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Eh eh eh eh eh

Is there a limited number of times that you can reset the SCR or not? Some people told me that you can reset it only once or twice

Hello, is there a limited number of times that you can use the SCR reset? I am currently on holiday and dunno it to stress about it or not. I have the VCDS with me

Thanks, they are pretty noisy at low rpm.

And google says..... What is an e-brake do?  Your primary brakes work through a high-tech hydraulic system and are meant to slow your car to a stop. The emergency brake, on the other hand, is designed to hold your car in place. However, if your primary brakes fail, you can use the emergency brake to slow down and stop your car.

@@rfsn It's a parking brake designed to hold the car. It is not intended to stop the vehicle but can be used in an emergency. Doesn't make it an emergency brake. There is zero service info that calls it an emergency brake. Go to any major parts vendor, it's called a parking brake cable, parking brake shoes, parking brake lever, etc. I can use my ratchet as a hammer, doesn't make it a hammer, it's still a ratchet.

@@Charlie-dv7evholy shit go outside my guy. "ermmmm technically the proper term is 'parking brake'🤓☝" so you understand exactly what he's saying when he says "e-brake", then? so what's the problem? anyways good video one thing i will say tho is sometimes just prying on it isn't enough, and you might have to hammer it back into place

@@Sam-pi6uj Still a parking brake per all the service info published by the manufacturers no matter how you feel about it. Funny how pressed y'all get over being wrong.

​@Charlie-dv7ev just be quite you're the one pressed of the most pedantic of arguments

Not sure I fully understand the question, but the laptop I salvaged from the landfill.

Good evening from Northern Alberta, it is -40 Fahrenheit today and I would rather be in Texas lol. To the problem at hand, I have no knowledge on BMW and software, all I can offer is under engine management look for anything resembling SCR lock, reset etc. Sorry to hear you are having this dreaded issue.

My issue ended up being a cracked reductant line which was replaced under warranty but I would say a delete would be the ultimate fix.

I remember even after lifting on the engine it was still tough to get in there, stupid design for sure. If that doesn't work you may have to loosen the rear motor mounts so it can lift higher. Now that we're talking about this if memory serves me correctly, there was one spot off towards the side that I could squeeze the socket through with long extension and the moved over to the nut.

Well it was warranty, they said it was a cracked reductant line and they replaced the heater, not sure what else they all did. I did see the bill but don't remember exactly what it was but pretty sure it was close to 3 grand.

@@rfsn okay thank you..

I did it for 10 days, worked for me.

Mine ended up being a cracked line

@@rfsn so you didn't have to replace the whole adblue pump thing? Thats great. Hoping mine will be the same :D

@@emilcupic here's hoping for the best

Hey mate, same here, I got a 2016 a5 with an injector adblue error. How did you manage to fix yours? I tried resetting the SCR limit and SCR tank level and I still have the error

@@mariuspoparascu1822 had to replace the whole thing, was 2500€ in Croatia by official audi dealer. Managed to get it done by half that with a mehanic I found.

Your welcome!!

If my memory serves me correctly, there is an O ring.

In the video it doesn't look like it, but I am pretty sure there is, shaped like a 4 leaf clover.

@@rfsn thanks

You probably can just getting the bolts out underneath will be difficult

That I do not know, never used it.

Yes you can use OBD11 with basically the same steps 👍👍

Don't know what you have, but if it's a John Deere from your local Jd agriculture dealer or heavy equipment dealer.

Thank for posting John Deere skid steer pump videos Found information very helpful

I had just filled the pump cases with oil and fired it up.

I had tried that, but I think because I had an active code it would only do the 50km, that's what I told myself anyways.

do you have to do a full tank of adblue? Mine is half full, tried to reset the SCR tank level and it did nothing

Yes, I have left the key on and pulled the ignition fuse until I needed to start the machine, then reinsert the fuse and jump it at the starter. When you need to shut it down, pull the fuse. Due to the inherent dangers of this, PLEASE put the machine on jack stands so if anything gets engaged the wheels are free to spin in the air. Hope this makes sense, stay safe

Also John Deere had a remote starter box. That plugs into the terminal by fuse box.

Hey thanks for the tip, will keep that in mind.

@@rfsn Have you tried this full reset that Waynegti79 suggested, did it fully reset? I have a 2014 Passat TDI that was fixed and always have countdown issues. I have started to get instant no-starts without a countdown. My shop tests everything and it is all working and that it’s a software problem that VW has no plan on ever fixing. The car is perfectly fine and in great condition otherwise.

@@thomash7573 no I had not, I had it repaired so I have not needed to go back in there. So far so good.😬

​@@thomash7573did they check & clean the injector? I may get the same result with my car....2012 Passat

You have to buy the VCDS OBD2 interface module that then connects to computer or phone and it automatically activates the software.

You can bypass the tank temp sensor, i put one from amazon for 10$ and worked all winter

@@ivailovelikov5989 this would have been nice to know

Well you could very well have a sensor that's starting to flake out, I have never physically remove the adblue tank from the vehicle so I'm not sure where the sensor would be located, other than on the tank somewhere. I guess I'm not much help there. But you are correct it has to time out before resetting the scr lock and reset the kilometers, won't do it if it's still in the countdown.

I’m having the same exact problem. And my mechanic is saying it’s 980 just for the part and the whole system needs to come out

UPDATE: It seems that the ONLY solution is going to be to delete my adblue altogether🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️. For whatever reason VCDS will no longer release SCR lock. Also, swung by the stealership yesterday only to be told they wouldnt be able to do anything as the adblue parts are on backorder, told me that he couldnt even give me an ETA on when. Meanwhile my car is running out in their lot, so I asked him if they at least had a scanner that would release the SCR lock, explained to him that my VCDS will no longer do it, he immediately says "yea, no we cant really do anything" fortunately I left it running huh skip or i'd be dead in the water 100 miles from my house. I should also say I ordered an adblue heater and had replaced it myself in my driveway the night before, really not that bad of a gig, pull the bumper cover, drop the adblue tank (wish it wouldnt have been clear full) anyways this didnt do shit. Brand new adblue heater, and when the countdown didnt disappear I headed to the stealership. Anyways, I told you above what they said, and how they were ZERO help, just said its a good thing I left it running. Anyways, I drove a hundred miles back home feeling really some kinda terrible about VW and have decided my only solution at this point is going to have to be coughing up the dough, purchasing a Rawtech adblue delete and deleting the son of a bitch. No emission testing in the county I live in, however, didnt want to be polluting so was gonna try to fix it right. With VW snubbing like they did they leave me with no solution but to chip and delete.

Jennifer as long as you dont live in a place that requires emissions testing removing the system will only make your vehicle run better and much more efficient, with less chances of leaving you stranded on the side of the road. Anyways, if you live in an area that requires emission testing you will NOT be able to delete the entire system. Well, you can, and the car will love you for it, you just wont be able to license it🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

@@liveyourlife23 I do need an emissions test.. although I have a great mechanic that can hand me a receipt saying I fixed whatever problem and they may push it through and pass it for me 🤦‍♀️🤯

That would be the OBD2 port, generally locate under dash on drivers side.

Oil running out of my bell housing, so I knew I had a failed input seal. It was only after deciding on resealing the entire unit that I discovered the failed bearing and shaft. Sure am glad I decided on that extra step.

Start by adjusting the bolts to keep the arm perfectly 90 degrees to the pump, there should be equal pressure against both rollers so as to not allow the arm to move in either direction unless it starts to compress the spring. If you don't have it correct the arm will want to engage when you are not holding it, (machine running) if it wants to take off in reverse you would then adjust bolts to push arm towards neutral. It can be a bit of a pain lifting and dropping cab untill it sits neutral with unit running. Once correctly adjusted you should be able to put mild pressure on each stick forward or reverse and not have the machine take off. Hope you can make sense of this, if not let me know I'll try explaining another way.

@@rfsn Thanks that makes sense ! I have a 260 with the pump currently in pieces waiting for new seals . I'm hoping to get rid of the creeping by adjusting the linkage correctly once it goes back together.

You bet, mine had a cracked line resulting in low pressure to injector, setting off the "reductant pressure to low" code. Line was replaced on warranty.

Why only 50 km ? And again reset to other 50 km

Well not to sure why, I think because the code is still active, they only give you the 50km. I could not find a way to get it longer than that, maybe someone else knows that is more familiar with VCDS. I'm pretty green with the program.

Following, mine is giving the same code

I had just filled the cases with oil before starting it, and the gear pump has oil right to it from the supply line.

I had ordered them from our local John Deere farm equipment dealership.

@@rfsn Thanks

The input seal, are you planning on doing the trunnion seals or are those still good, other than that if your pulling the pump you may want to take the time to examine the internals, particularly the drive shaft in the front pump that drives your gear pump as they are known to give problems. I have some Jd numbers if they are any good to you. My pump is an Eaton kv20037.

Input seal E55716 Trunion seal kits KV24684

She still going strong and no leaks. Leaking pump is the reason I pulled it and noticed the damaged shaft and bearing in the process. Thanks for watching.

Glad I could help

Still working like a champ, thanks.

Thankyou, Glad it was helpful

Yes seal kit Kv24684 does one pump, times two if you are doing both. The kit should have the repair sleeve in it to deal with the groove on the shaft. Glad you found this helpful.

If you are removing the pump replace input shaft seal E55716 you only need one of them.

Thank you sir much appreciated

@@darrelramesar3720 No problem, anytime

Glad to hear it helped, good luck on yours.

Hey I am glad this helped you, I did order KV24684 but am not sure now if it included the v ring seal KV25179, it is an additional dust seal. Sorry I can't remember off hand what was all in there, parts site says it includes O rings and seal as well as the repair sleeve and plastic dust cover, also make sure you replace input seal E55716. If I can be of further assistance just ask, I will do what i can. Good luck

Your welcome, hope it cleared up some of the unknown and I personally really like this series machine, electrical can be a bit glitchy but nothing is perfect. Cheers

Excellent, zero issues to date. Sorry still need to upload other video

sorry, that was loctite retaining compound