DO NOT USE THIS IT HAS NOW MADE MY HYPER CUSTOM CONTROLLER WITH HALL EFFECTS UNUSABLE PLEASE DO NOT USE THIS IM WARNING YOU DO NOT USE THIS FOR THE HYPER OR OTHER CUSTOM CONTROLLERS
Hey sorry to hear that bro, I’ve pinned this comment. Is it possible you could share a bit more about what happened to the sticks? Also was there a lot of drift on the HE sticks before you used it?
@thephototechy Sure. I calibrated my controller's left stick because it had a slight drift upwards to the left. After calibrating it, the analog started drifting hard to the right. I recalibrated it again and it started drifting barely, but it was more centered than it ever was before. Then, I closed the application and played some 2042, the controller was much better, and I could even lower the dead zones to 4. However, after playing for about 3 minutes, it started drifting hard to the right, and I was confused as it was perfect before. I tried resetting the dead zones back to the original ones, but it still kept drifting hard to the right. I closed the game and recalibrated it multiple times, but it would barely move from the right after many calibrations to the controller. I got it more centered and re-entered the game, and it stopped drifting for two minutes, but then it started drifting hard to the right again. I tried recalibrating it again, but it didn't solve the problem. 😕
Try This❗️ I actually managed to find a fix while frustratedly trying everything possible. Do the calibration again as instructed, then when it is finished and the controller vibrates, IMMEDIATELY close the Accessories App (where the calibration tool is located) and immediately after that turn off the controller (using the pop up menu holding the Xbox button for a second) This fixed the issue for me
@IlSevenlI Okay so I tried your suggestion and now the controller is shot............ it's drifting forward but forward is backward now and backward is forward now............ 😕
it depends on the controller you have if your using a normal Xbox 1 controller you won't have it bc it wasnt supported. if you have an Xbox S/X controller it will bc it's supported
This is hilarious just yesterday I was thinking to myself there should be a way to calibrate standard xbox controller ( overheard bro in law having controller problems) turns out the very next day you show me this 😂 I love coincidences
Hey so I'm a couple of days late as I kept looking for this with my elite S2 core, but the opton never appeared, untill I used one of my normal controllers.
Hi man, hope you can help me. I have a Gamesir g7 se, and I want to use the same deadzone that xbox series x controller uses. Do you know which is the standard deadzone?
FYI the elite pro series 2 controller cant be calibrated unless you use ANOTHER controller with co-pilot turned on that has the ability to be calibrated (like a series x controller). Youll need both controllers plugged into cables, with copilot enabled. Then you start the calibration using the non-elite controller. Once asked for inputs, you would then use the elite series 2 controller to do the inputs for calibration.
@@yezhik22456 just so you know; I ended up out of warranty replacing it through Microsoft for $70.. probably not worth it but wanted to share that this software fix doesn’t really do much
I have an Xbox controller with hall effect sticks from one of these 3rd party modders which was badly calibrated. Using this new update DOES calibrate it, but only on one stick for some weird reason. After I do both sticks, they'll have nicely calibrated circularities, but after about 30 seconds the one that was calibrated last will revert back to a full on 21-22% error rate. I tried doing left then right, and also right then left. It's weird.
Hey do you follow at the end step and test the sticks where it asks to test them or try again? It was happening to me until I made sure I was testing in that last step as well, not sure if it’ll fix it for you but worth a try.
@@thephototechy Great suggestion! I don't exactly know if it was due to this or one other LULbrain idea I had, but the calibration on both sticks seems to be staying now! Thank you!! LULbrain idea: I noticed that after calibrating and then testing the sticks in hardwaretester, the most recently calibrated one would go back to its previous state. If I calibrated in the app but never touched the sticks afterwards, even after 10 minutes if I went into hardwaretester the sticks would still both show proper calibration for those 30 seconds, and THEN the recently calibrated one would revert. Then I also noticed that I had the battery pack installed. So... I removed the battery pack, connected via USB, did the calibration, did the testing on the website, and before it had a chance to revert back to the "uncalibrated" state, I disconnected the cable. 😂 I may do this a few more times to see if I can dial in the error rate even lower, but as of now both sticks are showing 8-9% error rate consistently.
I know what you mean bro, but so many people have custom controllers and the ones came with their consoles, so already it’s a good step forward. Also I think we might be able to install HE sticks and calibrate them with this tool.
Well here's something you should think about .. Game sir only have 2 buttons ...so it don't matter ... I would buy an elite v2 over that 10 out of 10 times just because of that fact ... They had a chance to take of the Xbox scene and what did they do ? They made the cyclone.... Taking away things from the g7 SE .. just a quick cash grab ... I have no hope for them ...
@@REJR90 I know right now that’s the case, but having this tool might open the door in the near future. Also I have a feeling that alps might be releasing their own HE sticks. First party like Microsoft and Sony tend to do more business with Japanese firms and anything from mainland China is a bit difficult to get on board with them. I know Favorunion has worked with Sony in the past but that was probably due to Alps not being able to handle the amount. I doubt Microsoft or Sony would get Ksilver sticks, but if Alps release their HE module then I’m sure we’ll see them in both Xbox and Sony controllers.
Hey so recently my thumbs have been hurting and I think it is due to the pressure required for the thumb sticks on a standard default xbox controller, are the thumb sticks on other controllers easier to press? Like the Victrix Gambit/Razer Wolverine v2? I think I have smaller hands so anything you can reccomend? Thanks
If you're playing a shooting game on a PC with an Xbox Series X controller, does pressing the RT button all the way (the second half of the press) fire the gun, or does the gun always fire on the first half of the press?
Hey bro, if you find that calibration only works for a little bit then completely goes off, try doing the calibration and test at the end then take the controller off the cable and make sure it’s turned off. This has helped me keep the calibration on the controller.
Hey man so personally I’ve been extremely lucky when it comes to stick drift, as never had any game breaking drift on any of my controllers. I’ve had jitter issues with PowerA enhanced and some of the Eswap controllers, but never that dreaded out of control drift of over 8-9% at rest. If I have to pick controllers that’ll last a while, I’d say any controllers with Hall effect sticks like Gamesir G7se, Snakebyte gamepd pro & stealth ultra. The thing is Ksilver modules have a rating of 5 million cycles, which more than double of alps and favorunion’s 2 million cycles, but they still have a failure time limit of sorts. I have a video planned on Ksilver modules which I’m hoping to shoot very soon. In my experience alps and favorunion sticks can last a long time, specially if it’s your main controller then you sorta learn the deterioration as well whilst using, and don’t even realise until you start using a new controller, atleast it’s the case for me personally. The springs do lose tension and develop slop, some modules handles them better than others, but that dreaded potentiometer failing drift has luckily avoided me. So I’d say if you want a controller that can last a while, then either chose HE sticks, or something that has good quality alps or higher favorunion models, and definitely stay away from cheaper Xbox controllers like PowerA enhanced, PDP rematch and turtlebeach recon. The life rating of the sticks in cheap controllers is a lot less than others, also their tact switch in the sticks are only rated for 100k presses, compared to 500k on alps and 1m on favorunion higher modules and C&K in thrustmaster controllers. For me the tact switch has been an issue a couple of times as it failed due to my play style.
@@thephototechydownside of other brands is that you cant customize all buttons, if it is possible than its not possible to de-activate stick clicks.... Tried a few,like the E-swap.... But they dont support this. So no matter what i will keep having a function under the stick clicks... Very annoying
Hey man can you teach me the best way to calibrate the gamsir SE? Is it by app or Manual calibration because I'm pretty good at cod and I'm always over compensating and it feels odd. I've tried numerous calibrations, I feel the centre point on cod is always off hence the over compensating. On a standard Xbox controller I over compensate less but I hate the slow feel to the sticks
Hey definitely the manual calibratworka better for my unit, don’t know what it is but the app doesn’t change the centre point a lot for me. Check your drift numbers with 0 deadzones and see where you have more drift right or left. You can do this by moving the stick with in that small slip and see which side has a larger register. I try and keep the left right similar but more towards the bottom as I think it helps with recoil control specially when playing with low deadzones. So let’s say within the slop you have a 6% register towards right and only 2% towards left, in this scenario we need to move the centre point towards right a bit. So I’d chose a point where the sticks have a 2.5% or there about register towards the right and leave it there. Enter the manual calibration mode making sure the stick was not moved at all, that point you chose will become the new centre, so once calibrated you should have near 4% each side, meaning you can play with 3% deadzones easily instead of a 5-6%. If you get stuck reach me through IG and maybe we can do a video call or something, but definitely watch my video on the G7se stick drift fix in which I’ve shown the method as well.
@@thephototechy sweet man for the detailed response appreciated, I'll give this ago in the next 30 mins. My sticks sometimes have about 2.5-4% register, so what would you suggest for that? I don't use Instagram unfortunately man.
@@RyanDench-lx6cx check which direction you have more, like what’s the most you can leave the stick at if pushed out slightly to the end of that slop, if you find the right has 4 and the left has 2 then leave the stick at over 1% to the right and opposite if more is on the left.
Hello, i have a Gamesir G7 SE, beautiful controller but with one issue, the joysticks register 100% input even tho I’m only pushing the stick ~ 90%. I have tried calibrated the controller several times but it doesn’t seem help. Any idea what I could do?
Hey do you mean the stick doesn’t reach the physical gate fully and register 100%? That’s normal for absolute corners to behave this way, some controllers have less dead space and some more. It’s all to do with the active area the stick is registering in. Check on HCI design website gamepd section, if the values are going up in .5 to .6 increments then calibration is fine.
i use a normal xbox series x controller and i have recalibrated my right stick so many times and ever since the first time i did it my sensitivity is so messed up, i now have stick drift as well and i don’t know what to do to reset my right stick back to normal
Hey so something happened to one of my controllers where it started registering too much at too short push, I could even see the error rate of 20% on gamepad tester. The only way I was able to fix was to do the calibration and at end screen test the controller and disconnect the cable and reconnect out of calibration screen. Try I’d this method work for you
You mean when test of sticks like up or down or sides you have to disconnect controller or when you finished everything you have to very fast disconnect the controller?
@@User22-s7y hey so after you’ve done the calibration you’ll be at the test screen, make sure to test the stick by making a full circle to 100% slowly, then disconnect the controller
@@thephototechy so after the last step which is up, down and sides test, there will be last test and I have to slowly make a circle and then just disconnect the controller for a few minutes and then turn on and it will help to fix, right?
Okay so I have a Xbox Series X controller i connected to my xbox one right? Well i just got it like 6 months ago and i started hearing this weird creaking in the thumbstick, i went to the recalibration tab in the settings to see if there was an actual problem. I accidentally pressed the recalibration and said oh what the hell let me see how to use it anyways. Now my controller is going bananas like its on sensitivity 1000. Is there some way to reset the calibration to what it was when i bought? Now this controller is pretty much unplayable and ive tried everything.....
Hey so do the calibration again and at the end test the stick on the last screen, once finish disconnect the controller and reconnect. This happened to me where the active area became too small and you’ll see a full square output of 21% error, disconnecting after the calibration seems to worked for my controller.
Ive played around with a controller that had drift issues. And while i had the frontplate removed and did this it briked the pcb i guess. Cause now if i have the front installed i only reach 80%. That means i cant finish a new calibration that would be needed to shrink the edges back to normal. 😢 Anyone know how to reset a standard controllers calibration somehow?
Hey so something similar was happened to my left stick. I had to do a few calibrations and it fixed it. You made sure to test the stick at the beginning and at the end screen as well, also I disconnected the controller the moment I exited the last screen. Not sure if this will work for you.
@@thephototechy i cant complete the calibration since i can only reach about 80% out from the center. Since the calibaration was done it was saved into the pcb/hardware. So i assume replacing the stick wont solve it either. The problem is programed into pcb now..
My friend did this to an elite core v2 about 3 weeks ago and it made his stick so sensitive that he had to put it away and use another controller 😂😂😂...
I actually managed to find a fix while frustratedly trying everything possible. If your friend's Elite is still bugged, tell him to do the calibration again as instructed, then when it is finished and the controller vibrates, IMMEDIATELY close the Accessories App (where the calibration tool is located) and immediately after that turn off the controller (using the pop up menu holding the Xbox button for a second) This fixed the issue for me
@IlSevenlI bro bless your heart. My controller had an update so I updated it. I had a bit of stick drift so when I noticed the calibration option I thought it's cool that you can fix the drift. I used it and it just made my aim very sensitive to the point the multiplier kicked in with slight movements. You fixed it bro😢❤
Hey, ich habe nochmal gerade geschaut und bei mir gibt es diese Option auf meiner Xbox Series X nicht für meinen normalen SX Kontroller. 🤦🏼♂️🙆🏼♂️ Firmware Version: 5.13.3146.0 ... No Update available
Hey since the recent update, I’ve been able to recalibrate my elite 2, but my Xbox is registered inside programme, so not sure if it’s available for regular Xbox as well now.
@hypno17 @The PhotoTechy I want to further elaborate on WHY this is a bad idea for anyone that's running hall effect sticks on third party controllers. This software is designed for use with Xbox's controllers, which use potentiometers. The way pot sticks work is by adjusting voltage input based off of where the slider contact is and it's relative resistance along a curve. So basically, two pieces of metal contact one another, and they adjust voltage to the chip as they do so based off position. That voltage, in turn, becomes a useable signal that can be interpreted (through software) as "direction X at XX°." This is also WHY you get drift with them - because, naturally, over time the metal breaks down from friction. Hall effect sticks, by design, use a MUCH different method of detection, and interpretation. They use magnets and hall effect sensors to adjust voltage based off magnetic frequency and in turn (through DIFFERENT software) adjust the voltage. They get drift because over time the magnets lose power resulting in misreads. This adjustment software was designed specifically for sticks that use potentiometers, and likewise, VERY specific controllers (by that I mean the chip, not the device you hold and play with.) Due to that the voltage for "XX°" is completely different on Pots vs HE's. For SOME HE sticks it could render them useless, for others it may do nothing, and for some it may cause irreversible drift that's WAY worse. Your best bet is buying controllers that have HE sticks and come with calibration software via embedded solutions, android apps, or windows apps and using those to recalibrate the sticks. Hope this helps and feel free to pin this.
@@aspzx I completely forgot that I was notified about this. My apologies for the late response. The GameSir G7 SE has on-board calibration that can be performed by holding the start, select, and xbox button att he same time while plugging in the USB cable. After that you simply rotate the sticks 3 times, press the triggers in 3 times, and then press "A". Then unplug and replug the controller and calibration is complete. No PC, or software necessary to calibrate them.
@@aspzx no worries in the least. I have plenty of videos of me using the g7 se to play some REALLY competitive rocket league on my channel if you are curious to see how it performs in fast-paced games.
I've replaced a lot of analog sticks in Xbox controllers and I was using 2 potentiometers PCB so far. Today I gave it a shot on my test controller after replacing 2 sticks, but it seems that something is wrong with this tool. I did calibration of 2 sticks and after doing full circles a few times in the tester my left stick was pushed to the max left and the right one to the down. After disconnecting the USB cable and plugging it back sticks are back in the centre but after doing full circles a few times it does the same thing. Here is a test video that I recorded from a gamepad tester th-cam.com/video/ivx0zVsRNtg/w-d-xo.html. Has anybody encountered the same issue?
@@kauemelloguitar I sent my controller on warranty and they sent me a new one however i started a thread on reddit and one guy suggested me to do this. "I had a version of this problem which I have solved. My situation was a bit different, but hopefully the solution helps. **The Problem** * I have a modified controller where both thumbsticks have been replaced with Hall Effect joysticks. I updated the firmware, and out of curiosity ran recalibration on my left thumbstick. * This worked fine until I restarted the controller. Every time I turned on the controller, it would thing the left stick was pushed all the way to the right (or sometimes down). If I went back to Xbox accessories and reran the calibration then everything would work perfectly until the next time I turned the controller on. Annoying, but still usable. **The Solution** 1. Boot up the Xbox Accessories App 2. Go to recalibrate the "broken" thumbstick 3. When you get to the spinning "sonar" wheel, start spinning the thumbpad, but DO NOT COMPLETE THE RECALIBRATION. 4. Once you're able to control the joystick like normal, stop recalibrating. 5. Press the XBox button. and leave the XBox accessories app. Quit it if you want. 6. Enjoy, you're done! Essentially what we've done here is delete the recalibration file stored in the controller. When you enter the recalibration screen for a thumbstick, it deletes, then unloads the existing calibration file to make room for a new one. This is why it takes a few seconds before you'll be able to control the controller like normal in the recalibration screen. Hopefully this fixes your problem as well as it did mine. Though if the thumbsticks actually need recalibrating, then this might not help much."
DO NOT USE THIS IT HAS NOW MADE MY HYPER CUSTOM CONTROLLER WITH HALL EFFECTS UNUSABLE
PLEASE DO NOT USE THIS IM WARNING YOU DO NOT USE THIS FOR THE HYPER OR OTHER CUSTOM CONTROLLERS
Hey sorry to hear that bro, I’ve pinned this comment. Is it possible you could share a bit more about what happened to the sticks? Also was there a lot of drift on the HE sticks before you used it?
@thephototechy Sure.
I calibrated my controller's left stick because it had a slight drift upwards to the left. After calibrating it, the analog started drifting hard to the right. I recalibrated it again and it started drifting barely, but it was more centered than it ever was before. Then, I closed the application and played some 2042, the controller was much better, and I could even lower the dead zones to 4. However, after playing for about 3 minutes, it started drifting hard to the right, and I was confused as it was perfect before. I tried resetting the dead zones back to the original ones, but it still kept drifting hard to the right. I closed the game and recalibrated it multiple times, but it would barely move from the right after many calibrations to the controller. I got it more centered and re-entered the game, and it stopped drifting for two minutes, but then it started drifting hard to the right again. I tried recalibrating it again, but it didn't solve the problem. 😕
Try This❗️
I actually managed to find a fix while frustratedly trying everything possible. Do the calibration again as instructed, then when it is finished and the controller vibrates, IMMEDIATELY close the Accessories App (where the calibration tool is located) and immediately after that turn off the controller (using the pop up menu holding the Xbox button for a second)
This fixed the issue for me
@IlSevenlI Okay so I tried your suggestion and now the controller is shot............ it's drifting forward but forward is backward now and backward is forward now............ 😕
@@hypno18s What. Maybe i just got lucky then..
Thanks to you I get to learn something new with every video you create.
Hey bro you are most welcome, thank you for leaving the comment!
When I go to Xbox accessories, I do not have more options to find this calibration tool I’m on Xbox sx., any reason y my accessories app is different?
I don't see the option either, i tried plugging it in too and still no luck
it depends on the controller you have if your using a normal Xbox 1 controller you won't have it bc it wasnt supported. if you have an Xbox S/X controller it will bc it's supported
you have to turn display scaling to 100% or it wont show the calibrate button
This is hilarious just yesterday I was thinking to myself there should be a way to calibrate standard xbox controller ( overheard bro in law having controller problems) turns out the very next day you show me this 😂 I love coincidences
Hey so I'm a couple of days late as I kept looking for this with my elite S2 core, but the opton never appeared, untill I used one of my normal controllers.
@@thephototechy his controller is screwed lol he needs a new one only adjusting deadzones in-game help it's pretty messed up
Hi man, hope you can help me. I have a Gamesir g7 se, and I want to use the same deadzone that xbox series x controller uses.
Do you know which is the standard deadzone?
FYI the elite pro series 2 controller cant be calibrated unless you use ANOTHER controller with co-pilot turned on that has the ability to be calibrated (like a series x controller). Youll need both controllers plugged into cables, with copilot enabled. Then you start the calibration using the non-elite controller. Once asked for inputs, you would then use the elite series 2 controller to do the inputs for calibration.
man... i *love* microsoft
@@yezhik22456 just so you know; I ended up out of warranty replacing it through Microsoft for $70.. probably not worth it but wanted to share that this software fix doesn’t really do much
@@SC4RC3 Thank you, man =)
I have an Xbox controller with hall effect sticks from one of these 3rd party modders which was badly calibrated. Using this new update DOES calibrate it, but only on one stick for some weird reason. After I do both sticks, they'll have nicely calibrated circularities, but after about 30 seconds the one that was calibrated last will revert back to a full on 21-22% error rate. I tried doing left then right, and also right then left. It's weird.
Hey do you follow at the end step and test the sticks where it asks to test them or try again? It was happening to me until I made sure I was testing in that last step as well, not sure if it’ll fix it for you but worth a try.
@@thephototechy Great suggestion! I don't exactly know if it was due to this or one other LULbrain idea I had, but the calibration on both sticks seems to be staying now! Thank you!!
LULbrain idea: I noticed that after calibrating and then testing the sticks in hardwaretester, the most recently calibrated one would go back to its previous state. If I calibrated in the app but never touched the sticks afterwards, even after 10 minutes if I went into hardwaretester the sticks would still both show proper calibration for those 30 seconds, and THEN the recently calibrated one would revert. Then I also noticed that I had the battery pack installed. So... I removed the battery pack, connected via USB, did the calibration, did the testing on the website, and before it had a chance to revert back to the "uncalibrated" state, I disconnected the cable. 😂 I may do this a few more times to see if I can dial in the error rate even lower, but as of now both sticks are showing 8-9% error rate consistently.
It works, my left circularity was way out of the circle, after calibrating it matches the right stick.
Pro-tip. Don't buy shitty Microsoft controllers until they start using hall effect joysticks. Get a gamesir.
I know what you mean bro, but so many people have custom controllers and the ones came with their consoles, so already it’s a good step forward. Also I think we might be able to install HE sticks and calibrate them with this tool.
Well here's something you should think about ..
Game sir only have 2 buttons ...so it don't matter ... I would buy an elite v2 over that 10 out of 10 times just because of that fact ...
They had a chance to take of the Xbox scene and what did they do ? They made the cyclone.... Taking away things from the g7 SE .. just a quick cash grab ...
I have no hope for them ...
@@thephototechy You can't calibrate the he
@@REJR90 I know right now that’s the case, but having this tool might open the door in the near future. Also I have a feeling that alps might be releasing their own HE sticks. First party like Microsoft and Sony tend to do more business with Japanese firms and anything from mainland China is a bit difficult to get on board with them. I know Favorunion has worked with Sony in the past but that was probably due to Alps not being able to handle the amount. I doubt Microsoft or Sony would get Ksilver sticks, but if Alps release their HE module then I’m sure we’ll see them in both Xbox and Sony controllers.
Facts
Nice news, thx for the vid!
Q: Can you set the sticks to have the "butterfly" range, or sthing wider than a circle?
My left stick is drifting upwards slightly. So what should i do when calibrating? Ty for the video
hello. please tell me why after replacing the analog with the hall effect analog after configuration, after some time the pad loses the settings
I heard you have to have a different Microsoft motherboard on the elite controller for it to work with the calibration app
this ruined my controller gameplay is there a way to reset it???
Hey so recently my thumbs have been hurting and I think it is due to the pressure required for the thumb sticks on a standard default xbox controller, are the thumb sticks on other controllers easier to press? Like the Victrix Gambit/Razer Wolverine v2? I think I have smaller hands so anything you can reccomend? Thanks
was this updated for elite series 2 yet? i don't see any calibration options for either of my series 2 controllers
Every time I push my right joystick down hard it literally shuts it off
If you're playing a shooting game on a PC with an Xbox Series X controller, does pressing the RT button all the way (the second half of the press) fire the gun, or does the gun always fire on the first half of the press?
this just fucked up my whole controller
Hey bro, if you find that calibration only works for a little bit then completely goes off, try doing the calibration and test at the end then take the controller off the cable and make sure it’s turned off. This has helped me keep the calibration on the controller.
The option to recalibrate is not shown with my current controller.
Freaking hate this. My controller is barely used and is already acting up.
Hey phototechy what is your most reliable Xbox controller that you trust that won't catch stick dift for a long while?
Hey man so personally I’ve been extremely lucky when it comes to stick drift, as never had any game breaking drift on any of my controllers. I’ve had jitter issues with PowerA enhanced and some of the Eswap controllers, but never that dreaded out of control drift of over 8-9% at rest.
If I have to pick controllers that’ll last a while, I’d say any controllers with Hall effect sticks like Gamesir G7se, Snakebyte gamepd pro & stealth ultra. The thing is Ksilver modules have a rating of 5 million cycles, which more than double of alps and favorunion’s 2 million cycles, but they still have a failure time limit of sorts. I have a video planned on Ksilver modules which I’m hoping to shoot very soon.
In my experience alps and favorunion sticks can last a long time, specially if it’s your main controller then you sorta learn the deterioration as well whilst using, and don’t even realise until you start using a new controller, atleast it’s the case for me personally. The springs do lose tension and develop slop, some modules handles them better than others, but that dreaded potentiometer failing drift has luckily avoided me. So I’d say if you want a controller that can last a while, then either chose HE sticks, or something that has good quality alps or higher favorunion models, and definitely stay away from cheaper Xbox controllers like PowerA enhanced, PDP rematch and turtlebeach recon. The life rating of the sticks in cheap controllers is a lot less than others, also their tact switch in the sticks are only rated for 100k presses, compared to 500k on alps and 1m on favorunion higher modules and C&K in thrustmaster controllers. For me the tact switch has been an issue a couple of times as it failed due to my play style.
@@thephototechydownside of other brands is that you cant customize all buttons, if it is possible than its not possible to de-activate stick clicks.... Tried a few,like the E-swap.... But they dont support this. So no matter what i will keep having a function under the stick clicks... Very annoying
Sehr gutes Video und gut erklärt. Geiles Tool
Hey man can you teach me the best way to calibrate the gamsir SE? Is it by app or Manual calibration because I'm pretty good at cod and I'm always over compensating and it feels odd. I've tried numerous calibrations, I feel the centre point on cod is always off hence the over compensating. On a standard Xbox controller I over compensate less but I hate the slow feel to the sticks
Just need to be taught how to change the center point I've tried yesterday and caused loads of drift to occur lol
Hey definitely the manual calibratworka better for my unit, don’t know what it is but the app doesn’t change the centre point a lot for me.
Check your drift numbers with 0 deadzones and see where you have more drift right or left. You can do this by moving the stick with in that small slip and see which side has a larger register. I try and keep the left right similar but more towards the bottom as I think it helps with recoil control specially when playing with low deadzones.
So let’s say within the slop you have a 6% register towards right and only 2% towards left, in this scenario we need to move the centre point towards right a bit. So I’d chose a point where the sticks have a 2.5% or there about register towards the right and leave it there. Enter the manual calibration mode making sure the stick was not moved at all, that point you chose will become the new centre, so once calibrated you should have near 4% each side, meaning you can play with 3% deadzones easily instead of a 5-6%. If you get stuck reach me through IG and maybe we can do a video call or something, but definitely watch my video on the G7se stick drift fix in which I’ve shown the method as well.
@@thephototechy sweet man for the detailed response appreciated, I'll give this ago in the next 30 mins. My sticks sometimes have about 2.5-4% register, so what would you suggest for that? I don't use Instagram unfortunately man.
And all my register is towards the right none towards the left
@@RyanDench-lx6cx check which direction you have more, like what’s the most you can leave the stick at if pushed out slightly to the end of that slop, if you find the right has 4 and the left has 2 then leave the stick at over 1% to the right and opposite if more is on the left.
Hello, i have a Gamesir G7 SE, beautiful controller but with one issue, the joysticks register 100% input even tho I’m only pushing the stick ~ 90%. I have tried calibrated the controller several times but it doesn’t seem help.
Any idea what I could do?
Hey do you mean the stick doesn’t reach the physical gate fully and register 100%? That’s normal for absolute corners to behave this way, some controllers have less dead space and some more. It’s all to do with the active area the stick is registering in. Check on HCI design website gamepd section, if the values are going up in .5 to .6 increments then calibration is fine.
i use a normal xbox series x controller and i have recalibrated my right stick so many times and ever since the first time i did it my sensitivity is so messed up, i now have stick drift as well and i don’t know what to do to reset my right stick back to normal
Hey so something happened to one of my controllers where it started registering too much at too short push, I could even see the error rate of 20% on gamepad tester. The only way I was able to fix was to do the calibration and at end screen test the controller and disconnect the cable and reconnect out of calibration screen. Try I’d this method work for you
@@thephototechyHi, can you please explain how to do this?
You mean when test of sticks like up or down or sides you have to disconnect controller or when you finished everything you have to very fast disconnect the controller?
@@User22-s7y hey so after you’ve done the calibration you’ll be at the test screen, make sure to test the stick by making a full circle to 100% slowly, then disconnect the controller
@@thephototechy so after the last step which is up, down and sides test, there will be last test and I have to slowly make a circle and then just disconnect the controller for a few minutes and then turn on and it will help to fix, right?
What can I do to enable triggers in windows? Windows makes no difference between normal buttons and a trigger! is there any solution?
Okay so I have a Xbox Series X controller i connected to my xbox one right? Well i just got it like 6 months ago and i started hearing this weird creaking in the thumbstick, i went to the recalibration tab in the settings to see if there was an actual problem. I accidentally pressed the recalibration and said oh what the hell let me see how to use it anyways. Now my controller is going bananas like its on sensitivity 1000. Is there some way to reset the calibration to what it was when i bought? Now this controller is pretty much unplayable and ive tried everything.....
Hey so do the calibration again and at the end test the stick on the last screen, once finish disconnect the controller and reconnect. This happened to me where the active area became too small and you’ll see a full square output of 21% error, disconnecting after the calibration seems to worked for my controller.
Now we just need Sony to do this. Long story short, I had to add a 3rd potentiometer to a joystick so it was in the middle.
What about elite 2?? Can we calibrate it?
Hey currently I can't but I've seen online that it should be available as well for elite 2
Does this work for the elite series 1? I replaced the sticks and needed to do the centering on it but this would make things a lot easier lol
Hey no it’s only for series 2 and series s/x controllers for now. Not sure if they’ll add Xbox one and elite series 1
@@thephototechy Why i dont see this function for my Elite 2 ?
@@SQWEEZYGAMING same problem here ?!
Ive played around with a controller that had drift issues. And while i had the frontplate removed and did this it briked the pcb i guess. Cause now if i have the front installed i only reach 80%. That means i cant finish a new calibration that would be needed to shrink the edges back to normal. 😢
Anyone know how to reset a standard controllers calibration somehow?
Hey so something similar was happened to my left stick. I had to do a few calibrations and it fixed it. You made sure to test the stick at the beginning and at the end screen as well, also I disconnected the controller the moment I exited the last screen. Not sure if this will work for you.
@@thephototechy i cant complete the calibration since i can only reach about 80% out from the center. Since the calibaration was done it was saved into the pcb/hardware. So i assume replacing the stick wont solve it either. The problem is programed into pcb now..
My friend did this to an elite core v2 about 3 weeks ago and it made his stick so sensitive that he had to put it away and use another controller 😂😂😂...
Bro I can’t find the option on the elite at all, how did he get it can you plz share?
@@thephototechy
Hes in the Xbox preview program ..so they get to test these things before everyone else
I actually managed to find a fix while frustratedly trying everything possible. If your friend's Elite is still bugged, tell him to do the calibration again as instructed, then when it is finished and the controller vibrates, IMMEDIATELY close the Accessories App (where the calibration tool is located) and immediately after that turn off the controller (using the pop up menu holding the Xbox button for a second)
This fixed the issue for me
@IlSevenlI bro bless your heart. My controller had an update so I updated it. I had a bit of stick drift so when I noticed the calibration option I thought it's cool that you can fix the drift. I used it and it just made my aim very sensitive to the point the multiplier kicked in with slight movements. You fixed it bro😢❤
@@Chowy_Xo Glad i could help. Hopefully Xbox will push out a permanent fix for this issue soon!
Would the calibration work if my right stick is drifting
+1
Hey, ich habe nochmal gerade geschaut und bei mir gibt es diese Option auf meiner Xbox Series X nicht für meinen normalen SX Kontroller. 🤦🏼♂️🙆🏼♂️ Firmware Version: 5.13.3146.0 ... No Update available
can elite 2 do a recalibration?
Hey since the recent update, I’ve been able to recalibrate my elite 2, but my Xbox is registered inside programme, so not sure if it’s available for regular Xbox as well now.
@@thephototechy I don’t have a Xbox but only pc I don’t know where to recalibrate
@hypno17 @The PhotoTechy
I want to further elaborate on WHY this is a bad idea for anyone that's running hall effect sticks on third party controllers.
This software is designed for use with Xbox's controllers, which use potentiometers. The way pot sticks work is by adjusting voltage input based off of where the slider contact is and it's relative resistance along a curve. So basically, two pieces of metal contact one another, and they adjust voltage to the chip as they do so based off position. That voltage, in turn, becomes a useable signal that can be interpreted (through software) as "direction X at XX°." This is also WHY you get drift with them - because, naturally, over time the metal breaks down from friction.
Hall effect sticks, by design, use a MUCH different method of detection, and interpretation. They use magnets and hall effect sensors to adjust voltage based off magnetic frequency and in turn (through DIFFERENT software) adjust the voltage. They get drift because over time the magnets lose power resulting in misreads.
This adjustment software was designed specifically for sticks that use potentiometers, and likewise, VERY specific controllers (by that I mean the chip, not the device you hold and play with.) Due to that the voltage for "XX°" is completely different on Pots vs HE's. For SOME HE sticks it could render them useless, for others it may do nothing, and for some it may cause irreversible drift that's WAY worse.
Your best bet is buying controllers that have HE sticks and come with calibration software via embedded solutions, android apps, or windows apps and using those to recalibrate the sticks.
Hope this helps and feel free to pin this.
What HE controller exists with its own calibration software?
@@aspzx I completely forgot that I was notified about this. My apologies for the late response.
The GameSir G7 SE has on-board calibration that can be performed by holding the start, select, and xbox button att he same time while plugging in the USB cable. After that you simply rotate the sticks 3 times, press the triggers in 3 times, and then press "A". Then unplug and replug the controller and calibration is complete. No PC, or software necessary to calibrate them.
@@Dracconus thanks!
@@aspzx no worries in the least. I have plenty of videos of me using the g7 se to play some REALLY competitive rocket league on my channel if you are curious to see how it performs in fast-paced games.
Does not work with the XBOX Elite Series 2 controller !
dose the calibration write into pc or the controller's chip? i want to use my controller on console after swap joystick
On the controller chip. This logiciel do an update of the firmware directly in the controller too.
No😢 Elite 2😢
Thats a is not joke, I have no such option on my new Xbox Elite Wireless Controller Series 2
Does hall effect wil work perfectly?
I replaced my XBOX X/S controller sticks with TMR modules and the calibration went without any problems for me.
For controller xbox one s
Hey from what I’ve read this is only for series controller and elite series 2
I've replaced a lot of analog sticks in Xbox controllers and I was using 2 potentiometers PCB so far. Today I gave it a shot on my test controller after replacing 2 sticks, but it seems that something is wrong with this tool. I did calibration of 2 sticks and after doing full circles a few times in the tester my left stick was pushed to the max left and the right one to the down. After disconnecting the USB cable and plugging it back sticks are back in the centre but after doing full circles a few times it does the same thing. Here is a test video that I recorded from a gamepad tester th-cam.com/video/ivx0zVsRNtg/w-d-xo.html. Has anybody encountered the same issue?
I am experiencing the same problem. Have you found a solution?
@@kauemelloguitar I sent my controller on warranty and they sent me a new one however i started a thread on reddit and one guy suggested me to do this.
"I had a version of this problem which I have solved. My situation was a bit different, but hopefully the solution helps.
**The Problem**
* I have a modified controller where both thumbsticks have been replaced with Hall Effect joysticks. I updated the firmware, and out of curiosity ran recalibration on my left thumbstick.
* This worked fine until I restarted the controller. Every time I turned on the controller, it would thing the left stick was pushed all the way to the right (or sometimes down). If I went back to Xbox accessories and reran the calibration then everything would work perfectly until the next time I turned the controller on. Annoying, but still usable.
**The Solution**
1. Boot up the Xbox Accessories App
2. Go to recalibrate the "broken" thumbstick
3. When you get to the spinning "sonar" wheel, start spinning the thumbpad, but DO NOT COMPLETE THE RECALIBRATION.
4. Once you're able to control the joystick like normal, stop recalibrating.
5. Press the XBox button. and leave the XBox accessories app. Quit it if you want.
6. Enjoy, you're done!
Essentially what we've done here is delete the recalibration file stored in the controller. When you enter the recalibration screen for a thumbstick, it deletes, then unloads the existing calibration file to make room for a new one. This is why it takes a few seconds before you'll be able to control the controller like normal in the recalibration screen.
Hopefully this fixes your problem as well as it did mine. Though if the thumbsticks actually need recalibrating, then this might not help much."