have to be hyper aware of where you on each time to improve. if you miss a wave, you have to reflect on where you were and make yourself be in better position. I'm watched time and time again where someone will miss a wave, and then do the exact same thing 5 more times.
Shorter boards (less float) will have a smaller windows. The better you are at positioning, the window seems bigger, the stronger you are at paddling, the quicker you get to that window, and the pop up technique, which is the smallest portion of the equation, just makes sure you don't fall. I think the pop up is the least important of the three. Anyways, other than be hyper aware of your positioning and have good memory of it, it is hard to give you any one bit of advise. Really pay attention to the mistakes in order to correct them.
At some point, I'll put out a 2nd part to this video. My camera is broke so it has been difficult to put out new content. :( And money is thin. Hopefully soon. Cheers
Hey Tommy. When did you start surfing and do you ever make your way up to the bay area for surf? Really appreciate some of your reviews. Thanks!
I've been on off for 35 years now. I'm 52 and started around 14 I think. I did have 3 or 4 periods when I stopped surfing. I have been more consistent recently as I feel like my time is expiring and my progressive surfing slows. I get hurt a lot more now a days, knees mostly.
As for the Bay area, no. I have not surfed there in over 30 years. I think I went there when i was 10 and surfed under the bride, steamer lane, and a nude beach in Santa Cruz. I really like Steamer lane but it was small when i went. Still super fun although the kelp was crazy.
I have a buddy up by Ocean beach. He normally comes down vs me going up. I am a huge wuss for cold water. I consider OC cold and wear a 4/3 year round except for those crazy one off days where the water gets around 80.
thanks for the kind words, hope to put more relevant content out. difficult to do board reviews so need to consider different topics. :)
shredd
I'm late but this was excellent. One question.... What do you do when the swell period is quicker? How do you get rest to paddle for the next set, that's coming right behind it?
this is a tough question to answer, mostly because maybe i'm not quite understanding. I know where I surf, most often the quick period swells are West and Northwest. They get as short at 6 seconds. Having said that, at least where I am, they aren't relentless. I think the most I have seen even in the most consistent of swells is 20 in a row. There always seems to be a break where you sit around.
Only once in my life did I see more which was on a Costa Rica trip. I think I paddled for 20 minutes straight and only as a miracle, there was a break long enough for me to get out. I've never paddled so long, ever. Anyways, if it is that consistent and I find myself stuck, I paddle towards the left or right whichever way the current or rip is traveling. If you watch one of my other videos where I talk about patterns, I noticed that if I'm dead center of a peak and it is consistent and relentless, I paddle sideways to where the waves might let me though then paddle out again, also the current caused by the breaking wave pushing in toward shore will be lighter to the sides. If that peak doesn't travel over with me, I then just get to the outside and rest. I don't try and squeeze a wave in between the set. Most likely, I'll be too tired and waste it by getting in too late. If you can get past the waves, then just rest on the outside and then make your way back in a bit when you are ready.
Hope I was understanding the questions.
I don't understand. There is only one spot on the wave where it breaks (which is the spot with highest priority between surfers). So it's not like you have a choice of where to take off. Most spots marked A will be in the closed-off wave... It might be me misunderstanding like I said...
I see what you are getting at. So ideally, to your point, you want to take off before the wave breaks, as it is cresting, closest to the peak/breaking part as possible. And yes, there is usually only one take off point but it is a big section of the wave depending on your paddle strength, the size of board etc. a long boarder can be much farther away from that point. What I wanted to highlight is something beginners and intermediates don't do which is position. they often just sit there and wait till the very last second to turn around and start paddling. I have seen countless times where if they had just paddles 10 ft to the left or to the right, they would have gotten a really good wave. But instead, they turn around where they are and drop in, either late, behind the section or in a part where their skill can't get them to the shoulder.
it is less likely that a wave will come directly to them. so, more often than not, one should paddle to the best take off zone. I wanted to show how to identify these spots using the shading and shape of the peak.
What I have found with myself over the years is that as I got better, I paddled deeper into the wave, sometimes behind the peak depending on how "A" frame it was. In fact, on my forehand, I paddle deeper into the wave since I feel my skill level can get me to the corner without any issue and it allows me more time to get speed for my first maneuver. On my backhand, however, since it sucks, LOL, I often paddle to the shoulder.
Anyways, looking at it from your point, if it is crowded, then there isn't' much you can do. Often if you paddle to the shoulder and there is a higher level surfer, they can take your inside. Having said that, the inside priority thing is rather BS, that's more like 80's competition rules. The proper etiquette for surfing is to allow the person waiting the longest to take the next wave or give them the choice of the next wave. I know that is only in an ideal world, I try and live by this rule unless the people around me aren't abiding by it.
if you go to 2:28, you noticed I have the inside and the mid lengther has the shoulder. If you are beginner intermediate, you ca position yourself where he is and hope that I don't go or I fall. If a higher level surfer was out, he might actually have paddled way deeper than where I was taking off. but, if a beginner or intermediate takes off where it says A, the optimal take off zone, odds are, he/she would never make the corner. it would just be a pop up exercise. But at the corner softer take off, it really increases the chance they have of actually surfing an open face wave. Hope that made sense.
One very important point, this does not really apply on a point break . on a point break, there is literally one take off zone which is as close the the breaking part of the wave.
Thanks for the comment, it does help to see other peoples interpretation of what I'm putting out and hopefully others read it so they can understand the nuances of surfing. Cheers brotha.
@@ThomyeSurfs Ok great! Thanks a lot Thomye for the detailed reply. I understand better what you meant. Have a great ride!
Also, don't be the guys at 6:22. Lol. They're way too far inside and off the peak.🤣
my back gets tired. well how do you get better at paddling if you can only surf once every weekend.
I surf 2 times a week myself, Sat and Sun only. During the height of Covid, I was able to get out once during the week usually Wednesday for a 2hr surf, i took a long lunch and worked from the beach. I'm now back to two days a week but the surf has been really bad. Having said that, even if it is bad, you have to get out there. you have to paddle at the least. It's boring but take a wavestorm or mid/long and just go catch ankle biters. The best training for paddling is paddling.
You can do dry land exercises but I personally don't do anything other than surf. I have found that if I surf more than a few times a week, the opposite issue occurs. This is likely just me, but I have massive breakdown in muscle tissue and i actually get weaker.
Since I don't train, something I do is make sure I load up on Friday. you have to figure out what foods are good for you. For me, and this will sound crazy but, I eat bean burritos the Friday night which for some odd reason, fuels me better than any other food. I'm able to surf longer without the burn or getting too tired. I get tired, but if I sit for a few minutes I recover quickly. I don't have a strong paddle but I can last a long time. I can surf 4 hours and I would say I deplete about 20% by the end of 4 hours. but, the issue for me is while paddling, I go from 100% to 20% strength rather quickly. so a 10 wave set really kicks my butt. But once I get out, I sit, and recovery quickly. doing this I can surf for 4 hours. I remember though in the beginning when learning to surf, this was not the case. I would get super tired super quick and game over. I think having done this for close to 40 years now, my muscles have learned.
Everyone's physiology is different so not sure what will work for you. After my a long surf though, i try and hydrate but also take creatine. I don't recommend this if you haven't spoken with a doctor but it seems to help me. Also, some might recommend it before/during the surf rather than after. I take it after for recovery.
When you say your back gets tired, which back? Upper, mid, lower? is it from the arching or is it your triceps/delts from paddling.
How do they manage to turn their boards around so fast?
shorter boards are easier for that. But with longer boards, you have to scoot your butt as far back as it will go, almost to the tail. the board will wheelie a bit but then you can let it fall in the direction that you want to turn. You can also do the egg beater kick under water when sitting on the back of the board. Just a tiny bit of practice. I surfed a 10' board las week and it was like learning all over again. I had to literally sit on the tail to get the thing around and even then, it took a bit of time.
@@ThomyeSurfs Thanks. I have a 8' 8" softy. I will try your advice next time
high tide vs low tide in socal. when is the better time to surf
It all depends. Probably not the answer you wanted to hear. Different beaches are better at different tides and different swells factor in as well as sandbars. I really like trestles, uppers and Church, on a higher tide. Usually mid-tide going up. You don't have to deal with the rocks and the waves tend to be the same if not a little better in my opinion. Bolsa changes with The Sandbar and the swell direction. Sometimes it's really good on low tide and other times it's really good on high tide. Huntington is usually better low tide going up and the reason being, that beach tends to have a big gutter. In high tide it'll break outside then reform making it next to impossible to connect unless it's bigger and then break on the inside. On low tide it breaks outside only. Anyway, I use the cams for guidance.
@@ThomyeSurfs looks like you surf at bolsa, how about hb which is better high tide or low tide for progressing my beginner skills.
@@32srt32 For HB, low to rising. If it is big, high tide works too. Most of HB state has that keep gutter so the waves after breaking on the outside goes soft really quick. By the pier, it seems to work on both. Towards 17th and cliffs, Low tide rising is best, that's my opinion at least. I don't' surf it much these days so not sure what the sandbar is doing.
do you need to a different position for a longboard?
No. With a longboard you have more time because you'll be able to paddle faster to your position as well as to catch the Wave.
what board are foi using in the video?
that was the Twice Baked. good for those really soft days although I think my Modern 2 would have been a better choice.