Just came across your video and will be tackling this in the coming months. Great tutorial on how the process is done cleanly and without much in the way of drama......quick and to the point thank you!
Try not to do that, if you ever need a future repair, it makes it more difficult. Yes I know it makes it a bit stronger, but with modern materials, you will be fine.
John, very good and informative video. I will be using your techniques on the restoration of my 1960 Corvette. I greatly appreciate all your advice and help. Looking forward to more of your videos.
Amazing work and technique. I agree with your methods of filling with actual chop strand mat and resin. Just makes sense. Stronger product all the way around. If any filler is used I feel it should be as a skim coat to fill any slight imperfections on the surface. Enjoyed the video. Very informative. Thank you
Any fast evaporate grease remover is good, wipe on with one towel and off with another, your safer using a no lint paper towel, I don't recommend using cotton towels aspecially on bare fiberglass
I’ve always thought corvettes had like a jellcoating on top of the fiberglass. I understand it’s easy to repair the fiberglass. But I guess there is no way to add a jell coat since that was done in the molding part? At factory? So you finish it like a regular car then? Just smooth the fiberglass out then add body filler or primer if needed to block smooth. Then paint. Is this correct ?
Corvettes from the factory did not have a gel coat, aftermarket fiberglass parts usually come writhing a gel coat unless it is press Moulded to match a factory panel then it dose not come with a gel coat top, after I finish a restoration job on a corvette I spray a polyester primer on top to seal the fiberglass and all repairs, then that is block sanded then a urethane primer is sprayed on that is block sanded then the paint is applied, Hope this helps, Thanks for watching
Hi, if your looking for a glue that is as close to the one used at the factory when the cars were built I use Corvette Image glue, it’s a thick dark tinted polyester based glue that is mixed with an MEKP hardener, if your not worried about originality there are epoxy glues made by 3M and SEM that work very well, Hope this helps, Thanks for watching
John , 1960 C1 - is there a seam or panel overlay across the floor under the seat area from side to side on the fLoor . My car has a straight line across the hump from the square hole in the inner rocker panel to the other side. Is that a factor section splice or did someone put a clip on it at some time in its history. Thanks for all the usable information on cracks and repair.
Hi Jeff, there factory indents in the floor but coming up, if you have an over lay going across it could be that the car was clipped at one time, it was a common practice years ago to do this if the car was hit hard , being that the cars were readily available so it was easier to do this then take the panels apart, not a big deal to fix so when looking from the bottom of the car you would not know it was there, Thanks for watching, many more videos coming soon
John great video, I am in the process of stripping a 65 with original paint and you can actually see the seams have shrunk. I know corvettes of this vintage do not have a gel coat but when stripped it has a pretty shinny fihish, does this need to be roughed up prior to primer? Also as I was learning to strip I think i may have gotten a little deep on a few spots, would you re fiberglass like this video to seal the open glass. Thanks in advance and i look forward to your next video .
Hi Gerry, Thanks for watching my video, Glad you enjoyed it, factory fiberglass will have a smooth finish if it was never touched the process that was used in manufacturing the parts being in a press mold will leave a smooth surface, you can fix the area’s you went a little deep in with some mat and resin, not sure if you want to block sand the body of your car before any priming ? , if anything I would sand the car down with at least 180 grit paper just so the primer has a good tooth to bite into. Mostly all the Vettes I restore I polyester prime the car after all body work is done, then block sand that then urethane prime, block again then paint, Hope this helps, should have some new videos out soon, Thanks John
@@EYEBALLJOHNsKUSTOMKORNER Thanks for reply you can easily get overloaded with info and opinions. Just curious, do you have a video on stopping paint and what is your preferred method. I tried razor blades on a dry paint with zero luck and have now been using chemical to soften the paint and then scrape with a razor blade. My first attempt I think I left the chemical on to long and it pulled up some of the glass
Yes I should do a video on stripping paint off a corvette,m any people have asked me about it, if your going to strip paint on fiberglass using chemicals don’t leave it on to long and after you finish stripping a panel wipe it down with lacquer thinner, it will remove any chemical left and neutralize the panel, fiberglass is like a sponge it will soak up any thing left on it, so always wipe down the bare glass to remove any grease or chemicals before repairing or priming
@EYEBALLJOHNsKUSTOMKORNER yes a friend said he was trained by Chevy for corvette repairs and said that that they were taught to mix industrial talc and fiberglass resin for seams. Won't shrink and bonds beautifully.. I used it for panel seams on my 73 rear end conversion and headlight delete After mat and glass on my 75 drag car.
Hey John, I am replacing rear quarter panels on my 68 now so your videos come in handy. Would love to see you go through the whole process of installing the quarter panel. I am removing the panels now and using a heat gun and various tools to release the bond. I couldn't help to think that if the gaps had been filled your way, it seems those panels would be much harder to remove again, if damaged in the future. What are your thought on that? Again thanks for the videos.
Hi Dan, I never heard of anyone using a heat gun to take off a quarter panel, let me know if it works, the factory bonding glue is one of the tuffest glues I’ve ever come across, not sure if heating it will soften it up, I usually cut just under the bonding strip all around even by the front and rear splash shields, remove the center section and using a gasket scrapper or putty knife wedge under remaining panel and bonding strip and using a hammer try and break off remaining panel. A lot of times it just won’t come off and you really do not want to damage the bonding strip, at that point a just take my 3 inch angle grinder and grind off the remaining panel. Your right it would be much more difficult to remove a quarter panel or any other panel that has been glassed together so the seams won’t shrink, but in doing high dollar restorations or building Restomods you want to get and keep the panels as straight as possible. Thanks for watching and your question, Good Luck with your project, John
@@EYEBALLJOHNsKUSTOMKORNER Ya that's how they do it. It takes patience but it saves the bonding strips. I did a taillight panel the other day with a combination of these 2 ways: cut it short of the strip then I had access to the seam and glue to heat it and pry it off.
@EYEBALLJOHNsKUSTOMKORNER works for alot of people... I learned it from another guy like you here on TH-cam. Just do a search and maybe you'll find it works for you too 😉
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Just came across your video and will be tackling this in the coming months. Great tutorial on how the process is done cleanly and without much in the way of drama......quick and to the point thank you!
Thanks, Glad you liked it, more videos to come
I've done this for many customers. Nice of you to make a video of the process. I like to dip down into the bonding strip.
Try not to do that, if you ever need a future repair, it makes it more difficult. Yes I know it makes it a bit stronger, but with modern materials, you will be fine.
@@michaeljkowar i don't find it difficult to cut a glassed up seam. The customers I get always want the seams glassed solid.
John, very good and informative video. I will be using your techniques on the restoration of my 1960 Corvette. I greatly appreciate all your advice and help. Looking forward to more of your videos.
Thanks Dave, Glad you liked it, More videos to come
I like the way you work. . Steady and clean
Thanks appreciate it
Great technique, thanks for sharing
Thanks Glad you liked it
Very good info. Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Glad you liked it, Thanks for watching
Amazing work and technique. I agree with your methods of filling with actual chop strand mat and resin. Just makes sense. Stronger product all the way around. If any filler is used I feel it should be as a skim coat to fill any slight imperfections on the surface. Enjoyed the video. Very informative. Thank you
Thanks I appreciate your comment, Glad you liked the video, more to come
What brand Grease remover is safe for 73 c3 smc?
Any fast evaporate grease remover is good, wipe on with one towel and off with another, your safer using a no lint paper towel, I don't recommend using cotton towels aspecially on bare fiberglass
Nice job it's a very nice car too
I’ve always thought corvettes had like a jellcoating on top of the fiberglass. I understand it’s easy to repair the fiberglass. But I guess there is no way to add a jell coat since that was done in the molding part? At factory? So you finish it like a regular car then? Just smooth the fiberglass out then add body filler or primer if needed to block smooth. Then paint. Is this correct ?
Corvettes from the factory did not have a gel coat, aftermarket fiberglass parts usually come writhing a gel coat unless it is press Moulded to match a factory panel then it dose not come with a gel coat top, after I finish a restoration job on a corvette I spray a polyester primer on top to seal the fiberglass and all repairs, then that is block sanded then a urethane primer is sprayed on that is block sanded then the paint is applied, Hope this helps, Thanks for watching
what product do you use to bond new panels with on the C1 2 and 3s ? Thanks
Hi, if your looking for a glue that is as close to the one used at the factory when the cars were built I use Corvette Image glue, it’s a thick dark tinted polyester based glue that is mixed with an MEKP hardener, if your not worried about originality there are epoxy glues made by 3M and SEM that work very well, Hope this helps, Thanks for watching
John , 1960 C1 - is there a seam or panel overlay across the floor under the seat area from side to side on the fLoor . My car has a straight line across the hump from the square hole in the inner rocker panel to the other side. Is that a factor section splice or did someone put a clip on it at some time in its history. Thanks for all the usable information on cracks and repair.
Hi Jeff, there factory indents in the floor but coming up, if you have an over lay going across it could be that the car was clipped at one time, it was a common practice years ago to do this if the car was hit hard , being that the cars were readily available so it was easier to do this then take the panels apart, not a big deal to fix so when looking from the bottom of the car you would not know it was there, Thanks for watching, many more videos coming soon
It’s off topic, but would you be able restore my c3 doors?
Surface rust (not rusted through)
Sure no problem
Can you send me a cost estimate?
Great job
Thanks, Glad you liked the video, more to come
I like to rub in Nitrostain sand then layer of poly filler sand then nitrostain sand & paint. Keep yoursqweegees in laquer thin.
John great video, I am in the process of stripping a 65 with original paint and you can actually see the seams have shrunk. I know corvettes of this vintage do not have a gel coat but when stripped it has a pretty shinny fihish, does this need to be roughed up prior to primer? Also as I was learning to strip I think i may have gotten a little deep on a few spots, would you re fiberglass like this video to seal the open glass. Thanks in advance and i look forward to your next video
.
Hi Gerry, Thanks for watching my video, Glad you enjoyed it, factory fiberglass will have a smooth finish if it was never touched the process that was used in manufacturing the parts being in a press mold will leave a smooth surface, you can fix the area’s you went a little deep in with some mat and resin, not sure if you want to block sand the body of your car before any priming ? , if anything I would sand the car down with at least 180 grit paper just so the primer has a good tooth to bite into.
Mostly all the Vettes I restore I polyester prime the car after all body work is done, then block sand that then urethane prime, block again then paint, Hope this helps, should have some new videos out soon, Thanks John
@@EYEBALLJOHNsKUSTOMKORNER
Thanks for reply you can easily get overloaded with info and opinions. Just curious, do you have a video on stopping paint and what is your preferred method. I tried razor blades on a dry paint with zero luck and have now been using chemical to soften the paint and then scrape with a razor blade. My first attempt I think I left the chemical on to long and it pulled up some of the glass
Yes I should do a video on stripping paint off a corvette,m any people have asked me about it, if your going to strip paint on fiberglass using chemicals don’t leave it on to long and after you finish stripping a panel wipe it down with lacquer thinner, it will remove any chemical left and neutralize the panel, fiberglass is like a sponge it will soak up any thing left on it, so always wipe down the bare glass to remove any grease or chemicals before repairing or priming
Great video. What about talc and resin when would that be preferred?
Thanks for watching. ok, you got me about the talc? Using as a filler?
@EYEBALLJOHNsKUSTOMKORNER yes a friend said he was trained by Chevy for corvette repairs and said that that they were taught to mix industrial talc and fiberglass resin for seams. Won't shrink and bonds beautifully.. I used it for panel seams on my 73 rear end conversion and headlight delete After mat and glass on my 75 drag car.
@EYEBALLJOHNsKUSTOMKORNER yes as a filler for low spots etc and even for panel strips. It cures and looks identical to factory seam color.
@texsean123 ok as a filler, I use a polyester filler or micro bubbles added to the resin to make a paste, most likely same thing
Hey John, I am replacing rear quarter panels on my 68 now so your videos come in handy. Would love to see you go through the whole process of installing the quarter panel. I am removing the panels now and using a heat gun and various tools to release the bond. I couldn't help to think that if the gaps had been filled your way, it seems those panels would be much harder to remove again, if damaged in the future. What are your thought on that? Again thanks for the videos.
Hi Dan, I never heard of anyone using a heat gun to take off a quarter panel, let me know if it works, the factory bonding glue is one of the tuffest glues I’ve ever come across, not sure if heating it will soften it up, I usually cut just under the bonding strip all around even by the front and rear splash shields, remove the center section and using a gasket scrapper or putty knife wedge under remaining panel and bonding strip and using a hammer try and break off remaining panel.
A lot of times it just won’t come off and you really do not want to damage the bonding strip, at that point a just take my 3 inch angle grinder and grind off the remaining panel.
Your right it would be much more difficult to remove a quarter panel or any other panel that has been glassed together so the seams won’t shrink, but in doing high dollar restorations or building Restomods you want to get and keep the panels as straight as possible.
Thanks for watching and your question, Good Luck with your project, John
@@EYEBALLJOHNsKUSTOMKORNER Ya that's how they do it. It takes patience but it saves the bonding strips. I did a taillight panel the other day with a combination of these 2 ways: cut it short of the strip then I had access to the seam and glue to heat it and pry it off.
@@EYEBALLJOHNsKUSTOMKORNER Heat works great John.
I have see persons use self tapping screws when attaching planes while gluing. This fix should be a good fix for hole repair.
Yes many people use screws to hold panels in place just remember to remove them.before fiberglassing over them
Much easier to heat the bonding glue and use a scraper/putty knife
The amount of heat you would need to soften up the glue, you could lose the bond on the panels, but if it works for you 👍👍
@EYEBALLJOHNsKUSTOMKORNER works for alot of people... I learned it from another guy like you here on TH-cam. Just do a search and maybe you'll find it works for you too 😉
A ripped fiberglass mat edge is always better than a cut edge. It simply blends in much better. A true professional knows that.
Absolutely correct