Thanks fir the insight. I am waiting for VCDS Hex V2 to arrive. I would suggest filling up with Adblue, then resetting IDE04567-Resetting of SCR tank level detection. That's my hunch anyway on how to fully reset it.
Thank you so much for this video.... I have used it multiple times....and it works if the car is running with the red light or not running with the red light......but it does not reset to 35 miles if it is yellow 30, 20, or 10 miles left....has to go to Red for it to work. 2012 Passat TDi #PittsburghDadTexas
great!!! Curious, what was the problem with the adblue system? Have a similar issue on my 2017 A5. Scanned via VCDS and got Error code 16928 Control Circuit for Reductant Pump 1
Good evening from Northern Alberta, it is -40 Fahrenheit today and I would rather be in Texas lol. To the problem at hand, I have no knowledge on BMW and software, all I can offer is under engine management look for anything resembling SCR lock, reset etc. Sorry to hear you are having this dreaded issue.
@@rfsn Have you tried this full reset that Waynegti79 suggested, did it fully reset? I have a 2014 Passat TDI that was fixed and always have countdown issues. I have started to get instant no-starts without a countdown. My shop tests everything and it is all working and that it’s a software problem that VW has no plan on ever fixing. The car is perfectly fine and in great condition otherwise.
I have the countdown, so I suppose I need to wait for the countdown to expire before resetting the scr lock? My warning is orange, and I have actually had this problem before, but was able to clear the entire code with my VCDS, was gone for months, then all the sudden I get the warning, but it's at like 85 miles until no-start, currently at 30 sitting in my garage. Anyways, I cant remember exactly how, but the last time this happened, I cleared the code from the "red nostart" screen. The only difference I notice is that the code last time was something like "Reductant tank temperature too low" and this time I believe it says "Reductant tank temp sensor short to ground" I should also say this current time I have gotten this issue, its been coming and going, meaning the orange wrench warning said like 85 miles, then the next time I drove it the warning was gone, vehicle drove great for a couple hundred if not thousand miles, then the orange wrench warning popped up again saying like 50 miles until no-start, went away again until where I am at currently which is 30 miles until no start. I tried clearing it last night for hours using the VCDS with no success. Im thinking I probably need to drive the 30 miles, wait for the red nostart condition and then do the scr lock reset like you just demonstrated. All of this for my actual question which is what are the odds I have a loose connection on this "reductant tank temp sensor" and its making connection when the warning dissappears, and then when it shorts to ground it comes back? Where would I look for a loose connection?
Well you could very well have a sensor that's starting to flake out, I have never physically remove the adblue tank from the vehicle so I'm not sure where the sensor would be located, other than on the tank somewhere. I guess I'm not much help there. But you are correct it has to time out before resetting the scr lock and reset the kilometers, won't do it if it's still in the countdown.
UPDATE: It seems that the ONLY solution is going to be to delete my adblue altogether🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️. For whatever reason VCDS will no longer release SCR lock. Also, swung by the stealership yesterday only to be told they wouldnt be able to do anything as the adblue parts are on backorder, told me that he couldnt even give me an ETA on when. Meanwhile my car is running out in their lot, so I asked him if they at least had a scanner that would release the SCR lock, explained to him that my VCDS will no longer do it, he immediately says "yea, no we cant really do anything" fortunately I left it running huh skip or i'd be dead in the water 100 miles from my house. I should also say I ordered an adblue heater and had replaced it myself in my driveway the night before, really not that bad of a gig, pull the bumper cover, drop the adblue tank (wish it wouldnt have been clear full) anyways this didnt do shit. Brand new adblue heater, and when the countdown didnt disappear I headed to the stealership. Anyways, I told you above what they said, and how they were ZERO help, just said its a good thing I left it running. Anyways, I drove a hundred miles back home feeling really some kinda terrible about VW and have decided my only solution at this point is going to have to be coughing up the dough, purchasing a Rawtech adblue delete and deleting the son of a bitch. No emission testing in the county I live in, however, didnt want to be polluting so was gonna try to fix it right. With VW snubbing like they did they leave me with no solution but to chip and delete.
Jennifer as long as you dont live in a place that requires emissions testing removing the system will only make your vehicle run better and much more efficient, with less chances of leaving you stranded on the side of the road. Anyways, if you live in an area that requires emission testing you will NOT be able to delete the entire system. Well, you can, and the car will love you for it, you just wont be able to license it🤦♂️🤦♂️
@@liveyourlife23 I do need an emissions test.. although I have a great mechanic that can hand me a receipt saying I fixed whatever problem and they may push it through and pass it for me 🤦♀️🤯
Well it was warranty, they said it was a cracked reductant line and they replaced the heater, not sure what else they all did. I did see the bill but don't remember exactly what it was but pretty sure it was close to 3 grand.
Also, kinda ironic that it warns me that the "reductant tank temperature is low" as I ran a system test on the adblue system via VCDS and it shows the temp at 119°C😳😳😬😬
You bet, mine had a cracked line resulting in low pressure to injector, setting off the "reductant pressure to low" code. Line was replaced on warranty.
Well not to sure why, I think because the code is still active, they only give you the 50km. I could not find a way to get it longer than that, maybe someone else knows that is more familiar with VCDS. I'm pretty green with the program.
Wow!!! Thank you so much for that information!!
Thanks fir the insight. I am waiting for VCDS Hex V2 to arrive. I would suggest filling up with Adblue, then resetting IDE04567-Resetting of SCR tank level detection. That's my hunch anyway on how to fully reset it.
I had tried that, but I think because I had an active code it would only do the 50km, that's what I told myself anyways.
Thank you so much for this video....
I have used it multiple times....and it works if the car is running with the red light or not running with the red light......but it does not reset to 35 miles if it is yellow 30, 20, or 10 miles left....has to go to Red for it to work.
2012 Passat TDi
#PittsburghDadTexas
Can you tell me which vcds did you get for your vehicle I’m having trouble finding one. Thanks
great!!! Curious, what was the problem with the adblue system? Have a similar issue on my 2017 A5. Scanned via VCDS and got Error code 16928 Control Circuit for Reductant Pump 1
Mine ended up being a cracked line
@@rfsn so you didn't have to replace the whole adblue pump thing? Thats great. Hoping mine will be the same :D
@@emilcupic here's hoping for the best
Hello, thank you for posting the useful video for me. Can I do that many times?
I did it for 10 days, worked for me.
Good morning from Texas. Do you or anyone else know how to do this for a bmw x3? I have all the software ISTa -d and others. Need help!
Good evening from Northern Alberta, it is -40 Fahrenheit today and I would rather be in Texas lol.
To the problem at hand, I have no knowledge on BMW and software, all I can offer is under engine management look for anything resembling SCR lock, reset etc. Sorry to hear you are having this dreaded issue.
Can you achieve the same results using obdeleven? If so, is it basically the same procedure?
That I do not know, never used it.
Yes you can use OBD11 with basically the same steps 👍👍
How do I get VCDS-Mobile connected to my car. I downloaded a free app but not sure how to connect it
You have to buy the VCDS OBD2 interface module that then connects to computer or phone and it automatically activates the software.
Resetting scr tank level detection first then scr lock will give you more than 50 miles thats a full reset 👍
Hey thanks for the tip, will keep that in mind.
@@rfsn
Have you tried this full reset that Waynegti79 suggested, did it fully reset? I have a 2014 Passat TDI that was fixed and always have countdown issues. I have started to get instant no-starts without a countdown. My shop tests everything and it is all working and that it’s a software problem that VW has no plan on ever fixing. The car is perfectly fine and in great condition otherwise.
@@thomash7573 no I had not, I had it repaired so I have not needed to go back in there. So far so good.😬
@@thomash7573did they check & clean the injector?
I may get the same result with my car....2012 Passat
I have the countdown, so I suppose I need to wait for the countdown to expire before resetting the scr lock? My warning is orange, and I have actually had this problem before, but was able to clear the entire code with my VCDS, was gone for months, then all the sudden I get the warning, but it's at like 85 miles until no-start, currently at 30 sitting in my garage. Anyways, I cant remember exactly how, but the last time this happened, I cleared the code from the "red nostart" screen. The only difference I notice is that the code last time was something like "Reductant tank temperature too low" and this time I believe it says "Reductant tank temp sensor short to ground" I should also say this current time I have gotten this issue, its been coming and going, meaning the orange wrench warning said like 85 miles, then the next time I drove it the warning was gone, vehicle drove great for a couple hundred if not thousand miles, then the orange wrench warning popped up again saying like 50 miles until no-start, went away again until where I am at currently which is 30 miles until no start. I tried clearing it last night for hours using the VCDS with no success. Im thinking I probably need to drive the 30 miles, wait for the red nostart condition and then do the scr lock reset like you just demonstrated. All of this for my actual question which is what are the odds I have a loose connection on this "reductant tank temp sensor" and its making connection when the warning dissappears, and then when it shorts to ground it comes back? Where would I look for a loose connection?
Well you could very well have a sensor that's starting to flake out, I have never physically remove the adblue tank from the vehicle so I'm not sure where the sensor would be located, other than on the tank somewhere. I guess I'm not much help there. But you are correct it has to time out before resetting the scr lock and reset the kilometers, won't do it if it's still in the countdown.
I’m having the same exact problem. And my mechanic is saying it’s 980 just for the part and the whole system needs to come out
UPDATE: It seems that the ONLY solution is going to be to delete my adblue altogether🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️. For whatever reason VCDS will no longer release SCR lock. Also, swung by the stealership yesterday only to be told they wouldnt be able to do anything as the adblue parts are on backorder, told me that he couldnt even give me an ETA on when. Meanwhile my car is running out in their lot, so I asked him if they at least had a scanner that would release the SCR lock, explained to him that my VCDS will no longer do it, he immediately says "yea, no we cant really do anything" fortunately I left it running huh skip or i'd be dead in the water 100 miles from my house. I should also say I ordered an adblue heater and had replaced it myself in my driveway the night before, really not that bad of a gig, pull the bumper cover, drop the adblue tank (wish it wouldnt have been clear full) anyways this didnt do shit. Brand new adblue heater, and when the countdown didnt disappear I headed to the stealership. Anyways, I told you above what they said, and how they were ZERO help, just said its a good thing I left it running. Anyways, I drove a hundred miles back home feeling really some kinda terrible about VW and have decided my only solution at this point is going to have to be coughing up the dough, purchasing a Rawtech adblue delete and deleting the son of a bitch. No emission testing in the county I live in, however, didnt want to be polluting so was gonna try to fix it right. With VW snubbing like they did they leave me with no solution but to chip and delete.
Jennifer as long as you dont live in a place that requires emissions testing removing the system will only make your vehicle run better and much more efficient, with less chances of leaving you stranded on the side of the road. Anyways, if you live in an area that requires emission testing you will NOT be able to delete the entire system. Well, you can, and the car will love you for it, you just wont be able to license it🤦♂️🤦♂️
@@liveyourlife23 I do need an emissions test.. although I have a great mechanic that can hand me a receipt saying I fixed whatever problem and they may push it through and pass it for me 🤦♀️🤯
How much did it cost to get it fixed and did they tell you what needed to be fixed
Well it was warranty, they said it was a cracked reductant line and they replaced the heater, not sure what else they all did. I did see the bill but don't remember exactly what it was but pretty sure it was close to 3 grand.
@@rfsn okay thank you..
Where is this computer connected to the car?
That would be the OBD2 port, generally locate under dash on drivers side.
Also, kinda ironic that it warns me that the "reductant tank temperature is low" as I ran a system test on the adblue system via VCDS and it shows the temp at 119°C😳😳😬😬
You can bypass the tank temp sensor, i put one from amazon for 10$ and worked all winter
@@ivailovelikov5989 this would have been nice to know
Find any update on what was wrong or how to fix it?
You bet, mine had a cracked line resulting in low pressure to injector, setting off the "reductant pressure to low" code. Line was replaced on warranty.
Why only 50 km ?
And again reset to other 50 km
Well not to sure why, I think because the code is still active, they only give you the 50km. I could not find a way to get it longer than that, maybe someone else knows that is more familiar with VCDS. I'm pretty green with the program.
Following, mine is giving the same code
Where did the PC come from
Not sure I fully understand the question, but the laptop I salvaged from the landfill.
So, what was the ultimate fix?
My issue ended up being a cracked reductant line which was replaced under warranty but I would say a delete would be the ultimate fix.
this is the reason why they should have never messed with the MK4 design VW has fallen and so has germany.